Taylor Trench Coat ______

18 inch Doll

What’s Inside ______

Getting Started 4 Printing Your Pattern 5 Settings 5 How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers) 6 Printing the Instructions 6 Taylor Trench Coat 7 Sizing 7 Materials & Tools 7 Cutting Instructions 9 Fabric Tips 12 Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet 13 Sewing Instructions 16 Preparation 16 STEP 1 – Optional Front Yoke 16 STEP 2 – Front Coat Pieces 18 STEP 3 – Optional Welt Pockets 21 STEP 4 – Optional Patch Pockets 31 STEP 5 – Back Coat Pieces 35 STEP 6 – Optional Back Yoke 38 STEP 7 – Optional Shoulder Tabs 41 STEP 8 – Joining Front and Back Coat Pieces 42 STEP 9 – Optional Sleeve Tabs 43 STEP 10 – Belt and Sleeve Loops 44 STEP 11 – Coat Sleeves 46 STEP 12 – Setting in Coat Sleeves 51 STEP 13 – Collar 54 STEP 14 – Lining 57 STEP 15 – Joining the Coat and Lining 62 STEP 16 – Back Coat Vent 64 STEP 17 – Back Lining Vent 65 STEP 18 – Joining the Coat and Lining at the Vent and Hem 66 STEP 19 – Finishing the Sleeves 70 STEP 20 – Optional Hood 74 STEP 21 – Belt 79 STEP 22 – Front Buttonholes and Buttons 80 Pattern Pieces 83

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Email [email protected]

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Product Sales & Licensing Information ______

This pattern is copyrighted 2017 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com.

Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we’d love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it’s up to you.

The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.

Best of luck and happy sewing!

Getting Started ______

Need help? Have a question?

Join our Facebook Group at https://www.facebook.com/groups/mummykinsandme/

You can get help, ask questions, share your tips and shortcuts and share your creations! We’re a friendly bunch and we love helping out and seeing what you’ve made. 

Before you get started…

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Make sure to wash, dry and press your fabric before you cut out your pattern pieces. Fabric can often shrink by significant amounts on the first wash. To avoid your beautiful creation ending up an inch too small or twisted out of shape, pre-wash the fabric now before you get started. It might be a pain if you just want to start straight away, but a bit of prep now means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons or anything they could remove, choke on or get caught on. Never let them sleep in garments with ties on and use caution if you are at all unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Printing Your Pattern ______

Settings

The pattern is printed at the back of this booklet. It is designed to be printed on A4 sized paper at 100%. If you wish to print on US Letter paper, please download the US Letter size version. Make sure that the “fit to page” option is not checked on your printer options.

On the first page, you will find a 1-inch square test box. Print this page first on its own and check the measurements of the square. Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, you can print the rest of the pattern pages.

This is a “no-trim” pattern which means you don’t need to trim the edges off around the rectangles unless you wish to. Once you’ve printed your pattern, tape the rectangles together using the diagram here for reference, overlapping the circles in each corner. Each page is marked in the bottom left corner. The numbers go across; the letters go downwards. The first row of pages will be A1, A2, A3 and so on. The row below that B1, B2, B3 and so on.

The sizes are differentiated by both different line styles, and different colors. It is up to you whether you wish to print in color, or in black and white.

Print at 100% (no scale), in black and white or color

For pattern pieces only, print pages 83 to 94 (12 pages)

How to Print Only the Size You Need (Using Layers)

This pattern uses layers so you can print only the sizes you want. Open the pattern in Adobe Reader (not your internet browser). Click on the “layers” button on the very left of the screen. Unselect all sizes except the size you want. Leave the “Common Elements” and “Splitting Layer” on. Then print!

NOTE – In this example only size 18-24 months would print.

Printing the Instructions

The instructions are designed for everyone from beginner upwards, so there are a LOT of pictures throughout the instructions. For this reason, some people do not print these in full (however you can if you wish!). If, however, you want to print a short quick-glance cheat sheet (no photos, intermediate / advanced level instructions), you will find this on page 13-15.

Taylor Trench Coat ______

Difficulty Level = Intermediate

There are lots of options within this trench coat, to decide which ones you’d like, have a look at the chart in the Cutting Section.

The different options you choose will change the difficulty level. The welt pockets are an intermediate to advanced level sew. They are quite fiddly, but ever so satisfying! The patch pockets are far simpler and more of a beginner to advanced beginner level technique.

Sizing

This pattern has been designed to fit an 18 inch doll. There are also matching child newborn to 12 years and ladies XXS to 5XL sizes available in separate pattern files from our website www.rebecca-page.com.

Materials & Tools

Main fabric - The exterior of the trench needs to be a medium weight woven with a bit of structure, like twill or a heavy cotton. You could also use a waterproof (such as PUL, nylon, or ripstop) or a heavy-duty cotton/poplin or gabardine drill. A light-weight wool or wool blend is also great.

Lining fabric - The interior needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. - Suitable fabrics including lining, cotton, quilting cotton, satin, duchess satin. Fabrics with less drape (e.g. cotton) will be easier to handle and sew. - Fabrics such as silk can be used for the lining but are only recommended for someone with experience using them as lining. - You can also use a thicker woven fabric such as flannel or fleece, however, please check the finished garment measurements whether the garment may be quite fitted on you. If yes, then you would need to size up to use a thicker fabric such as these.

Do not use a knit/stretch fabric for any part of the trench.

Fabric Estimates (in yards)

Coat Length (shorter) Trench Length (longer) Optional Each Hood additional optional piece Main Fabric Lining Main Fabric Lining Main Lining Main Lining

115 150 115 150 115 150 115 150 45 in 45 in 45 in 45 in cm / cm / cm / cm / cm / cm / cm / cm / or or or or 45 in 60 in 45 in 60 in 45 in 60 in 45 in 60 in 60in 60in 60in 60in wide wide wide wide wide wide wide wide wide wide wide wide Dolls 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25

* All measurements in yards. If you are using a print that requires matching, a directional print or a fabric with nap you may need additional fabric.

You will also need: • Buttons or snaps – For the dolls size approximately ½ inch / 12.5mm wide. Some of the lovely people who initially tested this pattern are lucky enough to have great local suppliers of buttons. However, given the quantities needed for this pattern, if you don't have somewhere local, you may find it most cost effective to search on Amazon or eBay for a good bulk button deal. Quantities needed are: - Front Fastenings • Trench length x12 buttons • Coat length x10 buttons - Optional – plus x 7 for the cuffs (2), shoulders (2), welt or patch pockets (2) and center back (1) - Optional – plus x 4 to attach the hood (or you could use snaps for this) - Optional – plus x 1 if doing front yoke flaps • Optional Buckle – The belt is designed to be tied at the waist, but you can also add a buckle if you prefer. The gap in the center of the buckle needs to be ½ inch for dolls. • Optional Hood – - Cord for the hood drawstring. Check the length for your size in the cutting section. - You will also need 2x grommets. However, you could create a buttonhole instead if you do not have grommets. - Additionally, you can use 2x drawstring clamps, locks, or toggles to go on each end of your drawstring (or just tie a knot if you prefer). • Optional Iron-on interfacing – This is just for the collar so ¼ yard will be more than sufficient. • Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, needle, scissors, measuring tape, ruler and a point turner or blunt object such as a knitting needle or chopstick. Serger/overlocker not required.

Cutting Instructions ______

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Checklist:

There are two length options and several other options you will need to select from (see line drawing in the printing section).

Main Coat Options (pick one)

Length option Approximate Length Pattern pieces required Trench Length Between the knee and Main mid-calf. A traditional • 2x Front (1x mirror image pair) trench coat style • 2x Front Facing (1x mirror image pair) length. • 2x Side Front (1x mirror image pair) • 2x Back (1x mirror image pair) • 2x Side Back (1x mirror image pair) • 2x Sleeves (1x mirror image pair) • 2x Under Sleeves (1x mirror image pair) • 4x Sleeve Tab • 1x Top Collar • 2x Collar Band • 1x Loop Lining • 2x Front Lining (1x mirror image pair) • 2x Back Lining (1x mirror image pair) • 2x Sleeve Lining (1x mirror image pair) • 2x Under Sleeves (1x mirror image pair) • 1x Under Collar

Coat length Approximately mid Same as above but to the ‘short’ cutting lines. thigh. This is a shorter, coat-length.

Optional Extras (pick any, all or none!)

Option Description Pattern pieces required Hood A detachable hood. Main Attached under the • 2x Hood (1x mirror image pair) collar with snaps or • 1x Hood Patch buttons. Within the Lining hood, there is an • 2x Hood Lining (1x mirror image pair) optional hood cord. • 1x Hood Patch • 1x Hood Facing

Pockets The welt pockets are Welt Pockets (welt, patch or none) beautiful but tricky. • Main They are advanced - 2x Welt Pockets level sewing but oh so • Lining rewarding! The patch - 4x Welt Pocket Lining pockets are easier and more beginner level. Patch Pockets • Main - 2x Patch Pockets - 2x Patch Pocket Flap • Lining (or Main, if preferred) - 2x Patch Pockets - 2x Patch Pocket Flap

Yoke Detailing There is a front yoke Front yoke on each shoulder, and • Main a back yoke option. - 2x Front Yoke (1x mirror image pair) These give a • Lining traditional ‘trench’ - 2x Front Yoke Lining ---(1x mirror image style. pair) Back yoke • Main - 1x Back Yoke - 1x Back Yoke Facing • Lining - 1x Back Yoke Lining

Belt and Belt Loops A belt and belt loops Main to hold it on. • For child/doll sizes - 2x Belt • For ladies sizes - 4x Belt pieces (2x mirror image pairs) • Belt loops – 1x Belt Loop piece NOTE – The belt is designed to be tied in a knot or used with a buckle. If you wish to tie the belt in a bow, you will need to cut the pieces longer.

Shoulder Detailing A shoulder tab. This is Main a traditional trench- • 4x Shoulder Tab (2x mirror image pairs) style detail. Hanging Loop A small loop at the Main center back inside of • 1x Hanging Loop the coat to hang it up on coat hooks with.

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric in half. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Fabric Tips ______

Tips for sewing with heavy and specialty fabrics such as wool or waterproof

- If you are using a heavy fabric, and/or leather for the outer or contrast of the coat, make sure to change your needle to a fresh new needle. It really does make a difference and will help pierce the fabric easily as you sew. It can also help stop threads bunching up underneath as you sew as the fabric will be cleanly ‘sliced’ by the needle. - Use a speciality needle. There are leather and thick fabric needles out there, and many machines come with them. They might look the same at first glance, but they are shaped differently and help cut through the fabric easily. - Heavy, thick or speciality fabrics can “slip” under your presser foot quite easily. They can sometimes move around and make sewing quite difficult. The presser foot can slip off the fabric, your machine might get stuck sewing in one place and not want to get traction and move forward and/or the thread might bunch up under the fabric and make knots. If you find any of these problems happening, change your presser foot to a walking foot if you have one. If you don’t have one, try a Teflon coated foot or a zipper foot. The different base and shape can help control the fabric better. - If you don’t have a walking foot, or Teflon coated presser foot, alternatively try sewing with tissue paper layered between your fabric and your presser foot. It’ll help with traction so you can sew evenly and then you’ll be able to tear the tissue paper off after sewing. - For very thick fabrics, lengthen your stitch length slightly. - Practice on a scrap of your fabric first to check you are happy with your sewing machine settings. - Use clips rather than pins. Pins sometimes leave marks and holes on thicker/specialty fabrics. Test this on a scrap before sewing or cutting out. If it does, use pattern weights to hold the pattern pieces in place while you cut out, and use clips to hold your fabric together instead of pins while you sew. - To ensure a professional and polished look, make sure to press your seams after each step. Always test on a scrap of fabric first to find out the best temperature for your fabric. You may find that the iron leaves a mark on many speciality fabrics (such as wool or faux leather). With some waterproof fabrics, it may melt the fabric at high heats. To help, use low heats and try using a pressing cloth dampen with water or steam and press on and off until your cloth is dry. NOTE - Pressing is when you apply pressure with your iron on the fabric repeatedly. Ironing is moving the iron back and forth on the fabric. A tailor ham or roll can also help preserving your fabric because its rounded shape allows you to put pressure with the iron only on the seam. - You might want to use a stronger thread, especially when top stitching. - Go slowly. It really does help!

Good luck & have fun!

Sewing with speciality fabrics can be really fun and rewarding (and just as easy as normal fabrics) once you’ve got your sewing machine set up how you want it.

Quick-Glance Cheat Sheet (full step-by-step tutorial starts on next page) ______

½ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

Preparation – 1. Transfer pattern markings 2. Apply interfacing to Under Collar and 1x Collar Band 3. Sew darts in back lining

Sewing – 1. Optional Front Yoke – Right sides together, sew curved edge of each set of Front Yoke pieces. Trim and clip seam allowances. Turn and press. Topstitch around curves. Add a buttonhole where indicated. 2. Front Coat Pieces – With right sides together, sew Left Front piece to a Front Side piece. Press seam open. Repeat with Right Front piece and remaining Front Side piece. If adding yoke, match shoulder seam of yoke with each set of sewn front pieces. Baste at necklines, shoulders, and armscye. 3. Optional Welt Pockets – Transfer welt pocket markings to sewn front pieces. a. Fold Welt Pocket piece in half, right sides together. Pin and sew both short ends. Clip seam and corners. Turn and press well. OPTIONAL: Sew a buttonhole in the middle. On the wrong side, mark ¼ inch from raw edge. Right sides together, place each Welt Pocket piece on the Front pieces. Pin in place and sew on marked line. b. Lay one Pocket Lining piece, right side down, butting the straight, raw edge up against the raw edge of the Welt Pocket. Mark and sew ¼ inch from raw edge, just the length of the Welt Pocket piece. Place the mirror image Pocking Lining piece, right side down, on top of the Welt Pocket piece, aligning raw edge. Mark and sew ¼ from raw edge, the length of the Welt Pocket piece. c. On the back of the Front Coat piece, mark and carefully cut a straight line halfway between the two sewn lines, stopping ¼ inch before the end of the stitch lines. From the right side, pin back the seam allowance, and cut diagonal lines from the end of your current cut to the end of the stitch lines. Do not cut through the stitches. d. Pull the Pocket Lining pieces to the wrong side and press well, including the little triangles left after you cut the pocket open. Line up the pocket lining pieces, right sides together. Pin the triangle to the lining piece that is not sewn to the Welt Pocket. With a zipper foot, sew the triangles in place and all around the pocket. Sew around the pocket a second time to reinforce the seam. Press. Sew down the short ends of the welt, either by machine or by hand. Optional: add a button that matches with your buttonhole. e. Repeat with the second welt pocket. 4. Optional Patch Pockets – a. Place two Patch Pocket Flap pieces right sides together and sew, leaving a 2-inch gap. Clip corners, turn, and press. Topstitch around entire flap. Insert a buttonhole. b. Right sides together, sew main and lining Patch Pocket pieces together, leaving a 2-inch gap. Clip corners, turn, and press. Topstitch only the top edge of the pocket. c. Using the pocket placement markings, place wrong side of Patch Pocket on right side of Front Coat. Sew around sides and bottom. d. Place Pocket Flap ½ inch above Patch Pocket, sew top edge. Sew on a button. Repeat for second Patch Pocket. 5. Back Coat Pieces – Sew Left Back piece to Left Back Side piece. Press seam open. Repeat with Right Back and Right Side pieces. Pin back pieces right sides together. Mark ⅜ inch past the diagonal vent

cut line. Sew from the neckline to mark. Press the seam open from neckline to an inch above the vent. 6. Optional Back Yoke – Right sides together, starting at the center point, pin Back Yoke Lining with Back Yoke Facing. Stitch, dropping your needle in the center point to turn. Clip the point and press the seam allowance toward Back Yoke Lining. Right sides together, Lining with Facing and the Back Yoke, sew along the V. Clip the point, turn, press, and topstitch the V. Add a buttonhole. Baste Back Yoke on top of Back Piece at armscye, shoulders, and neckline. Sew button at center back, aligned with buttonhole. 7. Optional Shoulder Tabs – Right sides together, sew long sides and pointed tip of two Shoulder Tab pieces. Clip, turn, press, and topstitch. Add a buttonhole. Repeat for second set of Shoulder Tab pieces. 8. Joining Front and Back Coat Pieces – Align and sew shoulder seams, right sides together. Press seam open. Optional Shoulder Tabs: Open Coat, right side up and baste shoulder tabs at shoulder seams. Sew buttons on shoulder seams. Sew side seams, right sides together. Press open. 9. Optional Sleeve Tabs – Right sides together, sew long sides and pointed tip of two Sleeve Tab pieces. Clip, turn, press, and topstitch. Add a buttonhole. Repeat for second set of Sleeve Tab pieces. 10. Belt and Sleeve Loops – Fold strip like double fold bias tape and topstitch closed. Cut the strip into five pieces that are 1 ¾ inches long each for dolls sizes. On each piece, fold and press short ends under ½ inch. Align and sew short ends for 3 belt loops. Put 2 sleeve loops aside. 11. Coat Sleeves – a. Optional Sleeve Tabs: Align raw edge of Sleeve Tab in between notches on Over Sleeve piece. Baste and repeat with other sleeve. b. All Options: Mark 1 inch past top of vent. Sew Over Sleeve to Under Sleeve from sleeve head to mark. Press seam open, including vent. Clip seam allowance of Over Sleeve. Fold Over Sleeve Vent on top of Under Sleeve Vent. Then fold Over Sleeve Vent back on itself to match up with the seam allowance. Press. Press a memory hem of 1 inches on bottom of sleeve for dolls sizes. Unfold and sew open edge of sleeve, right sides together. Press seam open and refold memory hem. Align and sew short ends for 2 sleeve loops per pattern placement. 12. Setting in Coat Sleeves – Match notches, ease each sleeve into the Coat and sew. 13. Collar – a. Right sides together, sew around the short ends and top, curved edge of the Top Collar and Under Collar pieces. Clip curves, trim seam allowance, turn, press, and topstitch, leaving the bottom open. b. Layer one Collar Band, right side up, collar, right side down then the other Collar Band piece right side down to sandwich the collar between the band pieces. Pin in place. Sew from one short end, around the long end, at the raw edges of the collar through the other short end. Clip corners, trim seam allowance, turn, press, and topstitch the collar stand. OPTIONAL: Decorative stitching is a lovely addition to the collar stand. c. Match the center point of the collar stand and the neckline of the Coat. Pin from center to edge of collar stand. Baste with a ¼ inch seam allowance. 14. Lining – a. Right sides together, sew each Front Lining piece to a Front Facing piece. Press the seam open. Pin Back Lining pieces right sides together. Mark ⅜ inch past the top of the vent. Sew from neckline to the mark. Press the seam open, stopping 1 inch above vent. b. OPTIONAL: Fold your hanging loop piece like double fold bias tape and topstitch closed. Align each end of loop ½ inch from center back, matching raw edges. Sew in place with ¼ inch seam allowance. c. Right sides together, align, and sew shoulder and side seams. Press seams open. d. Right sides together, sew each Lining Over Sleeve and Lining Under Sleeve from sleeve head to notch. Press the seam open, including the vent. Press ½ inch memory hem. Open hem, align and sew from sleeve head to bottom of each sleeve, right sides together. Press seam open. Match notches, ease each sleeve into the Coat and sew.

15. Joining the Coat and Lining – Press main Coat hem under 1 inch for dolls sizes and lining hem under ½ inch. Starting at the center back and center collar, align and pin main and lining right sides together across the neckline, with the collar sandwiched between the layers, and down both center front seams. Starting at the hem of one center front, with the hems folded up, sew the pinned section. Clip corners, turn, and press well. 16. Back Coat Vent – With Coat facing right side up, unfold bottom hem and fold it right sides together around the vent. To the left of the vent, mark a line from fold to raw edges 1 inch from vent. To the right, do the same at ¼ inch from vent for dolls sizes. Sew these lines, turn the corners and press all the way up the vent. The left side of the vent should be folded in line with the center back seam, the right side will protrude past the seam. 17. Back Lining Vent – Repeat the same steps you did for the Coat vent, switching the 1 inch to the right side of the vent, and ¼ inch on the left for dolls sizes. 18. Joining the Coat and Lining at the Vent and Hem – With lining right side up, line up and pin main and lining vents. With left pieces on top of right, fold the extra fabric at the top under to encase the raw edges. Press well, pin, then edgestitch the top of the vent in place. Slipstitch the rest of the vent as well as the bottom hem of the Coat. 19. Finishing the Sleeves – With lining right side up, match up and pin the corners of the lining and main vents. Starting at the bottom of the Over Sleeve vent, slip stitch the vent, then the hem of each sleeve. Sew a button on the sleeve that matches with the Sleeve Tab buttonhole. 20. Optional Hood – a. Right sides together, match up one Hood piece and Hood Patch piece at the notch and each end. Ease together and sew. Repeat with other Hood piece. Press seams open. Repeat these steps for lining pieces. b. Insert grommets or buttonholes on Hood Facing. Right sides together, sew Hood Facing to Hood Lining. Press toward the lining. c. Right sides together, align and sew Hood to Hood Lining, all the way around raw edges, leaving a 2-inch gap for turning. Turn and press. d. Make a mark 1 inch from the edge of the hood on the bottom of each side. Starting in the middle of the neckline, topstitch ⅛ inch from bottom edge, to one of the marks you made, turn and sew with a 1 inch seam allowance around the front of the hood. When you get to the other mark, turn and topstitch with the ⅛ inch seam allowance back to where you started. e. Insert buttonholes per the pattern markings. Sew buttons on the collar that match up. Insert drawstring and finished ends as desired. 21. Belt – Right sides together, sew both long ends and one short end of Belt pieces. Clip, turn, and press. Fold in raw edges at unsewn short end, press and topstitch all the way around the Belt. OPTIONAL: add additional topstitching lines as we did for the Under Collar. 22. Front Buttonholes and Buttons – Choose which side will be on top and sew buttonholes as per pattern markings. Sew buttons on the front, per pattern markings. The trench length uses all markings. For the coat length, ignore the bottom set of markings.

Sewing Instructions ______

½ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

NOTE – The instructions are the same for each of the ladies, child’s and doll’s trench coats. The only difference is the ladies requires a dart in the preparation step. You will notice a difference in the shape of some pattern pieces though. The tutorial has been photographed using child pieces.

Preparation

Transfer pattern markings – Transfer all pattern markings from the pattern pieces to your fabric.

Interfacing – Apply iron-on interfacing to the Under Collar and 1x Collar Band (the one that will be the inner collar band, touching the neck) using the manufacturer’s instructions. You do not need to apply interfacing to the collar or other collar band.

For best results, the interfacing should be placed on each facing piece and begin ironing from the center to the outside of the yoke to avoid wrinkles. Make sure do a test patch on a spare piece of fabric, and use your interfacing manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the interfacing goes on smoothly with no ‘bubbles’ in it.

TIP – Trim half the seam allowance (¼ inch) off the interfacing before ironing it on. This reduces bulk in the seam allowance and allows the garment to sit flat.

STEP 1 – Optional Front Yoke

If you are doing the yoke detailing, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 2.

1.1 Match two Front Yoke pieces, one main fabric and one lining, right sides together and sew along the curved edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

1.2 Repeat with other two Front Yoke pieces.

1.3 Trim seam allowances to reduce bulk and clip the curves, then turn both yokes right sides out and press well.

TIP – You can either use pinking shears to trim and clip the seam at the same time (see the top photo on the left), or regular scissors to trim and then snip small triangles out of the curve (see the bottom photo on the left). Either way, you are trimming and clipping to reduce bulk and allow the fabric to sit flat when you turn it through in the next step. Make sure to only clip approximately ¾ of the way into the seam allowance. Do not clip all the way in or you risk creating a hole.

1.4 Topstitch around the curves approximately ⅛ inch from the edge.

1.5 Add a buttonhole where the pattern marking indicates on both yokes. The buttonhole will point diagonally into the yoke.

1.6 Open your buttonholes by placing a pin through one end of the buttonhole and using a seam ripper to open up each buttonhole.

STEP 2 – Front Coat Pieces

Note – The child and doll pattern pieces are straight as pictured in this step. The ladies front seam, however, is a curved princess seam. This means one pattern piece is more curved than the other over the bust. You ease them together and this creates a shape in the bust area so it fits well. For the ladies pattern pieces, you will need to pin at the top of the seam, skip the curve, then pin from the bottom upwards, easing the fabric in around the curve. As you sew, go slowly over the curve and stretch/ease the fabric in under your presser foot. Watching the video in the sleeve setting in step may help if you get stuck sewing this curve. This will also apply later when assembling the back pieces.

2.1 Line Left Front piece with one of the Front side pieces right sides together.

Sew along the long side using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open

2.2 If you are doing the child’s or doll’s version, skip to step 2.3.

If you are sewing the Ladies version you will be sewing princess seams at this step. You will be easing the two pieces together at the seam. After sewing the seam, you may need to clip into the seam allowance to allow the seam to lay well.

Use the very point of your scissors for maximum control. Snip half way only into the seam approximately every 1 to 2 inches, along all curved sections of this seam.

2.3 Repeat steps 2.1-2.2 with the Right Front piece and other Front Side piece.

2.4 If you are not doing the yoke detailing, skip to step 3.1.

If you are doing the yoke detailing, place the Left Front piece right side up and lay the Left Front Yoke piece right side up on top of it, matching the raw shoulder edges.

Baste at neckline, shoulders, and armscyes ¼ inch from the edge.

Repeat with Right Front and Right Front Yoke pieces.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before. It is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if

needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance so you don’t see them in the final garment,

but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

STEP 3 – Optional Welt Pockets

If you are doing the welt pockets, follow the steps below. Otherwise skip to step 4.

3.1 Transfer the pattern markings for the welt pockets to the two front pieces. To do this, pin the two front pattern pieces to the front pieces matching the raw edges to the edge of the pattern.

On the pattern, there is a rectangle shape with an open side, this is the final placement of the welt pocket.

Stick a pin through each corner of the welt marking, making sure the pin is going through the pattern and the fabric.

Lift the pattern up and make a small mark at each pin. Remove the pattern piece.

NOTE – The welt part of the pocket will get placed on these markings. The top edge of the pocket will be open for you to slip your hand inside.

3.2 Fold the Welt Pocket piece in half, right sides together, and pin on the two short sides.

Sew the two short sides using the ½ inch seam

allowance.

3.3 Clip the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk.

3.4 Turn the Welt Pocket piece right sides out and press well. Be sure to use a point turner (or a blunt object such as a knitting needle or chopstick) to poke the corners out.

Sew a buttonhole in the middle of the welt if desired.

3.5 Decide which side of your welt pocket will be facing out when finished (if you are using a printed fabric). On the wrong side mark a line ¼ inch from the raw edge.

Lay one front piece right side up and place your welt pocket on top of that piece right side down. The corners of the raw edge will match up to the two marks that were transferred from the pattern.

See the photo to the left with the red lines. These are the original pattern markings. The raw edge of your welt pocket should line up with the bottom of the marking.

It may look odd but the welt pocket will be flipped up and onto the markings later.

3.6 Pin in place and sew on the marked line (¼ inch from the raw edge of the pocket).

3.7 Lay one Lining Pocket piece right side down with the raw edge butting up against the raw edge of the Welt Pocket piece.

The Lining Pocket should be facing up on top of your garment. Again, it will look odd but this is correct. The pocket will be turned down and inside the garment shortly.

Mark a line ¼ inch from the raw edge of the lining pocket, pin in place. The line should only be as long as your welt pocket (not the full length of the pocket).

3.8 Sew on the marked line, sewing only the length of the Welt Pocket piece.

Do not sew into the seam allowance of the pocket.

3.9 Take the other Lining Pocket piece and mark a line ¼ inch from the raw edge on the wrong side. Lay this piece on top of the Welt Pocket piece, right side down.

This pocket should be pointing down the garment.

The raw edges of both Lining Pocket pieces should be butting up against each other.

3.10 Sew on the marked line; this should be directly on top of the stitching that attached the Welt Pocket to the front of the Coat.

Do not sew into the seam allowances of the Lining Pocket piece.

3.11 On the back of the front Coat piece, your two lines of stitching should be ½ inch apart.

Draw a line down the middle of these two lines of stitching stopping ¼ inch before the end of the stitching (see the top photo on the left).

I’ve drawn lines on the second photo on the left so you can see. The blue dashed lines are the stitching you did in steps 3.8 and 3.10. The red line is where you

need to mark and cut.

Using the tips of your scissors, carefully cut on the marked line only.

3.12 On the right side of your Coat, pin back the seam allowance of the Lining Pocket pieces and the Welt Pocket piece.

Next, we will open up the corners of the pocket opening. See the second photo on the left. Cut at the red markings diagonal from your first cut in step 3.11.

Cut two diagonal lines from each end of the cut line to the end of the stitching (see the red markings). Be careful not to cut through the stitches!

3.13 Pull the Lining Pocket pieces through to the wrong side of the front Coat piece and press well.

There should now be a gap in between the two pocket pieces.

3.14 Press the little triangles open and flat.

3.15 Lay the Lining Pocket pieces right sides together and pin. Pull one over towards the other. Align the raw edges. Do not worry about the pocket laying flat at this point.

Pin the little triangle to the Lining Pocket piece that is not sewn to the Welt Pocket Pieces (the first right sides together Pocket Lining piece we sewed).

3.16 Using a zipper foot, sew the triangle in place at both ends, then sew around the Lining Pocket pieces. Press the whole pocket well.

3.17 Stitch around the pocket a second time in the seam allowance. This will reinforce your pocket stitching so it can take the weight of items being placed in here without the stitches breaking (e.g. phone, keys, hands, little person’s treasures!).

3.18 The last step is to stitch down the flap on the welt so you can slip your hands in your pockets nicely and the whole pocket is hidden and smooth.

To secure the Welt Pocket on the front of the Coat, you can either machine stitch it down, or hand stitch.

Hand stitching is the traditional method and will mean the stitches are hidden. If you wish to hand sew, stitch X-style from the wrong side catching the underside of the welt so that your stitches are not seen from the front. X stitches are simply small X’s where you catch the fabric slightly on the front of the fabric but are really strong on the underside of the fabric. Sew these sturdy stitches on the entire length of both short sides of the welt.

Alternatively, if you prefer, machine stitch the edges down.

If you inserted a buttonhole in the welt pocket, sew a button on the front piece that matches up to the buttonhole.

Repeat Steps 3.1 to 3.18 for the other welt pocket.

STEP 4 – Optional Patch Pockets

If you are doing the patch pockets, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 5.

4.1 Lay Patch Pocket Flap pieces right sides together and pin. Sew around the flap using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-inch hole for turning.

Clip the corners and curves.

4.2 Turn and press well, ensuring all the raw edges are tucked inside.

Topstitch around the entire flap ⅛ inch from the edge.

4.3 Insert a buttonhole in the center of the flap.

4.4 Lay the Patch Pocket main and lining pieces together and pin.

Sew around all sides using a ½ inch seam allowance and leaving a 2-inch hole for turning.

Clip the corners and curves. Turn and press well, ensuring the raw edges are all tucked inside.

4.5 Topstitch the top of the pocket only ⅛ inch from the edge.

4.6 Lay the Front pattern piece on top of your Front piece. Stick a pin through the top corner of the pocket marking on the pattern and transfer this mark to the Front piece. The top outside corner of the Patch Pocket will go on this mark.

Pin the Patch Pocket onto the Front piece.

Your patch pocket should be straddling the front and side front seam (it should not be entirely on the front piece only or it will be in the way of the buttons).

NOTE – The chevron pattern on the fabric in the photo is purposely mismatched so you can see where the dot is in relation to the seam.

4.7 Sew around the sides and the bottom of Patch Pocket at ⅛ inch attaching it to the Front.

Do not sew across the top of the pocket.

4.8 Place the Patch Pocket Flap on top of the Patch Pocket with the top of the flap ½ inch above the top of the pocket and pin in place.

Sew over the topstitching on the top of the flap to attach it to the Front.

4.9 Sew a button on the Patch Pocket.

Repeat steps 4.1 – 4.9 for the other patch pocket and front.

STEP 5 – Back Coat Pieces

5.1 Take the Left Back piece and the Left Back Side piece and line them up right sides together and sew along the long, straight side using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.

5.2 Repeat with Right Back and Right Back Sides pieces.

5.3 Lay the two back pieces right sides together and pin.

Make a mark ⅜ inch past the diagonal cut for the vent.

5.4 Sew from the neckline to the mark you just made.

5.5 Press this seam open from the neckline until about an inch above the vent.

Do not press the vent open.

STEP 6 – Optional Back Yoke

If you are doing the yoke detailing, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 7.

6.1 First, we need to assemble the Back Yoke Lining and facing together.

Get the Back Yoke lining and back yoke facing. You do not need the back yoke for this step.

Lay the Back Yoke Lining right side up and lay the Back Yoke Facing right side down.

Begin pinning in the middle so that the top point of the Facing is matched up with the bottom point of the Back Yoke Lining.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

When sewing them together, when you get to the middle point, leave your needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the pieces, making sure the facing is flat.

6.2 Clip the point and press the seam up towards the top of the Back Yoke Lining.

Your Back Yoke Lining with the facing attached should now be the same size and shape as your Back Yoke.

6.3 We will now join the assembled back yoke lining to the back yoke.

Match the Lining and Facing with the Back Yoke right sides together and sew along the V only using a ½ inch seam allowance.

6.4 Clip the point, turn, and press.

6.5 Topstitch the V ⅛ inch from the edge.

6.6 Add a buttonhole.

6.7 Lay the Back piece right side up. Place the Back Yoke right side up on top of the back piece.

Baste ¼ inch from the edge at the armholes, shoulders and neckline.

6.8 Sew a button on the Back piece that matches up to the buttonhole.

STEP 7 – Optional Shoulder Tabs

If you are doing the shoulder tabs, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 8.

7.1 Lay two shoulder tab pieces right sides together and pin.

7.2 Sew around the two long sides and the pointed end using a ½ inch seam allowance. Leave the short straight end unsewn.

7.3 Clip the seam allowances and corners, turn and press. Be sure to poke the points out fully.

7.4 Topstitch around the two long sides and the pointed end ⅛ inch from the edge.

7.5 Sew a buttonhole near the pointed tip, starting just inside the topstitching.

Repeat steps 7.1 – 7.5 with the other two shoulder tab pieces to make a second shoulder tab.

STEP 8 – Joining Front and Back Coat Pieces

8.1 Lay the Back piece right side up. Lay the two Front pieces right sides down on top of the back piece, matching up the shoulders and pin.

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance and press the shoulder seams open.

8.2 If you are not doing the shoulder tabs, skip to step 8.4.

If you are doing the shoulder tabs, lay the Coat pieces open right sides up. Pin the shoulder tabs on the shoulder seam and baste at the armscye ¼ inch from the edge.

8.3 Sew a button on each shoulder seam that matches up with the buttonhole on each shoulder tab.

8.4 Match up the side seams of the Coat and pin. Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance and press open.

STEP 9 – Optional Sleeve Tabs

If you are doing the sleeve tabs, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 10.

9.1 Lay two of the Sleeve Tab pieces right sides together and pin.

9.2 Sew around the two long sides and the pointed ends using a ½ inch seam allowance. Be sure to leave the short straight side unsewn.

9.3 Trim the seam allowances to reduce bulk and clip the corners.

9.4 Turn the Sleeve Tabs right sides out and press well. Be sure to poke out the pointed ends.

9.5 Topstitch around the two long ends and the pointed end ⅛ inch from the edge.

Sew a buttonhole near the pointed end where the pattern marking indicates.

Repeat steps 9.1 – 9.5 with the other two sleeve tab pieces.

STEP 10 – Belt and Sleeve Loops

10.1 Fold the strip over in half and press. Open the strip up and fold the bottom raw edge wrong sides together to meet the fold and press. Fold the top raw edge wrong sides together to meet the fold and press. Fold the strip in half and press. The strip should now be ⅜ inch wide.

10.2 Edgestitch down both long sides of the folded strip ⅛ inch from the edges.

10.3 Cut the strip into five pieces that are 3½ inches long each for ladies sizes (2½ inches for child and 1¾ inches for dolls).

10.4 Take one strip and fold the ends under ½ inch and press them.

10.5 Lay the loop on the right side of the Coat piece according to the pattern markings for the belt loops and pin in place.

FIT CHECK – Try the Coat on and check if the loops are positioned comfortably for you. If you prefer them higher or lower, move them accordingly.

10.6 Edgestitch both ends of the belt loop to secure it to the Coat. Your stitching should be ¼ to ⅛ inch away from each folded edge.

Go back and forwards a few times to create strength. The belt will pull on the belt loops as you move it and tie/untie it so it is well worth stitching over your stitching a few times to really make sure it’s attached well.

Repeat steps 10.5 to 10.6 for the other belt loops.

STEP 11 – Coat Sleeves

11.1 If you are not doing the sleeve tabs, skip to step 11.2.

If you are doing the sleeve tab, lay one Over Sleeve piece right sides up and lay one Sleeve Tab on top of the Over Sleeve, matching the raw edges of the Sleeve Tab to the notches on the side of the Over Sleeve. The Sleeve Tab should fit in between the notches.

Pin the Sleeve Tab in place and baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

11.2 Lay the Over Sleeve and Under Sleeve right sides together and pin on the raw edge with the vent. Be sure the point of the Under Sleeve is overlapping the raw edge of the Over Sleeve at the sleeve head.

11.3 Make a mark 1 inch past the top of the vent.

11.4 Sew from the sleeve head to the 1 inch mark using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Make sure the sleeve tab is pushed out of the way so it doesn’t get sewn.

Press open seam, including the bottom part which is not sewn.

11.5 Clip the sleeve allowance on the Over Sleeve (the bigger one).

You need to clip quite close to the stitching but be careful not to snip through it!

11.6 Fold the Over Sleeve vent over the Under Sleeve Vent.

This is the one you just snipped the seam allowance of. The bigger piece should now be covering the little piece of the vent.

11.7 Fold the raw edge of the Over Sleeve back on itself so that the raw edge of the Over Sleeve vent lines up with the raw edge of the seam allowance.

Press in place.

11.8 Fold the bottom of the sleeve to the wrong side to create a memory hem that is 1 inch for dolls sizes.

NOTE - A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It’s much easier to do this now, than to try and press the sleeve hem later when the sleeve it stitched into a circle.

11.9 Pin the remaining two loops on the sleeves according to the pattern markings to help hold the Sleeve Tab in place.

Stitch in place.

11.1 Unfold your memory hem and match the two long raw 0 edges of the sleeve right sides together and pin.

Sew along the long edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

If you are doing the Sleeve Tab, the raw edge you basted in place should be sandwiched between these two layers so you are stitching it into place. Be careful to keep the other end of the Sleeve Tab free.

Press the seam open as best you can and re-fold the memory hem.

Repeat steps 11.1 – 11.10 with the other sleeve.

STEP 12 – Setting in Coat Sleeves

When setting in the sleeve, you will notice the sleeve head is larger than the sleeve opening. You will be easing the sleeve in around the seam line, not the raw edges. This is a tailored style sleeve that gives the sleeve a slight puffed appearance at the shoulder that ready to wear coats have.

For tips on how to set in a traditional tailored style sleeve, watch the video on how to ease in the sleeve at the seam here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTE_BtXF2Mo&t=12s. This video is for another one of our patterns (the Kingston Coat), but the technique is the same.

Then follow the steps below:

12.1 Check you have marked from the pattern pieces which is the “front” side of the sleeve (faces towards the front of the body), and which is the “back” (faces towards the back). The sleeves are not symmetrical so this is important.

Turn one sleeve right side out and the Coat wrong side out.

The Under Sleeve section (the smaller of the two sleeve pieces) should be going towards the back of the Coat. Check you have matched the correct sleeve to the correct armhole before continuing.

Check your notch (the small line denoting the center underarm) on the Under Sleeve pattern piece is still marked on your Under Sleeve piece (the smaller one).

If it is not, mark this from the pattern piece again now with a pin.

With right sides together, slide the sleeve in the sleeve opening, matching the side seam of the Coat to the notch on the Under Seam.

Pin at the Coat side seam.

NOTE – Do not fold the sleeve in half to find the center top and bottom. This is not quite where the side seam is. Instead, check your pattern pieces for the notches (little markings) and align these with the side seam and shoulder seam of the coat.

12.2 Hold the pieces so that the Coat is on the bottom and the sleeve is on the top. Pull the Coat piece taut and hold the sleeve relaxed.

Using your thumb, smooth the sleeve fabric so that it is flat and smooth at the seam.

The seam allowance will look rippled, that is okay. It is the section of fabric where you’ll be stitching (½ inch in from the edge) which you want flat.

NOTE – Do not try to align the raw edges, they will not match. It is at the seam allowance (½ inch from the edge) that you need to ease the fabric so it matches.

12.3 Continue to pin around the sleeve head, being sure to pull the Coat piece taut and ease in the sleeve at the seam.

12.4 Go slowly and sew the sleeve into the sleeve opening using a ½ inch seam allowance.

When you sew the sleeve, sew with the Coat on the bottom and the sleeve on top. Hold the pieces so that they are curved up so that the Coat piece stays taut and the sleeve piece is relaxed.

Make sure you are sewing right on the ½ inch seam allowance so that the sleeve fabric is flat and you are not sewing on the rippled part.

Turn the sleeve right way out and check your fabric is smooth around the armhole on both the Coat and the sleeve.

12.5 Turn the sleeve back inside out. Stitch around the armhole again, this time inside the seam allowance ¼ inch from the edge.

The armhole is one of the most stressed areas of the garment when it is being worn (it moves so much and gets pulled, twisted and pressure put on). Stitching this second row of stitches gives it more strength.

Repeat steps 12.1-12.5 for the other sleeve.

STEP 13 – Collar

13.1 Lay Top Collar and Under Collar right sides together and sew around the short edges and the top curved edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Leave the bottom edge open.

Clip curves and trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Turn and press.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from the edge, leaving the bottom open.

13.2 Lay one Collar Band right side up, place the collar right side down on top of it.

Lay the other Collar Band piece right side down so that the collar is sandwiched between the two Collar Band pieces.

Ensure that the interfaced collar band is right side facing with the non-interfaced collar piece.

Pin in place.

13.3 Starting along one short end, sew around the two short ends and the long end of the Collar Band where the raw edges of the collar and band meet.

Be very careful not to catch the collar in your stitching when you stitch the ends. It should only be caught in your stitching along the top.

Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance to remove bulk.

Turn the Collar Band right sides out and press well.

13.4 Top stitch around the sides and top of the collar stand ⅛ inch from the edge.

OPTIONAL - Add collar stand details if desired.

For this one, we have top stitched parallel lines along the collar stand. There’s no practical purpose to this other than to create a pretty detail. You could leave yours plain, stitch the same, or even do an embroidery or swirly detail. Remember the bottom ½ inch of the collar stand will be hidden inside the seam allowance with the coat.

13.5 Find the center of the Collar Band on the raw edge and find the center on the back of the Coat. Match center points with the right sides together. Continue pinning on both sides until the collar is pinned to the Coat.

Baste the collar to the Coat using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

STEP 14 – Lining

14.1 Take one Front Lining piece and one Front Facing piece and lay the long straight edges right sides together and pin. Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance and press the seam open.

Repeat with the other Front Lining and Front Facing pieces.

14.2 Lay the two Back Lining pieces right sides together and pin. Make a mark ⅜ inch past the top of the vent. Sew from the neckline to the mark using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam open stopping 1 inch before the top of the vent, do not press the vent yet.

If you have a business label, attach this now at the center back, 1½ inches from the neckline on the center back piece.

14.3 OPTIONAL Hanging Loop – It’s handy to have a little loop to hang your garment on hooks with. If you wish to add one, fold your hanging loop like double fold bias tape, and top stitch it closed. If you don’t wish to do this, skip to step 14.5.

Fold your hanging loop wrong sides together in half along its length. Press.

Open the loop up again. Fold the raw edges in to meet up at the center fold line you just created. Press.

Fold in half again down the original fold line. Press.

The raw edges should now be neatly tucked inside and the loop should be ¼ of its original width, but the same length.

Top stitch down either edge of the loop to hold in place.

14.4 Fold the coat in half to find the center back. Measure ½ inch either side of the center point and pin each end of the hanging loop. Make sure to match the raw ends so that the hanging loop is attached by the full seam allowance.

Stitch in place ¼ inch from the raw edge. This stitching will be hidden inside the seam allowance on the finished coat. Do not baste but use a normal

stitch. That way you’ll have 2 rows of stitching when the coat is finished to keep it strong and able to hold the weight when hanging.

14.5 Lay the Back Lining right side up and lay the two Front Lining piece right side down on top, matching the shoulders.

Sew the shoulder seams using a ½ inch seam allowance and press open.

14.6 Lay the Front Lining and Back Lining pieces right sides together and pin the side seams.

Sew side seams of lining using a ½ inch seam allowance and press open.

14.7 Take one of the Lining Over Sleeve pieces and one of the Lining Under Sleeve pieces and lay them right sides together on the side with the notch, matching notches. Pin together. The point of the under sleeve should be overlapping the sleeve head of the over sleeve.

Sew from the sleeve head to the notch only using a half inch seam allowance.

Press the seam open including the vent (the section of the sleeve below the notch that you did not stitch). The pressed vent section of the seam should continue on from the seam in a straight line.

14.8 Fold the sleeve hem under ⅜ inch for dolls sizes and press to create a memory hem.

Make sure to keep the seam you created in the last step folded open too so that you get a nice crisp folded edge either side of the little V shaped vent.

14.9 Open the memory hem and match up the two raw edges with the right sides together and pin.

Sew from the sleeve head to the bottom of the sleeve using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam open as best you can and refold the memory hem back up again.

Repeat steps 14.7 to 14.9 with the other lining sleeve pieces.

14.10 Turn the lining sleeves right side out and the lining wrong side out.

Slide the sleeve inside the lining making sure the under sleeve is facing the back of the lining.

As you did with the main coat sleeve, match the notches from the sleeve lining pattern piece to the side seam.

Pin at the side seam.

14.11 Ease the sleeve into the lining at the seam using the method used earlier on the Coat sleeves, matching the notches.

Sew the lining sleeves into the armhole using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 14.10 – 14.11 with the other lining sleeve.

STEP 15 – Joining the Coat and Lining

15.1 Press the bottom hem of the Coat under 1 inch for the dolls sizes.

Press the bottom hem of the lining under ½ inch (same for all sizes).

15.2 Find the center back of the Coat at the collar and the center back of the lining at the neckline.

Place the lining and Coat right sides together matching the center back points.

Pin around the neckline and down the front on both sides of the Coat.

The collar should be sandwiched between the Coat and lining. Your coat and lining should be the same length at the hem.

15.3 Leave the hems at the bottom of the lining and Coat folded up when you sew so they get caught in your stitching.

Starting at the hem on one side, sew around both front sides and the collar using a ½ inch seam allowance. Do not sew along the bottom hem, we will finish this later separately.

Clip corners, turn right sides out and press. Make sure to poke the corners out so you get a nice crisp edge.

NOTE – We are following a traditional trench turning method where we will be hand stitching the hem closed. It gives a great finish and means there won’t be any pulling between the coat and the lining at the hem. It also means we can get a super clean finish to the back vent. There are other methods of attaching a coat to a lining where you also stitch the coat and sleeve hems (as we do in our Amsterdam Coat pattern for example) at the same time. If you prefer this method, do this now. Otherwise follow along for this method.

STEP 16 – Back Coat Vent

16.1 Lay the Coat with Coat facing right side up.

Unfold the bottom hem (1½ inches) and fold it the opposite way, right sides together and pin.

16.2 On the left side of the vent measure over 1 inch for the dolls sizes and make a vertical mark from the fold to the raw edge.

On the right side of the vent measure over ¼ inch for dolls sizes and make a vertical mark from the fold to the raw edge.

16.3 Sew on both of the drawn lines.

Turn the corners and press, making sure to poke out the corners. You shouldn’t need to clip the corners. It should fold neatly and press well.

16.4 Press the fold all the way to the top of the vent.

The left side of the vent you marked first should line up perfectly with the center back seam. The right side of the vent you marked second will not line up and will extend past the center back seam.

STEP 17 – Back Lining Vent

17.1 Lay Coat with the lining facing right side up. Unfold the bottom hem (½ inch) and fold it the opposite way, right sides together and pin.

17.2 On the right side of the vent measure over 1 inch and make a vertical mark from the fold to the raw edge.

On the left side of the vent measure over ¼ inch and make a vertical mark from the fold to the raw edge.

17.3 Sew on both of the drawn lines. Turn the corners and press, making sure to poke out the corners.

17.4 Press the fold all the way to the top of the vent.

The right side of the vent you marked first should line up perfectly with the center back seam. The left side of the vent you marked second will not line up and will extend past the center back seam.

STEP 18 – Joining the Coat and Lining at the Vent and Hem

18.1 Turn Coat so that lining is right side up.

On both sides of the vent, line up the lining and the Coat along the vent and pin.

18.2 Lay the left vent pieces on top of the right vent pieces. There should be some extra fabric on the left lining vent at the top of the vent.

Fold the extra fabric under so it forms a diagonal, encasing the raw edges of the top of the vent.

There should be no raw edges showing. Press well and pin.

18.3 Edgestitch along the top of the vent starting in the middle back seam. You are stitching through all layers here and this diagonal line will be visible on the exterior of the coat.

18.4 Next you will slipstitch the hem from the top of the vent to the front of the Coat on both sides.

This hand stitch does take longer than sewing a visible machine stitch, but it will create a more polished, professional look.

Begin by lifting the lining on the left side of the vent away from the Coat at the vent. From the wrong side of the lining, put your needle through the lining right on the fold so your knot will be inside the lining and not visible.

If you know how to slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’), continue to slip stitch both sides of the vent and along the hem to the front so the entire hem is finished, then skip to step 19. If you do not know how to slipstitch, follow along with the next steps.

NOTE – The following steps are shown on different fabric with contrasting thread to show the steps more clearly.

NOTE – If you do not want to hand sew, you can machine sew the same seam by pinning then top stitching each side of the vent. It does not give the same finish and will show on the exterior of the coat but is much faster.

18.5 Now line your lining vent and Coat vent back up. Holding the fabrics together, stick your needle through just a small amount of the Coat fabric and pull the thread through.

18.6 Put your needle into the fold of the lining fabric passing the needle through the fold a short distance. Pull the thread taut.

Starting directly opposite where your needle came out of the lining fabric, stick your needle through a small amount of the Coat fabric and pull the thread through.

Starting directly opposite where your needle came out of the Coat fabric, stick your needle into the fold of the lining fabric and pass the needle through a short distance.

18.7 Continue until you reach the front of the Coat and repeat for the other side of the vent and hem.

STEP 19 – Finishing the Sleeves

We will now finish the sleeve vent in a similar way to the back vent, however we will line up the edges of the vent differently.

This can be a slightly tricky part to work out so here is a video to help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMM2GhzhQtw

What I would recommend is to watch the video, then go through step 19 and pin the whole sleeve hem & vent in the order suggested along where the blue dotted lines are in the photos. Then come back and read through again, this time slip stitching the lining to the shell (using the same technique as in step 18) as per the blue dotted lines.

There are also photos of the finished sleeve vent towards the end of this step to help.

19.1 Turn the lining right side out and feed the Coat sleeves into the lining sleeves. They will be wrong sides together.

Check the lining & coat are not twisted along the arm.

Bring the fold of the coat sleeve and lining sleeve hem together so they are flush along the hemline.

The coat sleeve vent will have a little flap in it, the lining will not. The two hemlines won’t match up if you just try to pin them together. The coat hemline will be longer than the lining hemline. This is correct.

Find the corner of the coat sleeve vent which is on top (it is on top while your coat is inside out. If your coat was right side out it would be underneath). Match the corner of the lining vent up with this and pin. Keeping the folded edges aligned and all the raw edges tucked inside, pin the sleeve and lining together on this side of the vent only. Slipstitch in place.

NOTE – Do not try to match the seam between the sleeves and upper sleeves. They do not align. Just match the parts of the sleeve vent as shown.

19.2 Keeping the hemlines flush, continue to pin & stitch the coat and lining together.

19.3 Match the Coat and lining the rest of the way around the sleeve at the hem and pin then slipstitch.

19.4 Tuck the corner of the hem of the coat that is sticking out under so it forms a diagonal with the raw edges inside.

Pin then slipstitch along here.

19.5 Continue to pin then slipstitch the lining to the coat sleeve straight upwards.

The lining will not come all the way to the edge. It will come back up the vent before the end of the vent.

TIP – If you have difficulty with this, watch the video to see where you need to align this.

You should now have stitched all the way around the hemline as marked on the photo on the left.

The lining and sleeve will be flush at the hemline and the part of the coat vent that is on the top when the coat is inside out. The lining will not be aligned with the other edge of the coat vent that is on the bottom when the coat is inside out.

All raw edges should be tucked inside.

NOTE – Again, if you prefer you can machine stitch the sleeve hem.

NOTE – The coat is right side out in this photo.

Finished sleeve vent with the coat inside out:

Finished sleeve vent with the coat right side out:

19.7 Sew a button on the sleeve that matches up with the Sleeve Tab buttonhole.

STEP 20 – Optional Hood

If you are doing the hood, follow the steps below. Otherwise skip to step 21.

20.1 Lay one main Hood piece right side up. Lay the main Hood Patch on top of the Hood right sides together matching the notch on the of the Hood to the notch on one end of the Hood Patch (the wider end of the Hood Patch goes near the top of the Hood).

Pin at the notch. Pin the Hood Patch at the other end and then ease in the Hood Patch and pin to the Hood.

This is a very curved seam so depending on your fabric, the easing may need quite a few pins to make it work. Remember to ease the fabric at the seam line (½ inch in from the edge), rather than the raw edge. It doesn’t matter if the raw edges have bubbles or waves in them, it is the seamline where you want the two layers of

fabric to sit flat against each other.

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance and press the seam open.

Repeat with the other main Hood piece to attach it to the other side of the Hood Patch.

TIP - If you are using fabric that has no give to it and you are having difficulty easing in the Hood Patch you can try clipping into the seam allowance before sewing to help ease it in. Be sure not to clip past the ½ inch seam! Another option is to begin easing at the front of the hood where the notches are and trim the leftover from the hood at the neckline if you really need to.

TIP – Sew with the Hood Patch on top as you feed it through your sewing machine. That way you can curve the fabric up a little as you feed it in to help ease the curve.

20.2 Repeat step 20.1 with the Lining Hood and Lining Hood Patch pieces.

20.3 OPTIONAL – If you are adding a hood cord, insert grommets or buttonholes on the Hood Facing according to the pattern markings. If not, skip to step 20.4.

NOTE – There are no markings for grommets on the baby sizes as hood cords aren’t recommended from a safety perspective.

20.4 Pin the top outer curve of the Hood Facing to the Lining Hood with right sides together.

Make sure you’ve got your hood facing the correct way around. The longer, outside curve gets stitched to the hood. The shorter, inside curve is the edge that will go next to your face. Unfold while pinned to double check it looks right.

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam towards the lining hood.

20.5 Turn the Hood wrong sides out and the Lining Hood right sides out.

Place the Lining Hood inside the Hood and pin around all raw edges.

Using a ½ inch seam allowance, sew around all the raw edges, leaving a 2-inch opening in the neckline for turning.

20.6 Clip the corners and curves in the seam allowance.

Turn the Hood right sides out and press.

20.7 NO HOOD CORD - If you are not doing the hood cord, optionally top stitch around the entire hood using a ⅛ inch seam allowance then skip to step 20.8.

HOOD CORD - If you are doing the hood cord, make a mark 1 inch in from the front edge of the hood at the bottom of each side.

Begin in the middle of the neckline and topstitch along the neckline ⅛ inch.

When you reach the mark you made, leave your needle down and lift the presser foot.

Turn your hood and sew along the front of the hood with a 1-inch seam allowance to create the drawstring casing. When you reach the other side of the hood, finish topstitching around the neckline using your original ⅛ inch seam allowance so your stitching matches up.

20.8 Mark 1x button hole at each end of the hood, approximately ½ inch in from the corner. Mark 2x more buttonholes evenly spaced in the middle. All the buttonholes should be along the bottom of the hood (not the diagonal corner).

Stitch buttonholes.

Sew buttons on the collar that match up with the buttonholes.

NOTE – If you prefer, you could use snaps rather than buttons & buttonholes for this step.

20.9 If you are not doing the hood cord, skip to step 21.

If you are doing the hood cord, using a safety pin or bodkin, insert the drawstring into one grommet and feed the drawstring through to the other grommet.

20.10 Tie a knot in each end of the drawstring.

Alternatively, if you’d prefer, you can attach a drawstring clamp, lock, or toggle on each end of your drawstring instead of a knot.

STEP 21 – Belt

21.1 Ladies sizes only – Place one pair of mirror image belt pieces right sides together.

Stitch along the short square side using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.

Repeat for the other pair of belt pieces.

21.2 Lay the two belt pieces right sides together and pin.

21.3 Using a ½ inch seam allowance, sew all the way around, leaving a 2inch gap in one of the long sides for turning.

21.4 Clip the corners, turn and press. Fold the raw edges in to the inside of the belt and press.

21.5 Topstitch around all four sides of the belt.

Optionally – If you wish to, run 4 to 6 straight lines of top stitching lines through the belt (in the same manner as the collar), do this now.

If you have a belt buckle, attach this now to one end

by threading the end over and through the center of the buckle. Stitch to secure.

BABY SIZES 0-24 months – For these sizes, thread the belt into the belt loops, and stitch to secure at each belt loop and at intervals in between. Check the belt is safe and the baby will not be able to get the belt loose or catch themselves on it. If the tails of the belt are too long, trim, fold under and top stitch.

STEP 22 – Front Buttonholes and Buttons

For the Trench Length Option – Use all button and buttonhole markings on front piece. You will have 6 buttonholes down the front edge.

For the Coat Length Option – Ignore the bottom sets of button and buttonhole markings on the front piece. You have 5 buttonholes down the front edge.

22.1 Choose which side on the front of the Coat you want the buttonholes and transfer the markings on that side of the Coat.

Trench Length - You will be sewing 6 buttonholes on one front side of the Coat. The other column of 6 buttons on the coat are not functional, they are just buttons stitched on.

Coat Length - You will be sewing 5 buttonholes on one front side of the Coat. The other column of 5 buttons on the coat are not functional, they are just buttons stitched on.

22.2 Sew buttons on the front according to the pattern markings.

Trench Length: • If you did the front yokes - You will be sewing 13 buttons on the front, including the buttons for the front yokes (one yoke obscures where the 14th button would be so you skip this one). • If you did not do the front yokes – You will be stitch 12 buttons on the front (6 pairs). There is not a pattern marking for the top left button as you look at the pattern piece (it is the one you skip if you did the front yokes). Place this vertically in line with the column of buttons on the left, and horizontally in line with the matching button on the right.

Coat Length: • If you did the front yokes - You will be sewing 11 buttons on the front, including the buttons for the front yokes (one yoke obscures where the 12th button would be so you skip this one). • If you did not do the front yokes – You will be stitch 10 buttons on the front (5 pairs). There is not a pattern marking for the top left button as you look at the pattern piece (it is the one you skip if you did the front yokes). Place this vertically in line with the column of buttons on the left, and horizontally in line with the matching button on the right.

Congratulations, your Taylor Trench Coat is done. Enjoy! ♥

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