Prepping Your Piece of (non-stripping)

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1. Cover your work surface with a drop cloth. A heavy canvas painter’s drop cloth is your best bet. It’s stiff and thick and will protect your table or floor from spills.

2. Remove all hardware and place in a baggie and label it. You might even want to take pictures to identify what goes where.

3. Clean your piece.

TIP: Since I often work on furniture in my kitchen, the drop cloth can be easily cleaned after sanding with my Hoover Linx vacuum. I've even been known to pick it up and vacuum my kitchen island!

Cleaning Solution Options

Mineral Spirits – for cleaning oil based finishes (never use on water based).

Denatured Alcohol – to clean water based or oil based finishes. Use a green Scotch Pad and lightly scrub the surface. If it is really gunky you might want to use or a metal scraper (careful not to mar the surface)

Vinegar & Water – a great natural cleaner and deodorizer.

50/50 mixture of Thinner and Acetone - for tough clean ups. Wipe on, wipe off with rags or for very tough jobs, use 0000 steel wool to scrub off.

TSP – to remove stains, nicotine, and grease. Mix with warm water, gently scrub with green scrub pad or rag (depending on how delicate your surface is). Wipe dry with paper towel or clean rag. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection. No need to rinse.

Krud Kutter is a biodegradable, non-toxic cleaner/degreaser.

For Tough Smells: Krud Kutter, OdoBan, vinegar and water, mineral spirits, odor/stain blocking primer, , Ozium spray from a car parts store. There is even a Glade additive. Some smells may be absorbed by newspaper and/or if you put your piece out in the sun for a bit.

TIP: Using a green scrubbie can help remove shine and scrub off any crud.

4. Inspect your piece. Look for scratches, holes and dents that need repair.

Apply stainable wood filler to the damaged part of the wood being careful not to overfill. Use a putty knife to scrape away excess wood filler and allow it to dry. Carefully sand it down level after it dries with 180 or 200 grit . Finish up with a 400 grit for a smoother finish if you are painting, no more than 180 if you are staining. If you are replacing any hardware on your furniture, fill in the old holes where the previous hardware was attached. Scrape flush to the board with a putty knife and let dry. Reapply if needed.

5. Sand to level joints and smooth the surface and to provide a uniform texture that will help the surface to take stains evenly and provide a tooth for the finish to grab onto.

NOTE: The grit you use will depend on what type of sanding is needed. Learn the difference between the grit numbers - the higher the number, the finer the sand paper. 80 grit is very course. 400 grit is for fine finishing. If you sand down to the bare wood, finishing the surface with 400 grit may smooth out the surface too much and cause the stain not to soak in enough to give you the desired look. If you are having problems with your stain not soaking in like you'd envisioned, it may be the surface is too smooth.

TIP: No more than 180 grit is recommended by most furniture re-finishers because it allows the grain to receive the stain well.

Electric Hand - For big jobs I use the Ridgid Hand Sander - It does a good job, bags 90% of the dust, is easy to use and works quickly.

Sanding Block - Sanding blocks work well for small jobs and scuffing flat surfaces.

Sanding Sponge –Sanding sponges are easy to manage, work well on spindles and curved edges. It’s all a matter of preference and depends on what needs to be done.

Abrasive comparison for sanding sponges Grit Equivalent: Very-fine = 400 Grit, Fine = 320 Grit, Medium = 200 Grit, Coarse =100 Grit

Flexible Sanding Pads – These are thin flexible sanding pads that are great for spindles and contoured surfaces. The wrap around sanding sponges well if you need extra grip.

Sanding Cord - They are used to sand, clean, debur, or polish hard-to-reach areas.

Steel Wool - Use steel wool for cleaning, polishing, buffing and . 0000 or 000 are for smoothing a finish. 0 = Fine, 00 = Very Fine, 000 = Extra Fine, 0000 = Super Fine

TIP: Don't use steel wool on a piece that will have a water based finish. If any is left behind it may rust and ruin the look.

Remember to wear a dust mask if sanding or smoothing to prevent inhaling particles. This is where a hand sander with a bag comes in handy. Be aware that old paint may contain lead.

Tack Cloth – Use to remove dust after sanding (oil based tack cloth if using oil based finishes only).

Damp cloth – Use to remove dust after sanding (for water based finishes). For convenience, use disposable cloths.

Liquid Sander/Deglosser - Helps dull any paint, gloss or , preps the area for a new coat of paint or varnish and helps bond the new finish. It works well on intricate pieces getting into places that are nearly impossible to work with sandpaper alone. This does not smooth out a surface like traditional sand paper and is not sufficient for all finishes.

Use a clean cloth to apply it on a freshly cleaned surface and wait for the recommended amount of dry time. There's no scrubbing or clean up.

TIP: Wear nitrile gloves, eye protection and have good ventilation. This is a chemical. Consider using a respirator to protect your lungs. Prepping Your Piece of Furniture (Stripping)

Be sure to remove all hardware and scrape off loose paint before beginning.

Follow directions on your product on how to remove old paint or varnish safely. Following manufacturers’ directions can help you do a better job with considerably less effort.

NOTE: Older furniture may have lead-based paint, so if you choose strip your piece, always use proper safety measures. Wear safety gear to protect you from the toxic chemicals like protective gloves and a respiratory mask. Take your wood pieces outdoor when working on it, or if you are working on your wood pieces indoor, open the windows and turn on a fan for ventilation.

1. Using Chemicals to Strip Paint and Varnish

Chemical paint/varnish removers

Use Caution, this is nasty stuff! Most paint strippers are highly flammable, corrosive products. Work in a very well ventilated area, away from children and pets, and turn off all sources of flame and ignition. Wear skin and eye protection. A long sleeved shirt and rubber gloves for the skin and goggles or glasses with side shields should be used.

When dictated by the EPA regulations for your , a NIOSH approved respirator should be worn to protect the lungs and central nervous system from damage.

Apply the remover and scrape the paint off with a metal scraping . In some cases, it may wash away with water. Chemical-based paint/varnish removers come as a paste or a liquid called "paint removers" or "paint strippers."

Liquid Strippers

Liquid removers are best for removing multiple layers. The liquid dries quickly, so keep it in mind if working on large pieces. Liquids may work best on complicated or irregular areas. Use caution when using harsh chemicals.

Paste or Strippers

A gel or paste texture which allows you to apply thick amounts to strip many layers of paint/varnish from a surface with one application. These formulas cling and can be washed off along with the paint/varnish. When using wash-away varnish remover on furniture, don’t use too much water because it may damage the wood. Always follow the instructions on the label.

Spray Paint/Varnish Remover

Spray removers are easy to work with. They have added viscosity so it cling to the surface of your piece.

Foam Paint/Varnish Remover

Aerosol removers spray on as a foam and tend to be cheaper. They are easy to use on small projects with detailing.

Safer Eco Friendly Solutions

There are less toxic paint and varnish removers for people with allergies and sensitivities. They tend to be more expensive and less effective, but if you are trying to eliminate harsh chemicals in your home, the extra expense and effort may be worth it. Citristrip Paint & Varnish Stripping Gel is one of the most recommended strippers for those concerned about harsh smells or methylene chloride. From the company: fresh orange scent, contains no methylene chloride, strips multiple layers, stays active up to 24 hours, for both indoor & outdoor use, thick enough to use on vertical surfaces.

Soy Gel BLUE BEAR Paint & Urethane Stripper is the most recommended eco-friendly product from flippers. From the company: Very effective paint remover for , urethane, enamels, sealers, and many other , non-caustic, biodegradable, no toxic fumes. Removes multiple layers in one application. SAFE! No methylene chloride. Eco friendly. Safe for use indoor. Made with 100% American Grown Soybeans

Biodegradable Strypeeze – don’t confuse this with the original Strypeeze product that is a harsh chemical. From the company: Users who demand an environmentally safe remover will find plenty of cutting power with Biodegradable Strypeeze®. It contains no harsh chemicals or fumes and is safe to use indoors. It's perfect for stripping interior woodwork or wood floors, and can remove polyurethane and marine finishes too. Surfaces can be cleaned with scraper and water wash-off method.

Some refinishers suggest several hours or even over night for the eco-friendly strippers.

Application and Removal

*Always read and follow directions from the manufacturer and use caution. Remember to use eye and hand protection.

If you are brushing on a liquid paint stripper, paint it on in one direction and do not apply remover to areas where it has already been brushed. If you are spraying on your liquid stripper, be sure to apply according to the can’s directions.

You can sand your piece first to make the stripping easier, but be careful not to damage the wood surface.

Apply the chemical stripper and top it with plastic film to prevent the chemical from drying on the surface as you wait for it to work.

Allow the chemical to penetrate the paint/varnish for as long as the packaging instructions direct, which is usually between 20 and 30 minutes.

Test your progress by scraping at a small area. If the scraper reaches the bare wood, then the stripper is ready to be removed.

When applying the stripper, start in a small enough area that for easier manageability. You don't want to cover such a large area that the chemical dries before you can finish the job.

Once the chemical has softened the paint underneath, scrape off the paint with a putty knife. Be careful not to damage the surface by keeping the scraper level and don’t push too hard. Steel wood or a green scrubbie can take care of any leftovers. Apply a second coat of stripper if needed.

Once you have successfully removed the paint/varnish, clean the surface with fresh water. Allow the surface to dry and then sand it lightly.

Neutralize before painting: On any surfaces that have been chemically stripped of finish, be sure to neutralize any residual chemicals by wiping the surface with a 50/50 vinegar and water solution or mineral spirits prior to re-painting.

Stripping Detailed Surfaces

Gently scrub detailed areas with steel wool, a stiff toothbrush, steel wool, skewer, or a metal brush. Brass wire brushes are good for narrow spots as well. Be careful not to apply too much pressure or you can easily cause damage and lose definition. TIP: If your stripper gets goopy after you’ve scraped off your first layer, and you’re having a hard time knowing if you need to apply more stripper, just do a good wipe down with Mineral Spirits to get a fresh start and to see what need to be done from there.

2. Sanding Off Paint/Varnish

You can remove paint by using a power sander, but realize the top layer of the surface will be removed as you sand. This could damage any detailing.

Start with a course grit to remove the paint and then less course grit as you reach the wood and prepare it for paint or stain.

If you are staining the wood, don’t sand with a finish grit like 400 because the stain won’t penetrate as well on an extremely smooth surface.

3. Using Heat to Remove Paint/Varnish

A heat gun can be used to soften paint for scraping. Scrape the paint as soon as it is heated. Some heat guns come with a scraping attachment. Carefully control the heat gun, not lingering too long so that the surface burns.