Journal of Hygienic Engineering and Design

Review paper UDC 641.568(497.5)

GASTRONOMY OF ISLAND

Pavao Ivić1*

1University of Applied Sciences Baltazar Zaprešić, Branch campus , Augusta Šenoe 29, 23210 Biograd na Moru,

*e-mail: [email protected]

Abstract Gastronomy is an important form of cultural distinc- oped. Today, the island of Pag is famous for its breed- tiveness of a country. In the age of selective forms of ing of sheep and goat meat and dairy products. , more attention is paid to emphasizing a coun- Pag cheese production has changed much in the last try’s indigenous gastronomic offer. 30 years. Monopoly over its production took over three The island of Pag is since long ago known as an island cheese factories, while production in households has of sheep breeding. Due to its geographic location di- drop to minimum, and its slowly falling into past. Now rectly beneath the Velebit Mountain, agroecological Pag cheese production are investing more resources, factors for pasture are quite unique. North wind from adopting new technologies and new knowledge, and the Velebit Mountain (“Bura”) spreads sea salt all over more effort and resources are invested in its conver- pasturages, and as a result, both sheep milk and cheese gence to masses of consumers. from Pag have distinctive traits. The signs “Croatian A key role in bringing the product to masses has pro- Quality” and “Croatian” on these products from the is- motion, which is a form of mass communication that land of Pag imply Croatian autochthonous tradition. can be considered as vital marketing function, al- Today, gastronomy is considered an important part of though the promotion is only one phase of market- preserving the cultural wealth of the country, in this ing which aims to inform potential customers about case the island of Pag. Besides the well-known and re- the product in order to obtain higher demand for that nowned Pag cheese, gastronomic offer also includes product. Promotion is the sum of the activities through lamb, cottage cheese and other produces, which makes which the company seeks to familiarize consumers this island an exceptional and rich gastro-destination. with its products with the help of communicative me- dia and personal and impersonal persuasion [1]. Key words: Gastronomy, Island of Pag, Cheese. Promotion has effect on demand because it turns the need into a desire that with the purchasing power ex- ceeds to demand [2, 3]. Successful promotion often 1. Introduction makes the difference between successful and unsuc- One such “trademark” of our country is Pag cheese, cessful products and companies, directly or indirectly which is actually a sheep side product on the island of facilitates the exchange of convincing the target group Pag and the basics food of the poor shepherds on the to accept certain product. This work has the theme of island. However, this product now it stands side by side promoting indigenous gastronomy, on the example with one of the most famous French and Swiss chees- of Pag cheese, and will show what kind of attitude es, it is of respected and well-known specialty, and one towards the promotion have three existing cheese of the most famous indigenous gastronomic products manufacturers on the island, how to invest in the pro- of our country. motion, and which promotion instruments are mostly used, as well as point out potential flaws. The island of Pag is one of the largest Croatian islands. Because of its location, below the Velebit mountain, it is exposed to frequent salty winds that cause specific 2. Island Pag and its culinary riches vegetation on the island. Given that only sheep could take advantage of the small grass which is present on The island of Pag is one of the largest Croatian islands the island, during centuries sheep breeding was devel- (Figure 1). It is the fifth largest island in Croatia, and

45 Journal of Hygienic Engineering and Design along coastline of 302,47 km is the most coast devel- serving and consumption of food. Concept of catering oped island in Croatia. The appearance of the island covers all issues related to quality, quantity and meth- is one of its specialties. That island is very long, more ods of food preparation. In a narrow sense, it is the than 60 km, and very narrow, 2 to 9.5 km. art of eating, which in itself includes many arts such as creative adaptation or invention of culinary recipes choices of foods and ways of cooking and serving. It can also be considered and applied as art and falls in service activities. Given that the concept of a good meal varies according to geographical regions and social classes, excellent catering can be considered as an interdisciplinary sci- ence that encompasses: anthropology, biology, agron- omy, history, psychology, sociology and philosophy. The basic elements of cooking and crafts are: • Culture dishes and flavors. Figure 1. Geographical location of the island of Pag • Culture - looking dishes. • Culture taste. The first records of Pag are from the Roman era. The • Cultivating environment where food is served. earliest name for the island, Cissa (Kiss), was recorded in the works of the Roman writer Pliny in the first cen- The gastronomic offer of some country today is cele- tury, and probably have Illyrian origin. Later, the Croats brated as one of the key elements of preserving the changed its name to Caska, and the settlement named cultural identity of the country, so many efforts are be- like this still exists in the Pag bay. Today’s name for the ing done to preserve and promote indigenous gastro- island originated from the Latin word “pagus” which nomic products. means “village”. Thanks to its position just below the Croatian gastronomy is heterogeneous and is known Velebit mountain, throughout the year there is a sup- as the gastronomy of various regions. Its modern ply of fresh and clean continental air, which is benefi- roots date back to Proto-Slavic and ancient times. The cial to the development of agriculture on the island as differences in the choice of ingredients and prepara- well as the growth of low vegetation, which is the basic tion methods are most obvious on the mainland and food for sheeps. coastal regions. The continental gastronomy is charac- The inhabitants of island Pag has highest revenue in- terized by the earlier Proto-Slavic and the more recent come from tourism, followed by agriculture. As the contacts with the more famous gastronomic orders of foundation of agricultural activities on the island, farm- today - Hungarian, Viennese and Turkish. The coastal ing stands out, especially sheeps breeding and pro- region is characterized by the influence of the: Greeks, duction. Sheep production is based on high quality, Romans, Illyrians and later Mediterranean gastronomy selected, alternative to mass production of meat and - Italian and French. dairy products. The most famous island specialties are: Many Croatian traditional festivities are associated with lamb, cheese, cottage cheese and ham. food, regardless of whether they relate to labor (crop Lamb has always been a brand of the island. Due to its harvesting or threshing, grape harvest and christening special taste and high quality, today we can find it in all of wine, the completion of houses), religion (mostly the restaurants around the Croatia and the world. With catholic Christmas, Easter, pilgrimages, celebration the lamb, far more famous is the cheese, which is high- days of local patron saints), or at significant moments ly prominent among the world cheeses. Less known in an individual’s life (baptism, wedding, birthday, etc.). are dairy product made from sheep’s milk, like curd. Some festivities are public, such as the Dionysian St. Martin, who is celebrated on farms, in wine cellars and restaurants, while others are almost exclusively with- 2.1 Gastronomy - research in the family (weddings, christenings, Christmas, New Gastronomy can be defined as (1) “Culinary profession, Year, Easter, etc.). knowledge of different foods and ways of preparation” Every holiday is characterized by a specific dish. A stew and (2), the “Cult of selected food and culinary skills”. of pork and potatoes eaten on pilgrimages and fairs, Another definition says that gastronomy is “Knowledge cod is prepared for Christmas eve and Big Friday, pork of food, preparing meals, select beverages and serving is eaten on New Year’s eve, donuts are an inseparable guests”. part of carnival festivities, and in the south they pre- Catering in a broader sense means the relationship be- pare a similar cake, “hrostule”. Ham and boiled eggs tween culture and food, as well as the art of preparing, with green vegetables are served at Easter, while

46 Journal of Hygienic Engineering and Design

­desserts comprise traditional cakes (e.g. pinca). Kulen, cheese. The traditional way of producing this cheese goose are served on St. Martin, while turkey and other has remained to this day almost unchanged. The only poultry and cabbage at Christmas. difference is extinction of making cheese “on hand”, introduction of the mold, and use of pasteurization in 2.2 Term autochthonic in gastronomy Pag cheese industrial production. Cottage cheese can be purchased during the winter and spring months. Autochthonous characteristic is of one who is native to Due to high demand, old cheese is rarely found. or characteristic of what is indigenous (Greek = auto- Cottage cheese (figure 2) is much softer and lighter khthonos of the country). than the mature (old) cheese. Autochthonous is one that has no predecessors (popu- lation, ethnic groups, etc.); indigenous, original, which is self-sown, native (of plants), formed without foreign influence (culture). The term “ autochthonic” in gastronomy is used for traditional foods, those that are made from ingredi- ents that are traditionally found in an area from where a particular dish originated. Or in another words this term is dedicated to meals that are prepared by exact recipes and served in a certain way and in accordance with the customs of the region.

2.3 Pag lamb The island of Pag is known for its sheep farming, which thanks to the specific (scarce) diet have a distinct taste. Pag sheep never live indoors. All their short life is spent outdoors. Shortly after the lambs are bring forth their feed is combined with young grass salted with “bora”, and very strong wind. On Pag lawns grass is varied, but usually not characterized by an abundance of water as Figure 2. Pag cheese much as nutrients. Pasko herbs and low shrubs smell good, and is often curative, such as: sage (nightingale), 2.5 Pag curd Helichrysum, routes, “bršake”, “mliča”, “Zelenice”, “Tusc”, Since the sheep milk is rich in milk fat, after making and many others herbs and plants with small leaves cheese from “surotve” that remained after heating and growth. while stiring gently till boiling occurs allocate the oth- Because of this way of eating, lamb has a distinct taste, er, second cheese, which is called the Pag curd. It is soft put in the words of connoisseurs and gastronomes, and soluble and eaten as a spread or topping cakes reason that makes the best lamb in Croatia. and pancakes. “Surotva” in which the fringe left was used as a beverage, and surota without skirts is used 2.4 Pag cheese as pigs feed, which gave special characteristics to Pag ham, another food specialty of the island. Because of the centuries - old way of making cheese, it ‘s a trademark of the island Pag, specialty known not Another product from sheep’s milk is butter, which is a only in Croatia but also throughout Europe and the rule corn mashing smote curd which had been added world. The specialty of this cheese is the basic raw ma- to the water. After a long preparation of curd on the sur- terial - milk sheep. This milk has a special flavor because face swims the finest butter which is smeared on bread. it contains ingredients that sheep milk from other ar- Once it is boiled, cake butter is obtained, and can be eas have not. The island of Pag is a rugged, stingy grass added to, spice porridge or rice and other dishes of Pag. and covered with layers of salt that wind throws during Today, the butter is no longer “true” because the tradi- the winter storms. Because of this mix of grass and vari- tional way of making cheese in households is declining. ety of flavors with the addition of sea salt, which sheep Most of the production of cheese and curd have taken graze, their milk taste highly and specifically. three major production manufacturers on the island. Cheese production on the island of Pag is dating from 2.6 Prosciutto the time of development of sheep on the island of Pag. Still in 1774, the travel writer Alberto Fortis in his In addition to lamb, cheese and sheep products, Pag is Journey through wrote that the most import- also known for its Prosciutto. Production of indigenous ant Pag products are: sea salt, sage honey, wool, and dishes is in decline because fewer people are farming pigs.

47 Journal of Hygienic Engineering and Design

Pork production on the island of Pag, by the end of the - Thus the island of Pag has long been known as an is- 19th century has had an important role. Now with ham land of sheeps. Due to its geographical position, just production are mainly dealing the inhabitants of the below the Velebit mountain, on it are being developed southern part of the island, in the villages Dinjiška and “special conditions” for sheep grazing. Exposed to fre- Vlašići. Rarely it can be found in the other places. quent and severe shocks from Velebit “bora”, island is covered with low vegetation, is rugged and sprin- Pag prosciutto is considered as a very high quality, kle with salt storm that scatters through the winter. mostly because of home salting is used, or more pre- Precisely because such a diet Pag sheep is special. cisely island salt, and its dried in the strong winter Lamb has always been an attribute of the best and storm. Pag prosciutto, due to extreme salinity, is rarely highest quality meat in Croatia. used alone as a food, and today has become a delicacy that is served on special occasions, usually with cheese. - For the same reason, and sheep milk is particular. This milk provides the basis for making the best known and 2.7 Research of tourists reviews - island Pag gastro most esteemed culinary specialties of the island, and offer you could say one of the most respected specialty of entire Croatian - Pag cheese. As part of the research for attitude of tourists toward gastro offer of the island, I would like to present an- - This cheese was being prepared in households across swers from a questionnaire from 2012, where sample the island, but only in the last 15 years is driven out of 100 respondents who were stopped at the exit from by serious industrial cheese production by the three the island, in particular, at the bridge. The survey ques- larger islands cheesemakers. They has started to invest tions led to the following results and attitude of tour- in new technologies based on new knowledge. Today, ists towards gastronomic offer (Table 1). the cheese production is relatively high, and the de- mand for this delicacy is certainly there. Table 1. Questions for tourists on the island of Pag / 2012th - Although awareness and importance of promotion year - sample 100 tourists is there, still these efforts are underrepresented in the QUESTIONS ANSWERS (%) cheesemakers business, with the exception of “Gligora” dairy that used every element of promotion and in- Is this your first 35 65 vest a lot of effort and capital into the promotion. The time on Pag? (Yes) (No) remaining two cheese manufacturers exploit some elements of promotion while other elements were ne- Are you familiar with the 62 38 gastronomic offer Pag has? (Yes) (No) glected, and seems to consider the reputation of the cheese itself as sufficient promotion. Although the Pag Did you consumed 85 15 cheese delicacy is known throughout the Republic of Pag cheese? (Yes) (No) Croatian territory from the time when production was Did you consumed 58 42 limited to private households and as such is unique, local lamb? (Yes) (No) today in the time of increasing competition in the market, there is an existential need for promotion as a Did you consumed 25 75 means of survival in a saturated market. Pag curd? (Yes) (No)

How you would describe 87 13 island Pag cuisine? (Exceptional) (Good) 4. References

Will you visit 86 14 [1] Kotler P., Keller L. K. (2008). Marketing management (12 Ed.). Pag again? (Yes) (No) (in Croatian). Mate d.o.o., Zagreb, Croatia. [2] Previšić J., Ozretić D. Đ. (2007). Marketing basics (in Croatian). The result of the survey shows that tourists experi- Adverta, Zagreb, Croati, pp. 51-73. enced great pleasure from the island gastronomic of- [3] Meler M. (2002). Marketing (in Croatian). Faculty of fer, in relation to autochthony and specificity. Economics, Osijeku, Croatia.

3. Conclusions - One of the basic cultural characteristics of any country or region is also its culinary wealth and as such should be nurtured. Croatia as a country has a diverse gastron- omy that varies from region to region. And within each region there are also differences and special features that indicate a specific local environment.

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