NORTHERN Elsewhere, mostjourneysare roughandrugged. pelago andLichinga–there isenoughinfrastructure asyoulike. totravel ascomfortably war were fired. did theirtraining,anditwashere villageof Chai–thatthefirstshotsof –intheunlikely of Mozambique’s independencestruggle. Itwashere, inthebush,thatFrelimo cadres tradingnetworks. isalsothebirthplace Thecenturies-old tiestotheancientSwahili north patrilinealsouth.Islamicinfluencesarein contrastwiththestrictly alsostrongerhere, with literacy rates andoften seemstodropoutofsightforthesouthern-oriented government. hasthelowestadult ofthegrossnationalproduct, population, itaccountsforonlyone-fifth rivers ofMozambique’s andhundreds ofroad.And,althoughhometoone-third ofkilometres as wellbeaseparate country.It’sdividedfromtherest ofMozambique byseveral major islands, plusMozambique Island–oneofsouthernAfrica’s mostalluringdestinations. havoc onvillages. Alongthecoastisanalmostendlesssuccessionof unspoiled beachesand of bushwhere enoughlionsandelephantsstillroamtobethestuffof locallore andwreak This isoneofAfrica’s lastfrontiers–wild,beautifulanduntamed.Inlandare vastexpanses it’s theparadisalcoastalpanoramas,senseofspaceandsheeradventure oftravel. If southernMozambique’s lures are theaccessiblebeachesandrelaxing inthenorth resorts, Mozambique Northern 126 © LonelyPlanet In themaindestinations–Nampula,Mozambique Island,Pemba, theQuirimbasArchi- MozambiqueCulturally, isintriguingasthehomeofmanymatrilinealtribes, northern –the provinces ofNampula,NiassaandCaboIn manyrespects, Delgado–might thenorth

     HIGHLIGHTS Take ofrural aridethroughtheheart Setoffononeofthewildestsafarisyour Revel intheruggedremoteness oftheLake Goisland hoppingbydhoworchillout Wander atdawnthroughthestreets of (p141 ) on theNampula–Cuamba train (p147 ) life intheNiassaReserve or three at NkwichiLodge(p146) Niassa ( p144 ) shoreline andspendanight (p155) Quirimbas Archipelago on yourprivate sliceofparadise inthe atmospheresurreal, time-warp Mozambique Island( p133 inthe ), taking Niassa Lake Reserve Niassa Cuamba Nampula

Archipelago

Quirimbas Mozambique Island

NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE

Archipelago Quirimbas 127 Island Relanzapo Mozambique Nacala Vamizi Island Murrébuè Túnguè Bay Quisiva Island Quionga Ibo Island Quipaco Island Pemba Bay Matemo Island Island Quilaluia Island Mecúfi Rolas Island Macalóè Island Quirimba Island Tecomaji Island Pemba Rongui Island Veloso Lúrio Fernão Medjumbe da Praia Mogincual Moçimboa Quinga O C E A N I N D I A N ὅ ὅὅ ὅὅ Pangane Palma ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ Kiwiya Mucojo Chai Diaca Metuge Kilambo Monapo Alua Angoche Quissanga Namiranga ὅ Tandanhangue

00 100 km 60 miles

Nangade r uez

Macomia

ve Quixaxe

Mueda ep Liupo Islands (5km) Namialo Ri Muidumbe Moçimboa do Rovuma Mont Nametil

To Mtwara

Rovuma River Rovuma Nampula

Primeiras & Segundas & Primeiras Lúrio River Lúrio Moma Corrane ὅ ὅ (884m) Mt Muavi NAMPULA ὄὄὄὄὄὄ Ligonha River ὅ Negomane Montepuez Gilé

Gilé Messalo Balama (1219m) Mt Maco CABO DELGADO Alto Mozambique Island, it’s also an inevitable few are While there stop for many travellers. are tourist attractions, Nampula’s negatives somewhat by its good facilities, redeemed and its main plaza, graced by broad avenues cathedral and rimmed by an imposing white flowering trees. are good north–south air links. While the good north–south air links. While the are (it’s north–south road situation is improving mostly tarmac the whole way, following main it’s still a long journey; allow ample routes), travel. overland time for NAMPULA third-largest Nampula – Mozambique’s metropolis – is a crowded city with a hard the jumping-off point for visiting As edge. Ribáuè National Reserve ὅὅ ὅὅ Ligonha Salimo Mecula ὄὄὈ Marrupa Nungo Malema T A N Z A N I A T A N Z A N I (1441m) Nampevo Mt Muavi Alto Maúa Molócuè To Quelimane (140km) Mbatamila (2419m) Mutuáli Mocuba Mt Namúli Errego Lugela Gurúè

Niassa Reserve

Mt Jau (1336m) Lugenda River Lugenda Namarrói (1162m) Cuamba ZAMBÉZIA Limbuè Mt Quissindo Lake Liciro

Mecanhelas Amaramba

NIASSA Milange Derre Mandimba Plateau Entre Lagos

Lipilchi Wilderness Area NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE •• Nampula (2054m)

Massangulo Macaloge Segundo Congresso (Matchedje) Unango Zomba Mt Chiperone Lichinga Songea Limbe

ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Manda Wilderness ὅὅ ὅὅ Meponda Community Conservation Area Ngofi Chuwanga (1848m) M A L A W I

Mt Txitonga (Lake )

Lake Niassa Blantyre NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE NORTHERN Island Ulóngwe Likoma Metangula (Malawi) Cóbuè Messumba

Climate Climate Getting There & Away Getting There & Away than via Maputo. Once in Mozambique, there Once in Mozambique, there than via Maputo. and Malawi. If this is your focus, focus, If this is your and Malawi. Tanzania time- and more expensive less it’s often theseefficient neighbours from one of to enter There are straightforward air and road con- are There with nections linking northern Mozambique the coastal areas and more in inland areas in inland areas and more the coastal areas at altitude. later, around February, and have continued continued and have around February, later, less rainfall along through to April. There’s late December until March – although in – although in December until March late held off until the rains have years recent In theory, the rainy season starts somewhat far north – from earlier in Mozambique’s

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