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Salzburg & Salzburgerland

Why Go? ...... 218 One of ’s smallest provinces, Salzburgerland is proof ...... 243 that size really doesn’t matter. Well, not when you have Mo- zart, Maria von Trapp and the 600-year legacy of the prince- Filzmoos...... 245 archbishops behind you. This is the land that grabbed the Hohe Tauern . world spotlight and shouted ‘Visit Austria!’ with Julie An- National Park. . . . . 246 drews skipping joyously down the mountainsides. This is Grossglockner . indeed the land of crisp apple strudel, dancing marionettes Road...... 247 and high-on-a-hilltop castles. This is the Austria of your Zell am See...... 250 wildest childhood dreams. Krimml...... 255 Salzburg is every bit as grand as you imagine it: a baroque . . . . . 256 masterpiece, a classical-music legend and Austria’s spiritual heartland. But it is just the prelude to the region’s sensa- tional natural beauty. Just outside the city, the landscape is etched with deep ravines, glinting ice caves, karst plateaux Best Places and mountains of myth – in short, the kind of alpine gor- to Eat geousness that no well-orchestrated symphony or yodelling ¨¨Magazin (p234) nun could ever quite capture. ¨¨Gasthof Schloss Aigen (p232) ¨¨Obauer (p244) When to Go ¨¨Prices peak in family-friendly alpine resorts during ¨¨Mayer’s (p254) winter, from December to early April. Salzburg twinkles at ¨¨Lutter & Wegner (p258) its Christmas markets. In January orchestras strike up at Mozartwoche, while hot-air balloons glide above Filzmoos’ summits. Best Places ¨¨Summer sees room prices soar in Salzburg and nosedive to Stay in alpine resorts from June to September. Book months ¨¨Haus Ballwein (p228) ahead for the colossal feast of opera, classical music and drama that is the Salzburg Festival from late July to August. ¨ ¨Hotel & Villa Auersperg Head for high-altitude hiking in the limestone Tennengebirge (p228) and Dachstein ranges, and the glacier-capped Hohe Tauern ¨¨Bio-Hotel Hammerhof National Park, or lakeside chilling in Zell am See. (p245) ¨¨Shoulder-season months April, May, October and ¨¨Pension Hubertus (p251) November bring few crowds and low room rates. Salzburg ¨¨Hoteldorf Grüner Baum hosts Easter classical-music festivals. (p258) #\

217 Linz (60km) 0 20 km e# 0 10 miles D

Sa l zac h Salzburg & Salzburgerland Salzburgerland & Salzburg GERM AN Y Salzburgerland & Salzburg

Gmunden \# /·A1

UPPERAUSTRIA

/·A8 Salzburg D Gaisberg #1 #^#4 R (1287m) Munich (München) Schloss #\ St Gilgen (50km) #3 Bad Reichenhall #\ R Hellbrunn /·A12 #\ Bad Ischl Untersberg #\ Hallein (1853m) Berchtes- #5 Bad Dürrnberg 66#\ 66Graz Innsbruck gaden

TYROL Lofer #\ (85km) #\ #\ Golling (65km)D #\ Kufstein Königssee D

#\ St Johann #\ Wörgl in Tirol STYRIA Werfen #2 Filzmoos \# Kitzbühel #8 Saalfelden #\ #\ &   Rossbrand R RBischofsmütze

66 #\ #\ (1770m) (2454m) Saalbach #\ Sal b ü h e l e r A Schladming K i t z l p e n Zell St Veit ns #\ #\ r #\ am See En ge

9 /· zb Pinzgauer # #\ A10 dmin Schwarzach St Johann chla rn Spaziergang Bruck S Taue

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Grossglockner e c #\ i Tauern Pass #8 #6 e Krimml Road n e /· r

r 99 w Bad 6666Felbertauern- Edelweiss Spitze 6 a l T #\ tunnel (2571m) a Hofgastein Mauterndorf Grossvenediger R l #\ Hohe Tauern n #\ 4444444(36744m) R 44w 4444 #7 Bad Gastein National Park R Mur d Stubnerkogel Au w

Ta w Grossglockner R (2246m) Hi R (R t (3798m) ue osch Tauern a Heiligenblut gh Kaiser- #\ Sh

i lw r Tunnel w Franz-Josefs- nb u l 444444444444#\ 4444444a eu 4 Matrei in t li

Höhe (2369m) y w a t l h Osttirol e) C s n e ghts 6666ar 6 444 44 EAST TYROL (OSTTIROL) Lienz #\ CARINTHIA #\ Spittal an 66666666der Drau

Villach #\ IT AL Y

#\66 R Salzburg & Salzburgerland Highlights 1 Surveying the baroque 4 Singing ‘Do-Re-Mi’ in the 7 Bathing in the healing, cityscape of Salzburg (p218) gardens of Schloss Mirabell in radon-laced waters of Bad from the heights of Festung Salzburg (p218) . Gastein (p256) . Hohensalzburg .. 5 Donning a boiler suit for a 8 Hearing the thunder of 2 Going subzero in the ride at the Salzwelten salt mine Europe’s highest waterfall, frozen depths of Eisriesenwelt in Bad Dürrnberg (p241) .. Krimmler Wasserfälle, in in Werfen (p243) . 6 Buckling up for an Krimml (p255) . 3 Getting drenched by alpine roller-coaster ride on 9 Being awed by alpine views the fountains at Schloss Grossglockner Road (p246) . on the high-altitude Pinzgauer Hellbrunn (p240) . Spaziergang (p253) .