InternationalLiving.com July 2019 Vol.40 No.3 INTERNATIONAL

LIVINGSINCE 1979

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

PAGE 20 : Four Coastal Cities Perfect for Part- Time European Living

PAGE 14 Unexpected Tax Demands: What Expats Need to Know

PAGE 17 A Full Life Living on Social Security in Cotacachi

PAGE 30 Exploring the Other Side of the Mediterranean in Beirut

PLUS GLOBETROTTER INCOME OVERSEAS EXPAT STORIES UPCOMING EVENTS EXPLORATION CLASSIFIEDS feature story

Dubrovnik, “The Pearl of the Adriatic,” has excellent transport links, allowing ease of access to the rest of Europe. Croatia: Four Coastal Cities Perfect for Part-Time European Living Tricia A. Mitchell

he art of European living can be from Yugoslavia in 1991, and its regula- try’s interior. Along the way, we visited mastered in the Mediterranean tions and institutions have been slowly many of Croatia’s islands, national parks, Tcountry of Croatia. Sip coffee next evolving ever since. It can be difficult to and towns. We paid between $445 and $525 to the ruins of an ancient Roman temple in settle in Croatia permanently if you’re not a month to rent studio or one-bedroom the morning, swim in the royal blue waters a citizen of the European Union, if you apartments. of the in the afternoon, and don’t have family ties to Croatia, or if you We’re not alone in recognizing Croatia’s explore the once gas-lit cobblestone streets haven’t started a business there. Despite part-time possibilities. Maribeth Theisen of a hilltop town in the evening. the administrative challenges many expats and her husband, Allan Atherfold, have Every day in Croatia is to be savored. face while trying to make Croatia a per- been coming to Croatia for four years, From nibbling on jade-colored olives and manent home, the country is still a superb using it as a part-time European home base tasting ruby-red zinfandel, to inhaling the place for a part-time retirement, thanks from which to sail the Adriatic and travel to fresh sea air and laughing around an open to its pleasant climate, lower costs, and other countries by car. fire, life on the western coast of the Balkan exploration opportunities. “The weather in Croatia is incred- Peninsula is invigorating. And, it can be ible nine months a year, perfect for water enjoyed part-time. Part-Time Croatian Living sports, hiking, climbing, and sight seeing,” Croatia has long been a favorite Since 2013, my husband, Shawn, and I Maribeth says. “Neither of us enjoys cold destination for European vacationers. For have been spending up to three months at weather, so sailing in Croatia in the sum- decades they flocked to its beaches and a time in Croatia. For several winters, we mer and heading to Hawaii for the winter walled towns when it was a part of the for- based ourselves in Croatia’s second-largest works very well.” mer country of Yugoslavia. In recent years, city of Split and in the nearby town of For the past two-and-a-half years, Beth STOCK Croatia has become increasingly popular, Trogir—a UNESCO World Heritage site. Hoke, a self-described “empty nester,” has i thanks to many of its landscapes being We also lived in the coastal city of been spending close to 90 days at a time 4787/ featured in the HBO series Game of Thrones. and had the opportunity to spend a few in Croatia. She started coming to Croatia

The country declared its independence weeks among the vineyards in the coun- when her two daughters moved overseas. © DREAMER INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I JULY 2019 20 CROATIA—THE BASICS roatia is a member of the European winters and hot, dry summers. However, the Since this is the Mediterranean, you’re Union (EU). However, the country is inland regions, including , tend to bound to find high-quality wine. The Cnot yet part of the Schengen Area— have colder winters and hot summers. zinfandel varietal is believed to have its a zone that includes 26 European countries. Cuisine: The food in Croatia’s coastal ancestral homeland near the city of Split. Croatia is expected to join the Schengen areas is fundamentally Mediterranean, but Language: Croatian is the ofcial Area in the near future. As of this writing, an infused with decidedly Balkan characteristics. language, though you will find that English exact entry date has not been established. As a result, you’re likely to encounter lots of is widelyspoken—especially among younger Visas: Citizens of Australia, New Zea- fresh seafood drizzled in olive oil and sprin- Croatians. English is taught in schools, land, Canada, and the U.S. can visit Croatia kled with rosemary. Hearty stews paired with but many Croatians will tell you that they for up to 90 days in a 180-day period. No gnocchi are also common. Ajvar, a condi- learned English while watching American visa is required for tourism purposes. ment made from roasted red capsicum and television programmes. As with any coun- If you wish to stay in Croatia for more eggplant, usually accompanies meat dishes. try, you’ll please the locals if you learn some than 90 days, you must visit the local police basics of their language. station in your preferred Croatian city to SLOVENIA HUNGARY Connect With Others: As Croatia formally apply for a longer visa. Note that Zagreb continues to become increasingly popular administrative requirements can vary from with foreigners, many expat communities city to city. Expats often report that require- Gulf of have grown. One good way to connect with ments can change frequently and that Pula locals and foreigners alike is to join Face- guidelines can be inconsistent. CROATIA BOSNIA book groups. These online communities will AND Currency: Although Croatia is a mem- Zadar HERZEGOVINA keep you abreast of local events. In Face- ber of the EU, the country uses the kuna book’s search bar simply type in the name and has not yet adopted the euro ($1 = 6.70 Split of your preferred community, along with at time of writing). ITALY the word “expats.” Expats in Split, Expats in Climate: Croatia’s varied geography Zagreb, and Croatia Insider: Lifestyle Hacks means that it has a Mediterranean and con- Adriatic for Travelers, Expats and Digital Nomads, Dubrovnik tinental climate. Its coastal areas ofer milder Sea are several examples of active groups.

“When I knew they were both going to be republic that was in competition with the of Trebinje, which is only 21 miles from [in Europe] long-term, I came over as well. Venetian Empire. Today, the city is well Dubrovnik. Here you’ll have the chance to I couldn’t let them have all the fun,” she known for having served as the backdrop visit the city’s historic Ottoman-era bridge says. for King’s Landing in the HBO show Game and the Tvrdoš Monastery, where monks Beth says she was originally drawn to of Thrones. produce wine. Croatia because it is not yet part of the Modern-day explorers flock to Only 40 miles to the north, the town of Schengen Zone, allowing her to spend Dubrovnik to walk its extensive city walls, Ston is also worth visiting. Its imposing time inside other European countries. She which together with the city’s Old Town, walls wrap around the city and are remi- also found Croatia to be “stunningly beau- are inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage niscent of the Great Wall of China. Ston is tiful” and “inexpensive.” List. The walls were built over the course renowned for its high-quality oysters and Based on the idea that Croatia could of a few centuries and offer commanding long tradition of sea salt production. make a good part-time retirement desti- views of the sea and nearby islands. Dubrovnik’s accommodation options nation, I’ve singled out four coastal cities Visitors to Dubrovnik can also stroll its are plentiful. Currently, there is a two- that would make ideal hubs for exploring well-worn streets while admiring its elabo- bedroom apartment listed on Airbnb for Europe: Dubrovnik, Split, Zadar, and Pula. rate palaces, churches, monasteries, and $767 a month from the month of Novem- Here, you can take advantage of well-devel- fountains. For extraordinary views of the ber. The property is two miles from the Old oped transportation networks and urban city, you can ascend Dubrovnik’s Mount Town, and it’s located in a green area, close amenities such as hospitals and shops. Srd via cable car or on foot. to parks. From Dubrovnik it’s easy to hop to the The city is incredibly popular with Dubrovnik—Film-Worthy Scenery islands of Lokrum, Korcula, and Mljet. cruise ship travelers, meaning that its Old Known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic” There are also ferry connections to the Town core can become uncomfortably because of its magnificent walled Old southern Italian city of Bari. crowded during peak travel months (July Town, Dubrovnik is Croatia’s most famous By land, Dubrovnik is near the borders and August). If you wish to escape this destination. Sandwiched between moun- with Montenegro and Bosnia-Herzegovina. hustle and bustle, you might consider bas- tains and the glittering Adriatic Sea of the As a result, you can make a day trip to ing yourself in tiny Cavtat, which is located southern Dalmatian Coast, Dubrovnik was the fjord-like Bay of Kotor and its signa- near vineyards and Dubrovnik’s airport. once a part of Ragusa, a wealthy maritime ture fortress. You can also visit the town Dubrovnik’s international airport is INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I JULY 2019 21 well connected to the rest of Europe and and traditional Croatian treats. Near the Two more destinations outside of Split is serviced by British Airways, Croatia Riva, you’ll also find markets for fresh include Trogir and the Klis Fortress. Trogir Airlines, Iberia, and budget carriers such produce and fish. is only 16 miles up the coast and is a UNE- as EasyJet, Volotea and Eurowings. As Croatia’s second-largest city, Split SCO World Heritage-listed town defined by has several wonderful museums. These Romanesque and Renaissance architecture. Split—Island Hopping and a Roman include a comprehensive archaeological The Klis Fortress—an imposing structure Palace museum and a gallery that houses the overlooking a scenic mountain pass—was Split is Croatia’s second-largest city and works of Croatia’s most famous sculptor, also featured in Game of Thrones. home to the 1,700-year-old palace built by Ivan Mestrovic. In addition to having aesthetic, Roman Emperor Diocletian. Unlike ruins Split also boasts a cultural, and historic elsewhere in Europe, Diocletian’s Palace is sizeable university, a large appeal, Split also offers an still home to many locals—a legacy of the hospital, and a thriving “Split boasts extensive transportation security the palace walls offered after the expat community. These a substantial network. It has an inter- fall of the . characteristics have made national airport which Just footsteps away from Diocletian’s the city increasingly popular university, large is serviced by major and Palace is Marjan, a forested park filled with foreigners, meaning budget carriers and has a with evergreens, cypress trees, and agave that rental costs have risen hospital, and a centralized bus and train plants. Many of Croatia’s postcard scenes in recent years. For this station. Next to the bus are snapped here, which is not surprising reason, you might want to thriving expat station you’ll find a ferry given Marjan’s commanding views of the base yourself in a commu- community.” terminal leading to stun- Old Town, Adriatic Sea, and the nearby nity just outside of Split, ning island hot spots like islands of Brac, Solta, Ciova, and Hvar. something that part-time Brac, Hvar, Šolta, Korcula, Centuries-old chapels and hermit caves expat Beth Hoke has done three times. and Vis. You can even reach the Italian city dot Marjan’s landscape, offering hikers, “I stayed in Podstrana once (just south of Ancona by ferry. cyclists, climbers, and beachgoers a touch of Split) and Okrug Gornji (just north of Another popular getaway from Split is of history while inhaling the park’s fresh Split) twice. Split was easily accessible the city of Mostar, in neighboring Bosnia- air. You’ll also be tempted to take to the from both locations via public transporta- Herzegovina. Once part of the Ottoman water yourself when you see the sailboats tion, but the housing costs were a bit lower Empire, Mostar’s most famous sight is its gliding by. [outside of Split],” Beth says. “In Podstrana, 16th-century arched bridge, which was The Riva is Split’s place to see and be I was right on the beach and in Okrug destroyed during the 1990s conflict. The seen. Situated along the water’s edge and Gornji, I was within a 10- to 15-minute walk bridge was recently rebuilt and is flanked lined with palm trees, this promenade from the beach. I stayed in Okrug Gornji by historic neighborhoods brimming with is studded with cafés and restaurants. in late spring/early summer and Podstrana Bosnian coffee houses and sweet shops During the lead-up to Christmas, the Riva in late autumn/early winter. I paid the bursting with lokum (Turkish delights). hosts holiday performances and chalet- same for both two-bedroom apartments— You’ll also have abundant opportunities to like huts, which serve up hot spiced wine between $475 and $500 per month.” pick up a souvenir in the form of a hand- made copper tea set or a colorful rug. FINDING ACCOMMODATION Zadar—Legendary Sunsets and Roman Relics Croatia’s popularity as a tourist destination approach is to reserve a room in your When director Alfred Hitchcock vis- means that it has an ample supply of hotels, preferred city for a few nights. Once you ited Croatia in 1964, he proclaimed that privately owned rooms, and apartments. have your feet on the ground, you can the coastal city of Zadar had the “most Here are some points to take into consid- pop into cafés and small shops to ask beautiful sunset in the world.” Situated eration when you look for a rental of one locals for accommodation leads. in Northern Dalmatia, Zadar is home to month or more… Generally, you’ll get a better deal if a well-preserved Roman forum and two Finding a Good Deal: The best prices you stay for at least one month. If you’re whimsical attractions: the Sea Organ and are to be had during the of season, when willing to clean the apartment yourself and the Sun Salutation. Built into stairs that many tourist properties sit empty. Agencies, provide your own supplies, hosts are also enter the Adriatic Sea, the Sea Organ’s as well as sites like Airbnb and Booking.com, more likely to lower their prices. pipes and whistles are “played” by the will serve up lots of properties. However, Registration: Foreign tourists are sea’s waves. Nearby, at the Sun Salutation, these sites charge a fee. For better deals, expected to register with the local police hundreds of glass plates embedded in the contact accommodation owners directly via when they check in to a new Croatian city. walkway absorb sunlight by day and put on their website or Facebook page. Likewise, Generally, your hotel or apartment owner a spectacular light show once the sun has peruse the local classified site Njuskalo.hr. will do this administrative task for you, but set. Like most of Croatia’s coastal cities, It is in Croatian; however, Google Translate sometimes they fail to do so. If you are in Zadar also has beaches and a lively outdoor can help you decipher the listings. Another doubt, ask your host for clarification. green market. Much of Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast,

INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I JULY 2019 22 Like Dubrovnik, Split, and Zadar, Pula HEALTHCARE IN CROATIA has a good number of holiday apartments available for short-term rental. Currently, Croatia has moderate to good healthcare, prescription in Croatia. on Airbnb, there is a studio apartment and many providers speak a basic level of My husband and I were pleased with going for $673 a month during Novem- English. However, be aware that medi- the routine medical care in the city of ber. It has all the amenities you need cal facilities are more limited in smaller Split. We paid $185 for an annual physical for a longer stay—including a washing communities and on the islands. Costs are examination that included blood tests, machine. It’s located just 400 yards from likely to be less than what you’d encounter an abdominal ultrasound, and an EKG. Pula’s arena. back home, but it’s important to confirm Routine dental cleanings performed by Pula has a small international airport, that your health insurance plan will cover a dentist cost $40 each. If you contact which is serviced by Croatia Airlines, SAS, you in Croatia. Also, be aware that some your country’s embassy in Croatia, they and British Airways, as well as discount products that you purchase over-the- might be able to provide a list of English- airlines like easyJet, Eurowings, and counter back home might require a speaking medical providers. Ryanair. The city also offers decent bus connections throughout and further afield in Croatia. It also has a train station. including Zadar, was once part of the arena, which once seated up to 20,000 From Pula, you can explore compel- . In Zadar, you can find people. Other Roman sites include the ling Istrian destinations like Rovinj and a remnant of this historical chapter in the Arch of the Sergii, mosaics, and a temple Motovun. Rovinj is on the coast and form of the 16th-century Land Gate and dedicated to . boasts pastel-colored buildings tightly its winged Lion of St. Mark—a feature of Every summer, Pula residents cele- packed into a small peninsula. Motovun, Venice’s coat of arms. brate the city’s Roman heritage by hosting with walls built by the Venetians, is a hill- If you love nature, you’ll appreciate the Days of Antiquity. top village reminiscent of something that that Zadar is within reach of five of Croa- The Romans and the Austro-Hun- you might see in Tuscany. Today, the town tia’s national parks, including Plitvice, garians both recognized Pula’s maritime hosts an annual film festival. Krka, Paklenica, Kornati, and Northern Vel- potential and built significant military The Istrian Peninsula is known for its ebit. Collectively, the parks are well known and mercantile infrastructure. Today, cuisine. Istrian olive oil is rated among for their hiking, boating, swimming, the port is still a hive of activity. After the world’s best. Fine truffles are also cycling, rock climbing, and birdwatching nightfall, the cranes of Pula’s dockyard, harvested here, making the peninsula an opportunities. See: Parkovihrvatske.hr dubbed the “Giants,” come to life in an irresistible destination for gourmands. The island of Pag, celebrated for its ever-changing lightshow. There’s even more to explore if you handmade lace and sheep’s-milk cheese Like other Croatian communities, make Pula your part-time home base. called Paški sir, is also accessible. A land- Pula has a vibrant central market called The Brijuni Islands National Park is just bridge from Zadar enables you to easily Tržnica. This commercial center dates a short ferry ride from the nearby town reach this popular destination by car or back to the early 20th century and houses of Fažana, and Venice is only about bus. fish and meat vendors. Outside the attrac- three hours away. Slovenia’s capital of Zadar’s airport is serviced by discount tive market building, locals sell mounds Ljubljana (125 miles) and Croatia’s capital airlines such as Ryanair, Eurowings, of colorful local produce as well as bottles of Zagreb (165 miles) are also within easy and EasyJet, as well as Croatia Airlines of Istrian olive oil. reach of Pula. n and Lufthansa. The city also offers ferry connections to the islands of Dugi Otok, Ugljan, Molat, Iž, and Ist, and has onward COST OF LIVING bus travel to Dubrovnik, Split, Zagreb, and Rijeka. The following monthly budget is based on the cost of living for a couple staying on Rental prices will likely be higher Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast or on the Istrian Peninsula. Rental costs are highest during the closer you are to Zadar’s Old Town. peak-travel months between June and September. Currently, there is a one-bedroom apart- ment listed on Airbnb for $640 a month in Item Cost November. It has an ideal location in the Housing (rent and utilities for a furnished one-bedroom apartment) $560 - $1,350 Old Town and features a modern interior— Groceries (shopping at chain stores such as Konzum, Tommy, and Lidl, $515 and even a Netflix subscription. as well as making periodic purchases at outdoor fresh markets) Dining out (twice per week: one lunch, one dinner) $425 Pula—Real-Life Charm on the Istrian Entertainment (museum entries, wine tasting tour) $180 Peninsula Health insurance (international plans vary greatly based upon age $225 Situated in northwestern Croatia on the and personal circumstances) Istrian Peninsula, Pula is a working city Tr ansportation (bus/ferry/Uber/taxis) $145 with extraordinary ancient Roman archi- TOTAL $2,050 - $2,840 tecture. Its star attraction is its 1st-century

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