BELGIAN COSMETICS Editor: Fabienne L’Hoost Authors: Christelle Charlier, Céline Vandermeersch, Wouter Decoster & Nicolas Preillon Graphic design and layout: OskarD COPYRIGHT © Reproduction of the text is authorised provided the source is acknowledged Date of publication: September 2016 Printed on FSC-labelled paper This publication is also available to be consulted at the website of the Belgian Foreign Trade Agency: www.abh-ace.be BELGIAN COSMETICS TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 4 CHAPTER 1 PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR 7 SECTION 1: THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY IN FIGURES 8 1 >> TURNOVER 8 2 >> COMPANIES AND JOBS 12 3 >> EXPORTS 12 SECTION 2: BELGIUM’S ADVANTAGES IN THE VALUE CHAIN 15 1 >> BELGIUM, A WORLD-CLASS CHEMICALS CLUSTER 16 2 >> BELGIUM, THE IDEAL TEST MARKET 16 3 >> BELGIUM, FOCUSED ON INNOVATION 17 4 >> BELGIUM, A STRICT REGULATORY FRAMEWORK 18 SECTION 3: STAKEHOLDERS 20 1 >> OFFICIAL ORGANISATIONS 20 2 >> COSMETICS INDUSTRY BODIES 22 CHAPTER 2 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM 25 ANHAIRCO 26 CODIBEL 28 COSMEBEL 30 ECOVER 32 EXPANSCIENCE 34 JYB COSMETICS 36 L’ORÉAL LIBRAMONT 38 MYLÈNE 40 NADINE SALEMBIER 42 OBELIS 44 PRANARÔM 46 WORLD NATURAL CARE 48 CHAPTER 3 DIRECTORY OF COMPANIES 51 INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION THE STARTING POINT - HYGIENE AND PROTECTION COSMETICS OF Health is, in the first place, the result of personal hygiene, which is achieved by using cosmetics. Personal care and EVERY STRUCTURE hygiene products, such as soap, shampoo and shower gel, are essential to modern hygiene and good health, and con- AND FRAGRANCE tribute to longevity. In today’s society, life expectancy is con- stantly breaking new records. And since soap became (SOURCE: DETIC) available to everybody, the quality of life has only improved. Illnesses due to a lack of hygiene have disappeared from western societies. Protecting the body against external influences is an essen- In a society where we constantly hear words such as tial function of many cosmetics. Although few people really ‘growth’ and ‘profit’, we sometimes forget the magical, appreciate it, toothpaste and sun cream are also cosmetic original worth of a product: its sensuality. This introduction products. An amount of toothpaste equivalent to the size of takes us back to basics. It offers a literary puff, sniff or a pea is enough to protect teeth against decay; dentists rec- smell of the feeling that cosmetics can bring, products that ommend twice-daily brushing quite rightly. Meanwhile, sun are functional and sensual, of course, but that also have an products protect us against the sun’s rays, in which we often immaterial and often very cerebral side. spend more time than is good for us. Used correctly, these products can slow down premature skin aging and, essen- “Functional products are present everywhere in our lives. tially, sunburn, a major cause of skin cancer. You clean your house with a cleaning product and mow your lawn with a mower. Functionality is straightforward. But a cosmetic has several aspects. From embellishment to hy- giene, it is the only product that promotes its users’ PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF well-being and, going beyond their senses, stimulates their COSMETICS imagination.” With these words, Yu-Ting Chen, technical and regulatory expert at DETIC, immediately sets the tone But the hygienic and protective value of cosmetics goes be- for this introduction. “A cosmetic is not simply the product yond their functional operation to the level of human psy- itself; it has many offshoots. When you buy a cosmetic, you chological health. Through their odours and textures, these feel a real sense of pleasure because you know you are ac- products can reawaken emotions and memories hidden quiring a product that gives you a sense of well-being. Cos- away in our deepest minds. In fact, throughout our lives we metics and everything associated with them bring a feeling sketch an image of ourselves made from scents, experi- of happiness.” And this feeling is far from trivial; it creates ences and memories. Scents are with us throughout our a real link between physical and mental health. Pleasure is development. Subconsciously or consciously, they mark good for your health! specific events – pleasant or otherwise – while reinforcing our personality and maintaining our self-image. Think, for example, of the scent of an aunt who was very strict and unloving. Not the best of memories! Subconsciously, you will not be drawn to anyone who wears the same perfume. Functionality is straightforward. Think, too, of a crying baby whose tears dry up like magic But a cosmetic has several aspects. From when he smells the odour of his “blankey”. embellishment to hygiene, it is the only product These subjective experiences of odours and textures and that promotes its users’ well-being and, going their positive effects have also been confirmed objectively beyond their senses, stimulates their imagination. 4 BELGIAN COSMETICS in various studies. In recent years, there has been analysis of the impact of cosmetics on the quality of life. Here, Data Mining International, an independent Swiss research agen- cy, has confirmed the validity and reliability of a new instru- COSMETICS, ment for measuring the quality-of-life impact of cosmetics (BeautyQol). For some people, this impact is considerable. TOUCHING A particularly good example is a video posted on YouTube in which an American teenager used camouflaging make-up PEOPLE’S LIVES to hide her acne, helping hundreds of other teenagers to feel better about themselves – a beneficial act of self-ac- ceptance delivered by a few beauty products! The effect of cosmetics is far less superficial than you might think. The vast majority of Europe’s 500 million consumers use In addition to giving a boost to self-confidence, applying cosmetic and personal care products contributing to well cosmetics can also have other ‘unexpected’ beneficial ef- being and healthy lifestyles, and positive self-esteem every fects. As an example, a small French study showed that the day. Ranging from antiperspirants, fragrances, makeup tactile experience of applying cosmetics can aid eye-to- and shampoos, to soaps, sunscreens and toothpastes, cos- hand coordination leading to improved balance, and even to metics play an essential role in all stages of our life. protecting older people against falls. Yet another good rea- son, if needed, for getting out those little jars that are lurk- EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parlia- ing at the back of your cupboards. ment and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products defines cosmetics as any substance that comes into contact with the epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs or with the teeth and the mucous A THIRD DIMENSION membranes of the oral cavity with a view to: A final use of cosmetics in our environment is more strate- • cleaning them gic in nature. “For centuries, the use of cosmetics has been • protecting them part of a natural tendency of humans to impress, frighten, • keeping them in good condition seduce or manipulate. This goes from hunters who rubbed • perfuming them or correcting body odours or ochre into their skin to hide their scent to the “psychologi- • changing their appearance. cal” preparation for an important meeting to close a deal, where the “predator” mimics the appearance of the “prey” Cosmetics Europe, the European personal care and cos- as much as possible. The reassurance of a familiar scent, metics federation, identifies five main categories of cos- the recognition of a make-up item, even the same style of metic products: clothing can transform an enemy into a friend. For exam- ple, scent mimicking allows a “family-like” connection to • Toiletries be created where it does not exist – and to take advantage (soaps, shower gels, toothpastes, deodorants, etc.) of it.” stresses Frédérick Warzée, Head of Communications • Skin care and cosmetologist at DETIC. (moisturizers, sun creams, anti-aging creams, etc.) • Hair care Cosmetics have long been part of our quality of life and, con- (shampoos, hair dyes, mousses, etc.) sequently, have improved our health. They also determine • Decorative cosmetics how people perceive each other and the world around them, (make-up, foundations, powders, blushers, lipsticks, while providing a framework for our experiences and me- nail varnishes, eye shadows, etc.) mories. Cosmetics are lived, smelled and felt: their effect is • Fragrances & perfumes sensual and psychological but is hard to describe in words. (perfumes, eau de toilette, extracts, lotions, etc.). 5 PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR SECTION 1 1 >> TURNOVER THE COSMETICS By country The cosmetics industry is biggest in Europe, where it ac- INDUSTRY counts for around one third of the global sales of cosmet- ics. Domestic turnover expressed in retail sales price (RSP) IN FIGURES was EUR 77.1 billion in 2015, compared to EUR 72.5 billion in 2014, an increase of 3.1%. The Cosmetics Europe statis- tics cover the 28 member states of the EU plus Switzerland and Norway. The second biggest market is the United States, with EUR 62 billion in sales. The third biggest consumer of cosmetics is China, at EUR 41 billion. Next come Brazil (EUR 23 bil- lion), Japan (EUR 20 billion), India (EUR 10 billion) and South Korea (EUR 9 billion). The experts expect emerging economies like Brazil, India, China and Mexico to drive in- dustry growth in the years to come. At European level, Belgium is ranked 9th, accounting for 2.7% of the European total, with turnover of EUR 2,057 bil- lion in 2015 (+ 0.7% compared to 2014). It should be noted that these figures include Luxembourg. FIGURE 1: MAIN COSMETICS MARKETS, IN EUR BILLIONS (2015) EUROPE €77bn US SOUTH KOREA €62bn €9bn JAPAN €20bn BRAZIL CHINA €23bn INDIA €41bn €10bn Source: Cosmetics Europe (2016) 8 BELGIAN COSMETICS FIGURE 2: BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY PRODUCT CATEGORY IN EUROPE AND BELGIUM (2015) By product There is a fairly balanced spread of turnover over the five Cosmetics Europe product categories (see Introduction).