TAKING FLIGHT Fresh-Washed WASHINGTON STATE BALANCE RIPENESS AND RESTRAINT

by Meg Houston Maker

reshness.” That word peppers Chinook 2015 Sauvignon Blanc, Sleight of Hand Cellars 2010 my tasting notes after a recent Yakima Valley ($19) A Bordeaux- Levitation , Columbia “Ftour of Washington State. style like a mouthful of Bosc Valley ($45) High-toned and fleshy, Let’s throw “vitality,” “focus” and and Anjou pear steeped in lime crackling with tart cherries and an “balance” into the mix, too. juice. A kick of flint and tingly acid-washed finish that lets it part- Although well known for acidity suggests pairing with fish ner with light meats and poultry. and , the state and sushi. is home to nearly 70 varieties, Dusted Valley 2013 Stained Tooth almost all own-rooted thanks to the dry Tranche 2015 Pink Pape Rosé, Syrah, Columbia Valley ($36) loess soils. Its 50,000 vineyard acres Blackrock Vineyard, Yakima Saturated with sweet red fruits make it America’s second-largest wine Valley ($20) This blend of but also edged by earth and acid, producer, yielding 16 million cases Grenache, Counoise and Cinsault wild game and green olives. Use annually. And with nearly 900 licensed is light and shimmery but packs it as you would a young Northern wineries, variety rules the day. a pop of strawberries, apple blos- Rhône Syrah. Washington’s vines soak up lots soms and white pepper. Serious, of sunshine during the long Pacific but also good for sipping. Gilbert Cellars 2014 Left Bank, Northwest growing season, but all that Columbia Valley ($24) This heat is balanced by high latitudes and Gramercy Cellars 2014 The Third Cabernet-dominant blend car- cooling breezes. Man Grenache, Columbia Valley ries seamless cherry fruit upon Bob Betz, MW, of Betz Family ($36) Fey light red but drenched in a silken body. Versatile and an Winery, says these conditions lead to glossy raspberry and cherry fruit. exceptional value. Also seek out “more structure and aromatic purity” A hit of cinnamon makes it a good the winery’s Cab Franc, in his revered Rhône- and Bordeaux- partner for tagines and spiced meats. and Grenache Rosé. style wines, allowing them to “deliver a supple but structured palate.” Syncline 2015 Carignan-Grenache, Alexandria Nicole 2013 Quarry David O’Reilly of Owen Roe, in the Horse Heaven Hills ($30) Carignan Butte, Destiny Ridge Vineyard, Yakima Valley, agrees. “You can always and Grenache combine forces, Horse Heaven Hills ($26) A ripen fruit because you have long, yielding peppery pink fruits and crowd-pleasing Bordeaux blend sunny days, but you still have natural flowers dressed in minty oregano. offering black and red stone balance,” he says. The result? Wines It’s perfect for lamb. fruits dusted with herbs and that are “obviously New World, but cocoa-y tannins. Great for slow- with natural acidity.” Betz Family 2014 Besoleil, roasted meats.

That makes them superlative Columbia Valley ($60) A blend of PHOTO: MEG HOUSTON MAKER gastronomy wines, friendly but also Grenache, Cinsault, Counoise and Owen Roe 2012 Cabernet refreshing. Below are just ten of my Mourvèdre that’s ablaze with rose Sauvignon, Red Willow Vineyard, favorites from recent tastings, mostly petals, tart strawberry, cherries 1973 Block, Yakima Valley ($75) from smaller producers: white, rosé and cracked pepper. Beautifully Grown in the storied Red Willow and red wines that strike that delicious crafted, it pairs broadly. Vineyard, this Cab mingles dark balance between ripeness and restraint. red fruits with cooling cypress. A wine for lovers of serious Cabernet.

Red Willow Vineyard located in the far western end of Yakima Valley AVA.

22 / the tasting panel / june 2017

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