BELGIAN COSMETICS Editor: Fabienne L’Hoost Authors: Christelle Charlier, Céline Vandermeersch, Wouter Decoster & Nicolas Preillon Graphic design and layout: OskarD COPYRIGHT © Reproduction of the text is authorised provided the source is acknowledged Date of publication: September 2016 Printed on FSC-labelled paper This publication is also available to be consulted at the website of the Belgian Foreign Trade Agency: www.abh-ace.be BELGIAN COSMETICS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 4

CHAPTER 1 PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR 7

SECTION 1: THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY IN FIGURES 8 1 >> TURNOVER 8 2 >> COMPANIES AND JOBS 12 3 >> EXPORTS 12

SECTION 2: BELGIUM’S ADVANTAGES IN THE VALUE CHAIN 15 1 >> BELGIUM, A WORLD-CLASS CHEMICALS CLUSTER 16 2 >> BELGIUM, THE IDEAL TEST MARKET 16 3 >> BELGIUM, FOCUSED ON INNOVATION 17 4 >> BELGIUM, A STRICT REGULATORY FRAMEWORK 18

SECTION 3: STAKEHOLDERS 20 1 >> OFFICIAL ORGANISATIONS 20 2 >> COSMETICS INDUSTRY BODIES 22

CHAPTER 2 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM 25

ANHAIRCO 26 CODIBEL 28 COSMEBEL 30 ECOVER 32 EXPANSCIENCE 34 JYB COSMETICS 36 L’ORÉAL LIBRAMONT 38 MYLÈNE 40 NADINE SALEMBIER 42 OBELIS 44 PRANARÔM 46 WORLD NATURAL CARE 48

CHAPTER 3 DIRECTORY OF COMPANIES 51 INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION THE STARTING POINT - HYGIENE AND PROTECTION

COSMETICS OF Health is, in the first place, the result of personal hygiene, which is achieved by using cosmetics. Personal care and EVERY STRUCTURE hygiene products, such as soap, shampoo and shower gel, are essential to modern hygiene and good health, and con- AND FRAGRANCE tribute to longevity. In today’s society, life expectancy is con- stantly breaking new records. And since soap became (SOURCE: DETIC) available to everybody, the quality of life has only improved. Illnesses due to a lack of hygiene have disappeared from western societies.

Protecting the body against external influences is an essen- In a society where we constantly hear words such as tial function of many cosmetics. Although few people really ‘growth’ and ‘profit’, we sometimes forget the magical, appreciate it, toothpaste and sun cream are also cosmetic original worth of a product: its sensuality. This introduction products. An amount of toothpaste equivalent to the size of takes us back to basics. It offers a literary puff, sniff or a pea is enough to protect teeth against decay; dentists rec- smell of the feeling that cosmetics can bring, products that ommend twice-daily brushing quite rightly. Meanwhile, sun are functional and sensual, of course, but that also have an products protect us against the sun’s rays, in which we often immaterial and often very cerebral side. spend more time than is good for us. Used correctly, these products can slow down premature skin aging and, essen- “Functional products are present everywhere in our lives. tially, sunburn, a major cause of skin cancer. You clean your house with a cleaning product and mow your lawn with a mower. Functionality is straightforward. But a cosmetic has several aspects. From embellishment to hy- giene, it is the only product that promotes its users’ PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF well-being and, going beyond their senses, stimulates their COSMETICS imagination.” With these words, Yu-Ting Chen, technical and regulatory expert at DETIC, immediately sets the tone But the hygienic and protective value of cosmetics goes be- for this introduction. “A cosmetic is not simply the product yond their functional operation to the level of human psy- itself; it has many offshoots. When you buy a cosmetic, you chological health. Through their odours and textures, these feel a real sense of pleasure because you know you are ac- products can reawaken emotions and memories hidden quiring a product that gives you a sense of well-being. Cos- away in our deepest minds. In fact, throughout our lives we metics and everything associated with them bring a feeling sketch an image of ourselves made from scents, experi- of happiness.” And this feeling is far from trivial; it creates ences and memories. Scents are with us throughout our a real link between physical and mental health. Pleasure is development. Subconsciously or consciously, they mark good for your health! specific events – pleasant or otherwise – while reinforcing our personality and maintaining our self-image. Think, for example, of the scent of an aunt who was very strict and unloving. Not the best of memories! Subconsciously, you will not be drawn to anyone who wears the same perfume. Functionality is straightforward. Think, too, of a crying baby whose tears dry up like magic But a cosmetic has several aspects. From when he smells the odour of his “blankey”. embellishment to hygiene, it is the only product These subjective experiences of odours and textures and that promotes its users’ well-being and, going their positive effects have also been confirmed objectively beyond their senses, stimulates their imagination.

4 BELGIAN COSMETICS

in various studies. In recent years, there has been analysis of the impact of cosmetics on the quality of life. Here, Data Mining International, an independent Swiss research agen- cy, has confirmed the validity and reliability of a new instru- COSMETICS, ment for measuring the quality-of-life impact of cosmetics (BeautyQol). For some people, this impact is considerable. TOUCHING A particularly good example is a video posted on YouTube in which an American teenager used camouflaging make-up PEOPLE’S LIVES to hide her acne, helping hundreds of other teenagers to feel better about themselves – a beneficial act of self-ac- ceptance delivered by a few beauty products! The effect of cosmetics is far less superficial than you might think. The vast majority of Europe’s 500 million consumers use In addition to giving a boost to self-confidence, applying cosmetic and personal care products contributing to well cosmetics can also have other ‘unexpected’ beneficial ef- being and healthy lifestyles, and positive self-esteem every fects. As an example, a small French study showed that the day. Ranging from antiperspirants, fragrances, makeup tactile experience of applying cosmetics can aid eye-to- and shampoos, to soaps, sunscreens and toothpastes, cos- hand coordination leading to improved balance, and even to metics play an essential role in all stages of our life. protecting older people against falls. Yet another good rea- son, if needed, for getting out those little jars that are lurk- EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parlia- ing at the back of your cupboards. ment and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products defines cosmetics as any substance that comes into contact with the epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs or with the teeth and the mucous A THIRD DIMENSION membranes of the oral cavity with a view to:

A final use of cosmetics in our environment is more strate- • cleaning them gic in nature. “For centuries, the use of cosmetics has been • protecting them part of a natural tendency of humans to impress, frighten, • keeping them in good condition seduce or manipulate. This goes from hunters who rubbed • perfuming them or correcting body odours or ochre into their skin to hide their scent to the “psychologi- • changing their appearance. cal” preparation for an important meeting to close a deal, where the “predator” mimics the appearance of the “prey” Cosmetics Europe, the European personal care and cos- as much as possible. The reassurance of a familiar scent, metics federation, identifies five main categories of cos- the recognition of a make-up item, even the same style of metic products: clothing can transform an enemy into a friend. For exam- ple, scent mimicking allows a “family-like” connection to • Toiletries be created where it does not exist – and to take advantage (soaps, shower gels, toothpastes, deodorants, etc.) of it.” stresses Frédérick Warzée, Head of Communications • Skin care and cosmetologist at DETIC. (moisturizers, sun creams, anti-aging creams, etc.) • Hair care Cosmetics have long been part of our quality of life and, con- (shampoos, hair dyes, mousses, etc.) sequently, have improved our health. They also determine • Decorative cosmetics how people perceive each other and the world around them, (make-up, foundations, powders, blushers, lipsticks, while providing a framework for our experiences and me- nail varnishes, eye shadows, etc.) mories. Cosmetics are lived, smelled and felt: their effect is • Fragrances & perfumes sensual and psychological but is hard to describe in words. (perfumes, eau de toilette, extracts, lotions, etc.).

5

PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

SECTION 1 1 >> TURNOVER

THE COSMETICS By country The cosmetics industry is biggest in Europe, where it ac- INDUSTRY counts for around one third of the global sales of cosmet- ics. Domestic turnover expressed in retail sales price (RSP) IN FIGURES was EUR 77.1 billion in 2015, compared to EUR 72.5 billion in 2014, an increase of 3.1%. The Cosmetics Europe statis- tics cover the 28 member states of the EU plus Switzerland and Norway.

The second biggest market is the United States, with EUR 62 billion in sales. The third biggest consumer of cosmetics is China, at EUR 41 billion. Next come Brazil (EUR 23 bil- lion), Japan (EUR 20 billion), India (EUR 10 billion) and South Korea (EUR 9 billion). The experts expect emerging economies like Brazil, India, China and Mexico to drive in- dustry growth in the years to come.

At European level, Belgium is ranked 9th, accounting for 2.7% of the European total, with turnover of EUR 2,057 bil- lion in 2015 (+ 0.7% compared to 2014). It should be noted that these figures include Luxembourg. FIGURE 1: MAIN COSMETICS MARKETS, IN EUR BILLIONS (2015)

EUROPE €77bn

US SOUTH KOREA €62bn €9bn

JAPAN €20bn

BRAZIL CHINA €23bn INDIA €41bn €10bn

Source: Cosmetics Europe (2016)

8 BELGIAN COSMETICS

FIGURE 2: BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY PRODUCT CATEGORY IN EUROPE AND BELGIUM (2015) By product There is a fairly balanced spread of turnover over the five Cosmetics Europe product categories (see Introduction). Skin care products and toiletries make up half of all Europe- an turnover. In Belgium, skin care products have been over- taken by hair products, which make up 26.1% of turnover. 13.9% The Belgian share of European hair product sales is 3.6% 25.8% (compared to an average of 2.7% for cosmetics).

15.7% EUROPE

SWEDEN 25.1% €2.0bn 19.4%

NETHERLANDS €2.9bn POLAND €3.1bn

UK GERMANY €12.5bn €13.4bn 11.4%

25.5%

18.0% BELGIUM

19.0%

26.1%

SWITZERLAND €2.3bn

SKIN CARE

TOILETRIES

HAIR CARE

SPAIN ITALY FRAGANCE & PERFUMES €6.4bn €9.7bn FRANCE DECORATIVE COSMETICS €11.4bn

BELGIUM / LUXEMBOURG €2.1bn

Source: Cosmetics Europe (2016)

9 PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

FIGURE 3 : BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY DISTRIBUTION CHANNEL IN BELGIUM, IN EUR THOUSANDS (2014) By distribution channel DETIC statistics cover sales on the Belgian market by feder- ation members (80%-90% of the total). DETIC identifies four distribution channels for cosmetics products: MASS MARKET

SELECTIVE DISTRIBUTION • mass retail, which also includes brands selling their PHARMACY own products through their own distribution channels PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS (such as Yves Rocher, l’Occitane and Body Shop) as well as semi-selective retail through drug stores (such as Di and Kruidvat) 2% • selective retail, including multi-brand stores (such as Ici Paris XL and PlanetParfum) and independents 10% • pharmacies • professional products.

Mass retail accounts for more than half of turnover (52% in 52% 2014). However, this channel has gradually ceded market 36% share to selective retail (36%) and pharmacies (10%). Pro- fessional products account for 2% of turnover.

There are some notable differences between the product categories. While mass retail is preferred for toiletries and hair products, selective retail dominates fragrances & per- 250,000 fumes. These two channels are on an equal footing with re- gard to decorative cosmetics and skin care. Pharmacies ac- 200,000 count for a quarter of skin care sales. The professional products channel is mainly used for hair care. 150,000

100,000

50,000

0 S SKIN CARE HAIR CARE TOILETRIE S FRAGANCE & PERFUME DECORATIVE COSMETICS

Source: DETIC (based on members)

10 BELGIAN COSMETICS

What about e-commerce in Belgium?

Online sales are included in the above categories, as DETIC does not have a specific category for this. For a long time, the inability to get advice and test products held back e-commerce, but it is now experiencing growth. This distribution channel complements the physical circuit, offering consumers a “different, enriched and personalised user experience”.

According to the latest figures from BeCommerce (the Belgian federation of online merchants), taken as a whole, e-commerce is continuing to grow and break records. Belgian consumers spent almost EUR 2.3 billion online in the first quarter of 2016 (+9% compared to the same period in 2015) in 21.4 million transactions (+7%). 76% of the population shopped online between January and March 2016. This channel accounted for 16% of total receipts in the Belgian retail industry.

This figures show that Belgium is catching up in e-commerce. According to BeCommerce, Belgium is in the top half in Europe.

The growth potential in cross-border e-commerce should also be stressed. 53.2% of the online purchases by Belgians in 2015 were made on foreign websites, especially those in neighbouring countries (Netherlands, Germany and France). According to BeCommerce, due to the size of the country, Belgian online merchants have no choice but to move into the export business. 82% of their visitors are foreign, mainly from France, the Netherlands, the United States and the United Kingdom.

The growth trend in e-commerce is also discernible in cosmetics: Belgians are buying more and more online. Health and beauty products accounted for 9% of all online purchases in 2015. The most popular categories were clothing and accessories (27%), electronics (24%) and leisure activities (11%). Cosmetics actually rose to first place during the Christmas and New Year period, accounting for no less than one third of online sales in Belgium.

A 2016 survey in France by CCM Benchmark Institut showed that cosmetics brands, consumer-to-consumer websites and general online retailers like Amazon and Cdiscount were the most popular destinations for online shoppers. The biggest sellers in cosmetics are face care products, make-up and body care products. Customer reviews, up-to- date stock information and a quick questionnaire to determine which products best meet the consumer’s needs are deemed to be the most useful services provided by online retailers.

11 PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

2 >> 3 >> COMPANIES AND JOBS EXPORTS

In “Socio-economic contribution of the European cosmetics Eurostat data pegged Belgian cosmetics exports at EUR 2.6 industry”, a report published in June 2016, Cosmetics billion in 2015. The following sections were taken into ac- Europe states that the cosmetics industry is a major count: business driver throughout the value chain (see Section 2). • 3303-Perfumes and toilet waters • 3304-Beauty or make-up preparations and prepara- tions for the care of the skin Companies • 3305-Preparations for the use on the hair More than 5000 companies are involved in the manufacture • 3306-Preparations for oral or dental hygiene of cosmetics products in Europe. One of the strengths of • 3307-Pre-shave, shaving or after-shave preparations, the industry is the coexistence of companies of all sizes. personal deodorants, bath preparations, depilatories According to Euromonitor International (2015) data, there and other perfumery, cosmetic or toilet preparations are 4605 SMEs in Europe. Italy, France and the United King- • 3401-Soap. dom have the most company registrations. Cosmetics is part of the chemical, plastics and life sciences The following companies should be added to this: industry, which is the biggest exporting sector in Belgium ac- • More than a hundred cosmetics ingredients suppliers counting for one third of total export (32.6% in 2015). The and packaging companies three biggest subsectors are pharmaceuticals, organic • 20,100 wholesalers chemicals and plastics, which jointly account for more than • 45,700 retail points of sale three quarters of the sector’s total export. Cosmetics ac- • Between 400,000 and 500,000 hairdressers and beauty count for 2.2% of the chemical, plastics and life sciences sec- salons tor, or 0.7% of total Belgian exports in 2015.

Belgian cosmetics exports increased by 18.7% in 2015 com- Jobs pared to the previous year. It was the third year of consecutive The industry employs 179,000 people directly (including growth after growth of 5.7% in 2013 and 10.1% in 2014. 152,000 in manufacturing) and 1.55 million indirectly. Belgium is the 7th biggest cosmetics exporter in the EU, ac- In Belgium, according to National Social Security Office counting for 6.0% of sales in 2015. France heads the ranking, statistics there were 5015 direct jobs on 30 June 2015. followed at quite a distance by Germany and the United King- dom. There are 1989 jobs in production (NACE 20.42 Manufacture of perfumes and toilet preparations). 70% of them are based in Flanders, mainly in the province of Antwerp. Almost all By continent the rest are based on Wallonia, especially in the provinces of Belgian cosmetics exports are diversified. The share of Eu- Luxembourg (home to the L’Oréal plant) and Hainaut. rope, which accounted for 79.3% of turnover worldwide in 2010, had fell to 71.1% by 2015, with Asia, America and Africa The sale of cosmetics (code NACE 46.45 Wholesale of per- all benefiting. fume and cosmetics) accounts for 3026 jobs in Belgium, of which 46% in Brussels, 37% in Flanders and 17% in Wallonia.

12 BELGIAN COSMETICS

FIGURE 4: FIGURE 6: BELGIAN COSMETICS EXPORTS BREAKDOWN OF BELGIAN EXPORTS PER FROM 2010 TO 2015, IN EUR BILLIONS CONTINENT IN 2010 AND 2015

3 1.2%

2.5 8.2% 2 9.2% 1.5 2.1% 1 2010 0.5 10.8% 1.9 2.2 1.9 2.0 2.2 2.6 0 68.5% 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

Source: Eurostat 0.8%

13.7%

FIGURE 5: 11.5% COSMETICS EXPORTS BY COUNTRY IN 2015 2015 2.9% 61.5% 9.5%

FRANCE

11.8% GERMANY

4.5% 27.4% UNITED KINGDOM 6.0% ITALY EU 28

6.1% SPAIN OTHER EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

POLAND AFRICA 6.9%

17.9% BELGIUM AMERICA 9.3% NETHERLANDS ASIA 10.1% OTHERS OCEANIA AND POLAR REGIONS

Source: Eurostat Source: Eurostat

13 PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

By country By product The Netherlands was Belgium’s principle customer in 2015, Beauty, make-up and skin care products account for the li- accounting for 21% of Belgian cosmetics exports, worth EUR on’s share at 39.1%. This section (3304) generally covers 560.6 million. ‘skin care‘ and ‘decorative cosmetics’. ‘Hair care’ products and ‘fragrances & perfumes’ place second and third, with The United States and Germany followed quite a long way 18.6% and 18.3% respectively. The remaining 24% of Belgian behind, with 9.1% and 9.0% of sales respectively. exports are made up of body care products (shaving, shower products, oral hygiene and soap), which correspond to ‘toi- France, which was Belgium’s second biggest customer in letries’ but also ‘skin care’. 2010, dropped to fourth by 2015.

FIGURE 7: FIGURE 8: TOP 10 BELGIAN CUSTOMERS, IN EUR MILLIONS BREAKDOWN OF EXPORTS BY PRODUCT CATEGORY (2010, 2015) (2015)

2010 5.2% 2015 18.5% 13.4%

600 5.1%

500 18.8% 39.1%

400

300

3303 PERFUMES AND TOILET WATERS 200 3304 BEAUTY OR MAKEUP PREPARATIONS AND PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN 100 3305 PREPARATIONS FOR THE USE ON THE HAIR

0 3306 PREPARATIONS FOR ORAL OR DENTAL HYGIENE

3307 PRESHAVE, SHAVING OR

USA AFTERSHAVE PREPARATIONS, ITALY SPAIN PERSONAL DEODORANTS, BATH RUSSIA FRANCE POLAND PREPARATIONS, DEPILATORIES AND GERMANY OTHER PERFUMERY, COSMETIC OR TOILET PREPARATIONS SWITZERLAND NETHERLANDS 3401 SOAP UNITED KINGDOM

Source: Eurostat Source: Eurostat

14 BELGIAN COSMETICS

SECTION 2

BELGIUM’S ADVANTAGES IN THE VALUE CHAIN

INPUTS TO PRODUCTION

The cosmetics industry value chain can be segmented into five main stages.

The first one comprises the companies that provide the raw materials required to make cosmetic products. These in- clude companies manufacturing the ingredients used in MANUFACTURING the production of cosmetics, but also companies develop- ing and manufacturing packaging components and R&D activities (e.g. market research, product formulation and industrial design).

The next step of the value chain (manufacturing) is made up of manufacturers. Socio-economic benefits are created DISTRIBUTION & WHOLESALE through production, but also through supporting activities (e.g. marketing and advertising, IT, accounting and legal services and business administration).

The finished cosmetic product may then pass through dis- tribution and/or wholesale.

RETAIL & BEAUTY The final stage of the value chain involves the retail sale and SERVICES purchase of cosmetics. End-consumers may buy cosmetic products through a range of channels, including grocery stores, supermarkets, department stores, pharmacies, on- line stores and beauty salons. Beauty salons (e.g. nail sa- lons, hair salons, spas, etc.) also purchase, use and sell cosmetic products.

CONSUMERS The cosmetics industry is particularly well developed in Belgium, where conditions are favourable throughout the value chain. As a world-class chemical cluster (2.1), Bel- gium is also an ideal test market (2.2) for cosmetics. The country is very open to innovation (2.3), while imposing a strict regulatory framework in accordance with EU require- ments (2.4).

Source: Cosmetics Europe

15 PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

1 >> BELGIUM, A WORLD-CLASS CHEMICALS CLUSTER

Belgium is global leader in the chemical industry based on EUROPEAN PIPELINE NETWORK turnover per inhabitant. Chemicals accounted for 32.6% of

exports and 28.2% of imports in 2015. With the Port of Ant- ROTTERDAM werp as hub, Belgium is a world-class chemical cluster by THE NETHERLANDS MARL size but also in terms of product diversity. RHEINBERG TERNEUZEN

OLEN ANTWERP GEEL TESSENDERLO Like Houston, Singapore and Jubail, Antwerp is one of the BELGIUM BERINGEN LEVERKUSEN MELSBROEK GENK world’s most important petrochemicals complexes. Belgium SITTARD GELEEN LILLE FELUY BONN

also has a huge pipeline network for the transmission of gas, JEMEPPE SUR SAMBRE oil and other petrochemical products. WAZIERS MAUBEUGE GERMANY FRANKFURT

FRANCE Belgium is home to several cosmetics ingredients suppliers, such as BASF, Dow Corning, EOC and Tensachem. Source: Port of Antwerp

2 >> BELGIUM, THE IDEAL TEST MARKET

In Belgium the cosmetics industry is relatively dense, with 6 BELGIAN SEAPORTS a huge distribution network.

ZEEBRUGGE Belgium is often felt to be the ideal test market, before en- tering other bigger, European markets, but also the perfect ANTWERP springboard for export. This also goes for cosmetics for several reasons. BRUSSELS OSTEND • Belgium is a major logistical hub. A crossroads at the LIÈGE heart of Europe with six ports and five airports. It also GHENT has an extensive rail network, with 3000 km of tracks. High-speed trains connect Brussels with Amsterdam, Frankfurt, London and Paris. Source: ib.fgov.be • Belgium is an outward-facing multilingual country, whose cosmopolitan capital Brussels is home to the NATO head- 5 BELGIAN AIRPORTS quarters and many EU and European institutions. ✈ • Belgians have a lot of purchasing power. According to ANTWERP Cosmetics Europe, the average Belgian spent EUR 174 ✈ BRUSSELS on cosmetics in 2015, which is well above the EU aver- ✈ NATIONAL AIRPORT age of EUR 124. Belgium is fourth highest in this rank- OSTEND ing, behind Sweden, the United Kingdom and Denmark. ✈ BIERSET • Industry experts say that Belgian cosmetics consumers adopt “average” behaviour, getting through 18g per day. ✈ CHARLEROI They are also well informed and act in full knowledge of (Brussels South) the facts. Source: ib.fgov.be

16 BELGIAN COSMETICS

For these reasons, many large brands have opened a produc- tion plant and/or a distribution centre in Belgium, including L’Oréal (France), Unilever (UK), Beiersdorf (Germany), Procter & Gamble (US), Estée Lauder (US), Henkel (Germany) and Johnson & Johnson (US).

3 >> BELGIUM, FOCUSED ON INNOVATION

One major advantage of cosmetics production in Belgium is its particularly innovative nature, a real trademark of the country. ULG: MASTER SPECIALISED IN COSMETOLOGY Many Belgian companies work anonymously for house www.ulg.ac.be brands. There are innovations at product level (creativity in formulations, textures) and at manufacturing level, especial- The aim of this master’s degree is to train professionals ly in terms of sustainable development. who are able to design, manufacture and test cosmetics. Given that they are applied directly to the skin, these Several Belgian universities offer courses linked to cosmet- products must meet extremely stringent requirements. ics and cosmetology. As such, Belgium helps talented young- Ingredients are tested, the manufacturing process moni- sters get a start in the industry, creating a pool of experts for tored, finished products evaluated and their safety for employers. humans and the environment is checked. This master’s degree therefore covers the legal, technical and scientific aspects of the ever-changing cosmetics industry.

ULB: MASTER’S DEGREE IN BIOMEDICAL SCIENCES Meeting evolving consumer DERMOPHARMACY AND COSMETOLOGY demands and remaining competitive www.ulb.ac.be/facs/pharma/cosmetologie in a fast-changing and globalised The European cosmetics industry is the global leader world demands constant innovation, whose highly innovative products are widely used by con- and in this respect we stand sumers. Given the increasing complexity of regulatory out. We are science-driven and constraints in the field of cosmetics ingredients and fin- our investment in R&D remains ished products, trained specialists are needed.

substantial. This relentless This master’s degree is offered by the ULB’s Faculty of commitment to innovation helps Pharmacy in association with the ULB’s Faculty of Medi- ensure that product design and cine and the Faculty of Medicine and Pharmacy of the safety are in a state of constant University of Liege (ULG). It is also supported by visiting professors from research centres and the cosmetics, evolution, and consequently, that we pharmaceutical and chemical industries. continue to generate growth and jobs in the EU.

John Chave, Director-General, Cosmetics Europe, Annual Report 2015 (June 2016)

17 PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

4 >> VUB: BELGIUM, A STRICT REGULATORY DEPARTMENT OF TOXICOLOGY, DERMATO- FRAMEWORK COSMETOLOGY AND PHARMACOGNOSY (FAFY) www.ecopa.eu Cosmetics products sold in Belgium and the European Union minf.vub.ac.be are subject to very strict regulation. They are among the most stringently regulated products, which provides consumers The Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology with guarantees as to their safety for humans. This is a con- and Pharmacognosy (FAFY) is part of the Faculty of siderable advantage on export markets. Medicine and Pharmacy of the Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB). Headed by professor Vera Rogiers, the depart- Cosmetics manufactured and sold in the European Union are ment works in two main research domains: toxicologi- subject to EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 of the European cal research, based on experimental in vitro toxicology Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cos- and dermo-cosmetic research, covering various as- metic products. 2016 marked the fortieth anniversary of the pects of measuring the efficacy and safety of cosmetic legislation, harmonised at EU level. It has proven to be an and dermatological products and their formulations. effective mechanism. The last health crisis in the European cosmetics industry was a long, long time ago. The FAFY team is an active member of several Belgian and European associations in domains connected with In Belgium, the EU regulation is supplemented by the Royal the department’s scientific research and knowhow. At Decree of 17 July 2012. The FPS Health, Food Chain Safety European level, Vera Rogiers is co-president of SCCP and Environment is the body responsible for ensuring the EU (Scientific Committee on Consumer Products), a mem- regulation is complied with in Belgium. Cosmetics manufac- ber of the EPAA (European Partnership for Alternative turers in Belgium must also notify the FPS of their activities Approaches to Animal Testing) mirror group, a member every two years. of ESAC (ECVAM Scientific Advisory Committee) and co- ordinator and research partner on several European Some points in this regulatory framework: projects.

The department holds regular national and internation- Responsible person al scientific conferences, workshops and symposia. In A responsible person (a natural person or a legal entity) in addition, the department is a breeding ground for Ph.D. the European Union must be designated for every cosmetic and post-doc research as a large number of master’s product. This ensures the conformity of the product and com- and Ph.D. theses have been successful defended over pliance with other legal obligations. The responsible person the past decade. must register the product on the European Commission’s Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP). The responsi- Every year, the department hosts two dermo-cosmetics ble person can be the manufacturer, the importer, a distribu- courses that enjoy international recognition for their tor or another authorised person. high quality and professional knowledge: • “Safety Assessment of Cosmetics in the EU” (www.safetycourse.eu) European cosmetics file • “Intensive Course in Dermato-Cosmetic Sciences” Drawn up and submitted to the relevant authorities by the (www.dermatocosmeticcourse.eu). responsible person, the file on the cosmetic product must contain the following information:

• The manufacturing method and a statement of compli- ance with Best Manufacturing Practices (compliance with the EN ISO 22716:2007 standard confers an as- sumption of conformity)

18 BELGIAN COSMETICS

• The safety report on the cosmetic product drawn up by The responsible person may be contacted at the address a person with a university-level European qualification stated on the product label or at the contact points stated in as a pharmacist, toxicologist or doctor or in an analo- the European Directory of Public Access (www.european- gous discipline cosmetics.info/en/). • Proof of claimed effects, even if these are self-evident.

Composition The EU regulation restricts the composition of cosmetics products and includes: European cosmetics legislation, which is now in its • A list of banned ingredients (appendix II) 40th year, is a model for the world, helping both to • A list of restricted substances (appendix III) ensure consumers are properly protected and to • The lists of authorised colouring agents, preservatives and ultraviolet filters (appendices IV-VI). facilitate trade in the EU.

John Chave, Director-General, Cosmetics Europe, Annual Report 2015 (June 2016) Labelling The following statements must be included on the label of the cosmetic products: • Name and address of the responsible person • Nominal content (quantity) We continue to encourage others to use the EU • Special user precautions (stated on the label at least in Cosmetics Regulation as an inspiration for their the language or languages of the region in which the own legislation and are pleased to note that many product is sold) • Ingredients in their common EU INCI designation, as emerging markets, including ASEAN, Russia, Latin stated in the CosIng database America and China, have indeed done so. • Product function unless it is self-evident (stated on the Gerald Renner, Director Technical Regulatory Affairs, Cosmetics Europe, label at least in the language or languages of the region Annual Report 2015 (June 2016) in which the product is sold) • Manufacturing lot number • Use before date: “best before end…” for products with a shelf life of less than 30 months • Period within which the product must be used after opening, expressed in months, for products with a shelf life of less than 30 months. For more information • Directorate General for Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and SMEs: Supplementary information ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics Consumers can get more detailed information from the • FPS Health, Food Chain Safety and Environment: party responsible for bringing the product to market: www.health.belgium.be (French or Dutch only) • Qualitative composition of the cosmetic product • Concentration of certain ingredients • Frequency and nature of reported undesirable effects

19 PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

SECTION 4

STAKEHOLDERS

1 >> OFFICIAL ORGANISATIONS

FPS Foreign Affairs Economic diplomacy is one of the basic missions of the FPS Foreign Affairs, which – operating within the current constitutional framework and taking account of the other stakeholders in the field – strives to promote Belgian economic interests abroad. It does this in a number of ways. For example, the FPS Foreign Affairs supports Belgian businesses in their international activities, with e.g. the economic missions of HRH Princess Astrid as representative of His Majesty the King and, increasingly, visits by the King provide substantial support to Belgian economic interests abroad.

We also promote Belgium internationally as a good place to do business. By actively participating in international forums such as the World Economic Forum, arranging bilateral visits and taking multilateral action in international organisations, the FPS Foreign Affairs aims to showcase the Belgian economy.

diplomatie.belgium.be/en

Flanders Investment & Trade, AWEX and Brussels Invest & Export each promote their own region: Flanders, Wallonia and Brussels. Their main assignments are threefold, which they are each free to achieve in their own way:

• To support exporters from the region • To inform, prospect for and advise potential foreign investors • To promote the region abroad

Alongside tax incentives, Belgian regions also grant companies significant financial incentives for recruitment, training, R&D, investment, consultancy and environmental protection.

20 BELGIAN COSMETICS

Flanders Investment & Trade Flanders Investment & Trade (FIT) promotes international enterprise in Flanders in a sustainable way as a key factor in the social and economic development of our region. FIT does so by supporting the international activities of Flemish companies and by attracting foreign investors to Flanders. FIT assists, supports and stimulates companies in international business. FIT offers tailored advice and guidance. Companies can call on its networks of contacts both at home and abroad. And FIT gives financial support and information on a wide range of financial incentives.

Flanders has many assets for ambitious Flemish enterprises and SMEs as well as for interested international companies. For Flemish companies, its region is a perfect gateway. For them, FIT tries to lower the threshold to doing business abroad. FIT promotes its services, provides information and knowledge about export and offers networking opportunities between entrepreneurs and brings them into contact with potential partners abroad.

Flanders is a pole of attraction for foreign companies: thanks to its central location in Europe, its strongly developed infrastructure, its innovative clusters and numerous other strengths. FIT tries to give them worldwide publicity. FIT adopts a tailored approach to potential investors and convinces them of the opportunities for their company in Flanders. Furthermore, FIT focus on existing investors in Flanders planning to expand their businesses.

Innovative clusters are of key importance to Flanders as a knowledge region. FIT helps these clusters in their internationalization process and tries to attract foreign investors capable of strengthening the cluster to grow into a major international player.

www.flandersinvestmentandtrade.com I www.investinflanders.com

AWEX The Wallonia Export - Investment Agency (AWEX) offers general expertise in international economic relations. This expertise ranges from promoting Walloon exports through to seeking foreign investment (helping find suitable sites, explaining support measures and tax rules, and providing information on recruitment and staff training, project funding, etc). AWEX also provides a range of services to all Walloon businesses seeking to operate at international level. However it is also the partner of choice for all buyers, importers and foreign prospects who are looking for a partner in Wallonia and wanting to find products, equipment, technologies or services in the area.

Outside of Belgium, AWEX can rely on an international network of 109 financial and business attachés, covering more than 120 markets and some 20 international organisations. These representatives are the key contacts locally for any business or public body wishing to develop a business or a partnership relationship with Wallonia or simply wanting to find out about the economic potential of such a relationship.

At Walloon level, AWEX’s main partners are the competitiveness and technological clusters in particular.

www.awex.be I www.investinwallonia.be

21 PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

Brussels Invest & Export Brussels Invest & Export works to promote foreign trade, assists Brussels companies, and attracts foreign investors to Brussels. It has built a database to help foreign investors with a specific project in mind find business partners in Brussels. Brussels Export has a foreign network of some 88 economic and trade attachés. Some of these are shared with FIT or AWEX.

Invest in Brussels specifically offers companies the opportunity to test Brussels as a business location for three months, providing them with free office space, secretarial services, facilities and professional advice from experts on suitable locations, support facilities, sector-related issues and legislation at Brussels and federal level, etc.

www.brusselsinvestexport.be I www.investinbrussels.com

2 >> COSMETICS INDUSTRY BODIES

essenscia essenscia, the Belgian Federation for Chemistry and Life Sciences industries, represents the interests of over 700 companies active in the fields of chemicals and life sciences.

With a turnover of EUR 64.3 billion, the chemical and pharma sector represents one fourth of the entire Belgian industry and employs 90,000 people. Chemicals, plastics and life sciences are the top export products of the country, representing a third of total Belgian exports.

This industry is also the most innovative sector of Belgium with EUR 3.6 billion in R&D- expenditures in 2015, representing nearly 60% of all the R&D in the manufacturing industry. This sector is highly diversified yet homogeneous covering a large range of products such as base chemicals, agrochemicals, plastics, paints & varnishes, detergents, drugs and vaccines as well as cosmetics and soaps.

Belgium is the number one chemical country in the world on a per capita basis. Belgium is also a world leader in pharmaceuticals and biotechnology which alone accounts for 10% of all Belgian exports.

www.essenscia.be/en

22 BELGIAN COSMETICS

DETIC DETIC is the Belgo-Luxembourg Association of producers and distributors of cosmetics, hygiene products and toiletries.

As the mouthpiece for its sectors in Belgium and the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, DETIC works to create and maintain a positive and sustainable image of its industries. Its central mission is to support, accompany and advise its members on the ‘responsible’ way to bring their products, services and solutions to market. DETIC provides expertise on regulatory and technical issues as well as in the field of communication and sustainable development.

The sector consists of many companies of differing sizes, ranging from major international organisations to small and medium-sizeda enterprises. In 2015, DETIC had 56 members in the cosmetics sector who recorded a turnover of around EUR 800 million on the Belgo-Luxembourg market. DETIC publishes a code of advertising and commercial communication that maps out practices in the sector in Belgium.

www.detic.be

Cosmetics Europe Cosmetics Europe - The Personal Care Association has been the voice of Europe’s EUR 70 billion (excluding exports) Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Industry since 1962. Cosmetics Europe represents the interests of more than 4.500 companies, ranging from major international cosmetics manufacturers to small, family-run businesses operating in niche markets. In 2015, direct and indirect employment in the European cosmetics industry was approximately 2 million people.

As the industry’s European trade association, Cosmetics Europe’s membership consists of large active and supporting international companies and active national associations. The national associations represent both the major international cosmetics manufacturers active in that country as well as national SMEs.

www.cosmeticseurope.eu

[…] Our industry continued to adapt to meet the needs of a changing world. A combination of factors such as globalisation, digitalisation and the need for greater sustainability are reshaping consumer behaviour with regard to cosmetics and personal care products. In response to changing needs and expectations, we have to continue to deliver products of the highest quality and safety, while remaining acutely conscious of the need to protect resources. Our industry cannot stand still […]

John Chave, Director-General, Cosmetics Europe, Annual Report 2015 (June 2016)

23

SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Tom Heyblom, General Manager and Alfred Bellemans, Plant Manager

COMPANY Anhairco

REGION Flanders

Belgian family company

Founded in 1925, production capacity began in 1992

Two sites: Aartselaar (salon supplies) and Olen (production)

Turnover: We can mass EUR 7 million produce, but we can just as well run off 500 pieces 40 employees of a specific product. Export: Active in the Netherlands since 1988 and subsequently other European countries Anhairco is a 100% Belgian family tion unit to combine the two sites. That business that was formed way back in ensures we are ready for the future.” Export share in turnover: 50% 1925. Originally a scissors and razor- blade business, Anhairco now imports In Olen the firm manages the whole salon supplies and manufactures cos- chain, from development to produc- Eco and organic certification metic products, distributing both in tion. “Flexibility is key at Anhairco,” (BDIH) Europe. The salon supplies depart- says Heyblom. “We are active almost ment in Aartselaar has more than five across the board in cosmetics, with Biocide certified thousand references, while cosmetics hair, skin and even pet products. The has its own production unit in Olen. only thing we don’t produce is make- up, as this requires a special tech- nique.”Anhairco can also fill just about FLEXIBILITY IS KEY anything, from small ampoules to large bottles and even bulk. “Our staff The cosmetics business was set up in is trained to convert production lines 1992 following the acquisition and ex- quickly to the customer’s orders. We pansion of a production company. An- can mass produce, but we can just as hairco made its biggest investment so well run off 500 pieces of a specific far in 2004, acquiring a company man- product,” adds plant manager Alfred ufacturing private label face and body Bellemans. This approach generates a care products. “It complemented our variety of customers, from supermar- business perfectly,” says Tom Heyb- ket chain Aldi to start-ups that find it lom, general manager. “So we imme- hard to predict how well their product diately decided to build a new produc- will sell.

26 BELGIAN COSMETICS

Some customers have a good idea of of our customers to put together a market. “We have been active abroad precisely what they want, others draw product information file for every before, but this is the first time we have on Anhairco’s knowledge and experi- product they bring to market. Many of gone to work in such a targeted way,” ence. In either case, the search for a them are not active in that sphere. We says Heyblom. “The Dutch customers new product begins in the laboratory. can assist them to ensure they are are more enterprising, too, and will “We will then get to work on develop- able to market safe products that start projects sooner,” adds Alfred Bel- ing a new formula or base ourselves comply with all laws.” lemans. “They take more calculated on a formula we developed earlier and risks and think ahead a bit more.” adapt it to suit the customer. Samples Around 80% of production is destined will be produced and the test phase for private labels, but Anhairco also That said, neither man regrets the fact will begin. We will be ready for produc- has two house brands, Corona Profes- that they are located in Belgium. “We tion between six and twelve months sional and Scarlett. These are includ- are well integrated and we have built down the line,” says Bellemans. ed in the wide range of salon supplies name awareness and a good reputa- through the company’s other busi- tion. In a context that has seen a lot of ness. “Almost every wholesaler in Bel- colleagues disappear, we are proud CUSTOMER SUPPORT gium and the Netherlands has salon that we are still standing firm as a supplies from the Anhairco range. Belgian producer.” The company es- Heyblom explains that Anhairco does That means that our hair products pecially relies for support on Detic, not aim to be the cheapest, but to dif- reach a large group of consumers.” which represents the sector and gives ferentiate itself from its international advice on legislation. And if a raw ma- competitors based on the constant terial is in short supply competitors in quality of its products. “The tests take BELGIAN SUPPORT the vicinity show their solidarity. The a good three to four months. We guar- north-east of Antwerp is fertile ground antee that the formula is stable and The Netherlands is roughly as impor- for companies in the industry. “There’s will not discolour or settle, for in- tant as Belgium for the company. With a reason why our region is known as stance. We have seen customers go to that in mind, Anhairco is currently roll- Cosmetic Valley,” laughs Heyblom. foreign producers, but we have also ing out a two-year communication seen them come back. It is already dif- plan to search for opportunities in the www.anhairco.be ficult to make a product once, but the real challenge is getting the same high quality in every production run.”

“Good communication and service are We have seen customers go to foreign also hugely important,” says Heyblom. producers, but we have also seen them Anhairco always enters into a dialogue with its customers to achieve the right come back. It is already difficult to make product together. But support can be a product once, but the real challenge provided even after the product has been delivered. “It is the responsibility is getting the same high quality in every production run.

27 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Michel Knops, CEO

COMPANY Codibel

REGION Wallonia

Creation: 1964

Place: Seneffe

30 employees

Consolidated turnover: EUR 6 million

Growth: > 10%

Established in Brussels in 1964, Codi- the health and beauty sector. The mot- bel relocated to Zaventem a few years to is simple: we make what you sell. later, before settling in Seneffe, in The company is specialised in hair Wallonia. “As a matter of interest, the care, skin care and oral hygiene and first stone of our present building was the customer base includes wholesal- laid on the day Lehman Brothers went ers, hairdressers, beauticians and bust,” says Michel Knops. “Codibel fi- medical/paramedical organisations nalised the biggest investment in its such as pharmacies and hospitals.

Selling abroad is written into every Belgian company’s genes.

history at a time when the global Besides its ‘private label’ activity, Cod- economy had just experienced great ibel also develops a range of in-house upheaval.” brands for hair care products: Kursaal, Labo Oily, Lagrange, Intensive Hair Codibel is active in all three federal re- Care, Color Revive, Color Defence… gions and feels very much at home in Belgium. “Wallonia is particularly wel- coming. The investment aid system, EXPORTING IS IN coupled with available subsidies, is BELGIUM’S DNA very effective”. “Given the limited size of the Belgian Codibel offers a one-stop solution market it appears crucial for SMEs to from conception to market through quickly take on an international di- creative sustainable partnerships in mension in order to continue to grow.

28 BELGIAN COSMETICS

Selling abroad is written into every Belgian company’s genes,” says Economic performance must be paired Michel Knops. with social and environmental progress. Sustainability is the only way forward. It is hard to quantify Codibel’s foreign presence. “We have a direct presence abroad through the export of our own brands, but also indirectly through and the EU regulation on cosmetic ble products in terms of packaging, customers we work for under con- products. “At first glance it is very re- product and manufacturing process. tract,” says Michel Knops. As well as strictive for modestly sized manufac- “Sustainability remains today more a Europe, products from our Seneffe turers like us, but, when all is said and matter of motivation than obligation. plant can be found in Canada, the done, we are able to market state-of- However, it is close to our hearts and United States, Brazil, Australia, China, the-art products that are highly per- we want to use it as a means of differ- Taiwan and Hong Kong, which is proof formant from a technical and scientif- entiating ourselves,” says Michel of their acceptance and recognition at ic point of view”. Knops. global level. Michel Knops says that it is a plus “Economic performance must be Codibel regularly joins economic Codibel can highlight when prospect- paired with social and environmental missions with AWEX and takes part in ing for new customers abroad. “In an progress. Sustainability is the only way many trade fairs and shows. Michel ultra-competitive environment char- forward. Our choice has been to privi- Knops feels that Codibel still has room acterised by outstanding French and lege inspiration over competition for a for development in terms of visibility. Italian companies in particular, we stronger community and a healthier “As one of our priorities, our strategic must be innovative and original if we way to do business. This ambitious ob- international development plan is built are to differentiate ourselves and cre- jective enables us to pursue our devel- on an ambition to switch from sporadic ate added value and jobs. Our lead opment in a responsible manner, to structured exports.” The company over the competition outside the EU in which surpasses pure financial con- will initially focus efforts on bordering terms of regulation could prove inval- siderations. At the same time our pri- countries within the European Union, uable.” ority remains fulfilling customer satis- which have the advantage of being faction by supplying products destined harmonised at regulatory and to be widely consumed without re- monetary level (no exchange risk in SUSTAINABILITY: striction, and allowing our employees the euro zone). AN ISSUE FOR THE to participate actively in a ‘responsi- FUTURE ble-citizen’ attitude, which we all hope will transcend future generations.” A HIGHLY REGULATED The Seneffe plant was built using sus- INDUSTRY tainable materials, ensuring excellent Michel Knops ends by giving his own insulation among other things. It has definition of sustainability, formulated The cosmetics industry is one of the more than 500 solar panels, which as a goal for Codibel: “Developing and most closely supervised and tightly cover 50% of its own power needs and selling cosmetic products that fulfil controlled in Belgium. It is also one of minimises its carbon emissions. It is the expectations of people today with- the most regulated. Fortunately, com- also connected to the new industrial out jeopardizing the ability of future panies are well informed and support- water collection network, with a purifi- generations to meet their own needs.” ed by both the national (DETIC) and EU cation station just a few steps away (Cosmetics Europe) federations. from the site. Rainwater is harvested, stored and recycled for sanitary use www.codibel.be In the European Union, the cosmetics and in a closed circuit for cooling pro- industry is governed by two main duction vessels. blocks of legislation: REACH (registra- tion, evaluation, authorisation and re- Codibel now wants to take the next striction of chemicals) for ingredients step and develop a range of sustaina-

29 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Maurice Bertrand, founder and consultant

COMPANY

Cosmebel A FAMILY SAFE, HIGH-QUALITY ADVENTURE AND EFFECTIVE REGION For almost 30 years, Cosmebel, a All Cosmebel products contain an in- Brussels family business, has been active in a gredient developed in-house by the niche cosmetics market: care for dark company: an active vegetable extract skinned people. This segment only that comes from Asian plants. “It is Formation: 1989 makes up about 2% of the global mar- essential that we only use ingredients ket. Cosmebel is involved in bringing that do no harm to the skin.” many different skincare products to Place: Brussels market, both its own product range The company is very keen to protect and third-party brands custom-pro- the reputation of its skincare brand. 8 employees duced at its specialised plants. “Our When poor-quality copies have threat- company is a real family,” explains ened one of its products, Cosmebel Maurice Bertrand. “I formed the com- has withdrawn it and launched a new Export share: 85% pany in 1989, based on my extensive range. The company also rules out experience of the pharmaceuticals in- working with partners that are not too Turnover in 2015: dustry and trade with Africa. My goal is particular about efficacy. EUR 2.5 million to meet the growing demand for trust- worthy products to treat pigment “This commitment does not affect spots, and lighten and unify the com- pricing: we remain competitive,” says plexion. The first care product won a Maurice Bertrand. Cosmebel develops prize at the Salon des Inventeurs in and markets skincare products for all 1991 and the range has been improved budgets: Nutriclair-branded products and added to ever since.” Cosmebel for the mass market, Clear Sensation, now has eight employees and practi- a mid-price series, and Klaris, a more cally the whole family is involved. luxurious range of no fewer than ten skincare products that is coming onto

The company is very keen to protect the reputation of its skincare brand.

30 BELGIAN COSMETICS

The knowhow of the Belgian employees has made the Belgian capital the market soon. “Nutriclair is a big an ideal base. success. We project a 30-40% rise in sales in 2016.”

ON THE Cosmebel products are mainly export- customers satisfied. “For instance, INTERNATIONAL ed to Africa, but customers are also there’s a high demand for car- STAGE found in the major European cities, rot-based care products and Cosme- such as Brussels, Paris and London, bel has hooked into this trend.” The Cosmebel has offices, a warehouse and to a lesser degree in the United bottles have also gradually got bigger. and a shop in Brussels. “Being from States. “That’s a market we are work- Brussels myself, the city was a natural ing on right now,” says Maurice Ber- And the Klaris range is expected to choice, but it does hold several advan- trand. India and China also have great drive the future of the company. EUR tages, too. Brussels benefits from its potential. African partners also mar- 100,000 has been invested in this new central geographical position, it has ket their own brands in association range, which will be available soon. good logistical connections and it is with the Belgian company. “We are not too far from Paris. That’s where we getting more and more of these cus- “And why not develop organic care meet most of our customers.” In spite tom requests.” products?” asks Maurice Bertrand. of the relatively high costs, the kno- whow of the Belgian employees has made the Belgian capital an ideal ALWAYS MOVING www.cosmebel.com base. FORWARD

Cosmebel is very much a globalised The youngest member of the family business, with suppliers in Asia and has recently started raising Cosme- Europe, producers in Europe and cus- bel’s profile on social networks. The tomers on three continents. “We have latest campaign clocked up 25,000 benefited from the support of the Bel- likes on Facebook and the company gian Foreign Trade Agency (which was certainly intends to work on this chan- regionalised in 2002) since the very nel. To improve its visibility, the com- beginning for our foreign business pany is also preparing to take part in trips. They provide invaluable assis- trade shows and fairs in Africa. tance when we visit several countries in one trip.” It also refines its products to keep

31 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Steven Van Den Ouweland, Head of Marketing BeNeFraLux and Export Markets

COMPANY Ecover

REGION Flanders

Formation: 1979

Place: Malle Environmental awareness is very 500 employees important for our sales. across the whole group

Turnover: EUR 250 million, half of it Ecover makes washing up, laundry, are as recyclable as possible. “That generated by Ecover personal care and household prod- means the packagings seem a bit less ucts. There’s a single unifying ambi- flashy and glossy, but they have a low- Growth: At least 10% annually. tion behind the whole range, from er impact on the environment and shower gel and dishwasher tablets to contain a lot less plastic,” says Van Double the turnover by 2020. window cleaner: making the world a Den Ouweland. Ecover goes even fur- better place. ther with its award-winning Oceans Prizes: Plastic bottle. This bottle contains 10% A sustainability prize and a design prize recycled plastic reclaimed from the AWARD-WINNING oceans. “We would like to increase for the Limited Edition bottle made of PHILOSOPHY that percentage, but the supply chain ocean plastic does not allow you to obtain more in a Ecover strives to achieve this ambi- sustainable way, so we don’t.” Abroad: tion, day in, day out, by marketing high-quality products at an acceptable Ecover is a challenger on the market. First neighbouring countries in the 1990s, price that also help protect the envi- More than one million Belgians have now almost the whole of Europe, North ronment. That’s why the company re- bought an Ecover product in recent America, Asia (China and Japan) and fuses to use synthetic chemicals, un- months. At the same time, Ecover ap- Oceania. like most of the competition. “They plauds the increasing competition always end up in the water supply and from companies who are going green. have a negative impact on the environ- “It’s better to have a bigger pie rather ment,” says Steven Van Den Ouweland, than a bigger slice of a small pie,” Head of Marketing BeNeFraLux and says Van Den Ouweland. People Export Markets. “We look for natural against Dirty, the merged group to equivalents that are environmentally neutral or can even have a restorative effect in the future.”

This quest for an environmentally neu- tral product cycle is continued in the packaging. An empty bottle of laundry liquid or soap is usually thrown away or in the best case scenario recycled. That’s why Ecover ensures its bottles

32 BELGIAN COSMETICS

which Ecover and Method in the Unit- and part of Australia. A new produc- ed States belong, have quite an ambi- tion line, which is expected to turn the tion. Annual growth of at least 10% home market into even more of an op- has been mapped out. erating base, came on stream in June 2016. “Globalisation is completely contrary to our way of thinking,” says FROM BELGIUM TO Van Den Ouweland. “But the quality of NEW ZEALAND young chemists and biologists in Bel- gium is exceptionally high, too. The To achieve this, export has been given good universities create a huge net- a big place in the scheme of things. work through which knowledge can be Ecover currently markets its products shared.” directly in 11 countries. As well as neighbouring countries and other western European countries, that in- RULES OF THE GAME cludes Australia and New Zealand. four-fold increase in turnover. The “Our products resonate very well in Seven out of ten Belgians know the company is already well represented Oceania, countries that led the fight Ecover brand and market share is internationally, although Asia is still in against global warming. And environ- highest here. The company is proud a start-up phase and it is not active in mental awareness is very important that it has helped highlight the envi- Africa as yet. “But things are moving for our sales; we now see that coun- ronmental awareness of Belgians. fast there too. We note that the cus- tries in northern Europe score much “I’m confident that an ecological pri- tomer base for our products in such higher than those in southern Europe.” vate label in Belgium would not have countries is increasing and we will in- been possible if we had not opened up vest there.” The ambitions are also big The market in countries where de- the market,” says Van Den Ouweland. in countries where the company is al- mand is not yet strong enough is But Ecover products also raise aware- ready strong. “We aim to broaden our served through distribution partners, ness internationally. “We are changing target group to include everyday con- who regularly propose new opportuni- the rules of the game. Our products sumers by investing even more in R&D ties, based on their local experience. give the European commission am- and making our products even better, Many of them were found at special- munition to tighten its laws. Ecover to educate them about harmful sub- ised trade shows. “In the long term we shows that products can be highly ef- stances in regular laundry and clean- may take the reins in more countries, fective without having to contain ing products without putting them off but we must not to get ahead of our- harmful detergents.” due to perceived lower quality.” selves in our growth.” Ecover looks to the future with a great Turnover and R&D targets are very high, Malle is the production location for deal of ambition and impatience. By but one ambition towers above them. Europe, part of Asia, the Middle East 2025 the company wants to achieve a “We are a member of B Corp, which provides a framework and certification for companies wishing to benefit society as well as their shareholders. Our in- tention is to top that list worldwide.”

be.ecover.com

An ecological private label in Belgium would not have been possible if we had not opened up the market.

33 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Hilde Weckx, CEO

COMPANY

Expanscience Expanscience Laboratoires is a French perpigmentation. All told, the skincare pharmaceuticals and dermocosmetics business accounts for almost 60% of REGION group. The group’s foundations were worldwide turnover and is the sole fo- laid in 1950 by Paul Berthomé, whose cus of the Belgian subsidiary. Flanders son is currently at its head. The group has two core businesses, skincare and products for people with reduced SCIENTIFIC Group formed in 1950, mobility. Expanscience Laboratoires UNDERPINNING Belgian subsidiary in 1963 has subsidiaries in 14 countries and is active in 85 countries across five Expanscience Laboratoires opened its continents. first foreign subsidiary in Belgium in 14 sites, distributors in more than 80 1963. Hilde Weckx, CEO of Expansci- countries, active on all continents. The parent company has developed a ence Laboratoires Belgium, explains number of products for people with that the affinity with the language reduced mobility, including Piascledine played a role, as did the advantageous Belgian site: Zellik 300, one of the world’s most successful synergy of the Anglo-Saxon (Flemish) anti-osteoarthritis products. This and the Latin (Walloon) model. In the Employees: business accounts for around one early days, the three employees 21 in Belgium, 977 worldwide third of the group’s global turnover. worked in Brussels together with a lo- The Belgian site does not yet distribute cal distributor. A more independent these products. structure with its own administration Turnover in 2015: was created in the late eighties and almost €7 million in Belgium, Skincare is the second core business early nineties. The Belgian subsidiary €272.3 million worldwide of Expanscience Laboratoires. The now employs 21 people in Zellik, Mustela brand is targeted at babies Flemish Brabant. and young mothers. The group is also Number of products sold in 2015: diversifying into dermocosmetics with In theory the Belgian subsidiary serves 1 million in Belgium, Noviderm, which treats acne and hy- the whole of the Benelux. Mustela is 66 million worldwide

Growth in Belgium: +6%

843 patents worldwide

Awards for Expanscience Laboratoires Belgium: Greener Packaging Award 2014 for Mustela Enlarging distribution to the big retail chains? It would be an easy way to achieve higher turnover, but it would not tally with our values and MUSTELA®, ALLES BEGINT MET DE HUID philosophy.

aren te bew dheid ezon innoveren om uw g

duratrans-2016.indd 2 22/06/16 16:26 34 BELGIAN COSMETICS

People sometimes say that it smells of baby. That is actually the smell of Mustela.

Mustela formula is no longer the same as it was 60 years ago, but the per- fume is. “People sometimes say that it smells of baby. That is actually the smell of Mustela.”

CSR IN THEIR DNA

Expanscience Laboratoires endeav- ours to maintain the positivity gener- ated around the birth in its focus on corporate social responsibility. “It’s in our company’s DNA,” says Weckx. The Belgian subsidiary is a member of “The Shift”, the meeting place for sus- tainability in Belgium. To mark its six- tieth anniversary the company devel- sold in both Belgium and Luxem- UNDISPUTED MARKET oped “the Mustela forest”, with trees bourg, but Expanscience Laboratoires LEADER planted for every birth announcement is yet to develop a significant presence card the company received. There are in the Netherlands. “We do sell over This strategy pays off for Expansci- also partnerships with SOS Children’s the border, in Sluis, but we do not yet ence Laboratoires. In Europe the Villages, Villa Rozenrood and others. do any active promotion,” says Weckx. brand is the undisputed market lead- “It’s not enough to have good products However, there are ambitions to enter er. Weckx explains that a lot of compa- nowadays. Who is behind it, what is the Dutch market. The biggest chal- nies market baby brands but soon pull behind it, are they involved in CSR? lenge is the distribution model. “In the out of the market because there is That trend has been established and I Netherlands products like Mustela are such a dominant leader. Mustela has think it will become even more impor- sold in drugstores, but we have the ex- more than 60% market share in Bel- tant over the next few years. We cer- pertise to establish partnerships with gium too. “We even have 100% pene- tainly want to provide that information. pharmacies.” tration. Our products are sold in every We want to be an open book for con- single pharmacy in Belgium, especial- sumers,” says Weckx. With that in Reaching out to stakeholders in the ly due to the demand from young par- mind, the company is also investing in home market is central to the Belgian ents,” says Weckx. digital accessibility, among other team’s strategy. There are visits to things through the Mustela & Me app, pharmacies as well as doctors, der- That dominance is partly explained by which provides help and assistance to matologists, paediatricians and mid- the excellent ties the company main- mums-to-be from week to week. In wives. Above all, Weckx swears by a tains with maternity wards. “When we line with the scientific approach that is scientific approach. That is also why arrive there with Mustela the doors so typical to Expanscience Labora- Mustela is only available through are opened wide. And if you can be toires, this is done in close association pharmacies. “Enlarging distribution to present with your product at the birth, with doctors, gynaecologists, dieti- the big retail chains? It would be an you immediately establish an emo- cians and psychologists. easy way to achieve higher turnover, tional band that is hard to top.” The but it would not tally with our values focus on the emotional aspect is also and philosophy.” reflected in the look and feel. The www.expanscience.com/en

35 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Charles-Antoine Huybrechts, cofounder

COMPANY JYB Cosmetics JYB products are

REGION natural care products with the world’s highest Brussels percentage of organic ingredients. Formation: 2012

Place: Ixelles JYB is a Belgian company that BUSINESS 2 employees and use produces and markets cosmetics with of freelancers the world’s highest percentage of The brand was launched in October organic ingredients. JYB is very keen 2013 and business got off to a flying to reconcile pleasure with the use of start a year later. The biggest name on Growth: the best-quality organic ingredients. the pharmaceuticals market, Mul- > 10%, exponential tipharma, showed its faith in JYB. They were soon followed by LloydsPharma, HISTORY the second biggest.

After five years of R&D, JYB was offi- The range originally comprised seven cially formed in 2012 by two partners products, but that has since been en- with complementary profiles: Jean- larged to ten: anti-age eye contour Yves Berlaymont (knowledge of the balm, facial oil, day cream, night beauty industry, marketing, R&D and cream, moisturising mask, exfoliating production) and Charles-Antoine Huy- mask, face cleansing gel, herbal dis- brechts (financier, commercial and tillate, moisturising body gel and an administrative). They now hold all the essential cream. shares, which ensures the company’s independence. JYB won an Elle Beauty Award for its exfoliating mask in 2015.

36 BELGIAN COSMETICS

Products are only sold through phar- There is a distributor in Italy and one in It is in regular contact with Brussels macies and para-pharmacies. There Hong Kong. The products are also sold Invest and Export and is always in- are two reasons for this: at several Monoprix stores in Paris volved in royal trade missions to ensure - The credibility of the products on and in selected pharmacies in London. its growth on international markets. offer. - The growing awareness of con- Negotiations are ongoing with the Gulf As well as these financial incentives, sumers to product composition. States (initial contacts were made JYB also benefits from Belgium’s fine As a result, there is a shift in cos- during the royal trade mission to Qatar credentials as a test market. metics buying habits from per- and the United Arab Emirates in 2015), fume shops to pharmacies. Some Spain, Norway and Switzerland. large groups are also trying to FUTURE grow this sales channel. CONSTANT In coming years JYB plans to increase INVESTMENT POLICY its presence internationally while IN-HOUSE AND PUBLIC SECTOR adding to its range to respond to the PRODUCTION SUPPORT growing consumer interest for high- grade natural organic cosmetics, which The company manufactures its whole JYB constantly invests in its laboratory people love. range at its ISO 22716-certified labo- and R&D (enlargement of the range, ratory in Ixelles, which ensures full development of formulas). traceability while keeping costs in www.jybcosmetics.com check. That certification also opens The company has benefited from subsi- the gates to the international market. dies to convert its premises, participate in trade shows, develop its website and create flyers, among other things. GOING GLOBAL

JYB moved into the export market in 2015 and more than 55% of turnover is already generated abroad. JYB also benefits from Belgium’s fine credentials as a test market.

37 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Etienne Genin, factory director

COMPANY L’Oréal Libramont

REGION Wallonia

Part of L’Oréal Group

Founded in 1975 The quality of our products and our logistical agility always remain Situated in Libramont our strong points.

400 employees

As part of the Consumer Products Divi- of its size (45 ha), its location and favour- Turnover in 2015 (L’Oréal Belgilux): sion of L’Oréal Group the Libramont fac- able conditions offered by the provincial EUR 248.9 million tory has since 2013 been specialised in governor. IDELUX, the economic develop- the manufacturing of hair colour kits for ment agency of the province of Luxem- Growth in 2015 (L’Oréal Belgilux): the European market. Producing these bourg, also played its role in the decision. kits is a complex process. The best-sell- “And when 40 years later we decided to +1.6% ing kit is composed of no less than three build a greenhouse and a water treatment products: a colouring cream, an oxidant system, we again had full support of pub- Investments: and a hair treatment. The kit also in- lic authorities such as AWEX, the Wallon- EUR 10 million per year on average cludes an instruction leaflet, a pair of ian agency for exportation and foreign in- gloves and an accessory for application, vestments.” for example a comb. Export share: Despite a certain administrative complex- 98% The L’Oréal group has significant exper- ity, Belgium benefits from a central posi- tise in hair colouring. Eugène Schueller, tion in Europe, excellent infrastructures 100% green energy since 2009 L’Oréal’s founder, was the inventor of the and a highly qualified workforce. “Howev- first permanent colouring. The Libramont er, the Libramont factory’s location near factory produces over 205 million colour- the Luxembourgian border makes the re- ing kits every year. cruitment of people with technical train- ing, like electromechanical engineers, a little bit more difficult.” LONG HISTORY IN BELGIUM AN EXPERT IN L’Oréal Group set up its first international COLOURING branch in Belgium in 1937. “The factory that was set up in Uccle in 1948 had be- The colouring kits that are manufactured come too small, so relocation was need- at the Libramont factory are intended for ed,” says Etienne Genin. The L’Oreal fac- the general public. They are sold to com- tory in Libramont was opened in 1975 and mercial enterprises who distribute them celebrated its 40th anniversary last year. to hyper- or supermarkets. Only 2% of the This particular site was chosen because kits produced in Libramont are intended

38 BELGIAN COSMETICS

for Belgian sales, the rest is exported to produced on site and immediately brought comes to setting up the targets of the other countries such as Germany, France, to the filling machines. This way we have group, on a global level, and the targets of the UK, Italy, Spain and Russia. Further- eliminated excess transportation packag- 44 factories and distribution centres. Car- more, L’Oréal Libramont supplies 33 in- ing while reducing internal flows within bon emission, water consumption and ternal L’Oréal customers. the factory and creating additional eco- waste production will be reduced to a 60% nomic activity in the region.” difference compared to the company’s re- “Two different trends are present in Eu- sults in 2005. Furthermore, no more rope,” explains Etienne Genin. “On the L’Oréal Libramont is very proud to have waste will be dumped. one hand, Eastern European countries made the switch to 100% green energy in are developing at a fast pace year after 2009 with the creation of a biomethane The Libramont site has already reduced its year. While on the other hand, the demand unit. This unit allows the creation of bio- carbon emissions by 180% compared to in Western European countries is becom- gas through the fermentation of vegetable the company’s results in 2005. Water con- ing steadier. However, the quality of our substances from agri-foodstuffs waste. sumption has been reduced by 60% at the products and our logistical agility always This gas fuels three cogeneration engines beginning of 2016. The factory has its own remain our strong points, whatever the that together produce enough energy to water treatment system that allows to re- destination of the products may be.” meet 250% of the factory’s electricity con- use the water used during the production sumption. The surplus energy the factory of the kits for cleaning purposes. “In con- L’Oréal’s ambition for 2020 is to attract a makes is transferred back to the electric- clusion, we have reduced water consump- billion new customers while consuming ity grid. Furthermore, the biomethane unit tion per colour kit from 80cl in 2005 to only less energy and natural resources. provides enough energy for 90% of heating 23cl in 2015.” The factory has made enor- and 60% of the vapour production. mous progress in waste management as well : waste dumping has been called to a ENVIRONMENTALLY Sustainable production is one of the pri- stop in 2005. Between 2005 and 2015 the CONSCIOUS mary aims of L’Oréal’s Sharing Beauty presence of suppliers on site and the reus- With All commitment, a project to raise ing of crates has contributed to a 25% de- Particular about the Libramont site is that the Group’s share in sustainable develop- cline in waste production. since 2011 it also houses one of L’Oréal’s ment by 2020. In the context of this pro- suppliers. “All our shampoo bottles are jects, L’Oréal has been ambitious when it The 800 m² greenhouse allowed to reduce the amount of sludge generated by the factory’s water treatment system by 1200 metric tons per year. The dry residue that is created out of this sludge is used at ce- ment manufacturing.

In 2015 L’Oréal Group continued to grow while consuming less energy, which Our future looks proves that environmental protection and bright in the growth can in fact go hand in hand. cosmetics industry, but we must keep CONSTANT RENEWAL up with new trends “L’Oréal’s stongest point is the regular and strike when launch of new products,” says Etienne the time is right. Genin. “Our future looks bright in the cos- metics industry, but we must keep up with new trends and strike when the time is right.”

www.loreal.com

39 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Alain Duperray, CEO and Filip Meersman, R&D manager

COMPANY Mylène

REGION

Flanders These are busy times at Mylène. The gian turnover immediately.” Plus this company celebrated its fiftieth anni- personal way of working characteris- versary in 2015 and decided to give it- es the Mylène brand. Formed in 1965 self a rejuvenating cure. The current efforts are set to bear fruit in January Originally, Mylène only sold cosmetics 2018, with a product image upgrade to products, but the range was soon ex- Heist-op-den-Berg better reflect the high quality of the panded to meet demand at home par- range. ties, as reported by consultants. As 101 permanent employees well as a Beauty department, which and a sales force of focuses on cosmetics and make-up, PRODUCT AND Mylène now also has a Home depart- 3,500 active consultants EXPERIENCE ment. This markets cleaning prod- ucts, as well as a collection of textiles Turnover 2015: “We will not tinker with the original (from towels to pyjamas) and interior EUR 42 million concept of consultants who sell prod- design products, such as roomsticks ucts at home parties,” says Alain and scented candles. Duperray, CEO of Mylène. “If we were BRC Global Standards in Consumer to sell our products through the retail “Whatever we sell, the quality must Products channel we would probably gain more always be excellent,” says the CEO. exposure, but we would lose touch “Constant quality is very important. If with our customers. I do not believe one person at a home party says they we would be able to duplicate our Bel- like a product, she will not only buy

If one person at a home party says they like a product, she will not only buy the product again, she will also encourage other people round the table to buy and use it.

40 BELGIAN COSMETICS

the product again, she will also en- courage other people round the table to buy and use it. Bearing in mind that the consultant’s relationship with her hostess and customers is based on personal perceptions, word of mouth is a hugely powerful sales method.”

NEW LOOK

Mylène products are of comparable quality to the well-known brands, de- Not only the logo and the spite being competitively priced. “We strapline, but also the shape, the cap, also focus strongly on using lots of the pump and so on. Everything will active ingredients rather than shaping perceptions of product quality with be reviewed. marketing tools and through look and feel, as can sometimes be the case with other brands,” says Filip Meers- man, R&D manager. Formula devel- Mylène has the ambition to grow fur- presence there has grown organically opment and quality checks all take ther with this new look, which reflects through consultants. But now we can place at the company’s own laborato- the quality of the contents. “We have look further, too, with ambition.” ry. Production is also completely in both consultants and customers that Mylène’s own hands. “To safeguard have been with us from the very be- It will take a long time to build up a quality we make relatively small pro- ginning. It is time to rejuvenate our- network of consultants as strong as duction batches. The advantage is selves and get the new generation of those in Belgium and the Nether- that the product lead time is very consultants and customers acquaint- lands. With that in mind, other distri- short and we do not have to store ed with the experience concept and bution channels will be considered large stocks. Most of our suppliers our products,” says Duperray. A reju- for other countries. “As long as the are Belgian, so we keep the quality venation among the 3500 consultants distribution partner has the ambition high and are able to benefit from their at Mylène will immediately lead to a of covering a whole market or region expertise through interaction,” says rejuvenation among customers. Be- and establishing the Mylène brand,” Meersman. cause a 25-year-old consultant will says Duperray. primarily work in her own age group. The home party concept is based on an Our number one priority is monitor- experience in which the customer is ing our superior product quality to- given advice on the products, so A STRONG BRAND gether with dynamic multi-level mar- conspicuously praising ingredients or ABROAD keting. “Food and cosmetics are the putting claims explicitly on the most intimate products there are. You packaging was not really done until “By giving the products a stronger need to trust what you are eating or recently. Because buyers were image we can also become more ac- rubbing onto your skin. People want immediately given this information in tive abroad. Mylène already does to pay a specific price for that, provid- person. “Now we are finally going to give business in neighbouring countries, ed there are health and safety guar- both these things a prominent place,” as a historical consequence of how antees. That is even more of an issue says Duperray. “We have scheduled the we work. The consultants were origi- for the new generation. We are re- full rebranding of the product line. Not nally highly concentrated in the sponding to that.” only the logo and the strapline, but also Campine and the network gradually the shape, the cap, the pump and so on. spread out. “Countries like Germany Everything will be reviewed.” and the Netherlands are close by; our www.mylene.be

41 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Nadine Salembier, founder

COMPANY

Nadine Nadine Salembier devotes most of her Salembier time to improving the wellbeing of women by helping them to be as beau- tiful as they can be. She works hard to panded on the international stage. From REGION produce beauty products at the cutting 1980 new products were added to the Wallonia edge of research and innovation. range, attracting interest abroad. The A trained beautician, Nadine Salembier company’s first foreign clients were started working in the 1960s, bringing based in Switzerland and Hong Kong. back from her many journeys around Princess Mathilde opened the first Formation: 1973 the globe natural ingredients that Beauty and Life Center in Kuala Lum- made her name. She surrounded her- pur, Malaysia in 2001. Others followed in Sites: Comines and Brussels self with cosmetics and beauty care Casablanca (2003), Bangkok (2004), Da- experts to create a range of personally mascus (2010), Baghdad (2011), Egypt, branded natural products. Lebanon, Benin and elsewhere. 15 employees In 2013 she was officially elevated to Nadine Salembier now has distributors the position of holder of a royal warrant around the globe, from Toronto to Hong Export share: 25% as a supplier to the Belgian court in Kong. There are 110 Nadine Salembi- recognition of her years of service as er-branded centres in Taiwan. Exports Queen Mathilde’s personal beauty ad- account for 25% of turnover. The main Holder of a royal warrant as a supplier visor. One of the trailblazers of modern markets are in Asia (Taiwan, Malaysia to the Belgian court beauty, Nadine Salembier is now the and Hong Kong), followed by Morocco, foremost expert on beauty in Belgium Spain and Portugal. and beyond, as president of the Nation- In her expansion efforts Nadine Sa- al Union and the International Federa- lembier has benefited from the support tion Of Aestheticians. of AWEX, which has played an invaluable role in establishing business contacts. She also benefitted from Brussels in- THE FIRST INSTITUTES vestment aid when opening her institute in the city. And Rentic and E-business The history of Nadine Salembier Diffu- provided assistance for the launch of sion began in 1962 when the founder, the website and the online store. Nadine Salembier, opened her first beauty institute in Comines, Belgium. The Nadine Salembier brand was A FULL RANGE OF launched in 1973. The products were NATURAL PRODUCTS developed in light of the knowledge of beauty problems reported by her own The experience acquired providing care clients and those of the beauty insti- at the institute led to the creation of an tutes. At the same time, the Brussels extensive beauty range for both trade LOGO NS pantone 423 EPS_choix.pdf 1 19/09/16 08:53 institute opened in the heart of Brus- customers and consumers. The prod- sels’ chicest neighbourhood on avenue ucts have been specially developed to Louise. The company employs 15 people respond to the beauty concerns of wom- and is run like a family business. en and men across the globe. Smooth creams, light lotions, fruity masks – the panoply of natural products meets a C INTERNATIONAL whole host of beauty needs. M

Y EXPANSION Research and development is key to CM the success of products. The ingredi- MY

CY As a company that is open to the world, ents are sourced from various parts of CMY Nadine Salembier Diffusion quickly ex- the world – only the best are accepted. K

42 BELGIAN COSMETICS

BEAUTY, A MISSION Improving the well-being of women is a job for specialists. Beauty is important to women, but in today’s world they do not have a lot of time to take care of themselves. Women in the 1960s had free time to spare, but today’s women work all day and have to fight to stay feminine in the little time they do have for themselves. My mission is to highlight women’s natural beauty, while respecting their identity. In my career spanning fifty years, I have known every stage in a woman’s life: from adolescence to adulthood and on into maturity. So I know all about those stages and the corresponding needs of women going through them. That means that I can meet all their expectations. Beauty care is about sharing; it is a gift to others.

commercial activities, Nadine Salemb- ier has always felt very strongly about defending and supporting major so- Up to twelve natural plants go into each pass on knowhow and experience. cial, medical and animal causes. finished product. The products are Nadine Salembier is highly involved in For example, she sponsored the set- tested and are subject to a continual the future of the industry, working ting up of a women’s cooperative in the improvement process. Every product is tirelessly for properly supervised, fully north of Benin. The women harvest the registered with the relevant authorities accredited, high-grade training. She nuts of the shea, which are used in a in Belgium and the European Union. argues for the need to further improve new line of rich, exclusive products. Nadine Salembier-branded products the image and prestige of the industry Nadine Salembier is also involved in have been on the market for more than and considers beauticians to be aesthetics in the hospital environment, 30 years. Private label runs are also “beauty nurses”. Training is held in responding to a request from an oncol- available as bulk or as fully packaged Brussels and Comines, where train- ogy hospital in the Lille region to help finished products. ees stay at the Institut Saint-Henri’s improve the well-being of cancer pa- The company is also fully committed to own accommodation. For example, tients. A similar project is ongoing in sustainable development. Plastic pack- Nadine Salembier recently gave an in- the Brussels-Capital Region. aging is 100% polyolefin, which is fully ternationally recognised training It is part of a partnership with gener- recyclable. Bottles are made from 85% course to 300 students at the beauty ous young beauticians who give their recyclable material. Suppliers are cho- school in Damascus. A hundred and time to provide beauty care to patients sen that are close to the production site twenty candidates currently receive at the oncology hospital there. They to reduce the environmental footprint. make-up, beauty and beautification needed professional products to pro- And airless packaging technology is training in Charleroi. She is highly de- vide care and ensure the project was used to ensure the cosmetic products manding and expects the very best viable. Nadine Salembier offered her are given the very best protection. from her trainees. products. Nadine Salembier herself attended a very good school. In the 1970s she was A FAMILY COMPANY trained in semi-permanent make-up FUTURE WITH UNIQUE KNOW- in Japan, the cradle of this technique. HOW After completing this training, in 1985 The family company remains attentive she became the first European to start to all developments and opportunities Both the cosmetics industry and the practising the semi-permanent make- in the industry, which are key to its cur- environment in which the beauty insti- up technique, which was revolutionary rent and future growth. tutes do business are highly competi- at the time. She is now a leading ex- The new Univers Balnéo centre recent- tive. Nadine Salembier has always pri- pert. ly opened to the general public in Na- oritised quality over quantity. Growth is dine Salembier’s birthplace. And a new not based on a “drive for business or e-commerce platform is set for launch production volume”, but squarely on NADINE SALEMBIER’S in the near future, with a web app to quality. The company’s foremost SOCIAL ENGAGEMENT follow in the second half of 2016. strengths are flexibility, long experi- ence and the high quality of training to Alongside her institutional work and www.nadine-salembier.com

43 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Sandra Ferretti, chief compliance officer

COMPANY

Obelis SERVING THE that states all the characteristics of a COSMETICS INDUSTRY product and the ingredients. Putting REGION the regulatory aspects to one side, “Our family company provides consul- manufacturers also run the risk of Brussels tancy services on EU directives and having a sales ban imposed on their regulations concerning medical de- cosmetics. “The regulation must not vices and the cosmetics industry,” obstruct innovation and business,” Formation date: 1988 says Sandra Ferretti. In addition, cos- says Sandra Ferretti. Obelis ensures metics manufacturers can also desig- its services are value for money. nate the company as their ‘responsi- Place: Brussels ble person’ within the European Among other things, the company ad- Union. vises its clients on the development of 30 employees in Belgium an EU strategy. It informs them about

Export share: 95%

Presence abroad: branches The regulation must not obstruct in the United States and Israel, and innovation and business. agents in 15 countries Obelis ensures its services are value for money. Nominated for the 2015 Brussels Best Exporters award

The aim of the new EU cosmetics reg- the checks they will be subjected to ISO 9001:2008-certified ulation that came into force in 2013 is and lobbies the European Commis- to make cosmetics sold in the Euro- sion in defence of their interests even pean Union safer and strengthen the before laws are passed. “This allows responsible person concept. Manu- manufacturers to focus on their prior- facturers can only sell products in the ity, which is selling products.” Obelis European Union if they have designat- has worked for companies of all sizes ed a person or company within the EU – micro, small, mid-sized and large – in this role. This party is responsible for almost 30 years now. for ensuring that the product meets all relevant safety requirements un- der the legislation. “As a responsible VISIONARY person, Obelis provides a wide range MANAGEMENT of services to its clients, from check- ing compliance to product registra- After obtaining ISO certification for its tion, plus a whole battery of tests. We medical devices services, Obelis man- also work with assessors and special- agement made the same changes and ist laboratories to ensure the impar- improvements to the procedures used tiality of the product safety assess- for their cosmetics activities. The ment.” company created the responsible per- son concept even before the EU au- Some manufacturers underestimate thorities imposed it. Its services to the the complexity and the costs of the cosmetics industry are also ISO-certi- process when they do it themselves. It fied. This high-quality management is not at all easy to put together a file system made Obelis a trailblazer, as

44 BELGIAN COSMETICS

the company was immediately in Obelis employs around 30 employees compliance as soon as the new regu- at its Belgian offices, and has branch- lation was implemented. es in the United States and Israel, as well as a large number of representa- As a key intermediary between manu- tives around the world. Brussels In- facturers and the EU authorities, Obe- vest & Export provides support for lis enables the whole industry to bene- participation in non-European events. fit from its knowledge and encourages Obelis was nominated for the 2015 companies to become more profes- Brussels Best Exporters award in the sional. “We set up the European Cos- Services category, which highlights metics Responsible Persons Associa- and rewards the best-performing tion and contribute to a host of Brussels companies on international seminars and shows to keep market markets. 95% of the SME’s services parties informed. The company also are provided to foreign firms. “We participates in working groups set up work in more than 65 countries out- by professional associations to pro- side the European Union, so our mar- mote the sharing of best practices”. ket is huge.” This sustained activity means that the company is growing all the time, at an annual rate of 10-15% EXPORT CHAMPION since formation. “The family nature of our company means we can respond The company’s home is the Belgian very fast,” says Sandra Ferretti. capital, close to the EU institutions. In spite of the complex administrative www.obelis.net system, Belgium continues to have a good brand image abroad. It is seen as a centre of innovation.

We work in more than 65 countries outside the European Union, so our market is huge.

45 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Mireille Vanvolsem, marketing director

COMPANY

Pranarôm Pranarôm International is a scientific is harvested, which is all over the and medical aromatherapy laboratory world,” says Mireille Vanvolsem. They REGION formed in 1991 by Dominique Bau- are then sent in barrels to Ghislen- doux, a passionate pharmacist and ghien, where they are bottled or trans- Wallonia aromatherapist with a global reputa- formed into finished products (nasal tion. Ghislenghien was chosen as the sprays, throat pastels, balms, syrups). place of business. This small town is “We are responsible for some of the Formation: 1991 the home of the Baudoux family, which production ourselves, but we do out- has been heavily involved in the com- source in the case of complicated for- pany since the very beginning. In 2011 mulas that require special knowhow Part of the Belgian Inula group investment fund Vendis Capital took a or equipment. We have many pre- stake in the company, which was sub- ferred suppliers in Belgium and Sites in Belgium: stantially restructured. France.” Ghislenghien (head office), Vielsalm Three years later, Pranarôm acquired Pranarôm recently invested in its facil- Herbalgem, a Vielsalm-based special- ities, modernising and adding an extra Subsidiaries: ist in gemmotherapy, a treatment that 2500m² to its storage and shipping France, Spain, Italy, Portugal uses various tree and shrub buds. In area. “The shipments are packed and January 2016 it acquired two new then dispatched by haulage contractor 85 employees in Belgium

Turnover in 2015: We spend just as much on training EUR 43.5 (Inula group: EUR 53 million) as we do on marketing.

Growth in 2015: 13% (Inula group: 11%) companies, US firm Veriditas, which is to the points of sale. It became vital for Winner of the also active in aromatherapy, and us to optimise our space to support French company Biofloral, which our growth.” A third bottling line came 2010 Walloon Export Prize manufactures artisanal plant-based on stream in August 2016. “We are organic products (Fleurs de Bach, Or- also investing in people by hiring per- tie-Silice). These four companies have manent employees,” adds Mireille now joined forces in the Inula group. Vanvolsem. “Our ambition is to become the num- ber one producer of non-allopathic natural therapies, as opposed to the FOCUSED ON traditional way diseases are treated in EXPORTS Europe,” says Mireille Vanvolsem. “In 2015 exports accounted for 83% of turnover,” says Mireille Vanvolsem. ESSENTIAL OILS AND Pranarôm sells its products through BY-PRODUCTS its own sales force in those countries where it has subsidiaries (France, Pranarôm sells bottles of pure essen- Spain, Italy and Portugal). It is also a tial oils as well as finished products big exporter to Asia, Latin America based on essential oil to pharmacies and Canada, working with carefully and organic shops. “Our essential oils selected distributors that fit in with its are distilled where the aromatic plant brand image.

46 BELGIAN COSMETICS

“We have had a lot of support from AWEX,” says Mireille Vanvolsem. It has subsidised R&D projects as well as the opening of an office in Latin Amer- ica. It also helped co-finance the sala- ry of one of our employees tasked with exploring the Chinese market. Prana- rôm maintains regular contacts with DETIC too, particularly when develop- ing cosmetic products.

PRESALE TRAINING AND INFORMATION

“Our great strength is our willingness to first sell the aromatherapy concept, then our products. We feel it is vital to inform consumers about essential oils to ensure they use them wisely.” With that in mind, Pranarôm holds numer- ous training events in the form of lec- tures, workshops, webinars and so on. “When we open a subsidiary we do not only hire sales staff, we also recruit At Pranarôm we naturally trainers. We spend just as much on ensure we protect the health of training as we do on marketing,” says consumers, but we also protect planet Mireille Vanvolsem. and people as a whole Pranarôm’s second competitive ad- through partnerships with essential vantage is its very high quality stand- ards. Customers can go online and oil producers. check the chromatography of the product by entering the lot number. The development of any new product is personally supervised by the presi- third strength. “Pranarôm is the only eral more are lined up for release dent (Dominique Baudoux) and in- brand that markets 250-300 unique through to the end of 2017. cludes a great many laboratory effica- references of essential and vegetable cy tests. “At Pranarôm we naturally oils. In general, if an oil is not in our Pranarôm is very optimistic about its ensure we protect the health of con- catalogue it does not exist.” While future. “We have a lot of ideas and pro- sumers, but we also protect planet competitors often confine themselves jects in the pipeline. There are a lot of and people as a whole through part- to the big-sellers, Pranarôm takes its opportunities in aromatherapy,” says nerships with essential oil producers.” role as aromatherapist very seriously. Mireille Vanvolsem. In the short term, “One of Pranarôm’s fundamental prin- two new companies will be integrated ciples is that it must constantly devel- into the group. The Veriditas brand will WELL-FILLED op its core business, bottled essential then be given an image makeover be- CATALOGUE oils, in order for the foundations to fore Pranarôm enters the promising remain stable.” We recently added US market. Mireille Vanvolsem names the par- new references to the list: yuzu, rose- ticularly large range of products as the wood leaf and fine lavender AOP. Sev- www.pranarom.com

47 SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

INTERVIEW WITH Stan Idelsen, Co-Founder

COMPANY

World Natural VALUE-BASED first products for sale and this, at the Care MANAGEMENT beginning of 2016. “We waited for the APPROACH right time to ensure that our margins would be big enough in order to fi- REGION World Natural Care was formed by a nance our R&D and limit the necessity Brussels civil engineer (Stan Idelsen) and a fi- to borrow capital (stocks, customer nancial consultant (Alain Vertraeten), credit).” both sharing a passion for remedies handed-down by grandmothers. Creation: 2006 Based in Evere, this market-oriented BETWEEN TRADITION R&D start-up company draws more AND MODERNITY Place: Evere, Brussels inspiration from sales than from technology. “It is not our scientists “Our mission is to replace petrole- who determine which products we um-based ingredients and synthetic 15 employees develop but our customers”, says substances that are a danger to hu- Stan Idelsen. man health as currently used by pro- Export share: 100% ducers of finished cosmetics and World Natural Care follows the cus- pharmaceuticals”, says Stan Idelsen. tomer value-based management ap- World Natural Care now uses extracts proach, which has been thoroughly from almost 1200 plants, offering al- tried and tested in Scandinavian com- ternative natural solutions from green panies like Ericsson, Tetra Pak and chemistry, which enables its custom- Volvo Trucks. While the traditional ers to reduce their carbon footprint model advocates to take the fast track and grow their profits. Consumers are to market, World Natural Care chose actually ready to pay up to 40% more to wait for almost ten years to offer its for a certified organic product.

It is not our scientists who determine which products we develop but our customers.

WNC World Natural Care Green Solutions for Cosmetics & Pharmacy

48 BELGIAN COSMETICS

The origin of the formulas developed World Natural Care offers cosmetics by World Natural Care creates a para- and pharmaceutical producers alter- dox. On the one hand, its green ingre- natives that resolve the problems they dients are inspired by traditional natu- encounter with their usual ingredients. ral remedies from traditional For instance, it developed its own veg- pharmacopoeias. Today, they work with etable lanoline to replace traditional two communities: the Berbers and the animal lanoline, which contains pesti- Armenians. In exchange for their se- cides. Vasegreen® is a substitute for crets, World Natural Care finances Vaseline, which is made from petrole- projects to conserve these people’s um and stuffes the pores. It has devel- cultures. On the other hand, World Natural Care is a high-tech company that masters state-of-the-art techno- logical processes. It works with highly Sales of green cosmetic products are qualified scientists who are able to create added value independently. The growing by 20% year after year in company recently opened a new GMP OECD countries. (good manufacturing practice) instal- lation and its laboratories are well on the way to earning GLP (good labora- tory practice) certification. A few mil- oped a vegetable talc to replace tradi- have 15 employees at World Natural lions have been invested to date. tional talc, which contains asbestos Care and 11 different nationalities.” and aluminium and tends to dry out The company works with several uni- the skin. It also works with cactus, a versity laboratories that are located PERSONALISED very attractive plant in terms of envi- close to the Belgian capital. Most of its SOLUTIONS ronment, and a lot of other substitutes. natural ingredients suppliers are Eu- Throughout the production chain, raw ropean, some of them Belgian green- World Natural Care invents, manufac- materials and ingredients are subject- house farmers. tures and sells customised solutions ed to stringent toxicity testing to en- that respond to the problems experi- sure total safety for both manufactur- Among its development projects, enced by its customers. “Our products ers and consumers. World Natural Care has the ambition are functional rather than standard- to attract US customers and plans to ized off-the-shelf ingredients.” open several production units on the WORLD DOMINATION other side of the pond. “For example, we have been ap- FROM BRUSSELS proached by a major German distribu- Stan Idelsen sees a huge value-crea- tor who wanted to make the switch Today, World Natural Care exports tion potential in cosmetics through the from an industrial pharmacy to a everything it produces. “Being located replacement of synthetic chemicals. green pharmacy. We have been work- in Belgium, a commercial hub, is a big “Sales of green cosmetic products are ing together intensively over the past advantage”, says Stan Idelsen. Prod- growing by 20% year after year in few months”, says Stan Idelsen. World ucts only went on sale a few months OECD countries”, he says. “And the Natural Care has also developed a ago, but, thanks to the work of around discoveries in this industry can be ap- revolutionary pigment technology, ten distributors, they are already used plied to other industries, such as agri- based on a request from a US custom- in Europe (especially Scandinavia), the culture. With its flourishing chemical er who wanted to have its organic United States, Latin America, Japan, and pharmaceutical industries, Bel- products certified. Once it was certain South Korea, Thailand, Australia and gium is certainly in a great position to that selling by the kilo would be suffi- New Zealand. set the example when it comes to re- cient to finance the R&D, the company placing petroleum.” bought the machines needed to start “It is easy to attract the best brains production. from around the world to Brussels. We www.wncare.com

49

DIRECTORY OF COMPANIES DIRECTORY OF COMPANIES

This directory is not exhaustive.

For more information please contact Flanders Investment & Trade (FIT), Brussels Invest & Export, Wallonia Export - Investment Agency (AWEX) or the Belgian federations (see Chapter 1, Section 3).

TITLE ZIP CITY REGION SITE TOILETRIES CARE HAIR & SKIN DECORATIVE COSMETICS DECORATIVE FRAGANCES & PERFUMES & FRAGANCES

A CORPS PARFAIT 6010 CHATELET Wallonia - • •

ACOS-VISODERM 6530 THUIN Wallonia www.acos-laboratoire.com • • •

AGAVA 7780 COMINES Wallonia www.agava.be • • •

AGC INNOVATION 7061 THIEUSIES Wallonia www.bechocolate.be • •

AIT/IVT 8640 VLETEREN Flanders www.trappist.com • •

ALANINE 7011 GHLIN Wallonia www.alanine.be •

ALONGCIL 1410 WATERLOO Wallonia www.alongcil.com •

AMWAY BELGIUM 1000 BRUSSELS Brussels www.amway.be • • •

ANGE NATURE 5310 EGHEZEE Wallonia www.angenature.be • • •

ANHAIRCO N.V. 2630 AARTSELAAR Flanders www.anhairco.be •

ANHUA ZHOULI CO 1090 BRUSSELS Brussels www.gefyragroup.com • • • FRASNES-LEZ- ASINERIE DU PAYS DES COLLINES 7911 Wallonia www.asineriedupaysdescollines.be • • BUISSENAL ASTRA NAILS 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.astranails.be •

ATELIER M. MOUREAU S.A. 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.moureau.be •

ATELIERS JEAN REGNIERS AJR 6543 BIENNE-LEZ-HAPPART Wallonia www.ajregniers.be •

AURIGA INTERNATIONAL 1410 WATERLOO Wallonia www.auriga-int.com •

AZOR 1435 MONT-SAINT-GUIBERT Wallonia www.azor.be • •

AZURTIS 1380 LASNE Wallonia www.azurtis.com • • • BEAUTE PRESTIGE INTERNATIONAL 1000 BRUSSELS Brussels - • • S.P.R.L. BEE NATURE 1300 WAVRE Wallonia www.beenature.be • •

BEIERSDORF S.A./N.V. 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.beiersdorf.com • •

BENECHIM 7860 LESSINES Wallonia www.benechim.com •

BEPHARBEL MANUFACTURING 6180 COURCELLES Wallonia www.bepharbel.com • •

BH COMPANY 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels www.jybcosmetics.com • •

BIOCODEX BENELUX S.A. 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.biocodex.be •

BIOSCIENCES-SHIFT 7382 AUDREGNIES Wallonia - • •

52 BELGIAN COSMETICS

TITLE ZIP CITY REGION SITE TOILETRIES CARE HAIR & SKIN DECORATIVE COSMETICS DECORATIVE FRAGANCES & PERFUMES & FRAGANCES

BIO-TECH 5032 MAZY Wallonia www.biotechparfum.com • •

BIOVIE DIRECT 6110 MONTIGNY-LE-TILLEUL Wallonia www.bioneuf.be •

BNOVA - B-CAP 5100 WIERDE Wallonia www.b-cap.eu • •

BOURJOIS S.A. 1170 BRUSSELS Brussels www.bourjois.com • • • •

BRENNTAG 7700 MOUSCRON Wallonia www.brenntag.be • •

BVLGARI S.A. 1000 BRUSSELS Brussels www.bulgari.com •

CALYPSO MARKETING 1310 LA HULPE Wallonia - • •

CARIN HAIRCOSMETICS N.V. 8430 MIDDELKERKE Flanders www.carin.be •

CEREPHARMA 7822 GHISLENGHIEN Wallonia www.cerepharma.com • •

CHANEL S.A. 1170 BRUSSELS Brussels www.chanel.com • • •

CHEMCOM 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.chemcom.be •

CID LINES N.V. 8900 IEPER Flanders www.cidlines.com •

CÎME 1000 BRUSSELS Brussels www.cime-skincare.com • •

CLARINS BENELUX 1410 WATERLOO Wallonia www.clarins.com • • • •

CODIBEL 7180 SENEFFE Wallonia www.codibel.be • • •

COLGATE-PALMOLIVE BELGIUM S.A. 1160 BRUSSELS Brussels www.colgate.com • •

CONPALUX 6880 BERTRIX Wallonia www.conpalux.be • • •

COPAIBA 4845 SART-LEZ-SPA Wallonia www.copaiba.be • • •

COSMEBEL 1190 BRUSSELS Brussels www.cosmebel.com • •

COSMETOLOGIE SPINEE 5575 RIENNE Wallonia www.spinee.be • • •

COSMIC N.V. 2220 HEIST-OP-DEN-BERG Flanders www.cosmic.be • • •

COTY BENELUX N.V. 1731 ZELLIK-ASSE Flanders www.lancaster-beauty.com • • • •

CURADOR 4000 LIEGE Wallonia www.curador.net •

DC FRANCINE ROTSAERT 7700 MOUSCRON Wallonia www.dcosmetiques.eu •

DEXSIL LABS 6180 COURCELLES Wallonia www.dexsil.be •

DISTRIMARKS 5377 BAILLONVILLE Wallonia www.distrimarks.com • • • DOMINIQUE GILLIS - ARGAN EXPORT 1367 RAMILLIES-OFFUS Wallonia www.argan-export.com • COMPANY AEC ECOVER BELGIUM N.V. 2390 MALLE Flanders be.ecover.com • •

ELITE COIFF 6224 WANFERCEE-BAULET Wallonia www.elitecoiff.be • ESSENSYS COSMETICS DUTILLEUX 6560 HANTES-WIHERIES Wallonia www.essensys-cosmetics.com • DANIELE ESTEE LAUDER 1831 DIEGEM Flanders www.esteelauder.be • • • •

EURODIST 1402 THINES Wallonia www.eurodist.be •

EUROLABOR 1400 NIVELLES Wallonia www.eurolabor.be •

EUROPHARMA GROUP 4000 LIEGE Wallonia www.europharmagroup.com • •

EXPANSCIENCE LABORATOIRES BELGIUM 1731 ZELLIK Flanders www.expanscience.com/en • •

53 DIRECTORY OF COMPANIES

TITLE ZIP CITY REGION SITE TOILETRIES CARE HAIR & SKIN DECORATIVE COSMETICS DECORATIVE FRAGANCES & PERFUMES & FRAGANCES

FARDEL COSMETICS 1348 LOUVAIN-LA-NEUVE Brussels www.fardel.com • •

FASTECH - FASTSPORTS 1400 NIVELLES Wallonia www.fastsports.be •

FAZO COSMETIC 1170 BRUSSELS Brussels www.fazocosmetic.com •

FILORGA MANUFACTURING 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels - •

G&M AND PARTNERS 4500 HUY Wallonia www.mariepapote.be •

GEODE CHEMICALS AND LABORATORIES 4540 AMAY Wallonia www.geodechemicals.be •

GLOBAL BEAUTY 4690 ROCLENGE-SUR-GEER Wallonia - •

GRIJSPEERDT B.V.B.A. 8800 ROESELARE Flanders www.grijspeerdt.be •

GSK BIOLOGICALS S..A./N.V. 1330 RIXENSART Wallonia www.gsk.com • •

GUERLAIN BENELUX S.A. 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels - • • • •

HENKEL BELGIUM S.A./N.V. 1080 BRUSSELS Brussels www.henkel.be • •

HERBALGEM 6690 VIELSAM Wallonia www.herbalgem.com •

HUCKERT'S INTERNATIONAL S.P.R.L. 1400 NIVELLES Wallonia www.huckerts.net •

HUTRADE 1330 RIXENSART Wallonia www.hutrade.com • •

JBH INTERNATIONAL 1140 BRUSSELS Brussels www.jbh.be • •

JOHNSON & JOHNSON CONSUMER N.V. 2340 BEERSE Flanders www.jnjconsumer.be • •

JYB COSMETICS 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels www.jybcosmetics.com •

KAO BELGIUM N.V. 2270 HERENTHOUT Flanders - •

KEBAO 4500 BEN-AHIN Wallonia www.kebao.be • • •

KENOMAR 4040 HERSTAL Wallonia - • LABORATOIRES DE BIOLOGIE VEGETALE 7540 KAIN Wallonia www.yves-rocher.be • • • • YVES ROCHER LABORATOIRES EDMOND FROMONT 1080 BRUSSELS Brussels - •

LABORATOIRES FENIOUX BENELUX 1410 WATERLOO Wallonia www.laboratoiresfenioux.be •

LABORATOIRES LX SPRL 7060 SOIGNIES Wallonia - • • •

LANAFORM LANA ALLPEAK 4141 LOUVEIGNE Wallonia www.lanaform.com • •

LANOLINES STELLA 7700 MOUSCRON Wallonia www.lanolin-stella.com •

LES LABORATOIRES REPOUSS 1170 BRUSSELS Brussels - •

LES QUATRE SAISONS 4821 ANDRIMONT Wallonia - •

LIBINVEST 7130 BINCHE Wallonia www.libinvest.com •

LONZA VERVIERS 4800 PETIT-RECHAIN Wallonia www.lonza.com •

L'OREAL BELGILUX 1082 BRUSSELS Brussels www.loreal.com • • • •

L'OREAL LIBRAMONT 6800 RECOGNE Wallonia www.loreal.com • • • •

LOUISE PERFUMES & COSMETICS 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels www.louise-parfums.com • •

M. MOUREAU S.A. 1040 BRUSSELS Brussels - • • •

MARIE-FRANCE PIERRE 4000 LIEGE Wallonia www.mariefrancepierre.net • •

54 BELGIAN COSMETICS

TITLE ZIP CITY REGION SITE TOILETRIES CARE HAIR & SKIN DECORATIVE COSMETICS DECORATIVE FRAGANCES & PERFUMES & FRAGANCES

MC BRIDE 7730 ESTAIMPUIS Wallonia www.mcbride.co.uk • •

MÉANT VÉRONIQUE – NATURA VÉRO 4607 BERNEAU Wallonia www.naturavero.be • •

MICROBELCAPS 4000 LIEGE Wallonia www.microbelcaps.be •

MILEVA - LUMIBEAUTY 4020 JUPILLE-SUR-MEUSE Wallonia www.lumibeauty.com • •

MYLENE N.V. 2220 HEIST-OP-DEN-BERG Flanders www.mylene.be • • • •

NADINE SALEMBIER DIFFUSION 7780 COMINES Wallonia www.nadine-salembier.com •

NAILISA 4100 SERAING Wallonia www.nailisa.com •

NASOHA 1367 AUTRE-EGLISE Wallonia www.nasoha.be • •

NATUR’INOV 6120 JAMIOULX Wallonia - • •

NATURANE L’ANERIE D’ARDENNE 6600 BASTOGNE Wallonia www.naturanecosmetics.com • •

NUSKIN BELGIUM N.V. 1930 ZAVENTEM Flanders www.nuskin.com • • • •

NUTAMED 4400 FLEMALLE Wallonia www.nutamed.com •

NUTRIPHARM 4000 LIEGE Wallonia www.nutripharm.be •

NUXE BELGIUM S.A. 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels be.nuxe.com • • •

OBELIS 1030 BRUSSELS Brussels www.obelis.net • • • •

ONE LIFE 1348 LOUVAIN-LA-NEUVE Wallonia www.onelife-biofilmfree.com •

OSIMEX 1420 BRAINE-L’ALLEUD Wallonia - •

PANNOC CHEMIE N.V. 2250 OLEN Flanders www.pannoc.be • • •

PARFUMS CHRISTIAN DIOR S.A.B. 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels www.dior.com

PARFUMS GUY DELFORGE 5000 NAMUR -CITADELLE Wallonia www.delforge.com •

PASSIONS D’O SAVONNERIE ARTISANALE 5660 MARIEMBOURG Wallonia www.passionsdo.be • • •

PCS INNOTEC INTERNATIONAL N.V. 2480 DESSEL Flanders www.innotec-world.com •

PHYTESIA 4557 TINLOT Wallonia www.phytesia.com •

PIERRE FABRE BENELUX 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.pierre-fabre.be • • • •

PLAISIRS DU BAIN 7080 EUGIES Wallonia www.plaisirsdubain.be • •

PRANAROM INTERNATIONAL S.A. 7822 GHISLENGHIEN Wallonia www.pranarom.com • • •

PROCTER & GAMBLE 1853 STROMBEEK-BEVER Flanders www.pg.com • • •

PROFESSIONAILS N.V. 2900 SCHOTEN Flanders www.professionails.com • •

PRO-VERA 1420 BRAINE-L’ALLEUD Wallonia www.provera.biz •

PUIG BELUX S.A. 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.puig.com • • • •

RECKITT BENCKISER (BELGIUM) 1070 BRUSSELS Brussels www.rb.com • •

SARBEC BELUX S.A. 7730 ESTAIMPUIS Wallonia www.sarbec.com • • • •

SATIVALL 6530 THUIN Wallonia www.sativall.com • •

SAVONNERIES BRUXELLOISES 1020 BRUSSELS Brussels www.savonneries.be •

SCHNEIDER TANJA 4760 BULLANGE Wallonia www.stutenmilch.be • •

55 DIRECTORY OF COMPANIES

TITLE ZIP CITY REGION SITE TOILETRIES CARE HAIR & SKIN DECORATIVE COSMETICS DECORATIVE FRAGANCES & PERFUMES & FRAGANCES

SEADERM INTERNATIONAL 1000 BRUSSELS Brussels www.seaderm.com • •

SECONDE NATURE 1340 OTTIGNIES Wallonia www.seconde-nature.eu •

SEMSICO 1020 BRUSSELS Brussels www.semsico.com •

SHISEIDO DEUTSCHLAND G.M.B.H. 1180 BRUSSELS Brussels www.shiseido.be • • • •

SILVER GENERATION 1400 NIVELLES Wallonia www.smartlifetime.com • •

SOL’ESTA 5170 BOIS-DE-VILLERS Wallonia - •

SOPRODAL N.V. 3583 PAAL Flanders www.soprodal.com • •

SRS INTERNATIONAL 1040 BRUSSELS Brussels www.srs-solution.com •

SYGIBEL 1050 BRUSSELS Brussels www.delbove-cosmetics.com • •

TARADON LABORATORY 1480 TUBIZE Wallonia www.taradon-laboratory.com • • •

TEONIA 1200 BRUSSELS Brussels www.evocure.com •

UNILEVER S.A./N.V. 1190 BRUSSELS Brussels www.unilever.be • • •

VAN MELLO ETS 7860 LESSINES Wallonia www.vanmello.com • VANDEPUTTE SAVONNERIE- 7700 MOUSCRON Wallonia www.vandeputte.com • ZEEPFABRIEK S.A. VEMEDIA CONSUMER HEALTH 9050 GENT Flanders www.vemedia.com • • WARENDORFER PFERDE BALSAM 4630 SOUMAGNE Wallonia www.wpbgroup.eu • • • GROUP WORLD NATURAL CARE 1140 BRUSSELS Brussels www.wncare.com • •

YCHANDO - DOTRIMONT CHANTAL 4550 NANDRIN Wallonia www.ychando.be • • •

56 BELGIAN COSMETICS

FIGURES & CHARTS

FIGURE 1 MAIN COSMETICS MARKETS IN EUR BILLIONS (2015) 8

FIGURE 2 BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY PRODUCT CATEGORY IN EUROPE AND BELGIUM (2015) 9

FIGURE 3 BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY DISTRIBUTION CHANNEL IN BELGIUM, IN EUR THOUSANDS (2014) 10

FIGURE 4 BELGIAN COSMETICS EXPORTS FROM 2010 TO 2015, IN EUR BILLIONS 13

FIGURE 5 COSMETICS EXPORTS BY COUNTRY IN 2015 13

FIGURE 6 BREAKDOWN OF BELGIAN EXPORTS PER CONTINENT IN 2010 AND 2015 13

FIGURE 7 TOP 10 BELGIAN CUSTOMERS, IN EUR MILLIONS (2010, 2015) 14

FIGURE 8 BREAKDOWN OF EXPORTS BY PRODUCT CATEGORY (2015) 14

57

THANK YOU THANK YOU

The Belgian Foreign Trade Agency wishes to thank the following contributors to this publication:

FPS Foreign Affairs

Flanders Investment & Trade

Wallonia Export - Investment Agency

Brussels Invest & Export

DETIC

essenscia

Cosmetics Europe

as well as the companies which have kindly agreed to give a testimonial.

60

Belgian Foreign Trade Agency Rue Montoyer 3 1000 Brussels Belgium T +32 2 206 35 11 [email protected] www.abh-ace.be

FPS Foreign Affairs, Foreign Trade and Development Cooperation Rue des Petits Carmes 15 1000 Brussels Belgium T +32 2 501 81 11 diplomatie.belgium.be

Flanders Investment & Trade Boulevard du Roi Albert II 37 1030 Brussels Belgium T +32 2 504 87 11 www.flandersinvestmentandtrade.com

Wallonia Export - Investment Agency Place Sainctelette 2 1080 Brussels Belgium T +32 2 421 82 11 www.awex.be

Brussels Invest & Export Avenue Louise 500/4 1050 Brussels Belgium T +32 2 800 40 00 www.invest-export.irisnet.be