Friday 29 Lifestyle | Travel Friday, October 13, 2017

Students and couples kick back in the arches of Feroz Shah’s madrassa at

At first glance, embodies all that is exasperating and chaotic about modern . It can take nerves of steel to face the frenetic pace at which it whirls through daily life. But grant Delhi a more discerning gaze and you’ll uncover a host of redeeming features. Topping the list is Delhi’s historical legacy, with the ruins of eight ancient cities peeking out through the city streets, from Islamic citadels and the mausoleums of Sufi saints, to the colonial flourishes of Edwin Lutyens in . Taking the Delhi Tourism HoHo Bus is a handy way to time-travel across this ancient octet, but the Metro runs close to most of the historic sights.

Delhi’s first foundations at Lal Kot includes the Quwwat ul , reportedly Early records link Delhi to the mystical ’s first ever . More city of Lal Kot, founded by king -era buildings are dotted around the in the eighth century, but Minar complex, but the area is apart from remnants of an easily missed fort going upmarket, with high fashion design wall beyond the , little remains of stores, lifestyle boutiques, buzzing fine-dining the city that thrived here for over 300 years. and hip casual cafes. In September, Mehrauli More can be seen of , estab- is the focal point for Phoolwalon ki Sair, when lished by King , who flower vendors offer floral offerings at seized, rechristened and expanded Lal Kot in shrines, praying for an efflorescent Spring. the 11th century. Punctuated by bastions, the once impenetrable walls today enclose a Seeking Siri at Hauz Khas well-maintained public park along the - Sultan Alauddin Khilji is credited with Mehrauli Road. A circular building across building the third city of Delhi, to the north- from the main gate contains a small library, east of Mehrauli, at the end of the 13th cen- crowned by a massive statue of the legendary tury. Siri was long ago consumed by the ruler. urban sprawl, but some extant ruins, reminis- cent of Turkish forts, are visible along Khel The Qutb Minar and mighty Mehrauli Gaon Marg. You’ll pass them en route to the In the 12th century, the , first of Auditorium, site of many a film festi- four consecutive Turkic dynasties to rule val premier. The neighbouring village of Delhi, arrived on the scene, founding another offers up plenty of trendy eater- new capital at Mehrauli. To celebrate, the vic- ies. For more prominent Khilji footprints, torious sultan Qutbuddin Aibak commenced you’ll need to head to the ancient reservoir with the construction of the Qutb Minar, the and Islamic seminaries of Hauz Khas village. tallest brick in the world at 73m - When you tire of exploring ruins, fall back sadly, it can no longer be climbed after a on countless cafes, boutiques, nightclubs and deadly stampede in 1981. One of Delhi’s top watering holes in this hip and happening tourist attractions, the sprawl of ruins also neighbourhood. Tomb of emblazoned with Islamic script