Bedding down in bangk k

Mandarin Oriental

words by paul myers From boutique to big-gun, riverside to regal, ’s capital has hot hotels to suit every whim and wallet.

july 2012 QANTAS 69 s one of the world’s 10 most-visited cities, with more than 10 million international arrivals likely this year, you would expect to have its fair share of hotels. And it does – more than 900 at last count, a figure that increases every week.

But it’s not just the choice of accommodation that makes – Shangri-La, Hyatt, Sheraton, Westin and Sofitel – all of Bangkok such a dream city for travellers. Prices in the capital which are considerably lower in price than their sister proper- of the Land of Smiles are more competitive than those of ties in comparable cities. Amany other metropolises. So much so, that the mantra of As in many Asian cities, Bangkok’s early hotel develop- almost every hotelier in town is: “If only we could charge ments were beside its waterway – the Chao Phraya River. more”. Indeed. Bangkok may be the only major international Here, the grand hotels emerged to cater for seafarers and city where it’s possible to find a five-star hotel room for $100 traders, and, despite the hub of city life moving away from a night or, in low season (June-September), even less. the river, a few still survive, with some later additions. The city’s elite hotels are perfect examples of Bangkok’s As virtual city resorts, a feature of all the best riverfront unrivalled value for money. At around $344 a night, the hotels is the ferry service operated by each property connect- Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok’s oldest, most famous and to ing them to the Skytrain network. What better way many its best hotel, costs $150 less than its sister property in to leave for – or return from – a day’s shopping, business or Hong Kong and half the price of a room at the same brand entertainment than by a traditional, open-sided, wooden in New York. It’s a similar story at Bangkok’s other big brands ferry, especially in a bustling city such as Bangkok? 

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa

70 QANTAS july 2012 Mandarin Oriental (left); The Peninsula (below)

Near many of the riverfront hotels, on the city side, is one of – should suffice. Few hotel brands Maugham, Noel Coward, John Bangkok’s main attractions, the Grand Palace, home to the Thai royal have The Peninsula’s cachet. Its Le Carre and James Michener. family since 1782. Not far away are some of the many canals linked restaurants range from traditional Hence the hotel’s inviting Authors’ to the river, which provide a fascinating insight into traditional Thai Thai to Western and Cantonese. Lounge, where traditional English life. Floating markets and canal-side living are still part of the city’s From $178. high tea is served. The hotel lobby, day-to-day business, which makes staying in a riverfront hotel that featuring iconic temple bell much more interesting. Anantara Bangkok chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling When the Thai capital emerged as an important Asian business Riverside Resort & Spa windows and royal elephant hub in the 1980s, high-rise offices sprang up along the Sathon-Silom 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Road. sculptures on either side of the corridor, a few kilometres north of the river. Five-star business- www.bangkok-riverside. lifts, is the most striking in Bangkok, oriented hotels followed, of which there is still a good representation anantara.com while traditionally attired bellboys of high-end local and international brands. Now, with shopping and Perhaps Bangkok’s only true resort provide an insight into a bygone entertainment among the main reasons so many visitors come to hotel, the Anantara Riverside is world when the hotel, as The Bangkok, a swag of hotels can be found along the city’s main several kilometres from any real Oriental, first made its mark in thoroughfare, Sukhumvit Road. This is also the preferred location for Bangkok action, an enclave in a the city. From $344. hip new hotels in the style of New York and London. frenetic city and, like other riverfront hotels, it operates regular ferry BETTER BUSINESS services to Saphan Taksin Skytrain Four Seasons ON THE long-stay apartments and easy station. A major renovation has 159 Rajadamri Road. RIVERFRONT access to Saphan Taksin Skytrain given the hotel a fresh new appeal fourseasons.com/bangkok Shangri-La station are among others. From $178. to those seeking an exotic escape Hand-painted silk ceilings, a grand 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu within reach of the city. From $128. lobby and a mix of traditional and New Road, Bangrak. The Peninsula contemporary decor make this one www.shangri-la.com 333 Charoennakorn Mandarin Oriental of Bangkok’s favoured business A private balcony overlooking Road, Klongsan. 48 Oriental Avenue. hotels – as well as its location the Chao Phraya River in the www.peninsula.com www.mandarinoriental.com opposite Royal Bangkok Sports Krungthep wing is just one of many If the Rolls-Royce limousines The Its predecessor, The Oriental, dates Club. Sunday brunch, regarded by reasons to choose the Shangri-La. Peninsula operates for its guests back to 1865, but the Mandarin many locals and expats as the best Another, of course, is the aura of don’t tell you something about Oriental’s official beginning was in Bangkok, costs about $80 per the brand itself, the Bangkok this famous hotel, its location by 1876. Among many regular guests person and features dishes from incarnation being no exception. the river and numerous awards – were Joseph Conrad – who arrived the hotel’s four restaurants plus A sumptuous lobby, butler service, including South-East Asia’s top city by boat as a Polish merchant naval top international wines and more than 800 rooms, serviced hotel (The Gallivanter’s Guide) officer in 1888 – W Somerset Champagne. From $170. 

72 QANTAS july 2012 Vertigo Bar at Banyan Tree; Sukhothai lobby (right); Banyan Tree spa (below right)

Sukhothai of the best value. On the edge of 13/3 South Sathorn Road. the shopping and entertainment www.sukhothai.com district, Baiyoke is only a short walk Set well back from South Sathorn from Ratchaprarop airport railway Road in expansive garden-like station. Standard rooms start on grounds, the Sukhothai markets the 22nd floor, after which is a “Sky itself as “a place apart”, apt for Zone”; then a “Space Zone” from a hotel that is a Leading Hotels the 64th to 74th floors. The of the World member and is 83rd-floor rooftop bar has favoured by business executives spectacular views. From $87. seeking away-from-it-all solitude. Named after an ancient northern InterContinental kingdom, its somewhat austere 973 Ploenchit Road. facade is considerably softened www.intercontinental.com by ample Thai art, beautifully in Bangkok, a fabulous bar and rooftop Vertigo Bar, where – Right in the thick of the shopping appointed rooms and three several outstanding dining options, if you don’t mind the giddying precinct on Sukhumvit Road, top-class restaurants, including La including JoJo Italian restaurant. height (61 floors) or sky-high (for the InterContinental is as well Scala, where Italy meets Thailand From $177. Bangkok) prices – you can eat and positioned as any hotel in town. on a plate. The Hollywood-style drink under the stars. The hotel is Within walking distance of all pool is a glamorous socialising hub. Metropolitan also ideally situated for business the major department stores From $192. 27 South Sathorn Road, travellers and is close to the in the , and adjacent Tungmahamek, Sathorn. Australian Embassy on South to Chitlom Skytrain station, its St Regis metropolitan.bangkok.como.bz Sathorn Road. The hotel is out other big attraction (for Australians, 159 Rajadamri Road. The Metropolitan has become an of character in the portfolio of anyway) is the Grossi Trattoria & www.starwoodhotels.com institution in Bangkok because of its the Banyan Tree group, which Wine Bar, with its own entrance More like a swish apartment relatively small size (171 guestrooms), specialises in pool villa properties at street level, the baby of building, the St Regis’ elegant contemporary interior design and in resort destinations such as Melbourne chef, Guy (Florentino) touches make it one of Bangkok’s Nahm – its Thai restaurant run by Phuket. From $156. Grossi. From $177. most desirable five-star hotels. Australian chef David Thompson. Within walking distance of major From $144. SHOPPING Westin Grande Sukhumvit shopping, with views over the CENTRAL 259 Sukhumvit Road. Bangkok Sports Club grounds, it Banyan Tree Baiyoke Sky Hotel www.starwoodhotels.com offers the on-site Elemis Spa and 21/100 South Sathorn Road. 222 Ratchaprarop Road, A favourite of Bangkok regulars, direct air-bridge connection to the www.banyantree.com Ratchathewi. baiyokehotel.com the hotel is situated next to Asok Silom BTS Skytrain line. St Regis also Many visitors to Bangkok go to the The Baiyoke is part of Bangkok’s Skytrain and Sukhumvit MRT boasts one of the best hotel pools Banyan Tree because of its famous tallest building (88 storeys) and one stations, and the new Terminal 

74 QANTAS july 2012 JoJo Italian restaurant, on the terrace at St Regis online time to get going... For more city accommodation guides: qantas.com/travelinsider

Aloft 35 Sukhumvit Road, Soi 11, Klongtoey Nua Wattana. www.starwoodhotels.com One of Bangkok’s newer hotels, Aloft is on Soi 11, opposite the popular Bed Supperclub and around the corner from another nightlife institution, Q Bar. Local attractions aside, Aloft is the Starwood (Sheraton, Westin, St Regis, Le Meridien) entry into Bangkok’s hip hotel category. The hotel is now attracting guests well outside its original target demographic as it registers on the radar of older but still price-aware travellers. From $65.

Value Sofitel Sukhumvit, Aloft Location InterContinental, Four Seasons Resort- bangkok’s style Anantara Bangkok Riverside, Shangri-La Ambience Mandarin Oriental, The Peninsula Dining St Regis (JoJo Italian restaurant), Metropolitan (Nahm restaurant), best Four Seasons (Sunday brunch), InterContinental (Grossi Trattoria) Drinks Banyan Tree ... (Vertigo Bar), Siam@Siam Pool St Regis, Sofitel Sukhumvit views Baiyoke, The Peninsula (the two tallest hotels in Bangkok) New Hotels Aloft, Sofitel Sukhumvit

21 shopping complex. It is impressive pool, a wonderful a cigar and wine kiosk and The Lit Bangkok also within walking distance of lounge/bar and typical Sofitel Roof Restaurant, ideal to enjoy the 36/1 Soi Kasemsan 1, numerous bars and nightspots, quality. From $153. city skyline by night. From $87. Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan. while also passing the test as www.litbangkok.com a legitimate high-end business POSITIVELY HIP Vie A new hotel in a backstreet near hotel. From $132. Siam@Siam 117/39-40 Phaya Thai Road, the MBK shopping complex and 865 Rama 1 Road. Ratchathewi. accorhotels.com Siam BTS station. Its L-shaped Sofitel Sukhumvit www.siamatsiam.com Near the shopping precinct, the curved steel exterior, ergonomic 189 Sukhumvit Road, Soi 13-15, The 203-room Siam@Siam Vie is part of Accor’s M Gallery furniture and colorful arty Klongtoey Nua Wattana. Design Hotel & Spa is a boutique collection. Since opening two interior design won’t appeal to www.sofitel.com hotel with a difference. Art years ago, it has won widespread traditionalists, but the price and This new (opened in March) hotel is works, individually-styled rooms, acclaim for its funky interior position attract central-city hotel near the Westin Grande Sukhumvit the small but elegant Spa Ten design and breakaway ambience. seekers. From $135. c and over the road from the and a hip buzz that attracts Winner of several awards, including Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. Bangkok’s in crowd make this best boutique hotel in Asia, For airfares call Qantas on 13 13 13 or visit qantas. Perfectly positioned for nightlife, hotel a favourite of visitors the hotel combines traditional com. For holiday packages shopping and (within a few Skytrain seeking a break from the chain- service and comfort with hip to Bangkok call Qantas stops) business, it, too, has an hotel formula. There is also design. From $99. Holidays on 13 14 15.

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