2012 and 2013 Champagne Includes Access to the Complete Digital Archive, Stretching Back 16 Years

This article from The World of Fine Wine may not be sold, altered in any way, or circulated without this statement. Every issue of The World of Fine Wine features coverage of the world’s finest wines in their historical and cultural context, along with news, reviews, interviews, and comprehensive international auction results. A subscription Essi Avellan MW EA | Simon Field MW SF | Anthony Rose AR tasting / savor / 2012 and 2013 Champagne includes access to the complete digital archive, stretching back 16 years. For further information and to subscribe to The World of Fine Wine, please visit www.worldoffinewine.com or call +44 020 7406 6790. SAVOR: 2012 AND 2013 CHAMPAGNE Earliest start date Latest start date We all appreciated, however, the style Overall, I was pleased with the of Louis Roederer’s rosés and all the wines great performance of many of the 2012 AND 2013 CHAMPAGNE: 2012: September 10 2012: September 26* from Palmer & Co. The highest-scoring grower Champagnes on show here. 2013: September 24 2013: October 9** wines from both vintages are very close. Our Top Ten included Larmandier- For the 2012s, Cristal Rosé edged ahead Bernier Les Chemins d’Avize 2013 and *The official end of the harvest, for each cru, is 28 days after TWO SHADES OF COOL the latest start date of the cru. of Palmer & Co Vintage (and two other De Sousa Cuvée des Caudalies Avize 2012, **The official end of the harvest, for each cru, is 21 days after the latest start date of the cru. cuvées) by one third of a point, while the in eighth and ninth position respectively. 2013 pedestal was shared by Roederer My own top grower Champagne was The 2013s can also, however, seem Rosé and Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs. outside the overall Top Ten: J Lassalle Essi Avellan MW compares and contrasts two underappreciated vintages shy and restrained. They appeared almost By all parameters, the 2012 vintage Spécial Club 2012. I also rated the Ulysse unapproachable as vins clairs, and even emerges as the winner. The Top Ten Collin 2013 Chardonnays Les Enfers and that both have claims to greatness even as the wines remain stylistically now they are developing painfully slowly includes six 2012s and four 2013s. The Les Pierrières very highly. different. Simon Field MW and Anthony Rose share a stimulating tasting in the bottle. But the wines come with average score for 2012 was 91.23; for 2013, What both of these vintages surely classic lean structures, lightness, and 90.08. Anthony Rose and I preferred have in common, at least for now, is mouthwatering raciness. They charm the 2012s by one point on average, but underappreciation. There hasn’t been n recent years, the Champenois have with the hot and dry spell lasting until the the grapes’ sugar content was increasing with their elegance and precision. There for Simon the difference was 1.7. much enthusiasm for 2013 so far, and had to adapt to new climatic conditions early days of September. The heatwave even too rapidly, risking leaving too short a is density to them, but the wines are The notion of 2012 being a Pinot Noir even the more recognized 2012 is left in Iand an accelerating frequency of resulted in a rapid accumulation of sugar, window for aroma development. The cool notably acid-driven in a similar manner vintage and 2013 a Chardonnay year was the shadow of the unprecedentedly hyped August harvests. Classic cool and tardy but fortunately the nights remained cool, and humid early September, however, to the 2008s. Looking down at his archive harder to test. We did, however, have six 2008. I gave some top marks in this vintages have become rare, but the early which helped preserve good levels of helped to halt excess sugar accumulation. of ripeness figures, Lécaillon also finds blanc de blancs in the 2013 Top Ten, and tasting to Champagnes that are “mere” 2010s offered a succession of them. The acidity. Harvest began between September Along the way, further challenges were a likeness to the 1988 vintage, which has only three in the 2012 Top Ten, which may Vintage wines, not even prestige cuvées 2012 and 2013 vintages managed to come 10 and 26, the spread in dates reflecting the given by the weather turning wet toward indeed proven its age-worthiness. lend some support to the thesis. —which allows me to look forward with out of their challenging growing seasons heterogeneity between areas. But ripeness mid-September, causing significant The triumph of the 2012s certainly excitement to the treats still in store. n as winners. Both harvests wickedly tested also varied locally, even within a vineyard, outbreaks of rot. The long harvest started The tasting does not mean that 2013 isn’t also a great the growers’ nerves and resilience, making rigorous harvest planning crucial. on September 24 and in some villages as We tasted a total of 61 wines (of which one vintage. Consider that Louis Roederer earning themselves a reputation as It was essential to await the accumulation late as October 9. Most of the picking of was faulty and excluded from the results). Vintage Rosé 2013 averaged only one ESSI AVELLAN MW’S TOP WINES “vine-grower vintages.” They provide of aromatics, which stayed unusually low the abundant yield (12,008kg/ha) took We began with 34 wines from 2012, first point lower than the Cristal Rosé 2012, the Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2012 97 time warps to the past with their classic, for the ripeness levels, especially for place in cool conditions in October, the whites, then the rosés. We repeated overall winner of our tasting. This makes albeit opposing, styles. As the years’ most Chardonnay. Excellent sanitary conditions contributing to a classic cool and linear the same exercise for the 2013s, of which me expect an extraordinary 2013 Cristal Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Brut 2012 96 iconic wines are coming to the market, in the vineyards and high malic-acid levels style of Champagne. The results are we had 26. It was expected that the sample Rosé! Bear in mind, too, that 2012 was Palmer & Co Brut 2012 95 it is time to put the vintages to the test. emboldened growers. varied, but the year favored Chardonnay. numbers for 2012 would be greater, since really only the beginning of a new era for Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs Brut [2013] 95 Although yields were low (9,210kg/ha) For Pinot Noir, the south-facing slopes the vintage is more widely declared. Also, this prestige cuvée, as only since then Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs Brut 2012 95 The 2012 vintage due to frost, hail, and disease early in the of the Montagne de Reims proved most many more 2012s have so far been have all Cristal vineyards been farmed Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2012 94 In the disastrous first half of 2012, Mother season, the 2012 harvest turned out to be successful, the wines displaying a ripe and released, whereas most prestige bottlings biodynamically (even if not certified so). Nature was really testing its growers with of 2013 are still resting in the cellars. The 2013 presents itself as a cool, Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage exemplary in its maturity, acidity, and fleshy character. The conditions on the Extra Brut 2012 94 what looked like becoming the second health. Average potential alcohol was northern side of the Montagne were more Disappointingly we only had five pairs classy, slow-aging vintage, a style that is GH Mumm Brut 2012 94 catastrophic year in a row. The challenges 10.6% and total acidity 7.8g/l (H2SO4). It is challenging in terms of ripeness and rot of exactly the same cuvée from both years, becoming endangered in today’s climate. began in February, when two intense cold widely regarded as a Pinot Noir vintage, pressure. The average potential alcohol which makes comparison much more When will we see another October Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé Brut 2012 94 spells hit the region. Spring continued though Meunier was also a winner. of the musts reached 9.8%, and the total challenging. Still, based on this tiny harvest? The tight and introverted style is Pol Roger Brut 2013 94 cool and wet, showing record downpours acidity remained at 8.5g/l. sample, the verdict was unanimous. Each harder to appreciate today than the open J Lassalle Special Club Premier Cru Brut 2012 94 since 1994, which put strong mildew The 2013 vintage of us preferred the 2012 in every case. The and instantly enjoyable 2012s. Moreover, Louis Roederer Rosé 2013 93 pressure on the vines. To add insult The 2013 vintage also began cool and wet. Similar but different duo was tightest from Pol Roger, each of many of the best 2013s are still resting in Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Brut 2012 93 to injury, frost hit the vineyards on Winter frosts were frequent and snowfalls Even if the growing seasons had a lot us giving exactly one point more to the the cellars. The second quarter of 2021 will five occasions, with some 2,900ha (7,200 numerous. The growing season was of common features and the wines do not 2012. The GH Mumm 2012 beat the 2013 witness one moment of truth when the Ulysse Collin Les Enfers Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV [2013] 93 acres) destroyed. The damages were delayed by some 15 days compared to the look that dissimilar on paper, stylistically by 2.33 points. For Deutz, the margin duo of 2013 Cristals are released. But we Ulysse Collin Les Pierrières Blanc de Blancs accentuated by nine episodes of hail. ten-year average as both March and April they are wide apart. The 2012s, in all was 2.67; for Palmer & Co, 3.33; and for will need to wait another few years for Extra Brut NV [2013] 93 But all was not lost, even if the climatic remained cool despite a short hot spell in their fruity concentration, are instantly Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque, 4.00. most of the other iconic prestige cuvées. Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Brut 2013 93 roller coaster had managed to cause April. The cool and rainy season gave rise impressive. They were quick to show Our opinions varied greatly over the The jury is still out, then, regarding extreme heterogeneity in the vineyards. to intense mildew pressure and flowering their textured generosity and well-built Belle Epoque 2013, but this wine was by the longevity of the two vintages. They Flowering was some six days behind the ten- took place as late as the end of June or structures, even as base wines. Among no means the only one where our scores will both age extremely well, since all the year average, and the fruit-set remained even early July. Summer finally arrived many of the year’s advocates, Louis spread. This divergence is due mostly to building blocks of longevity are there, but AVERAGE AND RANGE OF SCORES tricky. But once again, Champagne’s in Champagne then, and the following Roederer’s chef de cave Jean-Baptiste stylistic issues, with tolerance to oxidative which one will age better? The compact Average Range famous August miracle came to the rescue, months ended up being spectacularly hot, Lécaillon counts the year among characters being the biggest divider of and reserved 2013 clearly needs more the weather turning glorious by late July, dry, and sunny. In the ideal conditions Champagne’s greatest, finding a strong opinion. I have very little tolerance of time, and its elegance will probably Tasting 91 82–97 resemblance with 1947. One can really oxidation, so the range of scores for greatly reward the patient. The 2012 is Potential Total acidity Malic acid Tartaric acid Yield Year pH taste sunshine in them, but alongside the Drappier’s Millésime Exception 2013, for beautifully here and now, but its great EA 91 83–97 alcohol (% vol) (H2SO4 g/l) (g/l) (g/l) (kg/ha) richness deriving partly from the low example, was as wide as 13. It was almost concentration and fine freshness promise SF 2012 10.6 7.8 3.05 6.2 8.1 9,210 yields there is a brisk kick of perfectly as wide for J Lassalle Spécial Club 2012 longevity as well. For the time being, I 89 82–94 integrated acidity, bringing vibrancy to the (12 points), Gosset Grand Millésime 2012 would be willing to bet my money on the 2013 9.9 8.5 3.04 7 7.3 12,008 AR 92 88–97 wines and saving them from heaviness. (9), and Ulysse Collin Les Enfers 2013 (9). classically lean and refined 2013.

phenolic and rich, a gem awaiting discovery; and yellow-apple and mirabelle plum fruit. SAVOR: 2012 AND 2013 CHAMPAGNE Charles Heidsieck Millésime Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs SIMON FIELD MW’S VERDICT Brut 2012 (12% ABV) 94 Brut 2013 (12% ABV) 93 powerful and assertive; citrus and red fruits Spicy, woody complexity. Really structured and happily ensconced here in a virtuous cycle of vinous on the palate, showing some age already. An enticing juxtaposition, this, with the with co-ops (Mailly and Palmer) holding their EA | Deep gold. Stunning, fragrantly toasty, EA | Medium-deep lemon color. Lovely purity pleasure. | 92 Fine transparency, but it would be enhanced by balance narrowly favoring 2012 in terms of own against fashionable growers (Larmandier- come-hither nose. Roasted coffee beans, dried to the fruit, which has cotton-candy and vanilla AR | Mid-gold in color, this is attractively berry- even greater elegance. | 91 submissions (58% v 42%) but, in my analysis Bernier and De Sousa) and of course the great apricots, vanilla, and crème brûlée. Delicious and sweetness lingering around the lemon and white- like and vivid in aroma, with a satisfyingly dry SF | Generous color here; sandy, hints of ochre; at least, hugely favoring the older vintage in houses, Gosset and Perrier-Jouët, joining Louis ever-changing melange. Super-sweet fruit on the fruit richness. Fine delicacy to the fruit and such foaming mousse that spreads evenly across the an assertive, slightly stentorian nose of honeydew terms of appreciation. After all the sound and Roederer summa cum laude. Indeed, it may be creamy-silky palate. Impressively intense and a subtle toasty nuance. The palate shows some tongue with its berry-fruit flavors enveloped in a melon, fig, and elderflower, rhubarb and griotte; fury about 2008 versus 2002, with the former, surmised that the difference between the Belle clean. Really long and super-fruity palate, with evolution, being really seductively creamy and marshmallow softness of texture, and turns into unresolved, hitherto, oak at the prow. The palate more chiseled vintage probably now in the Epoques somewhat underlines the polarity of fine freshness. | 96 mellow but refreshed by the exemplary acid line. a salty, blackberry-like, dry bite on the finish. | 92 brings into play caramel and preserved salted ascendant, herewith another contender for this tasting, with 2012 overall so much more SF | Pleasing soft gold color, hints of buckwheat Long, pure, and brightly fruity finish. | 92 lemon; camphor, cumin, and late-season apples, greatness. What will come to rival 2012? concentrated and inspiring than 2013. and straw; the mousse draws quickly; nose of SF | Soft pewter on bed of nacreous indulgence; more exotic notes behind that; guava, pineapple, Louis Roederer Rosé 2013 2015 maybe, or, with time, at least one of the The only caveat, if indeed it is a caveat, lemongrass, strawberry, and fig, with a hint of a gloriously inviting nose of praline, spice, and 93 and mango. Encyclopedic in aspiration, and (12% ABV) highly promising trinity of ’18, ’19 and ’20… is that some of these wines are almost almond essence and soft plum juice behind; malt loaf; the palate is symphonic, generous well on the way to justifying its intent; youthful Let’s wait and see. overwhelming in their generosity. The bizarre pleasingly savory and with a suggestion of of dosage for sure, but making up for it with a EA | Pretty, pale salmon color. The elegantly ambition will blossom for sure. | 92 But not, in all likelihood, 2013, a famously meteorological conditions of 2012 (hail, frost, jambon cru and wild strawberry, this is a very purity of fruit (melon, plum, and strawberry come cool and restrained fruitiness is inviting. AR | Pale golden hue, this is rich in aromatic late and reticent vintage. Some delightful ’13s rain, and so on in the early part of the season) accomplished and pleasingly enigmatic piece to mind) and an impressive citric grip which Crunchy red fruit with a twist of toast. The energy, with notes of popcorn and butterscotch, were on display here, for sure, but few really served to concentrate the crop that remained, of work. | 91 forewarns of a sensuous evolution. | 91 acidity on the round and fleshy palate is suggesting a proportion of barrel fermentation. stood out. Indeed, of the 11 wines I scored at yielding ripe, small berries and powerful, AR | Pale gold in color, this fizz displays an AR | Pale with green glints, this is an accomplished invigorating. Really good energy, leading to While on the palate, the texture is rich with 92 points or above, only one (Louis Roederer assertive wines. Often during the tasting I attractive balanced aroma of fruit and light fizz which sets out with an instantly appealing a pristinely fruity, long, sweet finish. | 93 underlying buttery notes framed by an almost Rosé 2013) was from the younger vintage. discerned sugar in wines that turned out to toastiness, and this follows through on the tongue aromatic complexity to it, light leesy notes SF | Coppery amber; small bubbles; an attractive surprisingly soft acidity, thanks to an evolution A good day, all in all, for the house of Roederer, have had little, if any, added. The ripeness was with an expansive, mouth-filling mousse whose combining with an appealing cashew-like nose of wild strawberry, fig, and plum, citric, that suggests drinking over the next three to M Lecaillon’s march toward perfection all, and was, in general, well managed and in fruit flavors are supported by a nutty-lees-aged, nuttiness, while the texture is delicate and chalky restraint not too far behind... An attractive five years. | 94 continuing apace, more and more tinged by no way detrimental to the shape of the wines toasty complexity in a fizz that’s really well energetically effervescent, coating the tongue hedgerow note, phenolics evidenced and a little organic aspiration (and certified recognition). or their structural harmony. But if this pattern balanced and refreshingly bone-dry. | 94 with an intensity of light toast and stone-fruit awkward with the dosage; overall, however, an Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Anyway, some lovely wines here, certainly, continues, and if the harvests get earlier and flavors, all supported by finely balanced, juicily impressive symphonic structure and one that is 92 Extra Brut 2012 (12.5% ABV) my lack of super-high marks reflecting more earlier, we really might be burdened with the refreshing acidity. | 95 sure to grow in stature over the medium term. | 92 Palmer & Co Brut 2012 the fact that these wines are still very youthful paradox of “too much of a good thing.” In 2012, 94 AR | A light coppery pink in color, this is a EA | Medium-deep lemon color. Gorgeously (12% ABV) and will, over time, give more—and gain even however, and happily, let’s agree to settle on well-made, delicate rosé Champagne that toasty nose, with roasted coffee beans, hay, Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs more. Terrific to see plaudits across the board, the good thing. EA | Medium-lemon color. Sophisticated nose, Brut [2013] (12% ABV) 93 combines fresh, mouth-filling raspberry fruit, fireworks, and vanilla. Really pristine yet ripe fruit, with creamy-toasty complexity. Rich and with light toasty notes on the palate, in a with a reductive profile. Balanced palate, with expressive, with lovely gunpowdery whiffs. Round EA | Bright lemon color. Stunningly toasty and medium-weight, vinous fizz with fine, tangy intense yet soft fruitiness, creamy texture, and TOP WINES palate, emphasizing the dried-fruit profile. There charmingly sweetly fruity nose. Such complexity cranberryish bite and grip on the finish; will fine freshness. Easy to drink and appealing. is volume and freshness on the sweetly fruity, and finesse. On the palate, it is polished and serve double duty, as an apéritif but also as a Shows some mellowing but very youthful still. | 94 instantly impressive palate. Long finish. | 95 creamy, with licorice and vanilla layers. Long taste food wine to go with the likes of lobster. | 94 SF | Soft silvery luster; luminosity, with an Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2012 94 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Extra Brut 2012 91 SF | Attractive, soft gold color; gentle mousse; in perfect harmony. Succulently fruity, with some attractive mousse; ludicrous in its best sense. De Sousa Cuvée des Caudalies Blanc de Blancs Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs Brut 2013 91 nose of briary, plum, hazelnut, and quince; and evolution but youthful still. | 95 Drappier Grand Cru Blanc de Plum skin, hints of verbena and bracken, and Grand Cru Avize Les Pierres Vaudons Extra Brut Henriot Rosé Brut 2012 91 enhances the promise hitherto demonstrated; SF | As is often the case, a modest color belies Blancs Brut 2012 (12% ABV) 92 then a subtext of impressive, salty macadamia. 2012 93 the red fruit now more vibrant, the citric elements a wonderfully expressive nose; the small but The palate is still very youthful, with a spicy, Gosset Grand Millésime Brut 2012 93 J Lassalle Special Club Premier Cru Rosé clearer of definition, slate and flint on the finish; persistent mousse offers a clue, but, even so, EA | Glossy lemon color. Stylish, evolving nose, almost vinous appeal; quinine and almond Brut 2013 91 Palmer & Co Brut 2012 92 peat and forest floor; all most satisfying! | 92 the olfactory surprise is impressive; figs, nougat, with nuanced fruit. A little pastry, brown butter, essence and a playful, still youthful, sweetly Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2013 91 AR | Pale gold, this has that intriguing beer-yeasty, plum, and honeydew melon. Votive and richly Golden Delicious apple, and baking spices. joyful mid-palate. | 91 Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé Brut 2012 92 sourdough nose, suggesting beneficial lees-aged indulgent, hints of linseed and even coconut oil Plush, voluptuous palate, with age-mellowed AR | Pale-lemon hue, with greeny glints to it; Pierre Gimonnet & Fils 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2012 92 Oenophile Brut Nature Non Dosé 2012 91 development; and it follows through on the palate, also evidenced. The pleasure principle is in no creaminess. Concentrated, with a long-lasting, pleasantly aromatic, some struck-match, leesy which shows an intense ripe fruitiness bisected way forsaken by a palate that combines the rich, sweetly fruity finish. In a lovely drinking age notes, attractive stone-fruit flavors, more on the Louis Roederer Rosé 2013 92 Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus Premier Cru by a trenchant fresh acidity in a delicate and indulgent promise of the nose, with oaky grip and but no hurry. | 90 fruity than the complex side, with a nice juiciness Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Non Dosé 2012 91 Larmandier-Bernier Les Chemins d’Avize complex fine mousse that dissolves, with tangy, impressive concentration of fruit. If the charm SF | Bright, clean, luminous yet pale at the rim; of texture, a degree of complexity, and good, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut 2013 92 Louis Roederer Rosé Brut Nature 2012 91 Cox’s apple bite, into a finely balanced, long, is somewhat ethereal, dissipating promptly, this attractive, all in all; nose of flowers and spice, tangy, dry finish. | 90 dry finish. | 94 in no way undermines the glimpses of wealth the gentle fizz nonetheless persistent and Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé Leclerc Briant Blanc de Blancs Grand Blanc Extra Brut 2012 92 Brut Zéro 2013 91 thereby carefully restored in the memory. | 90 powerful; citric lemongrass and hints of toffee, GH Mumm Brut 2012 92 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé AR | Pale lemon, with greeny glints, this is nectarine and acacia; well judged, with a most (12.5% ABV) Marie-Courtin Eloquence Blanc de Blancs Mailly Exception Blanche Grand Cru 2012 (12% ABV) 94 expressive and complex in its aromatic power, pleasing persistence. | 89 Chardonnay Extra-Brut 2012 92 Blanc de Blancs Brut 2012 91 showing its lees-aged autolysis with an almost AR | Pale gold in color, this is intriguingly rich EA | Pale-lemon color. A super-refined nose Mailly Grand Cru Brut L’Intemporelle 2012 92 De Sousa Cuvée des Caudalies Blanc de Blancs EA | Radiant peachy color. Understatedly elegant struck-match note of high toastiness, in Puligny- and complex, yet still remarkably fresh and of gently toast-complexed fruit; whiffs of fruit Grand Cru Le Mesnil Les Chetillons Extra Brut nose, with cool restraint. Pristine fruit with smoky Montrachet vein, and that follows through in the at the same time savory in aroma, one that drops, vanilla, and toffee over pristinely ripe Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs Brut 2012 91 2012 91 touches. Peach, Golden Delicious apple, yuzu, mouth with an expansively rich, mouth-fillng gets the saliva juices flowing; on the palate, fruitiness. Lovely soft volume to the palate, strawberry, and marshmallows. Really harmonious mousse, underpinned by leesy, matchsticky its freshness is in no way compromised, thanks of the smoothest mousse. Creamy and intense, and seductive on the plush, silky smooth palate. notes, tapering to a dry finish spliced with lemony to a bright, vivacious acidity, and at the same with a long carry. Starting to drink very well, Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque long and eloquent, pleasingly resourceful. Stone- Such drinkability, easiness, and purity. Youthful freshness. | 94 time the intensity of fruit and complexity shines with expression. | 94 Brut 2012 (12.5% ABV) 92 fruit potential. | 89 still, and will take time. | 97 through, etched with that bright acidity but SF | Subtle nose, yet with a lively mousse; tobacco AR | Pale gold in color, there’s a note of plum and SF | Soft onion-skin color, a bronze hue; incredible Louis Roederer Cristal supported and balanced by toasty, lees-aged leaf, pineapples, quince, and a hint of verbena; EA | Bright lemon color. Pristinely fruity nose, with light toast on the nose, while on the palate, a ripe nose of citric fruit, red berries, and a hint of Brut 2012 (12% ABV) 93 development, in such a way that while it’s more chalk without dust; power without depth; a well- a subtle toasty expression to it. Crisp and crunchy, stone-fruit purity is cut by a lively fresh bite of caramel; the palate maintains and enhances than ready to drink now, it has a decade or longer rehearsed piece, feeding from the benevolence but still perfectly ripe fruit. Peaches, yellow apple, trenchantly fresh acidity in a very well-balanced this great potential; savory, lifted, salty, even a EA | Glossy lemon color. Fine, fruity nose with of aging potential. | 96 of the vintage, and assuredly with much to deliver pear, vanilla, and mirabelle plums. Highly polished, blend combining both fresh fruit purity with a touch gamey; an archetype of a developed and lovely gunpowder and vanilla whiffs. Subtle and down the track, although it promises much with the creamiest mousse to it. Caressingly degree of nutty complexity and trenchant bite supremely challenging rose; welcome in itself, but polished but comes with complexity. Richer and Larmandier-Bernier already! | 90 textured and attractive, with a long, super-fruity on the finish, making for an attractively vinous in this instance, more so, its potential resounding more pronounced on the palate. Concentrated, Les Chemins d’Avize Grand Cru AR | Lemony in color, this is attractively fresh, finish. Youthful still but starting to give a full Champagne. | 92 within a persuasive inner tension. | 94 with loads of delicious fruit. A big, bold style but Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut 2013 92 with an alluring, bright, fruit quality on the nose expression of itself. | 96 AR | Mid-bronze color, this shows vivid, berry-like successfully so. Plenty of expression already but (12.5% ABV) and a degree of complexity, while the palate is SF | Pewter gold; a nose of lemongrass, straw, Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 92 aromas and a hint of lees-aged complexity; on the will improve. | 94 bright and vibrantly fruit, quite winey in a way, and spring flowers, the future underwritten by Brut 2012 (12.5% ABV) palate, its bright and vivid cranberryish flavors SF | Lifted and lively, a little SO2 for good measure, EA | Richly colored hue. A characterful nose, too; overall, well-balanced and mouthwateringly honeyed potential; honey, lemon, plum, and taper to an elegantly dry finish. | 91 banana and plum skin, chocolate and verbena; with interesting yeasty tones, floral whiffs, bone-dry on the finish. | 92 verbena; an elegiac, attractive nose and palate, EA | Pale peachy color. Attractively fruity yet

elegant nose with sweet peach, candy, and De Sousa Cuvée des Caudalies and complex, with ripe stone fruit dominating, the nose, which follows through on the palate with an appealing sweetish berry-like fruit aromatic character, with sweet butterscotch and SAVOR: 2012 AND 2013 CHAMPAGNE burned-sugar notes. Lots of ripe fruit there, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Avize leading to an attractively rich foaming mousse of with a finely judged purity of fruit supported by flavor and fine texture, supported by good, fresh cashew notes, and a light savory edge to it, while compacted and generous. The freshness is still Les Pierres Vaudons 2012 92 persistent bubbles that deliver ripe peachy fruit serious, complexing light toasty notes, all finely cranberry-like bite, the acidity bringing balance the palate delivers a fine-textured mousse of ripe there, complemented by the perfect creaminess Extra Brut (12.5% ABV) in abundance and a light complexing veneer of balanced and tantalisingly complex, finishing and a nice dry feel to the finish. | 90 fruit and light, lees-aged, nutty flavors, finishing of the mousse. Juicy and mouthwateringly zingy. toastiness, adding delicacy to a finely judged, on a mouth-wateringly dry note. | 95 elegantly dry. | 93 Drinking very well already but will take time EA | Medium-deep lemon. Ripe and powerful savory blend that finishes on a mouthwateringly Leclerc Briant Blanc de Blancs very well. | 94 appley nose, with some oxidative evolution and tangy, dry note. | 93 Henriot Rosé Brut 2012 91 Grand Blanc Brut Zero 2013 91 Mailly Exception Blanche Grand SF | Gentle citric verbena color; subtle, plenty of yeast impact. Big, bold palate, with (12% ABV) (12% ABV) Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut 2012 91 savory evolution; jambon cru, strawberry, and chunky fruit and plenty of acidity. Turbo-boosted. Pierre Gimonnet & Fils 1er Cru (12% ABV) lemongrass; soft phenols and a seductive creamy Long, powerful, winey finish. | 89 Blanc de Blancs Oenophile EA | Deep salmon color. Rich Pinot nose with EA | Glossy medium-deep lemon color. Rich, palate; the finish is vinous yet poised, elegant of SF | Golden hue, small neat bubbles, finely Brut Nature Non Dosé 2012 91 pencil shavings, licorice, and pepper, alongside expressive nose with a slight lift to it. Some EA | Medium-deep lemon color. An evolving nose, construction and with an unfathomably resonant calibrated; reduction blows off quickly, then there (12.5% ABV) cherry and strawberry fruit. Interesting character. autumnal, buttery and appley tones. Moderate with sweet, toffee-laden fruit. Vanilla, apple, and ethereal lift on the finish. | 92 are discernible notes of quince, lanolin, and yellow A lot on the palate, but not heavy. Gastronomic toasty undernotes. Rich, generous palate, with honey. Some oxidative tones. Sweet, powerful AR | A delicate pale bronze in color, this is fresh peach, ripe and expressive. This encouraging EA | Glossy lemon color. Expressive nose showing style. Ready to drink but can keep. | 92 an expansive mousse. Very dry finish, cutting palate, with a creamy mousse and soft, vinous and fruity in aroma, that fruitiness following prelude carries effortlessly to the palate, where some evolution. Yellow apple, lemon, peach, SF | Attractive nose; russet, fox fur, amber plus; off some of the length. A touch oxidative, which finish. | 88 through onto the palate is a juicy, berry-like soft honey, vanillin pod, and hints of praline kick orange blossom, and hazelnuts. There was more then a nose to die for, the wildest strawberry brings rusticity. | 88 SF | Straw gold, heavy on the latter in its Byzantium fruitiness that finishes on a cleansing dry note. | 89 in; balanced acidity, incredible power, yet with softness and appeal to the nose, whereas the and lemongrass; citronella, plush, blackcurrant SF | Straw-bright, lively mousse; linseed, slightly indulgence; a vinous indolence when it comes perfectly nuanced phenolic grip and a swathe palate is very dry, showing some contrast. Still fine leaf and a hint of verbena; strawberry fool on the sappy nose; quince and a hint of bracken; the to the mousse; hazelnuts and winter jasmine Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs of all-encompassing acidity; all in all, a terrific plushness of fruit and generosity, with balanced palate, balanced acidity and sugar, and plenty of palate is full, firm, and positive; verbena and (should such a thing exist); cashmere-plush, but Brut 2012 (12.5% ABV) 92 endorsement of the discreet power of this most but sufficient acidity. | 91 seductive red-fruit charm. | 91 spring flowers, sourdough and a hint of brioche; not oxidized, not yet anyway; late-season windfall, wonderfully complicated vintage. | 93 SF | Precise nose of verbena, flint, and nectarine; AR | A deepish coppery bronze in color, this is full-figured without flabbiness, joyful of the rites Siegfried Sassoon elegiac, something profound yet EA | First bottle: TCA. Second bottle pristinely AR | Rich mid-gold, alluring ripe apricot and sweet the color is modest, the bead tightly wound. Great invitingly fresh and aromatic, with a fine cushion of youthful, gently oaked indulgence. | 91 unstated. Oh, for a little more fizz here! | 91 fruity. Very youthful, with creamy-complexed, nutty aromas; a richly flavored, finely textured persistence on the palate, yet with a lacy filigree of berryish bubbles expansively spreading across AR | Pale golden hue, expressively rich aromas AR | Pale gold in color, this draws you in from subtly toasty fruit and a whiff of gunpowder. mousse of persistent bubbles, delivering fine delicacy and a power unusual in a blanc de blancs, the tongue with juicy raspberry fruit flavors that combining notes of farm butter and light the start with expressive aromatic power and Lemon, peach, yellow plums, and white flowers. stone-fruit and light toasty flavors to the tongue, its phenolic subtext naggingly persuasive. | 91 deliver a satisfyingly tangy, fresh and fruity yet toast with a degree of nuttiness, very inviting; complexity, displaying a combination of dried The palate is round and generous, softly bubbling, along with a serious vinosity that brings grip to AR | Pale golden hue, showing a degree of ultimately dry and sophisticated fizz. | 91 delicately textured mousse, with a Chardonnayish stone-fruit intensity and biscuit and brioche on with a salty, mineral tang to it. Superbly clean a tangy-fresh, very well-balanced fizz that would popcorn and nutty evolution in its aroma, with a butteriness and fine, incisive blade of acidity for the nose, following through to a finely balanced, fruit and sweet, appealing, and polished finish. work as an aperitif but go equally well with white- light brioche note; nicely balanced, ripe stone-fruit Larmandier-Bernier Terre de a satisfying dry finish. | 94 textured mousse, which shows equal elements of Lovely radiance of fruit. | 95 fish dishes; a fizz whose energy and freshness mousse, supported by a lively, bright acidity, stone-fruit flavor and leesy complexity, all finishing Vertus Premier Cru Non Dosé 91 SF | Dreamy, hazy, pleasing, milky color and should carry this through another decade. | 95 tapering toward a clean, dry finish. | 91 Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature AR Lenoble Chouilly Grand Cru with its bright fresh acidity on a satisfyingly aromatic, with pineapple, mandarin, and well- 2012 (12.5% ABV) Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2012 91 cleansing dry note. | 94 integrated yeast to the fore; white peach, cumin, Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Special (12% ABV) and verbena thereafter; the palate rehearses Brut 2012 (12% ABV) 91 Club Grands Terroirs de EA | Deep color. Powerful nose full of rich fruit, Mailly Grand Cru Brut and then accentuates the best of these notes; Chardonnay Brut 2012 91 with spicy and buttery complexity. Generous, EA | Medium-deep lemon color. There is lovely L’Intemporelle 2012 (12% ABV) 91 mandarin and spice, soft pepper and quasi-exotic EA | Bright lemon-green color. Fine, evolving (12.5% ABV) vinous palate, with an expansive mousse. subtleness to the ripe fruity nose. Floral with plush; a saucerful of secrets, indulgently entwined, complexity to the nose. Pristine white-fruit profile, Licorice comes across notably in the aromatics. vanilla, fruit drops, and even tropical fruit. EA | Medium-deep lemon color. Rather singular but with great care. | 91 with pear, pineapple, and peach complemented by EA | Evolving lemon color. Smoke-completed nose Intense palate, which has sweet fruit and a long, Voluptuous, soft palate, with a creamy mousse appley fruit, with a lift to it. More attractive on AR | Pale lemony green in color, this is pleasingly lemon and lime. Less complexity to the palate, but with earthy tones over intense fruit. There is an winey finish. | 90 and balanced acidity. Medium-long, juicy, the round, bold palate. A little obvious, with a fresh in aroma, with light underlying hints of fine, zingy, crunchy fruit. Long and sweetly fruity, element of dust to it. Powerful and concentrated SF | Flaxen straw, with a lively mousse, and delicious palate. Still youthful. | 92 sweet expression. | 89 nuttiness and a degree of lees-aged complexity succulent finish. Still youthful, with plenty of fruity but it comes with a lovely vivacity. Shows pleasing aromatics of plum, raisin, peach, and SF | Soft gold; a very playful mousse, slow to SF | Gentle gold-straw color; a nose of vanillin, which follows through on the palate in a nicely appeal. | 93 evolution already but no hurry. | 90 brioche; grippy oaky indulgence, measured dissipate; then a most attractive nose of autumn quince, and red apples; lovely, rich, expressive balanced fizz that’s refreshingly tangy, with a SF | Soft straw-gold color; small, almost ineffably SF | Lime-gold color; an excitable mousse and dosage, and a reassuring finish, touched by leaves, spice, apples, and just a hint of jasmine; palate, which sings raspberry, plum, and the cleansing, dry finish. | 91 discreet bubbles; nose of nectarine, lemongrass, an equally seductive aromatic of citric fruit, intriguing notes of orange essence and juniper, the leitmotif of leafy indulgence translates well Song of Songs; an eloquent, resonant wine, for and a hint of white chocolate; the palate is pineapple, sea-salt, and lemongrass; nice tension square-sailed and flowing seamlessly. | 91 onto the palate, which has on the one hand a all that, articulate yet pure, red and citric fruit Eric Rodez La Pierre aux Larrons immediately attractive, citric fruit parrying with on the mid-palate, all the indulgent potential AR | Pale lemon to gold in color, an attractive gently creamy, seductive indulgence, but on the harmoniously entwined, with plenty of potential Ambonnay Grand Cru Brut 92 more exotic elements; spruce and even a hint of of the vintage held in sway by rigor and an note of sweet digestive biscuit and caramel other an impressive grip, acidity, and phenols, thereafter. | 92 Chardonnay 2013 (12.5% ABV) licorice. Thereafter the prose resumes: figs, sloes, undeniable self-belief. | 90 wafer; fine, richly flavored mousse of delicate fruit and autolytic evolution all kept pleasingly AR | Mid-gold; the aromas are a tad subdued but and a hint of diacetyl... This one is nice enough but AR | Pale gold, this is fresh and attractively sweet bubbles, carrying leesy-nutty and ripe peachy in synch. | 90 there’s some evident subtle complexity in a degree EA | Medium-deep lemon color, with some maybe promises more than it delivers. | 89 in aroma, with hints of honey and biscuit, while the flavors across the tongue toward an expressive, AR | Pale lemon with greeny glints; a fresh, solids of lightly toasty, lees-aged development, while evolution. Soft, yeast-complexed nose, with AR | Pale lemon with green glints; a hint of Chardonnay fruit on the palate is delicately spread dry finish. | 93 / nutty aromatic quality; finely textured mousse of there’s a distinct tang on the tongue, with each charred tones. Spicy, appley fruit. Tart palate, honeycomb on the nose; quite rich and ripe on the across the tongue by a finely textured mousse juicy ripe bubbles, very user-friendly in its flavors and every bubble, in a youthful, almost elemental with expansive, slightly coarse mousse. A richly mid-palate, with a nice tanginess of crisp acidity that carries delicate fruit flavors, light toast, J Lassalle Special Club Rosé and textures with attractively balancing acidity fizz which combines fruit with both grip and a fruity, generous, evolved style. | 90 and a grip on the finish that needs food. | 90 and that sweet honeyed note with it, leading Brut Premier Cru Brut 2013 91 and a nicely dry finish. | 91 slightly austere touch of salty dryness on the SF | Straw-yellow, bright but modest of hue; to a well-balanced, dry finish. | 92 (12% ABV) finish. | 93 a gentle mousse and nose of soft oak, cashew Deutz Brut 2012 Marie-Courtin Eloquence and orange blossom; an attractive palate marked (12% ABV) 91 Gosset Grand Millésime EA | Pale salmon color. Seductively fruity nose Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay 91 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 91 by the juxtaposition of notes of mirabelle plum, Brut 2012 (12% ABV) with sweet strawberry, cranberry, and raspberry Extra-Brut 2012 (12% ABV) Rosé Extra Brut 2012 91 summer flowers, soft spice, and hints of tangerine. EA | Medium-lemon color. Nuanced nose, with fruit. Lovely gentle charred toastiness surfaces (12.5% ABV) Oak tightens the palate, its full expression hitherto prominently appley and spicy characters; also EA | Lemony color. Really buttery nose, with toffee underneath. Toastiness is stronger on the soft, EA | Deep golden color. A really expressive denied, save for the agreeable citric and peachy dried apricots, honey, and earthy notes. Vinous, and vanilla taking over the fruit. So buttery on the pleasurable palate. Appealing sweetness of fruit nose—jumps at you. Rich, impressive toastiness EA | Deep cherry-hued color. Expressive, bold, notes, themselves bolstered by more exotic ripely fruity, concentrated palate. Structured and vinous palate, too; rather too much. | 86 and mouth-watering juiciness. Pure pleasure— and heaps of ripe, intense fruit underneath. Pinot nose, with complexing spiciness. Rich nuance of tangerine and pistachio. An impressive oily smooth, with long, firm, yet fruity finish. Nicely SF | Generous Welsh gold color; a lively mousse, easygoing but not simple. | 92 Shows charred evolution. The palate is less and chunky on the palate, which comes with piece of work; even if one has only, Theseus-like, structured and monumental but could do with a keen to please; delicious nose of vanillin, SF | Onion-skin color, a playful and persistent exciting, with vinosity taking over. Long, powerful a slightly coarse mousse. Not hugely complex, started to unthread the message. | 90 little more finesse. | 92 pineapple, lemon posset, and irrefutable potential. mousse; the nose is equally attractive; rosehip, finish. Blockbuster style. | 89 but big character presented here. A touch of AR | Pale gold in color, this has immediate SF | Softer color, dawn after the mist has risen; The palate does not undermine such optimism; spruce, fig, and nectarine; finely judged palate; SF | Impressive Welsh gold color, fine bubbles; phenolics at the finish. Drinks very well but can aromatic appeal, showing sweet praline and light a fine mousse and a distinctive aromatic of pine it accentuates it, for sure, maybe at a pace, so sugar, red fruit, developed spices (nutmeg comes the nose is more savory than oxidized; sous- take further time. | 91 toasty notes, an apparent oak hint, too, followed in nut, verbena and mirabelle plum. Thereafter the that the more flamboyant strawberry and plush to mind), and a hint of the savory; jambon cru bois, dried fruit, peat, and ripe pineapple to the SF | Incredible, dense amber-russet; the nose the mouth by a full-flavored yet delicate mousse palate opens up indulgently, and one wonders notes enter the descant a little nervous of those behind the crushed raspberry; white pepper and fore; here we have concentration and ripeness of fireworks, incense, crushed raspberry, and of fine bubbles delivering lovely, toasty, nut and if the sugar added may have compromised who may be required to support their eloquent stone fruit. Creamy and approachable, in no way rather than oxidation, one surmises. The palate verbena is entirely unresolved but wonderfully butterscotch flavors, supported by well-balanced the promise previously demonstrated; a very peroration. | 93 overly indulged; pleasant now. | 91 confirms the optimistic thesis; vanillin and plum, intriguing; peat, dried fruit, essence of raspberry, acidity that tapers to an appetizing, dry finish. agreeable wine for all that! | 89 AR | Pale gold in color, this shows fine complexity AR | Pale coppery pink in color, this smells sweetly architectural power and a lovely poised finish. | 92 and a umami subplot that defies early Classic Chardonnay-driven blanc de blancs. | 95 AR | Pale gold in color, the nose is fresh, alluring, of fruit and lees-aged, honeycomb nuttiness on strawberryish, and follows through on the palate AR | Pale gold, this has an immediately attractive interpretation. A suivre. | 92

AR | A deepish coppery pink in color, there’s the nose, light leesy notes, an instant hit of side rather than fruit per se; fatigued before it has oak; the palate is texturally oily, courtesy of the SAVOR: 2012 AND 2013 CHAMPAGNE ANTHONY ROSE’S VERDICT lots of strawberry-fruit aromas inviting into a fine bubbles on the tongue, expanding into an even started? The palate is equally enigmatic; oak, no doubt, but beyond any initial shock, there Champagne in which berry fruitiness dominates appealing dried-fruits mousse underpinned by autumnal sepulchral intimations refuse to be is citric dexterity, then digestive biscuits and spice, as the bubbles exploding onto the tongue My average mark for the 2012 vintage was and many showed extremely well. Comparisons a lively blade of crisp, citrusy acidity. | 89 requited by savory nuance and the diminuendo and finally a rounded, entirely promising palate. deliver strawberries and cream, cut by a crisp, higher than for 2013, and yet both vintages are odious, but while Ayala, Charles Heidsieck, is more sinister than anything else. | 88 Watch this space. | 89 refreshingly dry acidity. | 91 in this blind tasting threw up a number of Deutz, Drappier, Gosset, Philipponnat, and AR | Coppery bronze in color, this shows a degree AR | Pale gold in color; quite evolved on the nose, excellent examples of their type. Suffice it to Thiénot put in strong performances, so did De Sousa Cuvée des Caudalies Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru of complexity in its aromas with a light nutty with some lees-aged nuttiness and biscuity notes, say that 2012 was generally more consistent many growers, in particular Leclerc Briant, 91 leesiness behind the berry-scented aromas, and while on the palate, there’s an appealing mousse Philipponnat 1522 Grand Cru among the blanc de blancs styles, where Larmandier-Bernier, Eric Rodez, Doyard, Le Mesnil Les Chetillons Extra Brut 2012 (12% ABV) 91 91 Extra Brut 2012 (12.5% ABV) there’s fine-textured, rich berry fruit on the palate, of fresh and fruity bubbles, nicely supported by generosity of ripe Chardonnay fruit combined De Sousa, Gimonnet, and, with its blanc de which is very well balanced and shows both fruit a tangy freshness of acidity on the finish; all in all, with fine natural acidity and lengthy lees aging blancs, Ulysse Colin. EA | Medium-deep lemon color. Soft, appley nose, EA | Deep lemon color. Evolving nose, with blown and complexity in a very well-judged, intensely a very appealing Champagne, with a degree of to produce many superb examples of the style. There were too few rosés to make any with pastry-shop nuances. Apple pie, ginger, wheat, hay, and meadow notes over an apple flavored pink Champagne that finishes on a complexity. | 90 Given that we tasted around 30 wines from kind of general statement, but all were high- and vanilla. Plush, rich, yet energetic palate. and toffee base. A slight lift to the nose. Really complex and tangy, dry note. | 92 each year, this was a first look, a snapshot quality, especially the Deutz and Roederer Remains slightly singular, with an edge of rusticity. powerful and vinous on the palate. A little heavy- of the two consecutive vintages at a point in from 2013, where, from a smaller sampling GH Mumm Brut 2013 Medium-long, juicy finish. | 89 handed overall, with a woody presence. | 88 90 time, rather than a definitive result. The most admittedly, my average marks were actually Doyard Blanc de Blancs Grand (12.5% ABV) SF | Attractive, yellow-straw color, and a nose SF | A golden hue, and an attractive nose, 90 youthful, more structured wines will after all slightly higher than those from the 2012 Cru Extra Brut 2012 (12% ABV) of macadamia, quince, and Braeburn apples; which marries red fruit, spice, and gentle oak; EA | Bright lemon color. Impressive, roasted benefit from further time. Apart from the fact vintage. I was a little disappointed to have the palate opens out indulgently; fig, lemongrass, plush and lifted, posset and meringue, red fruit EA | Bright lemon color. There is a vegetal and coffee-bean and pastry nose, with fudge and that the usual suspects [Dom Pérignon, Krug, given the equivalent of silver rather than gold and almond essence; agreeable if not profound, and a flinty linear subtext, which pays homage floral character to the nose, which has a touch of dough. The appley fruit is underneath. Big, plush Selosse, and Salon] could not submit their to Roederer Cristal Rosé, but on the plus inherent ripeness somewhat at odds with what to the great villages to the south of Epernay. oxidative evolution. Great intensity and freshness palate, with a round mouthfeel but an expansive wines, notable absentees included Bollinger, side, at least I can be counted on as a cheap appears to be a reasonably generous dosage, Nuanced and subtle. Today there is a resinous on the energetic palate. Finesse needed, but the mousse. Finishes a little short and austere. | 91 Bruno Paillard, Laurent-Perrier, Piper-Heidseick, date. Overall, there was a broad measure of despite its extra-brut qualifications. Appealing subtext; tomorrow it will probably sing more, structure is great. | 87 SF | Straw color; a touch wan and still too soon Ruinart, Taittinger, and La Grande Dame. agreement on many of the wines, but where over the medium term. | 89 fruit and autolytic development poised in an SF | Bright straw-gold; a gentle mousse; a nose after the pour; a nose of wild flowers, summer A good number of growers was represented differences occurred, it just goes to show how AR | Pale gold in color, the nose is subtly almost preternatural tension. | 91 of plum, fig, honeydew, and acacia; the palate is jasmine, and autumnal evenings, but too leafy (a voluminous five in the case of Ulysse Colin) subjective judging Champagne can be. restrained, showing a degree of biscuity AR | Pale golden-hued bubbles here, and a little stretched, stewed even, its profile rather in the final analysis, flint and smoke awkward complexity, a hint of prune, and clove spice, the fine, alluring, aromatic light toastiness too sweet, compromised therefore in the light rejoinders. The palate is easier, less clumsy, the but still elementally youthful; in the mouth, suggests Chardonnay, confirmed on the of the promise of the raw materials. | 86 smokiness ceding, however, to too much sugar, TOP WINES there’s an expansive, mouth-filling mousse that palate by a delightfully full-flavored toffee-apple AR | Mid-gold, with a persistent stream of a masquerade of squandered potential and carries a fine, toasty, rich complexity, and intense, Doyard Blanc de Blancs 2012 Grand Cru Larmandier-Bernier Les Chemins d’Avize richness, supported by a bright, chalky acidity bubbles, this is classic Chardonnay in aroma, artless protocol. | 86 ripe stone-fruit quality, all finely balanced and Extra Brut 97 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut 2013 94 and serious vinosity in almost white-Burgundy a light, almost chalky note to the gentle, toasty, AR | Mid-gold, with pleasant, sweet brioche tapering gradually towards a finishing line of mode, beautifully balanced with an elegant, lees-aged undertones, followed by a fine, richly and dried-fruits aromas, this is a well-balanced deeply satisfying, cleansing fresh fruit. | 95 Drappier Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut 2012 96 Leclerc Briant Blanc de Blancs Grand Blanc dry finish. | 95 flavored mousse whose filigree delicacy conveys fizz, showing an appealing mousse shot through Brut Zéro 2013 94 De Sousa Cuvée des Caudalies Blanc de Blancs its rich, toasty bubbles in a constant soda stream with stone-fruit flavors and light toast, and Pol Roger Brut 2013 Grand Cru Avize Les Pierres Vaudons Extra Brut Mailly Exception Blanche Grand Cru Ulysse Collin Les Roises Blanc of toasty, flavorsome bubbles, then tapers very underpinned by a nice linear blade of cleansing 91 (12.5% ABV) 2012 95 91 Blanc de Blancs Brut 2012 94 de Blancs Extra Brut NV [2012] 91 gradually in its length and weight to an elegantly acidity, bringing balance and freshness to a Gosset Grand Millésime Brut 2012 95 Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs Brut [2013] 94 (13% ABV) fine, dry finish. | 97 well-made fizz. | 92 EA | Bright lemony color. Inviting purely and brightly fruity nose. Ripe peach, lemon, and Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs Brut 2013 95 Marie-Courtin Eloquence Blanc de Blancs EA | Deep golden color. Really mature nose, with Leclerc Briant Extra Brut 2013 Mumm RSRV Blanc de Noirs Chardonnay Extra-Brut 2012 93 90 cotton-candy nose, with pastry complexity. De Sousa Cuvée des Caudalies Blanc de Blancs tertiary aromas ruling. Plenty of fruit still on the (12% ABV) Grand Cru Cuvée Réservée 90 Softly evolving but keeping very fruity. Rich, Grand Cru Le Mesnil Les Chetillons Extra Brut Mailly Grand Cru Brut L’Intemporelle 2012 93 bold nose, which jumps out at you. Big acidity 100% Pinot Noir du Village de 2012 95 textured palate, with a fine, creamy mousse. Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus Premier Cru on the winey, concentrated palate. Really wine EA | Deep-lemon color with golden hues. Verzenay Brut 2012 (12% ABV) Lots of attractive fruit on the fresh palate of Eric Rodez La Pierre aux Larrons Ambonnay Non Dosé Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature 2012 93 rather than champagne. Time to drink up. | 89 Stylishly age-complexed nose, with rich, creamy, refreshing vivacity. | 94 Grand Cru Brut Chardonnay 2013 95 SF | Lively, almost luminous gold; small, well- and sweet pastry notes. Rather autumnal in EA | Medium-lemon color. Pronounced and spicy SF | Straw color, a hint of tobacco leaf. A civilized Deutz Brut 2012 93 behaved bubbles join in briefly; the nose descants profile. The fruit is predominantly appley, with red-fruit nose, with some yeasty complexity. Ulysse Collin Les Roises Blanc de Blancs nose of orchard fruit, nectarine, and honeydew; sExtra Brut NV [2012] 95 Leclerc Briant Extra Brut 2013 93 fin-de-siècle indulgence, with intimations of a whiff of dust. A round palate, with fine acid line Firm and structured palate, which could carry a hint of cinnamon and soft spice, too; the palate excess... We shall see. The palate, for all that, and juiciness. Very dry finish. | 90 longer. A slightly foamy mousse. Shows some Palmer & Co Brut 2013 93 is broad and generous, dosage seemingly quite Philipponnat 1522 Grand Cru Extra Brut 2012 95 is less powerfully inhibitive, with the citric fruit SF | Flaxen, with a gentle mousse; pale at the maturing signs but not peaking yet. | 90 high, but a pleasing counterpoint of fruit and Drappier Millésime Exception Brut 2013 95 Thiénot Brut 2012 93 allowed more expression, albeit wrapped in rim. Orchard fruit, with rose water, plum, and the SF | Expressive, muscular, flamboyant fruit; only autolytic development. The grip of youth, tension an all-enveloping bed of lemon curd and quince; faintest whisper of white chocolate. The palate time will tell whether its finely sculpted and Palmer & Co Brut 2012 94 De Sousa Cuvée Umami Grand Cru on a bed of fruit and pashmina; more to come, Extra Brut 2012 93 a slightly pinched style. | 90 is broad, yet reassuringly taut, flinty, but with an far-from-dissonant allegro, virtuoso incarnate, assuredly. | 90 Louis Roederer Rosé 2013 94 AR | Deepish golden hue, more so than most, evocation of Alpine meadows and a hint of lanolin. will merit the entrance fee and prompt the value AR | Pale to mid-gold in color, this is lightly herbal suggesting perhaps an element of barrel- A neat and compact edifice, the sugar a little of the piece in its totality. | 88 on the nose and quite shy, with a pleasing mousse fermentation, confirmed on the nose, with a intrusive, but sure to settle down. | 88 AR | Pale lemon in color, this is bright, fresh, of bubbles that’s quite stone-fruit in flavour, and smoky, massively rich, sweet digestive biscuit and AR | Pale golden hue; classic aromas of light toast, and invitingly aromatic, showing an appealing, while subtle, there is some underlying complexity herb-infused palate, dry, yet brilliantly articulate, undernote. Crisp palate, with a zingy tartness buttery maturity; and this rich, golden-buttered with an appealing praliney nuttiness, the fine, effervescent delicacy of mousse and an intensity from lees aging, which may need further time to bilberry and fir-tree, crisp and fine-tuned; and racy vivacity to it. Fine, ripe, fruity profile, toast flavor carries through to the palate, which is persistent bead of bubbles providing a delicacy of apple and blackberry pie-like fruit that carries really show itself, as it’s perfectly well balanced, evocative and incredibly long in both the mouth and great, succulent length. | 92 relatively evolved and full of toasty maturity in an of texture and gently toasty flavor, underpinned through from medium-weight mid-palate, if not especially expressive now. | 90 and the memory. | 91 SF | Pale color, with a silvery tail; a rather almost traditional Meursault-with-bubbles style, by a linear streak of citrusy acidity, indicating to a satisfyingly dry finish. | 92 AR | Coppery bronze in color, fine, expressive recalcitrant mousse, chasing the center of underpinned by a lovely, natural, balancing acidity; a good 5+ years of aging potential. | 93 Louis Roederer Brut Nature absolutely gorgeous if you love that goût anglais Palmer & Co Brut 2013 91 aromatic quality, showing a degree of complexity the glass with apparent reluctance; a reduced 90 Rosé 2012 (12% ABV) along with attractively vivid berry-fruit aromas; nose; pierre à fusil and petrichor; so far, not so style, but it may not appeal to everybody. | 95 Mailly Grand Cru Extra Brut (12% ABV) 90 finely textured berry-fruit richness on the tongue, good; then, half-expected, an effusion of flavor, 2012 (12% ABV) EA | Peachy color. Soft, ripe, fruity nose, with Deutz Rosé Brut 2013 EA | Deep lemon-gold color. Soft, stylishly toasty tantalizingly gripping with its cranberryish acidity, expressionistic and precocious in its structural 90 sweet strawberry and peach fruit. A touch of making for a high-quality, saliva-inducing, naivety, yet promising much; melon, apples, (12% ABV) EA | Deep evolving color. Lots of evolution on nose with heaps of pristine fruit underneath. spicy complexity and undergrowth evolution. dry rosé. | 92 and poached pears, spice, and a creamy, softly the nose, highly tertiary. Earthy spiciness and Dried apricots, peach, vanilla, and yellow apple. Fresh, with accentuated acidity on the round, indulgent texture; the sugar and the fundamentally EA | Medium-deep salmon color. Expressive, brandy barrel but also heaps of appley fruit. Fruit-forward, but a little singular on the round generous palate. Long, suitably dry finish. taut structure dance a tender pas de deux, with, with sweet-berry fruit. Little toastiness, but there There is volume and vinosity on the concentrated and fleshy yet fresh palate. Long, juicy finish. | 91 The subtlest touch of oxidation dulls the fruit. Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs is a spicy edge to the fruit. Structured palate, palate. But austerity kicks in, making the dry SF | Mute citron color; a nose of Brie skin, soft 91 ultimately a satisfying denouement and the Bottles 1 and 2 both similar. | 90 2013 (12% ABV) prospect of further fireworks over the medium with a phenolic bite. The finish could be longer palate finish rather short. | 90 plum, and yellow flowers. The palate is rather SF | Expressive onion-skin color; an equally term. | 91 and juicier. | 89 SF | Straw, wheat color; medium-sized bubble, diffuse, surprisingly short, the initial pleasure expressive aromatic of bilberry, tobacco leaf, EA | Pale lemon color. Mild, refined nose, still AR | Pale lemon in color; a tad subdued, showing SF | Deeper color, soft russet, a hint of amber and somewhat sluggish; an appealing nose, dominated of exotic and citric fruit mitigated promptly by and a hint of thyme; rich, resinous, elegant, youthful. Floral and lemony, with a chalky some herbal undertones and stone fruit on magenta; the nose betrays sous-bois and hearth- by yellow flowers, citric fruit, and a lick of linseed an overly prominent dosage and a lack of integrity

on the finish. Workmanlike, for all that. | 87 a little clumsy in their interface with the sugar, Eric Rodez Les Genettes Ulysse Collin Les Enfers Blanc to the fore, then hints of sherbet and spiced pear. Textured palate, with a cushiony mousse. SAVOR: 2012 AND 2013 CHAMPAGNE AR | Mid-gold, this is attractively fresh and a faint evocation of tobacco leaf somewhat Ambonnay Grand Cru Brut Pinot 89 de Blancs Extra Brut NV [2013] 89 The pleasure is all in the attack; thereafter the Very dry palate, amplifying the tartness and aromatic, with light biscuit and peach notes troubling at the end. Satie mournful; distant Noir 2013 (12.5% ABV) (12.5% ABV) message is a little less effusive; slightly pinched, taking away slightly from the charm. | 89 in the aromas, followed on the tongue with a voices, still lives. | 87 more reticent than anticipated. A declamation SF | Pale, adorned by dawn pewter and a playful, well-judged, full-flavored mousse full of peachy AR | Very pale in color, almost wan; this shows EA | Deep golden color with an onion-skin tinge. EA | A deep golden color, with amber hues. that lacks for a clear peroration will leave a hollow somewhat dissolute mousse; the nose is a little flavors underpinned by light toasty notes and sweet cashew-nut notes in its aromas, while Evolved, appley nose, with spicy baked apples, An evolved nose, with charred toasty notes message. | 87 mute, unformed maybe, and shy; apéritif appeal juicy, balancing acidity—all understated but on the palate it’s well balanced, with a juicy, orange marmalade, and vanilla notes. Some lingering over pristine apple fruit. Age-complexed AR | Mid-gold in color; quite evolved on the nose, for sure. Innocuous; only windfall apples and ultimately well proportioned. | 93 stone-fruit ripeness supported by a degree of oxidative evolution. A big, bold palate that finishes already but not oxidative. Delicious fruity appeal. almost white Burgundy-like, with an underlying, a hint of dried apricot. The palate is equally complexing leesy underpinning, and tapering short, with a little rusticity to it. | 86 The palate does not quite deliver the great sweet, lead-pencil note and leesy nuttiness, unassuming, somewhat amorphous and verging De Sousa Cuvée Umami to a pleasing, fruity, yet dry finish. | 90 SF | Pallor and bubbles which escape rapidly to expectations given by the nose. It is left a possibly a touch of oak; attractive mid-palate on the inarticulate. | 86 Grand Cru Extra Brut 2012 90 the side of the glass; linseed oaky nose, a touch little hollow and dry, with accentuated acidity. weight and texture, showing a degree of buttery AR | Pale-gold in color, a tad shy on the nose, (12.5% ABV) Drappier Millésime Exception of coconut and scented almond; the palate is Long, vinous finish. | 93 or brazil-nut evolution, but happily still finishing with light biscuity autolysis starting to show; 89 Brut 2013 (12% ABV) expressive and indulgent, far from dissenting from SF | Deeper color, unpolished bronze, matted refreshingly dry. | 91 an attractively textured mousse, stone-fruit EA | Deep golden color. Age-mellowed nose, the vagaries brought before it. Made to a style and a little miasmic. A plump nose, oxidized avant flavors, and a pleasingly crisp, lemony finish, with Burgundian tones to it. Yeasty complexity EA | Developed color. Oxidative characters that appeals, with reason, to those who favor la lettre and an equally Hogarthian denouement, Pierre Gimonnet & Fils 1er Cru nicely dry. | 90 and nutty evolution, with spicy, appley fruit. dominate the nose, with brown-apple and oak as the imprimatur of choice; others may feel painted ladies running amok, overly made-up, Blanc de Blancs Sélection Belles 88 A vinous, powerful palate, taking its space. cider notes. Singular. Austere on the big, fleshy that there is too much grip and constraint and, wintery in outlook. | 84 Années Brut 2013 (12.5% ABV) Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Bold and winey, with great intensity but some palate. | 83 inevitably, less by way of honest pleasure. | 88 AR | Mid-gold in color, showing a degree of Brut 2013 (12.5% ABV) 88 austerity. Showing maturity but currently drinking SF | Golden tint and a mousse that is both AR | Pale in color with light coppery tones, this evolution, with a buttery aromatic note on the EA | Deep lemon. There are some dusty notes very well. | 90 ludic and persistent; a nose of caramelized announces itself immediately with fine berry and nose also showing some evolution; a pleasantly to the toffee, dried-apricot, and apple nose. EA | Bright lemon color. Appealing, soft nose, SF | A bold, indulgent wine; color of Spanish gold, salted lemon, praline, and sourdough; plum toasty notes on the nose, following through to a soft peachy middle, with ultra-soft bubbles lifted A touch oxidative. The structured but smooth with an attractive white-fruit profile. There aromatics of quince and caramel, then a fulsome and patisserie behind that. Most appealing! richly flavored mousse of strawberryish bubbles, by a linear streak of lemony acidity, so almost palate has vinosity to it. The finish is austere, are floral touches to the nuanced aromatics. and expressive palate; orchard fruit; lemon and Sour honey, bitter lemon (verbena maybe), whose counterpoint of fresh, cranberry-like acidity a Champagne of two halves, both evolved and with a phenolic bite. | 84 Orange blossom, apricot pie, and fruit drops. almost a hint of quinine; grip and a salty texture; and poached pear on the palate, the dosage cuts through the richness of fruit to bring not just supple on the one hand, but kept fresh by its SF | Sandy color; attractive nose of preserved Finely intense fruit on the zingy palate of preserved lemons and verbena; ultimately, maybe a little high, thereby undermining the balance but the potential for aging for a good five lemony finish on the other. | 89 salted lemon, crystalline, soft dried fruit, energizing nervosity. Long and appropriately perhaps a touch disappointing, the saltiness high praise hitherto lavished. | 89 to 10 years. | 93 gently caramelized; tarte tatin and Apfelstrudel; juicy on the finish. | 93 translating into too much acidity and the story AR | Pale to mid-gold in color, this is expressively Ulysse Collin Les Pierrières Chardonnay writ large with ripe mango and SF | Clumsy nose; seemingly reduced and leafy ending on a slightly bitter note. | 86 complex in its aromatic profile, showing ripe plum, Louis Roederer Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV 89 pineapple, plum and fig; an apparently generous at the same time; mothballs and verbena. AR | Mid-gold in color; attractively aromatic, light biscuit, and sweet praliney notes, followed 2012 (12% ABV) 89 [2013] (12.5% ABV) dosage, and a capacity for early gratification Nothing is what it seems, as Alice says, and with an immediate freshness and gentle, biscuity by a richly flavored, finely textured mousse, that defies the need for contemplation or nothing seems to come of nothing, as Lear allure, while on the palate the fruit is rich and whose bubbles carry those flavors and the toast EA | Medium-deep lemon color. Soft, deeply fruity EA | Deep golden color. Refined yet pronounced any imperative potentially to keep this for believed. The palate is oddly dilute, a touch full-flavored, a gentle stream of bubbles coating complexity of lees aging from tongue to grateful nose, with fragrant flowers and sugar-coated nose, showing positive development. Soft, the longer term. | 88 foursquare, and certainly bereft of the tension the tongue with stone fruit, nut, vanilla, and light throat on a convincing and satisfying fizz that fruit. Rich but linear on the palate, which has a fruit-forward, spicy characters. Charred, toasty, AR | Pale greeny-yellow in color, this shows of aspiration. | 84 toasty undertones; lots of flavor here, in a well- tapers to a fine, dry finish. | 95 chalky, mineral bite to it. Fruit-packed and sweet in and woody notes are amplified on the rich but notes of sweet praline, farm butter, and cashew AR | Mid-gold in color; there’s a touch of brioche balanced fizz that seems to have a good decade aromatics, even if the palate finishes very dry and fresh and balanced palate. Lovely transparency nut on the nose, while on the palate, it has a and peachy sweetness to the aromas, which are of life ahead of it. | 93 palate-cleansing. | 90 of fruitiness and plenty of expression. Long, juicy, lovely, buttery, Chardonnay character à la white on the shy side at this stage, while the peachy J Lassalle Special Club Premier 89 Cru Brut 2012 (12.5% ABV) SF | Pewter going on gold; a certain indecipherable vinous finish. At a lovely drinking age. | 93 Burgundy, with an accessibly soft mousse of mousse is underpinned by an agreeable freshness Thiénot Brut 2012 translucence; nose of plums, figs, and even toffee SF | Buckwheat color; a Gainsborough landscape, bubbles underscored by a fine blade of balancing of acidity, helping this fizz across the line in terms (12.5% ABV) 90 EA | Lemon-gold color. Subtle, utterly sophisticated apple, the indulgence of the blend, the phenols vanishingly small bubbles, refining themselves fresh acidity for a good, dry finish. | 92 of balance and dry finish. | 88 nose, with a toast-laden and soft, fruity profile. pronounced yet seemingly pure; square-jawed and out of existence; and for all the bucolic grandeur EA | Pale lemon. A slight lift to the expressive, Pastry-shop, burned-sugar, and vanilla complexity. assertive, only the ripeness here slightly billows of such a prospect, the reality is less panoramic, AR Lenoble Bisseuil Premier Cru Ulysse Collin Les Maillons Blanc toffee-laden nose. Soft and a little plump on Really promising. Lovely intensity on the through the carapace. | 88 more pinched; Gala apples, mirabelle plum, even Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut 2013 88 de Noirs Extra Brut NV [2013] 88 the palate, which is a little chunky, with a sweet voluptuous yet fresh palate. Beautifully textured AR | Pale gold in color, this is just a tad subdued on a whiff of sulfur, and a strangely workmanlike (12.5% ABV) (12.5% ABV) finish. | 90 and creamy. Very charming style. Shows aging the nose, with just a hint of maltiness, and while palate, which manages to be both pinched and SF | Straw gold and lemongrass; a delicate mousse evolution but has lots of life ahead of it. | 94 there’s a good expansive mousse of bubbles, the flabby; more Rawlinson than Gainsborough, as EA | Deep, peach-hued color. Odd, pungently EA | Evolving color, with peachy hues. A rather it would seem, but the palate has more power, SF | Raw and slightly tired, oak impulsion driving flavors are still on the subdued side; but there’s fair it turns out. | 85 appley nose, with a lift to it. Comes across as subdued, soft nose, with floral fruit expression. direction, and length. Lively, but for all that, it it into mediocrity. | 82 texture and a lean streak of acidity for a pleasant, AR | Pale-gold in color; now starting to show singular and oxidative. The palate is tight and dry. Wax, honey, and red apple. Woody tones are seems a touch raw, paradoxically lactic, too; AR | Lemony in color, this shows pleasingly fresh, dry finish. | 88 some evolved, nutty/leesy notes in the aromas, Serious style, but it comes with a certain austerity. stronger on the firm and quite structured palate. younger fruit maybe, well handled for sure... appley aromas, and a pleasantly constructed with a hint of peachy fruit, this is quite soft on Seems mature already. | 85 A long, vinous finish, which comes with juiciness Give it time. | 87 mousse of fine bubbles bisected by good, Louis Roederer Brut 2013 the palate, showing a nice ripe peachiness SF | An attractive straw-gold, flaxen and finely to it. | 89 89 AR | Pale gold; vivacious and fresh in aroma, trenchant, fresh acidity in Cox’s apple vein, (12% ABV) combining with a gentle nuttiness, all supported drawn; a soft, gentle mousse and attractive SF | Plangent full color, which is faintly autumnal, with notes of stone fruit and apple, this is a finishing nicely dry. | 90 by a slightly sharp blade of acidity, for a distinctly aromatic of Pink Lady apples, gingerbread, and tumbleweed and soft amber. The nose is quite finely textured blend with a lively ripe juiciness EA | Lemon color with a touch of peachy evolution. dry finish, which is most likely the product of grapefruit, behind that Brie skin and sherbet. reductive, a little chamomile and salted cashew and purity of fruit, quite vinous in its texture, Pol Roger Rosé Brut 2012 Pronounced, spicy, evolving nose, with woody the vintage. | 89 The palate has a Palladian construct, balance in eventually revealing themselves. This is firm and 89 with a fine, incisive blade of acidity to support (12.5% ABV) complexity. The fruit comes across more strongly all things, stone-fruit and bready elements equally resolute on the palate, the dosage well handled, the fruit quality, bringing balance and the on the palate, which is verging on winey. Silky Ulysse Collin Les Roises Blanc expressive, soft spice and a carefully administered the red fruits ceding to umami and baking spice; potential for aging for five to seven years. | 93 EA | Deep cherry-toned color. Smoky layers over smooth, and it certainly has enough freshness. de Blancs Extra Brut NV [2013] 89 dosage underwrite a serious intent, sui generis a touch aldehydic at the end, the purity of the rich, sweet Pinot fruit. Straightforward fruity style, Showing mature already, but there is no hurry. | 90 (12.5% ABV) for sure and crafted with care and a sense of message ultimately compromised. Tarte tatin Deutz Brut 2013 with cherry confiture and strawberry. Needs SF | Matted straw; a playful mousse, soon measurement. | 89 and bacon rind, then a rather raw, uninspiring 89 (12% ABV) finesse and complexity. Structured, with some dissipated; a nose of preserved lemon, concrete, EA | Deep color with orange hues. Expressive, AR | Mid-golden hued, this is a tad shy on the finish. | 86 phenolics. | 87 and wild flowers; the mousse quickly timid; with spicy and woody notes on the toasty nose nose, although there is some evident light leesy AR | Mid-gold in color. There’s a faint hint EA | Medium-deep lemon color. There is lovely, SF | Extravagant magenta, soft-peach color and phenolic and citric grip on the palate, pleasure of ripe, appley fruit. The smoky tones almost take development, and even a hint of berry fruit, while of caramel on the nose, which is otherwise glossy, but complex fruit to the soft, seductive a nose of fireworks, wild strawberry, and verbena; deferred by the high natural acidity; aldehydes over from the fruit. There is a yeasty floral twist on the palate, the berry-fruit character comes to somewhat subdued at this stage, while on the nose. Orange blossom, peach, orange peel, come-hither palate, with wild strawberries, citron, prompt the question as to whether this deferral to the nose. Really mature aromatics but healthy. the fore in a very agreeably textured ripe middle, palate, bubbles immediately attack the tongue and mirabelle plums. Less charming on the and blueberry; all pleasingly integrated, pleasingly will actually be permanent. | 88 Full, rich, flavorful palate, with fine acidity bringing supported by good balancing acidity. | 90 with a certain energy and that caramel note, strict palate, which comes across as a little resonant, and with great potential. | 90 AR | Mid-golden hue, a tad subdued on the nose; lightness and vivacity. Long finish, ending on a dry, before turning into a lemon sherbet-like finish, edgy and austere. Good freshness and energy, AR | A light cherryish color; a fine raspberryish initially the bubbles are quite aggressive as they bitter note. | 90 Mailly Grand Cru Nature Brut scrunching the tongue with a rather pointed though. | 89 aroma supported by complexing lees-aged notes, strike the tongue, while a herbal undertow brings SF | A hint of reduction; flinty and leafy; incense Nature 2013 (12% ABV) 88 crispness of acidity. | 89 SF | Straw-green; a recalcitrant mousse, which this is delicately fruity on the palate, with a lively a tartish green-apple bite to the mousse, which, and stone fruit; playful bubbles, persistent if not decides not to linger; a pleasant nose of cashew, raspberryish quality and an underlying complexity, initially expansively foaming, subsides toward especially small. Nose of plum, lemon, and a hint EA | Deep, evolving color. Sophisticatedly mild All three tasters agreed that following wine bracken, guava, and baking spice; the palate is all finely textured and extremely well rendered in a a dry finish that’s pleasantly well balanced and of rhubarb; intriguing. The palate summons a nose, with ripe apple and pear fruit. Pastry was affected by TCA: AR Lenoble Gentilhomme oddly chalky, wet pavements and autumn apples convincing, dry rosé Champagne. | 91 fresh, if not particularly expressive. | 88 swell of joyful enthusiasm, citric fruit and brioche and vanilla tones and soft, yeasty elements. Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut 2013

182 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 70 | 2020 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 70 | 2020 | 183