Yachaspa QUECHUA FOR “sabiendo” [knowing]...

The Quarterly Newsletter of Amigos de y Perú, Inc. Spring 2007 www.amigosdeboliviayperu.org

Peace Corps Perú Returns to Arequipa

In This Issue:

Kantuta Update 3 news from bolivia 4 news from Perú 5 Meet Your Editor 5 RPCV Interviews 6 President´s Column 8 by Michael Hirsh 90 guests, and to our delight, at least Renewing Membership 9 Country Director, /Perú 130 showed up, plus about 20 members PC/Perú Update 10 of the press. As master of ceremonies, From HQ in DC 10 When we announced in late 2006 that I spoke about Peace Corps, both past NPCA News 11 PC/Perú would be re-entering Arequipa and present, while a visual slide show of PC/Bolivia Reunion 11 after an absence of 32 years, and that photos sent in by former Volunteers and Crisis Corps Report 12 we hoped to kick off our re-entry with staff, as well as contemporary photos of Perú - Photography 13 a ceremony in Arequipa, I had no idea PCVs at work, were shown on a screen. Chijnaya Foundation 14 that I would receive such an avalanche We also had posters in the back of the World Wise Schools 15 of reminiscences and photos. Among the room with pictures and information Instant Bolivia 15 former staff who contacted me were Gino about PC/Perú, from the 1960s and Film Reviews 16 Baumann, David Buentello, George 1970s, and currently. PC Week 17 Baldino, Jerry Kinsman, and Aquiles Indigenous Mvmts. 18 Lanao. Among the former Volunteers We were fortunate to have two RPCVs Membership Form 19 were Gloria Levin, Mike Wolfson, from that era, Vince Beckman and Chris Barbara Mainster, Gayle Harrison Ryan, who participated along with their Hartmann, Jeanne Hanna, Marushka wives. There were also several family Hollen, Patt Behler, Jim Hamill, Richard members of other RPCVs in attendance. Muirhead, Vince Beckman, and Mary Vince spoke at the ceremony about what Hennessey Wohn. PC had meant to him. We were also fortunate to have a former director of the The ceremony marking the re-entry Arequipa regional office present - George took place on February 12 and was a Baldino. We honored George with a smashing success. It took place at the certificate, and he spoke about his days newly refurbished bi-national center (“el in Arequipa. Cultural”). We were hoping for about (continued on page 2) Board of Directors

Patt Behler Gayle Hartmann Gloria Levin 514 Belair 2224 E. 4th Street President & Jefferson City, MO 65109 Tucson, AZ 85719 Membership Coordinator 573-635-0608 520-325-6974 7327 University Ave. [email protected] [email protected] Glen Echo, MD 20812 301-320-5068 Ray Brown Diane Hibino [email protected] 510 E. 5th Kantuta Awards Coordinator [email protected] Fulton, MO 65251 5150 Waukesha Rd 573-642-5429 Bethesda, MD 20816 Franklin Salveson [email protected] 301-263-9876 Treasurer [email protected] c/o 7327 University Ave. Jeff Fletcher Glen Echo. MD 20812 Communications Coordinator Stephen Paul Jacobs [email protected] 113 10th St. NE Secretary Washington, DC 20002 8317 Freret Street Jane Wolff Taylor 202-546-0817 New Orleans, LA 70118 4 Sunset Terrace [email protected] 504-862-0597 Kensington, CA 94707 [email protected] 510-526-4655. [email protected]

Board-Appointed Positions Greg Bocquet Lorena Hinojosa Lindsey Parramore Yachaspa Editor Webmaster Yachaspa Assistant Editor [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Amigos de Bolivia y Perú, Inc. is a nonprofit corporation, affiliated with the National Peace Corps Association. As an affiliate of NPCA, Amigos is one of approximately 150 organized groups of returned Peace Corps volunteers, former staff and friends who work together and separately. Amigos promotes and supports a variety of activities for the purpose of enhancing cooperation and understanding among the peoples of Bolivia and/or Perú and the peoples of the United States.

Peace Corps/Perú in Arequipa (continued from page 1)

Several former counterparts who had projects in rural and urban areas. She The ceremony was covered extensively worked with PCVs in the 1960s and spoke about what it means for ASDE to and positively by the press, including 1970s also attended the ceremony. We have Brian there. national television. We’re thrilled to be honored one of them, Ing. José Domingo back in southern Perú, and we anticipate Choquehuanca, and he too made remarks The U.S. Ambassador in Perú, J. Curtis continued growth in that part of the about the accomplishments of that era. Struble, then gave a speech about country. I’d like to express my thanks to the importance of PC as part of U.S. Gloria Levin for spreading the word and We then spoke about the present. I government foreign assistance, and giving us excellent advice, and to all the introduced our first PCV to be assigned about the close ties between Arequipa former Volunteers and staffers who sent to Arequipa, Brian McHugh (who started and the U.S. The ceremony concluded pictures, suggested people to be invited working there in January), and the second with a pisco sour toast, gift giving, press to the ceremony, and provided us with (arriving in March), Ben Coleman. Brian interviews, and socializing. Among the encouragement. We’ll keep you informed McHugh’s counterpart, Edith Garzón, guests were several mayors, who made of our progress. is the Executive Director of ASDE, an requests for Volunteers to be assigned to NGO that works on income-generating their communities.  Yachaspa The Kantuta Fund In 1991, Amigos de Bolivia y Perú established the Kantuta Fund (named for an Andean flower). The Fund provides small grants for sustainable projects at the grassroots level that will contribute to the development of Bolivia and Perú. Originally, the Fund supported local NGOs but, since late 2005, the Fund has been used exclusively to support current PCVs’ projects in their communities. PC/Bolivia used its first grant, awarded July 2006, to support seven PCV projects; in March 2007, Amigos’ Board voted to approve a second grant of $1,000 to PC/Bolivia. PC/Peru was awarded $1,000 in December 2005 and soon after, awarded three grants, expecting to have expended the initial grant soon.

Funds are raised from (tax deductible) donations from Amigos members. Donations can be made by sending a check made out to “Amigos de Bolivia y Perú” to: Amigos de Bolivia y Perú, 7327 University Ave., Glen Echo, MD 20812. Please include a note that the check should be targeted to Kantuta and specify if the donation is for Bolivia or Peru OR indicate the percentage to apply to each. Kantuta Update: Bolivia by Diane Hibino, Kantuta Coordinator

IMPROVED COOKSTOVES

Heidi Everyitt Gerling of San Rafael of the Saipina valley writes that the ecological cookstove project was a success. Kantuta funds of $134 brought skilled experts from the NGO Cedesol to lead three workshops with a total attendance of about 300 people. They instructed the attendees on the use of alternative stoves that need less wood or none at all, in the case of solar ovens. This is especially important due to deforestation in the area and the increased time it takes for women to gather wood for cooking. Gerling reports, “111 people purchased ecological cookers and participated in two days of classes to construct them. The local government donated 10,000 Bolivianos, or $1270, in order to help lower the cost of the cookers to the beneficiaries.” EROSION CONTROL BEEKEEPING

Matthew Cox of Quirusillas reports Bonnie Cox of Quirusillas that the erosion control project with proposed two teaching apiaries peach farmers used $52 of Kantuta and received $192 to set up funds to help produce a total of 540 beekeeping training with proper sq. meters of phalaris grass in the equipment for two communities. municipal nursery and in 8 farmers’ In Rodeo, Cox notes, “one of plots in Rodeo and Rasete. This the greatest successes so far has represents a ten-fold increase of been my effort to teach bee veil the original phalaris and will serve making to families. One of the to provide 1½ km of live barriers families’ contributions was to and even more (5km) for future purchase or make their protective suit, and to facilitate this, I replantings. One grey water system for created a simple design based on a store-bought mask, bought watering plants is almost completed but work on the second materials in bulk, and sold sets of prepared materials to sew. system has been hampered by the rainy season. Matthew notes To date, 10 families have made their bee veils at a cost of 9 Bs. that being flexible, patient and creative about the use of scarce instead of 45 Bs. in the store.” The second apiary will be located funds produces more successful projects. near Quirusillas using the example set with the first group. Spring 2007  alienating the US government, whose less brazen in similar disputes with his News From Bolivia coca eradication programs bring billions neighbors, making plans to buy back Compiled by your editors from AP and in aid money to Bolivia every year. Of Petrobras’s ownership of two oil refineries other news sources. course, that may be Mr. Morales’ intent. that produce almost all of the country’s fuel. Although it will not likely pay the Coke Vs. Coca full market cost of the refineries currently owned by Brazil’s national oil company, President ’s party some compensation is expected. (Movimiento Al Socialismo), in its campaign to get the Coca leaf to replace Whatever forms such actions take, the the olive branch on Bolivia’s national seal, biggest question mark is whether or has been joined by domestic coca growers not the state can run the nationalized in calling for Coca-Cola to respect the industries as efficiently and profitably as cultural value of the leaf as an Andean they have been under private ownership. staple and drop the word “coca” from its Fuel shortages and price increases will name. surely erode the nationalist value of Bolivian ownership of its resources. The rationale for Bolivians is simply that if Coca-Cola is allowed to commercialize Climate Change Vs. the leaf, then the country that produces it Bolivia for Bolivians Bolivian Skiers should be allowed to do the same. While coca-derived products are criminalized Fulfilling his central campaign pledge Global warming appears to be threatening in the international market, the Coca- of 2005, President Evo Morales has Bolivia’s only ski resort at Chacaltaya, Cola company imports reportedly continued to make headway on securing a place that boasted the highest lift- around 200 tons of the leaf to flavor its national ownership of the country’s equipped ski area in the world, until the trademark soda. Of course, Coke refuses natural resources. The government has lift reportedly broke last year. Glacial melt to acknowledge the role of coca in its adopted various unjust and less-unjust has hindered access to the glacier, now highly-guarded formula. methods in its efforts, focusing simply on reached by hiking 300 vertical feet above the goal of nationalization. the lodge’s already extreme altitude over Although the sheer magnitude of the 17,000 feet. Bolivian glaciologists report Coca-Cola brand makes a name change On the most controversial side of the that 80% of the glacier has disappeared in rather unlikely, the Bolivian government spectrum, the government refused to the last 20 years. Despite the very small may indeed assert the country’s cultural compensate the former Swiss owners of number of visitors to the resort located claims to the plant by allowing producers the Vinto tin smelter that was nationalized in the mountains above La Paz, Bolivians to start making other products like soap, in February, despite the company’s plans will lament the loss of this national shampoo, alcohol, and toothpaste out of to bring the case before international treasure, which may be gone completely it. If that is the case, the country risks arbitration. Morales is proving to be in as little as three years. News From Home Compiled by your editors from AP and other news sources. These reductions in aid come in the face Perú, which has had a far less contentious of warnings from a bipartisan Foreign relationship with the United States, Bush Cuts Aid to Bolivia Affairs subcommittee in the House of plans to send a delegation to address and Perú Representatives, who believe the move the administration in hopes of salvaging sends the wrong message to our allies in a more favorable aid package for In his 2008 budget proposal, President South America. counternarcotics objectives. Bush has lowered his request for the Andean Counterdrug Initiative, a Bolivia, set to receive less than half of the Although the US State Department insists program representing nearly half of US aid contained in the 2006 budget, does that Andean nations will still be eligible foreign aid to the region, to 40% below not appear worried, reporting on March for aid under the president’s Millenium the amount appropriated in 2006. The 19 a pledge of aid from the European Challenge Account, the proposed budget cuts, which will apply to all Andean Union amounting to $60 million, twice cuts risk alienating countries in a region nations but Colombia, are steepest in the amount proposed by the Bush where anti-American sentiment seems to Perú and Bolivia. government. be increasing with every election.

 Yachaspa News From Perú Taking the ‘Blanca’ Out of Judging from the videos available on ‘Cordillera Blanca’ Compiled by your editors from AP and YouTube.com, the falls are well worth a other news sources. visit from interested hikers before they are Pastoruri, a principal tourist attraction developed into a luxury tour spot similar outside of Huaraz boasting a modest ski to Macchu Picchu. area and dramatic ice caves, appears to World’s Third-Highest be the latest victim of the rapid melting Waterfall (re-)Discovered of glaciers in the Cordillera Blanca. Researchers from INRENA, Perú’s official Proving that the Age of Discovery is far natural resources institute, report that the from over in the more isolated and less- Pastoruri glacier has lost 40% of its ice in visited corners of the world, the Gocta just the last 12 years. waterfall in the Chachapoyas region was recently measured by the Peruvian Apart from worries about the loss of government at the request of a local tourist revenue, the disappearance of German water engineer, establishing it as glaciers brings long-term fears of water the world’s third-highest waterfall at 771 García Sells Presidential shortages, as countless communities in meters in height. Plane the department of Ancash depend on glacial runoff for their water needs. Falling in two drops at the end of an In a move more symbolic than substantial, isolated valley, Gocta will surely bring a President Alan García announced that he As more glaciers recede and rivers dry flood of new tourism to an area previously would sell the presidential plane, proving up, Perú is likely to face the problem of known for the archaeological ruins left his commitment to fiscal austerity as rural communities moving en masse to behind by the pre-Inca Chachapoyas a means to improve the government’s the cities, putting even more strain on civilization. Peru’s Ministry of Tourism finances. While such baby steps do the country’s urban centers, while the plans to make the site more accessible to nothing for Perú’s overall balance sheet, it consequent drop in adventure/climbing tourists by building a decent road, with is worth a pat on the back the next time tourism will leave the country with far high-end hotels and restaurants sure to you see Sr. Presidente in first class flying fewer finances needed to address the follow. Lan Peru to Arequipa. problem.

Meet The Editor Submission Guidelines

Greg Bocquet served as a Yachaspa welcomes submissions on all Bolivia and Perú-related Community Health Volunteer in material. From simply sending a link to an interesting news Perú from 2003-2005. He dug many story to writing a thousand words on your recent visit to your latrines, planted many gardens, and old site, we look forward to hearing from you. still ate almost 10,000 potatoes in his two years of service. Somehow, Submissions will be edited for length and content, as well as he managed to lose weight. Perhaps relevance to Yachaspa’s goal to provide Amigos members with it was the thin air over 15,000 feet continued links to developments in Bolivia and Perú.Of course, up the Andes, where his village is it may be impossible to include every story that is submitted, located. and whatever material is not used will be kept for possible use in future issues. After leaving Perú, a brief stint in a cubicle at the Brookings Institution in DC led to his current life Please send submissions either in email text or as an attachment, at the top of the world in Iceland. In addition to earning some WITH PICTURES whenever possible, along with your contry money from his writing, he has started an NGO with an Icelandic and years of service and an email contact address for your byline, partner to channel the windfalls of Iceland’s economic boom to to: [email protected], with CC to [email protected] countries in need, so far only in Africa. IceAid, as it is known, will begin a health project in Tanzania in May, with sponsorship Thank you for your contributions, big and small. We look from Actavis, Iceland’s largest pharmaceutical company. forward to hearing from all of our members, regardless of country or years of service. Visit him on the web at www.gregmatter.com

Spring 2007  RPCV Interview: Carolyn Kinsman Ayacucho, Perú 1963-1965

Editor’s Note: many thanks go to Board Member Patt Behler, who selected interviewees and complied the questionnaires that stimulated such engaging responses. We look forward to continuing the series with other Amigos members in future issues of Yachaspa.

Most memorable saying/dicho: Assignment: “Si hay, pero no tenemos.” (In response much later came to know as the founder I joined the first Peace Corps Artisan to the question in a restaurant: “Is there_ of the Sendero Luminoso -- The Shining Development project, which was ______?”) Path. conceived in 1962 by a U.S. citizen who was married to a Perúvian woman and Favorite memory from PC: Ways PC has impacted myself and had an art school in Miraflores, Lima, others: My “Tomato Lady” in the central market Perú. His great dream was to keep where I went every day to buy food kept It entirely changed my life. It took me Perúvian folk art from the influences of her baby in the open area under the from a provincial existence to global industrialization and changing markets. wooden vegetable rack and would let me citizenship; it helped me appreciate my He convinced the Peace Corps to take it hold her. On the day after John Kennedy culture and my country at the same time, on, and we were lucky enough to be the and made me more discerning and even very first recruits -- actually, even before critical about the impact we have in the it was officially approved! world. It taught me that there are many, many ways to see things, making “right” Housing situation: a very variable concept. It caused me to Apartments and rentals were not very raise my children to see the whole while common. We went to see the Obispo focusing on the minute details. It made (Bishop), who said, “Well, I do have me even more a wanderer! a monastery that has been abandoned My Peace Corps experience taught for 150 years. You can stay there if you me that I can never use my energies help me with some restoration I’ve been for something that does not somehow trying to do.” So we lived for two years contribute to the greater good. I’ve in the San Cristobal monastery, with its worked all my professional life as a 3-ft.-thick adobe walls, stone floors, 15- designer, with a focus on education. I’ve ft. ceilings, no electricity, and one water been deeply involved in working against spigot in the interior courtyard, where racism and for social justice. And my there were very old lemon, fig, and was shot, I walked into the market early work as a mediator for over 35 years is a chirimoya trees. in the morning. When she saw me, tears direct result of Peace Corps teaching me We occupied only two of the many spilled down her cheeks and she said that there is ALWAYS another way to see rooms, which were used once a year by in her halting Spanish, “Mataron a su it. priests from out in the campo when presidente.” - They killed your president. they came in for an annual retreat. One What you remember most about being That memory still moves me to tears and Semana Santa (Easter week), we had a PCV: expresses so much of the relationships a grand Peace Corps party there, with and caring I experienced with the people The intense awareness of my own volunteers from all over Perú who slept in Perú. “otherness,” while at the same time on the floors in the many little monk’s knowing what is meant by “we are all cells. I consider it one of the finest homes Interesting story: one.” I have ever inhabited. One day as I was walking to my work at Links: the Folk Art school in Ayacucho, Scott Favorite-in country food: Palmer, a fellow Volunteer who taught My wonderful partner, Perry Wilkes, and Oh, do I have to choose?! Lomo Saltado, at the university, came jogging across the I have a blog that mostly tells about our Chupe de Camarrones, anything Chifa plaza, waving at me. “Wait. I want to current life on the Sea of Cortez in Bahía (Perúvian Chinese cuisine). introduce you to someone,” he said. The de Kino, Sonora, Mexico. Come see us! “someone” was Abimael Guzman, also a www.wilkeskinsman.typepad.com Least favorite: Menudo professor at the university, whom we all  Yachaspa RPCV Interview: J. Shane Townsend San Juancito, Bolivia 2003-2005

Reason for joining PC: A book related to PC service that I’d There’s never a single reason for doing recommend: anything worthwhile, is there? My Read Man’s Search for Meaning. Every dad had applied in the sixties, but was volunteer should read that book. I think invited instead to Vietnam; the idea of they’ll find it indispensable in the hardest international service was instilled at an times. early age. I considered it while in college, but decided to continue my education. What you remember most about being After graduate school I was looking for a PCV: something exciting to do, something That I made it, even though sometimes that would teach me a language and give I didn’t think I would. In the end, I sat me some international work experience. with a family and a community, knowing “Peace Corps is the gateway to wonderful full well how fortunate I was. things,” I was told; and it was. Link addresses that you have created, Assignment: such as blogs, websites, etc: I was officially a micro-enterprise development volunteer, but I spent a great Contributor: deal of my time improving organizational Juan, wherein the community members The Women and Infants Service Package safety & security planning and capacity walked calmly across coals to test their (WISP), guidelines that provide the for Peace Corps-Bolivia. fé. framework for the minimum and initial As a participant, it must be all the late actions needed to respond to the essential Housing situation: night fishing trips, wading through the health care needs of pregnant women, Things changed many times for many Rio Paraguá with spears and machetes, mothers, newborns and infants in an reasons, but in the end I lived in an catching dorado and caiman. emergency. adobe cabaña across the fence from my http://www.whiteribbonalliance.org/ counterpart: nearly as many children as Most memorable saying/dicho: News/default.cfm?a0=36 chickens, toucans, pigs, horses, sometimes “mas camba que la yuca” monkeys, donkeys, and a thousand birds Author: I know by song rather than name. It was Favorite in-country music: Rapid Assessments of Temporary Housing well worth the wait. I’d have to say the Chiquitano and Guarayo Camps for Hurricane-displaced Children violin and drum music we danced to in and Families (Save the Children-US) Favorite-in country food: the villages: it somehow reminded me http://www.reliefweb.int/rw/ Chicha de Maní (sweet peanut drink) of the zydeco I grew up listening to. The rwb.nsf/db900SID/AMMF- and cuñape (a baked cheesy bread about Brazilian beats were sweet too. 6S8G76?OpenDocument the size of a tennis ball). Ways my PC service has impacted me Least favorite in-country food: since I returned: Ubre de vaca (cow udder) or maybe the There are not many things I am afraid to pig cartilage try here now. The setbacks and failures in Bolivia were chock full of lessons. Favorite experiences: The most important of which being that I don’t know if it’s possible to choose. As you can do most anything, in time. The an observer, maybe my favorite was the second, most people are afraid to try, so if fire-walking ceremony on the Dia de San you step up, you’re ahead of the game.

Spring 2007  President’s Column

Gloria Levin skipped the Winter 2006-7 issue – a fact laptop, etc. This still strikes me as slightly [email protected] which I announced in an email to the illicit!! [email protected] membership, along with two interim news updates. We expect to be back on A balancing act: Amigos de Bolivia Board update: Much has happened with our quarterly schedule from now on. y Perú has a difficult balancing act to Amigos since our last (Fall 2006) issue of achieve in order to serve all our members Yachaspa. In two online Board meetings, Soon, you’ll see a new look, added features with their diverse interests. First, our in November and December 2006, the and more frequent updating of our website membership (numbering about 220) Board approved a 2007 budget, further (http://www.amigosdeboliviayperú.org) includes a mixture of RPCVs, prior refined our bylaws and elected new – made possible by our new Webmaster, staff, parents of PCVs, and friends of officers, among other agenda items. Lorena Hinojosa, another recent returnee the two countries. Second, we combine Continuing officers are me (President and from Perú. The internet-based skills of two countries in one organization (rare Membership Coordinator) and Secretary our newer members allow us to take among NPCA affiliate groups), so we Steve Jacobs; newly elected officers are greater advantage of new technologies. have to strike a balance between Bolivia Communications Coordinator Jeff and Perú interests. Third, posing the most Fletcher and Kantuta Coordinator Diane Thoughts on new RPCVs: I’ve come significant organizational challenge is Hibino. Although elected as treasurer, to know a lot of recent RPCVs, through Amigos’ generational bifurcation, owing Franklin Salveson’s move to Hong Kong mentoring -- mercilessly critiquing their to the fact that PC was out of Bolivia for has proved to be an impediment to his resumes, alerting them to job openings, two decades and out of Perú for three serving fully in that role, the internet advising them on graduate programs, decades. With respect to representation notwithstanding. Still needed is a stable of the two countries of service, Amigos’ presence as treasurer. No heavy lifting “Amigos de Bolivia y Board of Directors is well balanced (few transactions) but a critical position Perú has a difficult numerically, as is our paid membership, nevertheless. Many of our members balancing act to achieve between Bolivia and Perú. As to unpaid have the needed skills but have not (i.e., “courtesy”) members, we have been volunteered. Diane is updating the in order to serve all our reasonably successful in recruiting recent seriously outdated Kantuta webpage and members with their Perú RPCVs, especially from Perú 2 is the liaison with in-country PC staff. Jeff diverse interests.” and 3, to accept free membership for a has ably managed the transitions to new year. On the other hand, recent Bolivia leadership of our newsletter and website. putting them in touch with other RPCVs RPCVs are joining at a very slow rate, The other Board members are Patt Behler; who can advise them on matters of even though they were told about the free Ray Brown; Gayle Hartmann; and Jane readjustment and romances with host membership by PC/Bolivia staff at their Wolff Taylor. The Board term of Gerard country nationals, etc. Their experiences close of service conference. My March Maguire (former webmaster) ended in as PCVs are another world from mine, 12 membership-wide email requested a early January. We’re delightedly awaiting with their cell phones, internet-based Bolivia RPCV to serve as a liaison -- both the birth of Gerard’s first child with his research, and extensive travel post-PC to encourage COS-ing Bolivia volunteers charming wife, Nam. (no longer subject to a military draft!) I to accept their free membership and was dumbfounded when a trainee asked to seek Bolivia-related content for our Communications: This is the first me if she could return to visit her U.S.- newsletter and website. No response was issue of Yachaspa under a new editorial based boyfriend four times a year. I have received. (Of course, we’d love to have arrangement and with a new design. We since learned that many (most?) PCVs use a recent Perú returnee serving as liaison owe a major debt of gratitude to Ray vacation days to return home, free to do so also.) What can you do to help that Brown who ably produced Yachaspa for as long as they have permission and report process? four years. Greg Bocquet and Lindsey their absence. In my day, you’d go home Parramore (both recent RPCVs from only for medical treatment, the death of Kantuta Fund: The major way Amigos Perú) stepped up to volunteer to be a close family member or to end your de Bolivia y Perú serves current PCVs editors – Greg from Iceland and Lindsey service, voluntarily or not. Now routine (also giving visibility to Amigos for from the Atlanta area. Because of the late are trips home to celebrate holidays with the purpose of recruiting prospective production of the Fall 2006 issue (early their families or for a sibling’s high school members) is through our Kantuta December) and the need to organize, graduation; a friend’s wedding; shopping Fund. Our first donation to PC/Bolivia transition and redesign Yachaspa, we to replenish clothes, toiletries or buy a of $1,000 (awarded July 2006) was

 Yachaspa expended on innovative small grants to RPCVs for short visits. A newly-updated have responded – many with help from Bolivia PCVs’ communities. The Board directory will be available in April to PC in-country staff: traveling PCVs of Directors approved a new agreement those who ordered one. A recent email and RPCVs who are planning a trip to and, on March 22, we sent to PC/Bolivia stated: “the Directory can be ordered at the Andes and seeking travel suggestions staff another $1,000 from our Kantuta cost ($8 to NPCA members, $12 non- (aware that PCVs know all the good and fund. The staff had already approved some members & overseas) directly from the cheap places). Or people planning to visit PCV proposals for funding, so our funds NPCA website. Most hosts request $0- the Andes who want to contribute school will be put to good use right away. Our $5 /person/night; average stay 2-3 nights, supplies directly to a school (taking Kantuta/Bolivia cupboard is bare now, and many, many hosts are open to families photos for use in the local newspaper so your (tax deductible) donation would and kids!!!” To order the directory, which back home). The underlying motives help replenish that fund. When making a is produced only infrequently, go to range from an opportunity to expose their contribution, use the membership form www.rpcv.org; click “What”; then go to children to the lives of children living in (see the bottom of the form), at the end of the Hospitality Network. Finally, Jean poverty (so they’ll appreciate what they this newsletter (or any format that would Meadowcroft (Bolivia 66-68) suggests a have) all the way to needing content provide the requested information), to video of Bolivian music rediscovered in for a college paper (aprovechar-ing their donate and designate the country to the missions near Beni: www.cbs.com; vacation on an Inca trail trek). We are also which your money should be targeted. then search for “Searching for Baroque in solicited for money (a recent knee slapper Bolivia.” – “send money to “slicksenorita@...”!), Yapas: I like to provide in this column, for information about adopting babies or yapas (bonuses), aka possibly interesting Fulfilling PC’s third goal: Amigos to sponsor someone for a U.S. visa, etc. resources. A new resource for Bolivia responds to requests sent to our email PCVs and RPCVs is a community page account (boliviayperú@hotmail.com), Spring brings forth new plant growth created and maintained by new Amigos typically from people who find our …. and weddings. Congratulations to member, Matt Kennedy. Check out website through an online search. In Amigos member Lindsey Parramore on http://www.myspace.com/pcvsbolivia. between the constant spam emails – such her May 12 wedding. On the same day, Another resource is NPCA’s hospitality as BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES!! (or new members Dave Aabo and Meghan network, produced by Alan Burrus “sensual massages”) in “our” two countries McNeil will tie the knot at a lodge on (RPCV from Tonga) in New Mexico. -- we receive substantive inquiries. Some Mt. Hood near Portland, Oregon. Ah, The product is a hard copy directory of examples of past inquiries to which we Spring! RPCVs who are willing to house traveling

Renewing your Amigos Membership: A Plea Gloria Levin, President and Membership Coordinator

About 80% of our members let their memberships expire, despite organization. Please remember, we are volunteers and are owed my warning 2-3 weeks before and multiple reminders thereafter, the courtesy of your responding (and paying if you choose to including personal phone calls (all ignored.) Eventually, almost renew). all members renew but sometimes only after three months of constant reminders, met by “oh, I forgot; I’ll do it today” but Please consider renewing your Amigos membership directly then not doing so. This “forgetfulness” by Amigos members is with Amigos. The downside is that we don’t accept credit rampant and increasing. What makes it even more difficult, cards. But the upside is considerable -- in renewing directly in view of the fact that most renew with Amigos online via with Amigos, you can renew for more than one year at a time NPCA, is that NPCA’s new system now drops names from our (helpful if you are forgetful, travel a lot, etc.) and can take database within a week of your expiration date, a departure from advantage of Amigos’ member discounts – for couples, for full- the former method of listing lapsed members for a 3-month time students, for retirees, and for financial hardship. (And you grace period. In early March, not a single one of the long-term can contribute to Kantuta at the same time.) In contrast, NPCA members of Amigos renewed by their February 28 expiration, now processes renewals one year at a time and no longer gives so no longer appear on our database from NPCA. And not a a discount for couples (we do, at $22.50 for a couple, whereas single one has renewed in the month since, despite my emails NPCA charges a flat rate of $15 for each Amigos membership). and calls and promises. This imposes an unnecessary burden on For more information, read recent issues of this newsletter or me, as membership coordinator – time I could use to benefit the contact me at [email protected] or [email protected] Spring 2007  Peace Corps/Perú: Country Update

Saludos de Lima! As I write this (February Development (33), Community Health 50s. Fifty-nine percent of the volunteers 21), it’s close to 90 degrees out. As you (33), Youth Development (36), and are females, and 41% are males. Twenty- can imagine, the highways to the beaches Environmental Awareness (31). They are three (17%) are identified as Afro- are jammed on weekends. assigned to communities in the following American, Asian, or Hispanic. There are departments: Tumbes (5), Piura (31), four married couples, plus one volunteer Our most dramatic news is our re-entry is married to a Perúvian. The volunteers into Arequipa (see separate article), but hail from 33 states and the District of there are plenty of other activities going Columbia. The home states of six or more on. We have produced a number of “best Volunteers are California (17), Texas (14), practices” manuals and videos on our Illinois (10), Massachusetts (7), Maryland projects. We have received approval to add (7), New York (7), Virginia (7), Michigan an eleventh week of pre-service training, (6), and Minnesota (6). which will enable us to do a better job in preparing our trainees for their technical We continue to have a constant flow of activities, especially their secondary RPCV visitors. Most recently, Jim and activities (e.g., teaching English, training Zarela Hamill stopped by the office, on community members in computer skills, their way to Arequipa to celebrate their promoting vegetable gardens, giving 40th wedding anniversary. We look AIDS prevention presentations). We’re Lambayeque (21), La Libertad (15), forward to your visit. also planning a celebration soon to mark Cajamarca (33), Ancash (16), Lima (6), the fifth anniversary of PC’s return to Ica (5), and Arequipa (1). For more information on our program, Perú. e-mail me at any time: All of the volunteers in Perú are university [email protected]. I thought it would be useful to give you graduates, and about 15% have graduate a profile of our volunteers. As this is degrees. It is a young group, with 99 Best regards, being written, we have 133 volunteers between the ages of 21 and 25. Twenty- on board. They are working in the four are between 26 and 29, seven are in Michael Hirsh following program areas: Small Business their 30s, one in his 40s, and two in their Country Director

From the South America Desk

Shawn Wesner [email protected] Bolivia has certainly seen its fair share of Corps Perú program continues to thrive activity this year with protests in January and to make significant headway with Greetings from the South America in Cochabamba and the recent flooding communities and host country agencies Desk at Peace Corps Headquarters in in the areas of Beni and Santa Cruz. alike. The program recently expanded Washington, DC! We have had a busy Thankfully, these occurrences haven’t into the Arequipa region, and has been year thus far, already sending out a group affected our Peace Corps program too met with great success thus far. of 29 Natural Resource and Agriculture significantly and the staff and volunteers Extension Trainees to Bolivia in January. alike continue to do an excellent job. The big news for the month of August Our next group of 30 Basic Sanitation and is that (PC) Director Ron Tschetter is Integrated Education Trainees arrive in Our first group of 36 Trainees in the areas considering a trip to Bolivia, Paraguay Bolivia in early May and the final Trainee of Youth, Small Business Development and Ecuador to coincide with Peace input to Bolivia for 2007 arrives in late and IT arrive in Perú in early June. Our Corps Paraguay’s 40th anniversary August. This group will be comprised second group of 36 Trainees in the areas celebration. We will be sure to keep of 18 Agriculture and Micro-Enterprise of Health, Environment and IT arrive Amigos updated! Development workers. in Perú in mid-September. The Peace 10 Yachaspa UPDATE: Plans NPCA Endorses Natio- for PC/Bolivia nal Service Academy Reunion NPCA has joined a growing number of Ed Stoll and Lee Arbuckle organizations endorsing the creation of a National Service Academy. Plans are progressing well for the reunion of Bolivia volunteers and Under legislation soon to be introduced Staff from the 1960’s through 1971 in Congress, the Academy would serve and their friends and families. NPCA Urges Increased approximately 5,000 total students Approximately 60 Returned Peace (1,300 in each entering class) from all Corps Volunteers, staff and spouses Peace Corps Funding, states. Similar to military academies, are signed up to gather at the Estes Farm Bill Reform enrolled students would receive free Park Center of the YMCA of the undergraduate education in return for Rockies near Estes Park, Colorado for five years of civilian service to the country. NPCA is urging former volunteers to the 3 day event starting the evening Curriculum requirements would include write members of Congress in support of Friday, August 17 and ending at foreign language study and at least one of the administration’s request of $334 noon on Monday, August 20. semester abroad. million in funding for the Peace Corps in FY 2008, a $15 million increase over this Our block of 41 rooms in one lodge Details: 202-712-9121 or http://www. year’s level. at the Center is rapidly filling. The uspublicserviceacademy.org largest groups represented so far are While the administration has proposed Credit Cooperative groups (1967- increased funding for Peace Corps in each Increased Scholar- 70) and the Mines Community of the past six years, Congress usually Development group (1967-69). has reduced the President’s request. In ships for NPCA Other groups are represented in FY 2006, for example, the President Members smaller numbers. Cost for the entire proposed a nine percent increase and reunion in our block of rooms is Congress cut that increase to less than $453 plus tax for a single which one percent. Funding this year is frozen The School for International Training includes all meals. Cost for a couple at $319 million. (SIT) has announced the availability of is $274 per person plus tax. Room increased NPCA academic scholarships sharing by singles can bring the cost The number of volunteers in service today of $10,000 for those pursuing a master’s per person down further. (7,750) remains near a 30-year high, but degree in international programs at this is almost 50 percent below 1966 the school’s campus in Brattleboro, Vt. There is the possibility of arranging levels, when 15,000 volunteers were in NPCA members can request information for more accommodations, so if you the field. Peace Corps volunteers now on this exclusive scholarship opportunity are interested in what promises to be serve in 75 nations and 20 additional by calling 800-336-1616 or 802-257- a once in a life time opportunity to countries are requesting volunteers. 7751, or by visiting http://www.sit.edu. rekindle memories of Bolivia together with other Peace Corps people in In cooperation with Oxfam America Several awards of $10,000, available to a beautiful setting in Colorado and Bread for the World, NPCA also is NPCA member who have at least one year contact us by e-mail: Ed Stoll lobbying for agricultural subsidy and fair of significant intercultural experience, (Bolivia 31, 1967-70) at e_stoll@ trade reforms in this year’s reauthorization will be made each year. sbcglobal.net or Lee Arbuckle (Peace of the nation’s farm bill. Corps staff based in Cochabamba, The scholarship was established in 2000 1967-71) at [email protected]. For background on how to participate in to recognize the long-standing ties A Google Group website has been NPCA advocacy campaigns, visit www. between SIT and the Peace Corps. The set up. To register to use it go to: rpcv.org or e-mail [email protected]. SIT President is former UNICEF director Groups.google.com/group/Bolivia- and NPCA advisory council member Chichapcvs. If you have difficulties (PCV Guatemala 63-65; with registration e-mail one of us. Peace Corps Director 93-95.) Spring 2007 11 A Return to the Heart: Crisis Corps

By Kim Glick The Crisis Corps has given me the society in that even those from the most RPCV Bolivia ’99-‘02 opportunity to once again feel that disadvantaged backgrounds could reach Crisis Corps, Guatemala 2007 connection to those fellow souls who their full potential, the civil liberties, without access to our compassion, equal rights and the ideals of liberty and I was a PCV in Bolivia from 1999 to knowledge and technical expertise could justice for all for which we fought and 2002. During that time, my fingernails continue on the same road of endless so cherish. To espouse and to live those were perpetually dirty from working the poverty. It has reminded me why I am values in our work both domestically and land. I smelled (just a bit) from the lack indeed here on this planet and what it is I overseas is the greatest gift we have to give of a daily shower (I was lucky I had one can offer to make the world a better place to the world along with our technical once a week). I lived without the constant for all of us. know-how to achieve those ends. We blare of the television armed only with a are not perfect and we have made a lot of battery-powered radio cassette player for mistakes in our short history as a nation, news and music. I went to sleep around 8 all of which I am reminded of on a daily pm and woke up at 5 am to the sound of basis while working overseas. However, the roosters because we had no electricity we do have the chance to either correct for the first year of my service. The people, them or make up for them with what we both men and women, who learned from can give now. my example and work ethic went on to create new lives for themselves. They were Many organizations and companies will empowered by their new knowledge and give a sabbatical for RPCV’s to serve the hope that someday their children once again. The opportunities to give of would have more opportunities than they oneself are endless and are only limited did. by one’s own sense of time and resources. If you cannot commit to another two I have found that the Crisis Corps has or more years of Peace Corps service, once again put me in touch with that side the Crisis Corps offers shorter-term of myself that remembers why I wanted service opportunities as well. Usually, to be a Peace Corps Volunteer and work If I sound idealistic, it is because I am. the assignments are for expert technical in international development in the first The way I see things, it is in all ofour assistance and emergency response for place. The daily one-on-one contact and interests to remember the core values and periods between three months to one year. the concrete results I see as I serve once sense of responsibility of our ancestors All expenses are covered and the volunteer again in Guatemala refresh my spirit who made America the country it is (and opportunities are carefully selected. Prior and renew my soul. At a time when the I am not talking about the perceptions knowledge of the regional and/or local United States is at a critical juncture in of oppressive civil and economic tyranny language is a great help as the assignments world history, the Crisis Corps offers we see now throughout the world). I am are of shorter duration and much is the opportunity to demonstrate that talking about the Bill of Rights, the open- expected in terms of knowledge transfer Americans do care about the rest of the door policies (remember “bring us your and experience. These assignments are world. poor, your sick, your oppressed”?), the love professional consultancies which are of individual freedom and its preservation helpful for breaking into new regions and at all costs, the “classlessness” of American technical areas. For More Information About Crisis Corps

Visit the Crisis Corps section of the Peace Corps’ official website at www.peacecorps.gov. Positions are currently available in the Eastern Caribbean, El Salvador, Fiji, Guatemala, Guyana, Namibia, Panama, Uganda, and Zambia.

If you would like to be considered for future opportunities, please submit your application immediately. If you’ve applied previously and wish to update your résumé, please send all materials to [email protected]. Crisis Corps positions generally require a commitment of three to six months and offer a living allowance, health care coverage and relocation allowance similar to that of a PCV.

12 Yachaspa Abraham Guillén: Los Huacanes de Mito by Stephen Paul Jacobs [email protected]

Recently, I was browsing through a collection of photos by the of accented verticals produced by nose and shadow that noted Perúvian photographer, Abraham Guillén (1901-1985), contrast with the soft rhythm of curved hat brims. in Tulane University’s Latin American Library. I was struck by one image, in particular, of a group of folk dancers from the Some commentators refer to the bird-like quality of the department of Junín, taken in 1960. The image, made directly masks. In my opinion, the hats, which resemble hats worn from the negative, is highly contrasted, possibly a consequence by Spaniards and Criollos during the colonial period, along of its age. It presents two rows with the manufactured (as of dancers, in costume, clearly opposed to hand-woven) lined up for a group portrait. and therefore imported Guillén has caught them in cloth, suggest that the a relaxed state, more playful dancers are making than they would be in a more reference to Europeans formal take. They express – the colonial overlords. more fully their individual The exaggerated nature personalities that, no doubt, of the masks, the playful play an important part in the attitudes of the dancers dance itself. and the freedom of movement facilitated by Abraham Guillén has often their costumes suggest been called Perú’s “official that the powerful and photographer.” In 1932, he high-status group will was appointed head of the be satirized in the Department of Photography performance. in the National Museum of Anthropology and Archeology, where he worked for 40 years I was a volunteer in Bolivia in the ‘60s, shortly before this until his retirement. His images have been used in the full range picture was taken. In my time, the massive folk celebrations of Perúvian publications from magazines to encyclopedias to such as La Paz’s Fiesta de Gran Poder and Quillacollo’s postage stamps. Guillén has worked closely with anthropologists Fiesta de Urqupiña were celebrated on a much smaller scale. and archeologists, documenting everything from Perú’s pre- Unfortunately, in those days I was much less interested in the Columbian and colonial architecture to folk dances, crafts and cultural manifestations that now fascinate me. daily life. Perhaps there are some Amigos members who served in Perú The Huacones is a dance from the earliest colonial period, if who attended the Fiesta de Mito and viewed a performance not from earlier times; it was mentioned in Guaman Poma de of Los Huacones who can share their insights. Have the Ayala’s commentary written in 1615. All of the dancers wear costumes changed significantly in the last 45 years? Is the similar masks, hats, tunics and capes. The masks are the most dance as subversive as I believe? It would be fascinating to carefully crafted elements of the costume, seemingly made out of compare the present ritual performance with the pre-Contact either carved wood or clay. While they follow a standard model, huaconada referred to by Guaman Poma de Ayala, to trace the there is a great deal of individual expression in the way the eyes, evolution of costume and performance from colonial times mouth, and chin are represented. In contrast, noses are uniformly to understand how it reflects the changing self-perception of straight, long and narrow and project strongly from the face. As this charismatic group. a composition, the photograph builds upon the marked rhythm

Spring 2007 13 Field Report: The Chijnaya Foundation

By Rolly Thompson, Perú 64-66

“Short-term Volunteer Opportunities of only one person, used synthetic fabric alpaca. The knitting I saw was good, on the Altiplano” read the title of a short and yarn dyed with synthetic dyes. The but the weaving, done using stationary article as I skimmed the table of contents lower cost of synthetic materials makes rather than backstrap looms, was truly in Yachaspa, Spring, 2006. Ralph Bolton them more accessible than natural fibers. exceptional. had my attention immediately. He was In addition, the sheep in Chijnaya have seeking RPCVs to offer their skills and changed. Most sheep are crosses of I then went to Coarita, Paratía for four experience to projects of the Chijnaya the Churro type sheep introduced by days, attending a community meeting Foundation in the Perúvian department the Spanish 500 years ago and North and visiting several herds of alpacas, of Puno. I had been ready to go back to American meat breeds. The wool from shearing facilities, and the site of a possible Perú since I returned from my last trip in these sheep is much different from the vicuña and avestruz (Suri) reserve. This 1990. My husband, Wayne, and I were wool used to weave the wool bayeta that community is over 15,000 feet above sea Peace Corps Volunteers in the Urubamba was formerly used. I would love to see level, and the colder air was visible in the Valley from 1964-66 and are now retired them return to using natural fibers, but ice on the pond and creek one morning. from careers in public education in understand completely the need to earn The people of Coarita are also pastoralists; Eugene, Oregon. For 30 years we have money for one’s family. there is no cultivated land. They raise also had an alpaca and natural colored alpacas, llamas, and sheep. There were sheep farm where we specialize in natural At 5:30 in the morning of September 25, almost no cattle or horses. fibers, which we sell to fiber enthusiasts. I’m on my way to Pucarayllo, a bumpy hour or so ride from Chijnaya. Climbing Like Pucarayllo, Coarita is a traditional So I answered Ralph’s invitation and spent to over 14,000 feet, there was about a 10- Perúvian settlement, with property a couple of weeks working in Chijnaya, 20 degree temperature difference from boundaries delineated by rock walls that Pucarayllo, and Coarita, Paratía in Chijnaya. The people of Pucarayllo are climb up the hillsides. I stayed in the home September and October of 2006. It was pastoralists; there is no cultivated land. of a family that raised alpacas, llamas, and a memorable and rewarding experience. They raise alpacas, llamas, sheep, some sheep. This farm was located in the valley My primary objective was to gather cattle, and have horses and burros. In the of the community and had access to lots information about the handcrafts and two days I spent there I attended a meeting of water from ponds and streams. Other alpaca industries in Chijnaya, Pucarayllo, of interested alpaca herdsmen and visited families live on the hillsides, with much and Coarita, Paratía and to discuss what the communal herd of alpacas. less access to water. projects they would like to see in their communities. Pucarayllo is a traditional Perúvian Alpacas are the main livestock there, settlement: homes are spread out over mostly white Huacaya; almost no Suris or My arrival in Chijnaya coincided with the entire area of the community. The colored alpacas (Huacaya alpacas are the Chijnaya’s annual birthday celebration center of the community is the school teddy bear looking alpacas. Suri alpacas on September 23. I remember how compound. Each family’s home is on are the alpacas with the dreadlocks.) much preparation went into community the land they own, unlike in Chijnaya There were a few sheep in my hosts’ herd, celebrations. They work as hard at where the homes are concentrated in one and somewhat more llamas than sheep, celebrating as they do at their work. My area and farming land is outside of the though the emphasis was on alpacas. The first four days were spent walking around town itself. I stayed in a home about a animals knew when it was time to move the community observing sheep-raising mile from the school. The family raised out to the grazing areas in the morning, practices and briefly chatting about the alpacas, llamas, sheep, and cattle. They and the herder would follow the herd production of traditional embroidery. had a few horses and burros, as well as and stay with it all day. In the evening Most people were focused on preparing several springs on the property, though they grazed their way back to the family for the celebration, so my information only one of them was used. compound. gathering was limited to my own observations. In Pucarayllo, there was an emphasis The community of Coarita is very on knitting rather than weaving. I met well organized and has a vision for the The handwork I saw was of exceptional one woman in a knitting group who community. It maintains a communal quality, but everyone, with the exception was doing knitted work out of wool and herd of alpacas, which is being improved 14 Yachaspa A Word from World Wise Schools by introducing superior breeding stock, and it has built a shearing by Robert Fournier stories by Peace Corps Volunteers, along shed, a dip tank for external parasite Returned Volunteer Services/ with suggestions for classroom use; control, and a fleece storage shed. World Wise Schools and a variety of multimedia resources. In my conversations with people I [email protected] Participants will also have the opportunity was told that the community works to apply for overseas phone calls with together to get the shearing done Correspondence Match is a program their Peace Corps Volunteer during the and the fleeces stored. They would offered by Coverdell World Wise Schools annual Peace Corps Week celebration in like to develop a reserve for vicuñas that links up local teachers with Peace March. and avestruz (literally “ostrich”, but Corps Volunteers working overseas. actually the Suri. a bird similar to Participating Peace Corps Volunteers share If you are interested in connecting with a the Rhea). stories, artifacts, photos, and much more currently serving Peace Corps Volunteer with students, all the while promoting the through our Correspondence Match I regret that I was not able to third goal of the Peace Corps: bringing program, please contact Coverdell World spend more time in each of these other cultures back to the people of the Wise Schools at wwsinfo@peacecorps. communities. Overlooked in all United States. Enrolled teachers will gov or call us at 800.424.8580, ext. 1450. three communities is the need have access to an array of educational For more information, visit our website for increased forage production resources: the Match Handbook, which at www.peacecorps.gov/wws/correspond. and forage management, a vital provides practical guidance and ideas for concern. Someone with pasture the correspondence; monthly topical We look forward to hearing from you. and animal management expertise e-newsletters; rich publications with could help the people of these three communities make these positive changes. New Bolivia Travel INSTANT BOLIVIA The Chijnaya Foundation would Guide From RPCV Travel Information for International Visitors like to have experienced volunteers David Dolson March 2006 for short-term assistance. If you Volume 2, Issue 2 have expertise in animal husbandry, David P. Dolson, Ed.D. forage management, textiles, or Assisted in research by Pablo E. Salazar Instant Bolivia: Bolivia Travel and marketing, please contact Ralph Tourism Directory for International Bolton at [email protected]. Let Visitors, a project coordinated by an me know; I’d love to be involved RPCV from Bolivia is again available again. online. The Directory, in addition to Bolivia Today

an introduction to Bolivia, contains A Subsidiary of Diversity Reviews Fox Hollow Farm and Fiber, Inc. Sacramento, California, USA chapters on (1) preparation for your trip, www.boliviatoday.org 30781 Fox Hollow Road (2) hotels, (3) restaurants, (4) shopping Eugene, Oregon 97405-9501 & entertainment, (5) travel and tourism 541 343-6596 i services and (6) healthcare. Instant Bolivia is available free-of-charge Instant Bolivia was written by David from BoliviaNet (www.bolivianet. Dolson who was an Altiplano volunteer com), a Bolivian Web portal. Additional from 1967-1970. Since completing information is available by contacting his PC service, David has worked on a David at [email protected]. number of educational projects with the Bolivian Secretaría de Educación, David P. Dolson, Ed.D. primarily focusing on programs of 9 Nautilus Court bilingual instruction for Aymara and Sacramento, CA 95831-1413 Quechua-speaking pupils. David is also (916) 391-5316 the former editor of Amigos’ newsletter, Yachaspa.

Spring 2007 15 Film Reviews: Some of Perú’s Best by Gloria Levin Perú 66-68 Perú continues to produce excellent He applies to the tabloid El Clamor, films, an increasing number of which are expecting to be assigned to culture and being distributed abroad and are winning arts but instead this “practicante” (intern) international film awards. Many of the is assigned to cover crime, apprenticing best Perúvian films address the rapid to the veteran but sleazy reporter, urbanization and modernization of Perú, Faundez, joining his team of a driver and with the attendant corruption which photographer. Under Faundez’s tutelage, challenges traditional Perúvian values. Alfonso abandons his scruples, cranking The most prominent of these films can out sensationalized (and untrue) accounts be rented via Netflix and Blockbuster, of murders and accidents and taking up including “Tinta Roja” and “Polvo smoking, drinking and nights out with his Enamorado,” both of which were adapted colleagues. In one section of the film, the from Chilean works for the Perúvian veterans explain the value of their work and liberal priest, arrives to replace the context. to their mostly poor readers: “If you don’t old, conservative padre. He counsels her appear on TV or in the press, you’re nobody on free will and that her body is her own … (otherwise) poor people don’t exist. That’s property, improving her self-confidence. where we come in. The crimes section is the Natalia and Santiago are mutually only place where they appear. It’s like the attracted and, at Natalia’s initiative, begin social column for the poor.” The intern a passionate affair. Santiago attempts and the veteran are both revealed to have to resist and is tortured by breaking his family secrets, and several subplots unite vows by this adulterous affair but, by this in the end. This film runs 119 minutes; time, Natalia is persistent in pursuing her the English subtitles are better than own carnal desires. Santiago succumbs most. and plans to leave the priesthood, marry Natalia and relocate to Lima. Warned The 2003 film, “Polvo Enamorado,” spins by his grown son (who himself lusts a tale of love and passion prohibited by the for Natalia) that he is being cuckolded, Catholic Church. With the revelation of Matia discovers the lovers, sparking a many priests’ sexual indiscretions recently, dramatically tragic ending that takes this film is timely. Natalia, a beautiful several unexpected twists and turns. A woman in her early 20s living in a quiet political subplot involves the townspeople coastal Perúvian town, entered a convent fighting corporate fishing poachers off the Released in 2000, “Tinta Roja” was as a small girl, but left the novitiate at age coast, with no protection provided from directed by Francisco Lombardi (born 17 to marry, at her campesino parents’ the central government in Lima. The in Tacna in 1947), the director of the urging, the town’s kind, well off, 60- central theme is how the town, the church, most widely distributed Perúvian films, year old Mayor, Matia. Adoring Natalia, the couple, and the local police cope with including “Ojos que no Ven”, “Pantaleon he agreed to respect her wish to remain the disintegration of religious and moral y las Visitadoras”, and “No Se Lo Digas chaste and untouched, and did so for values in a modernizing Perú. This 106 a Nadie”. Lombardi’s films explore the four years. However, he was tortured by min. film, directed by Luis Barrios, was ongoing battle between corruption and his unconsummated marriage and began a nominee for best foreign language film idealism in Perú. In “Tinta Roja”, that slipping a sedative into her evening coffee, at the 2004 Miami International Film theme is realized by an exploration of fondling her while she slept. Terrified Festival. tabloid journalism in Lima. A talented when she woke to find Matia in her bed, READ A GOOD BOOK writer who aspires to be a novelist, she runs to confession, where the town’s LATELY? SEEN A GOOD recent college graduate Alfonso applies priest (Matia’s close friend) advises her MOVIE? SUBMIT YOUR for a scholarship for graduate studies, that the Church teaches that she should a requirement of which is to perform a consummate their marriage. At the same OWN REVIEWS AND newspaper internship at a newspaper. time, Father Santiago, a handsome young SPREAD THE WORD!

16 Yachaspa Amigos Members Celebrate Peace Corps Week to Honor Third Goal by Patt Behler Dept. of Natural Resources (RPCV Costa Perú 62-64 Rica), and an agricultural worker (RPCV Brazil), as well as “yours truly”. Each year as I receive notices from Peace Corps about doing some local celebration With “Then and Now” photos reproduced of Peace Corps Week, I start with the best along with a full page article, it hit the of intentions to cover the community Style page the Sunday before PC Week with glorious talks and presentations that began. Folks, this turned out to be big will immediately send people to the PC news in our locality. Numerous people phone number or website to investigate recognized me – they said I was “so and to volunteer. This year was not young” in that photo! different; I thought of spots where I might be welcome, such as the local university, An elderly woman in a local retirement the public schools, the home schoolers, center called me and talked, and talked, etc. about her young granddaughter and new husband who are currently serving in PC/ I annually receive an offer from the Peace Namibia. The woman’s family keeps in Corps to receive a promotional packet close touch with them by e-mail and cell Bringing the Peace with handouts, ideas for presentations, phone conversations. Ah me! I remember sample news releases, etc. As time went the ONE phone call I made during my Corps Home by, I realized that I had failed to send in two years of service and that was from by Lindsey Eaves my request card for the material by the Chile because the phone connection was Perú 03-05 deadline but, knowing the ways that PC supposedly better from there than from (sometimes) works, I sent it in anyway! Arequipa. After returning to the United States only

four short months ago, my adjustment No response and the week to celebrate In addition, I had the opportunity to process was well underway. Of course (February 26 to March 4) was fast suggest that Peter de Simone, (the retired the first few weeks were difficult. approaching; an 800 number gave me the RCV) and his wife Mary, come to our Remembering to put the toilet paper in regional office in Chicago and thanks to Unitarian Universalist Fellowship to talk the toilet instead of the trash can was the the staff member there, I did receive my that last Sunday of PC Week. They had hardest concept for me to grasp, but in packet just in time. It included a guidelines recently made a return trip (for Peter) the end, I learned to adapt. Being home sheet with the latest PC statistics such as to Tanzania after 43 years. It was great; all the time and job searching was a drag. how many, where, age, gender, etc. Also Peter compared what was with what is, I mean, really, who LIKES looking for included was a handsome oversized map people asked questions, and I handed out a job? But the highlight of that period illustrating all of the countries in which PC stickers and bookmarks provided in was having time. Time to go to the gym, PC has served since 1961. I also found a the kit. time to be with my family, and most poster saying “friend” in many languages importantly, time to get the mail every promoting Peace Corps Partnership that Maybe this is “small news” but to me day! And one day I got an envelope in I mounted in a frame for display. when each of us does something to the mail from Peace Corps. When I promote the idea of “Peace, not War”, it’s opened the box and saw Peace Corps Earlier I had been approached by the a worthwhile endeavor. I hope you have printed on the envelope, it immediately local News Tribune (because I’d already opportunities to do the same. If you feel brought me back to the days when I was made friends with a reporter who covered so inclined, why don’t you write up some anxiously awaiting my acceptance letter. the Lewis and Clark Corps adventure in experiences you’ve had with “explaining After already completing my two-year our parts) and she actually asked ME if the Peace Corps to our fellow and sister service in Perú and staying an additional she could do an article on the PC. I gave citizens (Oh, is the Peace Corps still year in South America, I knew it wasn’t her names of several other RPCVs in this around?)”. another assignment. Curious, I opened it area, one a retired Missouri Association of on the spot. It was an information packet Social Welfare director (RPCV Tanzania), We’d really like to hear about your telling me that Peace Corps Week 2007 another the Director of our Missouri experiences. Spring 2007 17 was coming up. And to honor the 46th Perú and Peace Corps. After the presentation was over I played anniversary of Peace Corps and support a traditional music CD and showed the third goal of its mission I was asked to On Friday, March 2, I met with 10 everyone how to dance “huayno”. share my experience with someone. girls between the ages of 8-12. I wore the traditional Andean outfit, which The girls really enjoyed learning about Perú I contacted the local Boys and Girls Club included a hat, several skirts and llanquis and its customs. Everyone had questions and spoke with the Program Director, (tire sandals). I introduced them to Peace and wanted to know how they could go April Chervenka. Every Friday from 7 Corps and answered their questions about to Perú with the Peace Corps. I think that pm-8 pm is “Girls Night Out” at the club. Perú. I showed pictures of my host family by completing the third goal of helping to This program has been running since and also a short “day in the life” video I promote a better understanding of other October 2006 in an effort to get more made about my time in my village. We people and cultures, RPCVs are opening girls involved. Usually the girls work with also made “arroz con leche,” a traditional up other opportunities to young people arts and crafts or cook. Ms. Chervenka Perúvian dessert similar to rice pudding. that they didn’t even know existed. invited me to speak with them about Historians Explore Andean Indigenous Movements by Jeff Fletcher 52 percent of the people live in extreme recently, has provided relatively equal [email protected] poverty today. attention to all groups. This is different from landlocked Bolivia, where the human History professors Brooke Larson (Stony Larson advocated for viewing history problems of the lowland provinces (as Brook State University of New York) and as cultural construct forged in struggle. opposed to their natural resource wealth) Erick Langer (Georgetown University), In Bolivia today, she said, the people have seemed to be a low priority for the both accomplished authors in the study of “are changing the dead past into living Morales administration, as shown by the modern indigenous movements, discussed memories, reconstructing ancestral titles slow pace of the declaration of emergency the cultural roots of the indigenous to land, and reclaiming cultural memories for the recent Beni flooding. Moreover, radicalism now sweeping Bolivia in a and practices in music and agriculture.” the lowland areas of Bolivia have only lecture on March 1 in Washington, D.C. become population centers important to To answer her own question of “What the nation during the past forty years. In her remarks, Larson argued for a new Makes Bolivia Special?” she cited three framework for looking at the root causes major factors: the specifics of Aymara Langer noted that President Morales of what is happening in Bolivia today. history and culture, especially the was quite late in discovering his Aymara Conjunctural history, which involves centuries-old tradition of land-based roots, and that considerable tension still reading backwards to the past to look at kinship units and communal lands; the exists between leftist Bolivian politics the roots of indigenous movements, can newfound desire of the Aymara people and the indigenous movement. In terms explain much of contemporary politics: the and their intellectual leaders to re-write of numbers and clout, the Quechua election of Evo Morales; the repudiation their own history; and the awakening continue to gain ground at the expense of neoliberalism, fiscal austerity policies, among Aymaras, Quechuas, Guaranis, of the Aymara in Bolivia. So, is Aymara and globalization; the reframing of the and other indigenous peoples, of an really a collective memory, or just a coca debate; the rejection of two centuries interest in citizenship and a desire to claim language? of oligarchic homogenization in favor their commensurate rights as citizens. of local autonomy; and the awakening Neither Larson nor Langer was willing of grassroots movements designed to Responding to Larson’s points, Langer to predict the outcome of the current preserve languages and land structures. urged caution about reading too divisive struggle between the lowland and That approach cannot, however, explain much into Bolivia’s cultural history highland peoples in Bolivia. The speakers why this awakening of indigenous fervor or about using it as a model for other noted that both President Morales and occurred. countries. First, Langer explained, there wealthy lowland landowners are trying to are differences of geography. In Perú, develop alliances with the poor in Santa Cultural history, in contrast, explores in coastal area inhabitants now outnumber Cruz and other lowland provinces, but a depth the collective memory of a people, highlanders and dominate the Altiplano camba-colla lovefest seems unlikely in the through long periods of quietude, population in politics and economics. near future. oppression, and awakening, to offer a In Ecuador, indigenous people are more cohesive view of the deep roots of greatly outnumbered in many parts of conflict in a country like Bolivia, where the country but the government, until 18 Yachaspa Amigos de Bolivia y Perú Membership Form (rev. March 2007)

Mail this form and a check (made out to Amigos de Bolivia y Perú) to Amigos, 7327 University Ave., Glen Echo, MD 20812 To join or renew via the National PC Association, using a credit card, go to http://www.rpcv.org and click “Join/Renew” When prompted for an affiliate group, choose Amigos de Bolivia y Perú

Surname______First Name______Surname as PCV ______

Street ______

City ______State/Country______Zip Code ______

Home Telephone ______Employment: ______

Work Tel: ______E-Mail: ______

Host Country & Dates of Service______(e.g. Bolivia, 1997-1999) ------(If spouse is also joining Amigos) Spouse surname as PCV ______

Spouse surname now______First Name______

Work Tel ______E-Mail ______

Spouse’s Employment: ______

Spouse’s Host Country & Dates of Service ______(e.g. Perú, 2002-2004) ------Check, if you are a member of NPCA: _____

Please check as appropriate and tally the subtotals in the right-hand column.

______Free (close of service within one year) 1 yr. FREE membership

______Annual Dues $15 Individual $______(Double or triple for 2- or 3-year membership) $22.50 Couple/Family $______

$8 Student/Retired $______

$4 Hardship $______

______Foreign Address (Via U.S. Mail) $5 (if no email) $______

______Tax deductible donation to Amigos’ Kantuta development programs $______Earmark your donation to: (____ Bolivia) (____ Perú) (____50/50)

GRAND TOTAL $ ______Spring 2007 19