Cosmetology Curriculum

Book 1. Structure of the Skin

Contents

Function

Structure

Glands of the Skin

Significance for the Salon Professional

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Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to identify the structure of the skin and its functions.

Overview The skin is a living organ of the body. The salon professional must understand the anatomy (structure) and the physiology (function) of the skin in order to make recommendations and provide treatments to enhance the health of the skin. Skin is an active, living structure with two surfaces: • External surface: Esthetician treats • Internal surface: Physician treats (but the esthetician must understand) The skin is the largest organ of the body: • Weight: Approximately 9 pounds • Size: 1.5 to 2 square meters (area of two regular kitchen table tops) • Thickness: 1.5 to 4.0 millimeters (1 inch = 2.54 millimeters); thickest on the soles of the feet and thinnest on the eyelids • Every square centimeter (cm) of the skin contains approximately: • 70 cm of blood vessels • 55 cm of nerves • 100 sweat glands • 15 oil glands • 230 sensory receptors • 1/2 million cells

Preparation For this lesson you will need: • Hand-held dermascopes

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Function Heat Regulation • The body adapts to temperature variations. • The body is cooled by the evaporation of perspiration. • The body is warmed through increased circulation. • Arrector muscles increase the surface area of the skin, by creating "goose flesh," to warm the body. Excretion • Excretion eliminates water, salts, and toxins through perspiration. • Symptoms begin to show externally when toxins build up beneath the skin. • Sweat mixes with sebum (secreted by the sebaceous glands) to keep skin supple. Protection • The main function of the skin is to provide an elastic, protective covering for internal organs. • If unbroken, it prevents passage of harmful physical or chemical agents and bacteria. • It prevents excessive loss of water and salts. Absorption • The skin’s absorption role is limited due to the skin’s protective function. • Substances are absorbed through hair follicles, sebaceous glands, sweat glands, and the skin itself. • The ability of the skin to absorb substances depends on its overall health and any breaks or irregularities in the surface tissue. • The skin may absorb water if the body is dehydrated. Secretion • The skin secretes oil for lubrication.

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Sensation • Skin provides the sense of touch. • Sensory nerve endings in the dermis make us aware of heat, cold, pressure, pain, and touch.

Structure The skin is composed of three primary layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous layer.

Layers of Epidermis The outermost layer of the skin is the epidermis, which serves as a protective covering for the body and is made up of the following four layers:

Stratum Corneum • This is the outermost layer, comprised of layers of cells made up of a protein called keratin. • These cells are constantly being shed and replaced. • It is in contact with and protects the body from the environment. Stratum Lucidum • This is a layer of clear cells present only on the palms and soles. • It allows light to pass through to enter the next layer. Stratum Granulosum • This is where the cell nucleus changes and begins to look “granular.” Stratum Germinativum (basal layer) • This is where the cells divide. • It contains pigment cells that produce melanin, which protects the skin when exposed to ultraviolet rays (producing a tan).

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Layers of the skin

Layers of Dermis The dermis is a resilient and sensitive structure that passes nutrients to the epidermis and allows the skin to move, take shocks, and cool and warm the body. It is composed mainly of blood vessels, connective tissue, hair follicles, and nerves. It has two layers that give the skin elasticity, nourishment, and sensitivity, and support the hair and nails.

Papillary Layer • Is located under the epidermis, and connects the dermis to the epidermis by ridges and grooves called papillae. • Contains capillaries and nerve endings. Reticular Layer • Makes up 80 to 90% of the dermis. • Contains blood vessels, lymph vessels, fat cells, sweat and sebaceous glands, hair follicles, and capillaries. • Contains collagen and elastin fibers, which give the skin its support and elasticity.

Subcutaneous Layer This layer, which lies under the reticular layer of the dermis, is sometimes thought of as the last layer of the dermis. It is made up of a group of adipose, or fatty, tissue that gives the body an energy supply and contour.

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Glands of the Skin Two duct glands regulate the appearance and functions of the skin:

Oil/Sebaceous Glands • Secrete hormones onto the skin’s surface • Are connected to hair follicles • Are responsible for secreting sebum (oil) • Play a role in the development of blemishes and acne, when excessive amounts are secreted Sweat Glands • Are found in the second layer of the skin • Are responsible for excreting sweat to help regulate body temperature

Significance for the Salon Professional Soft, smooth, moist skin is able to function properly and has an attractive appearance. Practice skin care in the salon that encourages natural balance and promotes the skin’s aesthetic qualities.

Summary The skin is an essential organ of the body, important for protection, sensation, and other functions. It consists of three layers and two types of duct glands. Understanding the purpose and function of the skin provides a context for proper skin care.

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Contents

New Understanding of Skin Care

Basic Skin Conditions

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Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to • Identify the basic conditions that skin may experience • Improve these conditions

Overview Traditionally skin has been broken down into five basic categories: • Normal to combination • Dry • Oily • Mature • Sensitive Through years of experience and research we have learned that skin is continually going through changes and, with a shift in environment, age, lifestyle, and health, the skin’s needs may change as well. As a salon professional it is vital to understand the basic conditions of the skin, why they occur, and how to bring the skin back into balance using products and services. Lesson 2: Skin Conditions is a companion to this lesson.

Preparation For this lesson you will need: • Standard setup (see Module 3, Lesson 3: Preparing Your Station) • Skin care products

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New Understanding of Skin Care

Previously Skin types were thought of as relatively stable. Today we know that skin is living tissue in a constant state of change. Skin was categorized primarily according to its oil production. Manufacturers developed a line of products for each skin type.

Currently Product recommendations are still based on skin “types,” but we now know that the skin continually changes. The skin directly reflects the health and balance of the body. Oil production can vary depending on age, hormonal shifts, medications, and overall health. Manufacturers are marketing more products for sensitive and aging skin to keep up with those growing populations. The salon professional's responsibility is to educate clients on the changing needs of their skin and to make appropriate recommendations.

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Basic Skin Conditions

Dry • Dry skin lacks sebum (oil). • It is often fine, textured skin, prone to flakiness, with small, closed pores. • Oil production is decreased with age. • It is more sensitive or easily irritated due to the absence of natural moisture barrier. • Skin lacking moisture/water is referred to as "dehydrated skin." • Recommend exfoliation to remove cellular build-up (allows for more effective hydration). • Use hydrating moisturizers.

Oily • Oily skin produces excessive amounts of sebum. • Large, open pores in the T-zone extend into the cheeks. • Blemishes are common. • It can be sensitive and dehydrated, possibly due to overuse of harsh, drying products. • Oiliness may be affected by hormonal shifts, poor diet, excessive cleansing, or medications. • Recommend thorough cleansing, use of an astringent, regular exfoliation and deep cleansing masque.

Combination • Combination skin is both oily (T-zone) and dry (cheeks). • It is the most common skin type seen in salons. • It may experience conditions seen with both oily and dry skin. • Recommend treating each area appropriately according to needs; avoid over-treating areas.

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Sensitive • Sensitive skin shows a fast response to stimulation by product, massage, or vapor, which increase vascular activity. • Skin can be blotchy with visible capillaries. • Sensitive skin can be found in all age groups and skin types. • It is most commonly found in dry and young skin. • Sensitive skin reacts easily to alcohol-based products, abrasive scrubs, synthetic fragrances, dyes, soaps, and environmental extremes of cold, wind, and sun.

Mature/Aging • Some skin types mature or age more rapidly. • Characteristics of mature skin include dryness/ dehydration, prominent wrinkles, loss of elasticity, pigmentation disorders, and thinning of skin tissue. • As the U.S. population ages and consumers continue to search for the "fountain of youth," services and products for mature skin will continue to grow in popularity. • Recommend exfoliation, hydrating moisturizers, specialized product for eye and lined areas, and sun protection.

Summary The most important step in designing a skin care system for your client is proper diagnosis. Understanding the basic skin conditions provides a foundation to effective diagnosis which will ensure your treatment’s success and client’s satisfaction.

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Contents

Skin Analysis

Symptoms

Primary Lesions

Secondary Lesions

Skin Conditions

Skin Diseases

Allergic Reactions

Significance for the Salon Professional

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Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to: • Recognize common skin conditions and their possible causes • Know when to discontinue service

Overview Any imbalance of the skin is considered to be a disorder. Certain disorders may be improved in the salon, but others must be treated by a physician. Common skin disorders include: • Primary and secondary lesions (the less severe form of lesions; tertiary lesions must be treated by a physician) • Dysfunction of the oil or sweat gland (blemishes) • Allergic reactions • Irregular pigmentation • Hypertrophies (skin growths such as moles and skin tags) Maintaining the natural balance of your clients’ skin can help keep disorders to a minimum.

Skin Analysis The consultation and analysis of the skin is very important to the success of the service and product recommendations. You must: • Determine client’s needs • Determine possible causes of the conditions • Determine course of treatment/services • Determine product recommendations

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Symptoms A disorder can be recognized by its objective or subjective symptoms: • Objective symptoms can be seen by an outside observer: pus, redness, swelling, etc. • Subjective symptoms can be felt by the person who has the condition: itching, pain, burning, etc. When you observe a skin disorder, it is your responsibility to know whether or not you should continue the service. This lesson gives guidelines to help you determine when you must not provide service.

Primary Lesions Primary lesions are abnormalities in the skin due to the existence of disease or injury. They can include any external swelling, bite, elevated area, or disturbance. Do not provide facial treatments to clients with broken skin. If the hairline is irritated, chemical services are also not to be provided. Refer the client to a physician. Be cautious about any potential openings in primary lesions, because they may mean that the skin is compromised or not functioning optimally.

Secondary Lesions Secondary lesions are the after-effects of primary lesions (for example, the scabs or crusts left after cuts or abrasions begin to heal). If the secondary lesion is localized, you need to avoid it when performing a service. If it covers a large area, do not provide the service at all.

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Skin Conditions

Dehydration Appearance: Lines appear when a facial expression is made Causes: Climate factors such as wind, sun, cold, indoor heating, and air conditioning; excessive alcohol and caffeine consumption; crash diets, lack of sufficient water in diet

Papule Appearance: A small elevation of the skin, usually red in color Cause: Inflammation of the hair follicle

Milia Appearance: A small raised whitehead Cause: Accumulation of sebum and skin cell matter trapped beneath the skin, commonly found in small pores

Milia

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Comedone Appearance: A “blackhead” seen at the opening of the hair follicle (pore) Causes: A worm-like mass of hardened sebum in the hair follicle due to excessive secretion of sebum and a build up of skin cells in the follicle. Comedones have a black color due to melanin (skin’s pigmentation cells).

Comedone

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Pustule Appearance: A small, red, inflamed elevation containing a white center (pus) Cause: Infection (bacteria) of a blocked follicle (comedone, papule)

Pustule

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Scarring Appearance: Dense, fibrous connective tissue that may be lighter or darker than surrounding skin. The scar tissue may be raised, as in a keloid scar, or sunken, as in acne pit and ice pick scars. Cause: Formed as the end result of healing after a wound

Keratinization Appearance: Flakiness on the skin’s surface Cause: Cells build up on the skin’s surface

Keratinization

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Verruca (warts) Appearance: Tiny, pink or clear, shiny papules most commonly found on hands and feet Cause: Virus that can spread by contact

Attention: Can be removed by a medical doctor. Use gloves, especially when providing pedicures.

Moles Appearance: Small, round pigmented areas on the skin, usually brown in color. Moles can be flat or raised and may have hairs growing from them. Cause: Formed from deposits of pigment in the skin. Moles receive an abundant blood supply.

Attention: Changes in moles should be examined by a physician. Skin cancer (malignant melanoma) can occur as a change in a mole.

Seborrhea Appearance: Skin and scalp appear shiny with comedones and/or pustules. Cause: Overactivity of the sebaceous glands

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Xanthoma Appearance: Small yellow/white bumps found around the eyes and on the forehead Cause: Cholesterol trapped beneath the skin’s surface due to excess cholesterol in the diet or abnormal lipid fat metabolism

Xanthoma

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Irritation/Rashes Appearance: Skin may appear red and swollen with hives, blisters, scaling, and dehydration. The area affected may itch, burn, and feel warm to the touch. Causes: Allergic reaction to a substance (nickel, detergent); chemical reaction to a substance (Retin-A, chemical peel); sunburn

Disorders of the Sweat Glands Miliaria rubra, also known as prickly heat, causes itching and creates a red appearance. It is common in the summer, as it is caused by exposure to high temperature. It may be aggravated by weight problems and increased perspiration. Anidrosis is a very dangerous condition characterized by decreased perspiration and an inability to regulate temperature. Refer the client to a medical doctor. Hyperidrosis is characterized by increased perspiration. It can be caused by many serious conditions. Refer the client to a medical doctor.

Erythema Appearance: Redness of the skin Causes: Allergic or chemical reaction; sunburn; disease (rheumatism, septicemia)

Congestion Appearance: Bumps beneath the surface of the skin or slightly raised areas. If left untreated may become inflamed. Cause: Pores filled with an accumulation of skin cells and sebum.

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Lines (wrinkles) Appearance: A small ridge or furrow in the skin Cause: Breakdown of elastin and collagen in the dermis

Nevus (strawberry birthmark, port wine stain, spider veins) Appearance: Birthmarks can appear as a mole, irregular pigmentation patches, or red areas. Causes: The cause is unknown; however, some may be genetically determined. Virus, other infections, and nutritional factors may play a role.

Chloasma Appearance: Patchy brown discoloration of the skin, most commonly found on the face (forehead, nose, and cheeks). Cause: The main substance that gives skin its characteristic color is melanin, a brownish pigment. Pigment irregularities are usually caused from internal sources; however, certain stains can arise from external sources. It can appear during pregnancy with a change in hormones. Products containing alpha and beta hydroxy acids are often used in treatments and are recommended for home use.

Hyperpigmentation Appearance: Darker patches on the skin, larger than freckles, and sometimes raised, due to increased deposits of pigment Causes: Can be caused by sun, medication, disease, birth control pills, hormonal imbalance, pregnancy, and damage to skin. Hyperpigmentation is most common in aged skin; the darker skin patches can be enlarged with exposure to the sun.

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Leucoderma Appearance: Abnormal light patches of skin can be referred to as Vitiligo or Albinism Cause: Congenital defective pigmentation

Leucoderma

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Edema Appearance: Abnormal infiltration of tissues with fluid, swelling Causes: Injury, bacterial infection, disease (circulatory, urinary, and liver)

Cyst Appearance: A closed, abnormally developed sac containing fluid, semi-fluid, or solid matter. A cyst may be felt deeper in the skin and is often larger than a papule. Cause: The fatty substance (sebum) produced by the oil glands gets trapped deep in the follicle and may become inflamed, resulting in lumps filled with sebum and dead cells. In some cases, follicles rupture in the dermis (lower level) of the skin, causing damage as they work out to the surface. This can cause the body to form a wall (membrane) around the cyst. Most often seen in an acne condition. Should be treated by a dermatologist.

Cyst

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Skin Diseases Attention: These diseases require medical attention. Do not treat in a salon environment. Refer to a physician.

Eczema (Dermatitis) Appearance: An inflammatory condition characterized by redness, dryness, itching, scaling, and tiny blisters that may ooze Causes: A tissue reaction involving the epidermis and upper layers of the dermis. The cause may be an external contact with a substance to which the skin is allergic (dermatitis) or internal stimulus via the blood stream (diet and stress level are believed to play a role). Often genetics plays a role. Contagion: Not contagious. Certain types are seasonal.

Psoriasis Appearance: A common, chronic inflammatory skin disease, often characterized by the appearance of whitish or silvery scales with circumscribed red patches. May be found all over the body, but the most common sites include elbows and knees. Cause: Genetically determined; may skip a generation Contagion: Not contagious

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Impetigo Appearance: An inflammatory skin disease characterized by vesicles (tiny blisters) that become pustules and then honey-colored crusts. Commonly found on the face (around the mouth) and on the scalp. Cause: Cocci bacteria Contagion: Highly contagious especially among children. May be spread by personal contact, towels, or combs.

Furuncle Appearance: A boil Cause: An inflammation of the hair follicle caused by cocci bacteria Contagion: Not contagious

Folliculitis Barbea Appearance: Chronic pustular condition affecting the beard area or upper lip of men Causes: Cocci bacteria; ingrown hairs; improper shaving methods Contagion: Not contagious

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Acne Vulgaris Appearance: Chronic inflammatory condition of the hair follicles of the face, chest, and back characterized by the presence of comedones, papules, and pustules Cause: The pilosebaceous glands (hair follicles) are overstimulated by circulating androgens (hormones), and the excessive sebum is trapped by a plug of keratin (protein). Skin bacteria then invade and convert the trapped sebum into irritant fatty acids responsible for the swelling and inflammation. Diet and stress may aggravate this condition. Contagion: Not contagious

Rosacea (Acne Rosacea) Appearance: Chronic dilation of the capillaries accompanied by seborrhea and pustules. Most commonly found on the cheeks and nose. The skin is coarse and the nose may be enlarged. Causes: May be caused by poor digestion, over- indulgence in alcohol, excessive spicy foods in the diet, over-exposure to extreme climate, faulty elimination, and hyperactivity. Contagion: Not contagious

Tinea Circinata (Ringworm of the Skin) Appearance: This disease shows lesions of a ring formation with a central clearing. The affected skin is scaly and sometimes red; the active part of the lesion may show vesicles and pustules. Itching is often present. Cause: A fungus infection of the skin. Contagion: The infection may be passed from human to human, acquired from animals or soil.

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Herpes Simplex Appearance: Cold sore. An eruption of groups of vesicles that may ooze. Cause: Virus. Recurrent episodes are common, as virus remains latent in nerve ganglia after initial infection. Contagion: Contagious by contact with fluid from the vesicles

Skin Tag Appearance: Bead-like fibrous tissues that stand away from the skin. They are often dark in color and are most commonly found in middle-aged and elderly women on the neck and upper part of the chest. Cause: May be irritated or growth-stimulated by friction from necklaces, belts, collars, etc. Contagion: Not contagious. Skin tags can easily be removed by a physician.

Basal Cell Carcinoma (Skin Cancer) Appearance: Small, pearly nodule; may be some capillaries present over the tumor Causes: Can be hereditary or can be caused by over- exposure to the sunlight. High cure rate if detected early. Refer to a dermatologist immediately. Contagion: Not contagious

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Squamous Cell Carcinoma (Skin Cancer) Appearance: Red, scaly nodule or patch. Commonly found on areas exposed to the sun: rim of ear, face, lips, and mouth Causes: Over-exposure to the sun, chemicals, chronic sores. Can spread and increase in size if left untreated. Refer to dermatologist immediately. Contagion: Not contagious

Malignant Melanoma (Skin Cancer) Appearance: A dark spot on the skin with irregular borders; may appear as a change in a mole. Black skin may develop tumor on palms and soles, under nails, or in the mouth where they do not have the pigment for protection. Causes: Over-exposure to the sun, radiation. Strong tendency to spread and can be fatal. Refer to dermatologist immediately. Contagion: Not contagious

Allergic Reactions Allergic or hypersensitive reactions may occur with moderate or severe symptoms, occasionally even causing death. Do not treat clients while the allergic reaction is active; refer them to a doctor. Some examples of allergic reactions that cause dermatitis (skin inflammation) are: • Dermatitis venenata, which occurs as a response to surface contact with a substance • Dermatitis medicamentosa, which occurs after a drug has been injected • Urticaria (hives), which is an inflamed pimple-like reaction to a substance • Eczema, which often is caused by chemical hair tint, metal hair ornaments, or jewelry

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Significance for the Salon Professional Whether working as a cosmetologist, esthetician, or manicurist, you always have contact with your client’s skin. An esthetician will perform more services on the skin, but all professionals must be able to recognize common skin disorders.

Summary Before you can treat clients or refer them to a physician, it is necessary to have a rudimentary grasp of common conditions. This lesson builds a foundation of the skin diseases and disorders you will encounter.

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Contents

Definition

Cause of Acne

Aggravating Factors

Cosmetic Acne

Dermatologist Treatments

Esthetician's Role

Esthetician Treatment Considerations

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Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to: • Identify the causes of and treatments for acne • Identify the esthetician’s role in treating an acne condition

Overview It is estimated that 85% of teenagers and 20% of adults will suffer from some form of acne. This condition affects not only the skin, but also one’s emotions and self-image. Each year approximately $300 million of acne products are sold over the counter. Few of these products do any good and this is due in part to the lack of knowledge by the consumer about acne. As salon professionals, we have a wonderful opportunity to educate our clients and help to improve their acne condition.

Preparation For this lesson you will need: • Standard setup (see Module 3, Lesson 3: Preparing Your Station)

Definition Acne is a chronic inflammatory disorder of the skin, usually related to hormonal changes and overactive sebaceous glands. It is commonly referred to as "acne vulgaris" (severe) or "acne simplex" (moderate). Medical doctors believe the tendency to develop acne is genetically inherited. It is common in adolescence, but is also common in the 20s and 30s. It is usually found on the face, shoulders, and back. The symptoms include redness, blemishes, pimples, and blackheads. We currently have treatments for acne symptoms but no cure for the disease.

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Cause of Acne 1. The body releases hormones (testosterone). 2. An enzyme in the skin changes testosterone to dihydrotestosterone. 3. Dihydrotestosterone stimulates sebaceous glands. 4. The acne sufferer will produce excessive sebum. 5. Defective follicles common in acne sufferers will retain dead cells and cause a blockage, thus trapping sebum (called "retention hyperkeratosis").

Retention hyperkeratosis

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6. Bacteria are present in the follicle living off of sebum. The bacteria are impacted and can spread within the dermis or on the surface of the skin when clients do their own extractions.

Impacted bacteria after improper manual extraction

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Aggravating Factors The following can irritate or bring on an acne condition if one is genetically predisposed: • Stress • Sunlight • Change of seasons • Hot, humid climates • Pressure, friction (clothes) • Picking at the skin • Industrial oil and chemicals • Diet (heavy in fats, iodine, fast foods) • Menstrual cycle and irregularities • Pregnancy • Birth control pill • Cosmetics (see the next section, Cosmetic Acne) • Steam rooms and saunas (a bit of steam is helpful for softening before extractions; too much and the follicle closes on the surface as it swells below, making the impaction more difficult to express)

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Cosmetic Acne Cosmetic acne is acne brought on by the use of products containing comedogenic ingredients. Comedogenic ingredients are substances that have the ability to penetrate down into the pore and cause the formation of comedones. Some of the common culprits include: • Isopropyl myristate • Isopropyl palmitate • Lanolin • Cocoa butter • Oleic acid • Squalene • Olive oil • Coal tar • Butyl stearate Cosmetic acne appears as slightly elevated small whiteheads on cheeks (caused by blush), chin and forehead (caused by moisturizer, foundation, and hair products like pomades). It most often affects teenagers and women who wear cosmetics. A person does not have to be genetically predisposed to get cosmetic acne.

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Dermatologist Treatments

Retin A • A topical agent that causes rapid sloughing of the surface skin cells. • Helps regulate the excessive build-up of cells in the follicle (retention hyperkeratosis).

Antibiotics (Benzol Peroxide, Tetracycline) • Applied topically or taken internally to inhibit or decrease bacterial growth in the follicle. • Skin may become very dry and some sloughing of cells takes place.

Accutane • Used for acne that does not respond to other medications. • Potent systemic drug that dries up sebum production, unclogs pores, kills bacteria, and reduces inflammation. • The best treatment for cystic acne (deep, large cysts in the skin). • Has some serious side effects including drying of mucous membranes, nosebleeds, loss of hair, and birth defects.

Sun Exposure • Causes peeling and drying. • The risk of skin cancer and skin damage outweigh the benefits of this treatment.

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Cryotherapy • Freezing the skin with dry ice and acetone, liquid nitrogen, or Freon spray. • Damages the stratum corneum, producing peeling and stimulating new cell growth. Also has an anti- inflammatory effect. • Drawbacks • Costly, as it needs to be done almost daily. • Risk of permanent damage to the skin (frostbite). • Alternative • Client or esthetician can apply cool compress or frozen aloe cubes over the acne area for three to five minutes.

Chemical Peeling • Used primarily for minimizing and/or removing acne pit scars. • Potent chemical agents such as phenol or carbolic acid burn the stratum corneum, thus causing peeling and stimulating new cell growth. • Drawbacks • Painful. • Sensitizes the skin, sometimes for life. • A milder strength chemical peel is available to estheticians for treating acne and scarring; special training is required by the manufacturer.

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Esthetician’s Role • Support the dermatologist: We are licensed to touch skin; we do not treat or cure skin disease. • Educate clients: We often spend more time with the client than the physician does. • Develop a course of facials for the client and a customized home care program. • Educate clients about aggravating factors and suggest healthy alternatives (facials or exercise to reduce stress, proper diet, cosmetic choices). • We can deal most effectively with preventing physical scars (proper extractions done in the salon).

Esthetician Treatment Considerations • Control topical bacteria. • Cleanse, tone, and use essential oils. • Use a proper antiseptic before and after extractions (alcohol). • Soften skin and prepare the follicles before extractions by using warm compresses, vapor, and exfoliants. • Avoid excessive heat, pressure, friction, and extremes in temperature. These factors can irritate the acne skin and cause further inflammation. • May use direct high frequency after extractions to disinfect and speed healing.

Summary It is rewarding to work with a client who is having a challenge with acne. You can improve some of the conditions associated with acne but must always refer severe acne to the physician for treatment.

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Contents

Hair Growth

Types of Hair

Temporary Hair Removal Methods

Permanent Hair Removal

Areas to Avoid During Hair Removal

Contraindications to Hair Removal

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1131733_S-0805GRTH.indd31733_S-0805GRTH.indd SSec11ec11 112/8/042/8/04 10:03:0710:03:07 AMAM HAIR GROWTH AND REMOVAL METHODS

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to: • identify the hair growth cycle • Identify the methods of hair removal

Overview Unwanted hair, superfluous hair, on the face and body is often a problem for both men and women. Here we will examine the hair growth cycle and the various methods of hair removal.

Preparation For this lesson you will need: • Standard setup (see Module 3, Lesson 3: Preparing Your Station) • Hair removal products and tools

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Hair Growth The hair bulb is located in the dermis. The bulb is attached to the blood supply and nerve endings. It is the living portion of the hair. Hair growth is primarily stimulated by hormones that are carried in the bloodstream. Elements affecting hair growth: • Hormones in various medications • Birth control pills • High blood pressure medication • Aspirin on a daily basis • Tanning beds • Caffeine • UV radiation stimulation from artificial lighting and other sources in the workplace, computer monitors, etc. Darker and more coarse hair growth can be the result of shaving, tweezing, and waxing. Hair grows in three phases: • Anagen: Growing stage; follicle is elongated; hair bulb is attached to blood supply • Catagen: Hair bulb begins moving upwards as the follicle starts to shrink • Telogen: Resting stage; hair near the surface of the skin; ready to be shed

Types of Hair • Vellus hair: Soft and fine, short and unpigmented. Do not wax as it may stimulate some follicles to produce darker hairs. • Terminal hair: Coarse, long, pigmented hairs found on scalp, beard, pubic area, eyebrow, eyelash, and axilla (armpits). • Intermediate hair: Between vellus and terminal in size and shape. Found on arms and legs in adults.

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Temporary Hair Removal Methods Shaving This is the most popular method in the United States. Removes at the surface, which makes it stubbly. Hair reappears within a day or two.

Tweezing This method removes the entire hair in follicle. Not practical for large areas. May stimulate hair growth.

Chemical Depilatories Dissolves hair on the surface. Hair grows back softer, not stubbly. Can be irritating to the skin.

"Epilady" Type Depilatories A wire coil pulls hair from the root. Can be painful and may cause ingrown hairs.

Waxing Removes hair from the root using warm or cool wax. Effective on larger areas. Hair takes 3–6 weeks to grow back.

Permanent Hair Removal Electrolysis is the only form of permanent hair removal. It destroys the dermal papilla and hair root with electrical current. Short wave, or thermolysis, is the most common type of electrolysis.

Areas to Avoid During Hair Removal Do not remove hair from nipples or mucous membrane areas: inside ears, nose, pubic area, near genitals.

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Contraindications to Hair Removal The following are contraindications to hair removal: • Broken, irritated, or infected skin; herpes, acne, cuts • Varicose veins • Sunburned or very sensitive skin • Accutane used within last six months for acne, because skin is very dry and easily irritated • Retin-A used within last three months. Retin-A is a peeling agent and if used with waxing or chemical depilatories the potential exists to remove the skin. • Warts or hairy moles • Diabetes, because healing is poor, and bruising may result; obtain physician’s approval • High blood pressure medications; bruises more easily • Any condition requiring medical treatment

Summary Understanding the anatomy and physiology of the hair and various removal methods will aid the esthetician in servicing the client in removing unwanted hair. Hair removal is a profitable service for the salon professional to provide in the salon.

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Contents

Waxing Procedure

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1131733_S-0806SWAX.indd31733_S-0806SWAX.indd Sec11Sec11 112/9/042/9/04 66:54:32:54:32 AAMM SUPERFLUOUS HAIR REMOVAL WITH SOFT WAX

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to wax the face and body.

Overview Removal of superfluous, unwanted hair for men and women can be a profitable service provided in the salon. Here, we will learn the techniques and procedure for waxing the face and body.

Preparation For this lesson you will need: • Standard setup (see Module 3, Lesson 3: Preparing Your Station) • Wax and heater • Hair removal strips • Towels • Client gown • T-pin • Antiseptic • Facial toner • After-care product • Cotton-tipped applicators • Tweezers • Scissors • Cotton pads • Eyebrow brush • Hand mirror • Release form • Disposable paper to protect bed • Wooden spatulas (various sizes)

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Waxing Procedure

1. Preparation for Waxing 1. Pre-heat wax 15-30 minutes prior to client arrival (look for appropriate consistency in wax). 2. Assemble equipment and all supplies. 3. Ensure that waxing area is well lit. 4. Protect bed with disposable paper or sheet. 5. Pre-cut hair-removal strips in various sizes (strips may be used three to six times and discarded). 6. Sanitation: Wash and disinfect hands and area.

2. Client Greeting • Introduction: Greet client, use client’s name, and smile. • Orientation: Tour salon, hang up coat, and offer tea; client fills out waxing questionnaire. • Client focus: Be conscious of where you are; give the client your full attention.

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3. Aesthetic Analysis 1. Needs analysis/listening: • Before beginning service, discuss client’s superfluous hair condition. • Use a mirror for brow waxing to clarify shape. • Review questionnaire with client. • Allow client to do most of the talking. Listen closely to the client’s needs and expectations. 2. Analyze hair and skin: • Check length, texture, and direction of hair growth. • Check skin condition (if skin is extremely dry it may be more sensitive to waxing; recommend body moisturizer). 3. Check for contraindications: • Check questionnaire for any contraindications listed. • Visually check area to be waxed. 4. Describe procedure and introduce products: • Clearly describe the waxing procedure, step-by-step. 5. Discuss service addition/team service: • Recommend facial, make-up, or tinting service. • Schedule following waxing service if possible.

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4. Waxing Activity 1. Client preparation: • Protect client’s hair and clothing. • Client may need to wear a gown for body waxing. 2. Sanitize hands. 3. Prepare area to be waxed: • Remove make-up with appropriate cleanser and toner. • Dry skin thoroughly; if skin is left moist it can be irritated when the wax is removed. 4. Check carefully for direction of hair growth, as it may vary. 5. Test wax temperature on inside of your wrist and client’s wrist. 6. Apply wax in direction of hair growth. 7. Apply removal strip over wax and lift up a free edge; rub over strip. 8. Stretch skin in the direction of hair growth and pull strip quickly against the growth: • Do not lift up on strip when removing, as it will cause hairs to break. 9. Apply pressure to area just waxed to soothe.

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Upper and Lower Leg Waxing Strips should be 2" wide and 10–12" long. Begin at ankle at front of legs. Speed waxing: Apply wax for three strips at once, apply strips and then remove one after the other. Position of strips may vary depending on the direction of hair growth. Applying wax to the upper lip Never wax over a bend in the body. Bend the knee when waxing that area. Always work strategically and quickly.

Upper Lip In most cases, use 3 strips. Recline client. Apply wax right up to lip line. If client is receiving a facial, perform facial before waxing.

Applying strip to the upper lip Recommend make-up not be applied to upper lip for a few hours or until skin is soothed.

Sides of Face, Hairline Only wax area where dark or unwanted hair exists. Make sure to protect hairline with headwrap.

Chin With angle of chin, strip needs to be pulled slightly upward. Only wax area where dark or unwanted hair exists.

Apply wax in direction of hair growth

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Brows C AB Note: ALWAYS check area to be waxed before and after facial waxing by asking client to look in mirror.

Measure length and position of arch following procedure learned in brow-shaping class and described below. The brow begins at the vertical line that has its base at the flare of the nostril (A). The high point of the brow should

be in line with the outside of the iris while the client is Proper brow shape looking forward (B). The outside of the brow is determined by a line formed by connecting the flare of the nostril with the outside corner of the eye (C). Once a strip is applied and lip is made, gently fold back top of strip to make sure wax has not slid into heavy growth of brow. If wax is in this area of brow do not remove strip. First remove excess wax with cotton-tip pad applicator dipped in toner or antiseptic; then proceed with removing the strip.

5. After Care Remove excess wax with the same strip immediately after removing the strip. Tweeze stray hairs after each strip is removed. When finished waxing each area, spray with facial toner and apply after-care product. Apply cool compresses; client may do so at home to reduce inflammation, especially for sensitive skin and facial waxing. Remove excess product before client dresses.

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6. Client Home Maintenance

Note: Follow wax manufacturer‘s guidelines, as home maintenance will vary.

Do not apply any product (lotion, deodorant, make-up, etc.) to waxed area for several hours. Do not sunbathe, swim, take a hot bath, or use a sauna or whirlpool bath for 24 hours. If a severe reaction occurs, apply cool compresses and consult your physician. Occasionally ingrown hairs may be present after waxing: • Recommend client use a scrub or body brush daily before bathing. • Body brush is best used dry on dry skin, massaging in an upward circular motion. • Follow with an application of moisturizer.

Summary Waxing is an effective method for removal of superfluous hair. This service can be very profitable in the salon. A cosmetologist or esthetician, who is efficient and thorough at waxing, will be rewarded with a loyal clientele.

1131733_S-0806SWAX.indd31733_S-0806SWAX.indd Sec110Sec110 112/9/042/9/04 66:54:34:54:34 AAMM 7. Color Terminology and Theory Contents Primary Colors Secondary Colors Tertiary Colors Color Wheel Double Color Cone Color Terminology What Colors Do Color Temperatures Color Schemes Basic Principles of Color Selection

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1131733_S-0807COLR.indd31733_S-0807COLR.indd SSec11ec11 112/9/042/9/04 66:53:53:53:53 AAMM COLOR TERMINOLOGY AND THEORY

Objectives Yellow After completing this lesson, you will be able to identify the basic principles and terminology of color theory.

Overview Selecting and combining colors to be used is an essential Blue Red part of an artistic make-up application. By studying the basic principles of color theory, you will have greater skill with color selection and expand your range of color Primary colors combinations.

Y Preparation For this lesson you will need: Green Orange • Standard setup (see Module 3, Lesson 3: Preparing Your Station) • Water colors B R

Violet Primary Colors Secondary colors The primary colors are red, yellow, and blue. They are the colors that cannot be achieved by mixing other colors together. They are strong, bold colors. All additional colors are created from these three primary colors.

Secondary Colors Secondary colors are created by mixing equal amounts of two primary colors: • Red + yellow = orange • Blue + red = violet • Yellow + blue = green

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Tertiary Colors Yellow Y Yellow Green Orange Tertiary colors are created by mixing equal amounts of a GOprimary color and a secondary color:

Blue Red Green Orange • Red + orange = red orange • Blue + green = turquoise (blue green) B R • Yellow + green = chartreuse (yellow green) Blue Red Violet V Violet Color Wheel Tertiary colors This color wheel illustrates primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.

Yellow Yellow Yellow Green Orange Double Color Cone Green Orange The color wheel becomes three dimensional when white Blue Red Green Neutral Orange and black are added.

Blue Red

COOLBlue Red WARM Violet Violet Violet

Color wheel

White

Grey

Black

Double color cone

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Color Terminology White Hue: Color as we have identified it, the name of the color: Tints • Example: red, green, violet, etc. Tint: The degree to which a color is mixed with white: Grey Tones Hue • The brightness of a color Shades • Example: pastel pink is a tint of red Tone: The degree to which a color is mixed with gray: Black • The quality of a color Color triangle • Example: dusty rose is a tone of red Shade: The degree to which a color is mixed with black: • The darkness of a color • Example: burgundy is a shade of red Intensity: Brightness or dullness of a color: • Example: bright red in satin is more intense than bright red in wool Value: Lightness or darkness of a color:

Examples: Color triangle example • Pastel pink (light red) • Rose (medium red) • Burgundy (dark red)

What Colors Do Light/bright colors emphasize, advance, and make an area appear larger. Dark/dull colors minimize, recede, make an area appear smaller. This is a basic rule in make-up. Follow it when doing corrective work.

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Color Temperatures Warm tones refer to colors with yellow or golden to orange undertones (colors seen in a flame or sunset). For example: • Gold • Brown • Peach • Ivory • Bronze • Orange/red Cool tones refer to colors with blue and green undertones (colors seen in water). For example: • Blue • Violet • Red violet • Certain pinks • Green • Teal • White Lipsticks are somewhat of an exception. Although the base of lip colors is always warm, i.e., red, pink, orange, if it contains blue it is said to be cooler. If it contains more yellow, it is said to be a warmer color. Some colors can be both warm or cool depending on how they are mixed. For example: • Green predominating in yellow • Green predominating in blue

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Color Schemes

Monochromatic The use of one hue with varying values: • Mono = one • Chroma = color This scheme can be used to create a look by using one color with varying intensity on the eyes, cheeks, and lips.

Complimentary Achieved by using two hues directly opposite on the color wheel: • Red to emphasize or bring out green • Orange to bring out blue eyes • Violet to bring out yellow, especially in green eyes This scheme is useful if you want to bring out a client’s eye color.

Analogous Achieved by using three hues next to each other on the color wheel. For example: • Yellow-green, green, blue-green, or • Blue-violet, violet, red/violet

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Basic Principles of Color Selection When selecting cosmetic colors, keep in mind: • Skin tone • Hair color • Eye color • Clothing color • Client’s color preferences To emphasize a person’s eye color, select the complimentary shadow color. For example: • Peach shadow on blue eyes • Violet on green eyes To accent eye color, select a shadow color that you may see specks of in the eye. For example: • Gold or olive green for brown eyes • Yellow for green eyes • Grey for blue eyes When the complexion is very ruddy, do not recommend red cosmetic or wardrobe colors. When the complexion is very sallow, do not recommend ash or yellow/green colors.

Summary Understanding different color schemes and basic color theory will help the make-up artist with color selection and combinations in all applications.

1131733_S-0807COLR.indd31733_S-0807COLR.indd SSec18ec18 112/9/042/9/04 66:53:55:53:55 AAMM 8. Eyebrow and Lash Tinting

Contents

Benefits

Contraindications to Tinting

Patch Test

Safety Precautions

Tinting Products and Services

Procedure for Lash Tinting

Procedure for Brow Tinting

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1131733_S-0808BROW.indd31733_S-0808BROW.indd SSec11ec11 112/8/042/8/04 10:03:3110:03:31 AMAM EYEBROW AND LASH TINTING

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to perform an eyebrow and lash tint.

Overview Eyebrow and lash tinting is becoming a popular service requested by clients. For clients with fair brows and lashes, tinting can have immediate, dramatic results. Our eyes are the most expressive part of the face, and the brows and lashes help to frame and emphasize the eyes. Tinting is used to enhance the general appearance, define and correct brow shape, and emphasize lashes with an intensified color.

Preparation For this lesson, you will need: • Standard setup (see Module 3, Lesson 3: Preparing Your Station) • Eye make-up remover • Model • Procedure handout • Lash tint • Towel • Cotton-tipped swab • Cape • Eyewash • Headwrap • Bowl of water • Disinfectant • 2 x 2 cotton pads

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Benefits Eyebrow and lash tinting gives definition to brows and lashes, and frames the eyes. It will not wash off immediately like mascara or brow pencil. It is good for brides, swimmers, and women who need to save time with morning make-up application. It is an easy service to promote in the “team service” system. Many men are interested in this service. Clients with poor eyesight will not have to struggle with lash and brow color. Clients with blonde or red hair will notice the greatest change, but it is also beneficial for clients with gray brows or lashes and tinted hair. Color will be even to the base of the hair where it is difficult to apply mascara. Tint will last 3–6 weeks and will gradually fade. Sun-tanning and daily swimming may lift color prematurely. When time is limited, brow and lash tinting can be performed: • At the time of facial, while mask is on • Before color cosmetic application • During the processing time of a hair color or permanent wave

Contraindications to Tinting Following are the contraindications to tinting: • Allergy or sensitivity to eye cosmetics • Sensitive eyes, so patch test first • History of allergy to peroxide • Sensitive skin • Any sign of infection, communicable disease, or inflammation in the area treated, including pink eye, stye, psoriasis, and eczema

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Patch Test If client has not been tinted previously, always perform a patch test first. If client insists on service without a patch test, have them sign a waiver (may vary depending on the laws in your state). 1. Mix a drop of tint and peroxide in a souffle cup and apply to clean skin behind client’s ear (small amount). 2. Wait 5-10 minutes (with tint on skin). 3. Remove with cotton pad and cleanser. The skin will be stained in this area, but will fade in a few days. 4. Wait 24 hours before performing service. Positive reaction: inflammation, itching, burning, and/or swelling.

Safety Precautions Always ask the client to remove contact lenses before tinting. Never leave the client once the tint has been applied. Use sterile eye wash (from first aid kit) immediately should tint get into the eyes.

Tinting Products and Services Tint in gel form: • Easy to use, most popular form • Vegetable dye • Often comes in black, brown, and blue/black Tint in liquid form: • Two-step application process (first peroxide, and then tint)

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Procedure for Lash Tinting 1. Completely remove all make-up from the area to be tinted so that tint will adhere effectively. 2. Apply moisturizer to one side of pre-cut cotton pads and undereye area (cut to fit under lower lashes in half-moon shape). 3. Ask client to close eyes; they must remain closed. 4. Apply Solution #1 with cotton swab to lashes working down to base. Cover every hair and lightly press to cover bottom lashes. 5. Wait 3 minutes. If room temperature is cool, apply another 2 x 2 cotton pad over each eye to keep warm. 6. Apply Solution #2 in the same method as #1 making certain not to touch the skin. 7. Cover eyes again with 2 x 2 cotton pad. Wait 1 minute. 8. Remove pad and fold up the half-moon cotton pad under lower lashes to envelope the lashes. Press gently and slide off to outer corner of eye. 9. Use stain remover to remove any tint on eye area.

Tinting lashes

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Procedure for Brow Tinting 1. Remove brow make-up. 2. Apply Solution #1 using a cotton swab working first against the direction of hair growth and then with the direction of growth. 3. Wait 3 minutes. 4. Apply Solution #2 (being very careful not to touch the skin). Use brow brush to lift up hairs. First work in direction of hair growth, then against the hair growth. 5. If tint should contact the skin, remove with stain remover on cotton swab. 6. When desired color is reached, remove tint with damp cotton. 7. If tint should contact the skin, remove with stain remover on cotton swab.

Tinting brows

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Summary Now that you have become familiar with the possibilities, many of you would probably like to have your lashes, and maybe brows, tinted. Your clients will also be enthusiastic about this service. Brow and lash tinting is a great team service possibility in the salon, for men as well as women.

1131733_S-0808BROW.indd31733_S-0808BROW.indd SSec18ec18 112/8/042/8/04 10:03:3410:03:34 AMAM 1. Physiology of the Arm and Hand

Contents

Bones

Nerves

Muscles

Blood Supply

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0901phys31733_S-0901phys Sec11Sec11 112/7/042/7/04 11:30:02:30:02 PPMM PHYSIOLOGY OF THE ARM AND HAND

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will understand the body structures as they relate to a stimulating and relaxing manicure, massage.

Overview The manicurist must be aware of the structures and functions of body parts below the skin’s surface. Massaging the arm and hand is very relaxing for the client.

Bones Shoulder: One clavicle (collarbone), and one scapula (shoulder blade), are on each side of the shoulder form the shoulder. Upper arm: The humerus is the largest bone, located between the shoulder and the elbow. Forearm: There are two bones: • Ulna (the larger, longer bone) is located on the little finger side of the forearm. • Radius (the smaller, shorter bone), located on the thumb side of the forearm Wrist: Carpus, composed of 8 small irregular bones, Is held together by ligaments Palm: • Metacarpus is made up of five slender bones, called metacarpal, in the hand from the wrist to the digits. • Fingers or digits consist of three phalanges in each finger, and two in the thumb, totaling 14 bones.

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Nerves Ulnar: Supplies the little finger side of the arm and the palm. Radial: Supplies the arm and the back of the hand. Median: Supplies the arm and hand. Digital: Supplies all fingers

Muscles Deltoids: Triangular shaped muscles covering the shoulders. They lift and turn the arms. Biceps: Located in the front of the upper arms, they flex the elbows and turn the palms downward. Triceps: Located in the back of the upper arms, they extend the forearm forward. Pronators: Located on the underside of the forearms, they turn the hand inward so the palm faces downward. Supinators: Located in the forearms, they turn the hand outward and the palm upward. Flexors: Located in the forearm, they bend the wrist, draw the hand up and close the fingers. Extensors: Located in the forearm, they straighten the wrist and fingers. Adductors: Draw the fingers together. Abductors: Separate the fingers.

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Primary muscles of the arms

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Blood Supply Brachial artery: Comes from the aorta, splits into ulnar and radial arteries. Ulnar artery: Supplies the little finger side of the arm, forearm, and palm. Radial artery: Supplies the thumb and back of hand.

Summary Understanding the bones, muscle, nerves, and blood supply of the arm and hand helps you service your clients better.

Arteries of the arm and hand

1131733_S-0901phys31733_S-0901phys Sec16Sec16 112/7/042/7/04 11:30:03:30:03 PPMM 2. Nails and Their Structure

Contents

Function of the Nails

Nail Composition

Nail Growth

Nail Structure

Related Structures

Significance for the Salon Professional

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0902stru31733_S-0902stru SSec11ec11 112/7/042/7/04 11:30:31:30:31 PPMM NAILS AND THEIR STRUCTURE

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will understand nails and their structure.

Overview Beautiful nails add much to a well-groomed appearance. Their care begins by recognizing the structures that comprise and surround the nail. Associated structures include the: • Nail matrix • Three parts of the nail • Skin surrounding the nail Your understanding of nail structures is an important foundation for professional nail care services.

Function of the Nails The technical term for nails is the “onyx.” Their function is to protect the fingertips and toes.

Nail Composition Nails are hard, colorless appendages of the skin and contain no nerves or blood vessels. They are made up of a protein substance called keratin. This is the same substance found in a soft form in the skin; in the nails, keratin is hard. 18% of the nail plate is moisture.

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Nail Growth Many factors affect nail growth: • Age • Circulation • Health and nutrition • Endocrine disorders • Anemia • Stress • Toxic drugs • Injury to the nail matrix • The environment Nail position also affects growth: the thumb and large toenails grow slowest, and the nails in the dominant hand grow faster. Healthy nails grow at a rate of 1/8” per month. Total replacement time is four to six months for fingernails and nine months for toenails. Activities that promote growth are any type of motion that cause extra stimulation to the fingertips: • Massage • Finger tapping • Typing • Piano playing • Nail biting

Nail Structure Nails are made up of the following components: • Nail root: Originates in the epidermal layer of skin (the outermost layer).

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• Matrix, or transformation zone: Contains blood vessels, lymph cells, and nerves that provide nourishment for cell reproduction, produce nail cells, and control the rate of nail growth. It is a very sensitive part of the nail and if injured will produce nails with irregular growth or disorders. The matrix is located just below where the fingernail grows out of the finger. • Nail bed: Made up of the tissue found immediately underneath the nail. • Lunula: Connects the matrix to the nail bed. Shaped like a half moon, it is always present although it may sometimes be concealed by the cuticle. • Nail plate: The hardened visible portion of the nail. Although it is colorless, the underlying structure of the nail bed lends a pinkish color. It contains three layers: • An upper layer, which is moderately hard and formed in the nearest portion to the matrix. • A middle layer. • A third layer made of soft keratin.

Parts of the nail

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Cross-section of the fingertip

Related Structures Related structures include: • Perionychium: The skin that surrounds the entire nail. • Proximal nail fold: The deep fold of skin at the base of the nail where the nail root is embedded. • Eponychium: Immediately under the cuticle, it adheres to the nail plate. • Hyponychium: Found directly beneath the free edge. • Cuticle: A thin piece of skin that overlaps the nail at its base. It serves as protection to the matrix. • Nail walls: The curved folds of skin on either side of the nail plate. • Nail groove: Located between the nail walls and nail plate, it is the area upon which the nail growth is channeled.

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Significance for the Salon Professional Understanding the anatomy and growth process will help to promote professional advice and technical service to your clients. The ability to correct/prevent dry or brittle nails is related to understanding nail structure. The appearance of the nails can be indicators to the presence of disease.

Summary It’s important to know the parts of the nail, its structure, growth patterns, and related structures in order to provide the best nail care for your clients.

1131733_S-0902stru31733_S-0902stru SSec17ec17 112/7/042/7/04 11:30:32:30:32 PPMM 3. Nail Diseases and Disorders

Contents

Client Consultation

Irregularities of the Nails and Surrounding Skin

Nail Diseases

Significance for the Salon Professional

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0903disd.indd31733_S-0903disd.indd SSec11ec11 112/9/042/9/04 6:56:506:56:50 AMAM NAIL DISEASES AND DISORDERS

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to identify and understand the causes of diseases and disorders of the nail.

Overview Both nail diseases and irregularities of the nail and surrounding skin are called nail disorders. Depending on their type and severity, some irregularities of the nail and surrounding skin may be treated by a manicurist. Nail diseases are not treatable in the salon, but must be referred to the care of a physician. Some clients with nail diseases may receive manicure services, however. Some examples of nail disease symptoms are: • Pain • Swelling • Redness • Local fever • Throbbing This lesson will familiarize you with diseases and disorders of the nail.

Client Consultation This information is used in determining the cause of nail disorders: • Skin type/condition • Occupation • General health • Illness of 8–12 weeks • Medication, side effects • General abuse, chemical/mechanical • Nail care routine

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Irregularities of the Nails and Surrounding Skin

Onychorrhexis (Split Nails) Split nails are a condition in which the nail splits vertically, starting from the matrix or free edge. When nails are split from the matrix, the cause can be an: • Injury near the last finger joint Onychorrhexis (split nails) • Arthritic condition When nails are split at the free edge, the cause can be: • Environmental factors • Drying products When the skin and hair are dry, split nails can be a result of: • Hormonal problems • Poor circulation • Side effects of medications Treatments can improve split nail conditions. These treatments help to soften and moisturize the nail and surrounding skin. All manicure services include the use of essential composition. Recommend cotton-lined rubber gloves and avoidance of extremely hot water.

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Corrugations Corrugations are horizontal ridges along the nail, resulting from any of the following: • Illness • Any shock or trauma • Severe childhood illness • Pregnancy

• Arthritis Corrugations • Heredity Corrugations may disappear with the return of good health. Corrugations may be only on the left hand or two fingers, due to: • Poor circulation • Arthritis • Heart disease

Eggshell Nails

Eggshell nails are thin, white, and extremely fragile, usually Eggshell nail curving under at the free edge. Eggshell nails are usually the result of one of the following: • Chronic illness (systemic or nervous) • A general vitamin deficiency • A lack of keratin protein • Nail biting To treat this condition in the salon: • Treatments can improve this condition. • Avoid pressure and metal implements with treatments. • Recommend wearing cotton-lined rubber gloves and avoiding extremely hot water.

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Leuconychia (White Spots) White spots on the nail are commonly caused by injury of the matrix, causing an incomplete keratinization. White spots rarely appear on toenails, because they are protected by shoes. Formaldehyde may cause a chemical burn and break capillaries, creating a bubble between the nail plate and bed. White spots may also result from a deficiency of keratin, protein, or zinc. In this case, recommend that the client try a dietary supplement.

White Horizontal Bands White horizontal bands may result from: • Heavy metal or arsenic poisoning • Liver/kidney disorder They disappear as the nail grows out.

Beau’s Lines (Furrows) Beau’s lines are depressions in the nail that run horizontally across the nail. Beau’s lines may result from temporary malfunctions of the matrix during: • Illness • Fever • Premenstrual syndrome • Injury to the matrix

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Onychatrophia (Atrophied Nails) Atrophied nails are thin and fragile nails that have insufficient keratin protein, causing them to split easily and waste away. They may be dull in appearance, and may separate from the nail bed. They can result from: • Hereditary conditions • Injury • Disease • Diet • Drug use Depending on cause, this condition may correct itself. When treating atrophied nails: • Treatments can improve this condition. • Avoid pressure and metal implements with treatments. • Recommend wearing cotton-lined rubber gloves and avoiding extremely hot water.

Onychophagy (Bitten Nails) Severe to mild nail deformities may be a result of nail biting. A former nail biter’s nails often will grow out twice as long and thick due to over-stimulation from biting. To relieve bitten nails, regular manicures are greatly recommended, along with behavior modification. Daily essential composition treatments, used along with a polish maintenance routine, may also help. At least 3–6 months of weekly regular manicures are recommended prior to applying nail extensions (otherwise, nail biters may pick or pull them off).

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Spoon Nails Spoon nails are oversized nails that curve under the tip. This condition may be hereditary. If spoon nails are accompanied by cold hands or anemia, recommend a hemoglobin test.

Onychogryposis This condition involves increased, enlarged nail curvature; Pterygium (overgrown cuticles) the nail thickens and curves severely at the fingertip. The cause of onychogryposis is unknown; refer the client to a physician. Manicure services may be performed on clients with mild cases of onychogryposis. If the condition is severe, decline to provide service.

Pterygium (Overgrown Cuticles) Overgrown cuticles are forward over-growth of the cuticle, overlapping the nail as much as half an inch. Treatments and weekly manicures are strongly recommended. Gently push back the cuticle with a towel after bathing or showering. Do not use a cuticle nipper to remove overgrown cuticles because blood vessels may extend into the forward growth and can result in bleeding.

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Onychauxis (Hypertrophy) Hypertrophy is a thickening of the nails, especially toenails. It is usually caused by: • Improper fitting shoes • Untrimmed toenails Hypertrophy may be caused by: • Hereditary conditions • Systemic disorders • Fungal disorders (creating a local infection) • Psoriasis • Circulatory disorders To treat hypertrophy, thin the nail gradually with a cushion file, finishing with a buffer.

Agnails (Hangnails) Hangnails are splits in the cuticle that may or may not become infected. They can be caused by: • Drying environmental factors • Improper cuticle removal To treat hangnails, carefully remove the loose skin with cuticle nippers, and recommend regular essential composition treatments.

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Onchocryptosis (Ingrown Nails) Ingrown nails are when the nail grows into surrounding tissue. This may be caused by: • Improper fitting shoes • Incorrect trimming of nail Ingrown nails can cause extreme pain and serious problems if left untreated.

Onchocryptosis (ingrown nails) The treatment is to file the flat surface across the top of the nail and then cut a “V” in the free edge. In extreme cases, refer the client to a physician or podiatrist.

Pigmental Changes Nail plate discoloration will improve with good health or when an environmental cause is eliminated. Discoloration may also be improved with a light buffing if the discoloring is on the surface of the nail plate. Changes in the pigment, or color, of the nails and their possible causes are listed below. Black nails: • Vitamin B12 deficiency • Photographic developers • Psoriasis medications • Hair dyes • Fungal-related problems Brown nails: • Chronic bacteria paronychia • Fungal related problems Red-brown nails: • Acne preparations • Nail polishes that oxidize as they dry • Formaldehyde products

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Green nails: • Bacteria infection • Mold Blue nails: • Poor circulation • Heart disease Yellow nails: • Nicotine • Hair dyes • Formaldehyde products • Lack of a base coat • Psoriasis • Disorders of the lymph system White nails: • Protein deficiency • Liver or kidney disorder

Splinter Hemorrhages Splinter hemorrhages are tiny streaks of blood under the nail plate, usually near the free edge. Splinter hemorrhages will grow out with the nail, and are a result of: • A traumatic blow • May indicate liver disease • Trichinosis • Formaldehyde burning • Blood pressure medication

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Nail Diseases Onychosis is the technical term for nail disease. Do not service clients with any of these conditions; refer the client to a physician.

Onycholysis Onycholysis is the separation of the nail plate from the nail bed, beginning at the hyponichium. Do not apply artificial nails to clients with this disorder, as they could cause permanent damage. You can provide other manicure services, however. To correct the problem, refer the client to a plastic surgeon. Possible causes include: • Mechanical damage • Chemical damage from: • Overuse of primers • Nail glues • Allergies to nail products • Fungal disorders on fingernails and toenails • Bacterial infections • Psoriasis • Hypothyroid disease medications

Paronychia (Felon) Paronychia is an acute bacterial infection of the tissue surrounding the nail, accompanied by: • Redness • Swelling • Local fever and pain It is common in people whose hands are constantly in water and those who work with soil, plants, fruits, and vegetables. Do not service; refer the client to a physician.

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Tinea Ungium (Ringworm) Tinea Ungium refers to ringworm of the hand, which is highly contagious. Red patches or rings appear containing tiny blisters. When a nail has ringworm, it discolors, thickens severely, and wastes away. It may also develop white scaly patches (which can be scraped off) or yellow streaks under the nail plate. Do not service; refer the client to a physician.

Verruca (Warts) Warts found on the fingers and hands are caused by a viral infection. They are not a nail disorder, but may be contagious. Do not service; refer the client to a physician.

Onychia Onychia is a highly contagious inflammation of the matrix that may be accompanied by a local fever and pain. With onychia, the tissue at the base of the nail becomes: • Red • Swollen • Inflamed This condition may result from improperly sanitized equipment. Do not service; refer the client to a physician.

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Significance for the Salon Professional Healthy, attractive nails are smooth and free from any irregularities. Recognition of common diseases and disorders will allow you to care for your client professionally and safely.

Summary It’s important to be able to distinguish between nail irregularities and nail diseases and disorders. Irregularities can be treated in the salon. Diseases and disorders should be referred to a physician.

1131733_S-0903disd.indd31733_S-0903disd.indd SSec114ec114 112/9/042/9/04 6:56:546:56:54 AMAM 4. Preparing the Workstation

Contents

Supplies

Sanitation

Implements/Equipment

Cosmetics

Storage Cabinet/Dispense

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0904prep31733_S-0904prep SSec11ec11 112/7/042/7/04 11:31:16:31:16 PPMM PREPARING THE WORKSTATION

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to set up the workstation to ensure the necessary professional work environment to service clients.

Overview “Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance.” Your efficiency and effectiveness in providing a service depends on the environment in which you work. Your ease with the client requires a comfortable set-up. Nail care must be treated as a luxury by the manicurist, with all the special concerns that a luxury implies.

Workstation

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Supplies • Client card file (in the salon only) • Prescription pad • Business cards • 2 cloth towels or 6 paper towels • Cotton • Essential compositions • Skin toner • Nail dryer • Top coat • Base coat • Nail polish remover • Files/block buffers • Price list • Nail disinfectant • Lotion

Sanitation Immediately dispose of waste materials in a lined waste receptacle. Use clean paper towels for each client. Before each service: • Disinfect workstation with an acceptable disinfectant solution. • Disinfect implements, equipment, materials, and containers. • Arrange workstation. Once a day, disinfect and arrange shelves and drawers.

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Implements/Equipment Place sanitary implements/equipment to your right (if dominant hand is right). Keep equipment to a minimum; keep excess supplies in a workstation drawer or cabinet.

Cosmetics Place cosmetics to your right, in order of use (if dominant hand is right). Keep extra cosmetics and material to a minimum; keep excess supplies in a workstation drawer or cabinet. Keep all cosmetics labeled and in clear view of the client.

Storage Cabinet/Dispense Additional supplies not used on a regular basis must be kept here to maintain an efficient workstation: • Implements/equipment • Cosmetics/materials • Pedicure equipment • Artificial nail products • Nail art supplies • Client card file (in the salon) • Prescription pads • Business cards

Summary Your work environment is a reflection of your professionalism.

1131733_S-0904prep31733_S-0904prep SSec15ec15 112/7/042/7/04 11:31:17:31:17 PPMM 5. Materials, Cosmetics, and Equipment

Contents

Materials

Cosmetics

Equipment

Tools

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0905matr31733_S-0905matr SSec11ec11 112/7/042/7/04 11:33:08:33:08 PPMM MATERIALS, COSMETICS, & EQUIPMENT

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to identify the use, application, and proper handling of materials and cosmetics required to perform nail services.

Overview In this lesson, we will discuss the supplies that you use and must replace during a normal work day. These are the tools of your trade.

Preparation For this lesson you will need: • Client card file (for salon use) • Prescription pad • Business cards • Materials, cosmetics, equipment, and tools listed in this lesson.

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Materials Towels Use sanitized towels for each client. Keep them in a clean closed container, cabinet, or drawer.

Cotton Keep sterile cotton in a clean airtight container (dry sanitizer). Use it to remove oils and nail polish from the nail plate. Portion Cups Cups must be disposable. Use individual paper or glass to hold cosmetics.

Spatulas Use spatulas to remove cosmetics from containers or individual portion cups. Plastic spatulas are better for the environment because they can be sanitized and re-used. Wood spatulas must be disposed of after use.

Cosmetics Nail Polish Removers These contain organic solvents and are used to dissolve old polish from the nail plate. There are two types: • Non-acetone: Non-oily solvent, best used for all types of nail technician services. • Acetone: Best used for the removal of artificial nails or removal of nail tips.

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Nail Polish Nail polish is colored enamel that is applied to enhance the nail plate. There are two types of nail polish: • Formaldehyde: May yellow and dry surface of nail plate; some dermatological and/or allergic reactions may appear. Low-formaldehyde formulas are the most popular type. • Non-formaldehyde: Preferred type in today’s industry; adverse reactions are unknown. Nail Polish Thinner Thinner contains solvents used to thin old nail enamel when thickened. Only thin each bottle twice.

Base Coat Apply it to prevent the nail plate from staining. It also helps the polish to adhere to the nail.

Top Coat The top coat protects nail enamel and minimizes chipping or peeling. Apply it daily to provide the nail with a fresh manicured look.

Nail Dryer A nail dryer eliminates the tackiness of freshly applied nail enamel. It may be sprayed or brushed on, or it may be a machine. Even with a dryer, complete drying takes 24 hours.

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Nail Disinfectant Disinfectant is usually a form of soap or shampoo used in a finger bowl. Use it to disinfect and cleanse the nail plate of oils and bacteria.

Cuticle Conditioners This softens the skin and cuticles. Apply conditioner to the cuticle area with a cuticle pusher and massage it in with circular movements.

Essential Compositions These can remove red polishes at the nail base. They are an excellent massage cream (in combination with facial toner).

Skin Toner Toner relieves sensitive skin and can purify the skin’s surface. Apply it as a freshener and cooling skin tonic. Use it to soothe the skin.

Hydrating Lotion (Optional) Hydrating lotion usually contains lanolin, mineral, or other agents that seal moisture into the skin. Lotions are similar in composition to creams, though they possess a thinner consistency due to a higher water-to-oil ratio. They may contain emollients and humectants, which aid in moisturizing capabilities. Use hydrating lotion for arm, hand, leg, and foot massage. Use it only if toner or essential compositions are not used.

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Equipment Manicure Table The table has a lamp to provide adequate lighting. Create sufficient storage and display space with proper ventilation.

Chairs Adjust the nail technician’s chair to prevent poor posture. Finger bowl The client’s chair should be comfortable with back support and within easy reach of the manicure table.

Dry Sanitation Store implements and materials in a clean closed container, drawer, or cabinet, or under a clean towel.

Wet Disinfectant The container should hold enough disinfectant (approved solution) to submerge all items to be disinfected.

Finger Bowl Use it to soak the client’s fingertips for a manicure.

Foot Bath Use it to soak the client’s feet for a pedicure.

Tools Nail Files Use nail files to shape and smooth the free edge of the nail or artificial nail. Hold the nail file between your index and middle finger using your thumb for support. Nail files are available in different grains: coarse, medium, and fine. Spray them with disinfectant and air dry between services, and then store them in a clean closed container, drawer, or cabinet, or under a clean towel.

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Buffing Block Use a washable buffing block to smooth and polish nails. Hold it between your thumb and middle finger. After each client, spray it with disinfectant and air dry, and then store it in a clean closed container, drawer, or cabinet, or under a clean towel.

Cuticle Pusher Cuticle pusher The cuticle pusher can be plastic or metal. Hold it like a pencil. Use it to loosen the cuticle. Cover the cuticle pusher with cotton to clean under the free edge. Use it with polish remover to remove nail polish from cuticle area. Spray it with disinfectant after each use, and then store it in a clean closed container, drawer, or cabinet, or under a clean towel.

Cuticle Nipper Cuticle nipper (1/4 jaw) Use the W jaw (smaller) for trimming cuticles. Use the V jaw (large acrylic nipper) for clipping loose artificial nail product. Spray it with disinfectant after each use.

Cuticle nipper (1/2 jaw)

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Cuticle Scissors Use these scissors to cut pieces of material for mending or wrapping. Hold them with your index finger and thumb. After each use, wash with hot soapy water and spray with disinfectant.

Big Clipper Use these clippers to remove excess length of toenails, Cuticle scissors fingernails, and artificial nails. After each use, wash with hot soapy water and spray with disinfectant.

Toe Separators Use them to separate the toes while painting. After each use, wash with hot soapy water and soak in disinfectant, according to the manufacturer's directions.

Pumice Paddle Pumice paddle Use it to remove dead skin and calluses. Hold it like a brush. After each use, clean it with a nail brush and hot soapy water and soak in disinfectant according to the manufacturer's directions.

Nail Brush Use it to clean the nails and fingertips and to clean the pumice paddle. Hold it like a pencil, with brush toward fingertips. After each use, wash with hot soapy water and soak in disinfectant, according to the manufacturer's directions.

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Dappen Dish The dappen dish holds essential compositions. It also holds acrylic liquid and powder. After each use, soak in disinfectant according to the manufacturer's directions.

Summary

Dappen dish Familiarity with materials and cosmetics will develop with practice. Your selection of specific products may vary depending on salon policies and your future experience.

1131733_S-0905matr31733_S-0905matr SSec110ec110 112/7/042/7/04 11:33:10:33:10 PPMM 6. Nail Shape and Length

Contents

Nail Shape

Shaping the Free Edge

Nail Length

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0906shap.indd31733_S-0906shap.indd SSec11ec11 112/8/042/8/04 10:04:1910:04:19 AMAM NAIL SHAPE AND LENGTH

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to identify various nail shapes and proportions of the free edge.

Overview Traditionally, nail shape and length have been determined by fashion. Often nail design has been a statement of social status. Nail shape and length can draw attention to your hands, flatter your hand proportions, and affect the strength Square nail shape of your nails.

Nail Shape To craft the proper shape for your client, you must consider the shape of the base of the nail, shape of the hand, and the client’s activities and occupation, as well as the client’s wishes.

Square

The square shape tends to encourage the fastest nail Round nail shape growth because the nail is allowed to grow straight out at the nail groove area as nature intended. It is a strong nail shape because an impact on a square shape nail will evenly distribute all shock and is not likely to bend or crack. Square nails are the least likely to crack, chip, split, peel, or break.

Round Another strong nail shape is round. This shape is good for clients who want to avoid nail breakage and injury. The free edge is rounded, and filing is not performed into the sides of the nail groove area. Most women, with a little hesitancy, will agree to change their shape to square or round, if you explain the benefits.

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Oval Most women want oval nails, believing this will make their nails or hands appear slender. Most men and women do not have long slender fingers that would be proportionate to this shape. This nail shape tends to attract attention to the hands.

Pointed Oval nail shape Because of changes in fashion, pointed nails appear dated to many. It can be a challenge to convert the pointed nail client to other shapes. Pointed nails used to be a sign of social status. Pointed nails, like oval, attract attention to the hands. Also like oval nails, pointed nails have a tendency to crack, chip, split, peel, and break from filing in corners to achieve this shape.

Shaping the Free Edge Pointed nail shape Shape the free edge uniformly. To double-check consistency: • Shape all ten nails. • Look at the shape of the nails on both hands. • Turn the client’s hand and look at it the way you look at your own hand. This will provide a thorough cross check. Shape each free edge from the corner to the center; never use a seesaw motion as it puts undue pressure in the stress area and may cause a tear or hangnail, or it may cause the nail to peel.

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Nail Length Length should be proportionate to the nail bed. It should not be more than half the length of the natural nail bed. Excessive length will act as a lever causing mechanical damage or onycholysis, and may increase bacterial growth and mild nail deformity. Some clients prefer nails of consistent length. Advise the client of nail lengthening services if needed to achieve it.

Summary The benefits of nail shape and length should be part of the client’s education while performing your service. Healthy natural nail growth and the ability to maintain them are essential to your client’s satisfaction.

1131733_S-0906shap.indd31733_S-0906shap.indd SSec15ec15 112/8/042/8/04 10:04:2110:04:21 AMAM 7. Arm and Hand Massage

Contents

Arm and Hand Massage Procedure

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0907amas.indd31733_S-0907amas.indd SSec11ec11 112/8/042/8/04 110:10:050:10:05 AAMM ARM AND HAND MASSAGE

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to massage the arm and hand.

Overview Massage is an excellent method for relieving stress and for preventing the accumulation of tension in the body. Massage manipulations used in this lesson are circular or back and forth petrissage. The art of massage has been known and practiced for centuries. Offering the client a massage as part of any service helps to promote wellness in their lives.

Preparation For this lesson you will need: • Standard setup (see Module 3, Lesson 3: Preparing Your Station) • Skin toner • Essential compositions

Arm and Hand Massage Procedure

1. Apply Massage Lubricant 1. Apply skin toner. 2. Apply essential composition. Use enough product to lubricate hand and lower arm. • Apply the essential composition onto your hands first, and then to the client. Massage firmly but gently. • When opening the essential composition bottle, rest your hand quite lightly on the client’s hand. Rest client’s elbow on manicure table.

Note: From the time of essential composition application, do not break contact with the client’s hands.

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2. Massage Lower Arm (Wrist to Elbow) 1. Begin application at wrist (left hand first, then right). Position your hands with thumbs on top of the client’s wrist, with fingers underneath supporting the client’s arm. 2. Move back and forth with thumbs on the top of client’s arm. Progress with back and forth movements from wrist up to elbow. Pull down to wrist and repeat. Don’t break contact. Massaging lower arm 3. Repeat each massage movement twice.

3. Massage Wrist At this point, manipulation changes to a circular motion (as opposed to back and forth). 1. Perform manipulations on top of wrist, then under. Massage to a count of two on wrist top. 2. Reposition client’s hand to a higher elevation. 3. Massage to a count of two on underside of wrist with Massaging wrist circular movements. 4. Return client’s hand to a downward position.

Massaging back of wrist

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4. Massage Back of Hand (Wrist to Knuckles) 1. Support underside of client’s hand with fingers. 2. Begin at wrist and massage to the knuckles (phalanges). 3. Movement used is back and forth with thumbs on top of the hand. Progress with crisscross movements from wrist to knuckles. Pull back to wrist and repeat. 4. Repeat each massage movement twice.

Massaging back of hand 5. Massage Palm 1. Reposition client’s hand to a higher elevation. 2. Begin at wrist and massage to base of fingers. 3. Movement used is circular, working thumbs from the wrist to finger base, then back again. 4. Repeat each massage movement twice.

6. Massage Fingers 1. Perform the massage in the following order: • Thumb and pinky Massaging palm • Index and ring finger • Center finger and pinky 2. Work from the outside to the center. 3. Hold thumb and fingers securely and massage with thumbs to the fingertips, using circular movements. 4. Pull back to finger base and repeat. 5. Repeat each massage movement twice.

Massaging fingers

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7. Slide Off 1. Place one hand on top of arm at wrist, one hand under. 2. Slide to elbow with a firm motion. 3. Pull back down arm beyond fingertips, and slide off. 4. Repeat. 5. Repeat arm and hand massage on the client’s right side.

Summary Effective time management within the client consultation and service systems will allow you to spend extra time giving special attention to each client’s arm and hand massage, the most enjoyable part of the service.

1131733_S-0907amas.indd31733_S-0907amas.indd SSec16ec16 112/8/042/8/04 110:10:060:10:06 AAMM 8. Foot Massage

Contents

Foot Massage Procedure

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0908fmas31733_S-0908fmas SSec11ec11 112/7/042/7/04 11:32:51:32:51 PPMM FOOT MASSAGE

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to perform a foot massage according to the specified procedure.

Overview The feet are very sensitive areas on the body. When stress is a concern, foot massage is an effective way to release tension. Perform both circular, and back and forth (petrissage), massage movements. Massaging lower leg

Preparation For this lesson you will need: • Standard setup (see Module 3, Lesson 3: Preparing Your Station) • Skin toner • Essential compositions • Model

Foot Massage Procedure

1. Apply Massage Lubricant 1. Cover your lap with a towel. Client’s knee is bent. Steady his/her foot on your lap. 2. Apply skin toner. 3. Apply essential composition. Use enough product to lubricate foot and lower leg. 4. Lightly rub skin toner and compositions over the leg and foot. Apply skin toner when needed.

Note: From the time of essential composition application, do not break contact with the client. Massage is firm, but gentle.

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2. Massage Lower Leg (Ankle to Knee) 1. Massage behind ankle bone with fingers using circular movements; at the same time massage top of the client’s foot with your thumbs. 2. Progress from ankle using crisscross movements, working back and forth up to knee. Do not cross over the shin bone. 3. Pull down toward ankle with steady, firm, squeezing Massaging top of foot movement. 4. Repeat each massage movement twice.

3. Massage Top of Foot (Ankle to Toes) 1. Support underside of client’s foot with fingers. 2. Begin at the ankle and massage to the toes. Crisscross on top of client’s foot with thumbs. 3. Pull back from toes toward ankle and repeat. 4. Repeat each massage movement twice.

Massaging bottom of foot 4. Massage Bottom of Foot (Heel to Toes) 1. With your fingers, support foot in a flexed position. 2. Begin at heel and massage underside of foot with thumbs using back and forth movement. When you reach the toes, pull back to the heel and repeat.

5. Knead Foot 1. Hold foot with subordinate hand, keeping client’s knee straight. Knead bottom of foot with middle knuckles. 2. With your knuckles in a vertical position, perform a Kneading foot seesaw vertical movement. Work your knuckles from the heel of the foot toward the toes. 3. Adjust your hand to a horizontal position and work your knuckles down to the heel, using the same seesaw movement. 4. Repeat each movement twice.

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5. With your knuckles in a horizontal position, repeat the vertical movement from the heel of the foot toward the toes. 6. Adjust your hand to a vertical position and work your knuckles down to the heel using the same seesaw movement. 7. Repeat each movement twice.

6. Massage Toes Massaging toes 1. Perform the massage in the following order: • Large and small toes (outside toes) • Inner two toes • Center and small toes. This sequence relates directly to the sequence used in the arm and hand massage. 2. Use circular massage movement. 3. Manipulation progresses from the base of the toes to tips of the toes. Perform twice per toe. Slide off the toes to release tension. 4. Slide off large and small toes to release tension.

7. Slide Off 1. Place one hand on each side of the client’s leg (one at a time; don’t break contact). 2. Pull down to foot and off to release.

Summary Eighty percent of all Americans complain of foot pain and accept this as a fact of life. Make a difference for your client. We are in the business of promoting wellness as well as creating beauty.

1131733_S-0908fmas31733_S-0908fmas SSec15ec15 112/7/042/7/04 11:32:52:32:52 PPMM 9. Manicure Procedures

Contents

Stress-Relieving Manicure Procedure

Essential Manicure Procedure

Spa Manicure Procedure

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0909manp31733_S-0909manp SSec11ec11 112/7/042/7/04 11:32:15:32:15 PPMM MANICURE PROCEDURES

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to: • Perform a stress-relieving manicure • Perform an essential manicure • Perform a spa manicure

Overview There are several standard types of manicures performed in salons/spas: • Stress-relieving manicure • Essential manicure • Spa manicure It is important to learn the specific steps for performing each type of manicure so that a client receives the same professional manicure service no matter who performs it.

Preparation For this lesson you will need: • Standard setup (see Module 3, Lesson 3: Preparing Your Station) • 2 cloth towels or 6 paper towels • Warm water and antibacterial soap • Cotton • Nail dryer • Top coat • Base coat • Nail polish remover • Files/block buffers • Nail disinfectant • Toner, massage oil, and lotion

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Stress-Relieving Manicure Procedure 1. Prepare station. 2. Sanitize your hands and the client’s hands. 3. Apply a small amount of cuticle oil to cuticle area and massage. (This protects the skin from polish remover and prevents polish from staining.) 4. Remove polish. 5. Starting with the left hand, shape nails from corner to center. Place hand in bowl of warm water and antibacterial soap. Repeat on the right hand. 6. Starting with the left hand, apply cuticle remover to cuticles and massage gently. Push back cuticles and trim if necessary. Repeat on the right hand. 7. Starting with the left hand, apply toner and massage oil to hand and arm. Massage. Blot off excess with towel. Repeat on the right hand. 8. Starting with the left hand, apply lotion; massage into skin. Repeat on the right hand. 9. Clean under free edge. Remove oils from nail plate. 10. Apply base coat, 2 thin coats of polish, and a top coat. Review prescription pad. 11. Sanitize the area.

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Essential Manicure Procedure 1. Prepare the station. 2. Sanitize your hands and the client’s hands. 3. Apply a small amount of cuticle oil to cuticle area and massage. (This protects the skin from polish remover and prevents polish from staining.) 4. Remove polish. 5. Starting with the left hand, shape nails from corner to center. Using a cotton ball, apply exfoliator to skin of hand and lower arm (to elbow), including cuticle area. 6. Tone. Apply gentle skin cleanser to hand and arm— massage gently. Remove with warm towel from warming unit, working from elbow to hand. Repeat on the right hand. 7. Starting with the left hand, apply cuticle remover to cuticles and massage gently. Push back cuticles and trim if necessary. Repeat on the right hand. 8. Starting with the left hand, apply toner and massage oil to hand and arm. Massage. Blot off excess with towel. Repeat on the right hand. 9. Starting with the left hand, apply 2 teaspoons of a hydrating mask, mixed with 1 drop aroma, to hand and arm. Repeat on the right hand. 10. Allow client to sit for 5 minutes with mask applied to hands and arms. Remove with warm towel. 11. Dip hands in paraffin bath 3 times. Wrap in plastic, place mitts on, and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove. 12. Clean under free edge. Remove oils from nail plate. 13. Apply base coat, 2 thin coats polish, and top coat. Review prescription pad. 14. Sanitize the area.

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Spa Manicure Procedure 1. Prepare the station. 2. Sanitize your hands and the client’s hands. 3. Apply a small amount of cuticle oil to cuticle area and massage into skin. (This protects skin from polish remover and prevents polish from staining the skin.) 4. Remove polish. 5. Starting with the left hand, shape nails from corner to center. Place hand in manicure bowl containing warm water, antibacterial soap, and bath salts. Repeat on the right hand. 6. Tone. Starting with the left hand, apply cuticle remover to cuticles and massage into skin. Gently push back cuticles and trim if needed. Place V tsp. facial scrub in hand. Spray client's arm with toner and apply scrub to hands up to elbow—use light manipulations. Remove with moist towel from warming unit, working from elbow to hand. Repeat on the right hand. 7. Massage left and right arms with massage oil. 8. Apply mask to hands and forearms (up to the elbow). Let rest for 10 minutes. Remove mask with towel from warming unit. 9. Apply warm aroma towel to hands and let rest for 2 minutes. 10. Apply a thin layer of moisturizer. 11. Remove oils from nail plate. Apply base coat, 2 thin coats polish and a top coat. Review prescription pad. 12. Sanitize the area.

Summary Understanding the proper procedures for each type of manicure will help ensure your clients’ satisfaction.

1131733_S-0909manp31733_S-0909manp SSec16ec16 112/7/042/7/04 11:32:16:32:16 PPMM 10. Pedicure Procedures

Contents

Stress-Relieving Pedicure Procedure

Essential Pedicure Procedure

Spa Pedicure Procedure

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0910pedp31733_S-0910pedp Sec11Sec11 112/7/042/7/04 11:33:46:33:46 PPMM PEDICURE PROCEDURES

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to: • Perform a stress-relieving pedicure • Perform an essential pedicure • Perform a spa pedicure

Overview There are several standard types of pedicures performed in salons: • Stress-relieving pedicure • Essential pedicure • Spa pedicure It is important to learn the specific steps for performing each type of pedicure so that a client receives the same professional pedicure service no matter who performs it.

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Stress-Relieving Pedicure Procedure 1. Prepare the station. 2. Sanitize your hands and client’s feet. 3. Soak feet for 5 minutes in warm water with anti-bacterial soap. 4. Remove both feet from bath and dry thoroughly. Apply cuticle oil to cuticle and massage into skin. (This protects skin from polish remover and prevents polish from staining). Remove polish. 5. Starting with the left foot, trim and file toenails. 6. Apply cuticle remover to cuticles and massage gently. Push back cuticles and trim if needed. Apply gel cleanser to foot. Remove calluses with foot file. Rinse and dry thoroughly. 7. Repeat previous two steps on the right foot. 8. Starting wtih the left foot, apply toner and massage oil to foot and calf. Massage. Blot off excess with towel. Repeat on the right foot. 9. Starting with the left foot, apply lotion and massage into skin. Repeat on the right foot. 10. Clean under free edge. Remove oils from nail plate. 11. Apply toe separators. Apply base coat, 2 thin layers of polish and finish with top coat. Review prescription pad. 12. Sanitize the area.

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Essential Pedicure Procedure 1. Prepare the station. 2. Sanitize your hands and client’s feet. 3. Soak feet for 5 minutes in warm water with anti-bacterial soap. 4. Remove both feet from bath and dry thoroughly. Apply a small amount of cuticle oil to cuticle area and massage. (This protects skin from polish remover and prevents polish from staining.) Remove polish. 5. Starting with the left foot, trim and file toe nails. Using a cotton ball, apply exfoliant to foot (including cuticles) and lower leg (up to knee). Tone. Repeat on the right foot. 6. Starting on the left foot, apply cuticle remover to cuticles and massage gently. Push back cuticles and trim, if needed. Apply skin cleanser to foot and lower leg (up to knee). Remove calluses with foot file. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Repeat on the right foot. 7. Starting on the left foot, apply toner and massage oil to foot and lower leg. Massage. Blot off excess with towel. Repeat on the right foot. 8. Apply 2 teaspoons of hydrating mask, mixed with 1 drop aroma, to both feet and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Remove with warm towel. 9. Dip feet in paraffin bath 3 times, wrap in plastic, and place mitts on. Allow to sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove. 10. Clean under free edge. Remove oils from nail plate. 11. Apply base coat, 2 thin coats polish, and top coat. Review prescription pad. 12. Sanitize the area.

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Spa Pedicure Procedure 1. Prepare the station. 2. Sanitize your hands and client’s feet. 3. Prepare electric foot bath. Fill bath with warm water, antibacterial soap, and bath salts. Place feet in bath for 5 minutes. 4. Remove both feet from bath and dry thoroughly. Apply a small amount of cuticle oil to cuticle area and massage. (This protects skin from polish remover and prevents polish from staining.) Remove polish. 5. Starting on the left foot, trim and file nails. Spray toner on top of foot. Apply cuticle remover to cuticles and massage gently. Push back cuticles and trim if needed. Clean under free edge. 6. Place facial scrub in small cup. Apply scrub to feet and lower leg, using light manipulations to exfoliate skin. Use foot paddle on calluses. Place foot back in bath to rinse. Dry thoroughly. 7. Repeat previous two steps on the right foot. 8. Massage left and right feet / lower legs with massage oil. 9. Apply mask to feet and hands. Let rest 10 minutes. Change water in bath and rinse off mask. Towel dry. 10. Shape nails lightly again. 11. Apply warm aroma towel to feet and allow to rest for 2 minutes. 12. Apply a thin layer of moisturizer to both legs and feet. 13. Remove oils from nail plate. Apply toe separators. 14. Apply base coat, 2 thin coats polish, and a top coat. Review prescription pad. 15. Sanitize the area.

Summary Understanding the proper procedures for each type of pedicure will help ensure your clients’ satisfaction.

1131733_S-0910pedp31733_S-0910pedp Sec16Sec16 112/7/042/7/04 11:33:47:33:47 PPMM 11. Pressure Points

Contents

History

Benefits

How It Works

Working with Pressure Points

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

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Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to understand the theory and practice of working with pressure points.

Overview Working with pressure points involves the massage of specific areas of the hands and/or feet to relieve stress and pain in corresponding areas of the body.

History People have worked with pressure points for many centuries as a technique to relax or to reduce pain. This technique has been used by many cultures: Chinese, Egyptian, Asian, and is growing in popularity in today’s society.

Benefits Working with pressure points relieves stress and tension, improves blood circulation, and helps unblock nerve impulses to achieve better balance throughout our body. It is said that a little bit of stress is required to maintain certain biological organisms, but too much stress can cause pathological changes in the body.

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How It Works Working with pressure points stimulates the nerve endings that send signals up the spinal cord to the brain. The brain produces painkillers called endorphins. Therefore, working with pressure points stimulates the body’s own painkilling system. The nervous system releases painkillers from the brain into the blood stream to be distributed throughout the body. When pressure point work is done, the results and how long they last all depends on the individual. When the stress returns, usually the pain will also. It all depends on the person’s state of health. A healthy person may find relief with pressure points work. A person who has more chronic health problems may only find temporary relief. However, more sessions can be more relaxing, which can give longer periods of relief. Each part of our hand or foot corresponds to a part of our body. The bottom of the foot and palm of the hand relate to the front of our body. The tops of our feet and hands relate to the back side of our body. The body is divided into ten vertical zones—five on the right, five on the left. Zone one runs up and down the spine, down the arms and legs, ending at the thumb and big toe. The right hand or foot relates to the right side of the body, and the left hand or foot relates to the left side of the body. Sometimes working with pressure points will relieve the opposite side of the body due to the brain controlling that side.

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Working with Pressure Points Even after we have learned the techniques of working with pressure points, we should never diagnose, prescribe, or treat anyone medically. Although working with pressure points has been used in the medical field, it isn’t recognized as a medical treatment. It is a massage technique used in stress-reduction programs. When working with pressure points, some people may experience light-headedness or dizziness. This comes from the body overreacting to the additional release of toxins and poisons into the blood stream, which need to be cleansed by the kidneys and liver. Suggest drinking a large quantity of water after the massage. This will help flush impurities from the body’s system. If pressure points work is continued, lighten up the pressure of the massage. Crystals may be found when doing the massage. A feeling of sand or sugar under the skin is what you may experience. These are usually calcium deposits. They form in the blood and can restrict blood flow. They may be an indication that there is stress in the part of the hand or foot that corresponds with that part of the body. If pain is experienced when massaging any area, work around the tender area. Working with the pressure points may relieve the pain. If it does not diminish, the condition may be more serious and should be referred to a medical doctor.

Summary Working with pressure points is an ancient therapy used to promote relaxation and pain reduction through massage of the hands and feet. Massage of specific areas of the hands and feet is used to treat stress or pain in corresponding areas of the body.

1131733_S-0911rflx31733_S-0911rflx SSec15ec15 112/7/042/7/04 11:34:04:34:04 PPMM 12. Artificial Nails

Contents

Odorless Acrylic Nail Application

Procedure to Soak Off Nails

Emergency Nail Repairs

Weekly Maintenance

Changing Polish

Troubleshooting

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

1131733_S-0912artf31733_S-0912artf SSec11ec11 112/7/042/7/04 11:32:33:32:33 PPMM ARTIFICIAL NAILS

Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to apply and maintain acrylic and other types of artificial nails.

Overview Artificial nails in acrylic and other synthetics can provide a beautiful look desired by many clients. Proper application, care, and maintenance are essential to keep these nails looking their best. It’s important to learn the correct procedures for application and maintenance to ensure your client’s satisfaction.

Preparation For this lesson you will need: • Standard setup (see Module 3, Lesson 3: Preparing Your Station) • Polish remover • Fine file • Antiseptic • Pre-primer and primer • Acrylic liquid and powder • Polish

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Odorless Acrylic Nail Application

Preparation 1. Prepare station. 2. Sanitize your hands and the client’s hands. 3. Remove nail polish. 4. Push back cuticles. 5. Remove the shine from the surface of the natural nail with a fine file (rubbing with the grain, not across the natural nail). 6. Use a nail brush to remove dust completely. 7. Apply antiseptic.

For Sculptured Nails (Begin with Preparation steps 1–7.) 1. Apply paper or reusable forms. 2. Apply pre-primer. 3. Apply primer. 4. Apply acrylic liquid and powder. 5. Remove forms. 6. Remove all of tacky layer and shape. 6. Buff with block buffer. 7. Use fluffy or nail brush to remove dust completely. 8. Polish. 9. Review prescription pad. 10. Sanitize station.

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For Tips with Acrylic (Begin with Preparation steps 1–7.) 1. Size and apply tips. 2. Shape and blend tips flush with natural nails. 3. Use nail brush to remove dust completely. 4. Apply antiseptic. 5. Apply pre-primer to natural nail only. 6. Apply primer to natural nail only. 7. Apply acrylic liquid and powder. 8. Remove all of tacky layer and shape. 9. Buff with block buffer. 10. Use nail brush to remove dust completely. 11. Polish. 12. Review prescription pad. 13. Sanitize station.

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For Fills (Begin with Preparation steps 1–5.) 1. Use a file to blend old acrylic flush with natural nail around the cuticle area (avoid filling natural nail). 2. Remove the shine from the natural area with a fine file. 3. Use a nail brush to remove dust completely. 4. Apply antiseptic. 5. Apply pre-primer to natural nail only. 6. Apply primer to natural nail only. 7. Apply acrylic liquid and powder in new growth area (use corresponding powder color). 8. Remove all of tacky layer and shape. 9. Buff with block buffer. 10. Use nail brush to remove dust completely. 11. Polish. 12. Review prescription pad. 13. Sanitize station.

For Overlays (Begin with Preparation steps 1–7.) 1. Apply pre-primer to natural nail only. 2. Apply primer to natural nail only. 3. Apply acrylic liquid and powder. 4. Remove all of tacky layer. 5. Buff with block buffer. 6. Use nail brush to remove dust completely. 7. Polish. 8. Review prescription pad. 9. Sanitize station.

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Procedure to Soak Off Nails Never cut and pull off nails. This creates a lot of damage to the natural nail by pulling off layers. Always soak nails off with acetone polish remover. 1. Warm the polish remover by holding the bottle under warm water. 2. Pour remover in a glass container big enough for finger to be totally submerged in remover without overflowing. (File down build-up for quicker removal.) 3. Submerge finger(s) in container of remover and allow to soak for 5–10 minutes. (Keep towel over hand to hold in warmth and prevent client from lifting finger out to check it.) 4. Remove towel. Keeping finger(s) totally submerged in solution, use a cuticle stick and push off artificial nail from cuticle to free edge. Don’t submerge the cuticle stick or it may melt. (If nail is not totally loose, leave in solution additional 5–10 minutes.) 5. After artificial nail is removed, use soft buffer to smooth surface, and then prepare nail as usual for replacement or manicure to maintain natural nails.

Notes: • The general cost of this service is equal to the price of your fill-in. • By performing this service properly, your client will keep her natural nails in better shape. This will also prevent drying out of natural nail. • When the client chooses a natural service, use a nail strengthener to protect the natural nail.

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Weekly Maintenance 1. To push cuticles back gently, use the soft red rubber tip of a cuticle stick. 2. Re-apply the top coat to refresh the appearance of the polish.

Changing Polish 1. Apply essential composition to the nail and cuticle area. 2. Remove polish with non-acetone polish remover. 3. Apply two coats of polish and top coat. 4. Dip flat edge of cuticle stick into non-acetone polish remover and wipe off any polish applied to skin.

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Troubleshooting

Causes of Lifting

Improper Application • Too thick at cuticle • Acrylic on cuticle • Forgetting primer or bonding agent • Too much primer or bonding agent • Not removing shine from natural nail • Air bubbles under tips • Improper sizing of tips (some nail shapes are better sculptured) Mixing Products • Always use the same company’s primer, monomer and polymer. Using Oils or Lotions • Synthetics “stand” on skin and eventually seep under acrylic. Harsh Detergents or Chemicals • Is it spring cleaning time? • Does the client's work give them regular contact with harsh detergents or chemicals?

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Hands in Excessive Amounts of Water • Cosmetologist, waitress, dishwasher, swimmer, etc. • Wear gloves, but always use talc. Hands sweat in gloves. Give “breathing” periods. • Summer is the worst time. More humidity, perspiration, showering, swimming, etc. • The body is porous, acrylic is not. As the natural nail absorbs water, they swell. This constant expansion and shrinkage of the natural nail eventually causes lifting. Smoking During Application • Smoke contains tar, which is oil. We want to remove the shine, not add an extra layer. Medications • Hormones • Diabetic medications • Thyroid medications Excessive Filing • Friction and heat breaks down the molecules and weakens the nail, which leads to lifting and breakage. Excessive Pressure • Did she damage them in an accident? Individual Lifestyle • Typist, mother of four (or baby-sitter), “pops” soda cans, hands frequently in water, etc. • Diet-oily foods • Remember the old cliché: Your nails are jewels, not tools!

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Individual Traits • Extremely oily skin, on medication, “picks” at nails, etc. Tanning Beds • Not yet a documented cause but may lead to lifting. Length of Nail • Too long Pregnancy or Menopause • Change in hormones and/or diet Time • When was her last fill? Temperature • Cold hands • Too cold or too hot air temperature (ideal temperature is 70–80° F) • Cold (crystallized) or hot products (tip and glue remover may be warmed to speed the process) Age of Products • Products must be fresh. Nail adhesive has a six-month shelf life. Contamination • Always use clean, separate brushes, and dampen dishes. • Never pour remaining, unused portion of liquids back into original container. • Completely dust nail with a fluffy. Evaporation • Use liquids from fluid dispensers to prevent evaporation (not suggested for odorless monomer). • Always close caps tightly. Storage • Products must be stored out of direct sunlight or extreme temperatures.

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Causes of Yellowing in Artificial Nails • Impurities • One product not dry before starting the next one • Not cleaning brush at all • Overuse of primer around cuticle or on old acrylic • Swimming (chlorine) • Smoking • Tanning beds • Hair color (you need to wear gloves) • Liquid stored in fluid dispenser for longer than one week

Causes of Hair Falling Out of Brushes • Soaking in brush cleaner will dry the hair and make it brittle, also will loosen hairs. • Using cuticle sticks and other objects to clean acrylic lumps from brushes. • Using towels other than lint free to wipe brush, therefore causing clogging of hairs and clumping of acrylic in center of brush. Also, other towels of a coarser quality cause brush hairs to break off.

Summary Artificial nails can provide a beautiful look that many clients desire. Proper application, care, and maintenance are required for best results.

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Contents

Resumes

Steps in Writing a Resume

Action Verbs

Providing References

Resume Tips

Cover Letters

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

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Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to: • Write a professional resume that effectively communicates your career objectives and experience. • Write a simple, persuasive cover letter to stimulate the interest of potential salon/spa owners.

Overview A professional resume and a good cover letter can be effective tools for opening doors to new job opportunities. Learning to create both can help you start and maintain a successful career in a salon/spa.

Preparation For this lesson, you will need: • Writing materials • Samples of effective resumes

Resumes A resume is an advertisement of your professional qualifications. The primary purpose of a resume is to generate interviews with prospective salon/spa owners. A resume is a one- or two-page document that highlights your: • Career objectives: What kind of job do you want? • Educational background: Where did you go to school and when did you graduate? • Activities: In what other school or civic organizations have you participated? • Experience: What kind of work have you done in the past? • References: Who knows about your skills and character?

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Types of Resumes There are three basic types of resume formats to choose from: • Reverse chronological • Functional • Combination Most experts agree that a reverse chronological format is the most appropriate for the salon/spa professional. The resumes described in this lesson are all of that type. A reverse chronological resume has the most recent information listed first.

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Sample Resume

Jane Olson 315 West 24th Street Minneapolis, MN (612) 555-1123

Objective Stylist in a Contemporary Salon

Education Aveda Institute, Minneapolis, MN June, 2001

A.A., Normandale Community College Bloomington, MN May, 1997

Washburn High School, Minneapolis, MN 1995

Activities National Honor Society, Washburn HS Normandale Drama Club

Experience Cityscape Salon, Minneapolis, MN Stylist Assistant: June, 2001 – present Cleansed hair, formulated and applied hair color, assisted with permanent waves, and provided general support for three very busy stylists in a successful salon.

Metro Cafe, Minneapolis, MN Server: 1997-2001 Provided exceptional customer service in a fast-paced restaurant serving a diverse clientele. Was employee of the month three times in a two-year period.

References available upon request

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Steps in Writing a Resume

1. Gather information about your education and background Think about your school and work experience and list information about yourself. Be sure to include dates. From your list you will select the information most likely to interest a potential salon/spa owner. Be sure to list information about: • Your educational background • Your work experience (paid and unpaid) • References (personal and work-related)

2. Use a chronological resume format • List all information in order by the date it occurred. Always start with your most recent experience and work backward. That is, when describing work experience, list your most recent job first, then the next most recent, and so on. Do the same with schools you have attended. • The parts of the resume summarizing your education and work experience should include dates that account for all your time in the past few years. If possible, eliminate any time gaps.

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3. Include these components Although there are many ways to write an effective professional resume, one excellent format includes all these components in the order described here: Heading: State your full name, address and a phone number where you can be contacted. You may also include an e-mail address if you like to be contacted that way. Remember to check your e-mail regularly. Job Objective: Describe the job you want. You may list a specific position or include a general description of the type of position you want. Education: List the schools you have attended. Include all positive aspects of your academic career, including any academic awards or honors. Activities: Note any school and outside activities. Examples include student competition, Congress Festival, school show, and any related awards. Work Experience: List the jobs you’ve held and describe the work you did in those jobs. Be sure to list tasks that indicate responsibility, and describe any successful results of your work (increased revenue, greater customer satisfaction, etc.). Your work experience may include both paid and unpaid (volunteer) positions. References: References are people a salon/spa owner can contact to ask about your skills, experience, and character. In most cases, reference names are not included on the resume. Instead, write “Available upon request” under this heading.

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Action Verbs Your resume and cover letter will be more interesting if you use action verbs when you describe your work experience. Action verbs help convey your enthusiasm to a prospective employer. Here is a list of action verbs for you to choose from as you write your resume and cover letter. adapted debated invented recruited addressed defined judged reduced administered delegated led repaired advertised delivered lectured reported allocated demonstrated made policy reproduced analyzed designed managed researched appraised detected manipulated restored assessed developed mapped reviewed assigned directed mediated revised arranged discussed merchandised scanned bargained drew modified scheduled built edited motivated screened calculated educated negotiated serviced cared for encouraged operated served catered enforced ordered shaped challenged enlisted organized simplified changed evaluated performed sold clarified examined persuaded solved collaborated expedited planned spoke collected experimented prepared staged communicated explained prioritized summarized compared expressed problem-solved supervised compiled facilitated processed supported composed gathered programmed surveyed computed gave promoted systematized conducted graphed proofread tabulated constructed guided publicized talked contributed handled published taught controlled helped purchased tended cooperated hosted raised terminated coordinated identified reasoned trained counseled implemented recommended translated crafted initiated reconciled traveled created inspired recorded wrote critiqued interpreted

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Providing References • If a potential employer requests references, include them on a separate sheet. • Your reference sheet should include the person’s name, title, address, and phone number. • Be sure to get permission from each reference before including him or her on your reference sheet. • There are three types of references: • Academic: These are teachers and others who know about your school experience. • Professional/work: Supervisors or colleagues with whom you have worked. • Personal: People who know you on a social level and know your character and personality. • When listing more than one person in a reference category, always list the person with whom you have had the most recent association first.

Resume Tips • Keep your resume to two pages maximum. If you are just starting out, one page is usually long enough. • Use a good quality paper for final copies (paper with some rag content, rather than copier paper). You may want to consider post-consumer recycled paper and soy ink. • Make clear, sharp copies (digital copiers are usually clearest). • Proofread your resume and ask someone else to proofread it for you, too. Eliminate any typographical and grammatical errors. • A professional resume service can polish your resume. This polishing can range in price from fifty dollars up to several hundred dollars.

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Cover Letters A cover letter should accompany every resume. A cover letter is a simple persuasive letter designed to arouse a salon/spa owner’s interest and get him or her to read your resume. There are many effective styles and formats for cover letters. Most include these four main types of information: 1. Introduction 2. Personal information 3. Accomplishments 4. Closing

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Sample Cover Letter

September 2, 2001

Mary Mendez, Manager ABC Salon 123 North 3rd Street Minneapolis, MN 55401

Dear Ms. Mendez,

I am a recent graduate of the Aveda Institute. I have enclosed my resume for your review and would like to meet with you about a stylist position at your salon. The quality and enthusiasm that you put into your business is extremely motivating. It is important for me to work with goal-oriented team workers.

I am extremely interested in expanding my career in a successful contemporary salon and I know I could learn a lot from you. I consider myself an excellent salesperson, stylist, make-up artist, and leader. I have a strong interest in customer service, product retail sales, and marketing, along with the many activities required to be a successful stylist. My product knowledge, technical abilities, and communication skills would ably support you in satisfying clients and helping your business grow. With my enthusiasm, desire, and self-motivation, I would make an excellent contribution to your salon.

I will contact you next week to schedule an appropriate time to discuss your needs and my qualifications. If you have any questions about my resume, I can be reached at (612) 821-1123. Thank you for your consideration.

Sincerely,

Jane Olson

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Addressing a Cover Letter 1. Address the cover letter to the person who does the hiring for the position you want. 2. Be sure to use the correct name and title of the person you are addressing, and double-check the spelling. 3. Use the appropriate title of Mr. or Ms. 4. Address the person by his or her last name only. Avoid being overly friendly and don’t use a first name (for example, Mr. Smith, not Joe Smith or Mr. Joe Smith).

The Introduction 1. Explain that you are a recent graduate of Aveda Institute. 2. Explain that you would like to meet to talk about a position in his or her salon/spa or company. 3. Explain why you are interested in the position in a way that reflects well on the owner and on the salon/spa or company (for example, “I am motivated by the enthusiasm of the stylists in your salon/spa.”).

Personal Information and Accomplishments This paragraph tells about your experience and accomplishments, and explains why you would be a good fit for the position you are seeking. 1. Open this paragraph with a sentence that directly expresses your goals and desires as they relate to the position (for example, “My top priority is to work in a salon/spa that provides exceptional customer service.”). 2. Explain to the salon/spa owner why you want to work for his or her salon/spa or company. 3. Explain your philosophy of customer service. 4. Explain unique things about you, your skills, and your experience that you think would help this salon/spa owner reach his or her goals or meet needs in the salon/spa or company. 5. Include a brief description of your relevant abilities.

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6. Explain briefly any specialized talents that would benefit the owner’s salon/spa or company. 7. List any honors or awards you have won that relate to the position. 8. Refer the salon/spa owner to your resume for more details.

The Closing 1. Ask for an interview. Request an interview even if no job exists. 2. Indicate when you will call to set up an interview time. 3. Give a telephone number where you can be reached. 4. Thank the reader for considering you for the position. 5. Sign off in a professional manner.

Cover Letter Tips • Keep your cover letter to one page. • Appeal to the needs of the salon/spa or company by describing how you can help them meet their goals. • Try to make the content interesting to the reader. • Use a personalized cover letter that is specific to each salon/spa or company to which you apply. • Use the same type of paper for the cover letter as for the resume. • Use the same type font in the cover letter as in the resume. • Proofread the letter carefully for spelling, punctuation, and grammar and ask someone else to proof it, too. • Keep a copy of the letter in your files for reference. • Mail the letter so that it arrives later in the week when mail delivery is generally lighter. • Mark your calendar so you remember to call the owner when your letter says you will.

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Summary If you are looking for a job, create a resume that salon/spa owners can review. A resume is a good professional way to introduce yourself in a field that produces many new job seekers each year. Always prepare a persuasive cover letter to accompany your resume. The cover letter should convince the reader to look carefully at your resume. The resume should make the reader want to schedule an interview.

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Contents

Employment Applications

The Interview Process

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

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Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to: • Properly complete an employment application form • Present a professional image in an employment interview

Overview Meeting a potential employer is a critical step in the process of finding employment in a salon/spa. Filling out an employment application and interviewing are two aspects of that step. By following a few simple guidelines, you can use the interview process to your best advantage to gather as much information as possible about a potential employer and to put your best foot forward to get the job you want.

Preparation For this lesson, you will need: • Two pens • Pad of paper • Your resume • References, including names, titles, addresses, and phone numbers (be sure that your references know that you will give their names as references).

Employment Applications The employment application assists the employer in selecting and hiring the best applicant. It is very important that you fill out the employment application neatly and concisely. This section will review some basic guidelines for you to follow in preparing an application form.

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General Directions • Read the entire form before filling it out. Note any areas where space for answers is limited and you will need to keep your answers short.

Note: Notice whether you should fill in blanks above or below the lines. • Follow directions carefully. • Be accurate and neat. • If you make more than two errors, ask for a new form. • Do not rush. • Copy information from your resume. • Select and use words that you can spell. • If a question does not apply, write N/A (Not Applicable). Do not leave it blank. • If there is a question that seems illegal, draw a line through the answer space to indicate you have read the question. • There may be a question that seems illegal, such as questions relating to your age, ethnicity, or religion. If you find such a question, draw a line through the answer space to indicate you have read the question.

Salary Desired “Open” is an appropriate answer if you do not have a set figure in mind.

Work History • Copy from your resume. • Think carefully about your reasons for leaving previous jobs and respond as positively as possible. • Signing the statement of authorization allows the employer to check the accuracy of your facts, so answer all questions honestly.

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The Interview Process Interviewing with potential employers can be an intimidating process. But, if you are fully prepared and know what to expect, you will be less intimidated. By following the guidelines described here, you can present yourself as a professional. The goals are for you to “stand out” from all other applicants and to learn about and understand the salon/spa’s philosophy and policies.

Preparation for an Interview 1. Send a cover letter and resume to the person in the salon/spa who does the hiring. If you do not know the name of that person, call the salon/spa and ask for the appropriate person and the spelling of his or her name. 2. Schedule the interview. Here's a sample script for a phone call to schedule an interview: Salon/spa: ABC Salon, this is Mary. How may I help you? Applicant: Hi, this is Jane Olson. I sent my resume to your salon a few days ago. I'd like to speak to Mary Mendez, please. Salon/spa: That's me. Applicant: Hi, Mary. Have you had a chance to review my resume? Salon/spa: I sure have Jane. It looks great! Applicant: I'd like to come meet with you to interview for a position. Salon/spa: Yes, I'd definitely like to meet with you. Would you be able to come in on Friday? Applicant: Yes, Friday's good. Morning or afternoon?

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3. Most salons/spas will perform two interviews with applicants: • Informational: Question and answer • Technical: Practical application to demonstrate your skills—usually on a model you supply Both the informational and technical interviews can be performed on the same date. 4. Be prepared for the interview. Bring: • Copies of your resume and cover letter • Pens/pencils • Reference sheet • Tools for the technical interview Know the interviewer’s name and how to pronounce it.

Be on Time • Arrive a minimum of 10–15 minutes early.

Attire for an Interview Research the salon/spa to determine what other employees wear, or if there are dress code regulations. Dress fashionably, yet as an adult, and appear mature in attitude. Pay attention to detail in your clothing and accessories; be sure everything coordinates. Keep your attire simple. Avoid avant-garde clothing or being “overstated.” Make sure you’re comfortable in what you are wearing; this adds to your confidence. Your hair should be done tastefully. Its condition and the way it is worn can definitely influence “first impressions.” Make-up should be contemporary, yet simple. Avoid heavy or synthetic colognes/perfumes that may offend the interviewer.

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Tips in Interviewing As you wait for the interview, notice things in the salon/spa about which to ask questions. Develop rapport with the interviewer; try to get comfortable with one another. Nervousness is normal. Handle it, and don’t be embarrassed. Actually, nervousness is a sign that you are taking the interview seriously. Do not interrupt when the interviewer is speaking; listen, then answer. Ask for an explanation of any questions you don’t understand. Don’t try to be a comedian or an entertainer. Be self- confident, not over-confident.

Communicating with the Interviewer Pay attention to your nonverbal communication: • Maintain good physical posture. • Avoid nervous habits. • Maintain eye contact. • Have a firm handshake. • Be relaxed yet attentive in manner. • Don't invade the comfort zone of the interviewer. Sit at a reasonable distance (not too far or too close). Pay attention to your verbal communication: • Avoid using uncommon words and slang. • Avoid the use of “ah” or “umm.” • Do not over-sell yourself. • Watch your grammar. Pay attention to your voice: • Maintain a confident, pleasant tone of voice. • Speak in complete sentences. • Speak clearly (don’t mumble). • Relax your voice (try to avoid quivering). • Sound enthusiastic.

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Questions You May Ask an Employer The following are examples of good questions to ask a prospective employer about the salon/spa: • How long has the salon/spa been in business? • What is the company’s mission statement? • What are the long-term goals of your salon/spa? • What type of clientele do you have? • Who is your main competition? • Have you hired graduates from my school before? How have they performed? The following are examples of good questions to ask a prospective employer about the position and working conditions: • What services will I perform? • What are the hours and days of work? • What products do you carry? This refers to: • Shampoo/conditioner • Color/permanent waves/relaxers • Skin care and color cosmetics • What is your dress code? The following are examples of good questions to ask a prospective employer about the potential salary and benefits: • What type of training is required or offered? • What is your salary structure? • What is your retail sales commission structure and discount? • Could you give me an idea of what your top stylists earn? • What benefits does your salon/spa offer? • Do you have an in-salon education program? Would you describe it for me? • What are the options for my career path?

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Questions an Employer May Ask You Be prepared to answer the following types of questions from a potential employer: Questions about you: • Would you describe yourself as a morning person or more of a night owl? • What do you like to do in your spare time? • What would you say is your best feature? • How would you get to work (bus, car, walk)? Questions about your abilities: • What is your strongest/weakest skill in the salon? • How skilled are you at formulating hair color? • How would you describe your skills at cutting and styling long hair? • How do you feel about consulting with clients and educating them about retail products? Questions about your previous work experience: • In what other salons have you worked? • How long have you been in your current position? • What did you like best/least about your last job? • Why did you leave your last job? Questions about your school/education: • How long ago did you finish your training? • What kinds of continuing education have you had in the last few years? • How did you do in school? Questions about your career goals and plans: • What would you like to be doing 5 years from now? • Are you interested in owning your own salon someday? • Are you interested in salon management?

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Traits Employers Desire in an Employee The following are some traits or characteristics an employer may be looking for in you: • Good technical skills • Good communication skills • Good attendance/reliability • Commitment and enthusiasm • Adaptability to change, growth • A mature personality • Good grades

Factors to Consider for Technical/Practical Interviews • Have your models prepared: • The models should be well-dressed with appropriate make-up. • They should be open to the style you will do. (A model who exhibits a dislike of your completed work is embarrassing.) • Brief your model on how you prefer him or her to act (for example, a quiet model – no talking). • Have the model’s hair colored appropriately beforehand, if desired. • Hair stylists should come prepared with all of their tools. They shouldn't need to borrow anything from the interviewer (cape, towel, shampoo, etc.). • In general, massage therapists, estheticians, and nail technicians do not bring their own equipment to a technical interview. • Demonstrate several techniques using different tools. Display your ability to work quickly but precisely. • Demonstrate a stress-relieving treatment. • Follow proper safety and sanitation practices. • Perform a color cosmetic finishing touch for a finished look.

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• Be aware of your service timing. • When finished with the service, present the finished model to the interviewer: • Describe the look you've created and your reasons for the technical approach you took. • Offer to let the interviewer "check" the work you've done. • Clean the station and equipment when finished.

Closing the Interview • Close the interview with a brief summary of the skills you have to offer and your interest in the position. • Thank the interviewer for his or her time. • Give the interviewer your home phone number and a copy of your references. • Shake hands. • Establish a date when you can expect a phone call for the results of the interview. • Send the interviewer a “thank you” card or note expressing your continuing interest in the position.

Summary The way you fill out the employment application can significantly aid you in getting a job. Be sure to follow the procedures we have described. Preparing for an interview beforehand will help you present yourself in the best possible light. Be sure to let the interviewer know you are very interested in the position.

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Contents

The Responsibilities of Employees and Owners

Compensation Plans

Withholding

Workers’ Compensation

Insurance

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

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Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to: • Describe the distinct responsibilities of the salon/spa owner and the employee as they work together to operate a successful business • Understand the varying methods of employee compensation used in salons/spas today • Understand that Social Security taxes will be deducted from your paycheck to provide for future retirement, survivor, and disability benefits • Understand what Workers’ Compensation is and its responsibilities to the salon/spa owner, employee, and employee’s dependents • Understand the benefits of health insurance

Overview The employee and owner must understand each other’s viewpoint and challenges to enjoy an uplifting and profitable relationship. The employee looks to the owner for a paycheck and benefits as well as a chance to grow in a stimulating work environment; the owner looks to the employee to provide services that generate a profit. The relationship between employee and owner is that of mutual respect and commitment to each other’s success.

Preparation For this lesson, you will need: • Pen • Pad of paper • Calculator (optional)

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The Responsibilities of Employees and Salon/ Spa Owners

Responsibilities of Employees • Abide by salon/spa policies. • Assist in keeping the salon/spa clean. Your work station should be professional in appearance at all times. • Be on time, both for work and for client appointments. • Be willing to accept daily challenges with a healthy, positive attitude. • Serve all your clients with excellence. Build your salon/ spa’s reputation as being the finest in service and attentiveness. • Continuously promote yourself and the salon/spa. • Initiate creative, productive ideas to stimulate growth for the salon/spa and for you. • Participate in all educational events (in and out of the salon/spa). • Be conscientious about the amount of product used; avoid excessive waste at all times. The profitability of the salon/spa directly affects your financial future. • Accept discipline and learn to change unproductive habits. • Be respectful of all equipment. It is very expensive to provide and maintain equipment. • Keep the salon/spa looking its best. The better the salon/ spa looks, the higher service prices it can charge and the higher your potential income. • Present a well groomed, fashionable appearance in dress, hairstyle, and make-up. Men should be neatly shaven. • Communicate with both associates and clients in a positive, uplifting, and service-oriented way.

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Responsibilities of Salon/Spa Owners • Provide a safe, clean working environment. • Provide quality equipment and products. • Keep service prices in line with the salon/spa's market and market location (not overpriced or underpriced). • Keep the pay scale in line with the cost of salon/spa operation. • Keep the salon/spa image up to date and attractive. • Provide the staff with training on products and new looks. • Be receptive to new ideas and suggestions from employees. • Perform regularly-scheduled reviews with employees. • Conduct staff meetings and consider honestly all employee feedback and suggestions. • Get staff involved with promotions (shows, cut-a-thons, etc.). • Promote teamwork. • Run the salon/spa as a business (that is, make enough profit to continue to operate). • Offer benefits in line with the cost of salon/spa operation. Benefits may include: • Guaranteed weekly salary • Paid vacation • Education investment • Assistance with insurance • Special pricing on club memberships, products, etc. • Incentive programs to stimulate motivation and income • Creative team involvement

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Compensation Plans There are two basic types of compensation systems used in salons/spas today: • Guarantee with a set commission (state-required minimum wage plus a flat percentage of service income), such as a 45% commission on all services • Guarantee with a sliding commission (state-required minimum wage plus a varying percentage of service income) A few salons/spas pay a fixed salary (the same amount every pay period). In these, employees receive periodic raises like salaried employees in any other business. The raises are based on the increase in service and sales income the employee produces, as well as on client retention and the employee's ability to function as a member of the team.

Service Income Service income is the dollar amount you have produced for salon/spa services you have performed.

Example: Calculating Service Income Suppose that in a one-week period you did 6 technical services at $120.00 each and 54 haircuts at $45.00 each. Your service income would total (6 x $120) + (54 x $45) = $3,150.00. Note that these prices reflect the income for an experienced stylist. A beginning stylist will work to build up to this price level.

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Salon Charges Most salons/spas deduct a service charge or salon charge from the charge for each service prior to totaling the stylist's service income. The charge may be a flat dollar amount or a percentage of the service cost. The service provider's commission is calculated after deducting the service or salon charges. Service or salon charges help offset the costs of: • Laundry • Professional product use • Client amenities • Marketing • New client recruitment Examples: Permanent wave service: ...... $120.00 Salon charge: ...... $7.50 Net service income ($120 – $7.50): ...... $112.50 45% commission on $112.50: ...... $50.63 or . . . Haircut ...... $45.00 Salon charge: ...... $5.00 Net service income ($45 – $5.00): ...... $40.00 40% commission on $40 (before taxes): ...... $16.00

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Guarantee A salon/spa owner is required to pay you a minimum wage amount (determined by the state in which you work). This is called your guarantee. The salon/spa guarantees that you will be paid at least this amount. Contact the Department of Labor in the state in which you work for specific regulations. In most salons/spas, you have the opportunity to earn more than the guarantee if your commission on service income exceeds your guaranteed amount. So once you have reached your guarantee, the more your service income, the more you make.

Guarantee with a Set Commission In a set commission salary plan, your salary is determined by multiplying your service income by a set commission. By “set commission” we mean that the commission percentage is the same no matter how much service income you produce. Because there is a guarantee, your gross salary will never be less than a fixed guaranteed amount (your guarantee). Example: Suppose that your weekly guarantee is $250.00 and that your salon/spa pays a 45% commission. Suppose also that your salon deducts a service charge of 5% on all service income before calculating your commission. First of all, you will never earn less than $250 in a week because of your guarantee. Suppose that in one week you have service income of $585.00. The salon deducts a 5% service charge to get the amount on which your commission is calculated: $555.75. A commission of 45% on this amount gives $555.75 x .45 = $250.09. So, with service income of $585, you earn just a little bit more than your guarantee. Therefore, whenever your service income exceeds $585, you earn more than your guarantee.

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Once you have surpassed your guarantee, the larger your service income, the more you earn. If your guarantee is $250 and the service charge is 5%, if you have service income of $800.00 one week, you will earn ($800 - $40) x .45 = $342. Salaries and commissions can vary depending on the employer's salary plan. Geographic locations also influence compensation plans.

Guarantee with a Sliding Commission In this salary plan, individual salons/spas set up a program in which employees’ commission rates increase on a sliding scale. The higher the service income, the higher the commission percentage paid. This system can motivate employees to set service income goals that enable them to earn more. Depending on the salon/spa’s particular plan, the increase in commission percentage can be achieved if an employee increases one or more of: • Volume (number of clients) • Retention rate (number of clients requesting him or her for services) • New client recruitment • Service income • Team services promoted or performed Different salons/spas use different sliding commission scales for their programs. Inquire about what the prospective owner offers. Whatever the specific sliding scale, the employee is paid at least the guarantee. When service income moves above the guarantee level (which should happen quickly), the employee is paid according to the sliding commission scale.

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Salary Plan Factors When beginning in a salon/spa it is important for the employee and the owner to have a clear understanding and agreement on the employee’s salary plan. It is good business for employees to set their own salary goals. Plan how much service income you will need hourly, daily, weekly, and monthly in order to achieve a yearly goal. Your salary, or gross pay, is the amount of your pay before any deductions. The amount of pay after any deductions is called your net pay. It's a good idea for each stylist to set goals for service income, retail sales, retention, new clients, and team selling on a daily or weekly basis. Each day or week, compare your goals to what you actually achieve. This inventory will help you stay on track with your income goals.

Inventory Table You can use a table like this one to keep track of your income goals on a weekly basis.

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Withholding The law requires owners to withhold the following amounts from your gross pay: • Federal Withholding Tax • Social Security and Medicare Tax (FICA) • State Withholding Tax (in most states) The total of all deductions usually amounts to 20–30% of your gross pay. Other possible deductions (not always required by law) include: • Medical insurance • Dental insurance • Education costs

Social Security Benefits and Responsibilities Social Security is designed to replace part of the income you and your family lose when you: • Retire • Become severely disabled • Die Social Security taxes are a regular deduction from your paycheck. The owner of your salon/spa will automatically pay the deducted Social Security taxes to the United States government. The Social Security deduction is commonly listed as “FICA” (Federal Insurance Compensation Act) on your paycheck stub.

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Your Social Security Taxes You and the owner of your salon/spa each pay an equal share of your Social Security taxes. Your part is deducted from your paycheck. The owner pays his or her part on top of that. If you are self-employed, you pay Social Security taxes at a rate twice the employee rate. Contact the Social Security Administration (in the white pages of your phone book) for the current amount or percentage that should be deducted from your pay.

What You Receive for Your Social Security Taxes

Retirement Benefits Depending on the date of your birth, at age 62 or later you can receive reduced Social Security retirement benefits. At the age of 65 or later you are eligible for full Social Security retirement benefits. The amount of your benefit payments depends on how old you are when you apply, and your lifetime earnings on which you paid Social Security taxes.

Survivor’s Benefits Social Security survivor’s benefits are paid to: • Widows or widowers at age 60; at age 50 if disabled; or at any age if they have responsibility for a child who is under age 16. • Surviving children under the age of 18; to age 19 if in high school; or at any age if they are disabled. • Parents of a worker who dies, if the parents are 62 or older and were dependent on the worker.

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Disability Benefits Disability is a condition that prevents someone from doing his or her previous work. If you have worked long enough under Social Security, in most cases, you can count on a continuing income for yourself and your family if you become disabled. That income may be substantially lower than your working income.

Medicare Part of the FICA taxes withheld from your pay are for Medicare. • Depending on your date of birth, at age 65 or older you will become eligible for Medicare, which pays some medical expenses. • If you have been receiving disability benefits for two years, you are eligible for Medicare. • If you have permanent kidney failure, you are eligible for Medicare.

Social Security Cannot Do It All Social Security is a good program for you and your family. However, it should not be the only source of disability or survivor’s coverage for you and your family and should not be your only source of income when you retire. Social Security should serve as a foundation upon which you can build a total package of protection. Ideally, it should be supplemented with pensions, savings, insurance, 401k, IRA plans, and other investments.

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When to Contact Social Security You should contact the Social Security Administration: • If you do not have a Social Security number. • Every few years to get a copy of your earnings upon which Social Security taxes were paid to check the accuracy of their records. • If you are unable to work because of an illness or injury expected to last a year or longer. • If you are 62 or older and plan to retire. • If you are within 3 months of age 65, even if you do not plan to retire. • If someone in your immediate family dies.

Workers’ Compensation If and when you are injured at work, you need to be aware of the owner’s obligations to you and your dependents (financially and medically). In most states, most salon/spa owners are required by law to carry Workers’ Compensation insurance. Know your rights.

What Is Workers’ Compensation? Workers’ Compensation insurance provides coverage for employees for any illness or disease resulting from work or any injury that happens on the job.

Exceptions Some injuries or illnesses are not covered by Workers’ Compensation. These include self-inflicted injuries or injuries resulting from intoxication, or being under the influence of a controlled substance.

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Who Is Covered by Workers’ Compensation? Almost all employees, full and part-time, are covered by Workers’ Compensation, but there are a few exceptions. People not covered by Workers’ Compensation include unpaid volunteers, household and casual workers, some employees of family farms and corporations, and some close relatives of the owner.

What Do I Do When I Am Injured? 1. All injuries or disease should be reported immediately to the person in authority (a supervisor) to ensure prompt medical attention. Benefits can be delayed or denied if injuries are not reported promptly. 2. After receiving notice of injury, the owner’s insurance company files a first report of injury with the Labor Department. The Labor Department then: • Sends a copy to you • Investigates the claim • Obtains medical reports • Determines if the injury or disease is work-related

What if the Claim Is Accepted? The insurance company or owner has 14 days from the notice of injury either to start weekly benefits or to deny the claim. The law does not require wage replacement for the first 3 days of disability.

What if I Am Permanently Injured? Workers’ Compensation insurance pays benefits if you suffer permanent injury. Awards are higher if the owner of your salon/spa does not offer you your old job or another job you can do after recovering.

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What Happens if the Worker Dies? Dependents of an employee who dies because of work- related injury or disease receive weekly benefits based upon number of dependents and the worker’s wage.

What if My Claim Is Denied? If the claim is denied, the insurance company will send you a notice of denial. If you object, first inform the owner’s insurance company why you disagree with its decision. If you’re not satisfied, contact a compensation specialist. If you’re still not satisfied, ask for a hearing before a compensation judge.

What Is Mediation? Mediation is an attempt to negotiate the settlement of a dispute with help from an impartial mediator. Mediation may be required to settle some Workers’ Compensation disputes.

Does the Owner of My Salon/Spa Have to Keep My Job Open? An owner is not required by law to keep a job open during the recuperation period. The law strongly encourages the owner to help you return to a suitable job, taking into account your injury or disability. Maintain contact with the owner of your salon/spa about your medical status while you are recuperating.

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Insurance The salon/spa you work for should carry adequate insurance coverage. That includes indemnity and liability coverage for the salon/spa and may include a health insurance plan in which employees can participate.

Health Insurance The owner of your salon/spa may offer a health insurance plan that provides security against your medical expenses in which you can participate. Then, if you are sick or injured, the health insurance helps pay your doctor or hospital bills and other medical expenses. You may pay the entire cost of this health insurance coverage through deductions from your pay, or the owner may pay some of the cost. Different health insurance plans pay for different levels of benefits and charge different rates. Before you accept a job in a salon/spa, find out the details of the health insurance coverage it offers, if any.

Indemnity and Liability Coverage The salon/spa you work for should also carry indemnity and liability insurance. Indemnity insurance provides coverage for loss or damage to property. For example, if salon/spa equipment is stolen or vandalized, indemnity insurance would pay for the loss. Liability insurance provides coverage for losses due to legal obligations. For example, liability coverage would provide protection in a lawsuit if a beauty product used in the salon/spa permanently damaged a client’s skin or scalp.

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Summary Both owners and employees must make a 100% effort to ensure salon/spa success. It is important when you are choosing employment that you understand the salon/spa’s compensation plan. With the information you have learned, you have enhanced your ability to discuss salary in a knowledgeable manner with future owners. It is important that you fully understand what paycheck deductions are for and how they affect you. If you want more information about Social Security, call the Social Security Administration. The phone number can be found in the white pages of the telephone book under “Federal Government Offices.” Workers’ Compensation insurance is beneficial to every employee and owner. Be sure that your place of employment is up-to-date with Workers’ Compensation insurance. Health insurance coverage is an important benefit that many salons/spas offer to employees. Many salons/spas offer additional benefits to employees, including product discounts, education, and other incentives.

Terms to Remember • Commission • Gross pay • Guarantee • Minimum wage • Net pay • Service income

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Contents

Beginning in the Salon/Spa

Retail Methods and Psychology

Client Recruitment and Retention

Coaching

Handling Client Complaints

Taking an Inner Inventory and Setting Goals

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

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Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to: • Be of greater service to your salon/spa as a new employee • Understand the importance of new client recruitment and describe some recruitment steps to take • Increase your income by developing self-coaching • Understand your end goal: client happiness and retention • Effectively handle a client complaint • Gauge the level of positive and negative elements in your life • Develop a plan for personal growth and success

Overview When you begin working in a new salon/spa, you want to get started on the right foot. You want to demonstrate that you are a valuable addition to the salon/spa’s team and that you will make a significant contribution to the salon/spa’s success. This module can help you develop your skills for doing just that.

Preparation For this lesson, you will need: • Pens or pencils • A pad of paper • Calculator (optional)

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Beginning in the Salon/Spa A new employee in the salon/spa may be: • An assistant, associate, or apprentice • A stylist, esthetician, or nail technician in a “new talents” or training salon/spa • A stylist in a smaller salon/spa or a salon/spa with lower- priced services As a new employee, it is your job to be of service to the salon/spa. “Down time” (time when you are not servicing a client) should be used effectively to convey the message that you are a quality employee and want to assist salon/spa operations. Whether your first few months are spent servicing clients or as an assistant, it is highly important that the time spent is productive to your education and beneficial to the salon/spa owner.

Don’t Just Stand There In your first few weeks on the job, if your supervisor gives you little direction, offer some suggestions for things that you might do. For example, you might ask: • “Would you like me to provide hand massages or other sensory experiences for clients?” • “Would you like me to answer the phone?” • “Can I dust the retail shelves?” • “Are there towels that need to be done?” You could also offer to participate in activities that are directly related to generating business for team members and the salon: • "Can I help with new client recruitment?" • "Would you like me to pass out business cards?" • "Are there stylist portfolios I could update?" • "Are there thank-you cards I could prepare and send?" • "Are there client call-backs you'd like me make?"

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It is better to do the wrong thing than to do nothing. Always perform general cleaning and salon/spa aesthetic maintenance when time permits.

Look Motivated Keep a journal of notes to yourself, things to recreate or do differently when you are “behind the chair.” Do not verbalize any “constructive” criticisms when you are new in a salon/spa. Observe and only offer suggestions after you are accepted and established. When you do offer suggestions, present them in a positive way. For example, you might introduce a suggestion by saying something like, “I think this is an opportunity we can take advantage of.”

Hours It is always important to get to work early (a minimum of 15 minutes before starting time). Stay late if something needs to be done. You train yourself every day of your life by the habits you cultivate. Get in the habit of being exceptional starting today.

Be Considerate Don’t wait to be asked to help. Offer your services if you see a need, for example with shampooing or rinsing. Offer beverages to clients. Cultivate your image as a supportive member of the salon/spa staff. Offer to provide sensory experiences for clients.

Express Yourself When you like something about your job, be sure to tell the salon/spa owners and your co-workers. Compliment colleagues on their work and clients on their new look.

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Develop Your Eyes Constantly scan the salon/spa and stations for things that need to be done, and do them.

Retail Methods and Psychology You will want to develop your skills as an advisor to consult with clients about products and services that will benefit them. Becoming a skilled advisor will help you increase your clients’ satisfaction, increase your retention, and reach your goals for professional success and earning potential. Providing clients with product consultation aids in client retention. Clients who purchase retail products in the salon/spa are two to three times more likely to return for future service than clients who do not. Clients who feel they have the deeper level of experience or commitment that product consultation can provide are more likely to return.

Steps in the Client Service Promotion and Product Education Process Following the process laid out in the time management wheel will lead you to these steps for promoting client services and educating clients about products: • Greeting the client • Establishing rapport • Asking probing questions • Explaining product benefits • Closing the sale • Confirming that the client has made a good choice As you perform these steps, you can think of yourself as a consultant with specialized knowledge rather than a “salesperson.”

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Service Providers as Consultants Professional consultants listen 80% of the time and talk 20%. The clients of stylists with strong retail skills don’t regard them as salespeople, but as advisors or educators, who help resolve their challenges.

Client Recruitment and Retention The recruitment of new clients is essential to the health of the salon/spa and to your own advancement. You should constantly think about ways to recruit new clients. As part of that process, you can: • Make everyone you meet a potential client. • Give three business cards to every client you service who is pleased with the service After receiving a service from you, the client should be fully pleased and wish to return to you again. We use the term “client retention” to talk about the building of long-term client relationships in which the client comes back to you again and again. Client retention and the referral of new clients mean salary advancement for you.

New Stylists/Technicians New stylists should receive the clients who have no preference for a specific stylist or technician to perform their service. Within 6 months, new stylists should begin to develop an established clientele. Then, stylists who have been hired even more recently will be booked with the clients who do not request a specific stylist. The stylists in the salon/spa who have been there longer should have: • Return clients • Referral clients

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Retention Rates Service providers who have a good return rate (80% and more of their clients return for subsequent visits) are said to have good retention. Service providers with less than a 70% client return rate have poor retention. People skills and technical skills are important in client retention. It is less costly to keep an existing client than to attract a new one. You can improve your retention rates by developing your skills to perform services on all hair textures and by being sensitive to the needs and desires of all your clients. Educating clients about hair care, make-up, skin care, and retail products also deepens the client relationship and improves client retention.

Tracking Clients can be tracked and recorded as: • New • Referral • Retention: A client who has visited a particular stylist more than three times • Alternate: A client who has visited the salon before, but has not seen that particular service provider

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Retention and Pay A stylist’s salary may increase in three ways: • The overall number of clients increases. • The stylist retains more existing clients and/or gets more clients who request him or her. • As the stylist gets busier, his or her prices increase. Some salons/spas structure their commission scales to reward stylists with good retention rates and numerous referrals. For example, a salon/spa might set commissions similar to the following: • New client: 35% • Referral client: 40–45% • Retention client: 40–45% A commission structure like this one is called a sliding scale. Most commonly, salons with sliding commission scales base the scale on service and retail sales volume. The higher the sales volume, the higher the commission rate. A salon/spa may also set different commission scales for estheticians, manicurists, stylists, and technicians (color/ permanent reformation). Tracking methods and pay scales will vary from one salon/spa to the next.

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Coaching It is the salon/spa's job to recruit clients and the stylist's job to retain the clients. Managers and coaches in the salon/spa should offer educational opportunities and one-on-one and group coaching to help develop the skills of stylists with poor client retention rates. The coach should try to determine the reason the stylist has poor client retention and work with him or her to develop retention skills. Employees need to learn to work well with all types of people. Educational programs or training that may help stylists improve their client services skills include: • Shows, advanced training, and seminars • Private coaching or training in a specific area of salon/spa practice that is appropriate to the employee • Counseling services • Community classes: • Time management • Stress management • Communication skills • Coaching techniques • Retailing • Team servicing • Mental and physical health Continuing education is an ongoing necessity for stylists. Every stylist and colorist should attend at least one advanced training event per year. Stylists should always encourage clients to schedule their next appointment as they are leaving. This can provide a major boost to retention rates.

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Handling Client Complaints Handling client complaints is one of the most difficult aspects of working with clients. Remember that your ability to successfully resolve these challenges is crucial to your success in the salon/spa. Good listening skills are key to the successful handling of client complaints. Listen carefully and then ask questions to clarify the client’s complaint. Always make sure the client feels understood before you suggest a strategy for resolving the complaint. Empathize with the client. Resolve the problem if you can. When service providers fail to resolve client complaints, it is typically because the service provider: • Avoids client complaints • Personalizes the complaint or makes the client "wrong" • Lacks the confidence to address the issue and resolve the challenge • Doesn't know what to do or say • Doesn't listen • Doesn't see complaints as a learning experience The four main steps in resolving customer complaints can be remembered by using the acronym "LAST": • L = Listen • A = Agree • S = Support • T = Take Action

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Taking an Inner Inventory and Setting Goals Any new beginning, when we start a new endeavor, presents a valuable opportunity to examine where we’re headed and to set goals. The time when we’re getting started in a new salon/spa is one of those times.

Taking an Inventory As you begin your professional life, it’s a good idea to take a look at your personal life. Becoming aware of the positive and negative aspects of your life right now helps you plan a course of action and make changes. When you enter the salon/spa, you will be more of an asset to yourself and to the salon/spa if your life is in balance. Practicing balance includes paying attention to your nutrition, rest, exercise, play, and work time. In order to understand ourselves, we must “step away from the mountain to see the mountain.” Having determined what needs to change, you can make a plan for the transformation. Creating an inner inventory helps to show who and where we are. To create an inner inventory: 1. Make two columns on paper. 2. In the left column, write things you can improve in your life, for example: • Places • People • Friends • Associates • Yourself • Responsibilities • Activities in which you participate 3. In the right column, write things you do like about your life, as well as your life desires, goals, and dreams. Write as much as you can; don’t hold back. Continue to add to the list over several weeks.

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Analyzing the Inventory Your personal strengths show up as what you like about yourself and others. Your fears, insecurities, and weaknesses show up as what you dislike about yourself and others. If you don’t like a particular activity or person, it can be because your own insecurities are involved somehow. For example: • If you dislike finishing the hair with a curling iron, perhaps your skills in this area need improvement. Practice and guidance could alleviate the dislike. • If you dislike a certain instructor/supervisor, perhaps the instructor/supervisor has “made you” feel unsure of yourself or your education/skills. Discussing the issue with him or her could help matters, and assure you that this instructor/supervisor has your best interests at heart. By recognizing and analyzing your likes and dislikes, you can face your strengths and weaknesses realistically.

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Set Goals Once you have analyzed your inner inventory, you probably have reached some conclusions about what you’d like to change in your life. Setting goals is the next step in making those changes. 1. Create a list titled “Things I want to accomplish,” both immediate and long-term. 2. Categorize your goals into three areas: • Lifework • Self • Relationships 3. Estimate how long it will take to reach each goal, whether it is weeks, months, or longer. 4. Create a book of goals (a simple notebook will do), and determine the following for each goal: • A date by which you will accomplish it • A plan of action to attain it • Names of others who have achieved similar objectives • Mentors or teachers who could advise and encourage you 5. Review your goals, and consider the following: • Some goals are short-term and others are long-term. • It’s important that short-term and long-term goals work together. Short-term goals should support the long-term goals. • To be effective, you must measure your progress against your goals each day. • As you grow and develop, your goals will change. Thus, goals need to be reviewed and updated regularly.

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Review Your Goals on a Daily Basis At the end of each day, do the following: • Review the day’s activities. • Determine whether you met your goals, and why (or why not). • Remind yourself of what must be done tomorrow, and set an action plan. • Seek out your mentor for advice, when needed.

Goal Setting Notes Committing to these goals will give your life direction, which will relieve stress and allow you to become healthier and enjoy life more. If you realize that you are not reaching your goals, do not give up or avoid the situation. Seek guidance from your mentors, and remember that you can only achieve true success with: • Patience • Research • Direction • Guidance • Passion • Commitment • Vision • Persistence

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Summary The time when you are a new service provider in the salon/spa is an especially critical time for all parties. You will come under greater scrutiny, and the image others have of you will be formed at this time. Make a positive first impression. The clients of a stylist with great retail skills don’t regard the stylist as a salesperson. The client thinks of that person as an educator or advisor, who solves his or her challenges. Being successful in retailing is contingent upon your commitment to self-development and to sharing your skills with others. The purpose of your work is to please salon/spa clients and to develop good client retention. A salon/spa owner cannot afford to have an empty chair. Paying close attention to related lessons as well as practicing people skills and technical skills will allow you to reach your objective. Client complaint handling is the most difficult area of client relations. It is also one of the most important skills to master.

Terms to Remember • Referral • Retention

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Contents

Types of Salons/Spas

Types of Ownership

Independent Salon/Spa Business Plan

Accounting

Learning More

Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

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Objectives After completing this lesson, you will be able to: • Understand the foundations of a business plan for starting an independent salon/spa that will be innovative in management, marketing, and service.

Overview There are many things to be considered when opening a salon/spa. Starting your own business requires extensive research, planning, and time. Owning a business is not for everyone. However, income possibilities are advanced for those who do. This lesson will help you prepare for independent salon/spa ownership.

Preparation For this lesson, you will need: • Pens or pencils • Pad of paper • Calculator (optional)

Types of Salons/Spas

Franchise Salons/Spas • An owner purchases the salon/spa concept from the franchiser. • Using the concept, the salon/spa offers moderately priced services. • Advertising is provided nationally or regionally. • Franchise fees allow the owner to use franchise promotions, name, management systems, and support.

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Chair Rental Salons/Spas Chair rental salons/spas are owned by an individual or individuals and rent out chairs or stations to individual stylists. Each stylist who rents a chair or station is responsible for running his or her own business: Legal regulations require that a chair rental salon/spa owner can exercise no control over the stylists’: • Work hours • Education • Dress code Chair rental salon/spa owners by law cannot require stylists who rent chairs to attend salon/spa meetings. Chair rental salons/spas can create many legal challenges for their owner(s). Proceed with caution in the creation of a chair rental salon/spa. Get all relevant legal information before establishing a chair rental business.

Independent Salons/Spas An independent salon/spa is owned by one or more people, is not affiliated with a chain, and has its own concept.

Types of Ownership There are three types of salon/spa ownership: • Sole proprietorship: Owned by one individual • Partnership: Owned by two or more people (without the sale of stock) • Corporation: Often a larger business, where stock exists and is owned by one or more people

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Independent Salon/Spa Business Plan An independent salon/spa needs a business plan. The business plan describes the goals of the salon/spa and how it will operate. It provides projections of key salon/spa financials for the near future. A business plan provides a basis for making decisions about salon/spa operations and will be required by banks or other investors if outside financing is needed. Most business plans for an independent salon/spa include discussions of the following topics: • Business objective • Services to be provided • Retail strategy • Target clientele • Staffing needs • Education Strategy • Price structure • Market competition analysis • Marketing strategy • Location analysis • Insurance needs • Salon/spa space • Equipment and furnishings • Financing • Cash flow projections Each topic is described below.

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Business Objective The business objective in a business plan describes the purpose behind making a business plan and the overall goals of the business. For example, the business plan for a new salon/spa might include a business objective like this: “To open a salon/spa that will be innovative in management, marketing, and service. The first salon/spa will be a base for future salons/ spas in this area.”

Services to Be Provided A business plan should describe the services your business plans to offer to clients. The services selected should be ones that match the needs of the clientele you hope to attract. Possible salon/spa services include: • Full service haircutting, coloring, styling, and related services • Waxing • Manicuring and nail extensions • Skin care services • Massage • Make-up and color cosmetic services • Hair extensions • Lash application

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Retail Strategy A business plan should also describe your retail strategy: what products you hope to sell to clients and how. In order to decide which retail items to offer, it’s a good idea to analyze your target clientele and their needs. Retail items offered for sale in a salon/spa may include: • All products that support the client in duplicating their salon experience at home • Bath items • Hair pieces • Environmental cleansing products • Coffee/teas • Massage compounds • Bath essences • Jewelry • Body care products

Target Clientele To effectively plan for the business of a new salon/spa, you need to have a clear idea of the type of clientele you hope to serve. That clientele information should be described in the business plan. Among other things, you will want to know the following basic things about your target clientele: • Average age (people between the ages of 22 and 35 spend more on their appearance than any other age group) • Career/job status • Lifestyle • Priorities

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Staffing Needs Your business plan needs to describe the staff (how many and with what types of skills) needed to operate the type of salon/spa you plan to open. You need to select a staff with the skills and abilities to provide the types of services you want to offer to the clientele you have targeted. Staff may include: • Recent school graduates (with few or no current clients) • Staff from other salons/spas (who will probably bring clients with them)

Education Strategy Your business plan should include an education strategy to make sure your staff continues to build new skills and refines existing ones. The education strategy should describe: • Types of continuing education desired • Who will provide the continuing education and where • A proposed education schedule for each category of salon employee • Projected costs and how they will be met

Price Structure You need to determine a price structure for the services you will offer. It may be a good idea to choose a structure in which the prices for a stylist/technician’s services are on a sliding scale. That is, prices escalate with client retention. The busier the stylist, the higher the service price should be. Prices will also vary depending on the cost of living in your city or town.

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Market Competition Analysis As you develop your business plan, you will want to know what salons/spas you will compete with to determine if the market is desirable. Information about your competition should be included in the business plan. That information should include names of competing salons/spas and information about the types of clients they serve.

Marketing Strategy Your business plan should include a strategy for marketing the salon to the clientele you want to reach. Marketing is especially important for a new salon without an established clientele. A marketing plan should include a budget and may include plans for: • Advertising (where, when, how often) • Discounts, coupons, or other promotions • Gifts or discounts for existing clients who refer others • Public relations plans, such as obtaining coverage in local or community newspapers or other media outlets • Special events to promote and publicize the salon

Location Analysis A business plan should describe the key factors to be considered in selecting a location for a new salon/spa. These factors include answers to the following questions: • What is the traffic flow at the location - walk-by and drive-by traffic? • Is the location visible? • What is the population of the area? • What are local zoning codes? • What parking is available? • What profitable businesses are in the area? • Is there room for expansion? Once a location is selected, an attorney should negotiate any lease for rental space.

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Insurance Needs Medical and legal services are expensive. If you are a salon/spa owner and a mishap or incident of negligence occurs in your salon/spa and you do not have proper insurance coverage, the effect could be financially devastating to your business. Common, everyday accidents can end up costing thousands of dollars. For these reasons, it’s especially important to get adequate insurance coverage when opening a new salon/spa. There are three primary categories of insurance coverage that are important to salons/spas: • Indemnity • Liability • Health Indemnity Insurance Indemnity insurance provides security against loss or damage to your property. Examples of loss and damage that can be covered by indemnity insurance include: • Robbery of your salon/spa in which much of your equipment is stolen • Vandalization of your salon/spa in which all of the windows and mirrors are broken • Fire that destroys your salon/spa Types of indemnity insurance are described below. Theft: Theft insurance is a type of indemnity insurance that provides security against unexplained disappearances of money or valuable possessions. Example: My Japanese scissors have mysteriously disappeared; they might be lost but I am assuming theft.

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Robbery: Robbery insurance is a type of indemnity insurance that provides security against losses that were forced upon you. Example: I was held at gunpoint while the robbers took everything. Burglary: Burglary insurance is a type of indemnity insurance that provides security against losses resulting from a break-in while the salon/spa is closed. Example: I came into the salon this morning and found the break room window wide open and all the cash had been stolen. Fire: Fire insurance is a type of indemnity insurance that provides security against losses resulting from a fire. Example: I came back from vacation to find that my entire spa had burned down. Equipment/Supply: Equipment/supply insurance is a type of indemnity insurance that provides security against damages to anything in the salon/ spa. Example: A child took a permanent magic marker and drew on all the furniture in the reception area.

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Liability Insurance Liability insurance provides security against losses from legal obligations. Examples of legal situations that can be covered by liability insurance include: • A client sues you because she slipped and fell and broke her ankle in your salon. • Your employee sues you because he cut himself on a cabinet door in your spa and cannot work. Types of liability insurance are described below. General Liability: General liability insurance provides security against legal and medical fees incurred by an accident in your salon/spa. Example: My client walked right into the mirrored wall and broke her nose. Malpractice: Malpractice insurance is a type of liability insurance that provides security against legal and medical fees incurred by misuse of a product or service that results in injury: Example: The chemical relaxer used in the salon damaged a client’s hair so it is growing back much thinner than it was before. The client’s lawyer will be contacting the salon. Workers’ Compensation: Workers’ Compensation insurance is a type of liability insurance that provides security against medical fees and wages for an employee who has been injured while working: Example: When a stylist broke her arm at work, she got paid while she was unable to work. Her medical bills were paid too.

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Health Insurance Health Insurance provides the employee security against medical fees. Health insurance may be provided to the employee as a paid benefit, or the employee may pay a partial or full share of health insurance costs. For example, first year employees pay 50% of the cost of their medical insurance. After the first year of employment, the spa pays the entire premium.

Finding Out More About Insurance You can call your state’s Department of Labor and Industry to check on which types of insurance a salon/spa is required to carry. Meet with an insurance agent to discuss any questions you may have.

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Salon/Spa Space There are several things to think about when selecting a space for a salon/spa. For example, you may have the option to place your salon/spa in a space where a salon/spa has previously been or to select an entirely new space. The costs of putting a salon/spa in a new space can be significantly higher than those for taking over the space of an existing salon/spa. If you’re thinking about moving into an existing salon/spa space, you’ll want to look into why the previous salon/spa tenant left the space. These issues should be considered and your conclusions described in your business plan. Some of the advantages to locating your salon/spa in a space where a salon/spa has previously been include the existence of these necessary features: • Dispensary space • Plumbing for shampoo bowls and other needs • Mirrors • Adequate ventilation Drawbacks of any space where a salon/spa has previously been should also be considered and may include: • Poor visibility • Little or no walk-by or drive-by traffic • Difficulty in getting to the location • Lack of parking • Existing co-tenants with a sub-standard image

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Equipment and Furnishings Because the equipment and furnishings inventory of a salon/spa often costs several thousand dollars, it must get careful consideration in the business plan. The build-out of stations, dryers, equipment, etc., is an especially large expense. The business plan should include a 5-year plan for future growth and expansion with an estimate of costs for any equipment and furnishings required for the expansion. If you expect to expand the square footage of your salon/spa in the future, be sure to choose salon/spa furnishings that will still be available in two years.

Financing You may need to borrow money to open a new salon/spa. Additional funds for your salon/spa may come from: • A bank • Community organizations • The federal government • City government These institutions may loan you from 25% to 75% of the money you’ll need to open a salon/spa. In any event, you will need funds to carry the salon/spa until it becomes profitable (operating cash for 6 to 12 months is usually recommended). In order to borrow money, the sources described here will require you to have: • An excellent credit history • A business plan containing much of the information described in this lesson • Month-by-month financial projections for the salon/spa for the next three years

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Cash Flow Projections As you develop your business plan, you will want to evaluate sources of money coming in and going out. The following are examples of the types of income and expenses you can expect for a typical salon/spa:

Income • Styling income • Stylist service charges • Additional services income (waxing, nail care, etc.) • Retail products and tools • Advertising charges (optional: may be assessed to stylists for clients brought in by salon/spa advertising) • Assistant charges (optional: may be assessed to the busiest stylists for assistants)

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Expenses • Stylist payroll • Assistant payroll (optional) • Receptionist payroll • Commission on sales of products and tools • Janitorial • Payroll tax expense (approximately 11% of payroll) • Employee benefits (approximately 3% of payroll for sick days, insurance, vacations, etc.) • Rent • Utilities (water, trash, electric) • Telephone • Depreciation • Advertising (will be larger the first year) • Beauty supplies (about 5% of gross, needed to service clients) • Laundry supplies • Insurance • Subscriptions • Owner’s draw (salary) • Miscellaneous (beverages, classes, videos, etc.)

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Accounting Running a business requires consistent and accurate bookkeeping. Without it, it’s difficult to tell how much money the salon/spa is making or what needs to be adjusted to avoid losses. An accountant can help you set up a bookkeeping system. Some bookkeeping records must be kept for a minimum of seven years: • Payroll records • Inventory records • Cancelled checks Daily sales slips/records and some other records can be kept for shorter periods. Again, an accountant can help you determine what does and does not need to be kept in storage.

Learning More The Salon Association (TSA) is an organization for salon/spa owners to help them improve their business success. It provides access to many support resources to assist in planning and operating salon/spa businesses. By joining TSA, new salon owners can get a step ahead in organizing their businesses. The TSA web site provides information about how to join and includes other useful salon information.

Summary Owning a salon/spa is not for everyone, but if you decide to own, you should research and plan every detail before you open the salon/spa. Gather information beforehand so that not all your lessons are learned the hard way. Most businesses that fail do so within the first year. Gathering information and creating a careful business plan can help you avoid pitfalls.

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Gaining Preparing Commitment Yourself and Client Your Greeting Finishing Station Touch

Consultation

Scheduled Service

Sensory Experience

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A Abdominal breathing. Breathing down into the lower lobes of the lungs. It increases the efficiency of the lungs and reduces the strain on the heart. Achromatic color. A color that is black, white, or a shade of gray. Acid permanent wave. The most gentle form of permanent waving, it uses glyceryl monothioglycolate (pH of 6.0 to 8.0) as its active ingredient. This wave uses a heat source to activate the curl. Alkaline permanent wave. Permanent waving process that uses ammonium thioglycolate (pH of 8.0 to 9.5) as its active ingredient. Forms firm curls. Allergy test. See Patch test. Alopecia. Any form of abnormal hair loss. There are many types of alopecia. Ammonium thioglycolate. See Thio. Analine derivative color. Another name for permanent hair color. Antiseptic. Material that counteracts bacteria. It is generally used to combat small infections on the body’s surface. See also Disinfectant. Aromatherapy. The inhalation of essential oils to enhance well- being.

B Back perimeter. The bottom line that is found by combing down the hair in the back. Back-brushing. Hair styling technique in which shorter hair is pushed down to the scalp with a brush to add support and volume. Back-combing. Back-brushing, but with a comb instead of a brush. The comb more firmly locks the hair for a stronger hold.

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Back-slashing. A cutting technique that uses a scissors and back- combing to create a “shattered” look to the hair ends. Balyage. A dimensional technique in which the hair being colored is separated from the rest of the hair with cotton. Bangs. Front perimeter above the bridge of the nose. Also known as fringe. Barrel. The large, round shaft of a thermal iron. Base. The area of hair that is sectioned out to be curled. Basic sections. The Aveda sectioning technique that partitions the hair into six sections for control purposes. Also known as Six Basic Sections. Beaded hair. A genetic condition that causes the hair shaft to have a beaded or lumpy appearance, causing the hair to break off between the beaded areas. Bevel. The slightly curved shape created at the perimeter of one- length or graduated hair. Bleach wash. See Color cleansing. Bleaching. In hair coloring, the process of lightening the hair. Not a preferred term. See also On-the-scalp lightener and Off-the- scalp lightener. Blocking. In permanent waving and relaxing, the subsection wrapped on each rod. Body wave. A permanent wave that uses large rods to create big curls. Boil. See Furuncle. Bouffant. Full hairstyle. Bow chignon. Variation of the chignon. Bricklaying pattern. A way of placing rollers or rods so they offset one another, minimizing visible separations in the finished style. Brush-on dimensional color. See Freehand dimensional color. Bumper iron. An oven-heated thermal iron. Also known as a marcel iron.

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C Calcium hydroxide. See Hydroxide. Canities. The medical term for white hair. Cap frost. A technique of placing a frosting cap on the client’s head and pulling hair to be colored through the cap. Also known as reverse frost or lowlight. Carbuncle. A bacterial infection of the skin and underlying tissue that usually has several openings through which pus is discharged. Channeling. A cutting technique that runs standard scissors either parallel to the shaft or diagonally across the shaft in a crisscrossing pattern. Chemical blowout. Hair that is partially relaxed and worn in a "natural." Chignon. An elegant hairstyle with a knot effect and a sleek finish. Chipping. A cutting technique that uses a standard scissors to cut into the perimeter from the outside inward. Chromatic color. A color of the rainbow. Circular shapings. A styling sectioning used to create waves that fall in a spherical motion. Also known as arcs, pivots, or radials. Cleansing manipulation. Massage technique used while shampooing. Clipper cutting. A cutting technique using clippers that is usually performed on hair that is 2" or shorter, but can be performed on any length hair. Clipper guard. Clipper attachment used to cut hair a consistent length. Closed end. The closed side of the C in a pin curl or finger wave. Coarse teeth of a comb. The end of the comb with teeth spaced wider apart. These teeth provide less tension on the hair than the fine teeth of the comb.

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Cold shaft. In hair coloring, the area between the hot shaft and the porous ends. Color is absorbed less quickly than in the hot shaft. See also Hot shaft. Color catalyst. See Hydrogen peroxide. Color cleansing. Lifting the unwanted tone or level of a client’s hair with a product that mixes lightener with shampoo. Color Wheel. A tool used by colorists in which the twelve colors (three primary, three secondary, and six tertiary) are positioned in a circle in the order of their relationship to one another. Comb elevation. A graduated cutting technique used to determine the correct elevation at which to cut. Comb-on dimensional color. See Freehand dimensional color. Commission. Percentage of service income and product sales provided to salon employees as income. Complimentary colors. Colors directly across from each other on the color wheel. Compound henna. A mixture of henna with metallic salts (lead acetate). Hair that has been treated with metallic salts cannot be successfully permanent waved. Conditioner. Product that rejuvenates and revitalizes hair. Connection. In layered cutting, the process of blending the hair above the parietal ridge to the hair below it which has already been layered. Cool colors. Those colors in the blue part of the color wheel that project a cool feeling, like ice. Blue is the only cool primary color. When colors are mixed, cool dominates. Corn rows. Inverted French braids created in narrow sections that sit against the scalp. Cortex. Part of the structure of a hair shaft. It is made up of coiled strands of rope-like fibers wrapped around each other. Coupler. A component of permanent hair color.

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Croquignole curl. Process of curling hair from the end of the strand to the scalp. Crown. The top of the head. Curl activator. A temporary curl-enhancing styling product. Curling iron. See Thermal iron. Curly hair. Curly hair grows up and away from the scalp, forming a curved shape that can range from slightly wavy to coils, spirals, or ringlets. Cushion color. A technique in which hair is back-combed and then color is applied to the ends. Cushioning. In hair styling, the result of back-brushing or back- combing. Cuticle. 1) The outer surface of a hair shaft. Made up of flattened cells arranged into scales. 2) The skin around the nails.

D Demi-permanent hair color. Non-permanent type of hair color that darkens, changes tone, or blends gray, but cannot lift hair color. It lasts four to six weeks. Density. The number of hairs per square inch on the scalp. Dermal. Related to skin. Developer. See Hydrogen peroxide. Diagonal layers. A layered cutting technique where the hair is sectioned at a diagonal. Diameter. The width of the hair shaft. Classified as fine, medium, or coarse. Diffused (pheomelanin) pigment. Red or yellow hair color. Diffuser. The attachment on the hair dryer used to maintain an existing curl while drying the hair. Dimensional color. In hair coloring, when one or more shades are interspersed with the client’s natural color. See also Highlighting and Lowlighting.

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Direct dyes. Dyes that contain pigments that are pre-formed. Disinfectant. This material destroys bacteria on tools and surfaces. Unlike an antiseptic, it is not generally used on the skin. Also known as bactericide or germicide. Distillation. An essence extraction method that uses hot steam, which is passed through the plant. As the walls of the plant cells break down, the essence is released as a vapor, which becomes an essential oil when cooled. Double-process blonding. See Pre-lightening. Draped style. A hair styling technique where crown hair is gathered into a pony tail and then portions of the hair around the hairline are gathered up to form a tousled mass at the top of the crown. Draping. The process of wrapping a cape and towel to keep water and products off the client. Dropped crown. The part of the head at the back of the crown. Dry cutting. The cutting technique used to cut dry hair. Especially useful for curly hair and areas of strong growth patterns. Dry sanitizer. A closed container used to hold clean equipment. Dye intermediate. A component of permanent hair color.

E Ear-to-ear parting. The sectioning that divides the front half of the head from the back. Edger. A small clipper with very fine teeth often used for doing finishing work in hairlines and sideburn areas. Elasticity. The hair’s ability to stretch and then return to its original length without breaking. Elevation. The angle, usually referred to in degrees, at which hair is lifted away from the scalp. End wraps. Pieces of thin absorbent paper used in permanent waving to help the wrapping process.

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Enfleurage. An essence extraction method in which floral petals are spread over fat-covered glass plates until the fat becomes saturated with the petals. The oils are separated from the fat with alcohol, and then hot steam is passed through the plant material. Essences. See Plant-based essences. Eumelanin. See Granular pigment. Exothermic permanent wave. A form of acid permanent wave that chemically creates its own heat source. Expression. An essence extraction method in which the peel of a citrus fruit is removed, shredded, and mixed with water. The oil is then physically squeezed out of the plant material and cold pressed using rollers or sponges. The oil is then separated and any solids are filtered out. Exterior shape. The outline of the hair as it falls naturally.

F Figure 6 curl. A curling technique applied to short to mid-length hair. Figure 8 curl. A curling technique applied to long hair. Fine teeth of a comb. The end of the comb with teeth spaced closely together. These teeth provide more tension on the hair than the coarse teeth. Finger drying. A hair styling technique that uses both a blow dryer and fingers. Finger waving. A hair styling technique that uses setting lotion and the stylist’s fingers to create a waved look. Finishing touch. The added service where you provide your client with an upgrade to her existing make-up. If the client is a man or a woman who doesn’t wear make-up, the finishing touch can be a hand treatment, moisturizer application, or aromatherapy sampler. Fishtail. A two-strand braid made by working strands over and into the center.

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Flat iron. A thermal iron made with two flat, paddle-like surfaces used to smooth or straighten hair. Flat pin curls. Curls created by curling subsections of hair into finger wave shapings and clipping them in place flat against the scalp. Formulation. In hair coloring, the process by which a colorist determines how to technically achieve the client’s desired shade. Fountaining. See Twisting. Freehand dimensional color. Methods of painting, combing, or brushing color on the hair to highlight or lowlight it. French braid. Three strands worked together with unexposed knotting. The result lies on the scalp. French twist. An upswept hairdo with a vertical seam in the back of the head (the “twist”), and a smooth, clean finish that conceals the hair pins. Fringe. See Bangs. Front perimeter. The bottom line that is found by combing down the hair in the front hairline. See also Bangs. Full-stem curls. See Long-stem curls. Furuncle. A skin disorder caused by a bacterial infection of the hair follicle, which forms a pustule perforated by a hair. Also known as a boil.

G Germicide. See Disinfectant. Graduated angle. The result of cutting an angle between the front and side perimeters and then graduating the side perimeter. Graduated technique. One of the three Aveda hair cutting foundations. This technique provides a gradual build-up of weight at the perimeter. Granular (eumelanin) pigment. Black or brown hair pigment.

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Gravity. The natural force that pulls objects toward the earth. Gross pay. The amount of an employee’s pay before any deductions. Also known as salary. Grounding. An exercise that helps you enter a relaxed state in which you can review your thoughts and experiences and prepare yourself to make the changes necessary for a successful life. Growth patterns. Strong or sudden changes in hair’s growth direction. Generally found in the front or back hairline as well as the crown, and often described as cowlicks or whirls. Guarantee. The minimum amount paid under a salary plan.

H Hair bulb. The base of the hair shaft around the papilla. Hair color catalyst. See Hydrogen peroxide. Hair color tone. In hair coloring, the warmth or coolness that is added to a neutral color level. Hair extension. Additional natural or faux hair. Hair follicle. Depression in the skin that contains and supports the hair. Hair painting. See Freehand dimensional color. Hair shaft. The strand form of hair that we recognize and service. Half-on half-off base curls. In permanent waving, curls resulting from rods that are wrapped at 90° from the scalp and situated half on, half off their base. See also On-base curls and Off-base curls. Half-round brush. A tool often used for creating a smooth style with a bevel at the ends. Half-stem curls. Pin curls that sit half on, half off the base. They produce medium volume and mobility.

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Hand treatment. A sensory experience in which you massage the hands to relax the client and reduce stress, and apply product to smooth and moisturize the hands. Hard set. The styling technique that pins curls have after they have been formed using a round brush. Creates longer lasting curls than a soft set. Head lice. Infestation of the hair by tiny parasitic insects that feed on human blood and lay their eggs on the scalp and hair shaft. They are spread by the sharing of implements or personal articles. Henna. A vegetable hair color used as a semi-permanent dye. Highlighting. Lightening small sections of hair. Histology. The study of hair structure, as seen under a microscope. Horizontal layers. A layered cutting technique in which the hair is sectioned horizontal to the back perimeter. Horseshoe shapings. See Circular shapings. Hot shaft. In hair coloring, the X" of hair closest to the scalp. Lifting color occurs from 5–15 times faster in this area than in the rest of the hair shaft because the heat from the scalp affects the product’s activation. See also Cold shaft. Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is often the hair lightening agent for lift. Also known as hair color catalyst or developer, or by the manufacturer’s name. Hydroxide. Product used to relax hair. Caution should be taken to not mix with other chemicals to avoid damage to the hair. Hyper-sensitivity test. See Patch test. Hypertrichosis. Abnormal growth of hair on areas normally having no hair.

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I, J Imbrications. The scale-like part of the hair cuticle. Indentation curl. A curl set in a reverse pattern that lies on its base. Interior shape. The shape that would form if all the hair was projected at the elevation at which it was cut. Into gravity. The process of brushing or combing hair directly down.

K Keratin. The hardened protein that forms the hair shaft.

L Layered technique. One of the three Aveda hair cutting foundations. This technique provides the most reduction of weight from the hair. Leave-in rejuvenating conditioner. Product used without rinsing to deep condition the hair. Level system. A means for identifying the depth, or amount of lightness or darkness, in hair color. Hair color ranges from level 1 (black) to level 10 (lightest blonde). Lice. See Head lice. Lifting levels. Stages that natural hair goes through as it is being lightened. Relates quite closely to sun lightening. Lifting. In hair coloring, the process of lightening hair through the lifting levels. Lightening. The process of lifting color from hair using a lightener. Locking. In the half-round brush styling technique, the process of firmly gathering the hair closest to the scalp into the brush. Long layers. A layered cutting technique that creates shorter hair on top progressing to longer at the bottom.

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Long-stem curls. This curl is combed 45° from the scalp and placed entirely off the base. Produces the least volume and most mobility. Also known as full-stem curls. Lowlighting. The process of adding a color that is darker than the natural hair color to the hair in small sections.

M Marcel iron. An oven-heated thermal iron with no spring on the tong. Also known as a bumper iron. Marcel waves. Deep regular S waves that lie close to the head. Created using a thermal iron and dry hair. Medulla. The center of the hair shaft. Melanin. The material in hair that creates its natural color. Mini-facial. A sensory experience in which you remove old make-up and impurities and stimulate nerve endings by manipulating pressure points. Minimum wage. An employer is required to pay employees a minimum wage amount, which is determined by each state in which you work. Mobility. The ability of a curl to move away from its base. Moving blade of the scissors. The blade controlled by the thumb when cutting. The other blade is stationary.

N Nape. The area at the back of the head that extends from the neck to the occipital bone. Natural graduation. The graduated cutting technique that uses the natural shape of the head to determine cutting elevation. Natural remaining pigment (NRP). The tonal value that the hair contributes as it lightens. The NRP that the hair will contribute at the desired level must be determined before coloring the hair.

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Net pay. The amount of pay after any deductions. Also known as take-home pay. Neutralization. Changing hair color that is too cool (ash) or too warm to a neutral brown or blonde shade. Neutralizer. An acidic chemical that rebonds the hair in the permanent wave process. It is used after the permanent wave solution, which breaks down the bonds of the hair. Neutralizing colors. Mixing together two colors directly opposite on the color wheel (e.g., orange and blue, violet and yellow). The color produced bears no resemblance to the two original colors. Nonpigmented hair. White or gray hair. Also known as unpigmented hair. No-stem curls. This curl is combed 135° from the scalp and placed on the base. Produces the strongest volume and least mobility. NRP. See Natural remaining pigment.

O Occipital bone. The bone that forms the lower back of the skull, beneath the parietal ridge. Off-base curls. In permanent waving, curls resulting from rods that are wrapped at 45° from the scalp and situated entirely off their base. Creates maximum mobility. See also On-base curls and Half-on half-off base curls. Off-the-scalp lightener. In hair coloring, the product that is used for highlighting. On-base curls. In permanent waving, curls resulting from rods that are wrapped at 135° from the scalp and situated right on the base of the hair. Creates minimum mobility. See also Off-base curls and Half-on half-off base curls. One-length angle. The result of cutting an angle between the front and side perimeters. When combed into gravity, all hair comes to the angled perimeter.

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One-length technique. One of the three Aveda hair cutting foundations. This technique provides maximum weight at the perimeter. On-the-scalp lightener. In hair coloring, the product that is gentle enough to apply to the scalp when lightening. Open end. The open side of the C in a pin curl or finger wave. Over-direction. A hair cutting technique in which the fingers are moved away from parallel to the parting when holding a section. Oxidative hair color. Another name for permanent hair color.

P, Q Paddle brush. A large flat brush used to smooth and straighten the hair. Palm drying. A technique that uses a blow dryer to dry the hair while “scrubbing” your palm in a circular pattern over the scalp. Used to make the hair stand up with a sharp, pointed texture. Palming. Safely holding the scissors or comb while using another tool in the same or other hand. Papilla. A cone-shaped projection of skin cells at the base of the hair follicle. Parietal ridge. The ridge formed by the bones at the sides of the head. Parting. The line separating sections or subsections of hair. Patch test. A test performed at least 24 hours before a color service to determine if the client is allergic to the product. Also known as a predisposition test, an allergy test, a hyper- sensitivity test, and a 24-hour patch test. Perimeter. The outside design created by the hair when it falls into gravity.

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Permanent hair color. The product used in the process of permanently lifting color from hair and applying a different color. The color will not wash out. Also known as analine derivative color and oxidative hair color. Permanent waving. The process of chemically adding curl to hair. Perpendicular movement. A directional permanent wave wrap in which rods are placed in patterns that flow T to each other. Pheomelanin. See Diffused pigment. Pick-up line. A line running parallel to the top section parting that determines the thickness of the subsection. Pigment weight. Darker colors are said to have greater "pigment weight": they contain more pigment/dye intermediates than lifting agents. Lighter hair colors have the reverse: more lightening agents than pigment/dye intermediates. Because lighter colors have this lower pigment weight, they cover brassy tones and gray less efficiently than darker colors do. Pinch braid. An extension that is braided into natural hair, but only near the scalp. Pivoting movement. See Radial movement. Plane. Any flat area of the head. Plant-based essences. Organic compounds that have a beneficial action on the body, including cleansing, conditioning, purifying, and reducing stress. Point cutting. A cutting technique that uses the points of the scissors to cut the ends of the hair at an angle to the original cut or at opposing angles (creating “triangles” at the ends of the hair). Pompadour. A hairstyle with no part; worn back, off the face. Porosity. The hair’s ability to absorb moisture. Potassium hydroxide. See Hydroxide.

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Pre-coloration/filling. Returning a client’s previously lightened hair to a darker, even shade. Must be performed when the desired corrective color is more than two levels darker than the existing tinted hair. Predisposition test. See Patch test. Pre-lightening. In hair coloring, the process of lightening hair when a single process hair color cannot produce the desired result, which is either an extremely light ash blonde color or more than five levels of lift. Also known as double-process blonding. Pressing comb. See Thermal pressing comb. Pressing. A hair styling technique that involves running a thermal pressing comb through hair to straighten and smooth it. Also known as silking. Primary colors. Red, yellow, and blue. The basic building blocks of all chromatic colors. They cannot be created by mixing other colors together. Primary scissors position. The scissors position used for cutting the graduated and layered techniques. Psoriasis. A non-contagious skin condition that usually appears on the knees, elbows, scalp, trunk, and nails as patches of raised red skin covered by flaky white scales. Pustules. Small swellings similar to blisters or pimples.

R Radial movement. A directional permanent wave wrap in which rods are placed in a circular pattern. Ragsetting. A hair styling technique that uses rags or tissues as the tool around which hair is wound to produce tight waves on long hair. Razor tapering. A cutting technique that uses a straight razor with a light touch to produce a softness at the ends or interior of the hair.

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Rearranging. The first step in a reformation curl service. The hair is straightened using a rearranger. Rebonding. The chemical reaction that occurs during the neutralizing step in permanent waving. During rebonding, the acidic neutralizer forces the acid mantle to compress, closing the cuticle. Recession. The area of the front hairline at the temples. Referral. A recommendation from a customer to another prospective customer to use your services. Reformation curls. The result of first relaxing and then adding curl using a chemical process. Relaxer. The chemical used in the process of permanently reducing or eliminating curl from the hair. Reperming. The process of correcting a permanent wave where the curls are too tight. The hair is permed again on larger rods. Retention. The building of long-term client relationships in which the client comes back to you again and again. Reverse frost. See Cap frost. Ribboning. To stretch the hair while keeping the strands evenly together. Used in pin curling. Ridge. In hair styling, the part of a wave that comes to a peak. Ringworm. A skin disorder caused by vegetable parasites. Appears as small circular reddish patches, and can be present on both the skin and scalp in different forms. Ringworm is transferred from one person to another by scales or hairs, which contain fungi. Round brush. In hair styling, a tool usually used to form curls.

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S Safety section. The section created at the front hairline when the front perimeter needs to be a different length than the side and back perimeters. Sanitary. The state of being clean. Scabies. A skin disorder caused by a small female insect called the human itch mite. It causes pustules and vesicles to appear, and can be spread very easily by sharing implements or personal articles. Scientific brushing. System of thoroughly brushing hair. Scissors-over-comb technique. A cutting technique performed on hair that is 1” or shorter —too short to be held in the fingers. Also known as shingling or tapering. Scrunching. A styling technique that uses the blow dryer without the nozzle attachment to direct the air into the hair held in your palm. Sebaceous glands. The glands attached to the hair follicle. They express sebum (oil) to lubricate the hair and scalp. Seborrhea. A non-contagious skin condition where an overactive sebaceous gland causes an excessively oily scalp. Sebum. The oily substance secreted by the sebaceous glands to lubricate the hair and scalp. Secondary colors. Green, orange, and violet. The colors that result from mixing together two primary colors in similar proportions. Secondary scissors position. The scissors position used for cutting the one-length technique. Section. A division of hair created before cutting or styling. Sectioning. Parting the hair into uniform controllable areas. Semi-permanent hair color. Non-oxidative type of hair color that does not provide the coverage of demi-permanent, but can be successfully used to blend gray or provide understated changes in color.

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Sensory experiences. The added services that are provided to give your clients service that is above and beyond what they might expect at an ordinary salon, and to relax them and promote Aveda products and services. Service income. The monetary amount produced by performing salon services by a salon employee. Shanks of the scissors. The parts of the scissors between the finger grips and the blades. Shaping. In pin curls, a section of hair that has been formed into a C contour, following the shape of the head. The pin curls sit inside the shaping. Shingling. See Scissors-over-comb technique. Side perimeter. The bottom line that is found by combing down the hair on the sides. Silking. See Pressing. Six basic sections. See Basic sections. Slicing. Dividing a subsection of hair with a straight parting. Slide cutting. A cutting technique that uses a standard scissors to run down the hair shaft toward the end with the blade closing slightly. Slithering. A cutting technique that uses a standard scissors in a back-combing motion with the blade closing slightly. Sodium hydroxide. See Hydroxide. Soft set. A styling technique that uses a round brush to create loose curls. See also Hard set. Solvent extraction. An essence extraction method in which floral material is submerged in a solvent. When the solvent is removed, the essential oil and floral wax are left behind and then separated. Spine of a comb. The back edge of the comb. Spiral curl. The result of the process of winding hair in a spiral on a permanent wave rod or thermal iron.

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Split ends. A hair disorder caused by physical and environmental wear on the ends of the hair shaft, giving a frayed appearance to the hair ends. Spot wrap. A permanent wave correction technique in which only individual areas of the hair are permed. SRT. See Stress-relieving treatment. Stages of lightening. The colors that can be identified by the human eye as the hair lightens. Stand-up pin curls. See Volume pin curls. Stem. In hair styling, the length of hair closest to the base that is not rolled around the roller or included in the pin curl. Sterile. An environment where germs do not exist, for example in surgery or a high-tech industrial location. Still blade of the scissors. The blade controlled by the fingers other than the thumb. It does not move up and down. Straight perm. A term used to refer to relaxing hair. Strand test. A test performed during the processing of a chemical service to determine development and timing of the chemical or formula being used. See also Test strand. Stress-relieving treatment (SRT). An Aveda value-added service that can be any number of quick massage techniques. Subsection. In cutting, the division of a section that is cut at one time. Subsections can be horizontal, vertical, or diagonal. Surface marcel wave. A styling technique in which only the top layer of the hair is marcelled. Surfactant. Short for Surface Active Agent. A cleanser for the hair and scalp surface. Synthetic compounds. Laboratory-produced compounds that attempt to imitate plant-based essences.

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T T to the section. The hair is held perpendicular to the section. Tapering. See Scissors-over-comb technique. Temporary color. A hair coloring product that washes out with one cleansing/shampoo. It can darken but not lighten natural color. Tension. The amount of strength applied to the hair to control it, either with the fingers or with a comb. Terminal hair. The coarse hair found on the scalp, under the armpits, and on men’s faces. Tertiary colors. The result of primary and secondary colors mixed together in similar proportions. Their names are stated with the primary color listed first (for example, yellow/orange and red/violet). Test strand. A test performed prior to a chemical service to determine the hair and skin’s reaction to the chemical or formula to be used. See also Strand test. Texture. The diameter of the hair strand. Referred to as coarse, medium, or fine. Sometimes used to refer to curly or wavy hair. Texturizer. Partially relaxing hair so some curl is deliberately left in. Thermal iron. A heated tool used to curl, wave, or smooth hair. It can be electric or oven-heated. Also known as curling iron or bumper iron. Thermal pick. The pick attachment to a blow dryer. Can be used to both dry and straighten highly textured hair. Thermal pressing comb. An oven-heated metal tool used to smooth and straighten hair. Thio. Ammonium thioglycolate. A chemical compound made of ammonia and thioglycolic acid used in permanent waving and relaxing. It causes the bonds in the hair to break. Mixing it on the same hair shaft as hydroxide chemicals damages the hair.

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Thoracic breathing. Breathing only in the upper portions of the lungs. See also Abdominal breathing. Time management wheel. A graphic representation of the Aveda methodology for servicing clients. Tone. See Hair color tone. Tong. The part of a thermal iron that holds hair against the barrel. Toning. Any hair coloring done after a pre-lightening. Trichology. The study of hair. Tri-color hair service. A hair coloring technique that uses different but closely related hair color shades in three separate circular sections around the crown. Trough. In hair styling, the part of a wave between ridges. Twenty-four-hour patch test. See Patch test. Twisting. A cutting technique that uses a standard scissors to create areas of varying lengths in the haircut. Also known as fountaining.

U Unpigmented hair. See Nonpigmented hair.

V Vellus hair. The short, fine, soft hair found on the cheeks, arms, and most of the body’s surface. Vertical layers. A layered cutting technique in which the hair is sectioned vertical to the back perimeter. Vesicles. Blisters formed in or beneath the skin. Virgin hair. Hair that has not been chemically treated. Volume. The amount of fullness produced by a curl. Volume pin curls. Curls created by curling subsections of hair into finger wave-like shapings and clipping them in place. The curls sit upright, away from the head.

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W, X, Y, Z Warm colors. Colors in the red and yellow part of the color wheel that project a warm feeling, like fire. Weaving. Dividing a subsection of hair with a zigzag parting. Weight. Weight is the hair remaining after a client’s hair is cut. The hair in a one-length cut is literally heavier than the hair in a layered or graduated cut of the same length perimeter. Wet cutting. The cutting technique used to cut wet hair. Especially useful for straight hair with few or no growth patterns. Wet sanitizer. A receptacle that uses liquid to sanitize tools.

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