Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice NYSED: 85053 CIP: 30.1401 specialists and researchers, vintage clothing and textile dealers, archivists, and The 51-credit, full- or part-time program consultants. Curriculum below is for the in Fashion and Textile Studies: History, entering class of fall 2021. Theory, Museum Practice prepares students for professional curatorial, LOURDES FONT, Acting Chair conservation, education, and other scholarly [email protected] careers that focus on historic clothing, fitnyc.edu/fashiontextilehistory accessories, textiles, and other related materials. Fashion and textiles are explored COURSE OF STUDY from a variety of perspectives, including Semester 1 traditional art historical methodologies, FT 521 Fashion History through the Nineteenth 3 Century as well as innovative approaches, such as FT 541 Proseminar: Critical Writing, Research 1 anthropology, material culture, and gender Techniques, and Documentation Methods studies. The curriculum offers a vigorous, FT 522 History of Western Textiles 3 hands-on approach to the study of fiber- FT 551 Collection Management Skills 3 based objects through a close association FT 561 Fiber and Fabric: Identification and 3 with The Museum at FIT. Students may Analysis elect either a curatorial or a conservation Semester 2 emphasis, but all students are taught basic FT 523 History of Twentieth Century Fashion 3 conservation skills, current collections FT 524 Dress and Textiles in World Cultures 3 management methods, and the proper FT 552 Museum Theory and Practices 3 exhibition techniques for costumes and FT 562 Conservation Practices: Theory and 3 textiles. To supplement their historical and Technique analytical courses, students are required FT 691 Fashion and Textile Internship 2 to complete at least one internship, write Semester 3 a master’s qualifying paper based on FT 653 Costume and Textile Mounting Skills 3 original research, and take an active role FT 654 Exhibition: Planning and Interpretation 3 in a yearlong course that culminates in a FT 701 Qualifying Paper Seminar 3 professional exhibition at The Museum at Choose any one course from the following: 3 FIT. Students may customize the course of FT 624History of Fashion Journalism and Visual study by choosing their qualifying paper Media topic and their internship location. They FT 625History of American Men's Wear may also select up to two independent FT 631Special Topics study courses with an appropriate focus FT 663Advanced Conservation I on their chosen specialization. In addition, Semester 4 students may transfer up to nine (9) credits FT 626 Modern Textiles: Designers, Makers, and 3 in related coursework from other graduate Markets institutions. FT 655 Exhibition: Practicum 3 Choose any two courses from the following: 6 Graduates of the program find positions FT 623Contemporary Fashion: Research and as museum curators, research specialists, Criticism collections managers and registrars, FT 631Special Topics historic house directors, museum FT 633Advanced Theory: Professional Seminar educators, independent exhibition FT 634Advanced Curatorial: Historic Interiors curators, corporate curators, fashion and FT 664Advanced Conservation II textile historians, costume and textile Total Credits 51 conservators, auction house department Additional Courses

Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice 1 FT 692 Independent Study (1-3 cr.), Internships may be pursued during and MM 701 Maintenance of Matriculation the academic year or during winter or (0 cr.) summer breaks, and require a minimum commitment of 135 hours. Past sites for COMMON REQUIREMENTS internships have included The Museum at All degree programs require that students FIT; the Metropolitan Museum of Art; the maintain a cumulative grade point average Costume Institute; Christie’s and Sotheby’s of 3.0 every semester while enrolled in the auction houses; the Brooklyn Museum; the program. A student is placed on probation Museum of the City of New York; the textile if his or her semester GPA is below 3.0. conservation lab at the Cathedral Church A student is not subject to academic of St. John the Divine; the Cooper Hewitt; dismissal at the end of his or her first Smithsonian Design Museum; the National semester in a degree program. A student Design Museum; the Jewish Museum; the will be dismissed from the college after National Museum of the American Indian; two consecutive semesters with a GPA and the American Museum of Natural below 3.0. A final GPA of 3.0 is required for History. graduation. Current lists of internship opportunities, ADVANCEMENT TO DEGREE CANDIDACY descriptions, guidelines, and procedures are kept on file in the Office of Graduate Eligibility to Attend Commencement Studies. Each student, in consultation Exercises with the faculty internship advisor, makes Candidates for the master’s degree at a formal application for a position, and FIT must have advanced to candidacy if selected, reports directly to a staff before being permitted to attend graduation member at the internship location, who ceremonies. then supervises and evaluates the student’s Degree Requirements work. Students are required to maintain an internship journal, and to write an essay General summarizing their experience. For admittance to degree candidacy, Academic credit cannot be granted for any students must have satisfied all outstanding internship that has not been approved by prerequisites, completed a minimum of 48 the faculty advisor before the internship approved course credits, achieved a final begins. grade point average (GPA) of at least 3.0, completed at least one official internship, Qualifying Paper and had their qualifying paper approved The qualifying paper may take the form by the faculty Qualifying Paper Committee. of a scholarly research paper or article, Students must have advanced to degree an exhibition proposal or catalog, a candidacy before being permitted to attend conservation treatment proposal and report, graduation ceremonies. a grant proposal, a collection survey, or an Internship interpretive program utilizing a variety of formats, including electronic media. The Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice program Students should select a topic whose emphasizes practical, professional research and explication is completely experience, and therefore each student manageable within a single year. When is required to complete an approved completed, a qualifying paper—including, internship. Although only one internship but not limited to, text, footnotes, is required for graduation, students may bibliography, and illustrations—should not choose to serve additional internships for exceed 30 to 40 pages in length. networking opportunities and as aids to professional growth.

2 Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice It is the student’s responsibility to propose FT 522 — History of Western Textiles a topic and to select an advisor from the 3 credits; 3 lecture hours graduate faculty. Written proposals must Examines the history of Western textiles be submitted to and approved by both from antiquity to the early twentieth century, the advisor and the committee before including significant developments in the student may proceed. Students, with the style, technology and function of their advisors, are invited to attend the such materials. Surviving evidence and committee’s discussion of the proposal representations of textiles in the arts to defend and clarify points. Students are and literature are used to examine their encouraged to complete proposals by social and historical context and their the end of their third graduate semester. central economic role in pre-industrial Detailed guidelines are available in the societies. Textiles as works of art and as Office of Graduate Studies. constituents of dress will be presented as expressions of novelty and fashion. Time Requirement for Degree Completion Their designs will be used to trace cultural See Scholastic Standing. continuities that span the societal strata, and the role technological advances play in FT 520 — Fashion Theory I: Art Historical their evolution will be examined. Pattern- and Social Theories of Fashion woven silks, tapestry, embroidery, lace, and 3 credits; 3 lecture hours printed/painted fabrics are covered. This course introduces students to fashion theory and to related critical approaches FT 523 — History of Twentieth Century to the study of textiles and dress. They Fashion read and discuss the foundational authors 3 credits; 3 lecture hours of fashion theory drawn from various A study of western fashion, from the disciplines, and through papers presented Belle Epoque to hip-hop America. The in class, explore ways to test and apply formation and definition of "modern" these theories in the analysis of historical fashion and the influences of modern art, and contemporary fashion. internationalism, postmodernism, the world wars, designers, Hollywood and FT 521 — Fashion History through the advertising will be considered. A term paper Nineteenth Century and presentation on 20th-century costume 3 credits; 3 lecture hours or accessory, with analysis of its historical Surveys the history of fashionable dress or cultural influences, and development of in the West from the late Middle Ages a theory regarding its importance to 20th- through the nineteenth century, with the century culture, is required. Students take goal of surpassing the simple chronicle of an interdisciplinary approach and examine changing styles to explore the meaning of the full range of sources available through fashion in the broadest possible context. their readings and assignments. Lectures Students will define fashion, its relation are supplemented by use of the costume to the arts and function in society, and collection at The Museum at FIT. determining when its history begins, using an interdisciplinary approach that examines a range of scholarly resources, including literature of the field and primary sources. Lectures supplemented by extensive use of the costume collection at The Museum at FIT. A midterm presentation interpreting fashion in a work of art, a 10-15 page research paper, and an object-based final examination are required.

Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice 3 FT 524 — Dress and Textiles in World FT 552 — Museum Theory and Practices Cultures 3 credits; 3 lecture hours 3 credits; 3 lecture hours Explores the role of museums and examines Examines important manifestations of workplace issues particular to these dress and its context in a selection of world institutions. Through class discussions cultures. The historical range spans two and presentations by senior museum millennia, and the settings range from professionals (including administrators, nomadic societies and rural communities curators, educators, and editors), students to urban court and merchant groups. The expand their knowledge of how museums impact made on dress by issues such as function. Topics to be considered include religious/symbolic beliefs, ideas of gender, the leadership role of museums in the and design and technology occupies history of style and taste; how museums a central position in the methodology collect, conserve, and interpret objects; suggested for this course. Aspects of public expectations of museums today; and material culture will be included, particularly trends that influence professional thinking when examining development of dress and practice. Students also examine the typologies, conditions for lifestyles, use of modern technology in collections and textile production and its artifacts. management and exhibition planning. Emphasis will be placed on examples FT 561 — Fiber and Fabric: Identification typically encountered in the collections of and Analysis museums and other cultural institutions. 3 credits; 2 lecture and 2 lab hours FT 541 — Proseminar: Critical Writing, Investigates the components and structures Research Techniques, and Documentation of textiles examining polymers, fibers, Methods yarns, and weave structures. The chemical 1 credit; 1 lecture hour and physical nature of individual fiber types In this course students encounter the is studied at the polymer level; methods for resources available for fashion and textile fiber identification are introduced. Students studies at FIT, in New York City and will become familiar with the polarizing online, and learn to use them through a light microscope and photomicroscopy. series of interrelated research and writing Examination of all standard fabrics assignments designed to build the skills as generic structures and as specific/ of scholarly practice in a multidisciplinary vernacular-technique materials. Particular field. emphasis on technical and analytical FT 551 — Collection Management Skills skills, and descriptive vocabularies for 3 credits; 3 lecture hours application in labs, cataloguing assignments Covers all aspects of the physical handling and exams. The historic framework and practices and storage techniques necessary interaction between the requirements of for the proper management of textile technology and design are also included. and costume collections. Assessment Students will be expected to perform and planning, archival material choices, professional identifications of fibers and environmental control, lighting, custom- textiles from the Fashion and Textiles Study built supports and boxes, packing Collection. and shipping issues, risk evaluation, crisis control, and current collections management software systems used in institutions will be investigated. Collections assessment methods and an introduction to the use of electronic media in collections care will be covered.

4 Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice FT 562 — Conservation Practices: Theory FT 625 — History of American Men's Wear and Technique 3 credits; 3 lecture hours 3 credits; 2 lecture and 2 lab hours Explores the history of men's clothing Provides both the scientific foundation and fashion from the seventeenth to the and the basic technical skills useful in twentieth centuries. Traces the development designing and carrying out preservation of the modern suit with reference to its plans for collections management, and European roots, the influence of world simple conservation treatments for cultures and the impact of media on it, as historic textiles, costumes, and accessory well as its relationship to women's dress. materials. Building upon their prerequisite Includes illustrated lectures of garments documentation and handling skills, and sample books in the costume and students are taught to recognize signs of textile collections of the Museum at FIT, the deterioration and design basic preventive Costume Institute, and Special Collections conservation procedures. Includes of the Gladys Marcus Library. documentation, vacuuming, realignment, FT 626 — Modern Textiles: Designers, rolling/folding, stitching (for both repair and Makers, and Markets mounting), wet and dry cleaning, dye-to- 3 credits; 3 lecture hours match techniques, and the identification and Investigates contextual relationships of understanding of problematic materials. textiles in terms of their creation, marketing, Using objects from the Graduate Studies and reception. Includes structural and collection, students are asked to perform stylistic analysis, as well as biographical and document simple treatments and research. Historical and contemporary handling procedures in a standardized and textiles are examined and a methodology of professional manner. analysis and documentation that specifically FT 623 — Contemporary Fashion: includes interdisciplinary approaches is Research and Criticism developed. The rapid, global, technological 3 credits; 3 lecture hours advances of the twentieth century are In this course students research and study given particular attention as they pertain to fashion from circa 1990 to the present, traditional, industrial, and contemporary with the goal of writing insightful fashion textile practices. criticism. Through readings, discussions, FT 631 — Special Topics writing assignments based upon historical 0 credits; 0 lecture hours and visual research, and critiques, they An advanced, third-semester research characterize fashion on the world's runways seminar focusing on a topic of special and streets, and assess the environmental interest or import to the field of fashion or and social impacts of the fashion industry. textile studies. Requires original research FT 624 — History of Fashion Journalism leading to a meaningful outcome, such and Visual Media as publication in a professional-level 3 credits; 3 lecture hours magazine, journal. Use of the collections This course covers the history of fashion of The Museum at FIT and the Special journalism, including illustration and Collections of the Gladys Marcus Library photography, from its origins in the is strongly encouraged. The process of Renaissance to the contemporary fashion selecting an appropriate publication target media, concentrating on the most influential will be discussed. Topics can range from writers, artists and photographers from focused studies of a specific historical the mid-nineteenth through the twentieth periods, designers, fashion trends, regional centuries. areas, types of accessories, or specific influences, to themes including the history of fashion photography, the history of fashion theory, examinations of cultural and consumer studies, material culture, or related decorative arts. Term paper required.

Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice 5 FT 631A — Special Topics: A Study of FT 631C — Special Topics: Scientific Surface Embellishments Research and Readings in Conservation 3 credits; 3 lecture hours 3 credits; 3 lecture hours FT 631B — Special Topics: Contemporary FT 631D — Overview of Modern Fashion; Research and Criticism Tapestries: Literature, Techniques, and 3 credits; 3 lecture hours Conservation methods This course is a research and writing 3 credits; 3 lecture hours seminar focusing on contemporary fashion, This course is a reading/research seminar. defined as circa 1990 to the present, While the subject to be investigated will with the goals of studying it in historical change from year to year, the goals of perspective and writing insightful fashion the course remain constant. An advanced criticism. Through readings and research seminar in the students’ 4th term should participants will attempt to characterize present a significant challenge and require fashion on the world's runways and streets, original research that leads to a meaningful identifying key practitioners and subcultural outcome, such as would be expected styles and addressing important issues for research needed for a professional such as the environmental and social level conservation journal or professional impact of the fashion industry. All of the proceedings publication. Research skills research will be presented in class and for a conservation based investigation assignments submitted on the course are different than that for an art historical management system. study. This course will focus on the special research skills and conservation resources needed to compile appropriate references for publication of a paper or creation of an original poster concerned with modern tapestry. Areas of investigation will include but not be limited to such topics as a study of the chemistry of materials used, the physical breakdown pathway typical of tapestry woven art, a historical compilation of treatment choices, special techniques used in the creation of modern tapestry, and appropriate conservation methods. An annotated bibliography as well as several presentations will be expected.

6 Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice FT 632 — Advanced Curatorial: FT 633 — Advanced Theory: Professional Acquisitions Theory and Practice Seminar 3 credits; 3 lecture hours 3 credits; 3 lecture hours Studies the role of the curator in the Research seminar focusing on a selected acquisition process and develops written topic of interest within the field of fashion and analytical skills used in the assessment or textile studies. Subject and faculty may and documentation of acquisitions and change from year to year. Topics present a their use in exhibitions. Covers standard significant academic challenge and require collecting processes, including identifying original research that leads to a substantial areas of weakness in a collection; working outcome, such as would be expected with a budget; identifying legitimate sources for inclusion in a professional academic for purchases; collegial collaboration on conference or symposium. This advanced purchases; the role of the conservator in seminar calls upon students to use all they researching objects for purchase; funding have learned thus far in the program to sources; and proposing, describing, and prepare a clear flowing, well-documented presenting an object to your department presentation that answers a vital question chief and/or director. Emphasizes visual as yet unanswered in the field. An abstract analysis of objects and trains students to of the presentation, including bibliography, pick out key characteristics, identifiers, and will be prepared as if the student were flaws at a fast pace. Composition of catalog answering a call for papers. Abstracts will entries and written acquisition rationales be ranked by a panel of readers, including covered. The end of the course focuses the instructor. The results and the typical on developing exhibitions around specific judgment process will be discussed. There collections. will be two rounds of presentations. The first will be a preliminary presentation on the chosen topic, given at the mid-term point, critiqued by fellow students and the instructor. Students will then have the opportunity to improve and revise, for a professional-level presentation at the end of the term. The final set of talks will have an audience of not only classmates but invited outside professionals as well, who will aid the instructor in the evaluation. FT 634 — Advanced Curatorial: Historic Interiors 3 credits; 3 lecture hours In this course, students broaden their understanding of the key European and American decorative arts from the seventeenth through to the early twentieth century. They study decorative art objects and textiles found in American public collections. Material culture, geography, and trade are addressed. Professional museum interpretation and care of objects within historic interiors is covered.

Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice 7 FT 653 — Costume and Textile Mounting FT 663 — Advanced Conservation I Skills 3 credits; 2 lecture and 2 lab hours 3 credits; 2 lecture and 2 lab hours Required for conservation-emphasis Examines the issues and provides practical students; open to qualified curatorial experience in the preparation and mounting students with instructor permission. of dress items, accessories, and flat textiles Provides practical experience in advanced for exhibition. Skills include sketching, conservation treatments, including historical research, analysis of apparel adhesive treatments and advanced structure, draping techniques, customizing support treatments, permanent press- of mannequins to accommodate historic mounts, surface consolidations, re- style and size variations, and specialized warping and re-weaving. Visits to museum supports. Construction of special strainers, conservation labs allows in-depth contact tubular supports, press-mounts, and with specific conservation disciplines, a variety of stitch-supported hanging specifically upholstery, ethnographic techniques covered. All assignments include objects, tapestry, and rugs. Students will use of standard professional documentation select an appropriate object and begin work and photography. Includes general on a conservation-related qualifying paper. introduction to garment construction FT 664 — Advanced Conservation II though lectures and use of both the Fashion 3 credits; 2 lecture and 2 lab hours and Textiles Study Collection and The Required for conservation-emphasis Museum at FIT. students; open to qualified curatorial FT 654 — Exhibition: Planning and students with instructor permission. Interpretation Provides practical experience in advanced 3 credits; 1 lecture and 4 lab hours conservation treatments, including adhesive Focuses on the practical aspects of exhibit and advanced support treatments, surface creation, and on the exhibition as a vehicle consolidations, overlay and underlay for the interpretation and presentation of procedures, and re-warping and re- objects. Research on the topic is undertaken weaving. In addition to several treatment and a preliminary selection of objects is experiments, students will continue work on made. Outside experts provide assistance the required qualifying paper, performing with didactics, labels, brochure copy, and a treatment on the object selected in press releases and help with design issues. FT 663. The treatment must include Lectures, assigned readings, case studies, analysis, condition assessment, treatment class exercises and on-site observations of pre-testing, treatment proposal, photo actual installations included. This course is documentation, time and cost estimates, taken on a Pass/Fail basis. completed treatment and final assessment. FT 655 — Exhibition: Practicum Professional reporting and documentation, 3 credits; 1 lecture and 4 lab hours as well as historical-context research and Using the exhibition theme selected in FT full structural analysis, are required. All 654, students make the final selection of documentation will be assembled in a objects, prepare the narrative materials, portfolio. create a publicity plan, design and participate in the installation, and evaluate the educational program. Outside experts are invited to assist the students as appropriate. This course is taken on a Pass/ Fail basis.

8 Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice FT 691 — Fashion and Textile Internship 2 credits; 2 lecture hours The Fashion and Textile Studies internship is a supervised field experience in a museum, archive, conservation center, library or other suitable organization. This course prepares students to secure positions and guides the completion and documentation of their internship experience. Prerequisite(s): FT 541 and FT 551 and FT 561 and FT 521 and FT 522. FT 692 — Independent Study 1-3 credit; 1 lecture hour Under the guidance of a faculty member, students undertake advanced work, pursue an individual project, or combine both of these activities toward a subject of their choosing. By completing an independent study, a student can begin to specialize in a selected area of interest. Proposals for independent study must be submitted in a timely fashion, and must adhere to the guidelines set by the School of Graduate Studies. FT 701 — Qualifying Paper Seminar 3 credits; 3 lecture hours A research seminar and writing workshop, this course requires students in the MA program in Fashion and Textile Studies to formulate an appropriate topic for their qualifying paper, write their qualifying paper proposal, and develop a detailed outline for the completion of the paper.

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