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Microbiology and Technology of Fermented Foods Robert W. Hutkins Microbiology and Technology of Fermented Foods The IFT Press series reflects the mission of the Institute of Food Technologists—advancing the science and technology of food through the exchange of knowledge. Developed in part- nership with Blackwell Publishing, IFT Press books serve as essential textbooks for academic programs and as leading edge handbooks for industrial application and reference. Crafted through rigorous peer review and meticulous research, IFT Press publications represent the latest, most significant resources available to food scientists and related agriculture profes- sionals worldwide. IFT Book Communications Committee Ruth M. Patrick Dennis R. Heldman Theron W. Downes Joseph H. Hotchkiss Marianne H. Gillette Alina S. Szczesniak Mark Barrett Neil H. Mermelstein Karen Banasiak IFT Press Editorial Advisory Board Malcolm C. Bourne Fergus M. Clydesdale Dietrich Knorr Theodore P. Labuza Thomas J. Montville S. Suzanne Nielsen Martin R. Okos Michael W. Pariza Barbara J. Petersen David S. Reid Sam Saguy Herbert Stone Kenneth R. Swartzel Microbiology and Technology of Fermented Foods Robert W. Hutkins Titles in the IFT Press series • Biofilms in the Food Environment (Hans P. Blaschek, Hua Wang, and Meredith E. Agle) • Food Carbohydrate Chemistry (Ronald E. Wrolstad) • Food Irradiation Research and Technology (Christopher H. Sommers and Xuetong Fan) • High Pressure Processing of Foods (Christopher J. Doona, C. Patrick Dunne, and Florence E. Feeherry) • Hydrocolloids in Food Processing (Thomas R. Laaman) • Multivariate and Probabilistic Analyses of Sensory Science Problems (Jean-Francois Meullenet, Hildegarde Heymann, and Rui Xiong) • Nondestructive Testing of Food Quality (Joseph Irudayaraj and Christoph Reh) • Preharvest and Postharvest Food Safety: Contemporary Issues and Future Directions (Ross C. Beier, Suresh D. Pillai, and Timothy D. Phillips, Editors; Richard L. Ziprin, As- sociate Editor) • Regulation of Functional Foods and Nutraceuticals: A Global Perspective (Clare M. Hasler) • Sensory and Consumer Research in Food Product Development (Howard R. Moskowitz, Jacqueline H. Beckley, and Anna V.A. Resurreccion) • Thermal Processing of Foods: Control and Automation (K.P. Sandeep) • Water Activity in Foods: Fundamentals and Applications (Gustavo V. Barbosa-Canovas, Anthony J. Fontana Jr., Shelly J. Schmidt, and Theodore P. Labuza) ©2006 Blackwell Publishing All rights reserved Blackwell Publishing Professional 2121 State Avenue, Ames, Iowa 50014, USA Orders: 1-800-862-6657 Office: 1-515-292-0140 Fax: 1-515-292-3348 Web site: www.blackwellprofessional.com Blackwell Publishing Ltd 9600 Garsington Road, Oxford OX4 2DQ, UK Tel.: 144 (0)1865 776868 Blackwell Publishing Asia 550 Swanston Street, Carlton, Victoria 3053, Australia Tel.: 161 (0)3 8359 1011 Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Blackwell Publishing, provided that the base fee of $.10 per copy is paid directly to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923. For those organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by CCC, a separate system of payments has been arranged. The fee codes for users of the Transactional Reporting Service are ISBN-13: 978-0-8138-0018-9; ISBN-10: 0-8138-0018-8/2006 $.10. First edition, 2006 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Hutkins, Robert W. (Robert Wayne) Microbiology and technology of fermented foods / Robert W. Hutkins. —1st ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-0-8138-0018-9 (alk. paper) ISBN-10: 0-8138-0018-8 (alk. paper) 1. Fermented foods—Textbooks. 2. Fermented foods—Microbiology—Textbooks. I. Title. TP371.44.H88 2006 664Ј.024—dc22 2006002149 The last digit is the print number: 987654321 Contents Preface ix Acknowledgments xi 1 Introduction 3 2 Microorganisms and Metabolism 15 3 Starter Cultures 67 4 Cultured Dairy Products 107 5 Cheese 145 6 Meat Fermentation 207 7 Fermented Vegetables 233 8 Bread Fermentation 261 9 Beer Fermentation 301 10 Wine Fermentation 349 11 Vinegar Fermentation 397 12 Fermentation of Foods in the Orient 419 Index 457 Preface This project started out innocently In organizing this book, I have followed enough, with the simple goal of providing the basic outline of the course I teach, a resource to students interested in the mi- Microbiology of Fermented Foods. Stu- crobiology of fermented foods. Since dents in this course, and hopefully readers 1988, when I first developed a course in of this text, are expected to have had a ba- fermentation microbiology at the Univer- sic course in microbiology,at minimum, as sity of Nebraska, there has not been a suit- well as courses in food microbiology and able student text on this subject that I food science. An overview of microorgan- could recommend to my students. Peder- isms involved in food fermentations, their son’s Microbiology of Food Fermenta- physiological and metabolic properties, tions had last been published in 1979 and and how they are used as starter culture Fermented Foods, by A.H. Rose, was pub- provides a foundation for the succeeding lished in 1982. Brian Wood’s two volume chapters. Nine chapters are devoted to the Microbiology of Fermented Foods, pub- major fermented foods produced around lished in 1998 (revised from an earlier the world,for which I have presented both 1985 edition), is an excellent resource and microbiological and technological features is considered to be one of the most thor- for the manufacture of these products. I ough texts on fermented foods, but it and confess that some subjects were consid- other handbooks are generally beyond the ered, but then not included, those being scientific scope (and budget) of most stu- the indigenous fermented foods and the dents in a one-semester-long course. Fi- natural fermentations that occur during nally, there are many excellent resources processing of various “non-fermented” devoted to specific fermented foods. The foods, such as cocoa beans and coffee recently published (2004) Cheese Chem- beans. These topics are thoroughly cov- istry, Physics and Microbiology (edited by ered in the above mentioned texts. Fox, McSweeney,Cogan, and Guinee) is an One of my goals was to provide a histor- outstanding reference text, as are Jack- ical context for how the manufacture of son’s Wine Science Principles, Practice, fermented foods evolved,while at the same and Perceptions and Steinkraus’ Industri- time emphasizing the most current sci- alization of Indigenous Fermented Foods. ence. To help accomplish this goal I have However, their coverage is limited to only included separate entries, called “Boxes,” those particular foods. that describe,in some detail,current topics I hope this effort achieves the dual pur- that pertain to the chapter subjects. Some poses for which it is intended, namely to of these boxes are highly technical, be used as a text book for a college course whereas others simply provide sidebar in- in fermentation microbiology and as a gen- formation on topics somewhat apart from eral reference on fermented food microbi- microbiology or fermentation. Hopefully, ology for researchers in academia, indus- the reader will find them interesting and a try,and government. pleasant distraction from the normal text. ix x Preface Finally,in an effort to make the text eas- Each chapter includes a bibliography from ier to read, I made a conscious decision to which most source materials were ob- write the narrative portion of the book tained.The box entries, however, are fully with minimal point-by-point referencing. referenced. Acknowledgments I am grateful to the many colleagues who Shoaf, Jennifer Huebner, Jun Goh, John reviewed chapters and provided me with Rupnow, and the SMB group.The editorial excellent suggestions and comments. Any staff at Blackwell Press, especially Mark questionable or inaccurate statements, Barrett and Dede Pederson, have been in- however, are due solely to the author (and credibly patient, for which I am very ap- please let me know).To each of the follow- preciative. ing reviewers, I thank you again: Andy I thank my wife, Charla, and my kids, Benson, Larry Beuchat, Lloyd Bullerman, Anna and Jacob, for being such good Rich Chapin, Mark Daeschel, Lisa Durso, sports during the course of this project.At Joe Frank, Nancy Irelan, Mark Johnson, least now you know why I was busier than Jake Knickerbocker, David Mills, Dennis usual these past two years. Romero, Mary Ellen Sanders, Uwe Sauer, Finally, I would not be in a position of Randy Wehling,and Bart Weimer. writing an acknowledgment section,much For the generous use of electron micro- less this entire text, were it not for my graphs, photos, and other written materi- graduate mentors, Robert Marshall, Larry als used in this text, I thank Kristin Ahrens, McKay, Howard Morris, and Eva Kashket. Andreia Bianchini, Jeff Broadbent, Lloyd Role models are hard to find, and I was for- Bullerman, Rich Chapin (Empyrean Ales), tunate to have had four. My greatest inspi- Lisa Durso, Sylvain Moineau, Raffaele de ration for writing this book, however, has Nigris, John Rupnow,Albane de Vaux, Bart been the many students, past and present, Weimer,Jiujiang Yu,and Zhijie Yang. that have made teaching courses and con- For their encouragement and support ducting research on fermented foods mi- during the course of this project, special crobiology such a joy and privilege. thanks are offered to Jim Hruska, Kari xi Microbiology and Technology of Fermented Foods 1 Introduction “When our souls are happy, they talk about food.” Charles Simic, poet Fermented Foods and Human History than the raw materials from which they were made. Despite the “discovery” that fermented Fermented foods were very likely among the foods tasted good and were well preserved, it first foods consumed by human beings.This was must have taken many years for humans to fig- not because early humans had actually planned ure out how to control or influence conditions on or had intended to make a particular fer- to consistently produce fermented food prod- mented food, but rather because fermentation ucts.