WILLARD PARKER By JOHN RUHRÄH, M.D. BALTIMORE, MD.

Part III. Conclusion* 30. Sunday. This makes another day Parades are now held, here Louis I have spent of the Lord in this 16th held the great fete in 1790, city. No one can conceive of the here Napoleon held his Review habits & peculiarities of the previous to the Battle of Water­ French People. They are eco­ loo. It is a Parallelogram—4 nomical, never drunk and not rows of Trees on East & West quarrelsome but for the light and side. North is the Ecole Mili- gay amusements they cannot be taire, the Field is for Mil’y. surpassed and probably are not Here this day were horse races, equalled. This morning visited several Thousand people were the La Charite. On my return assembled. Everything arranged from that I visited a Church, in ample order. Many of the induced to do it from seeing a Nobility were present, their car­ coffin carried to it. Strange what riages in Royal equipage. Saw 3 ideas these people have. Races, the 2d was foil’d, the 1. The coffin is covered by a Horse fell, threw the Rider & black pall, lights burning upon injured him some. From this cofin & a cross with Christ. The place we crossed the River by the cofin was exposed at the Door of Bridge of Iena, ascended a mound the House. Every one that passes & had a magnificent view of the the dead must raise his hat as he City. We visited the Triumphal passes. “The Drivers” are men Arch of Napoleon 150 ft. high, of Function with a chapeau bras marble, much good sculpturing & trimmings. After this cofin was upon it (vid. Galignani). From carried to the church. It was this spot we came through the exorcised then was brought in Champs Elysees & of all the another of young woman un­ sights for Sunday. Hosts of married, hence white pall & a people. Theatrical exhibitions of chaplet of white roses upon it. all kinds mostly however low. We came home. Breakfasted Flying horses ships, Wheel swings, (cafe au Iait) we then, Friend St. shooting Billiards, all kinds of John & myself, concluded we games. Booths &c. &c. Music & would go out that we might see a girl say 20 in Peasant’s dress these people on Sunday. We upon the back of Jill. Astride. passed to the Bank of the Seine She had a basket in her hand and and passed down the River by was holding forth to the multi­ the Palais du Roi Romain, the tudes! Every other man is a Chamber of Deputies. Palais de soldier or an officer and in this Bourbon, Hotel des Invalids & way is order kept. I am inclined the Champ de Mars. This is a to believe that the Roman Cath­ grand open field where military olic Religion is no Religion. It is * Parts i and n appeared in the May and July issues of the Annals of Medical History, n.s. 5: 205; 376, 1933. a mere shew. This night there is 9. Trials at lifting by scale. a famous Ball at wh. the Royal 10. Jugglers, players, masquer­ Family are to be present. aders. May i. Monday. This is a very great day 11. Animals & Albinos. in France especially in Paris— 12. Booths with all kinds of the King’s Fete. At 12 the articles. King received company. It has 13. Shooting, coits, cooking, been beautemps and all Paris sailing & rotary swinging. is out. I never saw such an 14. 2 theatres by the king immense crowd as in the Tuiler­ situated opposite each ies, Place de Concorde—Champs other. Elysees. After passing round the 4 musical saloons opposite & at palace of the King & seeing the the side & in the center a smooth multitude assemble I then saun­ mast 60 feet well greased over & tered through the Garden, it is at its top is placed a gold & silver splendid, the 4 fountains in full watch, silver spoons, cups, pipes play. Men, women & children and it is called Mat de Cocagne seem let loose to play. The men Est’d. in 1425. This pole is make fools of themselves by let­ climbed & the one who first ting their hair and beards grow. reaches the top takes the first The women are without any prize. In the evening these groves qualifications, the ugliest I have were beautifully illuminated & ever seen in my travels. They there was dancing—at y past 7 seem to be in their element this there was a serenade in front of day—women just ready to pre­ the palace. Louis Philipe came sent somebody with a living out upon the piazza 1—alone, present are at every step—I was 2d—with the Queen, 3d—with surprised! I began my walk the Dukes, his reception by the through the Champs Elysees—a crowd was cold, at y 8 the feu silent lonesome looker on in d’artifice were begun & their Venice. I in the midst of thou­ splendour surpassed conception. sands was yet alone, knew no­ The crowd was beyond calcu­ body & nobody knew me. All lation. It was presumed that from kinds of games they have and 5 to 6 hundred thousand people more means to get money, than were out—the evening was pleas­ all the Yankees that ever was or ant. Thus ended this sight-seeing ever can be will be able to devise. day. How the French love money! 2d. Tuesday. This is the Birth day 1. Cake, Nut Tables. of my Darling Daughter, Kate, 2. Portable drink sitters— 5 of her sunny years have flown. Singular! If the will of God, may she live 3. A wise dog & master with­ to see many and be distinguished out legs, with a great for her goodness & usefulness. crowd to hear the Dog talk. Oh thou knowest the prayer of 4. Tumblers. thy humble servant—hear it in 5. Un Batonnier—or stick behalf of his dearly beloved Jam- player. ily. Who can be more blessed 6. Man, woman & 3 children than I, who have a partner, a tumbling. wife dearer than life & two good 7. Puppets. affectionate (excuse parental par­ 8. Electrical machine. tiality) and intelegent little Daughters. This day I have through the Rue Rivoli—Royale been engaged in matters of the and to the Church of Magdalene. Profession. It is a task to acquire This is the most magnificent the French. building, I have seen in the old This forenoon I visited Sant. world, its situation is pleasant Sulpice, Magnificent Church. at the end of the Boulevards. It Some paintings of value but was begun in 1764, it suffered modern. The Madonna sculp­ in its progress from various tured & standing in the choir changes. In 1808 Napoleon pro­ in singular view. posed to make it a Temple of 3d. Wednesday. Hospital this morn­ Glory, in true Roman style. It ing and during the day have been is Peripteral, has 58 magnificent rather inactive. Bot Madame Corinthian columns. Steps at Stork’s work for Italy. each end. It will be completed 4. Thursday. This morning visited in about 2 years. Called at Wells the Hospital. After my cafe au & Co. No news yet from Amer­ Iait I visited the Galery of the ica. At the Hotel de viola saw Chamber of Peers. I was very some friends who informed us much pleased with many of the that the United States had be­ paintings, they are modern. Some come Bankrupt. good specimens of statuary. 6. Saturday, this morning saw Civi- From the Galery we went to the ale operate in his way for stone. Ch. of St. Sulpice—it is a massive Breakfasted. Clark called on his building—cross formed like all way to poor Sawyer’s Funeral. the churches. Was begun about He has fallen a prey to his own 200 years ago but not completed ambition. Consumption has car­ until 100 yrs. ago—it is a mixture ried to his long home. To die in of orders—Doric—Ionic & the one’s native land in the arms of Chapel of the Virgin is Corin­ his friends is a comfort indeed. thian. East & west 432 ft. the Visited the Jardin des plantes. transept is 174, the hight of the This is a grand establishment North tower 230 ft. upon each devoted to the Sciences. Went tower is a telegraph and the through the Collection of the residence of a person who tends great Cuvier, it is magnificent. it. In this tower are 5 Bells—4 There are 15 Salles or Rooms. In weigh 12500 & when one was the first are the Cete the Balaines rung the whole tower was shaken. —the Skeleton well put up—the From this town we had a mag­ Cachalot. Dauphins. nificent view of Paris & its 2d. Human varieties. *** environs. The Telegraphs are one 3d. Boeuffs. *** with Italy, sth. Strasburg north. 4th. Oisseaux. *** The Chapel of the Virgin is On my way from this garden I peculiar and striking. Paintings, visited the Pantheon. Certainly 2 struck me as favorable, that a magnificent building, designed of Louis xiii & St. Vincent as the Repose of the Great of praying the Sisters of Charity France and no man is to be to establish a foundling asylum. placed here until he has been 5. Friday. This morning visited the dead 10 years. The vault is very Hospital as usual, & saw Ricord’s extensive & in it are Voltaire, Patients. Then after breakfast Jean Jacq Rousseau, the archi­ visited the Tuileries. Passed tect of the building & many who fell in the defence of their coun­ 11. Rose early. Went to the Hotel try in July 1830, the trois jours. Dieu. 11 Breakfasted. 12 went There are two Rows of Corin­ to the Clarmarte. at 2 to Pitie. thian Pillars in front, west, & its Dined at 6. French Lesson at Lantern is the highest in the city. y2 past 7. In the interior it has magnificent 12. Friday. This day have been columns. deeply engaged in medical mat­ 7. Sunday. This day I attended the ters—Hospital, Lectures. Began Hospital and was out a short at La Pitie upon the stethescope. time but spent most of my time I learnt this mng. that the Poland in my Room writing to my home, had arrived at Havre & I was dear home! The day is cold and delighted at the idea of some unpleasant. news from Home. But nonel! 8. Monday. Hotel Dieu, St. Louis. What does it mean? Something What a hoard of miserable crea­ is wrong, I am confident. My tures appear at the Consultation Dear Wife must have written. Room, the want of cleanliness is No news is called “good news,” the cause. At one visited the hope it is so in this case. One Mazarine Library, mostly old letter only & that dated only Books, rich & valuable. In this 10 days after I left home. Library is an immense Globe, at 13. Saturday. Have been the rounds. least 10 feet in Diameter. Fine I never worked more hard when specimens of ancient books. At 2 I was a Student in Medicine. Dr. attended the Royal Academy of Partridge, an old fellow student Sciences, this is one of the of mine is here—I was glad to Branches of the Royal Institute see him. Mr. St. John has of which there are 5, viz Sciences. received a letter from his Brother. 2 Arts. 3. 4. 5. More than 250 failures in New This branch contains 63 mem­ York. What a sad time! It will bers, vacancies made by death. do good in the end. This Evening This academy is subdivided into had a letter from I. Brown, Esq. Branches as for astronomy, which was almost hearing from mathematics, Medicine, Geog­ home. I expect my Dear Wife raphy &c. Cuvier was a member. is Fatherless. Such are the transi­ La Place &c. Dined at about tions of this life. We slide off. 5 as usual. Read French in the 14. Sunday. This mng. visited the evening. Hospital then returned, break­ 9. Tuesday. La Pitie in the mng. fasted & went to Herman Le Roy at 12. Obtained 3000 Thorn’s to attend his church— francs of Wells. Attended the his Preacher was sick. 1 then Royal Academy of Medicine. returned to my Room & spent Discussion upon the numerical most of the day excepting a short system. Bouillaud & Double. time in the Galery of the Subject continued. Luxenburg. 10. Wednesday. This day have been 15. Monday—Attended St. Louis— devoted to medicine. I am quite Breakfasted on the Boulevards. wrell in this cold country. Began At 12 went to the Clamart, at upon a course of operative sur­ gery with Maisonneuve* today. at the Hotel Dieu noted for his versatility * Jacquer-Gilles Maisonneuve (1809-1897) especially in surgery of the bones, intestines of Nantes, a pupil of Dupuytren, a surgeon and gynecology. 2 La Pitie & then at 4 Returned in April were rainy. Every day to my Room. Saturday I heard in May thus far. Dumenil* lecture on Medical 17. Wednesday. This mng. visited

Pathology, he is very dull & had the Hospital. 11—the College of only 50 bearers. Heard Albert France (Magendie) 12 went to also, he is a very much better the Clamart—2^2 to attend my lecturer. He is in his dotage. He Lectures upon auscultation— was upon Therapeutics. He is then to Sichels. At past 5 very popular with the Students— dined, at 7 accompanied Dr. on the 17—he commences a Adams over to the Boulevards clinique at St. Louis. he leaves tomorrow for America. 16. Tuesday. This day have been Poor fellow—how desponding I in attendance upon Hospitals— all the world is dark to him. called upon Griswold & Adams What is worse—what more unre­ and also upon Cutter. Every one lenting than Dispepsia? It is a is full of sadness because of the disease in which we get but little calamity in America. This is the commiseration and yet there is first day we have had here that scarcely any disease where I feel has had an air of comfort— disposed to extend more. The Cold “& damp” have been con­ Blessing of health is incalculable. stant companions here. 29 days May my dear ones be in the * Charles Marie Dumenil (1798-1851) delightful possession of it. It is aspired to be a rival of Dupuytren and was one of heaven’s choicest gifts bitterly persecuted by him. and there is no one which we more abuse—Dr. Smith I also land. Many more failures— saw—who is about to return to among whom is General Jack- America. This day has been son—good!! “Perish commerce delightful and this evening all perish credit!” What is to become Paris is out. The Boulevards and of my country? the Rue Vivienne are truely 22. Monday—I have been engaged splendid—the shops magnifi­ at the Hospitals during the day. cently lighted and through the This evening I have taken my immense panes of Glass Articles French Lesson. Heard today of are seen in the grandest display. the arrival of another packet. I This day I visited the Jardin of hope for Letters. Plantes again—I only wish my 23. Tuesday. In the mng. visited La Dear Caroline & my two little Charite! Saw Mr. Velpeau & ones could be here to enjoy the Bouillaud—procured some Books ramble in them. Saw the famous for the College—got no letter Cedar of Lebanon planted by from home. What can it all the Great Botanist Jussien, mean? Oh that I could hear from planted in 1735—It is a magnif­ my Dearest ones upon the other icent tree in full vigor—while side of the great Atlantic—What the author of its celebrity long a cold & wet country—certainly since paid the great debt of I never saw a worse climate for nature. Its branches at the top invalids—Rained every day since are horizontally spread out. the month came in. Called on 18. Thursday—Have been engaged Prof. Stanley. today in medical matters. Spent 24. Wednesday—This mng. did not an hour in the Jardin des Plantes. feel quite as well as usual, took What a delightful place for a some little cold last night—rose naturalist! early, attended the Hotel Dieu 19. Friday—Have been devoted to saw Roux & Brechet—In Brech- medicine today—have seen Ma­ et’s ward saw a little child that gendie kill another Dog. reminded me of my Darling 20. Saturday. This day I have been Ellen—notwithstanding the im­ much engaged in purchasing books mense amount of matter to for the College. interest me here I shall be happy 21. Sunday. Who ever saw such very when I set my face homeward. unpleasant weather. Cold & rainy. Had my umbrella stolen today. Went to church today but did Better be the loser than the thief. not succeed in finding it. then I 25. Thursday-—have visited the went to the Arc of Triumph of court part of the city today— Napoleon, it is a magnificent Called upon Cutter and also work, a few rods without the upon Drs. Richards & Cromwell walls of Paris. It was begun in to make arrangements for the 1806 & completed under Louis shipping of articles. Called upon P—152 ft. high—long 132—wide Wells & Co. hoping I might find 68— in 1811 a model was placed some letter—but none—none— here & Nap. & Maria Louisa On my way I purchased a pair entered under it in great display. of sabots for Kate & Ellen. May A great view of the City is had they be blessed! I think more & from its summit. Met my old old more of my Dear Caroline & shipmate Broxton, he had just Daughters daily—I pray they be had news from Amer, by Eng­ well. The weather begins to be a little more pleasant and the 14 in 1662 devoted to Tapestry Parisians are coming out in all & carpets. The Tapestry sur­ their gaiety—they are full of passes all conception—the shew—This evening attended masterly touches of the Pencil my French lesson—All are now of a Rubens are displayed in alive about the marriage of the these pieces of Tapestry—A copy Duke of Orleans & Princess Ellen of Louis Phillipe is now under­ of Mecklenburg—Fetes are in way. Henry the 4—Louis the 14, preparation. Mary of Medici are exhibited 26. Friday. This mng. rose early— with as much fullness as the best attended Hospital—saw Louis & painting could have done it. Sanson—Louis is expected to go A piece is many years in com­ to the Hotel Dieu. Breakfasted— pleting—the carpets are 12 paces went to the court side of the wide—as I counted The ex­ River—passed through the Palais pence of these productions is so Royal—saw the French full of great that they are allowed to the life & gaiety. Hundreds taking Royal family only— their coffee under the Trees. 28. Sunday—This morning began a Visited the Royal Library-—it is letter to my dear home—at 10 I magnificent, the largest in the took the Diligence for Sevres, World. At 2 attend my lecture visited the Porcelaine Manu­ upon auscultation. The walk was factory. It is about 5 miles out of warm. Returned to my Room— Paris. The day was fine and the dined at 6—at M past 7 started country seemed very beautiful. for the Musard Concert in Rue Sevres is a pleasant little place— Vivienne. The Hall is large— known principally for its Porce­ capable of containing 3000 Per­ laine. The Porcelaine like the sons and 200 musicians. The Tapestry surpasses all ideas. room is brilliantly lighted—walls Upon the porcelaine are some of richly painted. The Hall is the the finest landscapes—represen­ W2 of a circle. The House was tation of shells, of fruit, of birds very full—90 instruments com­ &c. I even saw the portraits of pose the concert Musard—the the Kings & Queens and other Composer conducts the whole— personages were represented— they meet every evening. Franc one of Psyche & Cupid—Psyche for admission. We got home at was true to nature. Vases were 11. The music was not to be there which were marked at surpassed, said St. John—If only 37,000 Fr. equal to 7,400 dollars my better half had been there —after viewing the exquisite to have enjoyed it—My mind workmanship of this place we rambled to days of yore when I then passed through the park— went to the Handel & Hayden. saw the grotteaux, the great 27. Saturday—This mng. was so cascade, all of which is a part of much fatig’d. did not visit the that magnificent palace which Hospital—Wrote—at 12 went to (Louis) 14 gave to his Brother Le Roy d’EtioIIes’s lecture—from Duke of Orleans—there Napo­ thence to the Clamart—From leon was made head of Gov’t. 18 there to the Gobelins—to Sal- Brumaire 1799. Here was Charles petriere & the Jardin des Plantes X when the Rev’n. of 1830 broke —The Gobelins are a Royal out. From St. Cloud we come to- establishment, made so by Louis Auteuil a little place where many people resort for health. Vid. transient ship has arrived at “Outre Mer”!! We passed Havre & reports worse times through the Bois de Boulogne. than ever in Amerique.

Beautiful—was much fatigued 31. Wednesday—The days of an­ when I reached home. other spring have flown passed 29. Monday- St. Louis—Clamart and mingle with the ocean of Auscultation—called upon Rich­ time of bygone days—and where ards & Cromwell—upon Isaac am I? yet upon the shore of Appleton Jewett—and returned terrestrial existence while many his call. —very many—have been called 30. Tuesday—Today wrote a letter. hence to that bourne from which Went to the Clamart at 12—at 4 no traveller returns—What a returned to my room, dressed memorable three mos. I have and went to the Palais Royal to crossed the mighty ocean & God dine with Jewett—had an excel­ has sustained me. I have lent time with him. It seemed like wandered in strange lands—sur­ having an American Society to rounded by strangers and yet I talk over old matters. We talked have been preserved. Thanks to of Cincinnati—of the French that almighty power which has dissipation in drinking—of their ever sustained me. I have turned government—of their improve­ my back to my native country & ment in Railroads—of education to all that my soul most highly —of their views of Domestic appreciated upon earth—my life—of their want of virtue &c Dear Wife—children—Parents— &c—of their Religion also—A Mother & sisters. May we be preserved & again meet on Earth. of Orleans & the Duchess—Louis This day I have been much Philippe and the rest of the Royal engaged in medicine—Books & Family with the King and Queen Chemical orders. I hope now of Belgium—The concourse of every day to get a letter from people and soldiers was very home. great but did not compare with June 1. Thursday. At length summer that of Maria Louise in 1812—I has arrived in propria persona. cannot say that I-’entertain the The weather is delightful and shadow of envy toward him. I the rains are over. Today have prefer my condition—humble as been very much engaged in it is and believe it replete with as medical matters as usual. much or more happiness. “No June 2. Friday. Today have been en­ one would change his neighbor gaged as usual—this evening with himself.’’ How greedy are have been at the French Theater these French to see everything in this is the first in France when the shape of novelty- Ceased to the Ital’n. Opera is closed. I dine at Mad. Mechen’s. saw some capital playing & on 5. Monday—I rose at six made the whole was pleased—there my toilette and started for Char­ was a very great audience as is enton. It is about 2 leagues from usual among the French—they Paris. The walk was very pleas­ do love the theater—Much better ant—up the Seine. Charenton is a than the ancients loved their village that in the time of Henry Household god. You could see 4, Louis 13 & 14 was celebrated old men & women there whose for its religious controversies. heads were snowy white. They Now for its large Insane Estab­ even convert churches into thea­ lishment at the head of which is tres in France. The Reverse is the old & distinguished Esquirok* true in our country. The French The Hospital is in magnificent —that is the Parisians make one order and in an admirable situa­ great family and live in the tion—contains 500 inmates. This Restaurants & gardens—those place is designed for the reception coteries we call domestic with of hopeful cases only. The treat­ which we prize as the sources of ment is moral & a steady un­ our heaven borne happiness— restrained occupation—On my 7 they are, it would seem, almost return I passed over to Alfort to utter strangers to. Their common visit the veterinary school—- intercourse is very great—hence where are some 200 or 300 pupils. £ what we call the want of virtue— The establishment is spacious— but they are great lovers—great permanent and in a most perfect admirers of themselves—of their state of preservation. Vicq- country & of their institutions. d’Azyr,f Daubenton, Fourcroz 3d. Saturday. Nothing special in the incidents of this day. I have been * Felix Vicq d’Azyr (1748-94) was perma­ much engaged as usual. Have nent secretary of the Paris Academy of Medicine and one of the greatest comparative not yet heard from America— anatomists of the 18th century. Bespoke some instruments at f Jean Etienne-Dominique Esquirol (1772- Samson’s for the Eye----- 1840), noted for his studies in insanity and 4. Sunday. The morning at the author of Des maladies mentales (2 vols. Hospital—went to the Tuileries and atlas, Paris, 1838). He succeeded Pinel —saw the entrance of the Duke at the Salpetriere in 1810, carried out the have been Professors in this attended at the Clamart and the establishment. For a fuller de­ Hospital— Dined upon the other scription Vid. Galignani. side of the River at Colbert’s. Returned to the city to my other Spent the evening at home, had duties—dined at the Restaurant a call from young Barclay who Vai de Grace. This place we is to accompany me to Italy. have visited—saw the chapel 9. Vendredi—I have heard again made by Anne of Austria, mother that my Banker has failed. If so, of Louis 14. what is to be done? Ina Foreign June 6. This mng. I spent at the Cla­ land and no funds. I learn the mart. As I was returning I was arrival of the Louis Philippe, no informed by one of my com­ letters have come. The Poland patriots that my Banker W ells which sailed on the first was had failed—if so, thought I, obliged to put back from running what is to become of me! I upon a Rock. This evening went at once to the other side of attending at the French Opera. the River but could learn no Certainly it is a magnificent such report. Visited the Biblio- establishment. The scenery sur­ theque du Roi—the greatest passed any thing I could have library in the world—is open to conceived of. All singing and all 2 days in a week & to readers acting, no speaking. Madame oftener. Called on Dan’I. Cutter Eberly performed—the most and dined with him. He is a very accomplished player now in the obliging man. Bot gloves for city—Singer & Dancer. myself. 10. Samedi—This morning I was in June 7. Wednesday—have been in medi­ much trepidation from learning cine today very constantly. At last evening the Wells & Co. has 5 p.m. went to my Dinner and stopped payments. If so I was then to the Theatre Francais and “done up.” Early I called upon the play was Julia—magnificent him & found all well. The Bank play. Md. Plessy surpasses any­ of France has aided him & his. thing I ever saw in working After closing with my Banker I upon the feelings. I did not visited the Madelaine. Certainly suppose I was coming to Paris the most splendid building I to cry of Fiction. I have feelings have seen in France. It was that are very readily moved. I ordained in 1763 Louis XV. It never saw such strong effection lingered till 1808 when Napoleon displayed on the part of the conceived the plan of making a daughter Elise. It made me Temple of Glory. It is wholy of think of home—& the tears, stone—after the best modeled of sweet tears—they poured forth the Roman Temples. Has a without a biding. Peristyle of magnificent Corin­ 8. Thursday—This day devoted to thian Pillars 52-60 ft. high. In matters of the Profession. Noth­ its Pediment is a magnificent ing of interest came up. I have Alto-Relievo—Sth. North—the latter’s “open door” ideas concerning the Bells 4—Its interior now finishing treatment of the insane, reformed their are 3 mag. Domes for light—300 housing and care not only in Paris, but all ft. Long—130 wide—60 high. over France. He founded ten asylums in Marble & Gilt very good—the various parts of the country and was the marble like the Puddingstone first to lecture on psychiatry (1817). the Eye rests upon the building in all its Proportions with great and gave it to Maria Antoinette. pleasure. It is now national property made From this place we went to the so in ’93 Revolution. Its interior Diorama. 1st. We saw the dedica­ is garnished by good paintings & tion of Solomon’s Temple. 2d— statuary. Its Parc, Las jets d’eau, the Valley Goldau of Switzer­ an immense Cascade—a Lake & land. 3rd. Mass at midnight in an orangery—the King & Queen the Church of St. Stephen—the sleep together here!! From thence light was good & the scene we went to Versailles—the walk beyond conception. Solomon’s from St. Cloud about 6 miles Temple, you see the stars. You was very pleasant. Versailles was see the Bridges lighted up in the a place of over 100,000—but now distance. It gradually becomes contains about 30,000. The place light & you see myriads of people was first brought into note by worshiping in the court. You Louis 13 who built a hunting hear the Organ. You see the house there. Louis 14 conceived great temple lighted up. Gradu­ the idea of the Palace in 1664 & ally it darkens—then becomes completed it in 1702. It is somewhat light & all are gone. probably the most magnificent 2d. La Vallee de Goldau-Suisse. Palace or Chateau in Europe. It You see this beautiful vallee by cost 50 millions sterling—It day. The Lac de Zoug. La fronts the East & West—the Montaigne at the Right & that West looks into the garden which of Right 5676 high. Night gradu­ in magnificence surpasses all my ally approaches, the scene is ideas of grandeur. Jets d’eau are hidden in Darkness. You see the numerous—the groves, the Lightning afar—the Moon light promenades, the canal, the sculp­ breaks in & you see the Eboul- ture, the orangerie, the hot house, ments or avalanche which hap­ the lime trees, the Box, the pened in 1806—2d. of Sept, and manner in which all are trimmed, overwhelmed & buried that little the Bassins of Neptune at the village. You see crowd of people north, of Latona, of the God of with hands uplifted & imploring. day and of Winter are the most The scene changes & the vale splendid, the Galery of paintings, returns. 3 church of St. Stephen the statuary, the Chapel, the & mass at midnight. I have seen Gilt work inside are great in the nothing in Paris that surpasses eye of an humble American. The this exhibition. Chapel is beautiful. The Galery 11. Sunday—Rose early—took my is made up mostly of historical breakfast & rode to St. Cloud— paintings—those especially per­ saw the beautiful Park between taining to Louis 14, and to this place & Sevres—the Palace Napoleon—as you pass through or Royal Chateau where Bouna- Galery you will find the Rooms parte was placed at the head of numbered as they mark a partic­ France the 10.N—1799. The ular year the great Battle of Revolution was affected without Waterloo—and St. Helena are the loss of blood. It was always a not there—in the 3d. Story are favorite spot with Napoleon. Portraits in great abundance of Louis 14 procured this & gave it distinguished Personages of all to his Brother, the Due d’Orleans. pursuits—Many of the nobility. Louis 16 afterwards purchased it The Palace of Versailes surpasses anything & everything of the specimens in Choncology. Ento­ kind in Europe. Saw the Royal mology—I saw one Carina (shell) Family—the crowd following which is the best known & is them—who can be more depend­ worth a 1000 Dolls. 5—In this ent than these personages— Garden is a splendid building doomed to an eternal fame in a now nearly done wh. is for moment by the fickle feeling of minerals & specimens in Geology an ignobile vulgus—Reached —the Building is long— Paris at 8 and glad to get back— 13. Tuesday—Have been very much What must the Protestant, Pious engaged in getting ready to leave Dutchesse think of this parade Paris, this mng. heard Lisfranc on Sundays? lecture—procured instruments of 12. Monday—This mng. visited the Sanson. Attended the theatre Hospital La Charite—at 12 Francaise and saw Mdm. Mars— visited the old Church of St. the old Maitresse de Napoleon— Stephen (St. Etienne du Mont)— she is the Theatrical Star. I did some part of it was built in the not think much of her—she was 12 centy. It is not large but a fine in the Misanthrope of Moliere. specimen of gothic architecture The theatre was very much & has some fine Paintings & the crowded. Glass stained like that at Rouen. 14. Wednesday—Today has been the From here went again to the Fete Extraordinaire for the Due Jardin des Plantes—this is a d’Orleans. I have been out but place I love—it is full of science little today. This evening I was & learning—Heard Prof. Valen­ at the Champs de Mars—Where cia give a lecture upon the the feu d’artifice was more mag­ Molusques—the Garden is great. nificent than I ever before con­ 2 large hot-houses. 1. Musee of ceived of—about 200,000 Dolls, Comparative Anatomy has 15 have been expended upon the rooms. 2. Chemical Laboratory. exhibition. There was a large fort 3. Musee Botanique. 4th Musee built with its parapeted towers. de I’histoire naturelle—this It has been building for several Building is large. 3 stories. On weeks. The cannonading was the Lower are the skins of the grand—the rockets and the con- Elephant, the Rhinoceros, the flagation was magnific. The Hippopotamus, of Serpents, and French have enjoyed this day— Shells—fossils and splendid speci­ it has been Elysian to them—the mens of corals & coralines. 2d. Lust of the eye is indomitable & Etage contains the specimens of it would seem that all Paris was Pisces, Reptiles &c. &c. 3 Etage out at the exhibition—Bot Books —Specimens of the Aves. the & specimens today for the Col­ best in the world—these are upon lege. Retired at 12—I rejoice each side—at the west end are that the parade of the new mar­ the Simia—vespitels Feline— ried couple is about over. Canine families, the Marsupia— 15. Jeudi—Today have been very squirrels—rats &c & the East are active in getting ready for Italy the Deers, sheep. Camels— In the mng. called upon our Dromedary—Cameleopards male charge des affairs—got his Sigtre. & female 18 ft. high. Buffalo- on the Passports. 2d. we visited Cectacea &c. In the center of one of the Abatoires of this City. this long hall are arranged the There are 4 of these establish­ ments which belong to the city. —the highest elevation about They are magnificent slaughter Paris. N.W. from the city—2 houses—we went through the Leagues—upon it are 3 Crosses. Abat. de Mont Martre—It is As we descended & even while 389 yards long—140 broad— in the cemetery the city began to Altho the day has been exces­ pour forth its dead. We met sively hot the whole establish­ droves of the undertakers with ment was perfectly sweet—100 their black cocked hats—horses oxen 3 or 400 Calves—a 000 or & carriages—seeming to shew more sheep killed every week. forth in all the habilments of There are compartments where death. Some with much & some the animals are kept. Fountains with little display. One of the are so arranged that water passed carriages was bearing onward to through & washes at pleasure— the long hame the dead—the We may take a good lesson here. coffin was covered with a white Next we visited Mont. Martre. pall & passing from the sides of Here is the 2d great necropolis of the coffin were 4 white Ribbons— Paris. In splendor it stands next which were trailing each a young to Pere Lachaise—yet is far infer­ Miss or Lady dressed in white & ior—the natural beauties surpass over the head of each was a large Pere Lachaise—some fine monu­ white veil—no bonnet—after ments of taste & splendor. The these were 75 or 100 following in principal is that of the Dutchesse the same attire. They do not, as of Montmorency & a smaller with us, walk 2 & 2. Females. I one of Prince Ernest of Saxe have never seen before going to Coburg who died at Paris in the grave. This was a Virgin!! 1832—This was once a Gypsum Yes, so said in Paris—After this quarry, well known to every geog- we met a member of the Legion ogist—is where the great Cuvier of honneur, his trappings were figured & made his splendid born after him. The French seem observations—first called the to give but very very little of champs de repos. Now Mont. that manifestation of feeling Martre—from Mons Mars—a which is so common among us. name which the old Romans Why is it so—is it the religion or gave it from a Temple there to because they have less affection? that God—Leaving the cemetery All seems to be done when the we mounted the higher part of dead is hid and a Chaplet of life the Hill—where we saw the place. Everlasting is placed over the Paris the country North & West grave— —beautiful—beautiful. On this The dead of Paris are a source of summit are 6 wind mills for great revenue—the whole busi­ granding Plaster. We visited a ness is let out to contractors & fine little church in this place­ such, a percentage is paid to saw in it ordinary garniture. government, 67 percent, the dead Paintings, crucifixes &c. by it rest but 5 years & then are dug are the relics of an old convent of up to make room for others— the Benedictine Nuns. Upon the and in Paris about 30,000 die Tower of it is still a Telegraph annually. From thence I went to which held communication with my Banker & settled up—then Bordeaux, Brest & Spain—from visited several old churches—St. this place is seen Mont Calvaire Roch—the church of Ascension &c—Saw the Garden de Tivoli— specimens & must be the most a pretty resort for a warm day— magnificent in the world. 16. Friday—Today have been very 1— Fractures of the head & all busy in procuring Books &c— bones. have been to see no sights— 2— Spontanious lesions—As ex­ Wednesday night in coming out ostoses—hypertrophies of the of the Champs de Mars many bones of the head—malacosity of people were killed in the crowd— all the bones of the body—of the 30 or 40 have died & many more curvature of the spine in particu­ will not recover. Heard today of lar. Spina ventosa—3 magnif. the death of King William iv— specimens, two of the leg—one visited the Musee d’Artierie, tib., one Fibula, one of the certainly a splendid sight—the forearm. steel armour. 3— Hydropic heads. 17. This day have been making all 4— 3 Fistulae of the stomach. possible speed to go from Paris— 5— Abscess of the liver—Tuber­ am fatigued and shall be very cular degeneration of the Peri­ glad when I get through. toneum, etc. 18. Today I early discovered that I 6— Carcinomita—& encepha- had lost 4 Doubloons, equal to loids. 60 Dolls, no small loss at this 7— Herniae of all kinds. time. My trunk must have been 8— Calculi of all kinds. open’d & the money taken. I also 9— Hearts diseased—Aneurisms found my keys wh. I lost six —cancer of a lung—Right. weeks ago—I am confident that 10— Disease of the large vessels. John is the rogue and the money 11 —Hermaphrodites—E x c r e s - could be obtained had I time to sences upon the Genitals—Uterus remain here. double—Ruptured. Visited the Catacombs today — 12— Extroversion of the Bladder saw but little of them—people & uterus. are prohibited entering. My Sun­ 13— Monstrosities. days in Paris I have spent in 14— Wax preparation in the part in visiting the Repose of the center of the Room. Dead. These catacombs I should Called on Velpeau. At six p.m. like to have seen but the public we left Paris & I must say I felt are now prohibited from the great somewhat sad at the idea of danger in entering them. We leaving forever this great city— returned from the Rue d’enfer by there is much to delight in it— making a delightful promenade much of science to induce labor— through the Luxemburg Garden. and give great pleasure and We went to our dinner & then I satisfaction to a scientific as well came home & early retired. as a frivolous mind. The French 19. Monday—this morning paid up are gay, thoughtless, irreligious, my Bills for Books—got my and consequently without that boxes &c ready for transporta­ firm and constant integrity that tion of which there are 4 for the belongs to the dear land of the college & one for me & a trunk. Pilgrims. Still I like Paris— Wrote two letters, one to my Dear there is in it no religion—espe­ home & one to Rogers of Cincin­ cially among the men. Among nati—Visited the Musee de Du­ the many I have seen confessing puytren. It is one of morbid in their churches never have I seen other than women bending with a cap—a Handerchief or a to the ear of the------Priest— large straw hat—generally they We had a pleasant ride on the are very much burnt & tanned. night of the 19—we passed In this Department of Yonne we through Alfort & Fontainebleau passed through several Villes as but saw little of it. In this place Sens, Joigny, Auxerre. All these is a grand Royal Chateau. Here places have a wall. Some old Napoleon held in confinement the buildings of interest. At Auxerre Cardinal. Here he abdicated his we dined—& then went on follow­ throne for Elba in 1812 [sic] ing the beautiful Yonne a short 1814. Here the Due d’Orleans distance from there—then leav­ was married to Helen, the Dutch- ing it we made a short stop at esse of Mecklinburg, Mai 29, Avallon, a beautiful village with 1837. The ride out from Paris a fine walk of lime trees—dressed along the Seine was delightful— by the pruner’s knife as is cus­ delightful. tomary in this country. From 20. Tuesday—The morning is mag­ this place we passed across the nificent and the country far sur­ country to Chalons upon the passes my most sanguine especta- Saone, wh. we reached Wednes­ tions—the Road is straight & day about if "2 p.m. This route paved. No fences in view & the was very hilly, seming more like country open, free from wood & some parts of America. Small hills—many of the Lombardy villages. No scattered buildings. Poplar, but thrifty. Not like ours Vinyards. Rye & wheat. People —the vineyards—these are on the same. Beggers very much every side and splendid. The more numerous, besetting ye vine is allowed to grow about whenever the Diligence stopped 3 ft. tied to a stake. The vine­ —their hats or hands out with a yard at a distance resembles our doleful tone of voice—homme cornfields. It strikes an American pauvre, miserable, infortune, very odd to see women at work donnez un sous, s’il vous plait with the men & as the men pour la charite—they are very reaping, hoeing, driving teams, annoying. riding the Jackass of which you 21. Wednesday—Chalons is a pretty see very many. Women know walled city of 13000 inh. on the nothing of work in America. west bank of the Saone. Here is a Men here are idle, lazy, the large hospital of St. Laurent— women raise the vegetables. Carry good yards attached to it—a them to market. Keep the purse promenade east of it—these being and books. The people live in upon the east bank of the river— this country in villages not scat­ a good bridge, theatre—several tered as in ours—the women do old churches. The canal terminates not move. The reason why they here which connects the Loire & live in villages is for mutual the Saone. Good hotel. Trois protection I presume. The wom­ Faisans—we were glad when we en’s dress is a chemise—a peti- reached this place to rest & clean coat with shoulder straps and up. shoes & stockings—you seldom 22d. Thursday. At 7 we embarked on see a female in this part of board the Hirondelle, a pretty France without these articles of little steam boat for Lyons, a apparel. The head is covered distance of about 35 Leagues, this day’s ride was delightful. high, everything is made of stone The Sadne is a beautiful little in this country. The Hotel de stream & its rich banks are a ville is a splendid piece of archi­ constant source of interest. tecture—Henry iv—in front, Macon in the Department of within are 2 allegorical figures Sadne & Loire is the largest & of the Rhone & Sadne which handsomest place upon the river were once in Bellecour at the —on the west side has a good foot of Louis 14—the large Quai from which the Alps may be Theatre near the Hotel de Ville seen. As we approach Lyons the is a fine building—there are 4 Banks are more wild—the scenery Theats. in the city. more bold & picturesque—and The Musee is well worth seeing— there is a bridge also wh. is the Gallery of Paintings are very attributed to Caesar—about good, the works of the old artists Lyons, it is hardly surpassed —Salle of Statuary where are in by that of any country or place. marble & plaster Apollo Bel- All the places upon the Sadne vedeer—Venus de Med—Pandora were known in the time of Caesar. —Castor & Pollux—P alias — The Adui were the early in­ Mercury—Euridice bitten by the habitants. We arrived at Lyons serpent—the boy with a thorn in at 5 p.m. after a very pleasant his foot—Antignous & many excursion, and put ourselves for others—Specimens of Mosaic are safe keeping at the Hotel du very good—Many young artists Nord where we found a good we saw in the Gallery Cabinet of Land Lady & things very com­ natural History—A large collec­ fortable—this is the 2d. city in tion of antiquities procured from the Kingdom in point of wealth the old town of this city. & population 200,000 inh. situ­ ated between the junction of the Churches. Sadne & Rhone. In this city Le Cathed. de St. Jean was the there is much of interest Ancient one wh. I visited. It is the work & modern—is in the departnt. of many ages. Very old Gothic du Rhone. It was founded by a good—we went into the tower or Roman Consul Lucius Munacius rather into one of them—for are Plaucius—the friend of Cicero & 3—we saw the great Bell—in Horace—under Caesar it received this Tower are 7—one about 200 the inhabitants of Vienna— years old weighs 20,000 or 10 chased by the Allobroges. Upon tons—has some good paintings. the Hill or cote was the Edifice In the upper part of the church built by Trajan. Place now oc­ we found an old Lady weaving cupied by a petite Eglise—was silk. Un Sous. The church is very called water Forum in the old large and equal to any of the old writers. Objects of attention. 1st Eglises in Paris. ascend the elevations & view of Hospitals. Hotel Dieu, founded country & ville—it is magnif. by Childebert & Uttrogothe, the the west side is the preferable former son of Clovis. It is now one elevation for view. The east of of the largest in Europe. 1000 the Sadne for antiquity. beds—3 surgeons—6 Physicn. 18 There is the Square of Louis interns. Wards are very large in xiv Bellecour and his statue— the Salle quatre rouge are 200 the building about this good, beds, in 4 others—each has 120— the Salle Quatre rouge has a mains of antiquity—as cathedral’ magnif. altar. Here is a Salle Triumphal arches—A m p h i - for accouchement, Convalescents’ theatre—Pontius Pilate before Salle also—wh. is a good plan— whom our blessed Saviour was patients after operation are put arraigned—after he was banished into a ward by themselves. We are from Judea—he came here and in carried all over the Establishment this city he died by his own hand. by M. Vitelle. The Tower is 300 Tain, a small village we passed ft. there is a church or chapel— upon the Rhone is famous for 150 nuns take care of the Hospi­ the Red & White wine called tal, Patients &c. the Hermitage. Valence—Tour- Surgeon in Chef. Bagards non—Orange are all places of Bonnet aid-Major interest upon the River—Valence Calvat “ (where) Pope Pius vi died 1775 Medecins Brachet—Chapeau was among the Romans Valencia. Montfacon—Rougier—Pointe & On the East bank some little Gubin. Bagards performs most of distance from the River is seen the operations. Employs the single the old ville of Orange in which Lithatome only—had three oper­ is a fine old edifice called the Arc ations the day I left the city— de Marius—it stands near the Abaises the cataract altogether. road & makes a kind of Tower Connected with the Hotel dieu upon 3 arches 160 ft. high. This is a room for dissecting— monument is distinctly seen from Lecture Room—L’EcoIe second- the River. The River is rapid- aire—Brachet visits his Patients constantly changing its bed— in a large Robe black. Hospital muddy—full of islands. Many de la Charite—this Hospital grew bridges cross it one at Valence out of a famine in 1531. Hospital built in the time of the Romans. des Insenses—this last is upon The longest over the Rhone is the hill where is a venereal ward the Pont St. Esprit—this Pont is also, called also antiquaille. One much celebrated for its beauty & was the Palace of the Governors permanency—it was built by an of the Gauls—Claudius & order of Monks—from 1265 to Caligula were born there. There 1309. 3000 feet long—has 19 also Antonia gave birth to arches—& several small ones. 9— Germanicus. think. The Banks of the Rhone 24. June—Saturday—Left Lyons at are very different from those of 4 a.m. steam boat for Arignon— the Seine, the Saone or any river The mng. delightful—in the mid­ I have seen in France. They are dle of the day very hot and at wild and picturesque. Much of 4 p.m. a smart thunder shower. the way we are saluted by barren The boat was filled with passen­ cliffs with immense ravines, gers. All French except one who abounding in vines & made the claimed to be a Mustleman from site of some ancient villa. The Algiers—was so in dress but in summits of many of these cliffs speech a good Frenchman— bear upon their summit the re­ On our way down the river on mains of some old castle, the sad the East bank is Vienne, a fine relic of former grandeur or of a city in the time of Nero—the Power trembling for its own rival of Lyons—belonged to the wickedness. The Alps are seen Alibroges—here are several re­ much of the sail in the distance. The Boats here are very small Residence of Petrarque—before compared with those of America. him a residence of the Pope— Some of them made of iron. perched upon a precipice 408 ft. At 6 p.m. we reached Avignon, so above the vale below—this we famous in History. This city is examined; it is a place wh. every one of the best walled cities in traveller ought to see. We re­ Europe—it contains 30,000 inh. turned in the evening very much we placed our selves in the Hotel fatigued. While at Vaucluse I d’Europe—which is one of the entered the Church; it was full best I have seen. The Gascons of women—one man alone in the are always beseeching you to congregation. Strange! Heaven remember them. We dined & must be composed of women if went to bed much fatigued. the Catholic Religion be true. 25th. Sunday—At 7 we took a cup of All this country is “set out” coffee—hired a cabriolet and went with crucifixes indicating its re­ to Vaucluse—the most romantic ligion. In one place we passed spot I have ever seen and rendered today there was a large one, notorious not only by its own Christ upon it, the size of life & native grandeur but by the im­ flesh color—At Vaucluse is a mortal lays of Petrarch. It was Pillar erected to the memory of here he lived and devoted him­ Petrarque 60 ft. high. self to the muses in 1335 & so on. 26. Monday—I have said that this It was here that he poured out was the best walled city I had the unadulterated affections of seen in Europe, the wall is 50 or his soul to the Belle Laura. It is 60 feet high, parapeted and a about 16 miles from Avignon fosse in which is running water, through a splendid country of or Moat. This high and im­ vinyards, olive trees and mul­ pregnable wall enclosed the berry groves which have at this Palace of the Popes—the city season been mostly stripped of is very antique—streets narrow, their leaves. winding. On the west side you Vaucluse Fountain is at a niche mount upon a terrace that must in the mountain. This mountain be 150 or 200 ft. above the is of stone alone—jutting over & Rhone wh. affords a fine view of 720 ft. high. The fountain is the country, especially the beauti­ clear, unfathomable, is the source ful village of Villaneuve. Just of a fine clear large stream, filled above this you [see] Rauquemaure with trout—and empties itself where Annabal crossed the Rhone into the Rhone. As you pass to to enter Italy—from this wall the main fountain you see thou­ departs the Bridge which crossed sands of pure fountains gushing the Rhone upon which near its forth from under your feet & center is a small chapel—the pouring into the River Vaucluse. arches of this old bridge are We asended the mountain from magnificent. It was designed for whence the prospect is enchant­ the passage of foot passengers ing, the valleys flowing with and Asses of which you see very “wine and oil,” the meandering many. We first visited the Cathe­ streams, the Alps on the N.E. dral—it is in fine order—situated Ventoux, and at the South you upon this kind of Acropolis. In see the Mediterranean. There is a front is a large crucifix with the House here said to have been the Apostles & Mary about it—the whole a bold piece of statuary— to the Tribunal. By the side of about this the Catholics kneel— this was the cell of severest the church itself is the work of Torture—the vaults of these many ages. The vestibulum or rooms fixed to deaden the cries porch is charming—it was the of the sufferer. In this the walls work of the Romans. A Temple were black—calcined—the Oven of Hercules 2210 years old. The is still there—Horid!! center of the church & the Dome We then went further on & saw of the same age. There is a chapel the old Prison of the Pope—saw here on the sth. side built by the Room where Rienzi was con­ Constantine, the first Roman fined—we saw also the opening Emperor who embraced Chris­ which the Pope made his escape tianity in 330. In this Cathedral through & there passed by a are the mausoleum of Pope Jean subterranean passage to the 22 and of Benedictus, 1334. strong castle at Villeneuve. Saw Many of the Chapels were very the place where the Glacier gaudy—one in which was the Masacre was in 1793—200 were Madona & the Infant Jesus— butched & hurled down 60 ft. dressed with white robes & crowns through an opening—it was upon —They have here also Christ in the side of the building so con­ the Tomb, large as life—the structed as to enable the defence crown of thorns still upon his by hot water. After this we head. I was singularly impressed visited the Musee and saw two with this sight—but the ancient or three old churches, not how­ architecture of the building is ever of much interest. Dans most to be admired. From this 1’eglise Misericorde is an Ivory went to the Palace of the Popes, Crucifix 26 inches long & the now a soldier s barrack and a work of the 16 siecle. The Tomb Prison—I cannot describe my of “Laure belle” was at the feelings in entering within these Church Cordeliers but was de­ mighty walls—where the darkest stroyed in the time of the Revn. human nature is capable of had The whole city has very much of been perpetrated—the halls of an antique air in and around it. torture for freedom of thought. At 1 p.m. we took our places in The Palace is a hollow square— the Diligence for Nimes—distant entrance on the west side. East about 6 leagues—the ride was the Inquisition—S o u t h the very warm and dusty—yet every Chapel—& Norths Halls of recep­ thing to delight on the way, the tion &c—& the Angles are im­ vinyards, the olive groves, the mense towers—the apartments of finest I have seen. The fields the Inquisition were 1—the already ripe for the Harvest, and chapel 2d. the court—3d the full of men, women & children. place of Torture. A walled place The women work as the men: conical form—open at the top—■ Reap, use the sickle, the scythe, where the heritic was tortured & the plough, the fork, all very burnt. The walls are black. We different from ours in America. then descended, entered a gate The working women (and all and passed toward the North work here while the men do East corner. Opened a heavy door nothing) wear 1—cap then an and went down into a Room under immense Black hat—with a crown ground somewhat—here we came the size of a common Tea saucer —this is peculiar to the south of under the Pont du Gard within F. No fences in this country. its arches. Nimes in 408 was Work done mostly by Asses & invaded by the Vandals—in the mules. Vines not staked as in the 8 century it was taken by the middle & north of France. We Saracens—burnt and injured in passed the River du Gard—over every possible way by Charles which is the famous aqueduct of Martel. Under Pepin it was the old Romans, called Pont du added to the crown of France. Gard. We reached Nimes at 7 The amphitheater has served p.m. & put up at the Hotel de for its original purpose for bar­ Luxemboug. Dined here at about racks, for a castle, for a residence; 7^, after dinner made a petite in form it is Oval. 409 long Promenade—there is no place in Diam. 317 short—63 ft. high— all France more famous for its Capable of holding 23000 spec­ antiquities than this. tators. The attic is distinct, 27. Tuesday—Nimes as we learn the Podium was also distinct— today contains 43000 inhabts.—is on one side was the nobility— very ancient. By some it is said on the other the vestals. The to have been founded by Neman- Beasts were admitted under these sus—a descendant of Hercules— —the Gladiators at the Ends of others derive its name from the long Axis. Naumachia were Nemus a grove &c. any how it performed here—Water by the was known before the Christian Pont du Gard—What a passion Era—perhaps the same age with the ancient Romans had!! The Marseilles. The Valci were its Maison Carree is the center of first inhabitants and we find the Augustian Forum & in it is them opposed to Annabal 218 a fine Musee of antiquities & before Christ. It became a Roman Paintings—Cromwell raising the Province under Cezar & Augustus coffin lid of Charles 2d. Pont did very much to enhance its du Gard—Persecution of the glory. There is now to be seen Bohemians in the worship of here of Roman work an Amphi­ the Druids—The Baths &c & theatre in a better state of preser­ Temple of Diana—the stones not vation than any other—the Pal­ cemented. ace or Forum of Augustus— 28. Wednesday—Last evening at 10 The Baths of the same—Temple we mounted the Diligence for of Diana—and a Tower called Montpelier—about 18 miles— here Tour magne—several very warm—dusty uncomfort­ churches and 2 or 3 Protestant able. Nothing gained without churches. I was informed by a labor and we often travel think­ Swiss gentleman, inteligent and ing to make it past-time. What engaged somehow in the Prot­ a laborious one it is. Entered estant cause, that there were the famous Mons Puellorum at now 15000 in the city & increas­ 5 am—sleepy & fatigued. We ing; before the time of Napoleon. found a good Hotel at the Midi. They were not tolerated but Cleaned and prepared for Break­ driven out from the city. Now fast. I however went out at once all are tolerated. There are also to visit the Hospitals & see the in the neighborhood Bohemians medical stars. This city has 2 who live in glens and caves. large ones—one called the Gen­ Several of them are to be found eral, the other the Militaire. I did not remain long at the ments of the Profession—Salle General, but went to the Mili- of Portraits & Room of meetings. taire to see the wards of Lalle- Salle for Examinations, in this mande. He has a large service in was a bronze bust of Hippocrates this H. Serre is his surgical col- —very old—given by Napoleon. Iegue—who was there with Del- At nine this evening we took pech—Heard him give his cliniq- our places in the D. for Nimes ue. was very dull. Saw a new nose where we arrived at 4 in mng. made by him—a Patient in 29. Thursday. Hired a private car­ which he had laid bare the riage for Arles—we saw but little muscles of the neck in removing of this place, is on the Rhone— a Tumor. Breakfasted then put very antique, has an obelisque— out to see the City—old as the amphitheatre—aqueduct of the II centy—Situated high, has a Romans—several old churches— commanding prospect of the cou­ Here we took the boat upon the ntry abounding in vines and Arles Canal. This is a good canal. Oliviers and wheat—here for Banks very perfect, water clear. the first time I saw the Bridges very good. Country some Mediterranean. of the way pleasant, rich, passed Streets very narrow—buildings an old Roman Aqueduct. The high & irregular. People live in canal terminates in an arm of the the streets—work hard. Citadel Meditern. Here we took a sail at the east part of this city & boat and went to Martigues, a makes a part of its wall—fine little town of 8,000—all fish walk here. Place de Peyron very mongers—few men we saw— fine—have seen no better in Oceans of women. Caps short Europe, made by Louis xm— Robes—blue stockings & work­ Famous Aqueduct made by him. ing out doors—carrying immense Triumphal Arch of Louis the weights upon the head—Wed­ great. Cathedral & Bourse not ding & danse at the house where much. Medical School—of more we put up but we were not dis­ interest. It was formed in the turbed as we had not slept for 12 cent’y—it is not certain by two nights. whome—Avicenna & Averhoes 30. Friday. At 4 in the mng. took came here and taught. The Medi­ the Diligence for Marseilles—the cal School is a part of a Uni­ country is hilly—good roads. versity, Chaussier, Dumas, Chap- Hot—Hot place!! in entering tal & a host of other worthies Mar. our luggage all overhauled here. Building has a large Thea­ —good City, Mercantile—has tre—Sella Curialis of Marble the aspect of New York, 150,000 from Nimes in it. Chemical inhabitants—is the first place Laboratory—Library of 30,000 for shipping in France, good vols. A good Anatomical Musee harbor well fortified—we ascend­ —Large Tumor 63 lbs. Ele­ ed the height, had a fine view— phantiasis removed by Delpech some fountains in the place. —Wax preparations very good— Streets wide—well paved & side of the eye, ear, matrix, monsters, walks—Saw Henricus—Croxhall, one put upon the side. Salle the American Consul—got our below was handsome with Fres­ passports arranged—engaged our co & the heads of the men dis­ places for Civita Vechia on board tinguished in the various depart­ the Sully. Hotel was Des Am- bassadeurs—good—purchased a My God—how tenacious. You Sac de Nuit, wrote to my Dear can neither kick, drive, look Wife & Children. In this city the them off, but money they must Colera prevailed sadly in 1835. have. After arranging ourselves There are several Hospitals here. in our rooms & taking our dinner The Drs. distinguished are Cu­ we sallied forth into the city. vier & Martin. The Fish Mar­ The Buildings very high—streets ket— what a place—The Women well paved—Cleaner than those keep it—fight there—children. in the south of France but very Yachts here very pleasant—awn­ narrow—from 3 to 20 ft. wide but ings—pleasure boats—Language few of them wide enough for broken—and different from the carriages. The people seemed Parisien. neat, good looking, the females— July 1. Saturday. At 11 we took our dark eyes—brunettes—and a places on board the steam boat. strip of muslin over the heads, Had a delightful sail. We had made our way to a church, it an opportunity to view the har­ was large—splendidly adorned bor as we departed. The whole & full of men & women in the coast seems rockbound and inac- attitude of worship—the Nave cessable. Toulon and Nice we and parts full—the first time I passed at a distance, the former had seen men engaged in this the place of the great arsenal & holy act. In France the women where Napoleon began his labors do up all the worship and if the other for the Nicean Creed. by the Roman Catholic religion I thought of home in being at Heaven is to be gained—the Sea. We were in sight of the inference is that it will be com­ shore all the way bold & pic­ posed of females & Priests—the turesque—made so by the spurs chants & the deep tones of the of the Alps. The Evaporation of organ were impressive—and the the Mediterranean sea very great. women in their white veils made The sail was delightful. My a grand appearance. The chiesa thoughts & reflections! I These was that of St. Ciro (Siro), are the waters of the Romans— built in 250, the old Cathedral. Greeks—Carthaginians— Syrians The Cross, the virgin, the child —where they made their first and Jesus are the objects of worship, feeble attempts in navigation— especially the former. The cross is upon these waters a Columbus carried, is kissed, is the Palladium plied. Have a capuchin on board of their salvation. After the rais­ —how odd. ing of the host, the congregation 2d. Sunday. About 12 came in sight dispersed—we examined the rich of Genoa—splendid sight—splen­ marble pavement, the beautiful did harbor—buildings appear well coloring, the decorated chapels, —entered the Harbor—2 Arms the sculpture of Puget, the pic­ or moles, light houses—shipping ture of the assumption & the small compared with what it adoration of the shepherds. We once was. Boarded by health then ascended to the Public officers, Custom House officers. esplanade—which is handsome, Is this charming Italy before me? yet inferior to those of Paris. Landed by Boat & went to the Fountain in the Center. Band of Hotel de Londres, good one, Italian music playing here & an visit by waiters, jobbers, beggers, immense concourse of People were gathered to regale the Ear with are grande. It contains a large music. The Italians love music!! collection of Paintings by the Bells chime here at mng. & even­ old masters—as Castello, Guer- ing. Wall surrounds the whole cino, Guido, Titian, Carracci, Ru­ town, 30 or 40 ft. high & a bens, Paolo Veronese &c. &c. parapet walk upon its summit. Palazzo de Serra has one of the The first of these walks called most magnificent rooms in Eu­ aquasole—2d. Promenade des rope called the Saloon of the Remparts—Theatres are 3—that Sun—“Salon du Soleil.” It is of St. Ch’ Felice the most splen­ said to have cost 300,000,000 did marble front. Pillars are of Francs. It was covered with grand, interior, the Parterre large gold, Lapis Lazuli, & Mirrors. and commodious, six rows of There are some good paintings Galleries. This theatre we at­ here. The Floors here are made tended. In going to our lodgings of a plaster—hard, varied in color we got lost but at length found a and presenting a splendid ap­ French man who conducted us to pearance. Visited here the Palaz­ the Hotel—this ended this day. zo Brignole—& Pallavicini—all 3d. Monday—Rose early—took a val­ splendid for their paintings in et de place & visited the Cathe­ Fresco—in Arabesco and in oil & dral, a large church, saw the water. sarcophagus of St. John. They The Palazzo de I’Universite— have here also a Pitcher which Here we saw the several rooms the Queen of Sheba gave to of Law, Theol. medicine, Phi­ King Solomon, Gothic Striped. losophy, &c. The Annunziata, we also visited, In one of the churches here I the University, the Regal Palace. saw for the first time the Eternal The Palazzo Ducale. In this is a Pere depicted—Horrid idea—un­ splendid Hall which was filled worthy all civilized beings. 2 with fine statuary but destroyed hospitals here & a medical school in the Revolution, have been connected with the University repaired by plaster &c. In this and its Reputation is good. There same Palace is the Great council is here also the Regal Palace in chamber, adorned by beautiful which there is one of the most Fresco representing the Landing valuable paintings extant. Mary of Columbus in America, but Magdalene at the feet of Jesus strange to me all are white!! at the House of the Pharasee by At the other End is the consecra­ Paolo Veronese. Genoa is in short tion of the remains of St. John. a beautiful city, containing in These are copies from the famous 1837 120,000 inhab. The Hotel paintings by Solimena, the origi­ d’Europe I found very good. nals were destroyed by fire. The The Promenades of the city are Prow of the Carthaginean ship very good and the people appear which was found in the harbor is very much better than any I removed to the Musee—Palazzo have seen out of Paris. At 6 we del Monsig. Giacomo Filippo. again went on board of the This is one of the most splendid steam boat for Leghorn or as Palaces of the city of Columbus— they call it here Livourno. We the Portes in these palaces are however did not leave the Harbor magnificent from their structures until after 7 and on account of a of marble—the pillars & stairs mistake on the part of the Po­ lice in sending back to Marsielles it is very grand and extensive. three passports which proved to The Aquaduct, the Baths, warm, be ours we were at first vexed, about 3 miles out toward the but ultimately concluded to make Mountains may be seen, the the best of it and get new pass­ Convent. The Farm of the grand ports at Leghorn. Duke of Tuscany. 4. Tuesday. This mng. at 8 we The Duomo is one of the most reached Leghorn—were glad to splendid in Italy—very rich in see the American flag floating its structure—and decorations. in the Harbor. Seemed nearer in There is a famous bronze door relationship than I had ever some 800 years old. The Bap­ before felt it. Our first business tistry and Campo Santo are was to arrange our passports, we objects of much interest. The Pul­ called upon our Consul, an Octo­ pit in the Baptistry is very fine, genion—by the name of Apple­ beautiful basso relievo. There is ton. Next got our Cafe, then a a University here, one of the veturino and started for Pisa— three in Tuscany; it has enjoyed for we were now in Tuscany. a high reputation. The climate of The distance 14 miles, good level Pisa is thought by some to be the road, we were struck with the finest in Italy. The city is very appearance of the country, people old, settled it is supposed by some &c. looked poor. Men & women followers of Nestor soon after were at work together in the the fall of Troy. There are relics field, reaping and haying. No of works made here by the Ro­ barns, stack their hay and grain. mans, as Nero. Our visit here was Thrash their grain either by much too short. We returned treading or by striking the heads again to Leghorn about which over a piece of wood. Work I must say a few words. It is a cows as oxen. Their plough is a fine walled city of 70 or 80,000 crotched stick somewhat as in inhabitants, was the first free the time of Virgil. We reached port in the Mediterranean, and Pisa, a walled City, now contain­ a place of more mercantile trade ing about 20,000, once contained than any Italian City. You see over 100,000. It is delightfully a motley group of all nations situated upon the Arno in a here and you hear all languages. magnificent plain. The Mediter­ Some fine streets flagged like ranean seen from high buildings. Pisa. This place was made by The streets are wide and all the Medici. The English burying flagged, instead of Paving. The ground is an object of notice, Arno has 3 stone Bridges—Quays here lies the great Historian, extensive. We hastened to see the SmoIIet. The statue of Ferdi- leaning tower, the wonder of the nando 1 is in the ship yard—with world. It was begun in 1175, 4 large Bronze negros chained has 8 stories 190 feet high & con­ to the Pedestal. At 5 we sail’d tains 7 Bells, it being the Com- again for the Roman states. The panile of the Duomo. It inclines sailing was very pleasant in the 13 feet from the perpendicular. evening, the Island Gorgona was It is composed of granite & in sight and in the night we marble. The Custode said it was passed near Elba where Napolean so built in the beginning. It was placed for security. Our probably was not. The view from company on board was composed of English, Americans, French Road was tolerable, the weather & Italians. very warm. We passed through 5th. Wednesday—This day at 11 a.m. no villages but the whole country we arrived at Civitavechia. Here seemed a waste. We saw in the was our first introduction to the fields some large droves of horses, Pope’s power. This is the only not restrained by fences for there port of any magnitude belonging are none and we saw large Herds to the Pope, a walled city, some of the finest cattle I ever saw in 20,000. Freeport in its trade, was my life, all mouse colored. Horns first built by Trajan and called long and upright and black— in his time the Portus Trajani. We passed some old castles & It has a large breakwater made buildings and 2 or 3 poor Inns. by sinking stones to secure the At 10 we stopped for an hour and harbor. In landing we had some baited horses & got some little trouble, the men actually fight­ refreshments, horses & ourselves ing among themselves to obtain all entering the same door. The the small service of taking our Via from Rome to Civitavechia is Luggage ashore. It was taken called the Vetellia, the gate being into a strong walled building to be upon Mons Janiculus. There were overhauled by the Police; then two objects of dread in this we went to the hotel, got a poor night’s travel, first the Italian Dinner and made a party of 5 Robbers; being without arms to go to Rome, the distance I put my gold into my Boots, of 47 miles; a French Lady & her hoping thereby to save that if son. She was worth her weight in I was assaulted. 2d. I feared Gold to travel with, she made the the malaria of the Compagna di bargain with the Veturino to take Roma. We reached the Gates us to Rome and the writings were of Imperial Rome as she once drawn and at past 3 we were was at 6 in the mng. It is impos­ ready to start, come weal or sible to describe the feeling with come woe, in night travelling in which I viewed the walls of Italy. Rome. I entered and asked my­ We were beset again [by] the self the question, is it possible custom house officers before we I am where the Godlike Romans could leave the city. Our Lug­ once were? My feelings, my gage was taken, overhauled and thoughts upon the kings, the Plumbed, this last operation was consuls, the Emperors, the Poets, to obtain money, and which in the orators, the statesmen, the this case did us more harm than Generals. Where were they? Gone good for we were obliged to go to and with them had gone two the Dogana at Rome and suffer thousand years to be swallowed another vexatious examination. up in the mighty ocean of time. We had some small Helices which The work of their heads & hands we picked up at Vaucluse which still survive to astound the won­ were taken from us lest we should dering traveller. convert them into Cameos. At about past 4 we got off Bibliography from these dogs and wended our way for some distance along the Cases of extensive encephaloid degeneration shore of the Mediterranean. The of kidneys in children. N. York M. J., view of the sea was pleasant, the 206, 1850. Trephining the cranium and ligature of the Cancer: a study of 397 cases of cancer of carotid in epilepsy with cure. (Was the female breast, with clinical observa­ unable to find where this was published.) tion. (Comp, by his son Willard Parker, Practical remarks on concussion of the nerves. Jr.) N. Y., Putnam, 1885. N. York M. J., 3 s., 1: 189, 1856. Cooper, Samuel, 1789-1848. First lines of Ligature of subclavian artery for axillary and the practice of surgery . . . with notes subclavian aneurysm. Med. Rec., 2: 97, & additions by Willard Parker. 4th Am. 1867. from 7th Lond. ed. 2v. N. Y., Wood Ligature of the subclavian inside the scalenus, 1844. together with common carotid and vertebral arteries for subclavian aneur­ ism. Am. Med. Times, 8: 114, 1864. Biographies Report of the committee on ligature of the subclavian artery. Trans. A. M. A., Lusk, W. C. Willard Parker. Surg., Gynec 18: 239, 1867. Obstet., 41: 525-528, 1925, port. Maste Cystitis with rupture of the bladder treated surgeons of America series. by cystotomy. Trans. Med. Soc. N. York, Warbasse, J. P. Willard Parker and his p. 345, 1867. medical library. Long Island M. J., 1: Calculous concretion forming around a frag­ 122-124, 1907. ment of bougie of the slippery elm. N. Obituaries and Biographies York Med. Gaz., 1: 21, 1841-42. BostonM.ifS.J. no: 427, 1884. Tuberculous kidney. N. York J. Med., 2 s, Med. News, 44: 521, 1884. 13: 236, 1854. Med. Rec., 25: 472, 1884; 71: 1081, 1907. Operation for abscess of the appendix vermi- Med. & Surg. Reporter, 13: 17, 1865; 50:576, formis caeci. Med. Rec., 2: 169, 1867. 1884. Case of abscess in the appendix vermiformis N. York M. J. 1884. 39: 502, 1884; 85: caeci. Med. Rec. 2: 169, 1867. 1224, 1907. Surgery of the neck. In Dennis: System of Am. Surg. Ass’n., (85) 2: xxxix, 1884. Surgery. Phila., 1895, 3: 169-198. Med. Soc. N. York Trans., p. 328, 1885.