Sacred Valley Cusco Machu Picchu Lima the Amazon

the luxury magazine for world travelers Bespoke FALL 2011 Ker & Downey Magazine the Peru Issue the very best of Peru’s hotels, spas, and experiences

inside: sacred valley cusco machu picchu lima the amazon

One cruise ( not to miss ) special report Best Floating Hotel seeing Peru by private On the Amazon plane

top spas and experiences 5 Sacred Valley, Lima, And More

Into the Andes Sacred Valley luxury on the Trail offers culTURe to Machu Picchu of a lifetime

Bespoke Contents FALL 2011 contents

Adventure Health & wellness Private Jet Trek to Machu Picchu The Top 5 Spas of Peru Wings Over Peru Forget the Inca Trail; True Peruvian hospitality So many of Peru’s most memorable images can be try trekking to the Inca takes center stage in the seen from above, and there’s no better way to do it Citadel, Machu Picchu, treatment rooms of these than by private plane with Ker & Downey. on a new route. It’s Peru’s top spas, each with a backdoor trail with luxury unique treatment you Pg. 55 accommodations. won’t soon forget.

Pg. 23 Pg. 29 ection resort co ll ection uxury s, A l A s, a c a r p l hote by: pp lied su p hy Photogra Www.kerdowney.com

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FALL 2011 // INSIDE THE ISSUE facebook.com/keranddowney Inside the Issue l hote o chu picchu pueb l picchu chu m a terr a lied by: ink a by: pp lied su p hy p hotogra

“Leisurely walks through Lima blend GASTRONOMY Cruising the old world and the worldly, with your mind Something’s Sizzling Amazon Sailing in Peru The newest luxury cruise ship and belly brimming of Peruvian hospitality...” See for yourself why to hit the Peruvian Amazon is something’s sizzling in Peru / Page 39 Peru’s culinary scene is making big waves with its such a hot topic right now sleek design and raw philanthropy on this epicurean journey adventure. from Ker & Downey. Love from Lima Partner with Ker & Downey and Lima Tours Pg. 45 Foundation to spread the love while traveling to Peru. Learn Pg. 39 more about the various ways to give back. pg. 11

The travelogue

credits Newsworthy Ker & Downey gets recognition from Spring Magazine 2011 All pricing that has been notated in Travel + Leisure’s World’s Best Awards. pg. 5 Executive Editor: Andrew Littmann this magazine has been listed based Contributing Editors: Becky Bader, David Jones, on double occupancy. Prices may vary Brittan Pittman depending on the time of year as well Letter from the President President David Marek shares Content Writers: Katy Heerssen, Andrew Littmann as other variable factors. his thoughts on all that Peru has to offer. pg. 7 Design: Andrew Littmann, Brittan Pittman For future advertising consideration: © 2011 Ker & Downey Contact Andrew Littmann - 281.371.2500 [email protected] *This magazine is a publication of Ker Our World A comprehensive map of our destinations. pg. 9 & Downey. The views and opinions Photography credits include: expressed in this magazine belong to Piotr Redlinski, courtesy of Redux Pictures, Starwood Ho- contributors and writers and may not Itinerary Ker & Downey’s Inca Explorer is a perfect tels - The Luxury Collection Hotel Paracas, Inkaterra Machu reflect the views and opinions of Ker starting point from which to customize your own Peruvian Picchu, Aqua Expeditions M/V Aqua, Thinkstock Photos, & Downey. Lima Tours Foundation, Starwood Hotels - The Luxury Col- journey of a lifetime. pg. 14 lection Tambo del Inka, Orient Express Hotel Monasterio, LAN Airlines, Mountain Lodges of Peru, Orient Express Las Casitas del Colca, Aranwa Sacred Valley, Orient Express Colca Canyon Learn more about Las Casitas Del Colca. pg. 19 Rio Sagrado, Orient Express Miraflores Park Hotel, Lima Tours, Aqua Expeditions M/V Aria, Alamy Photography, Intersection Photos.

THE LUXURY MAGAZINE FOR WORLD TRAVELERS & BESPOKE SPRING 2011 KER & DOWNEY MAGAZINE THE PERU ISSUE THE VERY BEST OF PERU’S HOTELS, SPAS, AND EXPERIENCES

INSIDE: SACRED VALLEY On the Cover: When it comes to Peru (or any other Ker & Downey destination), our philosophy is simple: enjoy the world in privacy, the CUSCO MACHU PICCHU LIMA THE AMAZON SALAMANDORA way you’ve always dreamed it. Whether its a picnic atop Machu Picchu, a glass of champagne on the sun deck of an Amazon cruise, or culinary classes with an acclaimed Peruvian chef, we can arrange anything for your trip of a lifetime to Peru. One cruise ( not to miss ) SPECIAL REPORT Best Floating Hotel SEEING PERU BY PRIVATE On the Amazon PLANE

TOP SPAS AND EXPERIENCES 5 SACRED VALLEY, LIMA, AND MORE

Into the Andes Sacred Valley LUXURY ON THE TRAIL OFFERS CULUTRE TO MACHU PICCHU OF A LIFETIME For travel agents: Reservations or questions can be handled by calling us at 800.423.4236.

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FALL 2011 // NEWSWORTHY facebook.com/keranddowney Newsworthy

AWARDS The Other Awards Travel + leisure Ranked in the Top Ten by Travel + Leisure in the 2010 World’s World’s Best Awards for Luxury Tour Operator NANCY NOVOGROD Best EDITOR-IN-CHIEF National geographic + adventure The prestigious Travel JEAN-PAUL KYRILLOS National GeographicVP/PUBLISHER + Leisure Magazine has Adventure Magazine’s “Best AdventureINVITE Travel YOU Companies TO THE named Ker & Downey on Earth”TRAVEL - Luxury + LEISURECategory #2 in their search for the 2011 World’s Best Tour condé nWORLD’Sast Best Adventure TourBEST - “Best Operators and Safari of Peru”, by Concierge.com AWARDS Outfitters in 2011. With PARTY this third consecutive THURSDAY, JULY 14 World’s Best Award, Ker 6:00-8:30 PM EDITORIMR.AL C BEVERLY HILLS & Downey continues to 1224 BEVERWIL DRIVE LOS ANGELES prove its excellence in Turkish Delight providing truly custom- RSVP [email protected] Acclaimed travel writer ized, luxurious and expe- Margie Goldsmith shared riential travel to destina- Ker & Downey’s Tour of Turkey by Private Jet in Elite tions all over the world. Traveler Magazine’s May/ June 2011 issue. A 14-day journey escorted by private jet follows the footsteps of famous jet-setters Sarah egypt: Trip of a lifetime World-renowned National Geographic Traveler magazine has in- Tours cluded Ker & Downey in their 2011 list of 50 Tours of a Lifetime. of a Lifetime 2011 Tours of a Lifetime Added to the fray for the age of the pharaohs. 2011 2011 is Ker & Downey’s The journey is book- Uncovering Alexander’s ended by several days

S Egypt: A Desert and Div- in Cairo exploring the E C R U I S ing Expedition itinerary. Great Pyramids and other The 14-day adventure relics from Egypt’s past features surprising loca- and diving excursions in tions and experiences, Sharm El-Sheikh, another among them a sustain- of the world’s most cov- The ruins of Ephesus, one of the able and eco-conscious eted dive sites. many stops on Margie’s 14-day trip to Turkey. stay in the Western Desert and a chance to Tours dive back in time in the Ferguson, Sting, Tom Hanks of a Lifetime and Bill Gates through the harbor of modern Alex- Diving the Red Sea in Sharm-el-Sheikh sights of Istanbul, Cappado- andria, where ruins and 2011 cia, Ephesus, Bodrum and a shipwrecks date back to Toursprivate overnight cruise on of a Lifetimethe Aegean coast. Magazine Subscription 2011 To subscribe to Ker & Downey’s BESPOKE Magazine, click to: www.kerdowney.com/bespoke_subscription/

5 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey a ker & downey Journey: best of Peru a best adventure trip by concierge.com

Selected as one of the Best Adventure Trips by Condé Nast’s Concierge.com, this fascinating journey allows you to explore some of the most incredible sights on Earth, including all of the not-to-be-missed Peruvian highlights, topped off by a luxury cruise through Peru’s Northern Amazon region. www.kerdowney.com

FALL 2011 // LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT facebook.com/keranddowney Letter from the President

OUR PERU Cusco, one of Peru’s most treasured cities, is a must on any of Ker & Downey’s journeys to Peru for its fusion of colonial charm and natural beauty.

Peru is a destination that should be on every American’s travel list. Peru’s Sacred Valley of the Incas, Cusco, Ollantaytambo, the It’s only a 7-hour flight from most southern cities, which should Nasca Lines, and Machu Picchu. All done privately with the make it a playground for the states, yet Peru is still one country that legendary Ker & Downey style of service. remains relatively unexplored for most Americans. We would like to change that, by introducing you to the Peru of Ker & Downey. Peru is one of the oldest civilizations dating back almost 5,000 years. Take your camera and carry extra flash cards to When you consider travel to Peru, no doubt at the top of your record your memories because the snowy peaks, the shim- list is a visit to the mountain sanctuary of Machu Picchu. We do mering rivers, the sunrise over Machu Picchu, the audacity of this in Ker & Downey style via 5-star train; however, for the more the Nasca lines, and the sea lions on the coast are memories adventuresome, there is a five-day hike on a new trail through the to capture. Why wait? Call us and let us plan your Peru Andes, enjoying exclusive mountain trekking during the day with adventure of a lifetime. four-course dinners and warm beds in the evening. We’ll make it happen for you.

Our adventure, “Wings over Peru,” takes you to Machu Picchu and more. Since you will be traveling with Ker & Downey, you’ll be able to see sights that others traveling by road probably will not see. You’ll visit the northern coast and the Sacred City of Caral with its intricate network of temples, homes and 19 pyramids. You’ll also see Huascaran, Peru’s highest snow-capped mountain, the adobe city of Chan Chan, and you’ll be guided by D. Luis Jaime David Marek Castillo, Peru’s foremost scholar on the ancient culture. But that’s President not all! You’ll also visit the Royal Tombs of Sipan with Dr. Walter ker & downey Alva, lead archaeologist on the tomb’s digs and you’ll fly over the Valley of Volcanoes and Colca Canyon with additional visits to

Philanthropy: For ideas on how to get involved in doing good while traveling, visit us on the web at kerdowney.com/philanthropy.

For travel agents: Reservations or questions can be handled by calling us at 800.423.4236.

7 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey THE photo the HUNT Show us your images from Asia, Africa, South America, the South Pacific, or the Middle East along with a location and description, and you could be Photo Hunt published in the Spring 2012 issue of BESPOKE and win a $500 coupon off your next trip with us! is back. please submit all entries by email to: submit photos. Win adventure. [email protected] www.kerdowney.com

FALL 2011 // Our World facebook.com/keranddowney Our World

Bespoke Thinking The real heartbeat of Ker & Downey traveling lies in our dedication to creating hand-crafted journeys that will change your life. The experience you gain, the adventure you have, the people you meet - all of these are the benchmarks of a truly life-changing journey - so step into the world of Our Global Destinations Ker & Downey with boldness. With any of our excursions, mix and match a world of destinations East Africa Brazil southern africa and luxury properties for your very own, unique Chile trip of a lifetime. Kenya Botswana Ecuador & Rwanda Mauritius The Galapagos Seychelles Mozambique Peru Tanzania Namibia Uganda South Africa Asia featured in this issue Zambia Bhutan North Africa & Zimbabwe the Middle East India Nepal PERU Egypt Laos Arequipa PERUVIAN Amazon Israel Cambodia Colca CANYON Paracas Jordan Thailand Cusco Sacred Valley Oman Lima Vietnam Qatar Machu Picchu Turkey South Pacific Morocco United Arab Emirates Australia New Zealand

South America Argentina

9 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey

FALL 2011 // outlook

The Outlook tion a ound tours f tours

Willoq: The children in the small village of Willoq, one of

lied by: l im a by: pp lied su p hy p hotogra Lima Tours and Ker & Downey’s opportunities for social responsibility, receive books in their local dialect.

11 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey FALL 2011 // philanthropy

The Storybook Collection Love from Lima Another way that Ker & Downey guests can support the efforts of Any guest visiting Peru with Ker & Downey has the opportunity to give back Lima Tours Foundation is through its storybook collection. Thus far, Lima to the local communities through a partnership with Lima Tours Foundation. Tours Foundation has published two Convinced that tourism can and must be a road toward the development of wonderful children’s books: “Machu Peru, Ker & Downey and Lima Tours Foundation seek to improve the Picchu, of Gods and Men” and “Caral, Adventures in the Sacred City.” In a well-being of the country, especially for its neediest citizens, so that everyone fun and easy-to-comprehend man- has a chance for a positive and meaningful future. ner with beautiful illustrations that complement the text, each book relates to a history of a culture and of Ways to give Small gifts such program that helps For those with a the site. The books may be enjoyed On any journey to as pencils, pens, to create local more conserva- by both children and adults. Peru, guests of Ker notebooks, or buildings in the tional focus, Ker & & Downey have crayons are great community. There Downey travelers The goal is to publish eleven books, several ways to items that you can are also opportuni- can participate each one based on a different UNES- make an impact on pack with you. ties for taking part in river cleaning CO World Heritage Site from Peru. the Peruvian com- Guests also have in refurbishing activities, which munities we visit. the opportunity schools, painting help to keep the to participate in in the commu- water supply clean an “Adobe Bricks” nity, or teaching from pollution. children how to use a computer.

Caral books

for more information To learn more about Ker & Downey’s philanthropic opportunities in Peru with Lima Tours Foundation or to the action discover other ways to give back while traveling, please contact us: As a Ker & Downey the children, playing traveler, you games and learning Visiting Willoq email: [email protected] can choose to to understand this Willoq is a small community of approxi- spend time in the community in a new phone: 800.423.4236 mately 200 families and a total of 1,500 village of Willoq light. Any time spent people, located in the heart of the ancient by serving the in Willoq can be life- Inca civilization, not far from Ollantaytambo. community in changing, both for the some capacity or villagers and for you. spending time with the need very low and not enough This impoverished to cover their basic village relies heavily needs including food, on farming, and in education and health. the dry season, the villagers work as porters on the Inca Trail. The women help with daily activities and preserve their unique and ancient tradition of weaving fabric of the highest quality, which they sell to travelers visiting their community. Their daily income is Community of Willoq

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 12

FALL 2011 // inca explorer

Inca Explorer Images of Inca explorer Ker & Downey’s Inca Explorer melds the traces of ancient cultures with the 1. Machu Picchu, a rewarding site traditions still thriving in a modern Peru over twelve days in the eclectic region. after the journey on Inca Explorer. 2. The suites at Hotel Monasterio After spending your first night in Lima, your ing sun bathe the valley in light and melt away are all individually styled. This one adventure into the history of the country the secretive mist, opening the monument up has a gorgeous view of the rooftops begins in the Sacred Valley, aptly named for for your exploration once again. Both tours are in Cusco. its concentration of the country’s oldest and intimate and quiet, avoiding the peak times for most remarkable ruins. Rio Sagrado, next to larger groups and lessening the competition for the winding Urubamba River, is the gateway photo opportunities. Peruvian to these sites where you will capture a unique Property Spotlight snapshot of everyday life in the fertile region. Continue to Cusco, the seat of the ancient capi- Venture into the Incan village of Chinchero, the tal where Incan roots still weave between the “town of the rainbows,” where amidst the in- architectural influences of the colonial Spanish. credible views of the Andes, pre-Hispanic tra- From the resplendent Hotel Monasterio, a mon- dition still reigns. The bygone fingerprints are astery and seminary built in 1595, take a tour of evident on the main plaza’s ancient stone wall Cusco’s architectural mix of Inca and colonial and agricultural terraces, originally developed styles. Many of the buildings that now define by Incan ancestors, that are still planted and the historic sections of the city surrounding the tilled today. Interact with the colorful Andean bustling Plaza de Armas sprung up from the villagers and vendors at the Chinchero market foundations of Incan temples. Outside the city and at Wayra Ranch meet the Peruvian Paso other ancient sites are on the agenda: the Sac- horse, famous for the world’s smoothest gait. sayhuaman walled complex overlooking Cusco, A flurry of color, handkerchiefs and nimble Kenko’s temple and amphitheater, the royal hooves provide entertainment over a gourmet Inca baths of Tambomachay, and Puca Pucara’s lunch as human and horse alike perform to the red fortress. rhythm of the traditional marinera courtship hotel monasterio dance. Next, discover the “white city” of Arequipa, Hotel Monasterio derives its name tucked between three impressive Andean vol- from its original purpose as a six- Peru’s most famous landmark is your next des- canoes and distinguished by the milky volcanic teenth-century monastery. Though tination. Arrive by way of the luxurious Hiram rock used in its architectural achievements. the architecture of the hotel, indica- Bingham Train to Machu Picchu’s hidden valley Note the distinct Santa Catalina Convent and tive of the colonial period, has not and rest for the evening at Machu Picchu Sanc- the mestizo Baroque style of the Jesuit Church been significantly altered, the hotel tuary Lodge on the actual site of the citadel. on a tour of the city, ending with a view of the features entirely modern facilities, Explore the city upon arrival with a guide, and countryside from the elevated Yanahuara and helping to make Hotel Monasterio one of the finest hotels in the world. on your fifth day, rise early to watch the morn- Chilina residential districts. You will also look The artwork found along the walls of into a face of the past at the Catholic Univer- the living areas and many bedrooms sity’s Museum of Andean Sanctuaries, where is part of the monastery’s original Mummy Juanita waits. Discovered frozen and collection, and the combination of almost perfectly preserved on nearby Mount Inca foundations, colonial Spanish Ampato in 1995, this young girl is thought to architecture, and modern amenities will exceed all expectations of what have lived during the Incan Empire and was luxury should be. likely killed as an offering to Incan gods. The journey through Peru’s Inca heritage ends in the Colca Valley where you will spend two full days in a private luxury casita at Las Local Experiences at Hotel Monasterio Casitas del Colca. Take in as many activities in the valley as you can: spot condors in Colca A. Horseback riding Canyon at Cruz del Condor, go fly fishing on B. Birdwatching the Colca River and tour by bike or on the back of a Peruvian Paso horse. At the lodge, experi- C. Cultural tours ment in a Peruvian cooking class, bottle-feed D. City tour baby alpacas on the farm, pursue luxurious E. White water rafting moments in the Spa Samay, or stargaze through the glass ceiling above the fabulous sunken F. Mountain biking tub in your casita, reflecting on your journey G. Paragliding and hang gliding through Peru’s Incan past.

Pricing for Inca Explorer is from $6,535 per person, based on double occupancy. Prices may vary depending on travel date. For more information, contact us at info@kerdowney or by phone, at 800.423.4236.

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 14 ENY-15004-1 4C FP A380 Shower Bespoke Magazine by Ker&Downey Trim: 8.5 x 11, B:8.75 x 11.125

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airfare Traveling with LAN South America is a rich destination full of mysterious history, cosmopolitan culture and natural wonder, presented on Ker & Downey’s hand-crafted journeys.

Our partnership Thanks to our relationship with journeys to South America. If LAN Airlines, we are able to couple South America is your goal, LAN a great value with LAN’s variety of Airlines is the premiere choice in destinations to help simplify your carriers, bringing over 80 years of airline choice. LAN carries Ker & experience and fantastic amenities Downey guests directly to Easter to its privileged passengers. Island, the Galapagos Islands and Iguazu Falls, some of the most desired remote destinations found on many intrepid Ker & Downey

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More information is available at kerdowney.com/book-airfare

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Sara Marek Pictures from my recent trip to Kenya with Ker & Downey! Share your photos from your Ker & Downey trip with us Ker & Downey’s Andrew Littmann and his wife Haley are spending time this holiday season with the Save Street Children Uganda organization. Stories from their time with these amazing children to come!

Save Street Children Uganda Keep up to 6 new photos date with what Share Your Stories we are doing VISIT OUR FACEBOOK PAGE TO GET CONNECTED WITH THE LATEST NEWS facebook.com/keranddowney If you haven’t signed on Facebook just yet, now is the perfect time to join and connect with Ker & Downey. With our powerful online tools, you can stay connected with our weekly newsletter, product updates, signature journeys, special offers, BESPOKE Magazine and hot properties available to you as you customize a luxury journey with us. After your travels, share highlights from your trip with us and other travelers from all over the world. Shared experiences will open minds to unfamiliar destinations and amazing adventures with Ker & Downey. Tell us about the mahout you met on your elephant ride in India. Show us your amazing safari footage from Botswana. Share with us the view from your hotel room in Dubai. We happily encourage you to play show and tell on our page. FALL 2011 // las casitas del colca

Down in the Colca Canyon The exclusive Orient-Express collection opened Las Casitas del Colca in 2008 in one of the most dramatic landscapes of Peru.

Coming to Las Casitas del Colca allows you to will always be entertained with cooking and cocktail disconnect from the world to relax and enjoy the lessons, painting lessons, visiting the farm and stable serenity of southern Peru’s Colca Canyon, the second or sunbathing by the pool. Guests who would like deepest canyon in the world. The beautiful valley is to explore the area can ride Peruvian Paso horses a fertile region of pre-Inca terraces used to this day or take a walking or bicycle tour to nearby towns. for farming, and dotted with villages where residents A highly recommended excursion is to Cruz del follow ancient traditions. Cóndor, a dramatic viewpoint above the deep canyon where tourists gather to see up close the incredible This luxury lodge has nineteen individual casitas flight of the Andean condor, the world’s largest flying and an extra spacious presidential casita granting the bird with a wingspan of up to 3.2 m. best view of the valley and Colca River. Guests can arrive at Las Casitas del Colca via car in 3 hours from Peruvian cuisine is recently gaining fame around Arequipa, Peru’s second largest city. The journey the world for its delicious flavors, great quality and will take you through a rugged landscape reigned by variety of regional recipes. The Arequipa region is volcanoes and herds of wild vicuñas from the Salinas particularly well-known for dishes such as stuffed and Aguada Blanca National Reserve. pepper, shrimp stew, fava bean and Andean cheese salad, and many more. At Las Casitas del Colca, the Las Casitas del Colca preserves the local charm menu changes daily and features traditional Peruvian with vast gardens, construction and decoration dishes and typical recipes from Arequipa mixed with with natural materials and an experience focused some international touches. The property’s Curiña on nature and well-being. A range of activities are Restaurant serves buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner offered to allow guests to do as much or as little as a la carte using organic fruits, vegetables and herbs 1. The spacious in- they wish. Those who prefer to stay on the property from the large garden of greenhouses, fruit trees and terior of the suites vegetable terraces. There is also a barbecue lunch at Las Casitas del option to enjoy the outdoors while having grilled Colca. 2. The early afternoon sun chicken, beef, alpaca or vegetables. warms the Canyon, PERSONAL PERU Relaxing in the comfort of the making it the per- property’s spa tubs is an absolute delight. One of the most enjoyable experiences is spending fect time to go for time at Spa Samay complete with an outdoor heated a swim in between pool, sauna, two single treatment rooms, one double local activities. 3. The lush green of treatment room and a suite with a bath. All treat- the Canyon is best ments and massages are inspired by the Colca Valley seen atop some using healing elements from the Andes and herbs of the horseback from the garden. One of the new treatments is a riding trails around moisturizing body wrap called Sara Qata made from the property. 4. Indulge in the Spa purple corn and honey. Samay, one of Ker & Downey’s Top 5 Families are also welcome as children can learn Spas in Peru. about the destination and Peruvian culture through outdoor exploration and fun activities. They can help hotel staff feed the cute baby alpacas every day and get up close to farm animals like rabbits and guinea pigs. Perhaps they will pick up a new

“Coming to Las Casitas del Colca allows you to disconnect from the world, to relax and enjoy the serenity of southern Peru’s Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world.”

19 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey 1. 2.

3. 4.

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 20 1.

3. 4.

1. One of the Casitas’ living areas 2. Afternoon lunches on the patio. 3. Learn the art of Peruvian cooking techniques with private lessons 4. Entrance to the Spa Samay. hobby by fishing in the property’s heated plunge pool or cozy up in trout pond or signing up for cook- front of the fireplace before going to ing classes to make easy and tasty bed to have energy for the following recipes with the family. After all that day’s activities. About in Peru activity, at night they will curl up in Other Peruvian Hotels bed with a sweet toy baby alpaca, Worth Noting which is actually a bed warmer! Aside from the Las Casitas del Colca, there are a few other exclusive Peru When nighttime comes around and lodges that Ker & Downey recommends: the peace and quiet of the Colca Las Casitas del Colca is available on Ker & Canyon settles around you, adults Downey’s Inca Explorer and is also easy to can relive the day’s events while combine on your own customized journey Rio Sagrado Miraflores Park to Peru. For more information on Las sacred valley Hotel sipping a cocktail at the bar among Casitas del Colca or any other Lima fellow guests. A visit to Peru would Orient-Express Hotels in Peru, please what not be complete without trying pisco, contact us at info@kerdowney or by A ‘villas & spa’ retreat what a grape brandy and the signature phone, at 800.423.4236. standing on the privileged An unparalleled luxury hotel riverfront to the timeless drink of Peru. It is served in many in the exclusive Miraflores Urubamba River. district, with access to the ways: pisco sour, chilcano de pisco, best of Lima. capitán, and pairs well with fruit highlights juices. After dinner, return to your A Peruvian spa treatment highlights with views into the Sacred A sunset dinner and drinks in Casita and take a dip in the private Valley. the Observatory Restaurant.

21 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey the Peru Issue the very best of Peru’s hotels, spas, and experiences

“For those who want to capture just a tinge of that same rush of excitement felt by the explorers a century ago, the Salkantay Route to Machu Picchu is the way to go.”

Trek to machu picchu / Page 23

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 22 TREK TO MACHU PICCHU It’s easily South America’s most popular destination: Machu Picchu, the sprawling complex tucked away in the Cordillera Vilcabamba range of the Andes. Historians offer theories on Machu Picchu’s original purpose - from a convent of sorts to a retreat for royalty - but its true purpose remains shrouded in mystery, much like the entire complex is hidden from below by overgrowth and incredible misty clouds. This July marked the centenary of historian and adventurer Hiram Bingham’s famed discovery of Machu Picchu. A Quecha-speaking guide led Bingham to the ruins

A view of the Machu Picchu ruins overlooking the valley

23 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey that had long been locally-known, but was left inexplicably undiscovered by the colonial Spanish. The Lodges For those who possess a sense of adventure The four lodges along the newest trail to Machu Picchu and want to capture just a tinge of that same with Ker & Downey lack no luxury. rush of excitement felt by the explorers a century ago, the Salkantay Route is the way to go. Though this route is certainly SALKANTAY LODGE well-traveled, it’s not as popular since most visitors opt for a bus or train to ferry them to the impressive ancient citadel. Some even hike along the more crowded and grueling Inca Trail from Cusco. But without a doubt, trekking on the undulating slopes along the Salkantay and retiring each evening to the Mountain Lodges of Peru is hands-down the most comfortable way to reach the ancient ruins.

MLP was born out of a genuine desire for an alternative to more primitive trekking opportunities with Machu Picchu as the goal – “true comfort and true service, amidst true adventure.” The family of four lodges is spread along the Salkantay Route, acting as cozy stepping stones on your path. Why LUCMA LODGE pitch your own tent when you can instead enjoy the rugged scenery with a roof over your head and a masseuse at your disposal? Why stuff all you could possibly need for a five-day trek into a bulky, heavy backpack when you can entrust a team of porters to guide your belongings safely to the next destination? Why take in the placid Vil- cambamba scenery anywhere that doesn’t involve curling up in a fireside chair, soaking in a bubbling outdoor hot tub or drifting off under a down comforter each night? Why, indeed?

Although being physically fit helps, you don’t need to be an Olympian to accomplish this trek. Time spent hiking between lodges COLPA LODGE WAYRA LODGE varies from 3-6 hours each day, with the dis- tance traveled proving more demanding than the terrain encountered. Lodge fare, dubbed “Andean Energetic Cuisine” by the food and beverage director, is made with high-quality local ingredients and optimized to replenish one’s strength and lessen the physical effects of the trek on one’s moving parts. And so it is on the trail, too, with hot lunches that are always high-energy while granola snack mixes are constantly on offer to keep stamina high. There is no shortage of visual stimuli comfort. This genius use of traditional techniques has resulted in miniscule to keep you pressing onward - the spec- energy consumption and a small footprint left on the fragile hills. tacular scenery around you will surely get your pulse racing, your eyes eager for more Despite its energy efficiency and remote location, all of the amenities at a snow-capped vistas and your lungs craving modern hotel are afforded visitors: wireless Internet, luxury bedding, climate- more cool mountain air. Your physical efforts controlled rooms and en suite baths with a constant supply of hot water, en- each day are rewarded tenfold by the splen- hanced by the soothing lather of organic shampoos and soaps. Each commu- dor of your lodge amenities. Bio-climactic nal living and dining area is a welcome retreat after a day of trekking, as the architectural standards employed during the wood-burning stove centerpiece casts a warm glow over the plush furnishings construction of the lodges make the most of and stone finishes while you get to know your guides and fellow trekkers. the sun and wind exposure while keeping guests sheltered from the elements in utter

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 24 Hikers along the trail often enjoy stunning scenery like this - private and breathtaking.

25 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 26 Rayanpata, the point of transition between the rocky slopes of {THE TREK} the high Andes and the lush jungles leading to Machu Picchu. Shed your jacket as you feel the climate shift and trek to Colpa Trekkers begin at Salkantay Lodge and Adventure Resort in the Lodge at 9,180 feet where the Salkantay, Chalan and Totora Riv- shadow of Salkantay Peak, the highest in the region at 20,600 feet. ers meet to form Rio Santa Teresa. Jungle wildlife abounds and Acclimating to the altitude is the goal here, aided by an introduc- is often spotted through the trees, while colorful butterflies are tion to high-mountain trekking and an unforgettable swim in the more forward, flirting with you as you enjoy the outdoors. Af- Humantay Glacial Lake. ter your downward trek, it will be hard to resist the natural hot

springs located on lodge site. Before you depart, celebrate your Reach the highest point on the trek between Salkantay and your trek with a traditional Pachamanca meal prepared in Colpa’s next stop, Wayra Lodge. Begin traveling through Rio Blanco Val- garden. This treat of roasted vegetables and meats is as much ley, circling Humantay Peak with Salkantay Peak’s south face ever a hearty meal as it is a spiritual offering, prepared in reverence in view until you reach 15,906 feet and the thousands of stone to Mother Earth and roasted in the ground, buried and sealed markers at Apacheta Pass. For centuries these Apacheta rock piles have been left on high mountain passes to pay tribute to Pacham- ama, Mother Earth, a tangible prayer for good health and a safe COLPA LODGE trek. Continue down to 12,630 feet and Wayra Lodge, a name that Elevation: 9,180 feet means “the place where the wind lives” and aptly named since the Dine on a traditional roasted lodge perches cliff side overlooking the Rio Salkantay snaking into pachamanca meal the distant jungle far below. This meaning is also reflected in the lodge décor which pays tribute to the mountain spirits and deities from local legends. Next, reach “the eyebrow of the jungle” at

Rayanpata Elevation: 11,138 feet Transition into warmer climates at “the eyebrow of the jungle”

WAYRA LODGE Elevation: 12,630 feet Recharge and soak in the cliff side hot tub

StarTING POINT Begin your trek from Soraypampa to Salkantay Resort

SALKANTAY LODGE Elevation: 12,467 feet Swim in the Humantay Glacial Lake

SALKANTAY PEAK Elevation: 20,600 feet The highest peak in the Vilcambamba region by hot stones. La Playa’s riverside town usually marks the The final pass on the trek at 9,843 feet is Llactapata, where you end of the trekking for Machu Picchu’s pilgrims, but on your will see your goal in a stunning panorama. From this vantage the journey you will continue on to the tropical Lucma Lodge at whole of Machu Picchu is visible as you gaze out towards the Sun 6,890 feet. Stands of coffee, banana, avocado and eucalyptus Gate of the Lost City. Your journey by foot ends not far from here welcome you to this verdant lodge site, encouraging you as private vehicles take you onward to Aguas Calientes, where to explore outdoors and watch for parrots and parakeets you will await your chance to enter the citadel to explore and darting between the trees. Adjacent to the accommoda- celebrate the completion of your trek. tions, uncover an ancient Inca trail that has been painstak- ingly restored, offering a glimpse into the path traversed by countless mountain residents of the past.

The trail Rocky Terrain Follow the trail to Hiking level: moderate Machu Picchu. to challenging.

Jungle GOURMET PICNIC Lush jungles full of Enjoy hot meals along wildlife, hot springs the trail as you take in and vegetation. impeccable views of the Sacred Valley.

LOOKOUT POINT View a rare panorama of the entire Machu Picchu city.

Enter the city LUCMA LODGE The rock formations indicate you have Elevation: 6,890 feet arrived in the city of Explore portions of a restored Machu Picchu. Inca trail on the grounds

Machu picchu Elevation: 7,710 feet Your ultimate goal, the sprawling ancient Inca city

apacheta PASS Elevation: 15,906 feet Look out for condors on the pass! the top Spas in 5 Peru

Aranwa Resort & Spa Sacred Valley

About the Spa: Aranwa’s spacious Unno Spa is a journey into the tranquil and ultra-luxurious. Thai and Swedish techniques are enhanced by the use of Andean herbs and salts from the ancient Maras mines, creating an experience that is simultaneously unique and authentic. Entire rooms are dedi- cated to meditation, electrotherapy, Vichy shower and oxygen therapy, a spacious retreat overlooking the forest and river. The crown jewel of the Unno Spa is the opulent hydrotherapy area, featuring whirlpools, foot and body showers, a dry sauna and steam room.

SIGNATURE EXPERIENCE Experience the Secret of the Andes, a meditative massage and wrap treatment administered atop a natural stone bed that has been soaked in aromatic oils and heated by open flame.

No. Treatment Rooms Gym available SPA staff 11 Yes 10, including a doctor, nutritionist and stylist

29 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Indulge in a unique journey with pure relaxation, spectacular views and blends from authentic Andean remedies at some of Peru’s most popular spa destinations.

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 30 Las Casitas Del Colca Colca Canyon

About the Spa: Spa Samay takes its name from the Quecha word for “rest” – and rest is just what guests experience here. Complete with a sauna and spacious treatment rooms, a philosophy of natural healing and nurturing permeates the spa. Herbs used in the various treatments are grown in the adjacent garden and greenhouse, and the free form swimming pool provides additional moments of respite before or after a spa treatment.

SIGNATURE EXPERIENCE Indigenous cultures have long used ground corn to purify the skin, a technique sampled in the Sara Qata corn blanket treatment. Purple corn, fresh honey and salvia oils cleanse the skin, sealed together snugly by an Alpaca blanket.

No. Treatment Rooms Gym available SPA staff 3 private treatment rooms No 10

31 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 32 33 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Rio Sagrado Sacred Valley

About the Spa: Flanked by indigenous trees, medicinal wildflowers and artful stone structures, entering the Spa Maya Wilka is like stepping into a shaman’s upscale flat. Time-tested local remedies of eucalyptus, kiwicha and maracuya enhance each of the various massages and beauty treatments on offer. Overlooking the Urubamba River, the native gardens are a tranquil setting for outdoor massages and yoga practice while inside, guests may luxuriate in the sauna and spacious indoor/outdoor Jacuzzi.

SIGNATURE EXPERIENCE Try an hour-long body wrap of essential oils, local herbs and coca leaves - an ingredient used for centuries in traditional medicine. The experience includes head and foot massages and is finished off by a refreshing Inca shower.

No. Treatment Rooms Gym available SPA staff 1 private treatment room (many treatments are outdoors) No 10

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 34 35 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Miraflores Park Hotel Lima

About the Spa: A lofty haven of restoration and relaxation, the Zest Spa at Miraflores Park Hotel en- joys prime views of the Pacific from the eleventh floor. Facials by Lancôme leave guests aglow, massages and reflexology soothe, and an array of “Wraptures” offer a unique pampering on the thermal dry-float bed. For those with more active interests, a completely custom workout involving the pool and gym can be tailored by the staff.

SIGNATURE EXPERIENCE Skin receives a healthy polish with a Peruvian olive oil and brown sugar scrub. This indulgent mixture is native to Lima but has been per- fected by the innovative Zest Spa, adding soothing eucalyptus to the blend.

No. Treatment Rooms Gym available SPA staff 3 private treatment rooms No 10

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 36 Tambo Del Inka, A Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Sacred Valley

About the Spa: The bygone days of the Inca receive a modern reboot at Tambo del Inka’s Spa at Valle Sagrado. Favorite Andean ingredients of cocoa, quinoa and mud from Mount Misti combine with traditional massage and relaxation techniques in the well-appointed space. Water is also a major component in the treatments offered, with a heated indoor/outdoor pool, whirlpools, Vichy showers and sub-aquatic beds all available in the myriad of healing and relaxing experiences.

SIGNATURE EXPERIENCE Be treated like an Incan princess with the 24K Gold from the Gods facial. Rosehip, green tea and a variety of Peruvian nutrients and oils combine with actual gold for this anti-aging treatment.

No. Treatment Rooms Gym available SPA staff 12 treatment rooms Yes 11

37 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 38 THE PISCO SOUR Perhaps Peru’s most notablePERU culinary delight. CUISINE

Something’s Sizzling in Peru

sun and the moon in a romantic display

39 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey something’s Sizzling in Peru

In every corner of Peru, you can see it, smell it, taste it - over 500 years of culture, simmering in a true melting pot of flavor, where plates of the traditional and the nouveau all take their culinary cues from around the world and their own backyard.

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 40 Paracas Scallops being grilled over the open flame

41 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Perhaps the easiest way CEVICHE Recipe Fish Market ous cocktails are a constant at to immerse yourself in any Spend a morning in the Villa the exclusive tapas restau- given culture is by putting Maria del Triunfo Market, rants, a dining experience that your mouth to work: not by South America’s largest and is decidedly Spanish with no attempting the local dialect, most diverse outdoor market. shortage of Peruvian flavors but by sampling as many of The scene is one of pure commingled. the most popular foods as culinary chaos: unending you can. Fresh meats and ramshackle stalls teeming The culinary evolution of other ingredients give you a with whole fish, having ar- Peru has come full circle and crash course in local industry rived fresh from the Peruvian returned to its Andean roots and agriculture. Types and coast and all across South in many ways. Thought to be amounts of spices often cor- America, mingling with a “peasant food” for centu- relate with area climates. And rainbow of fruits from the ries by the colonial-minded signature cocktails? They highlands and jungles of European Peruvians, Andean describe the local sense of Peru. You will rub elbows with ingredients of quinoa, maize fun and relaxation with just some of Lima’s most talented and potato once shunned one sip. are now featured regularly The Ingredients chefs from high-end bistros and family-owned huariques in haute cuisine. The potato, There’s no better place in in particular, holds a special 1 pound white saltwater fish as you search for your own Peru to dive head first into place in Peruvian history 1 cup lime juice ceviche ingredients, moving the epicurean culture than on to a local restaurant to as the starchy staple was Lima, the gastronomical 1/2 cup lemon juice first cultivated some 7,000 1/2 cup orange juice assemble and taste your capital of South America. Peruvian creation. Though years ago in the south of the A city with more Chinese 1 tablespoon salt country, paving the way for 1 chopped habanero pepper the original ceviche recipe restaurants than traditional used by pre-Hispanic coastal thousands of different native (or aji limon if you can find one) Peruvian eateries, its bustling residents remains a mystery, varieties. Indigenous cuy, also 1 medium onion markets overflow with Peruvians have invented known as guinea pigs, yield a Pculinary treasures from every 4 tablespoons chopped cilantro meat high in protein and low dozens of variations on the corner of the country and dish, both modernized and in cholesterol that has long street vendors and high-end Cut the fish into small pieces: You been a source of sustenance can dice it or leave it in pieces up traditional. chefs alike covet the same in the Andes. In larger mu- quality ingredients and to 1 inch square, but remember that nicipalities, cuy is a common the larger the pieces the longer it will Back on the bustling streets, demand perfection from take to marinate. Lima’s food stands rival those ingredient in street fare and every dish. Lima is a foodie’s in Hanoi and Seoul, serving fine dining alike. unending smorgasbord, Salt the fish, then cover with the citrus juice in a non-reactive (glass or incredible tamales, Peruvian stocked with local cuisine sandwiches, shish kebab A treat that is best enjoyed inspired from all corners of plastic) container with a lid. Add the in the remote Andes is a sliced onions and the chiles. anticuchos of skewered the earth. Here, a melting pot meat and syrup-covered pachamanca meal, a hearty was forged from centuries Chill this in the fridge for at least 2 fried doughnuts called mixture of meats, vegetables, of traders, travelers and im- hours, possibly as much as 3 hours potatoes and spices that is -- very large pieces can take longer. picarones. Try the “five migrants coming and going flavors,” a snapshot of Peru’s baked in the ground by hot from the Orient, Europe and If your fish is truly raw-eating quality, stones. This ancient cooking it is OK if the centers of the pieces culture on a plate, combining Africa and the diversity of are still raw-looking. spaghetti pasta, ceviche, rice method is designed as an Lima’s past is evident in the and Andean ingredients to offering to Mother Earth, To serve, lay down some of the foods of today. A favorite create an eclectic dish. At the returning the food to the earth destination among locals, onions and chiles and top with the from which it sprung in an act fish. Garnish with the cilantro. other end of the spectrum of “chifas” serve typical Chinese palatable offerings, bite-sized of reverence and appreciation. food adapted and enhanced In Peru, you will most often find dishes paired with sumptu- Pachamancas are usually re- with Peruvian ingredients. this served with potatoes, either Italian favorites also get the sweet or white. local treatment, with chefs often substituting the aji chili pepper in place of traditional Italian herbs and spices that are scarce in Peru.

Ceviche – or “cebiche” as it is known locally – combines the best fresh fish with lime juice and onion. The acidity of the lime cooks the fish and the flavors combine to create a delicious dish usually served garnished with peppers and sweet potato. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a shot of “leche de tigre” or tiger’s milk, the spicy leftover juices from ceviche that is said to be an aphrodisiac. Stateside eateries may try to duplicate this Peruvian original, but PRESENTATION no artful interpretation can It’s not all about compare to the creations you taste when it will find here, especially one comes to Peru- that you craft with your own vian cooking. hands under the guidance of Chefs take great a native culinary artist. pride in amazing presentation of their artistic creations.

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 42 served for special occasions, create a crisp, tangy cocktail taking several hours to roast that is a standard in eateries and often prepared in mass throughout Peru. quantities and enjoyed in a festive banquet setting. Wherever you are or what- ever you’ve eaten, taking a The Paracas Peninsula post-dinner walk is a must. on the northern coast of El Paseo - the stroll - is a Peru is renowned for its tradition with Spanish roots spectacular seafood. Peru’s in which families and dinner ancient settlers thrived guests take a long walk in this area in spite of the together, allowing time for desert climate, with the cold swimming heads to slow, waters of the Humboldt full stomachs to settle and Current creating the perfect spirited conversation to con- conditions for an unending tinue. Leisurely walks wind Pacific bounty of fish and you through the cosmo- shellfish. Paracas is famous politan blend of the old world for its scallops, baked on and the worldly in Lima, next the half shell with Parmesan to the lapping waves of the cheese and butter, tossed Pacific in Paracas and along in a ceviche, or enjoyed raw the undulating hills of the with a simple sprinkling of Sacred Valley with mind and lime juice and salt. Not far belly brimming with Peruvian from the peninsula, Pisco in hospitality, history and an the Ica Valley is where you eclectic mix of flavors. P will find the birthplace of the grape liquor used in the famous pisco sour, Peru’s TRADITIONAL DELIGHTS From left to right: Traditional ceviche dish; local national drink. Lime juice, chef preparing pachamanca. egg white, sugar water and pisco are blended with ice and garnished with bitters to

The Inside Scoop By: Marni Granston EXPERIENTIAL TRAVEL SPECIALIST / KER & DOWNEY

Seeing the wonders of the ancient Inca civilization of Machu Picchu, like many travelers, was my initial draw to Peru. But Peru is a destination full of rich culture, offering up an incredibly unique culinary experience as well. One of my personal favorites was the Alpaca. Prepared in a variety of ways from an alpaca burger, carpaccio or tenderloin, it’s an absolute must when sampling the local cuisine.

For those looking to sample more of the indigenous meats of the Andes and want to embrace the “bizarre foods” sort of experience, try a local favorite, guinea pig... Can’t say I tried this one personally. Your Ker & Downey guide can recom- mend some wonderfully quaint restaurants to indulge in these local favorites throughout your journey. Want to learn how to make some of the traditional dishes? Ker & Downey will arrange for your own private cooking lessons where you can master the recipes of your favorite Peruvian dishes to share with your friends at home.

43 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey To Market, To Market Markets in Lima are a delicious assault on the senses, and the Villa Maria del Tri- unfo is the king of them all. Uncover the most famous feature - the aisles upon aisles of fresh fish from the Pacific.

A Staunch Starch The potato was cultivated in the Peruvian Andes as many as 7,000 years ago and since spreading to Europe and the rest of the world via the conquistadores, potatoes have grown to be the fourth-largest crop in the world. Give a nod to the Peruvian farmers of old the next time you sample spuds au gratin, mashed, baked or French fried.

PISCO A GO-GO Chile and Peru both claim to have invented this tangy drink, and untold variations adding tropical fruits can be found throughout South America. Peru, however, is the undisputed origin of the grape-based pisco liquor and also has Anthony Bourdain’s vote for the more perfect pisco sour.

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 44 Floating boutique hotel The newest addition to the Aqua Expeditions fleet takes luxury one step further with its enormous suites that make this more of a boutique hotel experience than a cruise

Amazon sailing

Down the Amazon you’ll find an array of boats carrying discerning choose Ker & Downey and a privileged spot aboard the brand the pristine Pacaya Samiria reserve where the wildlife

45 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey amazon sailing

all kinds of passengers, but the most new M/V Aria. This ‘floating boutique hotel’ traverses puts on a display you won’t want to miss.

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 46 47 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey As the popularity of the Peruvian Amazon grows, so does the luxury cruise ship fleet of Aqua Expeditions. In April of 2011, the M/V Aria was introduced as a second option to float the tranquil Amazon. The plush modern aesthetics of this updated vessel come courtesy of renowned Peruvian

architect Jordi Puig, the same artist who designed the Aria’s sister ship, the M/V Aqua. There is space aboard for 32 Amazonian adventurers – eight more than the Aqua – as well as a generous observation deck with ample room for sun loungers and a luxurious outdoor Jacuzzi. A From the decks of the Aria, Peru’s Amazon comes to life in a vivid spectacle of color and natural beauty. Guests are guided aboard a fleet of skiffs to see the treasured forests and jungle denizens up close. In the low water season, typically June through November, more of the land trails are navigable by foot, while in the high water season, the skiff does all the moving for you as much of the lush jungle is flooded with some 23 extra feet of water.

The sunrise over the Amazon you will see on your first morning aboard is merely an appe- tizer, and the excursions along the mighty river’s tributaries are each a satisfying side dish composing the main course of your journey. Spend time in the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, see the black waters of the Nauta Caño and experience the meeting of the rivers Ucayali and Marañon to form the mighty Amazon. Wildlife is in abundance from every angle, above and below, and naturalist guides are keen to point out the sights and sounds of

The Aquatic life Opposite: Each of the design suites aboard the M/V Aria have spectacular picture windows that allow the room to be a part of the natural surroundings; Clockwise from top left: Fine dining aboard the Aria; Luxuri- ous common areas are comfortable for after- excursion conversations with other guests.

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 48 The M/V Aria Space is the new luxury, and the M/V Aria has plenty of it. The newest vessel from

outdoor lounge You will find that you spend a lot of time on the generous top-level sunbathing, reading a good book, or simply watching the river go by.

the indoor lounge Relax between Amazon adventures or enjoy a pre- or post- second deck dinner cocktail in the air-conditioned indoor bar, a soothing The second deck: includes oasis in an exotic location. The atmosphere is casual, the dining area, design suites music is soft, and the conversation is good. The M/V Aria lounge access is fully air conditioned.

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the dining room 208 Gaze out at the great wilderness from the elegant comfort of the ship’s dining room. Fine china and crystal and superb service 201 are part of the experience, matching what you would expect from a fine dining restaurant in Lima. Choose to dine à deux or at a table accommodating your whole family or 203 your new friends.

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Ship Stats: the design suites 207 . Capacity: 32 passengers All of the M/V Aria’s oversized suites come with a comfortable en suite seating area and extra-large . 4 interconnecting family suites windows that enable you to get the “big picture” . Length: 147 feet / 45 meters of the rivers and their banks from the comfort of your air-conditioned room. . Beam: 29.5 feet / 9 meters . Draft: 5 feet / 1.5 meters . Life jackets: In all cabins . Crew: 24 . Guides: 4 . Launch boats: 4, each with a capacity of 8-10 . Passengers, guide and launch pilot . Cruising Speed: 10 knots

About the aria The M/V Aria is a luxury vessel featuring 16 suites, all with beds that are convertible to California king-size beds. All suites face outside, have large panoramic windows, and are air-conditioned with en suite sitting areas.

49 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Aqua Expeditions is redefining luxury cruising on the Peruvian Amazon.

The Aria Bar At the end of the Aria’s gorgeous indoor lounge is a full-service bar. Premium liquors, fine wines, and a selection of beers make enjoying the view from the deck that much easier. The bar provides a excursion skiffs perfect social setting at the end of great excursion to reminisce with other guests aboard. Embark on ‘Amazonian safaris’ with an Aqua guide aboard expedition skiffs. These experiences aren’t to be missed as you get up close and personal to the native wildlife like pink dolphins.

observation deck The top deck: includes outdoor lounge, indoor lounge, jacuzzi, sun loungers, top-deck bar

third deck The third deck: includes family interconnecting suites, design suites

The interconnecting suites Aria Suites 104-106 and 103-105 are perfectly suited for families, as these two suites can be interconnected to allow maximum space for larger 102 groups traveling together.

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Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 50 Relax in the spacious lounge area with a cocktail and hors d’oeuvres, located on the observation deck.

51 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 52 7 DAYS 4 DAYS 3 DAYS The Aria’s Route

AMAZON RIVER AMAZON RIVER AMAZON RIVER Itinerary IQUITOS IQUITOS IQUITOS

DAY 1 DAY 5 Depart from Iquitos Marañon River CHARO LAKE Amazon River Choroyacu River YARAPA Yarapa River DAY 2 DAY 6 CHOROYACU Amazon River Tacsha River Yarapa River Yarapa RiverNAUTA Pacaya Samiria Reserve NAUTA Yarapa River DAY 3 San Martin De Tipishca Yarapa River SAN MARTIN PUERTO MIGUEL Yarapa River Yarapa River Yanallpa River DAY 7 DE TIPISHCA Ucayali River Tahuayo NAUTA CAÑO DAY 4 Charo Lake TACSHA Yarapa River Yarapa River Amazon River DAY 8 Puerto Miguel Manatee Rescue Center YANALLPA Nauta Caño

the waterlogged jungle. Giant Victoria Regias water lilies, Iguana,” where untold numbers of these lizards make the the world’s largest aquatic plant, emerge in a burst of color most of sunny days on the shores. Exit the skiff to meet the from the waters. Monkeys hoot at you from the nearby villagers of the region and share in their stories of life next trees, and birds are constantly heard chirping happily in to the powerful river. After watching the colorful macaws the thick forest. Flashes of grey and pink – yes, pink! – pass take flight at sunset, the skiff will meander back to the ship, inches from you as the unique freshwater dolphins escort and your guide will be on the lookout for caiman and other the skiffs through the waters. Not nearly as friendly as the nighttime river dwellers. dolphins, but still fascinating, carnivorous piranhas can be seen in certain sections of the river. If you’re lucky, you may Off-boat tours are offered typically twice daily with time find one staring back at you from the end of your fishing midday for lunch and even a relaxing siesta in your suite or line. You will visit the Yacapana Isles, known as “Isle of the on the sun deck. Executive Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino has offered his talents to the Aria’s sumptuous menu, utiliz- ing native fish and produce to craft meals that showcase the region’s cuisine and pair perfectly with the extensive selection of wines on offer. Rise each morning to enjoy the breakfast buffet, given an exotic treatment with the array of tropical juices made from fresh-squeezed fruits. From start to finish, whether on three-, four- or seven-night cruises, the M/V Aria chauffeurs you in splendor through the unex- pected wonders of the Peruvian Amazon.

Excursions DAY 1 DAY 6 Arrival in Iquitos, transfer to Dock All-day Primary Forest Excursion and Check-in or DAY 2 Morning Rainforest Walk Iguana Isles and Piranha Fishing & Afternoon Caiman Expedition Dolphin, Birds, & Monkey Expedition DAY 7 Breakfast with Pink Dolphins DAY 3

Magdalena Village or Flooded Forest Fishing Trip Pink Dolphins DAY 8 Macaws at Sunset Iquitos City Tour and Departure DAY 4 Forest of Mirrors Enjoy the sun and DAY 5 spectacular scenery along Nature Excursion the Amazon from the outdoor lounge of the M/V Aria. Jungle Walk; Meet the People

53 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey The Aria’s spacious decks that wrap around the exterior of the boat provide guest with ample room to catch a glimpse of the Amazonian wildlife.

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 54 Wings Over Peru

Above the Peruvian landscape await the most vivid images of a country and culture that can’t be seen any other way. Experience the ultimate Peruvian journey by private plane with Ker & Downey.

55 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Sacred Valley Stunning sunset over Sa- cred Valley is just one of the reasons to take Ker & Downey’s Wings Over Peru by private plane.

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 56 Peru by private plane One of Peru’s most memorable images, the Nazca Lines, are best seen by private plane from above with Ker & Downey’s Wings Over Peru.

57 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Peru’s pre-Hispanic endemic cultures come to life on this Peru’s foremost scholar on the ancient culture, at the journey, uncovered on private tours and private flights that Pyramid of the Moon, Huaca de la Luna. This adobe span the entire country. Trace the fascinating 4,000-year-old pyramid is part of what remains of the ancient Moche history of the indigenous people of Peru at active archeo- capital and is thought to have been the main religious logical sites, learn of their conquest and bear witness to the center of the city. Archeologists have discovered resurgence of many old traditions in the modern society. once-vivid murals depicting Moche deities as well as Though spread over just nine days, you will see more of the skeletal evidence of human sacrifice. Drive through country in a shorter time thanks to the private air transfers, Trujillo to Huanchaco Beach where you will see fish- allowing you to jump quickly between the magnificent sites ermen riding on totora reed boats, a method traced while viewing them from above and up close on terra firma. back to the time of the Moche and possibly the root for the sport of surfing – an activity that remains pop- Lima’s blend of the modern world with the ancient influence ular on the temperate coast. It is also thought that the of long-past civilizations is the perfect place to begin your Moche pioneered the dish ceviche, and in a breezy journey. View pre-Colum- bian and pre-Inca artifacts in the Larco Museum, an extensive private collection comprised of artifacts that were likely misappropriated by colonial-era looters, now Psecured in the former vice- royal mansion. Over lunch, championship Peruvian Paso horses bred for generations by the Rizo Patron family will perform the famous marinera courtship dance and will even allow for a ride so you can experience their comfortable gallop, a trait that makes them an interna- tionally-coveted breed.

Thanks to the private air transfers on this journey, it will be easy to travel to a historically-rich region of Peru that most visitors skip – the northern coast. On your way to the seaside hub of Trujillo, fly over two of northern Peru’s treasures: the Sacred City of Caral and Huascaran National Park. Caral is the oldest city of the Americas, settled between 2600 and 2000 BC, and com- MARKET GOODS Peruvian women in traditional dress weaving outside their home in prises an intricate network Chinchero. of temples, homes and 19 pyramids. View the city from the air and continue to the snowy peaks of Huascaran, Peru’s highest mountain and the centerpiece for the wildlife- beachfront restaurant, the national ceviche champion rich conservation area. Upon landing you will head to the chef will teach you how to create this simple but coast and sprawling Chan Chan, the adobe city constructed hearty meal of fish, lime juice and spices. by the Chimor, descendants of the Moche civilization. Amazing adobe carvings and reliefs depicting pelicans, crab, View several Moche sites from above en route to fishing nets and other coastal imagery are found throughout Chiclayo to see the Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum. the ruins. Its precarious coastal location leaves this ancient Treasures from the tomb where the mummified city under constant threat from rain and wind, causing many remains of the Lord of Sipan were discovered in 1987 of the facades and structures to erode and decay – a constant – miraculously untouched by looters or the elements reminder that the city may not be so easy to explore in the for centuries – are displayed in the museum, a build- near future. ing modeled to look like the Lord’s original tomb. Follow Dr. Walter Alva, the museum’s founder and Uncover the Moche civilization with Dr. Luis Jaime Castillo, lead archaeologist on the tomb’s dig, as he guides you

Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 58 City exploration illustrates the role Catholicism played in the conquest of the ancient Inca capital, and how the church’s pioneering of the Cusco School of Painting led to a surge in the arts.

59 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 60 ALONG THE WAY Clockwise from top left: Cobble streets of Cusco are lined with dwellings full of life, color, and character, which give the city its charm; The Miraflores Park Hotel is privy to some of the best views Lima has to offer; The Inca Citadel of Machu Picchu is one of the many highlights of the Wings Over Peru journey; Opposite: Dr. Walter Alva, founder of the Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum, at dig site.

on a private tour through the stunning collection of gold and rare vicuña wool that is only shorn every three years, jewelry, the largest ever discovered in Peru. and masterful embroidery from the Collaguas culture.

Head into the Andes next and overfly the Valley of Volca- Continue on to Peru’s Sacred Valley of the Incas, the noes and Colca Canyon, one of the world’s deepest canyons, undulating terrain of mountains and valleys home to en route to Arequipa. The “White City” shines brightly, some of the most cherished sites in Andean culture. thanks to the alabaster volcanic rock used to build many of Visit the lofty city of Pisac, where sacred ruins and the colonial-era buildings. Walk through Arequipa’s historic shrines are the focus of a pilgrimage every Septem- center to see Santa Catalina, a sixteenth-century convent ber - while a retail pilgrimage happens three times a where as late as the 1970s the second-born daughters of week at the massive market - and explore the Maras the city’s elite were sent to live out their lives. Sample the salt mines, hundreds of terraced ponds and canals varieties of traditional Andean food at lunch in Casa del that have been a source for salt since pre-Inca times. Moral, an impeccable colonial mansion. Menu offerings for Ancient settlers flocked to this region for the temper- the adventurous include cuy, grilled guinea pig, and chupe ate weather and rich soil and flourished for centuries soup made using a sweet-tasting river shrimp. International in the fertile hills. Crops of colorful maize, groves of designers crave Andean textiles and during lunch you will exotic fruit trees and several hundred varieties of po- enjoy a fashion show of the best of the region – plush alpaca, tato are plentiful in the area, all part of the delicious

61 FALL 2011 | Ker & Downey Ker & Downey | FALL 2011 62 OLLANTAYTAMBO of the complex with leave you breathless. After your The beautiful set- grand guided tour, indulge in an afternoon tea at the ting of this ancient Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge and enjoy a private city between the dinner as you transfer to Cusco, trading air travel Urubamba and the for the scenic mountain train ride once more in the Patakancha Riv- ers, still inhabited pristine comfort of the Hiram Bingham. today. In Cusco’s historic center, a local chef will guide you through the farmer’s market with many of the famil- iar crops from the Andes available in the bustling stalls as he picks a few choice ingredients to cook for you in a “novo-Andean” lunch. Travel into the hills overlooking Cusco to the Sacsayhuaman fortress and explore Koricancha, temple of the sun, in Cusco’s old town. City exploration illustrates the role Catholicism played in the conquest of the ancient Inca capital and how the church’s pioneering of the Cusco School of Painting led to a surge in the arts. You will even see a private sculpture exhibition by the renowned Octavio Mendivil in the San Blas district.

On your last full day in Peru, fly over the mysterious Nasca Lines. Hundreds of drawings of monkeys, lizards, fish and other animals stretch over 50 miles in the desert, etched only a few inches deep in the red earth. This unexplained desert art must be seen from the air to appreciate the marvel of the achieve- ment. Back on the ground, talented barmen will lead you in a pisco tasting, offering several varieties of the famous brandy used to make the country’s bounty you will enjoy in a ritual pachamanca feast. While signature cocktail, the picso sour. For dinner, visit the you dine on this specially roasted meal, stories from Quecha sixteenth-century home Casa De Aliaga, the oldest and Inca lore will be performed by the Yuyachkani theater household inhabited by the same family in all of the and folk arts group, and the art of coca leaf reading can also Americas. Meet the Count and Countess of San Juan be performed by a local shaman. de Luriganco, among the generations of families who have called this stunning mansion home and descen- The impressive ruins of Machu Picchu, the most visited site dants of the home’s original owner, Captain Jeronimo in South America and the world-wide symbol of the Incas, is de Aliaga Ramírez. your next goal. You will spend a day exploring the sanctuary in the shadow of the Andes, but the manner in which you The Miraflores Park Hotel in Lima is the base for the arrive at the citadel is an adventure all its own. Before head- first part of your journey. Between jaunts to the in- ing to the citadel, you might choose to visit remote Willoq, credible coastal heritage sites, spend time in the hos- where women practice the ancient art of weaving colorful pitality suite, which offers refreshments and snacks in tapestries in their simple, isolated village. Another route between excursions. While in the Sacred Valley, enjoy you may take includes touring Ollantaytambo, the fifteenth- the services of the Sol y Luna Lodge and its luxurious century fortress town near the confluence of the Urubamba Yacu Wasi Spa. The sprawling grounds of the hotel and Patakancha Rivers. Though ancient, Ollantaytambo are home to some 30 bird species and the gracious remains an inhabited village today and is a brilliant example Andean décor is a reminder that you are indeed in of a metropolitan grid layout with a number of terraced gar- the remote region of the ancient Incas. In Cusco, the dens, fountains, temples and reinforced armaments spread historic Hotel Monasterio is your destination. As the throughout its expanse. The city served as one of the last name suggests, this resplendent sixteenth-century bastions defending against the Spanish conquistadors at the abode was once a monastery, and while it retains end of the Incan rule, and the halt of the society is evident. its original colonial architecture, the interiors are The area known as Temple Hill features several unfinished plush and modern. Oxygen-enrichment systems to structures which were abandoned mid-construction when assist with acclimatization and an indulgent menu the aggressors threatened the city, causing the leaders to flee of soothing baths drawn for you by a bath butler are for the final time. just a few of the special touches experienced at this grand hotel - a far cry from the spartan feeling of the Continue on from either of these villages to the train station original cloister. for your journey up to Machu Picchu aboard the Hiram Bing- ham. Named after the American explorer who rediscovered Luxurious private air transfers punctuate this cul- the citadel in 1911, this luxury train surrounds you in luscious tural and spiritual journey, ferrying you through the furnishings, premium refreshments and impeccable service timeline of Peru’s many ancient denizens. The scope during a gourmet brunch as you are transported to the heart of the history, mystery and pride of these blended of the sacred site. cultures and ancient sites is so grand in scale that only by air will you be able to view their impact and TCare for more adventure? You may even hike the Qhapaq significance in the Peru of today. Ñan, the ancient Royal Inca Road, and climb almost 500 feet over six miles to Machu Picchu’s Sun Gate. Whichever route you choose to reach the sanctuary, the sheer size and wonder

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SACRED VALLEY OF THE INCAS CUSCO - PERÚ Photography supplied by: Soneva Fushi by six senses