Cycle Touring in Wales Cycle Touring in Wales

CYCLE TOURING IN WALES CYCLE TOURING IN WALES

About the Author A TWO-WEEK CIRCUIT AND SHORTER TOURS After years of road running and mountaineering wreaked havoc with his knees, Richard Barrett returned to long-distance cycling in his fifties when by Richard Barrett he bought himself a classic British-made touring bike. Now in his sixties, he rides a handmade bike from one of the great British frame makers that have appeared in recent years. Combined with walking, cycling allows him to continue his love affair with the more mountainous parts of the UK, which he first visited as a teenager. Richard spent his career in marketing in a number of multinational organizations in the UK and abroad, but he now lives in West Cheshire and rides two or three times a week with groups on both sides of the border.

Other Cicerone guides by the author Cycling in the Hebrides Cycling in the Lake District Cycling Lôn Las Cymru The Hebridean Way Walking on Harris and Lewis JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Richard Barrett 2019 First edition 2019 ISBN: 978 1 85284 988 7 CONTENTS

Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Map key...... 6 All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. Route summary tables ...... 7 Overview map...... 8 Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com Ride planner from Cardiff...... 10 © Crown copyright 2019 OS PU100012932. Alternative Schedules...... 13 NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI INTRODUCTION ...... 15 Dedication Why cycle around Wales? ...... 18 This book is dedicated to Mr Edward Wood and his orthopaedic team at the Countess How tough is it?...... 21 of Chester Hospital, who had me back in the saddle a mere 12 weeks after fitting me Which direction to ride ...... 21 with a dynamic hip screw to repair a fractured hip that resulted from foolishly venturing Selecting a schedule...... 22 out when there was still black ice about. Don’t worry, I won’t be doing it again. Getting there ...... 26 Travel...... 27 Acknowledgements First and last nights in Cardiff...... 31 When to ride ...... 31 My thanks to Jonathan and Joe Williams of Cicerone for commissioning this book and introducing me to wonderful parts of the country I had never previously Accommodation...... 31 visited. I should also like to thank my copyeditor Victoria O’Dowd, Sian, Verity What to take...... 32 and the production team, who once again made the process such a pleasure. Preparing your bike ...... 33 Eating...... 34 Phones and Wi-Fi...... 36 Emergencies...... 36 Updates to this Guide Waymarking...... 36 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as Maps ...... 37 they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates Using this guide...... 37 that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone. co.uk/988/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise A CIRCUIT OF WALES...... 39 that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and Stage 1 Cardiff to Mumbles...... 40 shops, locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful Stage 2 Mumbles to Tenby...... 52 for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Stage 3 Tenby to Fishguard ...... 62 Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Stage 4 Fishguard to Aberaeron...... 71 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and Stage 5 Aberaeron to Machynlleth...... 79 GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Stage 6 Machynlleth to Porthmadog ...... 87 Stage 7 Porthmadog to Conwy...... 98 Stage 8 Conwy to Wrexham ...... 112 Front cover: The outwardly impressive Caernarfon Castle, which dominates the town Stage 9 Wrexham to Montgomery...... 121 (Stage 7) Stage 10 Montgomery to Hay-on-Wye...... 131 Stage 11 Hay-on-Wye to Chepstow...... 138 ROUTE SUMMARY TABLES Stage 12 Chepstow to Cardiff ...... 151 A CIRCUIT OF WALES CROSS ROUTES...... 159 Cross route 1 Wrexham to Bangor...... 160 Stage Start End Distance Ascent Time* Page Cross route 2 Barmouth to Chirk...... 171 (miles/km) (m) Cross route 3 Welshpool to Machynlleth...... 181 1 Cardiff Mumbles 67/107 800 8–9 40 Cross route 4 Aberystwyth to Knighton...... 191 2 Mumbles Tenby 73/117 1300 10–11 52 Cross route 5 Fishguard to Carmarthen...... 200 Cross route 6 Carmarthen to Abergavenny...... 207 3 Tenby Fishguard 64/102 1200 9–10 62 4 Fishguard Aberaeron 55/88 1500 9–10 71 Appendix A Cycle shops ...... 217 5 Aberaeron Machynlleth 43/69 1100 7–8 79 Appendix B Accommodation...... 222 Appendix C Useful contacts...... 229 6 Machynlleth Porthmadog 48/77 1100 7–8 87 Appendix D What to take...... 231 7 Porthmadog Conwy 57/91 900 7–8 98 Appendix E Welsh words and pronunciation...... 232 8 Conwy Wrexham 65/104 800 7–8 112 Appendix F Further reading...... 234 9 Wrexham Montgomery 50/80 900 6–7 121 10 Montgomery Hay-on-Wye 48/77 1300 8–9 131 11 Hay-on-Wye Chepstow 51/82 1300 8–9 138 Symbols used on route maps 12 Chepstow Cardiff 36/58 200 4–5 151 route hostel 657/1051 12,600 alternative route bike shop

start point railway station CROSS ROUTES Route Start via End Distance Ascent Time* Page ﬁnish point Tourist Information Centre (miles/km) (m) 1 Wrexham Corwen Bangor 72/115 1800 11–12 160 route direction castle or fort 2 Barmouth Bala Chirk 71/114 2000 12–13 171 steep ascent or descent priory 3 Welshpool Llanidloes Machynlleth 54/87 1200 8–9 181

very steep ascent or descent point of interest 4 Aberystwyth Rhayader Knighton 71/114 1800 11–12 191 5 Fishguard Crymych Carmarthen 45/72 1200 7–8 200 ( distance marker in miles 6 Carmarthen Brecon Abergavenny 70/112 1300 10–11 207 GPX files GPX files for all routes can be downloaded free at www.cicerone.co.uk/988/GPX. Route maps are at a scale of 1cm = 200,000cm. All other maps, including town * Time (hrs at 10mph/16kph + 400m/hr). See box ‘Estimating times in hilly terrain’ maps, vary. Please refer to the scale on the map. in the Introduction.

6 7

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Cycle touring in Wales R Overview map

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8 9 CyRidecle touring planner in W alesfrom Cardi Miles from Cardi Miles from Cardi Aberaeron 260 Cardi 0 657 8 Penarth Barry Llanrhystud 380 Rhoose 640 Aberystwyth 280 81 20 Llantwit Major 888 Stage 5 Borth

Bridgend 620 2 miles 360 Pyle Machynlleth 300 8 82 40 4 Stage 1 Port Talbot 887 Tywyn 340 Briton Ferry 600 47 Llyngwyril 320 Swansea 60 43 Fairbourne Barmouth Mumbles 1½ miles Dunvant Stage 6 Llanbedr Gowerton 580 Harlech 320 340 Llanelli 80 47 Penrhyndeudraeth Portmeirion 1 mile Burry Port Porthmadog Kidwelly 560 Garndolbenmaen 300 3 miles Ferryside 360 Carmarthen 100 47 Stage 2 540 Caenarfon 280 Laugharne 380

120 Stage 7 Bangor 82 3½ miles Bethesda Kilgetty 1 mile 520 Llanfairfechan 260 Pentrepoir 1 mile Penmaenmawr Tenby 140 400 Lamphrey Conway Pembroke Llandudno Pembroke Dock 500 Johnston Colwyn Bay 240 Haverfordwest 160 Rhyl 420 84 Broad Haven Prestatyn 480 220 Stage 3 St David’s 180 Stage 8 440 Treﬁn 460 Flint Trefasser 2 miles 200 Goodwick Shotton 200 460 Fishguard 47 82 440 Wrexham Newport Ruabon 180 220 Cefn Mawr 480 85 Cardigan Chirk 420 Sellatyn 5 miles Oswestry 160 455

Stage 4 240 500

New Quay Stage 9 400 Welshpool 140 81 Aberaeron 260 520 Montgomery Miles back from Cardi Miles back from Cardi

10 11 Cycle touring in Wales Alternative Schedules Miles from Cardi Miles from Cardi 7 DAYS 12 DAYS 15 DAYS Montgomery Cardi 0 Cardi Cardi 120 20 Cardi to Mumbles to Swansea 540 to 67 miles 61 miles Knighton 825 40 Carmarthen 900m ascent 900m ascent Presteigne 8–9hr 9–10hr Swansea 60 103 miles Swansea to Stage 10 Mumbles Mumbles 100 1300m ascent Carmarthen Kington 560 825 80 8–9hr to Tenby 44 miles 580m ascent 73 miles 100 7–8hr Hay-on-Wye 8 42 4 miles Glasbury Carmarthen 1300m ascent 10–11hr Carmarthen to 80 120 Carmarthen Pembroke 580 to 45 miles 1110m ascent Tenby Tenby 140 Fishguard 8–9hr Pangelli Pembroke to Fishguard Abergavenny 160 101 miles Pembroke to Trefin 60 46 49 64 miles 2000m ascent 1300m ascent 43 miles 800m ascent Stage 11 600 180 10–11hr 9–10hr 7–8hr Trefin 200 Trefin to New Quay Fishguard Fishguard Fishguard 40 to Aberaeron 56 miles 1500m ascent Chepstow 4 47 49 220 to Aberystwth 11–12hr 620 77 miles 55 miles 1600m ascent 240 2100m ascent Caldicot New Quay 9–10hr New Quay to Borth Aberaeron 260 8–9hr 41 miles 1000m ascent Aberaeron to Machynlleth 20 Aberystwth 8–9hr 640 2 miles 280 43 miles 1100m ascent Newport 47 49 Aberystwth Stage 12 Borth 7–8hr Borth to Barmouth 300 to Machynlleth Machynlleth to Porthmadog 40 miles 800m ascent Caernarfon 7–8hr Cardi 657 0 8 320 48 miles 900m ascent Barmouth 99 miles 7–8hr Barmouth to Porthmadog 340 2000m ascent Caernarfon Miles back from Cardi 9–10hr Porthmadog 50 miles 900m ascent 360 to Conway 9–10hr Caernarfon 57 miles 900m ascent 380 7–8hr Caernarfon Caernarfon to Rhyl Conway 400 to Conway 44 miles 450m ascent Tourist information Hostel Rail station Cycle shop Wrexham 9–10hr Rhyl 420 to Wrexham Antiquity Castle 93 miles 56 miles Rhyl to Wrexham 440 1400m ascent 800m ascent 88 NCR link 7–8hr 46 miles 770m ascent 7–8hr 6–7hr 460 Wrexham Wrexham to Wrexham to 480 Wrexham Montgomery Welshpool to 50 miles 900m ascent 41 miles 770m ascent 500 Hay-on-Wye 7–8hr 6–7hr Welshpool Montgomery 520 98 miles Montgomery to Welshpool to Kington 2200m ascent Hay-on-Wye 45 miles 1300m ascent 9–10hr 540 9–10hr 48 miles 1300m ascent 8–9hr Kington 560 Kington to Abergavenny Hay-on-Wye Hay-on-Wye 36 miles 800m ascent Hay-on-Wye 580 to Chepstow 6–7hr to Abergavenny to Chepstow Abergavenny 51 miles 1300m ascent 600 Cardi 8–9hr 26 miles 700m ascent 87 miles 5–6hr 620 Chepstow to Cardi Chepstow 1500m ascent Chepstow to Cardi 36 miles 200m ascent 640 7–8hr 36 miles 200m ascent 4–5hr 5–6hr Cardi 657 Time hr Time hr Time hr at 14mph (22kph) at 10mph (16kph) at 8mph (13kph) 12 + 700m/hr + 400m/hr + 300m/hr 13 Cycle touring in Wales

INTRODUCTION

Looking north towards Barmouth along the viaduct across the Mawddach Estuary (Stage 6)

When the Wales Coast Path was cre- suggestions in the text on how best ated in 2013, Wales became the first to incorporate them into a tour. The country in the world to have a dedi- resulting circuit provides 657 miles cated footpath that follows its entire (1051km) of wonderful riding that coastline. When coupled with the starts on the waterfront in Cardiff, the already famous Offa’s Dyke National capital city of Wales, and includes Trail from Chepstow to Prestatyn, mile after mile of stunning coastal it forms a 1030-mile walking route landscape before heading back south around the whole of the principality. through the rolling marcher country This guidebook is for those who want along the border. You will ride past to experience a similar circumnaviga- miles of golden sand along the south tion of Wales by bike, following exist- coast in Pembrokeshire, Britain’s only ing traffic-free paths and the quieter coastal National Park; past the historic roads nearest the coast. castles of Cardigan Bay; along the To make a circuit that can be Menai Straight and through the sea- comfortably ridden over a two- side towns on the north coast, visiting week holiday, the Gower Peninsula, some delightful towns and villages Cyclists on the Mawddach Trail near Penmaenpool (Cross route 2) Llyn Peninsula and Anglesey have that benefit from being off the normal been omitted, although there are tourist itinerary.

14 15 Cycle touring in Wales Introduction

Travelling through such wonder- WELSH CHAPELS: THE OTHER ICONIC BUILDINGS OF WALES ful countryside by bike is hugely sat- isfying for those who want to cover Apart from its magnificent castles, Wales’ other iconic buildings are its chap- the miles quickly, as well as those els, and you will see hundreds of examples while cycling through the coun- preferring a more leisurely pace to try. Up until the Toleration Act 1689 was passed, it was illegal for dissenters watch wildlife and explore attractions to meet for worship, so many congregations met secretly in remote houses along the way. There are plenty of and barns. But from the end of the 17th century until the early 20th cen- pretty villages and interesting towns tury, congregations built around 10,000 chapels, often financing their con- where you can top up your energy struction with loans that took decades to pay off. Initially, the chapels were levels in local cafés and find interest- quite plain but once the congregations started to commission architects, the ing shops to replenish your supplies. chapels began to reflect the height of fashion, particularly during the later These towns also provide a good Victorian era when it became quite common to amalgamate all manner of choice of overnight accommodation influences into ornate gable end walls. Many were also rebuilt or remod- and places for dinner, although you elled to accommodate a growing congregation, often through the addition may need to leave the route to find of a gallery that had been cleverly allowed for in the original design. exactly what you’re looking for. Add Some still maintain a thriving congregation but many have been con- to that an impressive collection of cas- verted for residential or commercial use, such as Libanus Chapel in Borth, tles, industrial archaeology, churches, The magnificent red kite is now a which has been turned into a cinema and bistro. Others stand empty and chapels and prehistoric sites along the common sight in many parts of Central strangely silent, waiting for someone to rescue them from creeping derelic- route and you have a ride that you Wales (Image authorised for common tion and potential demolition. See www.welshchapels.org for further infor- will remember for a very long time. usage) mation and an interactive map that provides more details about each of the chapels along the route. Kidwelly Castle from the bank of Gwendraeth Fach (Stage 2) The page opposite shows six chapels of different styles that you will pass while riding around Wales. • Henllan Baptist Chapel (top left), in the Vale of Eywas on Stage 11, was built in 1865 in the Vernacular style with a single door on the gable end. • Blaen-y-Cefn Methodist Chapel (top right), just north of Cardigan on Stage 4, was built in 1808. It was rebuilt in 1837 in the Simple Round- Headed style with separate doors for men and women along the long wall. Traditionally, the men sat in the pews to the right of the minister and the women and children sat in the pews to his left, with the interior layout designed so the minister could see everyone. • Llanfairfechan Methodist Chapel (centre left) on Stage 9 was built sometime before 1897 using corrugated iron. It is still in use and is known locally as ‘Capel Sinc’. • Bryn Seion Methodist Chapel (centre right), near the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct on Stage 9, was built in the Classical style in 1902

16 17 Cycle touring in Wales Why cycle around Wales?

Different types of chapels on the route using locally made red brick. The Grade II listed building has been sympathetically converted into a cycle-friendly café and bistro. • Seion Welsh Independent Chapel (bottom left), situated in Baker Street, Aberystwyth on Stage 5, was built in the Italianate Classical style in 1876 by the Welsh-born architect Richard Owens (1831–1891), whose Liverpool-based practice was responsible for 250–300 chapels, largely in North Wales. Owens was by no means the most prolific of the known chapel architects, though, as his contemporary, the largely self-taught Welsh Independent minister, Thomas Thomas (1817–1888) is reputed to have played a part in the building, restoration or extension of some 1000 chapels throughout Wales. It is thought that he delivered the first sermon in each of the chapels he was involved with. However, after an illustrious career he was forced into semi-retirement when it was revealed that he owned almost 40 properties around Swansea that were used as brothels. • Zion English Presbyterian Church (bottom right), located in Mansel Street, Carmarthen on Stage 2, was built in the Classical style in 1850 by the architect RG Thomas (1820–1883) of Newport. It remains in use and is now a Grade II listed building.

As the route is circular you can near the route. The additional cross start and finish your tour at any point routes, which all start and finish at along the way. Detailed information towns served by rail, mean you can is provided on the rail services you also plan shorter tours that are easy can use to get to and from the towns to get to without using a vehicle. A chosen for the start and finish of each number of shorter tours are suggested stage, most of which are on the rail in this guide, but you can easily use network. Although it is always best the detailed information provided to to follow the advice of the particular plan your own route to fit the time you train operator, taking bikes on trains have available. in Wales is typically far easier than in other parts of the UK, so you can leave the car at home. WHY CYCLE AROUND WALES? Convenient access by rail also A circumnavigation of Wales cov- means you can split a circumnaviga- ers the entire country from the tion across two or more tours start- industrial south to the sea cliffs of ing and finishing at stations on or Pembrokeshire, passing through wild

18 19 Cycle touring in Wales Stage 1 – Cardiff to Mumbles Queen Street

Winds or STAGE 1 CARDIFF/CAERDYDD R o a d L Cardiff to Mumbles e C w e is n t R ra o l a L d in k

Start Cardiff Central Railway Station (ST 184 759) Lewis Road Finish Below Oystermouth Castle, Mumbles (SS 616 885)

Distance 67 miles (107km) E a s t

Ascent 800m M o o r Time 8–9hr s Curran Road R

o Vanguard Way e

OS maps OS Landranger 171, 170 and 159 e a d

d d

a a d r Refreshments Lots of places to stop at along the route a C o a e P R l n h na t rt Ca r Accommodation Plenty of accommodation of all types in towns, including a a l n e L P i hostels in Cardiff and just off route before Port Talbot n k Curran Road

Lloyd George Avenue Curran Road Wales can claim to be the world’s first industrialized country with Taf more people in the 1851 population census working in industry than in f E D mb u an m km b agriculture. This stage passes through the coastal towns that were once the e a n l C t l or s

p R

or R

o a o

powerhouses of industry – as well as through the local seaside resorts that ti a

on a

d d Ro grew to provide recreation for the workers. The route makes use of NCN ad

trails wherever possible and follows many miles of local shared-use paths. Cl are nc e The final 13 miles around Swansea Bay are entirely traffic free. Ro ad James Street t n e m k n a Roald Dahl Plass b m Penarth was a E Head south following the blue signs for local route 4 e c n popular holiday down Lloyd George Avenue towards Cardiff Bay. Ride re Stuart Street la C destination during the through Roald Dahl Plass past the Wales Millennium Avondale Road Victorian era when it Centre, around the bay and across Cardiff Barricade to Cardiff e ad Bay was promoted as ‘The Penarth (3/64 miles).3 lan sp E or Garden by the Sea’. ds in Out in the Bristol Channel are the islands of Flat W Cardiff Barricade Cardiff Holm, which traditionally was part of Wales, and N Steep Holm, which belonged to England. Once they were fortified to defend shipping using local ports but both are now protected nature reserves 0 ¼ mile and sites of special scientific interest. 0 0.5km

40 41 Cycle touring in Wales Stage 1 – Cardiff to Mumbles

signs for the Wales Coast Path along this section of the Before World War I route but none for NCN 88. However, as long as you Barry Docks were the keep heading west along the shared-use path, you can- busiest coal port in not get lost.4 the world employing Follow this path across the complex junction by the about 8000 women Premier Inn hotel and along Barry Island link road oppo- and 10,000 men. site and then turn right along Heol Finch. Turn right after passing under the railway and Harbour Road and follow the path along the coast before turning left along The Parade. Once around the bend and heading away from the coast, this road becomes Lakeside and then Romilly B 4 Park Road. Follow it around to the2 right where there is Map continues 6 a fine bistro, ride under the railway2 bridge and uphill on page 45

Llandaff St Bride's- R iv super-Ely e St r Peterston- Fagans T super-Ely a f Canton f St Ely A4161 CARDIFF/CAERDYDD r George's Caerau ive 2 Ely R 423 Parked up below the Turn right at the roundabout at the end of Penarth A Downs impressive steel and Portway and follow NCN 88 alongside the marina before A4 St Nicholas A Leckwith 8 Twyn-yr-odyn 4 Bonvilston 0 A4160 copper front of Wales turning left up the serpentine shared-use path that pro- 5 St Lythans 0 Millennium Centre vides an easy ascent to the town centre. Ride through the Llantrithyd Llandough Wenvoe Michaelston-le-Pit (Canolfan Mileniwm town centre and past the railway station to join a largely A St Andrews 4 Dinas Cymru) in Cardiff Bay traffic-free path that ends at Cosmeston Drive. 2 Major Powys 2 PENARTH

Turn right, then left and follow a shared-use path 6 Murch Llancarfan alongside the B4267. Ride through Sully (8/59 miles) Merthyr Lower Dyfan 5 5 Penarth and then turn left along the A4055 using the sections of 5 Palmerstown 0 shared-use path that have been created so far. Go straight A4 Penmark 7 6 Lavernock 2 on at the next roundabout, cross the carriageway and Sully 4 BARRY ! B B4265 Cardiff Swanbridge follow a shared-use path alongside Ffordd-Y-Mileniwm Airport (

through Barry Docks (11/56 miles). There are plenty of Porthkerry Barry Rhoose Island

Flat Holm N m CardiffPenarth Barry Llantwit Major Bridgend Port Talbot Swansea Mumbles 200 Bristol Channel 100 0 2 miles

0 0 2 4km Steep Holm 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 miles

42 43 Cycle touring in Wales Stage 1 – Cardiff to Mumbles

around the perimeter of Romilly Park. Turn left along Park The two lighthouses at Nash Point Road and follow it through to Porthkerry Country Park where there is a popular café and the first waymarker sign for NCN 88 for many miles. Continue along the shared- use path behind the café and ride under the railway viaduct to join a narrow lane that ends at a junction where a group of attractive thatched cottages sit uncomfortably opposite the perimeter fence of Cardiff Airport. Turn right following a waymarker sign for NCN 88 towards Llantwit Major and ride around the perimeter of the airport. Turn right again near the cargo terminal and follow a shared-use path across the A4226, through Penmark (16/51 miles), then Llanmaes (22/45 miles) and Cross down to Llantwit Major (24/43 miles). Llanharan Inn Bryncae Talbot Pen-y-fai A473 Green Llantwit Major grew up around Cor Tewdws, a mon- Pencoed Llanilid Pontyclun astery and seminary with over 2000 students, includ- BRIDGEND/PEN- Brynsadler Miskin Llanharry ing seven sons of English princes. It is believed to Y-BONT AR OGWR M4 ad Laleston 2 have been founded sometime around 395, making 2 cp St Mary 2 it the oldest school in Great Britain. It was destroyed Hill 4 A 3 A 48 47 Treoes by Vikings in ad987 and then closed in 1539 dur- A A Graig Penllyn Ystradowen Merthyr 4 Llangan Mawr Ewenny 8 Llansannor ing the Dissolution of the Monasteries. The remains Corntown of the monastery are hidden somewhere below Ogmore Pen-y-lan Maendy 4 Penllyn Welsh St 2 St Illtyd’s Church in the middle of the village. 45 Donats B Colwinston Despite rapid growth to accommodate person- Aberthin Map continues nel from the local RAF base during the 20th cen- St Bride's Major A LlysworneyCOWBRIDGE 48 on page 46 tury, the town retains much of its medieval char- Llanblethian acter, making it a desirable place to live for those cu Llandow St Hilary Llantrithyd Llandough The American tycoon working in Cardiff and Bridgend, particularly since Wick The Herberts Llanmihangel B St Mary Church William Randolph the railway station reopened in 2005. 42 Sigingstone 65 B Hearst purchased Broughton 4 2

7 bu Monknash Llancarfan

0 the medieval Follow NCN 88 down Burial Lane alongside the Flemingston Llanbydderi St Donat’s Castle, 15th-century town hall and out into the countryside. Llanmaes Marcross Eglwys- now the Atlantic Ride through St Donat’s (25/42 miles) to Marcross (26/41 LLANTWIT MAJOR Brewis Boverton Penmark Nash Point bp St College, in 1925 miles).3Although the route runs close to the coast it sel- N St Donat's Athan B4265 Cardiff and visited annually dom feels like it. If you want to get closer, or perhaps just Gileston East Airport until 1936, typically stop for a break at the clifftop café, turn left down the West Aberthaw Aberthaw with an entourage lane by the inn in Marcross and ride for 1 mile down to 0 2 miles of film stars and Nash Point where the twin towers of the 19th-century, 0 2 4km famous politicians. Grade II listed Nash Lighthouse used to provide a clear

44 45 A B 4 4 4 3 7 2 4 Cycle touring in Wales 4 Stage 1 – Cardiff to Mumbles 4 9 B

1 Aberdulais Rhydding Tonna Glyncorrwg set of ‘leading lights’ to guide vessels around the danger- NEATH/CASTELL- ous sandbar below the ever-crumbling limestone cliffs. NEDD Return to the main road and ride through Monknash Skewen Tonmawr Pentre- Blaengwynfi (27/40 miles), Broughton (28/39 miles) and Wick (29/38 dwr B428 Cymer miles) to Ewenny (32/35 miles) where NCN 88 currently 7 Duffryn Briton Croeserw 4 Llandarcy Ferry A4107 peters out. Turn right towards Bridgend in the centre of In the first half of ep Caerau the village and then after 150 metres, turn left along New the 20th century Pontrhydyfen Dyffryn Inn Road. After 1½ miles, turn left along the A48 for 300 the three-storeyed Pwll-y-glaw Nantyffyllon metres (perhaps resorting to the pavement if the road is maltings in Broughton

Baglan 6 Bryn busy) and then turn right at the unsigned crossroads and was run as a welfare 28 Cwmafan 4 B follow this lane across the A473 and along an unnamed hotel, providing B4282 MAESTEG low-cost holiday PORT lane with a weight restriction. At its end, turn left and TALBOT Goytre Garth quickly left again at a staggered crossroads. Follow this accommodation for Aberafan Taibach narrow lane for just over a mile going straight across the miners’ families from Pont Rhyd-y-cyff Llangynwyd first junction before turning right at a junction around a nearby coalfields. N eu Margam A triangular patch of grass. Ride downhill passing under the 4 2 4 M4 and over the railway to Pyle (38/29 miles). 1 A dp 40 Cross into Croft Coch Road at the traffic lights and The 850-acre country 0 2 miles 63 Margam pass under the railway. Turn right at its end and follow park contains the Coytrahên 0 2 4km Country Park waymarkers for NCN 4 around in a loop to meet the A48. remains of an A Turn right and follow the shared-use path for 1 mile, then abbey, a Cistercian M4 B 4 8 4 Tondu 2 turn right towards Margam Discovery Centre. Follow monastery and 8 du Aberkenfig 3 Kenfig Hill Cefn NCN 4 around the perimeter of Margam Country Park Margam Castle; Cribwr Cefn B428 Cross there is also a neo- Mawdlam Pyle 1 (41/26 miles), negotiating a pair of narrow iron gates where you may need to remove any panniers to squeeze Gothic house built North Cornelly through.4After you emerge from the country park, turn by local industrialist South Cornelly right in Margam Village, follow the shared-use path across Christopher Rice Lalestoncp the M4 motorway and then the A48 and continue through Mansel Talbot Tythegston Margam (45/22 miles) to Port Talbot (48/19 miles). (1803–1890). A4 Nottage 06 8 41 A Merthyr Newton Mawr The name Port Talbot was first given to the docks PORTHCAWL Ogmore in honour of Christopher Rice Mansel Talbot of 4 52 B4 Margam Castle, who sponsored their development Ogmore-by-Sea in the 1830s. Eventually, the name was applied to the conurbation formed when the villages of Baglan, Margam and Aberafan merged into each other. Steel-making started in Port Talbot in the first decade of the 20th century, but the town did not become synonymous with steel until the Abbey Map continues Works opened in the 1950s. It soon became the on page 49

46 47 B A 6 4 4 9

2 7 2

4 ycle touring in ales tage9 ardiff to umbles

C W 4 S 1 – C M 1 B M4 Penllergaer Rhydding largest steel producer in Europe, employing a A 3 48 Llangyfelach GORSEINON 3 Loughor 8 NEATH/CASTELL- B 0

4 labour force of 18,000. Today there are just 4000 6 Llansamlet

4 A 4 A48 4 NEDD

e 4 B 8 employees at the site and like many steel produc- w Landore 9 Skewen Cadle 7 a T 6 r 7 Pentre- tion facilities in the UK and Europe, it has an uncer- B 0 e 46 Fforest-fach 4 iv 1 dwr 295 Gowerton 20 R 2 B428 tain future. B4 A 4 7 A Briton Waunarlwydd Llandarcy Ferry Three Follow NCN 4 signs left across the railway on Crosses ep Oakwood Road, then turn immediately right up Cramic SWANSEA/ABERTAWE fu Way joining a path that leads under a flyover across the Killay Sketty Baglan 6 A4241 and along Riverside Road, with the River Afan to Upper 28 Killay 4 the right and the docks to the left. Cross the footbridge B

and follow the shared-use path around the roundabout 8 1 PORT 1 Black Pill If you need to make into Afan Way.3Follow waymarkers for NCN 4 across 4 TALBOT A Swansea Aberafan up lost time, continue the carriageway and over the blue footbridge into Victoria 6 West Cross 3 A B44 Bay Kittle 4 along the shared- Road. Turn left into Newbridge Road at the traffic lights Bishopston 0 N 6 eu Newton 7 A use path that runs and follow this road around to join a shared-use path that 4 2 4 alongside Afan Way runs along the front at Aberafan (51/16 miles). After 2 The Mumbles 1 to rejoin the route at miles follow signs for NCN 4 back inland and ride along 0 2 miles Baglan Energy Park. Purcell Avenue, Handel Avenue and Seaway Parade to join a shared-use path alongside the A4241 by Baglan 0 2 4km Energy Park. Continue along the shared-use path over the M4 and railway and left alongside the A48. Other than Cross the roundabout, railway and River Neath on for 200 metres in the Swansea suburbs, the final 13 miles the outskirts of Briton Ferry (54/13 miles) and then fol- of this stage are entirely traffic free. low NCN 4 under the M4, over the A483 and alongside Fabian Way, past mammoth distribution warehouses, to SWANSEA Swansea (60/7 miles), where the shared-use path swings In its heyday Swansea was a major centre for copper, earning it the nick- right behind the park and ride car park. name Copperopolis. The combination of local coal and easy sea access to After riding alongside the Fabian Way for 1½ miles, the copper mines in Devon and Cornwall made Swansea the ideal location turn left along the eastern bank of the River Tawe, follow- for smelting, and during the 18th and 19th centuries the city boomed, and ing signs for NCN 4 towards Mumbles. Cross Sail Bridge 60% of all the copper ores imported into Great Britain were smelted locally. and ride around Swansea Bay to Black Pill (65/2 miles). Although George Borrow wrote that the town had ‘some remarkable edi- At weekends this stretch of path is very popular with rec- fices, spacious and convenient quays, and a commodious harbour’, he also reational cyclists, joggers and dog-walkers, so progress said it was ‘large, bustling, dirty and gloomy’. may be slow. If you are going straight on to Stage 2, turn Today the heavy industry has largely gone and the economy of the city right at the aptly named Junction Café and follow NCN relies on the service sector, such as education, health, finance services and 4 towards Llanelli. But if you are heading into Mumbles public administration. The UK’s Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency is one for an overnight stay or simply a break, continue along of the biggest employers locally. the shared-use path around the bay for the final 2 miles of this stage.

48 49 Cycle touring in Wales Stage 1 – Cardiff to Mumbles

Turn right by the church and ride around Caswell Bay (2/25 miles) and into Bishopton (3/24 miles). Turn left along Pyle Road and then after another mile turn left along the B4426 towards Port Eynon. Ride through Kittle to Pennard (6/21 miles) and then turn right into Linkside Drive and follow it to the junction with the B4118 in the centre of Parkmill (5/22 miles). Turn left and ride through Penmaen (7/20 miles) and Nicholaston (8/24 miles) and then turn left by the gatehouse of Penrice Castle. Ride through Oxwich (10/17 miles), then turn left towards Horton. If you are staying overnight at the hostel in Port Eynon, turn left when you meet the A4118. Otherwise turn right, ride through Scurlage (15/12 miles) and then turn left towards Burry Green. Turn right towards Llanrhidian in Burry Green (18/9 miles) and ride through Oldwalls to Llanrhidian (21/6 miles). Turn left into the village, follow this quiet lane along the coast to Crofty Looking across Mumbles marks the start of the wonderful Gower (23/4 miles) and then turn left along the B4295 and ride Swansea Bay from Peninsula. For the sake of brevity, it is left out through Penclawdd (25/2 miles). Join the shared-use path above Mumbles Pier of this tour. However, you could stay over in as you approach Gowerton and turn left at the traffic Mumbles for an extra night and enjoy a day with- lights on Pont-y-Cob Road to rejoin the route, following out panniers, visiting some of its famous beaches. waymarker signs for NCN 4. Mumbles itself is a vibrant seaside village with plenty of shops, restaurants and pubs that attract RIDING ANTICLOCKWISE day-trippers from all over the region. Food fans If this is your last day and you think you might miss should try the local oysters. But if you are not so the train you are due to catch in Cardiff, remember keen on seafood, you will be spoilt for choice you can always curtail your ride early and catch a when it comes to ice cream parlours. train into Cardiff at one of the many stations along this stage. Adding in a loop around the Gower Peninsula The 27-mile loop around the Gower Peninsula starts at Mumbles and rejoins the circular route at Gowerton, adding 20 miles to the circumnavigation. Start at the mini roundabout on the front below Oystermouth Castle and cycle inland along Newton Road towards Caswell. After two-thirds of mile, turn left into Newton Road. Ride up the short hill, turn left at the top and then turn immediately right into Nottage Road and drop down to join Caswell Road.

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