Food and Cooking HIST 3118
Coordinator: Dr Rachel Herrmann
Tutors: Dr Rachel Herrmann – [email protected] (room 2057, building 65) Office hours: Tuesdays, 12-1, and Wednesdays, 11-12 Professor Chris Woolgar – [email protected] (room 2055, building 65) Office hours: Mondays, 2-4 Table of Contents
Introduction p. 2
Teaching Aims, Learning Outcomes, & Learning Activities p. 3
Assessment, Over Length Work, and Plagiarism p. 4
Attendance p. 5
Background Reading p. 9
The Module Programme in Brief p. 8
The Module Programme in Detail p. 9
Research References p. 39
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Introduction The Great British Bake Off. Celebrity chefs. Tweeting what you ate for breakfast. Food and cooking are as ubiquitous today as they have always been, but like everything else we study at Southampton, they have a longer historical context. This module will introduce you to some of the ways in which historians and other scholars—such as anthropologists and archaeologists—have thought about food. After a brief overview of food studies methods, the module will take a thematic approach. The focus for the course will generally be on British and American readings, though some case studies may be examined in a more international context. Each week will draw on a range of examples from the medieval through to the modern period to explore the position of food in society.
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Module Aims This module aims to Introduce you to food and cooking as a historical practice Introduce you to ways in which historians and other disciplines concerned with the past have considered food and cooking Encourage you to think about food and culture as a means for a wider understanding of social, economic, political and religious history
Learning Outcomes Having completed this module you will be able to Describe how an analysis of food and cooking adds to or challenges what we know about medieval, early modern, and modern history Assess the arguments of different disciplines in debates about food and its place in society Synthesise the historiographical scholarship on food and cooking Lead your peers in a discussion of readings related to food and cooking Present your work verbally Analyse, using several case studies, how food and cooking have changed over time
Teaching & Learning Methods There will be one seminar each week. Some weeks will focus on secondary literature, whilst other weeks will focus more on primary sources. In each week you can expect to have about 150 pages of reading, which should be manageable at this point in your degree.1 During the first portion of each seminar, your tutors will be observers rather than participants; we expect you, as third years, to take charge of your own learning. For this reason we will assign discussion leaders in the first week of class. Discussion leaders will be responsible for strategizing about questions well before the start of seminar, and to create and maintain discussion of the readings. This class meets on Tuesdays. During the weeks when you are a discussion leader, it is your responsibility, by 9 a.m. on Monday, to use Blackboard to send an email to all of your classmates and tutors, with a list of potential discussion questions. Once we are gathered in class the following day, you may run your portion of the seminar in whatever way you wish—unconventional formats are encouraged! In the second half of the seminar tutors will jump in and redirect conversation to make sure that everyone takes away what they’re meant to take away from the readings.
1 You will note that the module webpage for this class assumes you will devote approximately 20 hours per week to reading and preparation for seminar. If you are having problems with the reading, please do come and speak to the module convenor in office hours so that you can talk about reading strategies. 3
Assessment The assessments for this seminar are 1) A presentation 2) A final essay, and 3) An examination. The presentation will take place before the Christmas break, and is meant to be a low-stakes way for you to offer some initial conclusions about the research and reading you have done for your final essay. It will also be an opportunity to receive feedback on your topic from your tutors and your classmates. No set times have been allocated to essay tutorials, but you should start thinking about your choice of topic early in the module; a Special Collections seminar is arranged for the week beginning 2 November, and should help to familiarize you with the sources available for research at Southampton. By the week beginning 9 November at the latest you should have made an appointment with the appropriate tutor (in terms of subject area) or with the co-ordinator to discuss the essay. A list of past exam questions will be provided before the break, and in January tutors will be available in office hours to field any of your questions. You will be expected to answer two questions in two hours from a choice of seven.
Presentation (10 minutes) 10% Essay (4000 words) 45% Examination (2 hours, 2 questions) 45%
Presentations will take place the week beginning 7 December. Essays (choice of topic to be negotiated with one of the module tutors) are due online by 4 pm on 7 January. The exam will take place during the Examination period from Monday 11-Saturday 23 January 2016. A list of past exam questions will be available on Blackboard.
Over Length Work Assignments which exceed the specified word limit BY ANY MARGIN will be subject to a penalty. This excludes appendices and bibliography, but includes quotations. Footnotes which are part of a referencing system are excluded from the word count but footnotes used to enhance the discussion in the main text (discursive footnotes) are included. Over length work will be addressed through marking only that portion of work that falls within the word limit. Your mark will be based on this portion of your work with the result that the mark will usually be lowered.
Plagiarism Plagiarism is a form of cheating that involves copying or paraphrasing someone else’s work without attribution, and you face serious consequences if you are caught doing it. In order to successfully avoid plagiarism, you will need to know how to properly reference your work and cite sources. For further guidance, see the History Undergraduate Student Handbook.
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Attendance Attendance at all sessions is compulsory and a register will be taken.
1. If you have to miss a lecture or seminar for a good reason, such as a job interview, let us know in advance if at all possible, and find out the necessary preparation for the following week. If you miss a class through illness, please let us know as soon as you are able. 2. Keep in mind that the knowledge you need for the exam is acquired cumulatively through the course, and we will ask you to synthesise different themes from different weeks, as well as to describe how aspects of food and cooking have changed over time. Students who miss sessions will likely struggle to do well on the exam. 3. If you have missed two classes without offering an adequate explanation for your absence, the module coordinator will contact you; if you miss three classes, the coordinator will contact your personal tutor. Multiple absences from seminars is likely to result in the failure of the module (warning: this has happened on a number of occasions in previous years). Absence from seminars will be recorded on your file and may be invoked at the final examination meeting as an element in the adjudication of your final degree result. Poor attendance is also likely to be mentioned in any reference you may subsequently ask us to write for you.
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Background Reading You will find a list of required and recommended reading for each week in the pages that follow. You should also do your own literature search for your chosen essay topic and discuss this with the appropriate tutor. This list is meant to provide background for those of you not familiar with the history of food and cooking.
The following have been made available for purchase from October Books, which sets up a stall on the Avenue Campus
Panikos Panayi, Spicing up Britain: The Multi Cultural History of British Food, (London: Reaktion Books, 2008) M. LaCombe Political Gastronomy: Food and Authority in the English Atlantic World (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2012)
The following are on short loan at Avenue, through the Course Collection K. Albala Eating right in the Renaissance (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 2002) TX 641 ALB (and online via WebCat) John Burnett, Plenty and Want: A Social History of Food in England from 1815 to the present day (3rd ed. London: Routledge, 1989) Carole Counihan & P.Van Esterik (eds.), Food and Culture: A Reader, (London and New York: Routledge, 1997) J. L. Flandrin and M. Montanari (eds.) Food: a culinary history from Antiquity to the present (New York: Columbia University Press, 1999) TX 353 FLA Massimo Montanari, Food is Culture, (New York: Columbia University Press, 2006) P. Freedman (ed.) Food: the history of taste (London: Thames and Hudson, 2007) TX 353 FRE Jack Goody, Cooking, cuisine and class: a study in comparative sociology (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1982) HM 101 GOO M. LaCombe Political Gastronomy: Food and Authority in the English Atlantic World (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2012) E 46 LAC S. Mennell, All manners of food: eating and taste in England and France from the Middle Ages to the present (Oxford: Basil Blackwell, 1985) GT 2853.G7 MEN Panikos Panayi, Spicing up Britain: The Multi Cultural History of British Food, (London: Reaktion Books, 2008) J. Thirsk Food in early modern England: phases, fads and fashions 1500-1760 (London: Hambledon Continuum, 2007) GT 2853.G7 THI C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2006) GT 2853.G7 WOO (and online via WebCat)
The following are reference works that contain useful bibliographies for further research: A. Davidson (revised by T. Jaine) The Oxford Companion to Food (2nd edition, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2006) K.F. Kiple and K.C. Ornelas (eds.) The Cambridge World History of Food (2 vols., Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000) Andrew F. Smith, ed. The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 3 vols. New York: Oxford University Press, 2012 (2nd edition).
Further background reading
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M.W. Adamson Food in medieval times (Westport, Conn: Greenwood, 2004) M. Carlin and J.T. Rosenthal (eds.) Food and eating in medieval Europe (London: Hambledon Press, 1998) H.E.M. Cool Eating and drinking in Roman Britain (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2006) J.C. Drummond and A. Wilbraham The Englishman’s Food (new edition, London: Pimlico, 1991) J. Floyd & L. Foster (eds.), The Recipe Reader: Narratives – Contexts – Traditions (2003) Paul Freedman, Joyce E. Chaplin and Ken Albala (eds.) Food in Time and Place: the American Historical Association Companion to Food History (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2014) A.J. Frantzen Food, Eating and Identity in Early Medieval England (Woodbridge: Boydell Press, 2014) B.A. Henisch, The medieval cook (Woodbridge: Boydell Press, 2009) S. Hindle and J. Humphries Feeding the masses: plenty, want and the distribution of food and drink in historical perspective (Special issue of the Economic History Review, second series, 61 (supplement 1) (2008)) T. Scully The art of cookery in the Middle Ages (Woodbridge: Boydell Press, 1995)
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Module Programme in Brief 1 Week beginning 28 September: Chronology and Methods for Food Studies (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar) 2 Week beginning 5 October: Single Foodstuffs (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar) 3 Week beginning 12 October: Hunger (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar) 4 Week beginning 19 October: Food Grammar and Feasting (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar) 5 Week beginning 26 October: The Virtue of Choice (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar) 6 Week beginning 2 November: Special Collections visit (Karen Robson) 7 Week beginning 9 November: Health and Diet (Joan Tumblety) 8 Week beginning 16 November: Sugar, Spice, and the Not-So-Nice (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar) 9 Week beginning 23 November: Contact and Cannibalism (Rachel Herrmann) 10 Week beginning 30 November: Consumerism and Food (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar) 11 Week beginning 7 December: The Southampton Symposium on Food and Cooking (Student presentations) 12 Week beginning 6 January: This week is for personal revision. Tutors will be available to discuss your revision plans.
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Module Programme in Detail
Week 1 (week beginning 28 September 2015). Introduction: Chronology and Methods for Food Studies (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar)
Themes considered include: The development of food and cooking as means for the study of the past The roles of different disciplines and the range of evidence Different national and gendered perspectives and research interests Case studies: menus
This will also be an organisational meeting, to allocate tasks for the seminars
For all to read for discussion in class: B. Cowan, ‘New Worlds, New Tastes: Food Fashions After the Renaissance’, in Paul Freedman (ed.) Food: the History of Taste (London: Thames and Hudson, 2007) pp. 196-231 [available digitised through the Course Collection] C.C. Dyer, ‘Seasonal Patterns in Food Consumption in the Later Middle Ages’, in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in Medieval England: Diet and Nutrition (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2006) pp. 201- 14 [available electronically] Elizabeth Engelhardt, ‘Introduction’, in The Larder: Food Studies Methods from the American South, ed. John T. Edge, Elizabeth Engelhardt, and Ted Ownby (Athens: University of Georgia Press, 2013), 1-6 [available electronically] Rachel B. Herrmann, ‘Early America’, in The Routledge History of American Foodways, ed. Michael D. Wise and Jennifer Jensen Wallach (forthcoming February 2016) [available via Blackboard] Susan Leonardi, ‘Recipes for Reading: Summer Pasta, Lobster a La Riseholme, and Key Lime Pie’, PMLA, 104, no. 3 (1989): 340-7 [available via JSTOR]
Specimen menus (handouts in class) From the dinner book of the dowager Lady Swaythling, 5 July 1934 Celebratory dinner, 1925, to mark the electrification of the Southern Railway to Guildford Banquet in honour of the visit of the Prince of Wales, Jodhpur, 30 November 1921
Recommended reading on food history and key studies The first four titles are on short loan J. Burnett Plenty and want: a social history of food in England from 1815 to the present day (3rd edition, London: Routledge, 1989) M. Jones Feast: why humans share food (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2007) Michael A. LaCombe, Political Gastronomy: Food and Authority in the English Atlantic World (Philadelphia, PA: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2012) S.Mennell All manners of food: eating and taste in England and France from the Middle Ages to the present (Oxford: Basil Blackwell, 1985) Annales: Économies, Sociétés, Civilisations: bulletins on ‘Vie matérielle et comportements biologiques’ in 16 (1961) pp. 545-74, 723-71, 959-86 (a translation of Barthes’ piece is in C. Counihan and P. Van Esterik (eds.) Food and culture: a reader (London and New York: Routledge, 1997)); 17 (1962)
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pp. 75-94, 318-31, 885-922; 18 (1963) pp. 133-41, 521-40, 1133-52; 19 (1964) pp. 467-79, 933-7. Arjun Appadurai, “How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contemporary India,” Comparative Studies in Society and History, vol. 30, no. 1 (January 1988): 3-24 J.C. Drummond and A. Wilbraham The Englishman’s food (new edition, London: Pimlico, 1991) C.C. Dyer, ‘English diet in the later Middle Ages’ in T.H. Aston, P.R. Coss, C. Dyer and J. Thirsk (eds.) Social relations and ideas: essays in honour of R.H. Hilton (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1983) pp. 191-216 B. Harvey Living and dying in England 1100-1540: the monastic experience (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1993) pp. 34-71, 216-30 Nancy Jenkins, “Martha Ballard: A Woman’s Place on the Eastern Frontier,” in Arlene Avakian and Barbara Haber, eds., From Betty Crocker to Feminist Food Studies: Critical Perspectives on Women and Food (Amherst & Boston: University of Massachusetts Press, 2005), 109-119. C. Lévi-Strauss, ‘The culinary triangle’ in C. Counihan and P. Van Esterik (eds.) Food and culture: a reader (London and New York: Routledge, 1997) pp. 28- 35 M. Mead, ‘The changing significance of food’ in C. Counihan and P. Van Esterik (eds.) Food and culture: a reader (London and New York: Routledge, 1997) pp. 12-19 Janet Theophano, Eat My Words: Reading Women’s Lives through the Cookbooks They Wrote (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2002). C.M. Woolgar, ‘Food and the Middle Ages’, Journal of Medieval History 36 (2010) pp. 1-19
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Week 2 (week beginning 5 October 2015). Single Foodstuffs (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar)
We start our more detailed consideration of food history with an examination of corn and pork. It has been argued by Rachel Laudan that cereals were a key food that allowed societies to accumulate surpluses in ways that other staples, such as roots, were never able to sustain—and that these surpluses were key in allowing societies to develop urban centres and maintain armies. Such dependence was also a point of vulnerability, and we will see during the course subsistence crises precipitated by the failure of single foodstuff regimes. Achieving surpluses of grain might have to be balanced with competing uses of the land, such as livestock husbandry, which created its own set of conflicts. Meat forms an important component in Western diet, but the role that it has played—and the different meats involved—have varied considerably over time. We will focus our discussion on pigs and pork, a meat that preserves well, yet is considered unclean or undesirable in various cultures.
Our readings will allow you to explore some of the arguments in more detail, and the case studies will demonstrate some of the variation that in fact existed in these economies, both in terms of crops and domesticated animals and the contributions that these staples made to diet in terms of food and drink. We will think as well about the variety of products that could be made from staple foods.
For all to read for discussion in class:
U. Albarella, ‘Pig Husbandry and Pork Consumption in Medieval England’ in Woolgar, Serjeantson and Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, 72-87 [Available electronically] Virginia DeJohn Anderson, ‘King Philip’s Herds: Indians, Colonists, and the Problem of Livestock in Early New England’, William and Mary Quarterly, 3d series, vol. 51, no. 4 (Oct. 1994): 601-24. [JSTOR] C. Dyer, ‘Changes in Diet in the Late Middle Ages: the Case of Harvest Workers’, Agricultural History Review 36 (1988), 21-37 [TDNet] Marvin Harris, ‘The Abominable Pig’, in Food and Culture: A Reader, ed. Carole Counihan and Penny Van Esterik, 59-71 [Available electronically] R. Laudan, Cuisine and Empire: Cooking in World History (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2013), 9-55 [Available electronically] D.J. Stone, ‘The Consumption of Field Crops in Late Medieval England’, in in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in Medieval England: Diet and Nutrition (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2006), 201-14 [Available electronically]
Further reading Gardens, Grain, Fruits, and Vegetables W. Ashley The bread of our forefathers (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1928) HD 9041 Deborah Barndt, Tangled Routes: Women, Work, and Globalization on the Tomato Trail (Lanham, MD: Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, Inc., 2002). B.M.S. Campbell, J.A. Galloway, D. Keene and M. Murphy A medieval capital and its grain supply: agrarian production and distribution in the London region c.1300 (London: Institute of British Geographers, Historical Geography Research Series, 30; 1993) HD 9041.5 MED
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E.J.T. Collins, ‘Dietary change and cereal consumption in Britain in the nineteenth century’ Agricultural History Review 23 (1975) pp. 97-115 C.C. Dyer, ‘Gardens and garden produce in the later Middle Ages’ in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, pp. 27-40 C.C. Dyer, ‘Seasonal patterns in food consumption in the later Middle Ages’ in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, pp. 201-14 L. Moffett, ‘The archaeology of medieval plant foods’ in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, pp. 41-55 Michael Pollan, The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals (New York: The Penguin Press, 2006). John Soluri, “Accounting for Taste: Export Bananas, Mass Markets, and Panama Disease,” Environmental History, 7, no. 3 (July 2002): 386-410. John Soluri, Banana Cultures: Agriculture, Consumption, and Environmental Change in Honduras and the United States (Austin: University of Texas, 2005). Available online via WebCat J. Thirsk Food in early modern England: phases, fads and fashions 1500-1760 (London: Hambledon Continuum, 2006) pp. 171-82, 229-35, 284-94 M. Thick, ‘Garden seeds in England before the late eighteenth century: I. Seed growing’ Agricultural History Review 38 (1990) pp. 58-71; and ‘Garden seeds in England before the late eighteenth century: II. The trade in seeds’, pp. 105- 16
Domesticated Meat and Wild Game M. Bailey, ‘The rabbit and the medieval East Anglian economy’ Agricultural History Review 36 (1988) pp. 1-20 J. Birrell, ‘Deer and deer farming in medieval England’ Agricultural History Review 40 (1992) pp. 112-26 J. Birrell, ‘Procuring, preparing, and serving venison in late medieval England’ in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, pp. 176-88 J. Cummins The hound and the hawk: the art of medieval hunting (London: Weidenfeld and Nicholson, 1988; reprinted by Phoenix Press, 2001) A.J.S. Gibson, ‘The size and weight of cattle and sheep in early modern Scotland’ Agricultural History Review 36 (1988) pp. 162-71 M. LaCombe Political Gastronomy: Food and Authority in the English Atlantic World (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2012), ch. 3. Peter C. Mancall, ‘Pigs for Historians: Changes in the Land and Beyond’, William and Mary Quarterly, 3d series, vol. 67, no. 2 (April 2010): 347-75. Elinor G. K. Melville, A Plague of Sheep: Environmental Consequences of the Conquest of Mexico (Cambridge University Press, 1994). Harriet Ritvo, “Mad Cow Mysteries,” in James L. Watson and Melissa L. Caldwell, eds., The Cultural Politics of Food and Eating: A Reader (Malden, MA: Blackwell Publishing, 2005), 299-306. GT 2850 WAT B. Short, ‘“The art and craft of chicken cramming”: poultry in the Weald of Sussex 1850-1950’ Agricultural History Review 30 (1982) pp. 17-30
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N. Sykes, ‘The impact of the Normans on hunting practices in England’ in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, pp. 162-75 J. Thirsk Food in early modern England: phases, fads and fashions 1500-1760, pp. 235-65 C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, chapters on meat (pp. 56-101), and poultry and birds (pp. 131- 61) C.M. Woolgar, ‘Diet and consumption in gentry and noble households: a case study from around the Wash’ in R.E. Archer and S. Walker (eds.) Rulers and ruled in late medieval England: essays presented to Gerald Harriss (London: Hambledon Press, 1995) pp. 17-31
Dairy E. Melanie DuPuis, Nature’s Perfect Food: How Milk Became America’s Drink (New York: New York University Press, 2002). J. Thirsk Food in early modern England: phases, fads and fashions 1500-1760, pp. 270-84 C.M. Woolgar, ‘Meat and dairy products in late medieval England’ in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, pp. 88-101
Drink J.M. Bennett Ale, beer, and brewsters in England: women’s work in a changing world, 1300 to 1600 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1996) HD 6073.L62 BEN (and online via WebCat) P. Clark The English alehouse: a social history, 1200-1830 (London: Longman, 1983) GT 3843 CLA B.W. Cowan The social life of coffee: the emergence of the British coffee house (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2005) TX 908 COW (and online via WebCat) R. Emmerson British teapots and tea drinking 1700-1850, illustrated from the Twining Teapot Gallery, Norwich Castle Museum (London: HMSO, 1994) quarto NK 8730 EMM M.K. James (ed.) Studies in the medieval wine trade (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1971) HD 9385 Peter C. Mancall, Deadly Medicine: Indians and Alcohol in Early America (New York: Cornell University Press, 1995). Sarah Hand Meacham, Every Home a Distillery: Alcohol, Gender, and Technology in the Colonial Chesapeake (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2009). D.J. Stone, ‘The consumption of field crops in late medieval England’ in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, pp. 11-26 R.W. Unger Beer in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2004)
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Week 3 (week beginning 12 October 2015). Hunger (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar)
Sometimes the absence of food can tell us just as much, if not more than its presence. Scholars such as James Vernon have recently argued that only in the nineteenth century did hunger become preventable, but people from much earlier periods did take steps to try to prevent hunger. What was novel at this time was the extent to which this became a government responsibility, as opposed to a private and institutional endeavour. Food riots were not new, but from this period when governments failed to take the initiative at points of crisis, political protests often ensued. In other instances hunger and famine led to the reworking of extant government provision.
For all to read for discussion in class: C. Dyer, ‘Did the Peasants Really Starve in Medieval England?’, in M. Carlin and J. Rosenthal (eds.) Food and eating in medieval Europe (London: Hambledon, 1998) pp. 53-71 [Available electronically through the Course Collection] J. Davis, ‘Baking for the Common Good: a Reassessment of the Assize of Bread in Medieval England’, Economic History Review, 2nd series, 57 (2004), pp. 465- 502 Peter Gray, ‘Famine and Land in Ireland and India, 1845-1880: James Caird and the Political Economy of Hunger’, The Historical Journal, Vol. 49, No. 1 (March 2006), pp. 193-215 Michael A. LaCombe, Political Gastronomy: Food and Authority in the English Atlantic World (Philadelphia, PA: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2012), 90- 107 [Available online] Barbara Clark Smith, ‘Food Rioters and the American Revolution’, William and Mary Quarterly, 3d series, 51, no. 1 (Jan. 1994), 3-38 E. P. Thompson, ‘The Moral Economy of the English Crowd in the Eighteenth Century’, Past & Present, no. 50 (Feb. 1971), 76-136
Documents Excerpts from coroners’ rolls and from manorial accounts, 1310s [On Blackboard]
Further Reading Primary Sources The preface to the 1863 edition of Gustave de Beaumont’s Ireland (1839), reprinted in Gustave de Beaumont, Ireland, Social, Political, and Religious, introduced by Tom Garvin & Andreas Hess, edited & translated by W.C. Taylor (2006), pp.379-403 (online via WebCat) Remarks on Ireland: as it is; - as it ought to be; - and as it might be: Sir Robert Peel's plantation scheme, &c. suggested by a recent article in "The Times;" and addressed to the capitalists of England, by a Native (1849) David Milne Home, Observations of the probable cause of the failure of the potato crop in the years 1845 and 1846 (1847) John Killen, The Famine Decade: contemporary accounts 1841-1851 (1995) Asenath Nicholson, Annals of the Famine in Ireland (1851/1998)
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Ninian Niven, The potato epidemic and its probable consequences: a letter to His Grace the Duke of Leinster, as President of the Royal Agricultural Improvement Society of Ireland (1846) Brendan Ó Cathaoir, Famine Diary (1998) William Henry Smith, A Twelve Months’ Residence in Ireland during the Famine and Public Work: 1846 and 1847 (1848) Alexander Somerville, The Whistler at the Plough: containing travels in most parts of England: with letters from Ireland (Manchester: Ainsworth, 1852) William Steuart Trench, Realities of Irish Life (3rd ed., 1869) Sir Charles Edward Trevelyan, The Irish Crisis: Being a narrative of the measures for the relief of the distress caused by the Great Irish Famine of 1846-47 (1848) Robert Whyte, Robert Whyte’s 1847 Famine Ship Diary: the journey of an Irish coffin ship (1994) Asenath Nicholson, Annals of the Famine in Ireland (1851/1998) (at Avenue)
Secondary Sources Jill Bender, ‘The Imperial Politics of Famine: The 1873-74 Bengal Famine and Irish Parliamentary Nationalism’, Éire-Ireland (Spring/Summer 2007), vol.42, nos. 1 & 2, pp.132-56 John Bohstedt, The Politics of Provisions: Food Riots, Moral Economy, and Market Transition in England, c. 1550-1850 (Surrey, UK, 2010) John Bohstedt, Riots and Community Politics in England and Wales, 1790-1810 (Cambridge, Mass., 1983) Alan Booth, ‘Food Riots in the North-West of England 1790-1801’, Past & Present, 77, no. 1 (Nov. 1977), 84-107 Cynthia A. Bouton, The Flour War: Gender, Class, and Community in Late Ancien Régime French Society (University Park, PA, 1993) Nick Cullather, The Hungry World: America’s Cold War Battle Against Poverty in Asia (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2010). James Donnelly, The Great Irish Potato Famine (2001) Laurence Geary, ‘Epidemic Diseases of the Great Famine’, History Ireland, spring 1996, vol.4, no.1, pp.27-32 Katherine A. Grandjean, ‘New World Tempests: Environment, Scarcity, and the Coming of the Pequot War’, William and Mary Quarterly, 3d series, 68, no. 1 (January 2011): 75-100. Peter Gray, ‘Punch and the Great Famine’, History Ireland, summer 1993, vol.1, no.2, pp.26-33 Peter Gray, ‘The triumph of dogma: ideology and Famine relief,’ History Ireland, summer 1995, vol.13, no.2, pp.26-34 Peter Gray, Famine, Land and Politics: the British Government and Irish Society, 1843-1850 (1999) (at Avenue) Peter Gray, The Irish Famine (1995) (at Avenue) Dirk Hoerder. Crowd Action in Revolutionary Massachusetts, 1765-1780. New York: Academic Press, 1977. F 67 B.F. Harvey Living and Dying in England 1100-1540: the Monastic Experience (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1993) pp. 7-33 (Chapter 1, Charity) W.C. Jordan The Great Famine: Northern Europe in the Early Fourteenth Century (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1996) Ian Kershaw, ‘The Great Famine and Agrarian Crisis in England 1315-1322’ Past and Present 59: 1 (1973) pp. 3-50
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Christine Kinealy, ‘Beyond Revisionism: reassessing the Great Irish Famine’, History Ireland, winter 1995, vol.3, no.4, pp.28034 Christine Kinealy, ‘Food Imports from Ireland 1846-47’, History Ireland, spring 1997, no.1, pp.32-36 Christine Kinealy, This Great Calamity: The Irish Famine, 1845-1852 (1994) (at Avenue) Christine Kinealy, The Great Irish Famine: Impact, Ideology and Rebellion (2002) (at Avenue) Christine Kinealy, A death-dealing famine: the great hunger in Ireland (1997) (at Avenue) Cormac O’Grada, Black ’47 and Beyond: The Great Irish Famine in History, Economics and Memory (1999) (at Avenue) Cathal Póirtéir, The Great Irish Famine (1995) (at Avenue) J.D. Post Food shortage, climatic variability, and epidemic disease in pre-industrial Europe: the mortality peak in the early 1740s (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1985) Laura Rodríguez, ‘The Spanish Riots of 1766’, Past & Present, 59 (May 1973), 117- 46 P.R. Schofield, ‘Medieval diet and demography’ in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T. Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, pp. 239-53 Louise A. Tilly, ‘The Food Riot as a Form of Political Conflict in France’, Journal of Interdisciplinary History, 2, no. 1 (Summer 1971), 23-57 James Vernon, Hunger: A Modern History (Cambridge, Mass., 2007), John Walton and David Seddon, Free Markets & Food Riots: The Politics of Global Adjustment (Cambridge, Mass., 1994) Andy Wood, Riot, Rebellion and Popular Politics in Early Modern England (Hampshire, UK, 2002)
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Week 4 (week beginning 19 October 2015). Food Grammar and Feasting (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar)
The first of this week’s themes, food grammar, offers historians a technique for analysing the ensemble of the meal, what foods go together and the sequences in which services appear, which in turn allow us to distinguish patterns based on status and nationality. We can see when meals were eaten, the patterns within the week and season, and those occasions when there might be special meals, feasts. At the same time we can look for patterns of commensality, for communal eating: when are guests present, what do they eat – and who eats together. Alongside this, we can examine the use of food as a gift and as a form of charity, as food alms.
For all to read for discussion in class: M. Douglas, ‘Deciphering a meal’ in C. Counihan and P. Van Esterik (eds.) Food and culture: a reader, pp. 36-54 [Blackboard] Bonnie Huskins, ‘From Haute Cuisine to Ox Roasts: Public Feasting and the Negotiation of Class in Mid-19th-Century Saint John and Halifax’, Labour/Le Travail, 37 (1996): 9-36 [Available online: https://journals.lib.unb.ca/index.php/LLT/article/view/5022/5891] Michael A. LaCombe Political Gastronomy: Food and Authority in the English Atlantic World (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2012), 135-67 [Available electronically]. G. Rosser, ‘Going to the fraternity feast: commensality and social relations in late medieval England’ Journal of British Studies 33 (1994) pp. 430-46
Documents: individual medieval feasts Dame Katherine de Norwich: feast for the anniversary of her second husband, 20 January 1337 (copies of translation supplied, from C.M. Woolgar (ed.) Household accounts from medieval England (2 vols., British Academy, Records of Social and Economic History, new series, 17-18; 1992-3) i, pp. 204-5) Menu for the feast after Smithfield jousts, for the men of Hainault and Frenchmen, temp. Henry IV (1399-1413) (copies supplied) John Russell’s Boke of Nurture: a specimen menu from the mid to late fifteenth century, for a meat day in an elite household (copies supplied)
Documents: images of meals in progress Luttrell Psalter (reproduced in C.M.Woolgar The great household in late medieval England, pp. 138-9 William Brooke, tenth Lord Cobham, with his family, 1567 (reproduced in S. Paston- Williams The art of dining: a history of cooking and eating (London: National Trust, 1993) p. 135) Gerrit Houckgeest: Charles I, Queen Henrietta Maria, and Charles, Prince of Wales dining in public, mid-1630s (reproduced in C. Lloyd Enchanting the eye: Dutch paintings of the Golden Age (London: Royal Collection Enterprises Ltd, 2004) pp. 83-5 William Verelst: The Gough family, 1741 (reproduced in Manners and morals: Hogarth and British painting 1700-1760 (London: Tate Gallery, 1987) pp. 124- 5) William Hogarth: An election entertainment, 1754-5 (reproduced in Manners and morals, pp. 210-11)
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Further reading Meals, their structure and timing J.-L. Flandrin, Arranging the meal: a history of table service in France, trans. B. Fink (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2007) GT 2853.F7 FLA J. Beresford (ed.) The diary of a country parson: James Woodforde (5 vols., Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1968), and selections published in various editions M. Jones Feast: why humans share food (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2007) GT 2850 JON R. Latham and W. Matthews (eds.) The diary of Samuel Pepys (11 vols., London: Bell and Sons, 1971; reprinted by Harper Collins, 1995): a great many references to food, with summary in volume 10, the companion to the diary, pp. 143-9 A. Palmer Movable feasts: a reconnaissance of the origins and consequences of fluctuations in meal-times with special attention to the introduction of luncheon and afternoon tea (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1984; first published 1952) C.M. Woolgar The great household in late medieval England (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 1999) pp. 82-165 DA 185 WOO
Feasts, gifts of food and food alms/food aid Kristin L. Ahlberg, “‘Machiavelli with a Heart’: The Johnson Administration’s Food for Peace Program in India, 1965-1966,” Diplomatic History, vol. 31, no. 4 (September 2007): 665-701. Kristin L. Ahlberg, Transplanting the Great Society: Lyndon Johnson and Food for Peace (Columbia, MO: University of Missouri Press, 2008) (available online via WebCat) Amy Bentley, “Island of Serenity: Gender, Race, and Ordered Meals During World War II,” Food and Foodways, 6, no. 2 (1996): 131-56. Jean Birrell, ‘Peasants eating and drinking’, Agricultural History Review 63 (2015) pp. 1-18 Nick Cullather, ‘The Foreign Policy of the Calorie’, American Historical Review, 112, no. 2 (2007): 337-64. N. Zemon Davis The gift in sixteenth-century France (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2000) GT 3041.F8 DAV S. Dixon-Smith, ‘The image and reality of alms-giving in the great halls of Henry III’, Journal of the British Archaeological Association 152 (1999) pp. 79-96 P.W. Hammond Food and feast in medieval England (Far Thrupp: Alan Sutton, 1993) GT 2853.G7 HAM F. Heal Hospitality in early modern England (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1990) DA 301 HEA Felicity Heal, ‘Food gifts, the household and the politics of exchange in early modern England’ Past and Present 199 (May 2008) pp. 41-70 L. Kjær, ‘Food, drink and ritualised communication in the household of Eleanor de Montfort, Feburary to August 1265’, Journal of Medieval History 37 (2011) pp. 75-89 H.Johnstone, ‘Poor-relief in the royal households of thirteenth-century England’, Speculum 4 (1929) pp. 149-67 H. Magennis Anglo-Saxon appetites: food and drink and their consumption in Old English and related literature (Dublin: Four Courts, 1999)
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Marcel Mauss, The Gift: The Form and Reason for Exchange in Archaic Societies (London: Routledge, 1990) Seth Mallios, The Deadly Politics of Giving: Exchange and Violence at Ajacan, Roanoke, and Jamestown (Tuscaloosa: University of Alabama Press, 2006), ch. 2 S. Pollington The mead hall: the feasting tradition in Anglo-Saxon England (Hockwold-cum-Wilton: Anglo-Saxon Books, 2003) Alexander Poster, “The Gentle War: Famine Relief, Politics, and Privatization in Ethiopia, 1983-1986,” Diplomatic History, vol. 36, no. 2 (April 2012): 399-425. J. Spours Cakes and ale: the golden age of British feasting (Kew: National Archives, 2006) R. Strong Feast: a history of grand eating (London: Pimlico, 2002) TX 360.G7 STR C.M. Woolgar, ‘Fast and feast: conspicuous consumption and the diet of the nobility in the fifteenth century’ in M. Hicks (ed.) Revolution and consumption in late medieval England (Woodbridge: Boydell Press, 2001) pp. 7-25 C.M. Woolgar, ‘Gifts of food in late medieval England’ Journal of Medieval History 27 (2011) pp. 6-18
Household accounts, setting out food provision and consumption: E. Berry, ‘A household account book of Thomas Wharton, 5th Baron Wharton (1648- 1715)’ Records of Buckinghamshire 36 (1994) pp. 86-97 T. Gray (ed.) Devon household accounts, 1627-59, Part I, Sir Richard and Lady Lucy Reynell of Forde (and others) (Devon and Cornwall Record Society, new series, 38; 1995) T. Gray (ed.) Devon household accounts, 1627-59, Part II, Henry, fifth Earl of Bath, and Rachel, Countess of Bath, 1637-55) (Devon and Cornwall Record Society, new series, 39; 1996) R.A. Griffiths (ed.) The household book (1510-1551) of Sir Edward Don: an Anglo- Welsh knight and his circle (Buckinghamshire Record Society, 33; 2004) C.I. Hammer, ‘A hearty meal? The prison diets of Cranmer and Latimer’ Sixteenth Century Journal 30 (1999) pp. 653-80 R. Scott-Moncrieff (ed.) The household book of Lady Grisell Baillie, 1692-1733 (Edinburgh: Scottish History Society, new series, 1; 1911) J.C. Ward (ed.) Women of the English nobility and gentry 1066-1500 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1995) pp. 157-89, also as an e-book at www.medievalsources.co.uk
Buildings (kitchens, halls, dining rooms, banqueting houses): N. Cooper Houses of the gentry 1480-1680 (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 1999), especially chapter 8, ‘The rooms of the house’, pp. 273-322 NA 7328 COO M. Girouard Life in the English country house: a social and architectural history (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 1978) NA 968 GIR S. Thurley The royal palaces of Tudor England: architecture and court life 1460-1547 (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 1993) quarto DA 315 THU H. Colvin The history of the King’s works (6 vols., London: HMSO, 1963-73): a survey of royal building from the medieval period to 1851, property by property and with themed chapters N. Elias The court society (Oxford: Blackwell, 1983) chapter 3, ‘The structure of dwellings as an indicator of social structure’
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A. Emery Greater medieval houses of England and Wales 1300-1500 (3 vols., Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996-2006): a vast survey, house by house, but with sections on general trends J. Grenville Medieval housing (London and Washington: Leicester University Press, 1997) E. Roberts Hampshire houses 1250-1700: their dating and development (Winchester: Hampshire County Council, 2003) J. Thirsk Food in early modern England: phases, fads and fashions 1500-1760, pp. 108-110 M. Wood The English mediaeval house (London: J.M.Dent and Sons, 1965) C.M. Woolgar The great household in late medieval England, pp. 46-82, 136-65
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Week 5 (week Beginning 26 October 2015): The Virtue of Choice (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar)
To Do: Sign up for one of the two archive visit slots next week (in class)
There are many reasons why we choose particular foodstuffs: availability, healthy eating, personal preference and taste. Religion has also been a key driver in what might be eaten - and particular faiths have developed rules aimed at the complete avoidance of some foods on the one hand, and on the other, the avoidance of others at particular times of the year. This week’s readings focus on the connections between fish and religion, and between fasting, sexuality, and vegetarianism.
For all to read for discussion in class: J.H. Barrett, A.M. Locker and C.M. Roberts, ‘“Dark Age economics” revisited: the English fishbone evidence A.D. 600-1600’, Antiquity 78 (2004) pp. 618-36 Caroline Walker Bynum Holy feast and holy fast: the religious significance of food to medieval women (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1987), 1-9, ch. 3 [Available electronically]. D. Serjeantson and C.M. Woolgar, ‘Fish consumption in medieval England’ in C.M. Woolgar, D. Serjeantson and T.Waldron (eds.) Food in medieval England: diet and nutrition, pp. 102-30 [Available electronically] Adam D. Shprintzen, The Vegetarian Crusade: The Rise of an American Reform Movement, 1817-1921 (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2013), Ch. 3 [Available through Blackboard] J.Thirsk Food in early modern England: phases, fads, fashions 1500-1760, pp. 265- 70 [Blackboard]
Documents Household accounts of God’s House Hospital, Southampton, 1328 [On Blackboard]
Recommended Reading K.Albala Eating right in the Renaissance (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 2002) TX 641 ALB
Fish and fasting Lynn Ceci, “Fish Fertilizer: A Native American Practice?” Science, 188 (1975), pp. 26-30 C.K. Currie, ‘The early history of the carp and its economic significance in England’ Agricultural History Review 39 (1991) pp. 97-107 Joan Jacobs Brumberg, Fasting Girls: The History of Anorexia Nervosa (New York: Random House, 2000). V.E. Grimm From feasting to fasting, the evolution of a sin: attitudes to food in Late Antiquity (London: Routledge, 1996) BS 680.F6 GRI M. Kurlansky Cod: a biography of the fish that changed the world (London: Jonathan Cape, 1998) A. Locker The role of stored fish in England 900-1750 A.D.; the evidence from historical and archaeological data (Sofia, 2001)
Vegetarianism Primary Sources
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E.M. Cowan, Fast Day and Vegetarian Cookery (1895) Charles W. Forward, Practical Vegetarian Recipes as used in the Principal Vegetarian Restaurants in London and the Provinces (1891) Sylvester Graham, A Treatise on Bread and Bread-Making (Boston: Light & Stearns, 1837), available on Google Books: https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=JkIPAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&so urce=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false Mary Pope, Novel Dishes for Vegetarian Households: a complete and trustworthy guide to vegetarian cookery (1893) John Smith [of Malton], Vegetable Cookery; including a complete set of recipes for pastry, preserving, pickling, the preparation of sauces, soups, beverages (1860)
Secondary Sources James Gregory, Of Victorians and Vegetarians: The Vegetarian Movement in Nineteenth-Century Britain (2007) (online via WebCat) Colin Spencer, The Heretic’s Feast: a history of Vegetarianism (1995) (at Avenue) Kyla Wazana Tompkins, Racial Indigestion: Eating Bodies in the 19th Century (New York: New York University Press, 2012), ch. 2.
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Week 6 (Week Beginning 2 November 2015): Special Collections visit (Karen Robson and Chris Woolgar)
If you have not already done so, you should at this point in the semester get in touch with Rachel or Chris and make an appointment (or come see us in office hours) to discuss your final essay.
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Week 7 (week beginning 9 November 2015): Health and Diet (Joan Tumblety)
‘Diet, naturism and the life reform movement, c. 1880-1940’
As you now know, vegetarianism – or the abstention from eating animal flesh – has a long history. But social and cultural changes in the 19th century gave the practice new meaning. By the turn of the 20th century we can identify a healthy living craze in which a lo-meat if not no-meat diet played an integral part. It spanned countries and continents, from Britain and continental Europe to Australia and the USA. This was a genuinely transnational impulse in which medical professionals, entrepreneurs of various kinds and the popular press seemed to agree on the importance of producing ‘a healthy mind in a healthy body’. Alongside a focus on diet, it encompassed calls for dress reform and physical exercise, a fixation on beauty and youth, and the endorsement of such natural therapies as sunshine, water and the open air as a form of preventative medicine. The proponents of this ‘naturism’ or ‘life reform movement’, as it was often called, usually prescribed a combination of such elements to achieve perfect health. As the most famous French vegetarian in this era, Dr Paul Carton, once put it, ‘one digests with one’s legs’. The tendency gathered momentum after the First World War, when it was underpinned by the rise of grassroots sporting practice, an expansion of leisure activities and the medicalization of popular culture.
In this seminar, we examine some of the textual and visual materials created within this field as well as scholarship drawn from the French, British, German, and North American contexts. What constituted ‘healthy’ eating for these so-called naturists, and how does their attitude to meat eating compare with earlier variants of vegetarianism? How far was their investment in the healthy body an index of a growing concern with individual happiness, and how far with the fate of the collective? Why should the same concerns emerge in so many disparate places at more or less the same time, and how far can we discern different national inflections? Did the life reform movement have a ‘politics’? Our primary source selection will draw principally on French and British examples, and our task is both to decode them and to situate them in the wider transnational framework suggested by the secondary literature.
For all to read for discussion in class: Hau, Michael, ‘Gender and aesthetic norms in popular hygienic culture in Germany from 1900 to 1914’, Social History of Medicine, vol. 12, no. 2, 1999, 271-92 (e-journal through Webcat) Ouédraogo, Arouna P., ‘Food and the purification of society: Dr Paul Carton and vegetarianism in interwar France’, Social History of Medicine, 14, 2, 2001, 223-46 (e-journal through Webcat) Whorton, James C. ‘Muscular vegetarianism’, in Crusaders for fitness: the history of American health reformers, (Princeton University Press, 1982), pp. 202-238 (Blackboard) Zweiniger-Bargielowska, Ina, ‘The Culture of the abdomen: obesity and reducing in Britain, circa 1900-1939’, Journal of British Studies, 44, 2005, 239-273 (e-journal through Webcat)
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Required Documents: 1. Health and diet sources hand-out (Blackboard), including: o Selection of advertisements for food, mineral waters and nutritional supplements from the interwar French and British press o James-Edward Ruffier, Soyons forts! (Paris: Physis, 1930) Selected illustrations that accompany this light-hearted get-fit guide o Pierre Marie, Force et santé, (Paris, 1929) Illustration from a bodybuilding manual 2. Dr Paul Carton, Simple vegetarian cookery, trans. Elizabeth Lucas (London, Bombay, Sydney: George G. Harrap & Co. Ltd, 1931) (Blackboard) Translator’s note, preface, contents list, Ch. 1 ‘A wholesome dietary the chief factor in good health’, Ch. 2 ‘Unwholesome foods’, pp. 5-39
Recommended reading Primary sources Alcott, Dr William A., Vegetable diet: as sanctioned by medical men, and by experience in all ages, including a system of vegetable cookery, (New York: Fowler and Wells, 1859) www.gutenberg.org/ Barué, Sulpice, Domestic French Cookery, trans. Miss Leslie, (Philadelphia: Carey & Hart, 1836) www.gutenberg.org/ Brown, Margaret, French cookery book, (Washington D.C.: Rufus H. Darby, 1886) www.gutenberg.org/ Carton, Paul, Simple vegetarian cookery, (1931) (tutor copy) Dumas on Food: Recipes and Anecdotes from the Classic Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine, trans. Alan and Jane Davidson (Oxford and New York: Oxford University Press, 1987) Durville, Dr Gaston, La Cure naturiste: pour entretenir sa vigueur et se guérir sans médicaments, (Paris : Editions de « Naturisme », 1936) Kellogg, Mrs. E. E., Science in the Kitchen: a scientific treatise on food substances and their dietetic properties, together with a practical explanation of the principles of healthful cookery, and a large number of original, palatable, and wholesome recipes, (1893) www.gutenberg.org/ Lessing, Charlotte (ed.), Ragtime to wartime: the best of Good Housekeeping, 1922- 1939, (Ebury Press, n.d.) Moore, Cora, Twenty-four little French dinners and how to cook and serve them, (New York: E.P. Dutton & Company, 1919) www.gutenberg.org/ Robinson, J.H., M.D., A practical treatise on the diet, &c. of weakly subjects: from age, intemperance, residence in a tropical climate, or original structure, etc. etc. (London: S. Highley, Medical Bookseller, 1829) 19th-century microfiche in Hartley Rouet, Marcel, La Vie recommence à 40 ans, (Paris: Editions Médicis, 1964), Ch. VIII, ‘L’Alimentation scientifique revitalisante’, pp. 169-186 (French language, tutor copy)
Rouet, Marcel, Toute la culture physique: nouvelle méthode franco-américaine complète, (Paris : Amiot-Dumont, 1951), Part 5, ‘L’Alimentation culturiste’, pp. 353-418, including recipes for ‘body-building cocktails’ (French language, tutor copy)
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Salt, Henry S., The Logic of vegetarianism: essays and dialogues, (London: George Bell and Sons, 1906) www.gutenberg.org/ Shelley, Percy Bysshe, A Vindication of natural diet, new edition, (London: F. Pitman, 1884 [orig. 1813]) www.gutenberg.org/ Weaver, James, A practical treatise on the cure of pulmonary consumption with medicinal, dietetic and hygienic remedies, (London: J. & A. Churchill, 1887). 19th-century microfiche
Secondary sources Histories of vegetarianism, diet and health Berridge, V. and M. Gorsky (eds.), Environment, Health and History, (Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, 2012) Floud, Roderick et al, The changing body: health, nutrition, and human development in the western world since 1700, (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2011) (e-book through Web Cat) Gregory, James, Of Victorians and vegetarians: the vegetarian movement in nineteenth- century Britain, (London: Tauris, 2007) Meyer-Renschhausen, E.,and A. Wirz, ‘Dietetics, Health Reform and Social Order: Vegetarianism as a Moral Physiology. The Example of Maximilian Bircher- Benner (1867-1939)‘, Medical History, 1999, 43: 323-341 Nissenbaum, Stephen. Sex, Diet, and Debility in Jacksonian America: Sylvester Graham and Health Reform. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1980. Adam D. Shprintzen, The Vegetarian Crusade: The Rise of an American Reform Movement, 1817-1921 (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2013). Schwartz, Hillel, Never satisfied: a cultural history of diets, fantasies and fat, (New York: Free Press, 1986) Stuart, Tristram, The Bloodless Revolution: a cultural history of vegetarianism from 1600 to modern times, (New York: W.W. Norton, 2006) (tutor copy) Vertinsky, Patricia, ‘“Weighs and Means”: Examining the Surveillance of Fat Bodies through Physical Education Practices in North America in the Late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries’, Journal of Social History, vol. 35, no. 3, 2008
Histories of the body Carden-Coyne, Anna Alexandra, ‘Classical heroism and modern life: bodybuilding and masculinity in the early twentieth century’, Journal of Australian Studies, 63, 2000, 138-49 Forth, C.E., ‘Fat, Desire and Disgust in the Colonial Imagination’, History Workshop Journal , Issue 73, 2012 Forth, Christopher E., Masculinity in the modern west: gender, civilisation and the body, (Basingstoke, 2008) Forth, Christopher, The Dreyfus affair and the crisis of French manhood, (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2004) Gilman, Sander L., Health and illness: images of difference, (London: Reaktion, 1995) Gilman, Sander L., Obesity, (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010) (tutor copy) Gilman, Sander L., The Jew's body, (New York: Routledge, 1991) Stearns, Peter N., Fat history: bodies and beauty in the modern West, (New York, London: New York University Press, 1997)
Histories of medicine and eugenics
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Adams, Mark B. (ed.), The Wellborn science: eugenics in Germany, France, Brazil, and Russia, (Oxford: OUP, 1990) Borsay, Anne, ‘An Example of Political Arithmetic: The Evaluation of Spa Therapy at the Georgian Bath Infirmary, 1742-1830’, Medical History, 2000, 45: 149-172 Browne, Janet, ‘Spas and sensibilities: Darwin at Malvern’, Medical History, Supplement no. 10, 1990, pp. 102-113 Cantor, David, ‘The contradictions of specialisation: rheumatism and the decline of the spa in interwar Britain’, Medical History, Supplement No. 10, 1990, pp. 127-144. Hau, M., ‘The Holistic Gaze in German Medicine, 1890-1930’, Bulletin of the History of Medicine, vol 74, issue 4, 2000, pp. 495-524 Jamieson, Annie, ‘More Than Meets the Eye: Revealing the Therapeutic Potential of ‘Light’, 1896–1910’, Social History of Medicine Vol. 26, No. 4, 2013, pp. 715– 737 Lawrence, Christopher and George Weisz (eds.), Greater than the parts: holism in biomedicine, 1920-1950 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1998) Marland, H., and J. Adams, ‘Hydropathy at Home: The Water Cure and Domestic Healing in Mid-Nineteenth-Century Britain’, Bulletin of the History of Medicine, Volume 83, Number 3, Fall 2009, pp. 499-529 Pettit, M., ‘Becoming Glandular: Endocrinology, Mass Culture, and Experimental Lives in the Interwar Age’, American Historical Review, October 2013 Williams, Elizabeth A., ‘Stomach and Psyche: Eating, Digestion, and Mental Illness in the Medicine of Philippe Pinel’, Bulletin of the History of Medicine, Volume 84, Number 3, Fall 2010, pp. 358-386
Life reform movement Adams, Jane, Healing with water: English spas and the water cure, 1840-1960, (Manchester: MUP, 2015) (tutor copy) Harp, Stephen L., ‘Demanding vacation au naturel: European nudism and post-war municipal development on the French Riviera’, Journal of Modern History, vol. 83, no. 3, 2011, 513-543 Harp, Steven L., Au Naturel: naturism, nudism, and tourism in twentieth-century France, (Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press, 2014) (tutor copy) Hau, Michael, The Cult of health and beauty in Germany: a social history, 1890-1930, (Chicago, 2003) Peeters, Evert, ‘Authenticity and Asceticism: Discourse and Performance in Nude Culture and Health Reform in Belgium, 1920-1940’, Journal of the History of Sexuality, Volume 15, No. 3, July 2006, pp. 432-461 Sonn, Richard, Sex, violence and the avant-garde: anarchism in interwar France, (Pennsylvania, 2010) (tutor copy) Stewart, Mary Lynn, For health and beauty: physical culture for Frenchwomen, 1880s- 1930s, (Baltimore, 2001) Tumblety, Joan, Remaking the male body: masculinity and the uses of physical culture in interwar and Vichy France, (Oxford: OUP, 2012), Ch. 1, ‘Physical culturists, masculine ideals and social hygiene in interwar France’. Whorton, James C., Crusaders for fitness: the history of American health reformers, (Princeton, 1982) (tutor copy) Zweiniger-Bargielowska, Ina, ‘Raising a nation of ‘good animals’: the New Health Society and health education campaigns in interwar Britain’, Social History of Medicine, vol. 20, no. 1, 2007, 73-89
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Zweiniger-Bargielowska, Ina, Managing the body: beauty, health, and fitness in Britain, 1880-1939, (Oxford, 2010) (tutor copy)
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Week 8 (week beginning 16 November 2015): Sugar, Spice and the Not-So-Nice (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar)
The medieval passion for spices had its origins in the foods of the eastern Mediterranean, which were to appear in southern Europe before the end of the first millennium. Sugar was also grown in the Near East at this time, principally for medical purposes, but as its cultivation spread to the islands of the Mediterranean and onwards to southern Spain and the islands of the Atlantic, society became hooked on its sweetness as a food. Spices were foodstuffs of great value, which even in the medieval period travelled half way round the world. The quest for these goods sparked the global exploration in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. In discovering that they could produce sugar in the Caribbean, Spanish and English colonists accelerated the demand for enslaved African labour, creating a system that required disposable black bodies to accommodate the increasingly sweet tastes of Europe’s elite and, eventually, its working classes.
For all to read for discussion in class: Brian Cowan, ‘The Rise of the Coffeehouse Reconsidered’, Historical Journal, 41:1 (2004): 21-46 P. Freedman Out of the East: spices and the medieval imagination (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2008) pp. 19-49 (Chapter 1, Spices and Medieval Cuisine) TX 406 BRO [Blackboard] Sidney Mintz, Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History (New York: Penguin, 1986 [1985]), 19-73. (Digitised and available through the Avenue Course Collection under the title “production”) Marcy Norton, Sacred Gifts, Profane Pleasures: A History of Tobacco and Chocolate in the Atlantic World (Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 2008), 1-12 [Available through Blackboard]
Documents Spices used at the annual feasts of the Guild of the Holy Cross, Stratford upon Avon, in the fifteenth century (on Blackboard) Extract (translated) from the account of the apothecary of the Count of Savoy, 1338- 1342 (on Blackboard)
Recommended Reading Flavourings and Spices A. Dalby, Dangerous tastes: the story of spices (London: British Museum, 2000) Sidney Mintz, Sweetness and power: the place of sugar in modern history (NY and Harmondsworth:Viking Penguin, 1986; 1st edn., 1985) Sidney Mintz, ‘Time, sugar, and sweetness’ in C. Counihan and P. Van Esterik (eds.) Food and culture: a reader, pp. 357-69 R. Newhauser, ‘John Gower’s sweet tooth’, Review of English Studies, new series, 64 (2013), pp. 752-69 P. Spufford Power and profit: the merchant in medieval Europe (London: Thames and Hudson, 2002) pp. 60-139, 286-316
Slavery and Colonisation Ira Berlin, Many Thousands Gone: The First Two Centuries of Slavery in North America (Cambridge, MA: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 1998).
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Anne L. Bower, ed., African American Foodways: Explorations of History and Culture (Urbana: IL: University of Illinois Press, 2007). Judith A. Carney, Black Rice: The African Origins of Rice Cultivation in the Americas (Harvard University Press, 2001). Judith A. Carney and Richard Nicolas Rosomoff, In the Shadow of Slavery: Africa’s Botanical Legacy in the Atlantic World (Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 2009). William Cronon, Changes in the Land: Indians, Colonists, and the Ecology of New England (New York: Hill and Wang, 1983). Alfred W. Crosby, Jr., The Columbian Exchange: Biological and Cultural Consequences of 1492 (Westport and Connecticut: Greenwood Press, 1972). Alfred W. Crosby, Jr., Ecological Imperialism: The Biological Expansion of Europe, 900-1900 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1986). Philip D. Morgan, Slave Counterpoint: Black Culture in the Eighteenth-Century Chesapeake and Lowcountry (Chapel Hill & London: University of North Carolina Press, 1998). Roy Moxham, Tea: addiction, exploitation and empire (2003) (online via WebCat) D. Richardson, ‘The slave trade, sugar and British economic growth, 1748-1776’, Journal of Interdisciplinary History (1987), vol.17, no.4, pp.739-70 Woodruff D. Smith, ‘Complications of the commonplace: Tea, sugar and imperialism’, Journal of Interdisciplinary History (1992), vol.23, no.2, pp.259- 78 John C. Super, Food, Conquest, and Colonization in Sixteenth-Century Spanish America (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1988). Kyla Wazana Tompkins, Racial Indigestion: Eating Bodies in the 19th Century (New York: New York University Press, 2012) Psyche A. Williams-Forson, Building Houses out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food, & Power (Chapel Hill, NC: The University of North Carolina Press, 2006)
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Week 9 (week beginning 23 November 2015): Contact and Cannibalism (Rachel Herrmann)
At various points in history, people also became food. Although for some time anthropologists expended a great deal of energy debating whether or not cannibalism occurred, historians have begun to ask why people at the time cared so much about cannibalism tales in the first place. Cannibalism was a trope that appeared regularly in early narratives of exploration and conquest; fears of cannibalism or stories about it were bandied about when two different cultures came into contact.
For all to read for discussion in class: Rebecca Earle, “‘If You Eat Their Food...’: Diets and Bodies in Early Colonial Spanish America,” American Historical Review, 115, no. 3 (June 2010): 688- 713. [TDNet] Rachel B. Herrmann, “The ‘tragicall historie’: Cannibalism and Abundance in Colonial Jamestown,” William and Mary Quarterly, 3d series, 68, no. 1 (January 2011): 47-74. [JSTOR] Michael A. LaCombe, “‘A continuall and dayly Table for Gentlemen of fashion’: Humanism, Food, and Authority at Jamestown, 1607-1609,” American Historical Review, 115, no. 3 (June 2010): 669-87. [TDNet] Richard Sugg,“‘Good Physic But Bad Food’: Early Modern Attitudes to Medicinal Cannibalism and Its Suppliers,” Social History of Medicine 19, 2 (2006): 225- 240 [TDNet] Coll Thrush, “Vancouver the Cannibal: Cuisine, Encounter, and the Dilemma of Difference on the Northwest Coast, 1774-1808,” Ethnohistory, 58, no. 1 (December 2011): 1-35. [Blackboard]
Recommended Reading Primary Sources Philip L. Barbour, The Jamestown Voyages, vol. 1-2. G 149 Warren M. Billings, ed., The Old Dominion in the Seventeenth Century: A Documentary History of Virginia, 1606-1689 (Chapel Hill: The University of North Carolina Press, 1975). F 229 Thomas Hariot, A Briefe and true report of the new found land of Virginia (Charlottesville: Published for the Library at the Mariners' Museum by the University of Virginia Press, 2007). James Horn, ed., Captain John Smith: Writings with Other Narratives of Roanoke, Jamestown, and the First English Settlement of America (New York: Library of America, 2007). Karen Ordahl Kupperman, ed., Captain John Smith: A Select Edition of His Writings (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1988). John Mandeville, The Travels of Sir John Mandeville, trans. C. W. R. D. Moseley, (Penguin Books, 1983 [c. 1356-1366]). PR 2052 (on short loan at Avenue) William Strachey, For the Colony in Virginea Britannia. Lawes Divine, Morall and Martiall, &c (Theatrvm Orbis Terrarvm Ltd., 1972 [Printed at London for Walter Burre, 1612]). John Smith, The Complete Works of Captain John Smith (1580-1631) in three volumes, ed. Philip L. Barbour (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1986). F 229 SMI
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Lyon Gardiner Tyler, ed., Narratives of Early Virginia, 1606-1625 (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1907). Virginia Council, A True declaration of the estate of the colonie in Virginia, with a confutation of such scandalous reports as have tended to the disgrace of so worthy an enterprise (London: Printed for W. Barett, 1610).
Secondary Sources Thomas S. Abler, “Iroquois Cannibalism: Fact Not Fiction.” Ethnohistory 27, 4 (1980): pp. 309-16. Robert Appelbaum, Aguecheek’s Beef, Belch’s Hiccup, and Other Gastronomic Interjections: Literature, Culture, and Food Among the Early Moderns (Chicago and London: The University of Chicago Press, 2006), 239-286. Available online via WebCat Robert Appelbaum, “Hunger in Early Virginia: Indians and English Facing Off over Excess, Want, and Need,” in Robert Appelbaum and John Wood Sweet, eds., Envisioning an English Empire: Jamestown and the Making of the North Atlantic World (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2005), 195- 216. Catherine Armstrong, “ ‘Boiled and Stewed with Roots and Herbs’: Everyday Tales of Cannibalism in Early Modern Virginia,” in Angela McShane and Garthine Walker, eds., The Extraordinary and the Everyday in Early Modern England (Palgrave Macmillian, 2010), 161-76. DA 380 CAP (on short loan at Avenue) W. Arens, The Man-Eating Myth: Anthropology & Anthropophagy (New York: Oxford University Press, 1979). Catalin Avramescu and Alistair Ian Blyth, An Intellectual History of Cannibalism (Princeton University Press, 2011). Francis Barker, Peter Hulme, and Margaret Iversen, Cannibalism and the Colonial World (Cambridge University Press, 1998). Heather Blurton, Cannibalism in High Medieval English Literature (Palgrave Macmillan, 2007). Carville V. Earle, “Environment, Disease, and Mortality in Early Virginia,” in Thad W. Tate and David L. Ammerman, eds., The Chesapeake in the Seventeenth Century: Essays on Anglo-American Society (Published for the Institute of Early American History and Culture by the University of North Carolina Press, 1979), 96-125. F 187.C5 TAT (on short loan at Avenue) J. Frederick Fausz, “An ‘Abundance of Blood Shed on Both Sides’: England’s First Indian War, 1609-1614,” The Virginia Magazine of History and Biography, Vol. 98, No. 1 (Jan., 1990): 3-56. Felipe Fernández-Armesto, Near a Thousand Tables: A History of Food (New York: Free Press, 2004 [2002]), 21-54. TX 353 FER (on short loan at Avenue) Karen Gordon-Grube, “Evidence of Medicinal Cannibalism in Puritan New England: ‘Mummy’ and Related Remedies in Edward Taylor’s ‘Dispensatory,’” Early American Literature, Vol. 28, No. 3 (1993): 185-221. Marvin Harris, Cannibals and Kings: The Origins of Cultures (New York: Random House, 1977). GN 350 (on short loan at Avenue) Barry L. Isaac, “Cannibalism among Aztecs and Their Neighbors: Analysis of the 1577-1586 ‘Relaciones Geograficas’ for Nueva Espana and Nueva Galicia Provinces,” Journal of Anthropological Research, Vol. 58, No. 2 (Summer, 2002): 203-224.
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Frank Lestringant, Cannibals: The Discovery and Representation of the Cannibal from Columbus to Jules Verne, translated by Rosemary Morris (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1997). Dennis Montgomery, “Such a dish as powdered wife I never heard of,” Colonial Williamsburg Journal, Volume 29, Number 01 (Winter 2007): 59-61. Available online: http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/feature2.cfm Mark Nicholls, “‘Things which seame incredible’: Cannibalism in Early Jamestown,” Colonial Williamsburg Journal, Volume 29, Number 01 (Winter 2007): 52-58. Available online: http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/feature2.cfm Louise Noble, “‘And Make Two Pasties of Your Shameful Heads’: Medicinal Cannibalism and Healing the Body Politic in ‘Titus Andronicus,’” ELH, Vol. 70, No. 3 (Fall, 2003): 677-708. Louise Noble, Medicinal Cannibalism in Early Modern English Literature and Culture (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2011). Gananath Obeyesekere, Cannibal Talk: The Man-Eating Myth and Human Sacrifice in the South Seas (Berkeley and Los Angeles, California: University of California Press, 2005). Available online via WebCat Merrall Llewelyn Price, Consuming Passions: The Uses of Cannibalism in Late Medieval and Early Modern Europe (New York & London: Routledge, 2003). Alison E. Rautman and Todd W. Fenton, “A Case of Historic Cannibalism in the American West: Implications for Southwestern Archaeology,” American Antiquity, Vol. 70, No. 2 (Apr., 2005): 321-341. Richard Sugg,“‘Good Physic But Bad Food’: Early Modern Attitudes to Medicinal Cannibalism and Its Suppliers,” Social History of Medicine 19, 2 (2006): 225- 240 Reay Tannahill, Flesh and Blood: A History of the Cannibal Complex (New York: Stein and Day, 1975) 394.9 TAN Daniel H. Usner, Jr., Indians, Settlers, & Slaves in a Frontier Exchange Economy: The Lower Mississippi Valley Before 1783 (Chapel Hill: The University of North Carolina Press, 1992), 149-218 Charles Zika, “Cannibalism and Witchcraft in Early Modern Europe: Reading the Visual Images,” History Workshop Journal 44 (1997): 77-105.
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Week 10 (week beginning 2 December 2015): Consumerism and Food (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar)
Underlying this week’s theme are issues of taste and gastronomy, the notion that there were desirable and exceptional practices in cuisine. We can see the aspirations of the elite in medieval cookbooks – although these books were never in fact intended for use in the kitchen, but more as vadecums for those organising purchasing and controlling household expenditure. We do, however, have about 4000 recipes surviving from medieval England and they show us the processes employed by cooks and their interests. Some of these medieval recipes were enduringly popular: on the Continent, the Viandier of Taillevent went through at least 25 editions between 1486 and 1615. But they tell us very little about cooking practices: medieval advice books focused more on dietetics and food from a medical perspective. From this point on styles of cooking changed. We find publications in different registers: for example, French court cookery reached widely through the publications of La Varenne’s Le cuisinier françois, first published in 1651 – which tells us a good deal about cooking and the importance of preparing food in a way to make it as delicious as possible. And we also have recipe books compiled by cooks of more modest means – some of them addressed directly to women, as opposed to the elite male chefs who dominated the cooking in great households. Gastronomy was not born at this point, but it is very much easier to see its development from here onwards.
With agricultural changes in Britain and America, on-going since the 16th century but greatly speeded up by the parliamentary enclosures of land in the 18th century (in England) and westward expansion in the 19th century (in America), famine all but disappeared. Once famine decreased, the taste of food became important, and demand for cookery books increased. These were written by both men and women; indeed, women found they could make a modest living from them. Most did not make up their own recipes, but copied from others. Their main audience was middle-class women who had to do their own cooking, or servants who wanted to improve their skills, while sometimes middle-class women used these cookery books to teach their servants. As the nineteenth century drew to a close, cooking became a way to experience different parts of the world.
For all to read for discussion in class: Troy Bickham, ‘Eating the Empire: Intersections of Food, Cookery and Imperialism in Eighteenth-Century Britain’, Past & Present (2008), no.198, pp.71-109 Paul Freedman, ‘American Restaurants and Cuisine in the Mid-Nineteenth Century’, New England Quarterly, 84, no. 1 (March 2011): 5-59 Kristin L. Hoganson, Consumers’ Imperium: The Global Production of American Domesticity, 1865-1920 (Chapel Hill, NC: The University of North Carolina Press, 2007), 105-52 [Available online] Laura Shapiro, Perfection Salad: Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century (New York: Modern Library, 2001), ch. 2 [Available via Blackboard]
Documents
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Recipes from the Forme of Cury, the great cook book of the household of Richard II, and the Viandier of Taillevent (copies to be supplied)
Recommended Reading K.Albala Eating right in the Renaissance (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 2002) TX 641 ALB John A. Brett, “The Political-Economics of Developing Markets versus Satisfying Food Needs,” Food & Foodways, vol. 18, issue 1/2 (Jan-June 2010): 28-42. P. Brears Cooking and Dining in Medieval England (Blackawton: Prospect Books, 2008) M. Carlin, ‘Fast Food and Urban Living Standards in Medieval England’, in M. Carlin and J.T. Rosenthal Food and Eating in Medieval Europe (London: Hambledon, 1998) pp. 27-52 M. Carlin, ‘Putting Dinner on the Table in Medieval London’, in M. Davies and A. Prescott (eds.), London and the Kingdom: Essays in Honour of Caroline M. Barron (Donington: Shaun Tyas, 2008) pp. 58-77 Alain Drouard, ‘Chefs, Gourmets and Gourmands: French Cuisine in the 19th and 20th Centuries’ in Paul Freedman (ed.) Food: the History of Taste (London, 2007) pp. 262-99 Jackie Goode, “Feeding the Family When the Wolf’s at the Door: The Impact of Over-Indebtedness on Contemporary Foodways in Low-Income Families in the UK,” Food & Foodways, vol. 20, issue 1 (Jan-March 2012): 8-30. Terje Finstad, “Familiarizing Food: Frozen Food Chains, Technology, and Consumer Trust, Norway 1940-1970,” Food & Foodways, vol. 21, issue 1 (Jan-March 2013): 22-45. Paul R. Josephson, “The Ocean’s Hot Dog: The Development of the Fish Stick,” Technology and Culture, 49, no. 1 (2008): 41-61. Christine Knight, “‘An alliance with Mother Nature’: Natural food, health, and morality in low-carbohydrate diet books,” Food & Foodways, vol. 20, issue 2 (2012): 102-22. Harvey Levenstein, Fear of Food: A History of Why We Worry About What We Eat (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2009). Ty Matejowsky, “Fast Food and Nutritional Perceptions in the Age of ‘Globesity,’: Perspectives from the Provincial Philippines,” Food & Foodways, vol. 17, issue 1 (Jan-March 2009): 29-49. Marion Nestle, Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2002). TX 360.U6 NES (available on short loan at Avenue) Marion Nestle, Why Calories Count: From Science to Politics (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2012) (available online via WebCat) Michael Pollan, The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals (New York: The Penguin Press, 2006). GT 2853.U6 POL (available on short loan at Avenue) Elliott Shore, ‘Dining Out: the Development of the Restaurant’ in Paul Freedman (ed.) Food: the History of Taste (London, 2007) pp. 300-31 Carolyn Thomas de la Peña, Empty Pleasures: The Story of Artificial Sweeteners from Saccharin to Splenda (University of North Carolina Press, 2010): 141-75. Joan Thirsk Food in Early Modern England: Phases, Fads, Fashions 1500-1760 (London: Hambledon), pp. 11-26 (Chapter 2, The Food Scene Captured in
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Print, 1500-50) and pp. 27-58 (Chapter 3, The Widening World of Food, 1550- 1600) C.M. Woolgar The Senses in Late Medieval England (New Haven, 2006) pp. 84-116 (on the senses of the mouth)
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Week 11 (week beginning 7 December): The Southampton Symposium on Food and Cooking (Rachel Herrmann and Chris Woolgar)
Student presentations
The research presentation is a new feature this year. It has been created to encourage you to get a good start on the research for the final essay well before the Christmas holiday. It is not expected that you will have completed the essay at the time of the presentation. What IS expected is that you will be able to state A) How your essay fits into or challenges the extant historiography of your topic, B) What you think your argument will be, and C) What sources you will be using.
Presentations should be 10 minutes in length. You will receive a 2- minute warning, and will be cut off after 10 minutes. You may wish to use PowerPoint, but are not required to do so.
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Christmas Vacation 11 December 2015 – 4 January 2016
Week beginning 4 January 2016 This week is for personal revision. Tutors will be available to discuss your revision plans.
The essay is due to be submitted by 1600 hours on 7 January 2016.
Examination period: Monday 11-Saturday 23 January 2016
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Research Resources
You will find primary sources, notably books of household management and cookery books in the microfiche collection in Hartley Library.
An important collection of primary sources can also be found in the Wellcome Library’s first venture into full-text digitisation which began with the 74 seventeenth- century and earlier manuscripts from that collection of 17th century English receipt books. These contain household medicinal and culinary recipes, usually written by women: http://library.wellcome.ac.uk/etexts.html.
There is a history of the recipe book project based at the University of Warwick: http://www2.warwick.ac.uk/fac/arts/history/chm/research/recipes/.
There is also a collection of American cookbooks from the late-eighteenth to the early twentieth century that the Michigan State University has digitised as part of the Feeding America project; these are searchable by ingredient and recipe title: http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/
For examples of some of the cookery books in the 19th century microfiche collection, see: Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management (1859-61) – in the 19th century microfiche collection with a copy at Winchester School of Art library (edited and introduced by Nicola Humble) Alexis Soyer, The Gastronomic Regenerator (1846); The Modern Housewife (1850); The Pantropheon, or history of food: its preparation from the earliest ages of the world (1853) - in the 19th century microfiche collection Lady Mary Anne Barker Broome, First Lessons in the Principles of Cooking: in three parts (1886) Frederick Bishop, The Wife’s Own Cookery Book (1856) Cassell’s Book of the Household: a work of reference on domestic economy (1890) William Collins, Lessons in Domestic Economy for Elder Girls (1873) Esther Hewlett, Catechism of Domestic Economy (1851) Alexander Murray, The Domestic Oracle (1826) Mrs Henry Reeve, Cookery and Housekeeping (1882) Maria Rundell, The English Cookery book, comprising Mrs Rundell’s domestic cookery, revised: with several modern dishes added thereto, carefully selected and simplified (1856) William B. Tegetmeler, A Manual of Domestic Economy (1858)
For examples of such ‘instructional’ works aimed at specific audiences in the 19th century microfiche collection see: The home book; or, young housekeeper's assistant: forming a complete system of domestic economy, and household accounts. With estimates of expenditure, &c &c. In every department of housekeeping, founded on forty-five years personal experience (1829) Economy for the single and married; or, The young wife and bachelor's guide to income and expenditure on £50 per annum, £100 per annum, £150 per annum, £200 per annum; with estimates up to £500 per annum : Comprising also a variety of useful and original information for the single, as well as all
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subjects relating to domestic comfort and happiness, by one who "makes ends meet" (1845)
For examples of cookery books targeted at the poor see: Martha H. Gordon, Cookery for Working Men’s Wives (1888), available in the 19th century microfiche collection Peter Higginbotham, The Workhouse Cookbook (2008) - as Peter Higginbotham shows, for the destitute even into the 20th century, the diet was generally insufficient and monotonous.
For examples of ‘imperial’ cookery books: Francis R. Hogg, Practical Remarks chiefly concerning the health and ailments of European families in India, with special reference to maternal management and domestic economy (1877) The Indian cookery book: a practical handbook to the kitchen in India, adapted to the three Presidencies; containing original and approved recipes in every department of Indian cookery; recipes for summer beverages and home-made liqueurs; medicinal & other recipes; together with a variety of things worth knowing (1869) Robert Flower Riddell, The Indian Domestic Economy and Receipt Book: comprising numerous directions for plain wholesome cookery, both Oriental and English; with much miscellaneous matter answering for all general purposes of reference connected with household affairs, likely to be immediately required by families, messes, and private individuals, residing at the presidencies or out-stations (1852) Flora Annie Steel, The Complete Indian Cook and Housekeeper (1887) - the 1898 edition is available in the 19th century microfiche collection, the 1890 edition is at E-Resources. There is an entry on Steel (1847-1929) in the ODNB. There is a chapter by Susan Zlotnick on ‘domesticating imperialism: curry and cookbooks in Victorian England’ in J. Floyd & L. Foster (eds.), The Recipe Reader: Narratives – Contexts – Traditions (2003)
For examples of Victorian vegetarian cookery books: E.M. Cowan, Fast Day and Vegetarian Cookery (1895) Charles W. Forward, Practical Vegetarian Recipes as used in the Principal Vegetarian Restaurants in London and the Provinces (1891) Mary Pope, Novel Dishes for Vegetarian Households: a complete and trustworthy guide to vegetarian cookery (1893) John Smith [of Malton], Vegetable Cookery; including a complete set of recipes for pastry, preserving, pickling, the preparation of sauces, soups, beverages (1860)
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