Latitude 38 May 2010

Latitude 38 Latitude

VOLUME 395 May 2010 WE GO WHERE THE WIND BLOWS A 2010 MAY VOLUME 395 VOLUME CLIPPER 'ROUND THE WORLD RACE

We'd been trying to wrap our heads around the Clipper 'Round the World Race phenomenon — it's really in its own category among sailing events — since we started profi ling local erstwhile Clipper sailors in Latitude a year ago. But it wasn't until the Leg 5 prize giving at Golden Gate YC on April 6 that it really started to make sense. The 10-month, 35,000-mile odyssey had always seemed to us to be in a sort of ex- istential limbo. Sure, it's more than a rally. But with the sailors, skippers and nine boats up at the discretion of the organizers, is it really a race? The boats departed Qingdao on May 2 for the start of the trans-Pacifi c leg. Storm after storm pounded the fl eet as they crossed the North Pacifi c, buffeted by breeze of up to 70 knots. It was a full-on surfi ng fest out there, with some teams sending their identical 68-ft, 66,000-lb battlewagons at speeds of 20 knots. "It was absolutely bonkers," said Qingdao sailor Andrew "Heston" Jones. "The fi rst two times in my life I've ever been proper-scared were on this leg. You're on the foredeck, levitating as the boat's pounding up and down, you think, 'The world is ending. . .' We had a knockdown and the best way to describe it is like a train crash; time slows down and you stop dead," he added. "I was going into one of the cabins beneath the companionway at the time and all of a sudden the door slammed shut and smashed my hip. The hatch had been torn off, and we were at an angle of over 100°. The water that came down the hatch fl oated the fl oorboards, which jammed the cabin door shut around me, and all of a sudden, I'm thinking, 'I'm proper fucked!' The boat made a noise like a groyne and suddenly righted. We had 40 bottles of chili sauce onboard and all of them went fl ying. The whole interior was like Vesuvius; when the boat righted, everyone down below was covered in chili sauce, thinking, 'I'm bleeding . . .' — it was like being pepper-sprayed!" While the crew enjoyed one of its best positions in a leg to date, California was dismasted the night of March 21, some 1,800 miles from the Bay. Sailing under only a storm jib in 60-knot winds, the boat was rolled to 120° and came back up without its rig. The knockdown fl ooded the boat's nav station and knocked its antennae, so skipper Pete Rollason's only option was to activate the boat's EPIRB while they could attempt repairs to their comms equipment. The Coast Guard scrambled a C-130 from Kodiak Island, Alaska, which dropped a radio in a bright-orange, steel canister that landed six feet from the stricken boat. Three of the other race boats rendezvoused with California and began a laborious process of transferring fuel while the crew set The Clipper 68 'California' rumbles out the Gate on her journey around the world. LATITUDE / ROB LATITUDE CLIPPER 'ROUND ALL PHOTOS LATITUDE/ROB PHOTOS ALL

Clockwise from top left — The Clipper 68s are big boats; so are their fi ttings; 'Cape Breton Island' crew member Adrian Healy chows down on a victory slice; 'Uniquely Singapore' and the rest of the fl eet got a fi reboat send-off; 'Qingdao's Andrew "Heston" Jones; Kathrine Simpson and Elaine Walker enjoy a rest before cleaning up 'CBI'; 'Uniquely Singapore's Nicole Ho gets curious about what's under 'Edinburgh Inspiring Capital' sailor Alan Campbell's kilt; overall race leader 'Spirit of Australia' just after the start of Leg 6; the galley aboard 'California'; Shana Bagley shows us the shower head each crew member gets to use every nine days, plus one of her contributions to her team: "Lady Anti-Monkey-Butt Powder"; Donna Womble, who hails from Monterey, joined 'California' for the leg to Panama; 'California' skipper Pete Rollason; Rhode Island-based 'California' sailor Chris Sheldon gets his gear stowed before heading for lower latitudes. up a jury rig to mitigate Cali's need for the Bay, in part because CBI beat the to the couple hundred people in atten- diesel. race offi ce personnel — scheduled to set dance, quickly fi lled with money for the Among the teams still racing, Cape up shop at the Golden Gate YC a day Coast Guard Foundation. A CG offi cer Breton Island put on a show, fi nishing later — to the Bay. While they may have in attendance conveyed the impression on March 30 — two days ahead of the beaten the organizers by a day, they only of the C-130 crew, who were amazed at next boat! In fact, the crew moved the beat the pizza guy by a few minutes; not how calm California's crew had been. boat along so well that they received long after they were tied up in the San Local Clipper racers like Charles Will- plaintive emails from race organizer Francisco Marina, the 17-member crew son and Shana Bagley had commented to Clipper Ventures asking that they slow was devouring the stack of pies they'd us in the past that the camaraderie be- down. After that much time at sea, we ordered upon fi nishing. tween the sailors on every boat is strong. couldn't blame the CBI sailors for just At the prize giving, the orange canis- The feeling that the entire 400-strong wanting to git 'er done. There weren't ter that had conveyed the all-important participant pool is like one big family is many people out to welcome them to radio to California was passed around prevalent. Because of the structure of

Page 94 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 THE WORLD RACE

the Clipper Training, everyone from the were scratching their way through the sailing experience but nevertheless sold "Leggers" — those who sail only selected race, raising money as they went from his apartment and most of his stuff, legs — to the "Rounders," has pretty leg to leg. Others had quit their jobs or stashed some essentials in his folks' much sailed with everyone else before taken temporary leave, spending their garage and bid farewell to urban and they're ever assigned to a particular 'cushion' on the race. Frankly, we wanted corporate life to sail around the world. boat. Many of them have experienced to know why things like bashing around "For the fi rst time in my life, I have a horrifi c weather, seasickness and ex- the world and transiting the North Pacifi c key to nothing," he said. "It's wicked!" haustion together, which means when in the springtime were so appealing. Uniquely Singapore 'rounder Nicole Ho they congregate, the atmosphere is kind One of the more interesting folks we came to the race from a different back- of like a school reunion, but a lot more met was Jones. Sporting an asymmetri- ground. The 33-year-old native of her convivial. cally-sculpted beard and sounding like boat's namesake country, had already A remarkable aspect of the race is the anything but, he's the former managing decided to take two years off from her IT variety of backgrounds its participants director of UK-based $500 million-a-year job when she fi rst became aware of the come from and the diversity of nationali- produce and fl ower importer Flamingo. event during the '07-'08 race. ties, ethnicities, and genders they repre- After working his way up from the shop "Sailing is still a luxury sport in Asia, sent. Outside of a women's regatta, this fl oor to the job he just left, Jones had especially in Singapore," she said. "I had was hands-down the highest percentage enough. He'd broken up with his long- done a lot of canoeing and diving, but I'd of female sailors we'd ever seen together time girlfriend early last year; when he never sailed until the training started. in one place. Some racers we talked to heard about the race, Jones no previous "I'm really happy I signed on," she

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 95 CLIPPER 'ROUND THE WORLD

said. "I think in general we really try to time he puts this circus on the road. He calculate too much, and sometimes in You'd probably be sorely disappointed if and Clipper Ventures have essentially life we just have to let it fl ow." those were your goals. Chances are you democratized ocean racing. If we under- The only people who get paid to do do it for the same reasons that Clipper stand correctly, it takes about $40,000 the race are the skippers, so we asked sailors do: self-exploration, camaraderie, to do the race; we challenge you to fi nd California skipper Pete Rollason — an any amateur who's circumnavigated for Englishman residing in South Africa — less in ten months' time. what their motivations are. "The one thing to take away from it, "Some have solo-racing aspirations," "The one thing to take is that anyone can do it," Ho said. he said. "But others like me just want to Will the race ever come back to the do it for the sake of doing the race." away from it, is that Bay? We hope so. The organizers were What was like to get 17 essentially anyone can do it." extremely grateful for the efforts of the green offshore sailors to sail a boat Port of San Francisco and Harbormaster around the world, and is there another Larry White, who went to great lengths to element to the diversity of the crews? accommodate the race on the Cityfront. "Any of us can get the amateurs to do the challenges, and the recreation — in There wasn't a whole lot of interest from the work, but dealing with the interper- the most basic sense of the word. the general public, but because the stop- sonal relationships can be a challenge," The stopover left us with a newfound over was unsponsored, Clipper Ventures Rollason said, laughing. "We have a run- appreciation for creator Sir Robin Knox didn't have the marketing budget and ning joke that when we're done, we're Johnston's efforts with this event. For all partnerships they normally have in place going to start a kindergarten!" the well-intentioned rhetoric, research to set up a race village and advertise in Another question we had, was how and initiatives that pop up aimed at get- mainstream media. For what it's worth, competitive is the race? ting new blood involved into the sport, for the fi rst time we felt that it's some- "The point is to enjoy it," Jones said. something is lost. The most effective way thing we'd want to do. Clipper Ventures, So is it a race? Hell yeah, it's a race. to get new people sailing is to . . . take please come back to the Bay! One month to cross the North Pacifi c in them sailing! And that's what RKJ is do- The fl eet departed April 20 bound for the spring is damn fast! If you disagree, ing. He's taking 400 people sailing each Panama; you can track its progress at ask yourself why do you go racing? Is it www.clipperroundtheworld.com. for glory and fame? That's for the pros. — latitude/rob

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Page 96 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 97 'SUPERMEN' TO THE RESCUE —

I magine that a life-threatening medical emergency has occurred aboard your boat while you're sailing across the his tongue that was bleeding profusely. System), the Liberian-flagged, 610-ft South Pacifi c, 1,400 miles from the near- For the previous fi ve days, the crew container ship Cap Palmerston was di- est land. Suddenly, four highly-trained had been communicating with the Mari- verted toward the sloop's position. She medics drop out of the sky above you time Mobile Net, which would be on the was 16 hours away, and had been en with all the supplies and expertise nec- air with their daily roll call in a few hours. route to Ensenada, Mexico. In addition, But, rather than Nolte and his associates considered the wait, they decided situation serious enough to warrant that the serious- sending out an elite team of pararescue- ness of the situa- men (PJs) from the 129th Rescue Wing of tion necessitated the California Air National Guard. They an immediate call would parachute onto the scene out of for help. the cargo bay of a Coast Guard C-130 Dave Taylor got Hercules aircraft. Remember those guys on the boat's HF who jumped out of the sky in The Perfect radio and put out Storm? Yeah, those guys. a pan-pan over the Talk about calling out the cavalry, Maritime Mobile Net frequency. This is where the first US COAST GUARD US COAST near-miracle of Spread: 'Wind Child's signature chute made C-130s are the primary workhorses of many this story occurred. For reasons that her easy to spot as she cruised Mexico this long-range rescue ops. When you're in trouble, experienced HF radio afi cionados still winter. Right: Pararescuemen silently psych seeing one overhead is a godsend. don't fully understand, a Floridian Ham up for their imminent jump. essary to save the life of your severely operator named Bill Sturridge — who injured crewman. You might think you'd was roughly 3,500 miles away from Wind just witnessed a miracle. Child — heard a faint "pan-pan" just as No doubt that's how skipper Rudy he was taking over net control duties. Heessels felt last month when four pa- But the only other word he could make rarescuemen arrived aboard his Wash- out initially was "medical." ington-based Beneteau First 36s7 Wind During the next half hour, Sturridge Child, which was en route from Mexico pieced together the basic facts of the to the Marquesas. emergency through a series of faint transmissions, and reported them to the Eleventh Coast Guard District Rescue A bout an hour before sunrise Coordination Center in Alameda via his on April 1, crewman Kevin Hendricks land line. Among those who took on the was at the helm, hand-steering over case was Flight Surgeon Dr. R. Nolte, sloppy 8-foot swells in gusty, unsettled who was eventually patched through conditions. His watch partner, Michael to Wind Child. After Hendricks fully ex- Kalahar, was seated at the forward end plained his wounded shipmate's condi- of the cockpit, portside. Suddenly, a tion and described the medical resources swell twisted the hull and a strong gust aboard, Nolte made the call for an imme- got behind the mainsail, breaking the diate medevac. In addition to lacerations preventer and sending the boom fl ying on Kalahar's tongue and head, Nolte's across the cabintop. In the process, the biggest concern was that the wounded vertical lines of the mainsheet assembly sailor would become severely dehydrated caught Kalahar, who is 56, across his and could possibly die, as damage to his throat, pinning him against the cockpit throat had left him unable to swallow. At bulkhead and bashing his head against the time, Wind Child was a minimum of the portside sheet winch. Moments later, 10 days from the nearest shore facility. when Hendricks freed his watchmate from the lines, he saw that Kalahar was unconscious and not breathing. A s the evacuation game plan Hendricks, who fortunately had been took shape, an hourly communica- trained as an EMT, yelled for all hands on tions schedule was established to give deck as he proceeded to clear Kalahar's updates on Kalahar's condition, as well airway and administer CPR. After get- as Wind Child's position and the local ting his injured friend breathing again weather conditions. During the process and into the main cabin, Hendricks did of patching through and relaying calls, a systematic evaluation of him, and the Hams from Texas, Minnesota and Hawaii crew discussed their options. Initially, played key roles. the worst of his injuries appeared to be Through the AMVER network (Auto- a deep laceration across the full width of mated Mutual Assistance Vessel Rescue LATITUDE / ANDY / LATITUDE

Page 98 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 WIND CHILD'S MID-OCEAN MIRACLE

mum of 3,000 feet of clear air to descend through. An estimated jump time was these selfless heroes are said to be ing regimen they endure is so tough it's established, prior to which the boat's the most highly trained of any of the been dubbed 'Superman school'. As you EPIRB was to be activated. The plan U.S. military's special operatives. Their might imagine, it is rare for PJs to be ac- was for the four PJs to stay aboard Wind tivated to aid sailboaters in distress. But Child until the Cap Palmerston arrived. Damage to his throat had left in an extreme — life-or-death — situa- Then, after transferring to the ship, they tion such as this, they go willingly. would stay aboard with Kalahar until him unable to swallow. At the Wind Child's location, however, was at they could all be airlifted off near the time, Wind Child was a the outer limits of a C-130's range — and coast. minimum of 10 days from the more than 1,000 miles beyond helicopter While the crew awaited the rendez- range — so Heessels was asked to reverse vous that afternoon, Kalahar was rela- nearest shore facility. course and head back toward Mexico. tively stable, in part thanks to the pain Wind Child was sailing near the north- meds he'd been given, but he was still specialized skill set — which includes ern edge of the Intertropical Convergence unable to swallow. advanced medical training — was origi- Zone (ITCZ), where lots of tropical rain nally developed to rescue downed pilots cells linger, so cloud cover was a big behind enemy lines. The two-year train- concern. The PJs would need a mini- Late in the afternoon Heessels made the wise decision to alter course to get away from approaching black rain clouds. With Wind Child's EPIRB activated, she was easy enough for the C-130 pilots to fi nd, but by the time they arrived, it was getting dark. The earlier course change had brought the sloop into an area with a substantially higher cloud ceiling. Sea conditions were rough, USCG / PO 3CL HENRY G. DUNPHY HENRY USCG / PO 3CL however, with winds around 25 knots. After the plane made a few trial passes, Wind Child's crew saw a large parachute open — which they soon learned was harnessed to a fully-equipped infl atable — followed by four smaller chutes car- rying the PJs. On the next pass several supply packages were dropped, which the crew was instructed to chase down and retrieve. But corraling them proved to be no easy task. With their parachutes still inflated, the strong breeze dragged them rapidly across the surface, away from Wind Child. Motoring at top engine speed — about 7 knots — the crew fi nally caught up to one of the bright orange crates in the fading light. They were still

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 99 'SUPERMEN' TO THE RESCUE —

pondering how to get it aboard — it was very heavy and seemed to be nearly as big as the cockpit — when the inﬂ atable ered their launch for arrived full of PJs and their gear. a rendezvous. But Once aboard the sloop, the jumpers the combination of pulled oxygen tanks and other supplies sea conditions and from the crate, and the lead medic took damage to one of the over Kalahar's care, soon setting up an launch's hulls made that plan a nonstarter. As options for Plan B After a couple of tries, were being discussed, Wind Child was ma- one of the PJs grabbed neuvering under en- the raft and began gine power when the reeling in its tow line. tail of a genoa sheet became badly fouled in the prop. It had IV to begin rehydration. apparently gone over- During the ordeal of jumping, swim- board earlier during ming to the dinghy in high winds, then the shufﬂ ing of men bouncing over the wavetops aboard it and equipment in the to reach Wind Child, all four PJs had cockpit. Although one become seasick, but they bore it stoi- of the PJs dove under cally as they carried on with their du- and was able to clear ties. They were also a bit surprised at part of the sheet, it the size of Wind Child, as someone had was obvious that the told them she was a 51-footer! In all the job could not be com- excitement, the dinghy worked loose and pleted until the seas drifted away into the night. calmed down. This unfortunate mishap added sub- By this time, Heessel's crew had stantially to the com- spoken directly with the Cap Palmerston, plexity of the transfer, which was expected to arrive before but Heessels and his dawn. Her captain would decide on a crew, all of whom are transfer plan after sunrise. With Kalahar experienced offshore now stabilized, there was undoubtedly racers, were up to it. CAL ANG / CAP PALMERSTON

Because 'Wind Child's engine was out of com- Anyone who knows mission, getting the injured sailor and the PJs Heessels knows that into the raft was no easy feat. aboard Wind Child some sense of relief among the passage- he and his cruising makers. But their challenges were far cronies — some of from over. whom race with him After positioning the Cap Palmerston back home, and some to create a lee, the ship's crew low- against him — almost

Page 100 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 WIND CHILD'S MID-OCEAN MIRACLE

never use the engine or autopilot. So it's bitterly What sort of man would jump out an air- ironic that the one time plane at night in the middle of the ocean to they really needed the save a complete stranger's life? One with a iron jib, it was unavail- heart of gold and super-sized cojones. able to them.

The idea of sailing right alongside the ship was discussed but abandoned due to the rough sea conditions, as was the idea of having Wind Child sail close enough to the ship to retrieve tow lines, so Kalahar and the PJs could be transfered via a liferaft. Plan D, however, proved to be a winner: the Cap Palmerston cut her power and drifted, PALMERSTON ANG / CAP CAL trailing her 6-person infl atable liferaft Rescue jumpers coach the cargo ship's crew, on a long tether behind her, which the as the wounded sailor is slowly hoisted aboard Wind Child crew was meant to snag. the 'Cap Palmerston'. Having raced for years in Puget Sound, grabbed the raft and began reeling in its competed in several Hawaii races, and towline. cruised in Mexico, Heessels is an expert On the boat's blog, Taylor later ex- helmsman in all conditions. So, despite plained, "In an outstanding, and he- the increasing wind and rain, he was able roic demonstration of sailboat handling, to zig-zag back and forth behind the ship Rudy was able to keep our boat in posi- while Hendricks and Taylor trimmed. tion, and far enough away from the ship After a couple of tries, one of the PJs to allow the transfer of patient, jumpers WHO WERE THOSE GUYS? You need guts, brawn and brains to Think you've got the stones and the become a pararescueman, plus an inor- stamina to make the cut? If so, see if you dinate sense of compassion for others, as can pass the PAST (the Physical Abilities symbolized by their chilling motto: "That and Stamina Test). It's sort of a Special others may live." Ops SAT test — only a tad more physi- In addition to their primary mission cal. The following are the bare minimum during wartime — treating and recover- physical requirements for acceptance ing downed pilots behind enemy lines into the program: — they occasionally assist in civilian • Swim 25 meters underwater on one rescues in remote locations (such as breath this one), and have been used to recover • Swim 1,000 meters sidestroke or NASA astronauts after water landings. freestyle in 26 minutes or less Their training, as part of the Air Force • Run 1.5 miles in under 10 minutes Special Tactics community, is incredibly and 30 seconds intense. They have to be tough enough • Do eight chin-ups in a minute or to endure Navy SEAL training and sharp less enough to become profi cient in advanced • Do 50 sit-ups in 2 minutes or less medical training. (Sorry, but this spe- • Do 50 push-ups in 2 minutes or cialty is not currently open to women.) less The PJs' two-year instructional • Complete 50 fl utter kicks in 2 min- program is known as "the Pipeline" or, utes or less perhaps more appropriately, "Superman Piece of cake, right? And that's just School," as only the fi ttest of the fi t sur- to get your toe in the door. vive it. In fact, the dropout, or washout, Those who do pass the rigorous train- rate is said to be the highest of any U.S. ing wear distinctive maroon berets. If you military Special Ops program. see one, give a salute and say thanks. USCG / PO 3CL HENRY G. DUNPHY HENRY USCG / PO 3CL

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 101 'SUPERMEN' TO THE RESCUE

and baggage." sacriﬁ ces made both by my friends and Once aboard the liferaft, Kalahar and by those involved in my rescue." With his caregivers were pulled alongside the any luck he'll soon be back out on the massive, red-hulled ship, and the patient waters of Puget Sound again, racing his was hauled aboard on a stretcher. trophy-winning Jesperson 30 Myrrh. "With very mixed feelings, we said Wind Child, by the way, continued on farewell to our injured crewman," wrote to the Marquesas and completed her 21- Taylor, ". . . We will miss his good humor day crossing by making landfall at Hiva and sailing skills as we resume our lonely Oa's Atuona Bay. ocean passage to French Polynesia." Thankfully, Kalahar remained stable during the ride toward the Mexican All in all, this multi-phase rescue coast. On April 4, when the ship was was an astonishing effort by a highly roughly 650 miles off the Baja coast, efﬁ cient network of dedicated profession- she was met by an aerial entourage of als. As Heessels' wife Jean put it, "The two HH-60F Pave Hawk helicopters, ac- Ham Radio Operators, Coast Guard, companied by two Marine Corps planes: California Air National Guard, and a 130P Combat Shadow, and a KC-130J AMVER Cap Palmerston accomplished Super Hercules tanker used to refuel the something many of us never understood helos en route. was possible. The three and a half days it

By late that evening, Kalahar was USAF / USMC took to get Michael to the hospital have safely transferred to a San Diego hospi- Look very closely and you'll see a small dark been ones during which we've learned tal, where specialists attended to his in- shape directly beneath the helo. That's a PJ so much — about resources, skills and juries, and family members, who'd driven making his exit — all in a day's work! experience acquired by individuals, and down from Washington, comforted him. recovery. human spirit and willingness to help. We At this writing, he is home convalescing, "Each day," he says, "I am thank- are so grateful to all the angels!" and, in his words, "on a steady path to ful for all of the goodwill, support, and — latitude/andy

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Page 102 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 Get your Coast Guard Captain’s License. Are you happy with your sailing club?

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 103 CALIFORNIA

In the past, Lina and I have made Spread, Cat Harbor on Catalina Island is long distance passages to the Marque- a favorite stop for Bruce and Lina. In fact, sas, Mexico and Hawaii. And I did the ‘98 helps a lot if your boat is less than 35 their stop at Catalina last summer inspired this article. Below, pulling her weight — Singlehanded TransPac. But we actually feet. Lots of yacht clubs have trouble Lina isn't just along for the ride. prefer California Cruising because it bet- accommodating larger boats. ter conforms with our cruising rules: To give you an idea of what kind of 1) Always turn left after sailing out places you can visit and fun you can have past the Golden Gate Bridge. California Cruising, here’s our schedule 2) Don’t sail at night unless it’s abso- and comments from last year: lutely necessary.

3) Har- 4/21 — We spent the ﬁ rst night at UNLESS NOTED bor hop Half Moon Bay. It’s only about 25 miles like a cou- down the coast from the Bay, but as we ple of bun- mentioned, we like to harbor-hop rather

nies instead than make long passages. RAZZBERRIES of making 4/22-28 — We could have stopped longer pas- at Santa Cruz, but continued on to sages. Monterey, where we got two nights of 4) Take free berthing at the Monterey Peninsula the time to YC. Then, because there is so much to enjoy each see and do around Monterey, we took a stop. slip at the Municipal Marina. While in ALL PHOTOS COURTESY COURTESY PHOTOS ALL LATITUDE / LADONNA LATITUDE 5) Stay Monterey, Bruce raced on the Sydney at yacht 38 Bustin’ Loose. Lina and Bruce Nesbit have clubs where 4/29 — We then did a cruised the California coast s p a c e i s 80-mile hop down to San aboard 'Razzberries' for 12 years. available, Simeon, where we spent and when staying at yacht clubs, par- the night. It’s a very sce- ticipate in as many of the club activities nic anchorage and Hearst as possible. Castle is nearby. 6) When transiting the coast of Cali- 4/30 — Instead of fornia, always stay in water that’s more stopping at Morro Bay, we than 200 feet deep in order to avoid kelp continued on to Port San and crab pots. Luis. We got a mooring 7) Don’t cruise where you can’t drink for $10, which included the water or speak the language. a shuttle service, so we didn’t have to inﬂ ate our and buddyboat- dinghy. ed with them We bought our boat, Razzberries, 5/1 — Normally we as far south an Ericson Yachts-built Olson 34, from would have stopped at as Santa Bar- Stan Womsley of the King Harbor YC in Cojo anchorage, 50 miles bara. While we ‘93. She rates 99 in San Francisco and southeast of Port San passed through 108 in Southern California. She still has Luis, but the wind was so the part of the the number ‘99’ on her bow from the ‘98 good that we continued on Santa Barbara Singlehanded TransPac. to Santa Barbara, arriving Channel where I retired from a management position about midnight, which is there is tremen- at PG&E in ‘93 shortly after purchas- late for us. It had been dous natural ing Razzberries. Since then, Lina and I a 90-mile passage. As oil seepage to have generally spent winters in the Bay it was, we’d had strong the surface, the sailing out of the Richmond YC, and northwest winds from folks on Outrid- summers cruising the California coast Davenport, which is just er got such big as far south as San Diego. So far, we’ve north of Santa Cruz, al- whiffs of petro- made 12 cruises to most to Santa Bar- leum odors they became worried that Southern Califor- bara, so we never our boat was on ﬁ re. nia, and as a result You don't have to needed to motor. 5/2-8 — While you can anchor out of our ‘rules’, have In fact, we always on either side of the Stearn’s Wharf in made good friends leave the country to sailed with the #4 Santa Barbara, it’s not very convenient in every port. enjoy your boat. jib and one or two and can be rolly. So we took a berth in While California reefs in the main. the marina. Santa Barbara is a beauti- Cruising, we get It was our fastest ful city, and much of it can be enjoyed around by foot, buses, the occasional time ever from San Francisco to Santa by walking or using the bus system. We rental car, and dinghy. Such cruising Barbara. were going to do the Wednesday Beer can be quite economical, as yacht club While in Monterey, we met a Cana- Can Race out of the Santa Barbara YC on members who keep on the move rarely dian family — Peter, Krishna and their have to pay for berthing. Of course, it two boys — on Outrider a C&C 40,

Page 104 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 CRUISING

miles from Redondo. We were scheduled to race on White Knight again, but the race was cancelled due to heavy weather. 6/4-17 — We bypassed Shoreline and Alamitos Bay Marinas in Long Beach, and made the 20-mile hop down to New- port Beach. During our nearly two weeks in Newport Harbor, we got free berthing at the Balboa YC, Bahia Corinthian YC, and the American Legion YC, and got a low-cost berth and mooring from the Orange County Sheriff’s Offi ce. There is lots to see around Newport Harbor — including Lina's favorite, shopping at Fashion Island! — and a dinghy is often the best way to get around. While in Newport, Bruce raced on the Schock 35 Whistler, and did a Taco Tuesday Race on the Tartan 35 Élan. 6/18-22 — We sailed 25 miles across the Catalina Channel to Avalon to meet the Coastal Cup boats as they fi nished their race from San Francisco. We stayed on a mooring, although they aren't cheap. You can anchor, but it's best to anchor for free near White’s Landing and dinghy to Avalon. After the Coastal Cup, we partied with fellow Richmond YC member Mark Howe and his crew from the Beneteau 40 White Fang. Bruce was slated to do the Santa Barbara to King Harbor Race on White Fang, but plans changed, so he didn’t get to do that. 6/23-28 — We sailed back across the Channel to Alamitos Bay, where Bruce the same Beneteau we’d raced on before, possible for us to get two free nights at crewed on the One-Design 48 Emirage ll but the race was cancelled due to the big the Cal YC, the Santa Monica Windjam- for Long Beach Race Week. Jesusita fi re. We watched the fi re from mers YC and the Del Rey YC. There is 6/30-7/5 — We sailed back to our boat as the ashes drifted down onto also relatively inexpensive berthing at Catalina and around the back side to us and our boat. the Burton Chace Park, in the heart of Cat Harbor, where we took a mooring. 5/10-14 — After sailing 20 miles Marina del Rey. While staying at Marina It’s also possible to anchor for free in to Ventura, we got free berthing at the del Rey, Bruce raced on the Davidson 52 Cat Harbor, which is a good anchorage Ventura YC. Bruce raced on a Santana 35 Pendragon IV in a beer can race, did Cal in almost all weather conditions. and attended a BBQ for liveaboards. Race Week on the Schock 35 Voodoo Doll, The 'Razzberries' crew doesn't worry too much 5/14-31 — We often stop at the Chan- and went down to Long Beach to race on about provisioning because supplies are readily nel Islands, which are as close as 15 the Farr 40 Temptress. available at nearly every stop down the coast. miles from Ventura, but this time made 6/2 — We a 50-mile passage all the way to Marina overnighted at del Rey. This is a great place to stay, as King Harbor it’s close to shopping, movies and stores, YC in Redondo close to LAX — which made it convenient Beach, which for family members to fl y in and visit us is just 10 miles — and close to the California YC, home from Marina of the Cal Cup Regatta. Bruce raced in del Rey, and that event on the 65-ft sled Cheetah. did the Women Our daughter, son-in-law and 2-year-old on the Water — grandchild visited from Chicago. We even WOW — race got invited to a wedding at Greystone on the Farr 40 Manor in Beverly Hills, after which the White Knight. bride rode a mechanical bull in a local 6/3 — We bar. Yee-haw! over nighted While in Marina del Rey, it was also at Cabrillo YC in San Pedro, which is 20 SCOTT WELLS SCOTT CALIFORNIA

7/6-20 — We sailed 80 miles south to San Diego Bay, where over the next entrance breakwater, was awesome, with two weeks we’d get free short stays at waves 15 to 20 feet. As we entered the the San Diego YC, Southwestern YC, channel, we could see surfers who were Coronado Cays YC, the Coronado YC higher than our heads when riding waves and the Silvergate YC. The Police Dock on the other side of the breakwater. also has inexpensive berthing. Tragically, one surfer lost his life. The The sailing in San Diego Bay is done surge was so bad inside the harbor that in light air, but it’s tons of fun. There is there were no berths available. We had a lot of ship and military traffi c, so only no luck getting a berth from the Orange one beer can race a week is permitted. County Sheriff’s offi ce as there was too Bruce did it aboard the R/P Staghound. much surge to dock and because the In our attempt to beat Dennis Conner, we lifeguards were using the docks for CPR. got too close to shore and experienced a So we left and went 20 miles north to the violent grounding. I went fl ying, and still Long Beach YC and took a berth there. had bruises two months later. 7/27-28 — We spent the night at King There is also good sightseeing in San Harbor YC in Redondo Beach. It’s also Diego, including the U.S.S. Midway. possible to get a permit for four free days We did a Cortez Beer Can Race aboard of anchoring behind the breakwater. our sistership Paladin, and yet another Part of the charm of harbor hopping is meeting 7/29-31 — Marina del Rey. This time on the Flying Tiger R Nasty. We sailed new friends at yacht club dock parties . we stayed at the municipal marina next with our old friend Dale Parshall, and Oceanside and Dana Point. to Burton Chace Park, where they have reviewed the book he is writing on his 7/24-26 — We found ourselves in lots of activities such as free movies and experiences out of the Richmond YC Newport Harbor on ‘big wave day’. The music. In fact, we watched Grease from — including a cruise to the Marquesas surfing at the world famous Wedge, our lawn chairs. and a Singlehanded TransPac— both of which is on the west side of the west 8/1-31 — We took a berth for a month which we had roles in. at the California YC. Bruce was slated 7/21-23 — We overnighted at both to race in the PHRF championships at MARINE PRODUCTS THAT PERFORM

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to ours at the Richmond YC, we never Cabrillo Beach YC, but they were can- Getty Villa, and had a dock party at the met them until both our boats were at celled for lack of entries. PHRF seems to Cal YC to celebrate Bruce’s birthday. Catalina! Bruce Manchester, who races be fading down south, while one-design 9/1-8 — We sailed back to Catalina’s with us on Razzberries, joined us in racing is strong. At the Cal YC, the Farr Isthmus for Labor Day Weekend to enjoy Catalina, and later sailed with us to 40, Farr 30, Martin 242, J/105, Star and lots of activities, including the Buffalo Santa Barbara. Open 5.70 ﬂ eets are strong. Chip Toss. We got to visit with friends We also met the publisher of Lati- We en- tude, w h o tered Razz- was enjoy- berries in MORE CALIFORNIA CRUISING OPTIONS ing life, living the Santa and working For those more inclined to cruising than racing in Southern California, there are lots of other places that M o n i c a aboard Prof- weren’t mentioned, for example, San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz and Anacapa Islands. You can anchor Windjam- ligate on the around the corner off Pt. Dume, and if the weather is mild, right off Malibu. Paddle in with your board and m e r s Y C hook at Har- you’re sure to get a warm — cough, cough — welcome from the other surfers. With a permit you get four double- bor Reef. He free days on the hook behind the Redondo Breakwater. Except for Cat Harbor, most free Catalina Harbor h a n d e d s u g g e s t e d anchoring is in deep water, so don’t skimp on the ground tackle. There is one anchorage in Newport Harbor c r u i s e we write this where you can stay for 72 hours without a permit — but only once a month. If you don’t live in San Diego race, and article. County, you can also get a three-month permit to live aboard near the Coast Guard Station. took first The Golden State has many problems, but from your anchored boat at places like Santa Cruz Island, p l a c e ! Cojo or Cat Harbor, they seem so very far away. Enjoy! While still S o a s berthed at you can see, the Cal YC, Bruce did a beer can race on who cruised in from yacht clubs that there are plenty of people to meet and the 1D-48 Emirage II, did the eight-race we’d stayed at. And we ﬁ nally met George places to see, and countless races and Schock 35 Nationals on Voodoo Doll, had Balmer and Carolyn Jones of Kestrel. cruises to enjoy when doing a California dinner with fellow Richmond YC mem- Even though they keep their boat close Cruise. You don’t have to leave the coun- bers who were cruising Southern Cali- try to enjoy your boat. fornia that summer, visited the nearby — bruce & lina nesbit MARINE PRODUCTS THAT PERFORM

Beer Can racing is one of the most Spread — check out the variety in the ﬂ eet at Santa Cruz YC's extemporaneous Wednesday night time-honored traditions at almost every race. Insets, clockwise from top-left — Jack Gordon puts the helm down on 'Roller Coaster,' Beer yacht club and sailing center in the Can races make for smiles; it's so intense you can even do it with a beverage in one hand. country. Here in Northern California, it's better way to get some weekday sailing races, hands-down. There's rarely a pro- practiced at nearly every club with any therapy than to take advantage of one of test, yelling is scarce — it's usually met kind of racing program. Because there the most relaxed no-fuss manifestations with the disapproval of everyone else. are so many clubs within such a small of sailboat racing. And, there's a bunch of like-minded area, there are one or two races every Have you been thinking about going people to socialize with afterwards. The night of the week. That means unless you racing, but feel intimidated by a hyper- races range from the "serious" — which work night shifts, you ought to be able to competitive atmosphere? Beer can races in the case of beer can racing means a

ALL PHOTOS LATITUDE / ROB LATITUDE PHOTOS ALL ﬁ nd one that works for you. There's no are the best no-pressure, entry-level race committee and scoring — to infor- BEER CAN RACING

Clockwise from top left — Morgan Larson helms the Santa Cruz Wednesday night race 'rabbit', the Sydney 38 'Animal'; Jon Stewart and Angie Rowland catch up after a Corinthian YC Friday night race; A-Cat sailor Andy Kolb heads for the barn after a Wednesday night race in Santa Cruz; Jay Crum tries, and fails, to look serious while calling tactics aboard 'Roller Coaster'; almost every YC has a neighborhood watering hole where the masses congregate when the Club bar shuts down at a reasonable hour, in Santa Cruz it's Brady's Yacht Club; Logan Dini and Jaden Ribera out for a 'Roller Coaster', both of their dads were aboard; the attitude might be mellow, but the racing's still close in most Beer Can series; 'Outrageous' is showing up for a Beer Can race with a longboarded bottom; we decided to withhold the names of these 'Tiburon' grommets, along with the details of their caffeine-fueled hijinks . . . hey, where did all the mixer go? mal — where there's no real organization broadcasting the course to the fl eet on sails across the fl eet on port tack while per se. a megaphone before the start. Instead all the other boats take its transom; there The Santa Cruz YC Wednesday night of a starting line, there's a "rabbit" start, aren't any guns, nor is there a chance of races fall into the latter category. They're where a designated boat, the "rabbit" — being called OCS, or a need for a stop- unoffi cial: no scores are taken, and the in this case belonging to the same family watch. It's about as simple as it gets. "race committee" is actually racing too, that's done the honors for 40 years — While inclusive and informal, beer

Page 110 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 — NEED A REASON?

can racing is deﬁ nitely worthwhile for tactics just for giggles aboard our ride Latitude 38 Associate Publisher John even the most accomplished sailors. We for the night: Santa Cruz YC-sailor Jack Arndt's Ranger 33 Summer Sailstice has witnessed a perfect example of this phe- Gordon's SC 50 Roller Coaster. a packed cockpit — is Steve Stroub's SC nomenon when we went down to Santa 37 Tiburon. Cruz to, er, research this article. The tactician during our most recent When we got out on the water, we A Corinthian YC Friday night race Friday night aboard Tiburon was 1996 weren't at all surprised to ﬁ nd someone is a little different, but by not much. Soling Bronze Medallist Jim Barton, like former 505 World Champion, pro While it enjoys the same type of friendly while our main trimmer was former sailor and Louis Vuitton Cup veteran atmosphere and post-race revelry, the Etchells Fleet 12 Season Champion Ben Morgan Larson at the helm of the "rab- races are started from the club's race Wells, both of whom brought their kids bit," enjoying the racing like everyone deck and scores are kept. Our ride for along with them. else. Veteran pro Jay Crum was calling the Corinthian Friday nights — when Even the most serious racers enjoy

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 111 BEER CAN RACING

the lighter side of the sport that beer can 8) Thou shalt always go to the yacht racing represents. For example, Philippe club afterwards. Kahn, he of the gigantic Pegasus Racing 9) Thou shalt bring thy spouse, kids, program, sailed in both events — a mere friends and whoever else wants to go. ﬁ ve days apart. He's not a pro, but he 10) Thou shalt not worry; thou shalt sails as much, if not more, than many be happy. pros. Despite all that sailing, he still makes time for week-night racing. The long version makes a great read Have you been looking for a way to and is available at our website in the get your spouse or kids to go racing "wisdom" section, while the best resource with you? There's no better way than a for ﬁ nding a Beer Can race near you is beer can race. In addition to being less the 2010 Northern California Racing Cal- intense, the races are shorter than most endar and YRA Master Schedule — avail- weekend races. The lure of a post-race able in print at our World Headquarters BBQ and a Shirley Temple is usually in beautiful Mill Valley and many of the more than enough to get the kids to come LATITUDE/ROB places you pick up your copy of Latitude out, and before long they'll start getting 38, or online at www.latitude38.com. mighty P-O'd if you don't bring them. As long as there's enough light and enough Once you get the beer can racing bug, The only things you really need to breeze, there's no reason why you can't spend at you'll probably be tempted to start going know about Beer Can racing are covered least one night a week Beer Can racing. more than once a week. If you do, don't by a time-honored tome: 3) Thou shalt not run out of beer. forget Latitude's Beer Can Challenge — 4) Thou shalt not covet thy competitor's sail a beer can race every night of the The 10 Commandments boat, sails, equipment, crew or rating. week, send your story and photographic of Beer Can Racing: 5) Thou shalt not amp out. proof to [email protected], and we'll 1) Thou shalt not take anything other than 6) Thou shalt not protest thy neighbor. send you some Latitude swag. safety too seriously. 7) Thou shalt not mess up thy boat. What are you waiting for? We'll see 2) Thou shalt honor the racing rules if you out there! thou knowest them. — latitude/rg ONE CALL DID IT ALL One call raised the boom, recut the mainsail, got a new dodger, and tuned the rig. We brought the best CALL FOR vendors together to create CRUISING a seamless transaction. UPGRADES! We're famous for race results, but most of our clients are cruisers.

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 113 CUBA THROUGH THE BACK DOOR —

Cuba: "A place where the communist ideology continues side by side with the encroaching and inevitable capital- than stopping at the more western port the quay. Once we were well-secured, ism," wrote author Andrei Codrescu. of entry of La Coloma. This was the fi rst there were smiles all around and Edu- Why visit Cuba? Probably a combina- rule we broke in Cuba. It’s important to ardo stepped forth speaking American- tion of ‘60’s-era romanticism and plain remember that Cuba is neither a "can accented English, introducing himself as old curiosity, coupled with the excite- country" such as Mexico, nor a "cannot ment of the forbidden fruit. Also, the country" such as Los Estados Unidos. promise of unspoiled cays and stunning Rather, it is a totalitarian country fi rmly Offi cials were called from held together with an unbelievable number of rules, which are not just avidly the main town . . . and the enforced on us Norte Americanos, we drug- and arms-sniffi ng were told repeatedly, but on everyone. With 40 to 45 knots forecast the follow- dog was brought onboard. ing day, we were looking for a good place to hide. At Punte del Este on Isla Juven- tud there is a beautiful anchorage that the marina manager and employee of the we visited later, but for the approaching nearby Colony Hotel. He asked where we major cold front we were hoping for more were coming from and when I cheerily protection. Most insurance coverage replied "Isla Mujeres, Mexico” his face does not insure American-fl agged ves- dropped. Turns out the info in Calder's sels in Cuban waters unless they have book was out of date, as it is no longer U.S. paperwork in order for an offi cial visit. We originally With a cigar fi rmly wedged between his lips and had planned to use a Panama hat on his head, this friendly fellow commie Cuba as cov- cuts a classic image of a Cuban gentleman. er for our trip east, turquoise-blue waters as promised by an but now everything American cruiser in Puerta Vallarta who changed. We were extolled the beauties of Cuba’s southern going to the land coast. of Che and Fidel, Many Americans, including us, are somewhat retracing fi rst attracted to the idea of going to the original dozen Havana in the footsteps of Hemingway, freedom fighters' quaffing mojitos and listening to the voyage from Mexico strains of the Buena Vista Social Club. to Cuba in the Gran- I made a feeble attempt to visit the north ma. (Somewhat iron- shore when returning one May from ically, Fidel had pur- Antigua. Charts in hand, with some chased the Granma trepidation I headed north and west af- from an American ter Sailing Week. After hearing from the in Mexico who had cruising community that the only place named it in honor to check in was Havana, we were forced of his grandmother, to bypass 400 miles of the Cuban coast, but misspelled it.) which was just the excuse I needed to put my fears to rest and change course for the Bahamas. Arriving later in Miami A rriving in to the full American homecoming, com- the small but well- plete with drug-sniffi ng dogs and unduly protected (5-foot offi cious customs offi cers, I knew I was draft) harbor of Ma- back in the States. rina Siguanea, we This time, however, we decided that passed the Guarda the south coast of Cuba would do us well, post complete with as it is an easy jump from Isla Mujeres, camoufl aged guard Mexico, across the Yucatan Channel to tower (and a guard the western tip of Cuba. The southern inside), barbed wire coast of Cuba makes a northwest to fences and a huge southeast arc, some 240 miles long, mural of Che. Really, which we hoped would offer protection not knowing what to from the prevailing easterlies as we expect with the stars worked our way to the eastern Carib- and stripes fl ying, we bean. Placing our trust in Nigel Calder’s crept into the har- decades old Cuba, A Cruising Guide we bor. A man appeared continued on to Isla de Juventud rather and motioned us to

Page 114 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 AN UNPLANNED VISITA

possible to do an international check-in There was one at Marina Siguanea. habitable structure Guards were immediately dispatched and a giant white to the quay to ensure that we remained geodesic dome ashore onboard. Offi cials were called from the at Punte del Este, but main town of Nueva Gerona and the the weather was cold drug- and arms-sniffi ng dog was brought (we were in a cold onboard. No fewer than 12 Cubans were front, after all), so required to check us over and tell us we were content to that we could not check in except at an cozy up on the boat offi cial international port of entry. This and watch a movie, was a national port of entry. Each was The Motorcycle Dia- very polite and smiling, curious to talk ries — no kidding! to us, friendly, yet fi rm in their rules. A We had each read few hours later, word came down from Jon Lee Anderson’s the higher ups that we were to be allowed defi nitive, 750-page, to move about the marina, but could not solidly documented leave the fenced area, not even to go to biography of Che the hotel for a drink. while cruising Mexico the year before. 'Escapade' was lookin' good as she led the My wife, Debra, and I are antsy and fl eet out of Bahia Santa Maria during the '08 inquisitive by nature. Two Ha-Ha rally. days whiling our time in this By now our curiosity was over- party apparatus, not spying really, but gloomy marina were enough. coming our desire to hang out in the keeping an eye on the tourists? The forecast had the wind beautiful cays, and the weather was Cayo Largo is a foreign exchange ma- down to 20 to 25 knots gloomy. The next day we pushed on to chine, and foreign exchange is what the from the north, which would Cayo Largo. While we had recently spent Cuban government needs most. Facing make for a comfortable ride, a month in the fabulously beautiful San economic disaster in the 90’s, Castro reaching along the lee of Isla Blas Islands, nothing prepared us for allowed a rudimentary market economy de Juventud in our heavy the sheer beauty of Cayo Largo and the to take hold to service the tourists who catamaran. The offi cials let azure blues of the waters there. The sand were then, due to the collapse of sugar us go on with promises to was blindingly white and waterways and the loss of Soviet handouts, the main do a proper international meandered to the interior of the Cay. We source of 'real' money. You’re not going check-in the following day spotted a couple of boats anchored out to buy food or fuel on the world market in Cayo Largo. We knew from and a handful of others in the impec- with Cuban pesos. Enter the CUC — the outset that we would not cably kept marina. After being waved to convertible pesos. At this writing, one We met all sorts of Cuban of- a berth, we were then greeted by Piero, yanqui dollar is worth mas o menos 80% fi cials, and most of them were the self-described PR man who called the of one “kook.” What a slap in the face! cheerful and friendly. offi cials to complete our international You can’t even get one to one exchange check-in. They for the worthless CUC’s. Their only use is had been expect- in the parallel Cuban tourist economy. Florida ing us as they The tourist hotels and the handful of Keys had received a marinas are largely joint ventures with call from Marina Latin American, Canadian and European Havana Siguanea. Obvi- countries. Everyone is in business here Isla ously, Big Broth- except for the United States of America. Mujeres • er was watching. We have a crushing 50-year-old embargo Once again, C U B A against the kind people of this island. I’m • the dozen offi cials just a simple cruiser, not a foreign policy Cienfuegos were extremely scholar, but what is there that Cuba can- Isla de friendly, even not purchase, if it had the money, from Juventud sharing a beer a country other than the United States? Santiago• de Cuba onboard, and al- Mexico has joint-ventured the many most apologetic huge concrete plants and Hugo Chavez about the num- keeps pumping oil. Caribbean Sea ber of papers to JAMAICA I think the Cuban government gets be fi lled out. Pie- more mileage out of the embargo than ro, self-appointed the U.S. government. If you’re an Ameri- make it to Cayo Largo in one as our new best friend, answered our can politician in favor of the embargo, day. many questions, arranged credit at the you get to carry southern Dade County, Our fi rst and continu- bar as we had no Cuban local money, which probably puts the whole state of ing impression of this part and drank mojitos with us. Piero has had Florida’s electoral votes into your col- of Cuba was that is was all this cush job for 21 years. I wondered umn. However, if you are the "bearded but deserted. how he got it? Was he really part of the one" as the Cubans refer to Fidel, you get

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 115 CUBA THROUGH THE BACK DOOR —

an all-around enemy that you can scapegoat to whip your people into a frenzy. Or at least to keep them our way. Then our imaginations got focused on the fact that the glori- the best of us in the darkness. we ous revolution has not been able saw what we assumed were Cuban to produce a functioning economy gunboats shadowing our course despite the benefi cial institutions it two miles to port. The next day we has created for the mass of Cuban found out the 'gunboats' were our people, namely its often-touted friends from France and the D.R. health care system and universal I asked Michel what he thought education. about cutting through the prohibited zone, he replied "I’m French, I thought nothing of it!" I’m from In Cayo Largo we made the California and I felt the same way. acquaintance of Isabel and Michel, We became fast friends! Ivy League-educated Parisians who As we arrived in Cienfuegos, my cruise for about four to six months nerves were a little shot because a year. They had become fast our insurance wasn't invalid, we friends with Louis and Sophia — had no legal rights, we had no who are bona fi de characters from embassy in the country, and for all the Dominican Republic — over the VHF, You've gotta love a country where government the romanticism surrounding Che and as each was crossing the Yucatan Chan- offi cials will lighten up and share a beer with the revolution, we were operating in a nel. Louis had worked in many countries you after the paperwork's completed. totalitarian state. Facist or communist, for Shell Oil and was enjoying two years no exception as we rode from one end of totalitarian states are always bad news. of his retirement circumnavigating the Cayo Largo to the other. We stopped by We didn’t have good charts, as we'd Caribbean with his signifi cant other, several of the all-inclusive tourist hotels originally only planned to use Cuba as Sophia. Until recently, she managed the and found an interesting old stone tower a buffer from the easterly trade winds. National Symphony of the D.R., which that now serves as part of a landscape And the Calder guidebook we had was had been founded by her grandfather. nursery. Passing the international air- seriously out of date. What were people of this caliber doing in port, Debra commented, "Have you ever We did know, however, that the ma- commie Cuba? As they said goodbye to seen an airport with only one car in the rina was located adjacent to a multistory sail east, we did not know that we would parking lot?" It was all very surreal. No hotel near the readily identifi able Punta fi nd out the answer to that question and towns. No Cubans other than the small Gorda, and we had the moonlight. Bahia share many experiences with them later village of dormitories for the workers. A on. tourist ghetto. Prices at the bar in the Enjoying some of the very scarce nice marina were the same as back home. Then our imaginations got the weather since we'd left Cartagena nearly The concept of leaving the marina best of us in the darkness. We a month before, we decided to explore to anchor out overnight and continue saw what we assumed were on the next morning or the day after was not happening Cuban gunboats shadowing our here in Cuba. You have to course two miles to port. show up back at the marina for re-inspection and a national despacho to move de Cienfuegos is far larger than it had your boat to the next town. appeared to me in the photographs I By now I had reached my had seen on the Internet. It was 5 miles admittedly rather short limit from the entrance of the bay to Punta of patience with offi cialdom Gorda. We couldn’t ID the marina in the and demanded to leave im- darkness. With yet another cold front mediately. Paperwork was bringing the north wind, it appeared that completed immediately af- where the marina should be we would ter lunch and we were on have a downwind entrance in 15 knots our way to Cienfuegos on of wind. Not something we wanted to try the mainland. Nigel Calder at midnight. We headed around Punta wrote that this was a very Gorda and found a nice calm spot to an- large bay entered through chor, complete with loud Cuban music, a narrow but well-lit chan- in the lee of the point. The second time There may not be much tread on these tires, nel, and that it was easy to we countervened the rules! but they still get the job done. For generations, enter at night. Fortunately we had a full While rounding the point looking for Cubans have been making do. moon. the marina the next morning, we spotted the island by bicycle. We haven’t used Sailing from the cays to Cienfuegos two sloops coming up the channel. Louis our bikes as much as we'd anticipated on a direct course takes you through a and Michel had elected to anchor out since leaving California, but when we "prohibited" zone. The moon was out, the behind an island — seriously against the have taken them out for a ride it has wind 15-22 on the beam so we weren’t rules. For our own indiscretion, we had always been wonderful. This day was going to be denied by sailing way out of to sign a confession, then another docu-

Page 116 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 AN UNPLANNED VISITA

ment promising never to do an infraction to our backpack- on any subsequent trips to Cuba! Yeah, ing youth. right, I’m going to risk my boat on a lee The food in shore rather than anchor a half mile Cuba is horren- away in the lee of the point? But guess dous by California what? It’s their ball game and you play standards. There's by their rules. I will say I had two of the not a Whole Foods marina offi cials tell me sotto voce that in sight. (Just kid- there were too many rules and this was ding!) Cienfuegos a stupid thing for the offi cials to enforce. was city enough The Guarda offi cial even blamed it on his for us, and we superior when it was time to leave and I could escape the was passing out propinas. crushing poverty of the majority of the population by Michael, our friend from Mill Val- returning to the ley, had fl own into Cancun and then on boat. It’s heart to Havana, spending a couple of days wrenching to see carousing around the big city before tak- a people literally starving to death. You won't fi nd American-style supermarkets in ing the four-hour bus ride to join us at There appears to be little incentive to Cuba, but some types of fruits and veggies are Cienfuegos. Judging by his photos, we do too much. Many of the older genera- readily available from street-side vendors. missed a lot of the Cuban experience, but tion are reportedly still believers in the architecture is crumbling. There is one truth be told, we are so comfortable living revolution, but the younger people have shopping street where you can buy food on our big cat that enduring so many already been seduced by hip western and goods not available to the average Cuban restaurant meals and nights in wear and try to hustle a few 'kooks' Cuban, if you have the CUC’s. It’s a two- shoddy hotels would have best been left from the tourists. The beautiful colonial tiered economy.

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 117 CUBA THROUGH THE BACK DOOR —

Nonetheless, there is no beg- last here. A decade ago, the dollar ging as is common in Mexico and stores didn’t exist and the tourist San Francisco. The people have facilities were just taking hold. a certain dignity, a grace in the They think the people look a little way they carry themselves. Mu- better fed now. Turns out, their sic is abundant. The regime has reasons for visiting Cuba were the figured out that Cuban music same as ours: two parts curiosity is a valuable export. Returning plus a desire to cruise the offshore to the marina one night I was islands. surprised and pleased to see our immigration offi cer singing and playing his guitar at a pot luck The irony of the revolution has party organized by the French to be that Che Guevara is the most cruisers. Once he retires in a few commercialized freedom fi ghter in years, he plans to devote his time history! Even the Cubans — espe- to his music. We bought vegetables cially the Cubans — are cashing at an organic farm on the side of in on Che. You can buy postcards, the road for a pittance with the posters and books full of pictures real Cuban pesos which are next of Che doing everything but killing to worthless. The rumor is that surplus What Cuba lacks in industry and modern tech- people. He’s smoking cigars (in defi ance produce is funneled to private markets. nology, it makes up for with a universal passion of his emphysema), laughing, frowning Some Cubans are allowed to open small for its rich musical traditions. and leading his men. Fidel is not the two- or three-room hotels and the best Cuba as it is now, before the creeping commercial face of the revolution, but place to fi nd a meal is at one of these capitalism changes it for good. These he was always in charge, using Che for casa particulars. are the thoughts of my French friends, his charisma and ideological zeal. Fidel Flawed as it is, economic self-interest Michel and Isabel. They said they could was the master politician. is the way to make people productive. see that many changes have occured Santa Clara, located in the mountains That’s why so many people want to see during the nine years since they were behind Cienfuegos, houses the museum

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Page 118 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 AN UNPLANNED VISITA

and fi nal resting place of Che Guevara. In Cienfuegos there His remains were repatriated from Bo- is a chain-link gate livia in the ‘90’s. Both Santa Clara and on the dock and of- the beautiful colonial town of Trinidad fi ces for the offi cials have been cleaned up and repainted to just outside. Debra provide a backdrop for tourists seek- was stopped leaving ing the Cuban experience. One of our the compound with a more interesting, but sad, experiences portable VHF in her occurred on the way to Trinidad when hand. The female Ad- our taxi driver took a wrong turn and we uana agent explained drove through the unvarnished Cuban that communication countryside. Here is how the people were radios and GPS units really living: dilapidated houses with are not allowed in Cuba. I can’t second guess the bearded one The irony of the revolution to know if he is still has to be that Che Guevara living in the ‘50s of his revolution and thinks we might vector in A friendly face and a light-hearted attitude. De- is the most commercialized the contras with our handheld, or if it is spite the many hardships of life in Cuba today, freedom fi ghter in history! just another ploy to remind the popula- its people tend to look on the bright side. tion of the dangers posed to their system drinking mojitos on the terrace. This by foreigners. Perhaps the leaders are all huge terrace had about three groups openings for windows, people walking just paranoid. of people, when there was seating for miles to the nearest main road to try to Once out of the compound, life was 40 to 50. A local jinataro convinced us hitch a ride, no cars at all, with only a pretty decent for the cruisers. We would of the superior food at his friend's casa fortunate few having a horse to ride; sub- go to the former yacht club, a grand particular and hustled the seven of us sistence agriculture, but at a lower level structure rivaling any yacht club in into a horse-drawn cart. The cart driver than we had seen since Nicaragua. the U.S. for watching the sunset, while had to use the back roads to avoid the

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 119 CUBA THROUGH THE BACK DOOR

policia because caballos quench our curiosity. But are not offi cially allowed to the impending arrival of carry foreigners. Tourists a major cold front gave were supposed to use the us the opportunity to small fl eet of state-owned work our way east on the Cuba Taxis which charge north wind rather than ten times as much. Dining pounding it out against at this particular casa was the easterlies. The other very pleasant. Certainly departing cruisers were due to the fact that it was waiting for the cold front a private enterprise, the to pass for a nice pleas- owners had decorated their ant sail east. We had way open-air bar and restaurant too far to go, so elected in a very comfortable setting. to go with the forecast The food was reasonably 30-knot winds. A great good. Just don’t order steak, choice as it turned out, because there is no beef in as we made a quick 400 Cuba. A very pleasant evening was had "There's no problem without a solution," says miles to the east before we had to turn by all in a setting not even available to the ever-philosophical Fidel, "so try to look for the engine on to get us into Boca Chica the average Cuban. alternatives." in the D.R., a scant three and a half days in contrast to the younger generation, later. who were not part of the struggle against We’ll have to return to Cuba one day For us, visiting Cuba was a fasci- the fascist Batista rulers and already to fully enjoy the beautiful waters and nating way to experience the reality of dress in knock-off designer outfi ts while beaches of the cays of the southern the totalitarian state and the strange waiting for a better life. The question on coast. But that’s okay. It was very en- contraditctions of its people. Those who everyone’s minds seems to be: What hap- lightening to see communist Cuba before still believe in the Revolution wonder why pens after ‘the bearded one’ passes? unrelenting capitalism takes over. their lives are as hard as they are now, We sailed out of Cuba too soon to — greg dorland

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 121 MAX EBB

My fancy low-stretch spinnaker sheets are about the worst possible choice for dock lines. Dock lines should be stretchy. And I really hate using boat cushions for fenders. But the boat had been stripped bare for the fi rst big race of the season, and we were buried deep in the interior of a massive raft-up. The only motion we would be likely to feel all night would be caused by drunken sailors stumbling across our foredeck searching for their boats. It was the usual Season Opener routine, and the party had begun. "No pupus until the sails are folded," I commanded my crew as the last of the makeshift lines and fenders were set. This was not something they took lightly. We had used almost every sail in the inventory, and it would mean an unwelcome delay to our trip to the bar. "Fold-a-thon!" said Lee Helm as she pulled on a handful of mainsail leech, gesturing for one of the larger crew to start fl aking from the luff end. The rest of the crew jumped to it, getting the main out of the way fi rst and then draping jibs over the boom to fold them since we had no dock to stand on for our usual sail-fl aking routine. To speed things up I allowed them to fold the big jibs lengthwise fi rst — with a vertical fold so that they were narrower than the boom — and then fold them in half on a horizontal fold line, after which they could be rolled from the fold to the corners. LATITUDE / JR LATITUDE "There's something about this whole sail-folding exercise that, like, re- "Think farther outside the box," Lee their center hulls in six knots of wind?" minds me of large crews hoisting square prompted. "It's the rig, Max. Wings. I mean, yards or heavy gaffs up their wooden "You mean propeller boats? Like that if we had a wing instead of soft sails, rigs," complained Lee. land yacht contraption on YouTube that we'd be up at the bar by now. And we "You like gaff rigs?" replied my main- goes dead downwind faster than the true wouldn't have sore joints from grinding sail trimmer. "They look cool, but what a wind speed?" winches all day, and the cabin wouldn't lot of extra work they are to set. And they "Not that far outside of the box," said be all damp and clammy from the wet never trim right, what with all that twist, Lee as she walked toward him with the sails we dragged through it. And you and they don't work nearly as effi ciently zipper pull to close the bag on a rolled-up wouldn't be worried about using your as modern rigs. You do realize they went genoa. "What were we all staying up late high-tech sheets for dock lines because out of style over to watch on TV just we wouldn't be using sheets at all." 100 years ago? For a couple of months "Get real, Lee," sighed the foredeck good reason." ago?" crew, emerging from the hatch behind a "That's what I "Gaff to Bermudian was "Now I get it. big bag containing a stuffed spinnaker mean," said Lee. a great leap forward." The A-cup. What a that had to be pulled out and repacked. "I totally get the disaster that was." "Think how much hassle it would be feeling that we're "No way," in- to unstep a wing after each sail. Those on the wrong side sisted Lee. "It was things don't fold up, you know." of that same kind of transition." the best America's Cup ever. Even better "No, think this through," she argued. "What could be easier to work with than the Deed of Challenge race from the "Boats that go two or three times the than these super-light high-tech sails?" giant New Zealand monohull in '88, from speed of the wind have rigs designed for he asked. "Unless you think we should what I've read about it." really high loads. Take, for example, a all be racing catboats or fractional rigs "Mileage varies," I said. "But Lee, are wing optimized for 12 knots of true wind with those tiny one-size-for-all-wind- you saying that all this is going to be speed on a boat that goes twice wind speeds working jibs." made obsolete by big trimarans that fl y speed. The apparent wind will be close to

Page 122 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 ON A WING AND A KITE

The evolution from the gaff rig (left) to the ally refers to the method of staying, not Bermuda rig (right) meant more effi ciency at the absence of a gaff. But sure, gaff to the cost of less downwind sail area, requiring "It would take a gust of 46 knots to Bermudian was a great leap forward in the addition of a spinnaker. Where will the equal the sailing loads on the rig in just effi ciency and a big reduction in labor." transition to wing sails lead? twelve knots of true wind. And the wing "Interesting analogy," I said, con- doesn't fl og, so more wind than that isn't templating the disappearance of soft likely to hurt it. As long as you can hold sails except during the Master Mariners the boat's corners down, which you can Regatta. "I hope you're wrong." do with water ballast if there's no dock "Why? No more hoisting and lowering, on all sides to tie it to. You could leave no more high tension leeches to control the wing up all summer and it would twist, no more grinding winches. Even be perfectly happy. And it's so not just without powered winches, it takes a heck theoretical. Last I heard, the Stars and of a lot less power to trim a balanced wing Stripes cat was owned by a hotel near than a soft sail. And, like, no more cabin Mexico City, and moored on a lake with full of damp sails after a race." the wing left up." "I still want a rig that I can fold up," "Didn't Oracle leave their rig up at I said. "Or change the area to match night?" asked the mainsail trimmer. changes in wind speed. And by the way, "Oh, sure, " said the foredeck crew as let's leave all these sails on deck for the he ran the spinnaker tapes. "But they night, so we have some room in the for- had people on board for anchor watch. ward cabin." Although, in all fairness I'm not sure "No fl ogging, no luffi ng with a wing," what they would have done if the wind she reminded me. "You can feather. had really come up." You can change the size of the gaps "Well I, for one, expected to see some between the elements. Airliner wings form of consumer wing sail spin-off on change shape for a wide range of differ- the market by now," added another crew. ent speeds. And you can even fold it in "What's taking them so long?" thirds, if it's a three-element wing with "Takes time," Lee suggested. "The AC enough travel in the hinges." is advance warning of the next big tran- "Mechanical nightmare," said the sition in sailing. It’s really a lot like the foredeck crew. transition a hundred years ago when the "No worse than a three-speed winch," countered Lee. I tried to imagine a wing folded in a vertical triangular tube. Lee drew a sketch to help, but I wasn't convinced. "I think I'd rather go unstayed and let the wing feather 360°," said the foredeck crew. "I can't think of how else to do a downwind docking, if the wing doesn't come down." "You could trim it leech-to-windward for a downwind docking situation," suggested the trimmer. "And for mooring, it's probably more important to wrap some sort of spoiler around it, so high lift is suppressed even in strong turbulence. But Lee, that means there will still be a little work to do putting it away. Some people might even want to hoist a combination cover and spoiler over their wing at night."

We discussed the brave new world of future sailing as we re-packed another Lift coeffi cients for various kinds of rigs as a function of angle of attack. It's easy to see why the three-element wing is so attractive, especially where sail area is limited. spinnaker. But I noticed that the boat next to us had a different post-race drill. 30 knots, and the lift coeffi cient will top gaff rig was phased out of recreational They were reviewing their race on a lap- out at, like, 2.4. At anchor, with a spoiler sailing." top computer, evidently showing video wrapped around the wing, it would be "You really think going from soft sails of their tacks and jibes as captured by hard to get a lift coeffi cient more than to hard wings is like going from gaff to their backstay-mounted camera. around 1.0, so even in a gust of, uh . . . ." Marconi?" I asked. "Some day," Lee predicted, "we will She paused for a second to hit some "Gaff to jib-headed or Bermudian, look at old video clips of people grinding buttons on her calculator watch. to be technically correct. Marconi re- winches and wonder why we put up with

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 123 MAX EBB

all that work for such low effi ciency." "I still don't think the wings will ever racer-cruiser of the future is a long, light be versatile enough to cover the whole monohull with just enough ballast to be range of sailing conditions," said the self-righting. It has a wing big enough foredeck crew. "Look, even the Oracle to sail well in light air upwind, but can AC boat had to use a jib in light air. handle a summer afternoon seabreeze by And those C-Class cats, they use wings simply feathering the wing a little. And because their class rules limit sail area. for reaching and running, if the race crew Otherwise, they'd fl y soft sails in light is on board, they set a giant kiteboard air, too." Lift and drag plotted together for a 3-element kite?" "You could be partly right," Lee con- C-Class catamaran wing sail section. At a lift "Maps pretty well with the transition ceded. "A boat with a conservative wing coeffi cient of 1.5, lift/drag ratio is 75:1. Three from gaff to jib-headed Bermudian with sail may need to supplement sail area in dimensional effects will reduce this signifi cantly spinnakers for downwind," explained light air, especially downwind. But there's for real foils, but it's still far better than what Lee. "The gaff was ineffi cient but big a totally better way to do that than with can be achieved with soft sails. enough to go downwind pretty well. The sails stretched between spars sticking up "How else are you going to get a lot modern rig is more effi cient, easier to from the boat," of sail area on a light monohull without handle, less work to set and trim, but She turned to look toward the river. pulling it over?" she asked in return. "A also smaller so it needs more area down- We couldn't see any water through all kite can be truly humongous without wind, so the spinnaker became part of the masts and rigging, but we did see adding any heeling moment." the inventory" what Lee had in mind. There was a large "Who says anyone will still be sailing I snapped the lid over the last spinna- kite circling and dipping up and down in a monohull?" asked the trimmer. ker bag and lowered it down the hatch. the breeze, evidently pulling an unseen "Marinas have just so many end ties," "Now we go to wings and kites," Lee kiteboarder back and forth across the noted the foredeck crew. continued. "Same deal: higher effi ciency, river. Doubtless, he or she was showing less sail area, less work, more speed. And off for the race boats still fi nishing. for powering up downwind we'll still have "So the boat of the future will fl y a kite "So let me see if I have all this to do something crazy." in light air?" I asked. straight," I said. "The multi-purpose — max ebb

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 125 THE RACING

It didn't matter whether you wanted to race inshore or offshore, shorthanded or fully-crewed, keelboat or dinghy, or all of the above, there were plenty of opportunities to race last month. We start our coverage with a look at a Bay Area institution, the Bullship, before getting a quick look at the Cabo Race. Next up is the Duxship, followed by the Doublehanded Farallones race. We come back inside the Bay for the SSS's Corinthian Race, before checking out the Laser Midwinters. After that there's a whole pile of Race Notes!

57th Bullship Regatta Gordie Nash just pipped Amen — one Bullship Grand Admiral John Amen of the class's busiest sailmakers — for had a tough call to make — start, or second at the post, while last year's postpone for a week or two — as boat winner, Skip Shapiro, was the top after boat arrived at the Sausalito YC the 'Clydesdale' (skipper over 200 lbs). The morning of April 10. A building south- top maiden voyager was Butch Michel, westerly preceding a front arrived earlier and Vickie Gilmour was the top woman. than forecasted Frank Zimmerman won the trophy for the and the Bay "farthest away" after traveling 456 miles was capping by for the race. 6 a.m. Although The postponement worked out great he made the for Fraser — he wasn't able to sail on the right call by any originally scheduled weekend. For us, metric, Amen though, it meant missing out on some- girded himself thing we'd been looking forward to since for any criticism our maiden voyage last year! You can fi nd and postponed complete results at www.eltoroyra.org. for two weeks LATITUDE/ROB to allow for new Newport to Cabo the start/fi nish The 800-mile '10 Corona Del Mar to arrangements Cabo San Lucas race was a little-boat Max Fraser, Bullship winner. WWW.H2OSHOTS.COM and a new Coast contest this year. Dr. Laura Schlessinger's Guard racing permit. J/125 Warrior won the race overall when Amen and the rest of the El Toro faith- scored on PHRF, ORR and IRC. Second ful were rewarded for their pragmatism overall came from the same division — when, just minutes before the 9 a.m. start Tim Fuller's J/125 Resolute — while Jim ERIK SIMONSON/ on April 24, the 24 sailors in the 57th Gregory's Pt. Richmond-based Schu- Bullship got a 6-knot breeze that carried macher 50 Morpheus came in at third them across the Bay from Sausalito to overall and fi rst in ORR D. San Francisco Marina in a little over an Gregory's crew of Richmond YC and hour. Aptos' Max Fraser won the race for Fleet 12 Etchells sailors including broth- the fi rst time, sailing the boat he grew up er Bob, North Sails' Pete McCormick, effect was pretty dramatic – the crew was in, but had since sold and borrowed back Tim Parsons, Andy Hamilton, Andrew fully hiked upwind in about 4.5-knots for the event. Whittome, Bob Branstad and Chris Smith of breeze. Rivers told us that for more "I started at the pin and headed were leading the race overall, according than 1.5 days, they sailed the boat hard, straight across the Bay," Fraser said. "I to the penultimate sked, but the J/125s pumping on every wave in what was gen- took one short covering hitch that was just snuck by at the end. erally a pretty light and uneventful race. maybe 100 feet. I found the relief fi rst As the smallest boat in her division, You can fi nd complete results at www. and sailed right out in front of them." Chip Megeath's Tiburon-based R/P 45 balboayachtclub.com. Criminal Mischief won ORR A, two spots Twenty-four sailors showed up for this year's Bull- ahead of Canadian Ashley Wolfe's Bay Duxship ship race, despite a two-week postponement. Area-based TP 52 Mayhem. The The OYRA's Duxship race had breeze Criminals, with Quantum Sails in the 20-plus range with seas in the SF's Jeff Thorpe navigating 10-ft range on April 24. The 25-mile and Robin Jeffers, Joe Penrod, Cityfront-Duxbury Reef-Lightship-home Campbell Rivers, Dan Malpas, jaunt outside the Bay brought out a Patrick Whitmarsh and Kevin quality 41-boat fl eet. Richards, won their division The elapsed-time winner, Criminal and their day, which they pretty Mischief, fi nished in 4h, 5m, 28s, but fell much seem to do every time to third in PHRO 1A behind Kevin Flani- they sail a West Coast distance gan and Greg Nelsen's Fox 44 Ocelot, race. which itself corrected out just 22 sec- As if she weren't power- onds ahead of Andy Costello and Peter ful enough already, Criminal Krueger's J/125 Double Trouble. Over-

JOHN DUKAT/RICHMOND YC JOHN DUKAT/RICHMOND Mischief received a square-top all honors went to the Shorthanded di- main over the winter, and the vision winner, John Kernot's Moore 24

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Once outside the Gate, the fl eet of about 65 boats in nine divisions was treated to a lumpy sea state with swells in the 10- to 14-ft range but never more than 12-15 knots of breeze until they got back into the Bay. Urs Rothacer and Pieter Versavel's F- 9RX Tatiana was the top multihull in the four-boat division, as well as the overall winner, fi nishing with an elapsed time of 6h, 35m, and 40s. A favorable rating — they rated even with a Farr 36 OD — put them 35 minutes ahead of Timber Wolf. Elapsed time honors went to Patrick Whitmarsh and Mo Gutenkunst aboard Andy Costello's J/125 Double Trou- ble. Costello agreed to let the boys sail the boat when he thought he'd be out of town. His plans changed, but he let them take it anyway — well most of it. You'll note that Costello took the spread photo on the following pages from his RIB, and that Whitmarsh and Guten- kunst look just a little up-range for the 2A kite they're fl ying. "We defi nitely pushed that kite to the max," Whitmarsh said. "We set on starboard at the top of the island and then gybed, rolled Rancho Deluxe and hung on for the next 25 miles. We had no choice because Andy understandably wouldn't let us take his new 3A." Paxton and Moore did a horizon job on the rest of the Express 27s — at eight boats, the largest one design class in the race. The duo fi nished more than a half- hour sooner than the next Express. "We were working the kite in the waves the whole way in," Irene's Moore said. The J/120s rumble downwind in big breeze at the lan Benjamin; 3) Zsa-Zsa, 1D35, Stan Glaros. (9 "I don't think anyone else was pushing St. Francis YC's J/Fest April 10-11; you'll fi nd the boats) that hard." results in the 'Box Scores' on pages 130-131. Complete results at: www.yra.org Attendance for this year's race was Banditos. PHRO 1 went to Mark Howe's down by 30%. While there's really no Farr 36 War Pony. David Britt's Bene- Doublehanded Farallones way to establish a link between the Coast teau 10R Split Water won PHRO 2, while David Hodges' history with the Bay Guard's EPIRB or PLB requirement for Jim Quanci's Cal 40 Green Buffalo went Area Multihull Association's classic an ocean race permit, we have to wonder away with the honors in PHRO 3. Doublehanded Farallones Race involves if it had something to do with the drop in a lot of wins, and this year was no differ- Mark Howe's Farr 36 OD 'War Pony' lightin' it up on OYRA DUXSHIP (4/24) ent. Hodges and co-skipper Scott Parker the way in from the Lightship during the OYRA's PHRO 1A — 1) Ocelot, Fox 44, Kevin Flanigan/ sailed the former's Farr 38 Timber Wolf 25-mile Duxship race April 24. Greg Nelsen; 2) Double Trouble, J/125, Andy Cos- to the overall, corrected-time tello/Peter Kreuger; 3) Criminal Mischief, R/P 45, monohull win in this year's Chip Megeath. (6 boats) edition on April 3. PHRO 1 — 1) War Pony, Farr 36 OD, Mark Howe; 2) Head Rush, Antrim 27, Charlie Watt; 3) The duo snuck in just fi ve Bloom County, Mancebo 31, Charles James/John minutes ahead on correct- Stewart. (8 boats) ed time, of Will Paxton and PHRO 2 — 1) Split Water, Beneteau 10R, Da- Bryan Moore on Paxton's vid Britt; 2) TNT, Tripp 43, Brad Copper; 3) Rhum Express 27 Motorcycle Irene Boogie, Quest 33, Wayne Lamprey. (10 boats) after a little over 8 hours PHRO 3 — 1) Green Buffalo, Cal 40, Jim on the water. According to Quanci; 2) Red Sky, Olson 34, Brian Boschma; 3) Hodges, there was one par- WWW.LYONSIMAGING.COM Ay Caliente!, Beneteau 36.7, Aaron Kennedy. (8 ticular key to their win. boats) SHORTHANDED — 1) Banditos, Moore 24, "I couldn't have done it John Kernot; 2) Moonshine, Dogpatch 26, Dy- without Scott," he said. PETER LYONS/ THE RACING EXCEPT WHERE NOTED EXCEPT WWW.H2OSHOTS.COM ANDY COSTELLO ANDY ALL PHOTOS/ERIK SIMONSON/ PHOTOS/ERIK ALL

Clockwise from spread — Pat Whitmarsh and Mo Gutenkunst blast home aboard 'Double Trouble' from the Farallones in BAMA's DH Farallones race; 'Mo- torcycle Irene' slides under the Gate; 'Timber Wolf' beat all other monohulls on corrected time; 'Tatiana' was the top multihull and the overall winner; The Prince of Wales qualiﬁ er at Sausalito YC drew eight teams in what's becoming the Bay's match racing boat of choice, the J/22; The skifﬁ es got out on the Bay for the Richmond YC's Big Dinghy regatta and sailed with the multihulls, claiming the pursuit race title; it was breeze-on at the SSS' Corinthian Race and just about everyone was reefed; BONK!; Rick Wallace's cherried-out Columbia 36 'Bosporous II' rumbles along during the Corinthian Race, no reef required. attendance. Kurt Helmgren; 7) Moonshine, Dogpatch 26, Dy- PHRF 1 (PHRF < 80) — 1) Rancho Deluxe, lan Benjamin/Rufus Sjoberg; 8) Uno, Wyliecat 30, Swan 45, Michael Diepenbrock/Seadon Wijsen; 2) BAMA DOUBLEHANDED FARALLONES (4/3) Steve Wonner/Peter Jones; 9) Banditos, Moore Tivoli, Beneteau Frist 42s7, Judy Bentsen/Torben OVERALL — 1) Tatiana, F-9RX, Urs Rothacer/ 24, John Kernot/Scott Sorensen; 10) Jamani, Bentsen; 3) Ohana, Beneteau 45f5, Steve Hock- Pieter Versavel; 2) Timber Wolf, Farr 38, David J/120, Sean Mulvihill/Jeff Mulvihill. (57 boats) ing/Marika Edler. (8 boats) Hodges/Scott Parker; 3) Motorcycle Irene, Ex- MULTIHULLS — 1) Tatiana; 2) Papillon; 3) ULDB 2 (PHRF > 60) — 1) Moonshine; 2) press 27, Will Paxton/Bryan Moore; 4) Double Humdinger. (4 boats) Dragonsong, Olson 30, Sam McFadden/Mike Trouble, J/125, Pat Whitmarsh/Mo Gutenkunst; ULDB 1 (PHRF < 60) — 1) Double Trouble; 2) Kaminskas; 3) Daisy Cutter, Mini Transat Zero, 5) Papillon, F-27, Andrew Scott/Bruce Tomlinson; Jamani; 3) Recidivist, Schumacher 39, Ken Ol- Sean McGinn/Joe Wells. (7 boats) 6) Humdinger, Acapella Class mod., Larry Olsen/ cott/Larry Ho. (10 boats) PHRF 2 (80-123) — 1) Timber Wolf; 2) Tesa,

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Catalina 42, Steve Haas/Jeff Walter; 3) Metridium, 2 ﬁ nishers) example of how popular the SSS races Catalina 42, John Graves/Rick Gilmore. (6 boats) Complete results at: www.sfbama.org have become PHRF 3 (124-148) — 1) Uno; 2) Nancy, Wyliecat 30, Pat Broderick/Michael Andrews; 3) Corinthian Race SINGLEHANDED SAILING SOCIETY CORINTHI- Plus Sixteen, Olson 911S, Paul Disario/Tony The same weather that caused the AN RACE (4/10) Porche. (6 boats) Bullship to be cancelled on April 10 also SINGLEHANDED 2 (PHRF<104) — 1) Gavi- EXPRESS 27 — 1) Motorcycle Irene; 2) El Ra- lan, Wylie 39, Brian Lewis; 2) Lightspeed, Custom ton, Ray Lotto/Steve Carroll; 3) Wetsu, Phil Kras- wrought havoc on the Singlehanded Sailing Society's Corinthian Race. About Wylie 39, Rick Elkins. (2 boats) ner/Steve McCarthy. (7 boats) SINGLEHANDED 3 (PHRF 104-155) — 1) 40% of the ﬂ eet either didn't show up MOORE 24 — 1) Banditos; 2) Mooretician, Bandicoot, Wyliecat 30, Al Germain; 2) Friday Roe Patterson/Peter Schoen; 3) Fatuity, Michael or didn't make it all the way around the Harbor, Beneteau 323, Ryle Radke; 3) Redsky, Schaumburg/Brian Green. (5 boats) 18-mile course. What's more impressive Olson 34, Brian Boschma. (4 boats) PHRF 4 (PHRF > 149) — 1) Eyrie, Hawkfarm, is that 65 boats still managed to make SINGLEHANDED 4 (PHRF>155) — 1) Emer- Synthia Petroka/Bruce Ladd; 2) Bosporous II, Co- it around the course! It's just another ald, Yankee 30, Peter Jones; 2) Tchoupitoulas, lumbia 36, Rick Wallace/Todd Regenold. (4 boats,

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 129 THE RACING

Santana 22, Stephen Buckingham; 3) Tinker, Wil- derness 21, Matthew Beall. (3 boats) SINGLEHANDED 5 NON-SPINNAKER — 1) tifi cates from the club. Among the other Tivoli, Beneteau 42s7, Judy Bentsen; 2) Libations special awards that went out over the Too, Pearson 323, Richard Rollins; 3) Horizon, Is- lander 28, Bill Whilte. (5 boats) weekend included one for sailors who SINGLEHANDED SPORTBOAT) — 1) Mirage, arrived back at the dock with the "stain Black Soo, Ben Mewes; 2) Taz!!, Express 27, of shame" high atop their rigs. It read: George Lythcott; 3) Wetsu, Express 27, Phil Kras- "The Benthic Community of San Fran- ner. (3 boats) cisco Bay has examined the masthead DOUBLEHANDED 1 MULTIHULL — 1) Origa- of (insert sailor's name here) and has mi, Corsair 24, Ross Stein; 2) Humdinger, modi- found the masthead to be perfectly ac- fi ed Acapella 35, Larry Olsen. (2 boats) ceptable in all respects for continued DOUBLEHANDED 2 (PHRF<104) — 1) Tim- extraordinary service in the interests of ber Wolf, Farr 38, David Hodges; 2) Carmelita, Catalina 42, Christian Lewis; 3) Lightwave, J/105, mud plowing, sampling and redistribu- Richard Craig. (9 boats) tion in accordance with the generally DOUBLEHANDED 3 ((PHRF 104-155) — 1) accepted standards appropriate for this Paradigm, J/32, Luther Izmirian; 2) Blue Pearl, one design. The result of the core sam- JOHN DUKAT/RICHMOND YC JOHN DUKAT/RICHMOND Hunter 41, John Dahle; 3) Harp, Catalina 38, Mike ple found traceable amounts of bottom Mannix. (9 boats) paint, no silver, no lead whatsoever and DOUBLEHANDED 4 (PHRF>155) — 1) Can three Canadian nickels. Based on these O’Whoopass, Cal 20, Richard VonEhrenkrook; 2) Cal Maritime senior Sean Kelley had a banner core samples it has been determined Bosporus II, Columbia 36, Rick Wallace; 3) Top month, winning the open Laser Midwinters West at by competent local authorities that this Cat, Nonsuch 30 Ultra, Sal Balistreri. (7 boats) Richmond YC, and leading the Keelhaulers to a win DOUBLEHANDED NON-SPINNAKER — 1) at college sailing's St. Francis Intersectional — the dredging was legal and it is probable Basic Instinct, Elliott 1050, Jan Borjeson; 2) Q, latter due to his runaway A division win. that more dredging will be done." Schumacher 40, Glenn Isaacson; 3) Robin, C&C 35 Mk3, George Mann. (8 boats) for the class's Midwinters West regatta. LASER MIDWINTERS WEST (3/26-28, 7r/1t) DOUBLEHANDED SPORTBOAT — 1) Jet After seven races over the three-day re- FULL RIG — 1) Sean Kelly; 2) Kevin Taugher; Stream, JS9000, Daniel Alvarez; 2) Flight Risk, gatta, Cal Maritime Keelhauler Sean 3) Steve Bourdow; 4) John Bertrand; 5) Alexan- T650, Ben Landon; 3) Outsider, Azzura 310, Greg Kelly took the 54-boat full-rig division der Heinzemann. (54 boats) Nelsen. (7 boats) after he recovered from 26th in race fi ve RADIAL — 1) Kieran Chung; 2) Mitchell Kiss; DOUBLEHANDED EXPRESS 27 — 1) Des- — his throwout — to fi nish with a 1-4 3) Olin Paine; 4) Domenic Bove; 5) EJ O'Mara. perado, Mike Bruzzone; 2) Dianne, Steve Katz- (50 boats) for a 16-point total, four points clear of Complete results at: www.sfbaysss.com man; 3) Great White, Rachel Fogel. (5 boats) Long Beach sailor Kevin Taugher. New- DOUBLEHANDED WYLIECAT — 1) Lottat- port Harbor YC sailor Kieran Chung took ude, Johnathan Bloom. (1 boat) Race Notes Complete results at: www.sfbaysss.com the radial division with no score lower Golden Bears Shine Again — the than a seventh, fi nishing one-point clear WBRA convened for two races on their Laser Midwinters West of Mitchell Kiss. The top Bay Area sail- season-opening weekend hosted by Rich- Getting around Richmond YC the or in the Radials was Domenic Bove in mond YC April 24. The resurgent Bear weekend of March 26-28 was a little fourth. boat division, which turned out six boats more challenging than usual, what with Twelve black fl ag penalties were in its recent-memory-WBRA debut. The the 104 Lasers — both standard rig and 'awarded' throughout the weekend, the Folkboats brought out 11 teams and the radial — that descended on the club recipients of which received special cer- Knarrs 18.

Beer Cans haven't quite gotten into full- THE BOX SCORES swing yet, so this month's Box Scores has 34, Laurence Baskin; 3) Luna Sea, Islander 36, Gerry Brown, 8; 3) Jeannette, Frers 40 1T, 11. (8 both weekend and Beer Can events. We Dan Knox. (4 boats) boats) don't have the time or manpower to chase NON-SPINNAKER (PHRF >130) — 1) Carmel- Complete results at: www.berkeleyyc.org down all the results, so please post them on ita, Catalina 42, Christian Lewis; 2) Fancy, Cal 40, your club's website or send them directly Ericson 33, Chips Conlon. (2 boats) RESIN REGATTA SFYC (4/10, 2r, 0t) to the Racing Editor at [email protected]. NON-SPINNNAKER (PHRF 131+) — 1) Star ALERION EXPRESS 28 — 1) Ditzy, Ralf Mor- Ranger, Ranger 26, Simon James/Tim Walsh; 2) gan/Deborah Clark, 2 points; 2) Dream, Kirk Smith, Our format is to include the name of the Synergizer, Ericson 28, Larry Weinhoff; 3) Ruth E, 5; 3) Flying Machine, PJ Campﬁ eld, 7. (7 boats) boat, the type and length of boat, and the Catalina 27, Bill Davidson. (5 boats) ETCHELLS — 1) Mr. Natural, Ben Wells, 2 ﬁ rst and last names of the owner(s). We'll CATALINA 30 — 1) Friday's Eagle, Mark points; 2) JR, Bill Melbostad, 4; 3) House Money, do our best to get that info into Latitude 38 Hecht; 2) Huge, Bill Woodruff/Tanya Keen/Peter Jeff Moseley, 7. (6 boats) and 'Lectronic Latitude. Birch/Russell Houlston; 3) Grinnin' Bear, Roger & EXPRESS 27 — 1) El Raton, Ray Lotto, 3 John Tennyson. (7 boats) points; 2) Witchy Woman, Tom Jenkins, 5; 3) Mag- SOUTH BEACH YC FRIDAY NIGHT SERIES Complete results at: www.southbeachyc.com ic, Mike Reed, 5. (8 boats) (PRACTICE RACE) (4/23) MELGES 24 — 1) Bones, Robert Harf, 4 SPINNAKER (PHRF< 119) — 1) pHat Jack, WHEELER REGATTA BERKELEY YC (3r, 0t) points; 2) Smokin', Kevin Clark, 4; 3) Wilco, Daniel Express 37, Bob Lugliani; 2) 007, J/105, Bruce PHRF < 59 — 1) Jazzy, 1D35 10, Bob Turnbull, Wilhelm, 4. (7 boats) Blackie; 3) Kuai, Sabre 386, Daniel Thielman. (5 5 points; 2) Wicked, Farr 36 Richard Courcier, 6; 3) MOORE 24 — 1) Ruby, Steve McCarthy, 4 boats) Alpha Puppy, 1D35 Alex Farell, 9. (5 boats) points; 2) Wetspot, John Verdoia, 8; 3) Topper II, SPINNAKER (PHRF 120+) — 1) Volador, PHRF 60-96 — 1) Tupelo Honey, Elan 40, Conrad Holbrook, 8. (14 boats) Ranger 33, Michael Finn; 2) Sea Spirit, Catalina Gerry Sheridan, 4 points; 2) Mintaka 4, Farr 38 M, Complete results at: www.sfyc.org

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TP 52s Heat Up Southern California with senior Sebas- — Mark Jones and charterer Mick Sh- tien Laleau, sopho- lens sailed Jones' Bay Area-based TP more Nevin Garcia, 52 Flash at the Newport Harbor YC's and freshman Matt Ahmanson Cup April 17-18. It wasn't Van Rensselaer to particularly breezy, as expected, so the fi nish comfortably heavier Flash with its larger, IRC-opti- in fourth. Stanford mized keel had trouble hanging with the was fourth overall, other boats and fi nished at the back of and the Stanford the fi ve-boat fl eet. Jim Madden's Stark women were sev-

Raving Mad V won the event. While the enth, while Cal ﬁ n- WWW.ULTIMATE-YACHTSHOTS.SMUGMUG.COM "SoCal 52s" sail under IRC, word has it ished in 15th. that none of boats will be coming up for One Age Bracket the Rolex Big Boat Series in September. Down — St. Francis We wonder if their handlers think they YC hosted the High

can't be competitive on the Bay. If so, School PCCs April SERGEI ZAVARIN/ it points out an inherent problem in a 17-18 to determine who gets to go to the Mallory Trophy for 'Twist' crewmember Matt Borasi spent a brief period single-number rating system — if your of time on the wrong side of the lifelines at J/Fest. horse is optimized to your home course, fl eet racing at the High School Nation- and your home course is different from als. Five nationals berths were up for around an exclusion zone off the East everyone else's, then you don't stand grabs in the 21-boat fl eet, with Marin's Coast of the African continent up to Abu much chance. The 52s will be at Long Branson School fi nishing comfortably Dhabi, UAE. The fl eet will then head east Beach Race Week at the end of June, in the money. They were in third after to Sanya, China, before making a wel- and it'll be interesting to see — provided losing a tiebreaker with Point Loma HS. come return to Auckland, New Zealand, the typical 12-18 knot seabreeze shows Branson's Antoine Screve and Natalie which was left out of the race last time. up — if the fi nishing order changes. Urban were second in A division, four From there, it's a whopper of a leg to Cal Maritime Dominates — The Cal points out of fi rst, while James Moody Itajai, Brazil. Next up will be Miami, fol- Maritime Keelhaulers dominated the St. and Kate Gaumond came out ahead on lowed by Lisbon. From there they'll sail Francis Intersectional with a 14-point a tiebreaker for fourth place in B divi- out around the Azores to Lorient before victory against some of the best from the sion. Coronado HS was fi rst, while New- fi nishing in Galway, Ireland. There will PCCSC and elsewhere, on the Cityfront port Harbor HS and Cathedral Catholic be no scoring gates in this 39,270-mile April 3-4. The win was in no small part rounded out the top fi ve. long race around the globe. thanks to a dominant 28-point perfor- Volvo Route Announced — The route, Along with Franck Cammas' Groupa- mance in A Division by senior skipper format and dates have all been an- ma team, and Giovanni Soldini's Italia 70 Sean Kelly, who sailed with senior crew nounced for the '11-12 Volvo Ocean team, Ken Read will be back to try to bet- Andrew Freeman and sophomore crew Race. The event will start with in-port ter his second place fi nish in the '08-09 Jessica Schember. The trio fi nished racing — a feature of every stop — in race, once again sponsored by Puma and some 18 points clear of the UCSB Gau- the port of Alicante, Spain, on October now with Berg Propulsion on board. Abu chos runner-up A Division crews. In B 29, 2011, before the fl eet departs for Dhabi will be fi elding a team, and Team Division, senior Charles Davis teamed up Cape Town. From Cape Town, they head New Zealand will be fl ying the Camper

J/FEST REGATTA (4/11) 24, Lon Woodrum, 2 points; 2) US101, Moore 24, J/105 — 1) Yikes!, Peter Stoneberg; 2) Al- J/105 — 1) Arbitrage, Bruce Stone, 11 points; Rudy Salazar, 4; 3) Uhoo, Ultimate 20, Michael chemy, Walter Sanford; 3) Donkey Jack, Shannon 2) Blackhawk, Scooter Simmons, 15; 3) Racer X, Josselyn, 6. (3 boats) Bonds. (3 boats) Phillip Laby/Rich Pipkin, 17. (22 boats) DIVISION 2 (PHRF>150) — 1) Red Hawk, Complete results at: www.cyc.org J/120 — 1) Mr. Magoo, Steve Madeira, 6 points; Hawkfarm, Gerry Gunn, 2 points; 2) Siento el 2) Chance, Barry Lewis, 8; 3) Dayenu, Donald Viento, C&C 29, Ian Matthew, 4; 3) Wind Dance, ST. FRANCIS YC CABRINHA RACE SERIES (4/15, Payan, 14. (8 boats) Cal 2-27, Ann Watson, 7; 3) Shenandoah, Catalina 3r/0t) J/24 — 1) TMC Racing, Michael Whitﬁ eld, 5 27, Jerry Brooks, 7. (4 boats) OVERALL — 1) Chip Wasson; 2) Geoff Head- points; 2) Downtown Uproar, Darren Cumming, Complete results at: www.tyc.org ington; 3) Stefaans Viljoen. (18 kites) 10; 3) On Belay, Don Taylor, 11. (7 boats) MASTER — 1) Chip Wasson; 2) Marcello Se- J HANDICAP — 1) Cheeseburger, Peter Lane, CORINTHIAN YC FRIDAY NIGHT SPRING SERIES gura; 3) Eric Geleynse. (8 kites) 5 points; 2) Ragtime, Trig Liljestrand, 5; 3) Trinity, (4/9) GRAND MASTER — 1) Frank Whitke. (1 kite) Cam Lewis, 16. (6 boats) NON-SPINNAKER 1 — 1) Min Flicka, Hanse Complete results at: www.stfyc.org 370, Julle LeVicki; 2) Fast Friends, Santana 35, ST. FRANCIS YC FRIDAY NIGHT WINDSURFING William Smith; 3) Perseverance, Beneteau First SERIES (4/16, 2r, 0t) BALLENA BAY YC FRIDAY NITE GRILLERS SE- 47.7, Daniel Chador. (6 boats) OVERALL — 1) Steve Bodner; 2) Eric Chris- RIES (4/16) NON-SPINNAKER 3 — 1) Aquila, Santana 22; tianson; 3) Soheil Zahedi. (13 boards) 1) Tortfeasor, Olson 34, Jeff Rude; 2) Legend- 2) Fjording, Cal 20, Tina Lundh. (2 boats) Complete results at: www.stfyc.org ary, Jeanneau 41, Dave Edwards; 3) Ke Kemu, SPINNAKER 2 — 1) Good & Plenty, Soverel Colgate 26, Dave Hayward. (7 boats) 33, Justis Fennell; 2) Yucca, 8-Meter, Hank Ea- SVENDSEN'S THURSDAY NIGHTS (4/15 5r, 0t) Complete results at: www.bbyc.org som; 3) Youngster, IOD, Ron Young. (4 boats) OVERALL — 1) Matthew Sessions/Avery SPINNAKER 3 — 1) Wuda Shuda, Soverel Patton; 2) Steve Kleha/na; 3) Adam Spiegel/Amy TYC DON WAN REGATTA (4/10) 26OB, Craig Page; 2) Vague Unrest, Rhodes 19, Guarneri. (11 boats) DIVISION 1 (PHRF≤150) — 1) Frenzy, Moore Phil Simon. (2 boats) Complete results at: www.vanguard15.org

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 131 THE RACING

banner under skipper Chris Nicholson. More details and info are at www.volvo- son's engaging, humorous talk painted a oceanrace.com. vivid picture of what it was like to pre- Mea Culpa — In our recap of the Is- pare for the Vendée Globe. lands Race in last month's issue, we What was perhaps most interesting made the mother of all errors when we after hearing about the trials and tribu- gave Bay Area sailor and Wasabi crew- lations of a trip that saw him ﬁ nish ninth member Garett Greenhalgh a com- out of the 11 boats that ﬁ nished the 30- pletely new surname. Sorry Garett, and boat race, was the fact that he said he'd thanks, we have enough of your busi- do it again! There were contingencies ness cards. . . though, namely that the effort would be Leukemia Cup — The Leukemia Cup's worthwhile only if it could support aths- Robin Reynolds gave us a heads-up that ma awareness — he's a severe athsmatic the winningest America's Cup skipper of who has to take multiple medications all time, Russell Coutts, will be the fea- daily just to survive and twice ran the tured speaker at this year's event at San Boston marathon in spite of it — as well

Francisco YC October 2-3. LATITUDE/ROB as encourage seniors to lead active lives Off the Water — Vendée Globe veteran and further his educational programs. Rich Wilson visited the Corinthian YC To that end, he said it would take the on April 8. The 59-year-old resident of Rich Wilson ably told his Vendée Globe tale. support of a pharmaceutical company Marblehead put on a well-paced multi- and/or an organization like the AARP. media presentation that visibly moved ting topics like his educational program He pointed out that a campaign like the not only himself — he became choked sitesALIVE!, a rib-breaking, cross-cabin one he envisions — spanning three years up when relating tales of the support fall on Day 2 of his 121-day tour around and with a newer boat than his '08-'09 he received from the rest of the ﬂ eet the world, and the support of both the ride Great American III, but not a brand and the French public — but also the French public and his fellow sailors, Wil- new boat — on a shoestring, would cost enrapt 70-person audience, which hon- about what a utility inﬁ elder gets in an- ored him with a standing ovation. Hit- nual pay. If you get the chance to see

Tahoe Yacht Club est. 1925 ) ) YACHT RIGGERS COME ON UP IN 2010! Since 1978 Experience a Tahoe racing tradition… 3JHHJOHr$POTVMUBUJPOr&EVDBUJPOr5PPMT Point Hudson Harbor, Port Townsend it's worth the trip! XXX#SJPO5PTTDPN the 47th annual Trans Tahoe Regatta July 9-11 We are celebrating Friday – Practice & Party our 85th year! Saturday – Trans Tahoe Race Sunday – Lakeside BBQ Rigging has its rewards! Here I am with my dear friend Albert. He loves all kinds of boats, has owned quite a few, and we’ve worked on the rigs of all of them. The list includes a sweet little Albin Vega, a gaff-rigged Pinky schooner, a classic double-ended cutter, a fairly tweaky, 42’ French-built multi-spreader aluminum ocean cruiser, and – maybe ﬁnally – his current boat, a new 34’ fractional rig racer/cruiser. I mention Albert because (if you add large square-riggers) his boats just about describe the arc of our expertise. So no matter what kind of boat you have, give us a call when you are in need of (530) 581-4700 • www.tahoeyc.com some proper rigging. Any kind of rigging. [email protected] Fair leads, Brion Toss

Page 132 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 SHEET

Wilson in action, make sure you take it scenic 10-mile — it's a worthwhile 90 minutes. Central Bay Westpoint Marina Regatta Redux — course that's West Point Harbor and Sequoia Yacht open to all Bay Club are hosting the second annual Area boats, and Westpoint Marina Regatta on June 12. to our minds is Like last year, the predominantly probably one downwind race will start off the north- of the freshest east corner of Treasure Island, round racing/perfor- Alcatraz to port, and then ﬁ nish at the mance sailing Redwood Creek entry buoys for a total ideas to be put distance of 25 miles. into action in

The South Bay has a number of very awhile. Race YC JOHN DUKAT/RICHMOND shallow shoals, so check your updated Chairman Ross charts and make sure your depthsound- Stein elabo- er works well. There will be free berthing rates: at the new Westpoint Marina, whereonce "You can do it any time you want, as This is what you do when you're waiting for the you're tied up, you'll fi nd free transpor- many times as you want," he said. "Just breeze to fi ll in and you've got to pass some time — waterboarding! All you need is a laser daggerboard tation to Sequoia Yacht Club for a tri-tip turn on your GPS receiver, choose any and a suffi ciently powered-up chase boat. steak dinner at $20 a head. The club will buoy but Alcatraz to start and fi nish, provide breakfast the following morning and take a lap — or several. Upload your open through Oct 30, and only your best also. To enter the race, please fi ll out the GPX fi le to BAMA, and you will be scored. lap will count for the season barn door skipper's entry form on the Sequoia YC’s You can replay your race against others and corrected honors. website at www.sequoiayc.org. or yourself, if you do it more than once "If you started at the leeward pin, It's Settled — The Bay Area Multi- in GPS Active Replay. The Racetrack is in typical southwesterlies, the course hull Association has fi nalized the BAMA would be a beat, a close reach, a beat, a Racetrack. It's been pared down to a run, and a beam reach from R4 to port,

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 133 THE RACING

Alcatraz to starboard, Big Harding to port, Blackaller to port, Blossom Rock structions/race chart, visit: www.sf- to port, and back to R4. We are looking bama.org/racetrack. forward to the fast cats — Shadow, Tuki, South of the Border — Dick Compton, Adrenaline, and Beowulf — establishing, Jim Yabsley and Tom Parker's Santa and then eating away at the course re- Barbara-based R/P 68 Taxi Dancer won cord. overall honors and $6,500 Lamborghini "The goal of the Racetrack is two- watch (we hope it's not always fast) in fold," he added. "First, we want to en- the Newport Ocean Sailing Association's courage people who haven't raced, or do 125-mile Newport to Ensenada Race so rarely, to give racing a try. There is no WWW.H2OSHOTS.COM April 23. start-line crush of boats to worry about The bright-yellow sled was the sec- and you don't need to be a rules maven, ond monohull to fi nish in the 226-boat so you can focus on boat handling, sail fl eet, correcting out over Lorenzo Berho's trim and mark roundings. If you blow Kernan 68 Peligroso by 70 minutes. Tim a tack or a spinnaker drop, just sail to ERIK SIMONSON/ Murison's Pt. Richmond-based Island the closest mark and 'restart;' there are Clipper 44 Bolero won PHRF-F and was no consequences. And everyone enjoys overall runner-up with a local crew that sailing past the islands, grazing the Gate included Kim Desenberg, Jerry Keefe The Cal Maritime Keelhaulers won the St. Francis and along the City Front. If you want a Intersectional going away last month. and Kers Clausen. Full results are avail- mellow ride, do it in the morning or mid- able at www.nosa.org. day. After building some confi dence, try winds and currents that maximize the Aloha — The two even-year Hawaii an afternoon lap in more breeze. Second, speed for your vessel, and that will take Races are shaping up well. The Single- we want to give experienced racers an some thought and planning." handed TransPac has a solid fl eet of 21 exciting course to hone their skills and There will be no entry fee in '10. To entries for the 2,150-mile run to Hana- train crew. There will be singlehanded, download the notice of race/sailing in- lei Bay, Kauai. The Pacifi c Cup has 70 doublehanded, and crewed 'divisions.' entries — in a down, if not depressed, The real challenge will be to choose the economy — which is pretty amazing.

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Page 134 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 SHEET

Although the fi nal entry deadlines hap- Latino bring the pened after we went to press, we're pretty match for the 34th sure the fi nal number should be close to Cup to the Bay. If, that. We'll have previews on both races like us, you're in in upcoming editions of Latitude 38; in that camp, you'll the meantime, you can look up the races be heartened to at www.sfbaysss.org, and www.pacifi c- hear that Burns cup.org, respectively. is now a Dogpatch Out of Mothballs — Speedboat, Alex resident, while Jackson's Juan K-designed 100-footer Webb and wife Kar- has been brought back on-line and will en — a Bay Area be sailing the Bermuda Race and mak- native and execu- ing a Trans-Atlantic record attempt this tive producer for summer, navigated by the Bay Area's the team's victory Stan Honey. tour presentations Making the Rounds

— Drawing a — are San Jose ARNDT LATITUDE/JOHN standing-room-only crowd, a 1.5-hour- residents. Another long presentation by our hometown plus was that this America's Cup team touched on some is the only boat interesting topics at a special showing of show the team will do. Yet another was Bowman Brad Webb has the fl oor while John Kos- tecki and Ian Burns look on. For those who want to the Cup at Strictly Sail Pacifi c on April that Ehman reiterated that the Bay is see the Cup come to the Bay, their appearance at 15. Emceed by Tom Ehman and featur- team owner Larry Ellison's fi rst choice. SSP produced some very encouraging tidbits. ing design coordinator Ian Burns, tac- We hope all of these are signs that the tician John Kostecki and bowman Brad event will be coming here. As for a time- man said that the team hopes to have Webb — the rap session had some inter- frame on when that'll be decided, Eh- everything — venue, boat, format and esting tidbits for those who'd like to see date — fi gured out before the end of the BMW Oracle Racing and Mascalzone year.

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 135 WORLD

With reports this month on Summer Charter Options and Strategies for Making Them Affordable, a former Californian's explanation of why he loves Exploring Panama Under Sail, and thoughts on the 'Schmutzwasser' Conundrum.

Is A Summer Sailing Vacation back in a boom cycle again. In the Cards For You? Whether we're talking about sailing Although it feels as though we're just grounds in the Med, the South Paciﬁ c, beginning to dry out from that exception- the Caribbean or North America, hotels, ally wet winter, we're happy to remind restaurants, shops and yes, anchorages, you that summertime is just around the won't be nearly as busy now as they corner. And that means it's time to get were a few years ago, or will be a year or serious about making summer travel two from now. And with fewer potential plans — which we hope will include a customers around, we'd bet you'll ﬁ nd sailing vacation. that shopkeepers, restaurateurs, and We'd bet that nearly everyone reading service staff will give you better and more this would love to do a charter cruise cheerful service everywhere you go. this summer, but we suspect that many If you've tried to book a boat in the

of you are holding off on making a com- past with only a few months lead time ASSOC / JEFF GREENBERG MAINE WINDJAMMER mitment due to the uncertain state of before your travel date, you probably the economy. So let's discuss money found a limited selection of boats. But matters a bit, and strategies for making these days, you're likely to have a wider that dream trip happen. range of boats to choose from, even on Even though most fi nancial pundits relatively short notice. tell us that the !@#$%^& recession is You say you just don't have the cash fi nally ending, most consumers are just this year? Well before you completely beginning to loosen the white-knuckled give up on the idea, allow us to share a grip they have on their hard-earned little creative thinking. If you've splurged greenbacks. Rather than following that in the past and rented a boat on your 'herd-like' thinking, consider this: With own — say, just you and your spouse, fewer people allowing themselves to lover or kids — you may not realize how spend money on vacations these days, affordable chartering can be when you prime travel destinations everywhere — split the cost of a four-cabin bareboat including prime sailing venues — will be between four couples. If money is tight, much less crowded this summer than in remember also that monohulls are gen- the subject of frugal chartering, we future years, when we'll (hopefully) be erally much cheaper than multihulls, should mention our good buddy's 'cof- Down in the sunny Caribbean, the trade winds yet the accommodations are almost as fi n bag' approach to provisioning. Back are blowing, the beers are cold and the tur- nice. Many longtime sailors would agree when our kids were young and we were quoise water's delightful. that the thrill of sailing is actually much even more broke than we are today, we greater aboard a and some similarly budget-conscious monohull — you parents were dying to get away to the know, responsive- warm Caribbean sun. So we took a deep ness of the wheel, breath and rented a big boat. Because the adrenal thrill our budget was very tight, we made trips of burying the to Costco and Trader Joe's a few days be- rail, and the abil- fore fl ying out and loaded the 'coffi n bag' ity to charge up- to the max — it got that name because wind on a tight this huge nylon duffl e bag was literally beat. as big as a coffi n. Inside it we stuffed If you and your all sorts of non-perishable staples, plus boatmates agree the kids' favorite snacks and cereals. to cook most Although we ended up with some broken meals aboard, crackers and squashed cookies, that un- you're total out- wieldy cargo conveyance served us well, lay will obviously and probably saved us a couple hundred be substantially dollars in on-site provisions. less — and hey, Besides luxury crewed chartering and you spend money bareboating, there are other means of to eat at home chartering you may not have considered anyway, right? before that can be quite affordable. For

LATITUDE / ANDY / LATITUDE While we're on example, in popular sailing destinations OF CHARTERING

pitch in with the sailing chores, such as hauling lines, trimming sails and taking a turn at the helm. And every cruise includes a traditional New England lobster bake which, in itself, is worth making the trek across the country. To our way of thinking the best of these cruises are timed with one of a wide variety of schooner races and festivals that take place throughout the summer, where dozens of schooners rendezvous. As you can imagine, such gatherings are a snapshooter's dream. Okay, so you can economize on provisions, and you can share boat expenses or fi nd by-the-berth sailing options, but how do fi nd affordable airfares? That issue, we realize, can be a deal-breaker, especially for families on a tight budget. These days there seems to be more varia- tion with fl ight pricing than with any other commodity we can think of — on any given fl ight similar seats will have sold for wildly different amounts. Generally, booking way in advance will get you the best deal, but not always. If you're super-fl exible you can sometimes pick up a last-minute midweek fare for a song. That said, it may have a horrendous schedule with multiple stops, but it will get you there. Combine that with a last-minute boat or berth reservation and your in! Frequent fl yer miles are best used far in advance also, but here again, you can MAINE WINDJAMMER ASSOC / FRED LeBLANC MAINE WINDJAMMER sometimes get lucky late in the game on Looking for something different this summer — and traditional schooners. For example, mid-week fl ight with wacky itineraries. that won't break the bank — consider a coastal during the summer months, the Maine For this sort of bargain-hunting, though, cruise aboard a Maine windjammer. coast is a veritable celebration of sail, we strongly advise you to enlist the help like Greece, Turkey and the British as a picturesque fl eet of both replicas of a real live reservation agent, even if Virgin Islands, many charter operators and restored historic schooners ply the Tahiti is certainly not what you'd call a bargain offer scheduled 'fl otilla' charters, where protected waters of the Penobscot Bay destination. But bareboat prices and provision- a group of boats travels on more or less region. All aboard are encouraged to ing are similar to many other venues. the same route and schedule. If you like to make new friends — especially those from other nations — fl otillas can be great fun. Europeans seem to love them, so you'll probably fi nd yourself in the company of Scandinavians, Germans, Brits and/or Frenchmen. There is always a lead boat with a group leader aboard who's intimately familiar with the area. The lead boat (and sometimes others also) is generally booked by the berth. A related alternative is to book a cabin or berth aboard an instructional cruise. Most Bay Area sailing schools (or 'clubs') offer a variety of instructional fl otilla trips throughout the year, as do schools in the Caribbean, San Juan Islands, Florida and elsewhere. There are also all sorts of booked-

by-the-berth options aboard tall ships ANDY / LATITUDE WORLD

doing so costs you a small service fee. A life agent can often fi nd creative itinerar- possibilities in this tiny Central American ies that a simple computer search might country, although we knew from many miss. cruisers that there are enticing places to If you don't have a heap of frequent explore on both the Caribbean and Pacifi c fl yer miles yourself, be aware that lots of coasts of Panama. people do — especially business travel- But in March, while spending time ers. With most airlines travel awards (free with former San Diegans Frank Nitte and air tickets) can be given away without a Shirley Duffi eld, we got quite an educa- fee. So why not ask your globe-trotting tion. After years of cruising aboard their friends if you can buy an award from Islander Freeport 36 Windsong, they fell them for, say, half the value of a normal in love with Panama and now call it home. ticket to the same destination. And since Frank is one of the very few It's in the interest of bareboat market- local sailors offering overnight charters, ers to keep tabs on special offers from we invited him to tell us about the cruising airlines that service their charter desti- grounds and the charters he offers aboard nations. So check their websites often Windsong. It all sounds so enticing, we for limited-time deals. Just last month might join him on a cruise ourselves next both Air Tahiti Nui and American Airlines year.

were offering attractive discounts, but for FRANK NITTE PHOTOS ALL — Ed. ﬁ xed time periods only. Even if your budget is tight this year, The skyscrapers of downtown Panama City Very few people think of Panama as we suggest you do your travel homework stand in stark contrast to surrounding jungles a chartering destination. It’s just not diligently and think creatively so those and a wealth of nearby islands. on most people’s radar, unless they've summer charter dreams can become Chartering in Panama: visited on their own sailboat, or been reality. Because where there's a will, The Next Place? a passenger on a cruise ship through there's a way! Until we visited Panama recently, we the Canal. In fact, Panama chartering — latitude/andy hadn't heard much about the charter is pretty much in its infancy. There are

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no bareboat fl eets here, but there are or winter, is from many worthwhile attractions you can May through visit aboard a crewed yacht. Before I November. The introduce them to you, though, let me rainiest months give you a bit of background. are May, October Panama is a Spanish-speaking tropi- and November, cal paradise in Central America, located when the Inter- between Costa Rica and Colombia. The tropical Conver- country sits between latitudes 7° and 9° gence Zone (ITCZ) degrees N, which translates to hot and moves over Pan- humid weather year round. Tempera- ama. During the tures are normally in the 90’s during the wet season, there day, and in the 70’s at night. may be rain show- The Panama Canal bisects the coun- ers, but most of try from north to south (not east to west, each day is typi- as you might think). The country has 477 cally sunny. miles of Caribbean coastline and 767 It's easy to get miles on the Pacifi c. Offshore, there are to Panama from anywhere in the USA, Having thoroughly explore Panamanian waters hundreds and hundreds of islands, most since three U.S. airlines fl y there: Ameri- as a cruiser, Cap'n Frank loves sharing his of which are uninhabited. can Airlines through DFW and Miami, expertise with visiting sailors. The currency is the U.S. dollar, which Delta through Atlanta, and Continental There are four distinct cruising areas the Panamanians call the Balboa. through Newark and Houston. Mexicana in Panama that are possibilities for char- Since Panama is below the hurricane Airlines also fl ies to Panama through ter vacations: Bocas del Toro and the San belt, it is an all-year-round vacation Mexico City; and Copa Airlines, the Blas Islands on the Caribbean side, and destination. There are two distinct sea- Panamanian national airline, fl ies in the Las Perlas Islands and the islands of sons: the dry season, or summer, is from from Los Angeles, Washington Dulles, Western Panama on the Pacifi c side. December through April. The wet season, Orlando and Miami. Only 36 miles away from Panama

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 139 WORLD

City, there are more than 100 islands TV show. The sets are still there, but clustered together in the Bay of Panama. the island is totally deserted, so you can You will usually spend seven days in this spend the day playing Survivor to your island group, called the Las Perlas (The heart's content. Pearls). Some of the main isles here are Most of the islands are deserted, so Isla del Rey, Contadora, Mogo Mogo, you can while away your day getting a Chapera, and Isla San Jose. tan, collecting shells on the beaches, On the fi rst day of a typical char- kayaking, swimming, or just lazing away, ter, you will marvel at the skyline of pouring through that book you’ve been Panama City, as you sail through the wanting to read. fl eet of anchored ships waiting to cross If you can extend your visit to 14 days, the Panama Canal. Upon arrival in the other islands within the Bay of Panama, islands, you will have ample time to such as Isla Taborcillo and Taboga, can snorkel before a happy-hour toddy while be added to the Las Perlas itinerary. watching the sunset. All of the islands Called the Island of Flowers, Taboga, are within sight — reminiscent of the is only 7 miles from Panama City. The BVI, but without the crowds. small village on the island has been in Contadora Island is famous. Back in existence since the 1500’s. You can walk the 1500’s, this island was used by the the same streets where conquistador Spanish kings’ accountant. There, he Francisco Pizzaro walked before sailing 'counted' all the loot stolen from Peru. FRANK NITTE PHOTOS ALL off to conquer Peru. The French painter Afterwards, the loot was brought to Pan- Anchorages are both uncrowded and tranquil in Paul Gauguin convalesced from yellow ama City, then hauled via mules across Las Perlas, and in these tropical latitudes both fever on Taboga before heading across the isthmus to the Caribbean side, and sunrises and sunsets are often dramatic. the Pacifi c to Tahiti. You can swim in placed on galleons for Spain. Nowadays, offshore. This is the most populated of the ocean, lie on the beach, or hike up the island is populated with small ho- the Las Perlas Islands. to the top of the island to take in the tels, houses, an airstrip with fl ights to Mogo Mogo Island is also famous as panoramic view. the mainland, and has beautiful reefs the site of the Survivor – Pearl Islands Isla Taborcillo, or John Wayne Island

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Page 140 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 OF CHARTERING

— the actor once owned it — has a com- species of aquatic plete old Wild West town built on it. life. Aboard Windsong, 7- and 14-day ad- P e o p l e w h o ventures in the Bay of Panama are great have some sail- for those who have little or no sailing ing experience experience, or who would like to build who are up for on their sailing experience. Trips can the challenge, will be tailored to specifi c needs. For those love this unusual wanting to gain experience in overnight adventure. With sailing and navigation, both can be ac- the experience commodated during a charter. you'll have gained And if you want more adventure, an by the end of your alternate 14-day itinerary can take you charter, you'll feel to the less-traveled regions of Western confi dent in tak- Panama. This 200-mile one way jour- ing the next step: ney will require overnight passages and cruising such wa- interaction with large shipping from ters aboard your the Panama Canal. You will travel own yacht. around Punta Mala (Bad Point) in both Our company, directions, and visit remote islands and Sail Windsong Adventures, provides "Anyone up for lobster?" In the islands, local bays. captained charters only. If you're used fi shermen often secure their catch via hand- hewn dugout canoes. Cebaco Island and Bahia Honda are to bareboating, we like to point out that two of the many places to be visited. having a captain aboard frees you up is yours. There is spectacular snorkeling at Coiba to totally enjoy yourself without taking Our charters accommodate up to Island, Panama’s largest island, which responsibility for the vessel. You can do four passengers and are very reasonably is also a National Park. Pelagic and reef as much or as little as you want. You can priced (all food included), and depart out fi sh teem around the island, and you learn new skills, or have that romantic of the Balboa Yacht Club which is located are bound to see sharks and other large getaway you’ve talked about. The choice at the Pacifi c entrance to the Panama

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 141 WORLD OF CHARTERING

Canal, in Panama City. — frank nitte

Readers — Frank holds a USCG 100-ton Master's License, and we can verify that he's both knowledgeable and a genuinely nice guy! For more info, see: www.sailwindsong.com; email sailwind- [email protected] or call his toll-free Skype number, 1-858-348-4554, from anywhere in the USA or Canada.

So Many Sailboats, So Much Schmutz Before you read on, we warn you that ANDY / LATITUDE we're about to broach a, well, shitty sub- "Diese yacht is mit schmutzwasser tanks aus- Eastern Caribbean are all pumped into ject. gerustet." This yacht is equipped with a holding surrounding waters also. The good news, While bareboating in the Caribbean tank — so use it! however, is that the constant ﬂ ushing of recently, we found ourselves in an awk- tanks out in near-shore channels. anchorages apparently minimizes any ward conversation with some ﬁ rst-time It is a little tough to believe, but impact on the marine environment. But charterers. They were practically giddy throughout the seemingly pristine East- the whole issue is still a bit unsettling, about the stunning beauty of both the is- ern Caribbean, you could probably count so to speak. lands and their surrounding waters. But the total number of pumpout stations on For now, the best thing you can do to at the same time they were completely one hand. But don't blame the charter be an environmentally conscious boater shocked to learn that every day hun- companies. While they could, and prob- in such places is use your boat's holding dreds of Caribbean charter boats either ably will eventually add more, the fact tank — or "schmutzwasser" tank, as the pump their heads directly overboard in is that waste from city sewer systems German's would say — and pump it out the anchorages, or pump their holding and shoreside treatment plants in the as far offshore as is practical.

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Page 142 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 Ventura Harbor Boatyard, Inc. Located halfway between San Francisco and San Diego

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 143 CHANGES

With reports this month from Curare on the cruising good life in El Salva- dor; from Fleetwood on starting a cruise penniless and now having money in the bank; from Swell on nearing the end of the nearly interminable battle with a leaky shaft log; from Latitude on the attractions of San Blas, Mexico; from Sea Bear on Puerto Rico and the DR, and a generous helping of Cruise Notes.

Curare — Bowman 36 on hand and ready to welcome us into Geoff and Linda Goodall El Salvador. After the formalities were Barillas Marina, El Salvador over, Heriberto offered us a free drink (Vancouver, B.C.) at the palapa restaurant bar. After three While marvelling at the efforts of Ma- enjoyable years in Mexico, we’ve been rina Manager Heriberto Pineda and the surprised to discover that the cruising staff at Barillas Marina in El Salvador to life can get even better! get us a rental car at the lowest price, We think the costs at Barillas are we noticed a stack of reasonable. We paid $45 for our fi rst crisp new Latitudes night on a mooring ball, but that in- on the offi ce desk. So cluded the pilot's coming eight miles while they dialed, we down the estuary to guide us in, bring- leafed through the ing the offi cials from Customs, the Port February and March Captain’s offi ce, and Immigration out to

COURTESY CURARE COURTESY Latitudes. Reading our boat, and help checking in. It also the articles by other includes the guide boat's helping us out cruisers prompted across the bar when we leave. The next us to write about the 13 days are charged at $16.95 a night, exceptional reception after which the rate drops to $11.30 per and services we’ve day. Included in that fee is full use of enjoyed here at Ba- the facilities — meaning the three pools, Geoff and the cou- rillas Marina. We’ve palapas, quite good wi-fi , even out the ple's dog Jessie at been treated royally mooring fi eld when you use an antenna; the entrance to Ba- from the moment we the dinghy dock; and the freedom to walk rillas Marina. received their reply around the secure compound, which is to our email. After a great fi ve-day cross- an old cocoa plantation. ing of the Gulf of Tehuantepec — half of The menu at the marina restaurant it under spinnaker — we hailed the ma- is somewhat limited and probably 20% rina on VHF, and they arranged for the more expensive than at a restaurant in pilot to guide us across the bar. He met town, but the food is good. Papusas are us at the designated spot at exactly the three for $3. and that’s all you need. A stop in El Salvador? It was basically the designated time. With a two-metre swell hamburger is $5, and beers are $2 each. result of a coin toss. But thanks to the running, we were glad to follow the pilot A few cruisers on bigger budgets said the fi rst class staff and facilities at Barillas, in even though we had accurate way- steaks are delicious. We would typically we’ve been very happy with our deci- points. Seeing whitewater churning on get our boat chores done by midday, then sion. We are fairly low budget cruisers, all sides of us was a little disconcerting, head to the palapa by the pool for the and our full keel, sloop-rigged Bowman but we crossed the bar into the shelter remainder of the day to enjoy lunch, do 36 is very comfortable, although a little of Jiquilisco Bay without incident. research on the internet, and lounge in slow in light wind. We’re are currently When we arrived at the mooring fi eld a hammock. A tough life! in Nicaragua, and we’re putting together 12 miles up the estuary, Heriberto had Twice a week there is a shuttle van information on the mooring options here the Customs and Immigration offi cials that takes crews into the local town of for publication in the next Latitude. After a fi ve-day crossing of the Gulf of Tehu- Usulatan, 45 minutes away. There is — geoff and linda 03/16/10 antepec, Linda naturally enjoyed the luxury of excellent provisioning there from either a freshwater swim at Barillas Marina. the local market or at two American-style Fleetwood — Naja 30 supermarkets. The marina also Jack van Ommen has an airstrip if you need to fl y You Don’t Know Jack! out. Our car rental came to $337 (Gig Harbor, Wash. / The World) for 5 days, plus a $50 delivery fee We’ve all heard the joke about how — standard Budget Rental Car you make a small fortune. You start with pricing. We shared the car with the a big fortune, then you buy a boat. But

COURTESY CURARE COURTESY crew of another boat, which was a Jack van Ommen has enjoyed an entirely lot of fun and halved the cost. We different experience. When he took off had a great trip inland, and got a cruising in March ‘05 aboard Fleetwood, much better appreciation for the he’d spent his last pennies on food for country and the turmoil its citi- his long passage across the Paciﬁ c to the zens have been through recently. Marquesas. Although he’s been cruising Why did we choose Barillas over Bahia del Sol, the other popular IN LATITUDES

I became so exhausted that I called the Coast Guard in Monterey. They came out with a 47-footer to tow me in. The waves were so big LATITUDE/RICHARD that they had a dif- ficult time finding me, and it was so rough that 11 of their 13 crew got LATITUDE/LAUREN seasick. 38: Were those first days of your cruise the worst conditions you’ve seen in your 35,000 miles? Jack: I’d seen bigger seas in ‘82 when sailing home from the Single- A Vietnamese woman handed TransPac. about to start a long As tall as they were, day in the paddies. those were gentle rollers from a distant hurricane. The ones off the Central California coast weren’t as big, but they were much worse. It had me wondering if I should be making such a trip at all. 38: How many times have you seen more than 40 knots at sea? Jack: Hardly ever. The worst was just outside of Cape Town, South Africa, when I misunderstood the weather guy. He told me to hide somewhere along the coast, but I thought he told me to continue on. It blew about 40 knots for 36 hours, and was really bad. I was scared. I set the windvane to heave the boat Jack van Ommen, in front of the Sausalito Post Offi ce, on his way from Vietnam back to his boat to, closed the boat up the best I could, in Amsterdam. Since all of Jack's trip photos were on his crashed hard drive, we've illustrated this and went below. The worst part was the interview with other photos from Vietnam, a country for which he feels tremendous affection. noise, with all the wind and vibration in ever since, and hasn’t worked, he now 38: You’re looking lean and relaxed. the rigging. has money in the bank and is able to Do you mind if we ask your age? 38: Let’s put it this way: how many afford things like fl ying from Amsterdam Jack: I’m 73. But you know what they times have you been really scared in to Vietnam — fi rst class for several of say, you get a year younger for every year 35,000 miles? the segments — for a three-month vaca- you spend at sea. When I asked for the Jack: Only three or four times. But tion from cruising. How has he done it? senior discount on the ferry, they didn’t I’ve had a few unpleasant passages. My Read on. (Although you’ll have to wait for card me, but they thought I was under Pho, pho, pho! A typical restaurant on a side- Part II in the June issue to get the full 65. (Laughter.) walk — and into the street — in Hanoi. The food story.) 38: Give us a rough idea of where you is healthful, inexpensive and delicious. Having published a number of van have cruised so far. Ommen’s Changes since ‘05, we were Jack: I’ve done 35,000 eager to meet the vet of the ‘82 Single- miles and visited 30 coun- handed TransPac and a half decade of tries — but I should probably cruising a small boat most of the way begin with my inauspicious around the world. So when he was pass-

start. After trailering my boat LATITUDE/LAUREN ing through on his way from Vietnam to from Gig Harbor to Alameda Amsterdam, we were thrilled that he took in March of ‘05, I set sail for the ferry from San Francisco to meet us Santa Barbara, but got hit by for lunch in Sausalito. Slim, calm and a really big southerly halfway soft-spoken, van Ommen appeared to down the Central California be the picture of health and vitality. coast. I was driven back to What follows is the ﬁ rst of our two-part Big Sur by big, angry waves interview with him. on the nose. My Navik windvane broke, then I had power problems. After many hours, CHANGES

sail from Virginia to Bermuda last summer was pretty bad, as was the passage I -or 34-footer. Maybe even a 36-footer. did against the trades a year ago January I’d also prefer a ketch rig, because when from Florida to the Virgin Islands. I can I’m in the middle of the ocean I always also remember getting hit by 25 to 30 wonder what I’d do if I got dismasted. knots on the nose on my way to Bali. The With a ketch rig, I’d be able to jury rig problem then was that I couldn’t stop my something. And with a ketch rig, you boat from falling can always just drop the main to quickly off waves, which reduce sail when the wind comes up. resulted in the 38: We sure got you off course, so to hull's continually speak. Take us back to your start from slamming. But California. the majority of the Jack: I decided I needed a more ro- time it’s wonder- bust windvane, so Hans of Scanmar in ful out there. Richmond, a really nice guy, set me up T h e r e a r e with a Monitor. It’s been great. Once I got many different that mounted, I set out again and didn’t kinds of cruisers, have any more problems with steering. of course. Sailing I eventually made it down to Santa Bar- between islands bara, spent my last few dollars on food, and harbor-hop- then set off on the long passage to the ping are both fun, Marquesas. Of all the all the places I’ve At age 73, Jack fi gures but I really prefer been, the Marquesas remains my favor- he still has lots of sail- the long passages. ite. I used to think it might have been ing to do. After a couple of because it was my fi rst real landfall, but days, you and your body get into a rou- now I know I just love it for the beauty tine, and you just do your thing. When and wonderful people. They are so kind I’m sailing offshore, I hardly ever have and joyful, there is no poverty, and there time to read because there is much to are no giant houses hanging off the cliffs. do. Even though the vane is doing the There is great sailing in the Marquesas, steering, I’m still busy listening to the too. I’d love to return sometime. SSB, writing emails on my laptop, navi- From the Marquesas, I continued gating, fi xing little things, and so forth. across the Pacifi c, making all kinds of In addition to my 28-day passage to the stops. I then broke away from the ‘Milk Marquesas, I had 20-day passages from Run’ and headed to Vietnam, where I’d South Africa to St. Helena and St. Hel- been stationed in the early ‘60s. I love ena to Brazil. Last year’s crossing from Vietnam, and while I know there are Bermuda to the Azores took 18 days. problems with the bureaucracy and cor- 38: Sailing upwind in anything much ruption, I believe it might open up as a circumnavigation. over 15 knots and three-foot seas isn’t great cruising ground in as little as fi ve Jack: Well, I want to sail around Eu- that pleasant for more than an after- years. Friends of friends know a man rope, Besides, I’m never going back to noon. What percentage of the time have who is about to start a marina near the the Pacifi c Northwest because it rains too you been able to sail with the wind aft mouth of the Mekong River, so I really much. What’s more, I don’t like the idea of the beam? believe there is reason for optimism. of the Panama Canal, as I heard it would Jack: At least 80% of the time. Anyway, I sailed around Southeast cost me about $1,700 to do a transit. 38: Has your 30-ft boat been big Asia, then across the Indian Ocean, up 38: No, no, it would be way less than enough for sailing around the world? to Brazil and French and Dutch Gui- $1,700. Jack: It would be nicer if I had a 33 ana, then to Trinidad. From Trinidad I Jack: Maybe you’re right, as I’ve Who can explain the mysteries of the East? A sailed straight to the Chesapeake Bay. I heard confl icting reports. Vietnamese woman burns copies of U.S. $100 thought I was going to sail to the Carib- 38: Correct us if we’re wrong, but bills for her ancestors — a common practice. bean in the winter of ‘07-’08, then across didn’t you once tell us that you only use the Atlantic to Europe about 15 gallons of fuel per year? that summer. But I fell Jack: I probably use a little more behind schedule, so I came than that, but not too much more. My back to the Chesapeake in boat only has a 20-gallon fuel tank, and the summer of ‘08, sailed I hardly ever fi ll it. Normally, I just top back to the Caribbean in it off with fi ve gallons from a jerry jug. LATITUDE/RICHARD the winter of ‘08-’09, and But I’m frugal with fuel. For example, last summer sailed from lots of cruisers motor across the dol- North Carolina to Northern drums. Not me. I can’t afford to spend Europe via Bermuda, the that kind of money on fuel. Besides, I’ve Azores and France. never had much trouble sailing across 38: When you were the doldrums. The only time I’ve used a in Trinidad, you weren’t that far from completing a IN LATITUDES

stopped at the fuel dock for a little fuel, and had a very mild run-in with a guy on a big ketch who wanted fuel ﬁ rst. He fueled up and left, and once he got his big gennaker up in the windy conditions, really left me

behind. I ﬁ gured I’d LATITUDE/LAUREN never see him again. But it turned out that I tied up at the Customs Dock in SPREAD; ARJAN BOK. INSET; LATITUDE/RICHARD ARJAN BOK. INSET; SPREAD; the Azores almost 12 hours ahead of him. He was impressed. We talked, and I was surprised to hear that he’d had a couple of days of no wind, and because their engine The 19th century was down, they’d Chinese pagoda in only made about 30 Saigon, one of the miles each of those coolest sights. days. It turns out that the guy in Florida he paid for weather routing hadn’t given him as good advice as I’d gotten for free from Herb. Before I went across, I told Herb I was planning on crossing at 32°N or even a little higher based on Jimmy Cornell’s book. Herb told me I’d been reading the wrong stuff, and kept me at about 31°N. He did a great job for me. [To be continued next month.] — latitude/rs 04/10/10

Swell — Cal 40 Liz Clark Kiss me! Spread; In Letters, you read about swimming with whale sharks outside of La Paz. Arjan The Shaft Tube, My White Whale Bok of the San Francisco-based Lidgard 43 'RotKat' (inset) , and other members of last month's Sea (Santa Barbara) of Cortez Sailing Week also went swimming with 300-lb sea lions at Los Islotes, north of La Paz. So there I was, near the end of Feb- lot of fuel was motoring along the East inﬂ atable as a replacement when I was ruary, having labored for months in the Coast’s Intracoastal Waterway. in Virginia, but I don’t even know what boatyard and having spent tons of money 38: What kind of an engine does kind it is. getting Swell ready for more adventures. Fleetwood have? 38: Let’s talk about safety and elec- But my dreams had been thwarted by a Jack: She’s got her original 16-hp tronic gear. Do you have a liferaft, EPIRB, Having been stuck in the boatyard for so long Renault diesel. It’s one of the few left, so SSB and satphone? with so many frustrations, Liz might have lost parts are hard to come by. One day I’m Jack: I have all of those except for it were it not for the surﬁ ng outlet. going to have to replace her. But I never a satphone. I use my SSB power unless I have to. The engine is and Sailmail to talk to so noisy that I can’t hear the radio, and people, send emails and get it’s stinky and it costs money. So I don’t weather. motor unless I’m sailing less than about 38: Are you in contact 2.5 knots. Besides, I’m in no hurry, and with someone every day LATITUDE/RICHARD I really enjoy being out on the ocean. when you make a long pas- 38: What do you have for a dinghy? sage? Jack: I started out with a Metzler, Jack: Oh yes. It’s very which had an unusual design that fea- seldom that there isn’t tured air tubes on the bottom. It rowed somebody I talk to like really well, which was good, because I Herb Hilgenberg of South- didn’t have an outboard, and because I bound in Toronto, who always anchor out. But after two years provides weather for the the Metzler was toast. I bought a used Atlantic and Caribbean. He’s fantastic. When I left Bermuda for the Azores, I CHANGES

leaking prop shaft tube that had to be removed from the boat. Fellow Cal 40 “What are you making?” Cesar and owner Fin Bevin of Southern California Benois asked at once, looking at the had told me that it was not uncommon diagram. for shaft tubes on Cal 40s to eventually “A slide hammer,” I replied, “Or as develop holes and leak water into the you French would say, an extract- bilge. But, he said, with the help of Doug euuuuuuuur. I’m going to use it to get Grant, another Californian, I could get my shaft log out." They nodded as if it the shaft log out using something called made sense to them. a ‘slide hammer’. In my case, it was It took a few days to gather all the explained to me, it would be a custom pieces, but soon enough Jacques had tool made of a six-foot length of stain- cut down my 18-ft pipe to six feet, and less rod threaded had welded a plate, rather than a cap, on both ends. The on what would be the outside end where rod would be in- I would hit it with the sliding 'hammer'. serted into the Benois made a washer to my dimensions, old tube, and a but out of aluminum instead of steel. I cap just smaller fi gured I had better give it a try before I COURTESY SWELL COURTESY than the outside complained. diameter of the I got the awkward device set up, bor- shaft tube would rowed a massive sledge hammer from be screwed onto the yard, and went for it. I was shocked the inside end. at how hard the head of the hammer Then, on the back slammed into the plate at the end of the end of the tube rod. But after 30 hits, I’d broken through on the outside of the weld on the plate and the tube still the boat, a heavy hadn’t budged. So I went inside my boat ‘slide’ would be to see what was happening, and found put on the stain- that the aluminum — not steel — washer less rod, followed had bent completely out of shape. by another cap I had to carry all the broken parts of put on the aft my slide hammer back across the yard end of the rod. By in order to return to the drawing board. hammering the Everyone gave me a curious look — like slide against the they’d never seen a young woman carry- aft cap, it would ing anything like across a boatyard be- — in theory — in- fore. “Extracteuuuuuuur!!!!!!!!!” I yelled directly ‘hammer’ in frustration. They just wrinkled their on the cap on the foreheads and went back to whatever ers in the yard spent Friday afternoon inboard end of the they were doing. drinking beer and toasting the weekend, shaft tube, and It took two days to get a new washer I borrowed Taputu's grinder. After all, the tube would made out of thick piece of steel and to my leaky shaft log was still stuck in the come right out. get the end plate reinforced, but I was hull, and poor little Poe, the baby tern I Since my helper ready to try the hammer again. had rescued, was so sick he couldn’t eat Laurent wouldn’t “It’s not going to work," taunted Thi- or stand up straight. What did I have to be around for erry the mechanic in French. celebrate? awhile, I decided “Extracteuuuuuuur!” I yelled back at Poe got so sick that weekend that I to make the slide him. put her in my bike basket and pedaled hammer myself. I After getting it set up, Taputu came off in search of a vet. When I found one, The 'slide hammer' began by making over to help me. I held the new steel the gentle man took Poe in his hands and turned out to be neither precise measure- washer perfectly in the middle of the said the obvious, that she was very weak pretty nor effective. ments and draw- shaft log from inside Swell, while he and skinny. I bought Poe some nutrient ing a diagram. But where was I going to slammed on the newly welded piece. supplements meant for cats. An hour fi nd six-foot stainless rod threaded on Every time he hit the welded plate, the after giving it to her, she could hardly both ends? When in doubt around here washer got sucked down into the tube — lift her head. She took her last breath at the yard in Raiatea, you ask Cesar. I because the tube hadn’t been cut at an from this world as I held her cupped in found him leaning against a shaded post, exact right angle. So my slide hammer my hands. To witness the fragility of life talking with Benois, the metal worker. failed again. — one moment there, the moment gone “Do you know where I can fi nd a six-foot That got me to thinking about the — hit me very hard. I cried and stroked steel rod or pipe threaded at both ends?” epoxy job we’d recently done on the her still-warm feathers. Cesar told me that the plumbing store shaft tube from the outside, hoping it For a week after Poe died, it was sold 18-ft lengths of 1/4-inch steel pipe would stop the leak. Surely that had strange returning to Swell. There was threaded at both ends. Great. I asked fi rmly bonded the shaft to the hull so no chirping, no more fi shy stink, and no Ben if he could make me a steel washer that no amount of pounding was going of the dimensions I needed. to break the adhesion. So while the oth-

Page 148 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 IN LATITUDES

and I'd need some more hydraulic fl uid, but at least there was new hope. Plus, Mike said he'd give me two hours of his COURTESY SWELL COURTESY time the next day. I didn’t sleep much that night, but it wasn’t because of shaft log anxieties. No, at 3 a.m. there was a pounding SWELL COURTESY on Swell’s hull. I wondered. I peered o v e r t h e s i d e and saw Taputu standing below with a fl ashlight. “Sorry to wake you,” he said in French, "but there is a tsunami coming. It’s supposed Fifty years after it was to arrive at 6 a.m. put in, the prop shaft on “Tsunami,” he re- 'Swell' was almost out. peated. “Go to Simona’s house and ride up the mountain with her." I couldn’t believe it, but it was true, a severe tsunami warning had been issued for the entire Pacifi c, For the second time in less than two months, I had to pack up my survival bag with my passport and a few precious items, secure Swell as best I could, then head down the road to Simona's house. By 8 a.m., the local radio station declared that the wave had passed through the Marquesas at less than 30 centimeters, Tsunami warning or not, an hour The shaft log on 'Swell' doesn't look like a mam- broken, sinking on land, doomed to later Mike, the successful Hollywood mal, but it's been Liz's 'white whale'. Glassing boatyard purgatory. director, began directing what I hoped over the tube failed to stop the leaking. But then Mike, whose boat Apple was would be his greatest hit — the removal more fuzzy head popping up. Instead, I hauled out in the yard, yelled down at of Swell's shaft tube. I spent two hours found only piles of progress-less projects me from his boat. “Hey Liz! We got my running around the yard in the glaring staring at me. Despite grinding off the rudder shaft out today using a hydraulic sun, looking for pieces of wood and steel recent epoxy job on the shaft log, and jack.” to wedge things in. I thought I was going making an even more precisely-fi tting “Fantastic,” I replied, struggling to to puke. By the time the clock struck steel washer, my slide hammer still sound happy for him. The boatyard cover-up, an unfortunate neces- failed to get the shaft log out. In fact, a “You don’t understand, the jack could sity when working in the yard, is not the best mighty swing by my friend Josh Humbert be the answer to your problem!” he look for Liz. broke my slide hammer for the third and shouted. “Take it over to fi nal time, slicing it in half at the upper Swell and see if it might threads, and sending it fl ying across the work by pushing instead yard! of hammering against So the shaft tube remained stuck in the shaft log.” the hull, and the behavior of Laurent, You’ve never seen a the yard glasser who was supposed to girl sprint faster with SWELL COURTESY help me, was troubling. He'd walk past a 15-lb hydraulic jack me stone-faced and cold, dead-set on ig- in hand. I hauled it up noring me. It was obviously time to seek the ladder, eager to see out other help, but who? Rain poured if it would fi t. “It does!” down and I wandered in circles around I cheered, doing a little the yard in a cloud of despair. It seemed shuffl e-step-wiggle. Sure, useless to try any more. I was defeated, I’d have to remove the v- drive and make some wood and steel supports, CHANGES

noon, we’d only just fi nished fi tting out the mishmash of metal and wood scraps Adrian called from above. to support the jack against the fi berglass “Okay!!” I hollered back, slinging bulkhead behind the v-drive. But just the beastly tool over my shoulder, and as Mike left, his two hours up, a cheery unloading on the exposed part of the 6’2” Canadian named Adrian appeared tube. on the scene. He was low on cash, but “It moved!!” He yelled. full of spirit. “It mooooooooooooooooved!” I shrieked Sleep-deprived, we back in delight. The tube had offi cially decided to go at it the been broken from the fi berglass, and next morning. At that had moved 1 mm in the right direc- time I had another tion. We carried on in a similar fashion for the better part of the day — Adrian

COURTESY SWELL COURTESY weapon. Kyber, my buddy on Natty M, loading up pressure with the jack from had run me through the top, while I occasionally hammered a quick certification from below. When the jack reached its in the use of his pyro- maximum length, we’d pull it out and maniac’s delight — a shove some other piece of steel inside, hefty, fl ame-spitting, re-assemble the support, and continue The fl ame of a bor- butane torch. The idea to push. Millimeter by sweeeeeeet mil- rowed butane torch was to repeatedly heat limeter, we pushed that tube out of the became an impor- and cool the bronze hull. That afternoon the fi nal six inches tant tool. tube from outside — of the tube slid out to expose a series of hopefully without setting Swell on fi re corroded holes, meaning it was certain — with the goal of breaking the tube's that the corroded tube had been the bonds with the surrounding fi berglass. source of all the leaking into the bilge. Adrian stood by with a bucket of water in I felt as though I fi nally had gotten my the event that I lost control of the torch. white whale! The tube turned rainbow colors under With the tube removed, it might the heat, and boiled the water that was seem as though the problem was all but soaked in the surrounding fi berglass. solved. But no. I needed to get some glass Fantastic! When we both agreed that any work done, and since Laurent wouldn’t more heating might cause Swell to semi- talk to me, and the only other fi berglass spontaneously combust, Adrian threw on guy worked at a competing boatyard next some water to induce quick contraction door, and the two yards don't like each of the metal. other, it was going to be a nightmare. It was time for the fi nal showdown. Then there was the issue of getting the Inside the cabin, a few pumps on the right tube and cutlass bearing. But that era that starts just north of the Puerto hydraulic jack put 20 tons of pressure same day I got an email from Fin: Vallarta Airport, so in late March we against that stubborn shaft tube. At fi rst “My friend, Doug Grant of Marine hopped aboard our trusty Honda 250 it didn’t budge at all. I couldn’t bear to Products Engineering Co, sells the exact dual sport bike for the 2.5-hour drive watch, for if this failed, I would have to tube you need with a cutlass bearing to up from Punta Mita. While the fi rst 45 concede to ‘open-fi berglass surgical tube go with it. I already spoke with him, and minutes to Las Verras was on dangerous removal’. Being rather nervous around he said he would sell it to you for half Highway 1, the last 1 hour and 45 min- pressurized jacks after my accident last price. Send me your address and I’ll get utes featured a spectacular ride through year, I decided it was better for me to go it in the mail by Monday — and cover the the Mexican countryside — think of a down and survey what was happening shipping.” tropical Sonoma County — then miles of on the other end. After a month of agonizing, everything sparsely-populated jungle-lined beaches. “Hit it with the sledgehammer!!” had suddenly turned around! Shiny As for the lightly travelled two-lane road, By the time Adrian got all the wedging set up, beams of hope were making the world it was better than much of what passes the sole of 'Swell' was in disarray. But it was twinkle again! Fin and Doug, neither of for pavement in California these days. worth it, as the jack did the job. whom I had ever met, were like angels If you love rides through the jungle and who had descended to carry me along tropical beaches, it might even be out of boatyard purgatory. God worth renting a car for a Sunday drive bless them both, and everyone from Puerto Vallarta or La Cruz, particu- else who has helped me. larly if there's a swell running and you LIZ CLARK — liz 4/1/10 have a couple of surf sticks. San Blas, a municipality of 37,000 San Blas, Mexico that includes the infamous prison colony History And a New Marina at Isla Marias, has four claims to fame. We hadn't had a chance to First, this being the base for Spanish na- see how the Singlar Marina val operations in the Pacifi c from as early had turned out in San Blas, as 1531, it was from Las Islitas Beach at the northernmost town along the 100-mile long Nayarit Rivi- IN LATITUDES

and Sharon Drechsler's Catalina 470 Last Resort into a big broach after being overtaken by a breaking wave at the bar

LATITUDE/RICHARD to the San Blas Estu- ary. Despite some tour- ism, San Blas remains an authentic Mexican town that has changed very slowly over the last LATITUDE/RICHARD few decades. It's not yet gone upscale nor does it have any of the glitz that can be found at some of the other towns on the Nayarit Riviera. That The steeple on will come soon enough. the old church Nonetheless, the San in the plaza. Blas Estuary, as no-see-um infested as it can be, was chosen as the site for one of the cookie-cutter Singlar Marinas. Built based on a 'if we build a marina and boatyard, the boats will come' business plan, it hasn't exactly panned out yet. When we visited the boatyard and marina, it was quiet despite its being the high season, with about a quarter of the 30 or so well-built marina slips occupied, and the beautifully built and spacious boatyard and facilities having only four boats on the hard. The swimming pool and hot tub were empty, and the big out- door bar and the meeting room facilities looked as though they hadn't been used in a long time. In other words, market forces didn't demand that this marina be built. But the basic facility seems to have Clockwise from above; Matanchen Bay, with a tiny example of the peeling waves. The empty pool at been well designed and constructed, the Singlar Marina in San Blas. One of the boats in the marina's well-built slips. The new Travelift. so who knows? If the yard and marina Three boats on the hard at Singlar. Inset; A catamaran on the hook in the San Blas Estuary. are properly run, they might eventually nearby Mantanchen Bay that Junipero age and with his heart condition, you make economic sense. Serra boarded the locally built barque might expect he'd be less garrulous, but As for the town of San Blas, the plaza, Purisima Concepcion in 1768 for the trip apparently that's not the case. about a half mile from the marina, is to California to found the string of mis- There was an air of anticipation as still the center of activity day and night. sions. As such, San Blas has some great we pulled into Mantanchan Bay, for There's always something to watch, and history and ruins. Second, the same Las it was only a couple of days until Se- that something is usually the people. The Islitas Beach is internationally famous mana Santa, when the beaches would San Blas Social Club, across the street for being home to some of the longest be invaded by countless thousands of Cruisers who visit San Blas have the choice of rideable waves in the world of surﬁ ng. families on holiday. All the basic palapa taking a slip in the Singlar Marina or anchoring Indeed, at one time the Guinness folks restaurants on the beach were being in the estuary. Both can be buggy at dusk. claimed you could ride the same wave spruced up, toilets were for a mile, although changes in the jetty being dug, and festive rib- mean that's no longer possible. Third, bons were being strung. San Blas — but particularly Mantanchen And looking out to the Bay — is internationally notorious for popular Matanchen Bay no-see-ums at dawn and dusk. Pour anchorage, we watched LATITUDE/RICHARD some pepper on your hand and you'll four northbound cruising get an idea what it will look like about boats pull in, on their way sundown. Lastly, San Blas has been from Punta Mita to Maza- famous for decades of clashes between tlan. Alas, there was no former Brooklyn resident Norm Goldie surf or surfers, but there and some cruisers who, thank you very had been great waves much, don't want his help. At Goldie's just a few days before. In fact, the waves were big enough to send Richard CHANGES

from one corner of the plaza, seems to be a gringo center of sorts, though and enjoyed sleeping under the stars in when we were there in the mid after- the cockpit. Once they were aboard, we noon, it was dominated by some noisy, sailed 20 miles east, against the trades, chain-smoking RV wackadoos from the to the beautiful Spanish Virgin Island of Southwest. For those short of cash, two Culebra. While the Dales were with us, ATMs were working in San Blas the day we enjoyed great weather. we were there. After they fl ew home, Marina and I For some reason, spent a couple of nights at the Puerto a lot of cruisers seem Del Rey Marina. It has 1,000 slips, to skip a visit to the making it the largest in the Caribbean. fort, overlooking the It’s also very well managed — primarily town, that was built by women. Perhaps we should consider LATITUDE/RICHARD in 1770 to defend the having women run more things — such town's extensive sea as our government. trade with the Phil- We then set off west, behind schedule lipines, of all places, again. The problem is that Marina and which wanted the I have so much fun seeing new places hardwoods from the and meeting so many nice people, that San Blas area. On the it's hard to keep up. Our next stop was Bikes, beaches hill behind the fort Salinas. We arrived after dark, and care- and palms line Ma- are the ruins of the fully entered through the reef at Rat Cay. tanchen Bay. Church of Our Lady Once inside, we decided to anchor and of the Rosary, built in 1769. The ruins wait for daylight before working our way once contained the bronze bells that are up the shallow channel into the main said to have inspired Henry Wadsworth anchorage. As we slowly motored into Longfellow's poem, The Bells of San shoal water, a boat appeared ahead of us Blas, At the very least, it's worth a short with no lights. Although apprehensive, visit. we carried on. It turned out to be a police About 30% of the way between Punta boat. Fortunately, one of the crew spoke Mita and Mazatlan, San Blas makes a English, and they gave their blessing to good intermediate stop. But it or Man- our anchoring where we were for the rest tanchen Bay are also worth visiting on of the night. their own — particularly if there's a surf- From Salinas, we sailed to Isla Caja ing swell out of the southwest. Check it de Muertos (Coffi n Island) off Ponce, and out. from there we sailed across the Mona — latitude 03/25/10 Passage to the Dominican Republic. The next day, so we set our largest head- crossing was unusually pleasant, with sail and motorsailed the last 30 miles Sea Bear — Whittholz 37 clear skies and moderate fair winds. One to Boca Chica. The Zar Par Marina, Peter and Marina Passano container ship passed within a quarter a modern and well-managed facility, Puerto Rico and the DR of a mile, but we were confi dent that he was completed there three years ago by (Ex-Marin / Woolwich, Maine) saw us. Our destination was Boca Chica, American entrepreneur Frank Virgintino In late January, we left Sea Bear on which we had been advised not to enter in partnership with a Dominican. Born the east coast of Puerto Rico and trav- at night. Since we weren’t going to make on Long Island and educated in the U.S., elled to San Juan to pick up Bob and it before dark, we decided to divert to Isla Virgintino came to the DR 20 years ago Jean Dale, Marina’s parents. The Dales Catalina, which was 30 miles closer and and fell in love with the country. He and are used to roughing it, so they arrived near the industrial town of La Romana. his wife have had homes in the DR and with only a couple of small backpacks, We didn't want to anchor at La Romana, New York ever since. Virgintino recently When you talk about marinas in the Caribbean, because a gang of thugs had robbed a wrote a cruising guide to the Dominican none is bigger than Puerto Rico's Puerto del German boat there a few weeks before. Republic that is available on line. It’s the Rey Marina, home to 1,000 boats. We sailed around to the lee side of only such guide I know of, and it's very Isla Catalina and, lo and useful. behold, found a beauti- Boca Chica was originally settled by ful sandy beach in front Italians, and it still has a high percentage of quite a large resort. of residents of Italian heritage. It’s also a There were a number of very popular winter holiday destination day-charter catamarans for Italians. As such, it has a wonderful SFRDERICK PRINCE there, and lots of tourists delicatessen where every conceivable and music. At 3:30 p.m., Italian delicacy and wine can be pur- everyone packed up and chased. As you might expect, there's also left, leaving the anchorage an Italian restaurant serving delicious all to us. There wasn’t even food. a light on the island that The DR supplies an inordinately night. The wind was light the IN LATITUDES

there is no ofﬁ cial presence there, so we won’t have to check in. It’s our understanding that the is- BABE RUTH land wasn’t directly affected by the terri- ble earthquake, but there is still horrible ALL PHOTO LATITUDE/RICHARD PHOTO ALL poverty. As such, Marina is preparing a token CARE package. After that, we’ll be off to never-never land. — peter 03/01/10

Readers — For Peter was delighted those who may have to get to shake the forgotten, in ‘07 Pas- hand of Pedro. sano was awarded the Cruising Club of America’s Bluewater Medal for his extensive cruising achieve- ments, thereby joining the ranks of Ber- nard Moitessier, Sir Francis Chichester and Eric Tabarly.

Cruise Notes: Gotta have your internet off Caleta Partida in the Sea of Cortez? While doing the recent Sea of Cortez Sailing Week, we had some participants tell us where they got internet access closest to the popular Caleta Partida anchorage. Allan and Rina Alexopoulos of the Redwood City-based Hunter 466 Follow You Follow Me — who had just had their boat shipped from New Zealand Sea of Cortez Sailing Week, clockwise from top: The the ridge route at Isla San Francisco. The lovely to Ensenada at a cost of $1,000/ft — anchorage at Isla San Francisco. Upwind to Caleta Partida. Downwind to La Paz. The sunset cruise reported they got Edge connectivity at on 'Profl igate'. Real sea salt. Denis and Holly of 'Tango', about to head to the South Pacifi c. 24°31'7"N - 110°24'2"W, although it high percentage of baseball players to some aluminum sloop from Bonaire. was very slow. They got their fi rst GSM the United States, and the people are They were very interesting and charm- connectivity at 24°29'8"N - 110°25'1"W, true baseball ‘nuts’, so I wanted to see a ing. James is a very knowledgeable which was all right, but still not very baseball game. Unfortunately, we arrived techie, so their boat has every conceiv- fast. They fi nally got swift and solid GSM just after the winter season had ended, able, state-of-the art marine electronic connectivity at 24°29'5"N - 110°25'3"W. However, Virgintino told me that Pedro installed. Their boat makes Sea Bear Bill Lily of the Newport Beach-based Martinez, the famous pitcher for the Red seem like something out of the Dark Lagoon 470 Moontide reports that he Sox and later the Mets, keeps a boat next Ages. had 236 kbs Edge service at 24°30.99'N to Raffl es Light. Martinez apparently While in the DR, we’ve been keeping - 110°25.111'W and much better 3.6 mbs loves to come down to the marina and our eye out for other boats that might Desperate people do desperate things. Bob sit on the fl oat in a lawn chair next to be heading for Cuba. So far we’ve come Smith, Patsy Verhoeven and Bill Lily feed their his boat. We were told that he’s generally across a couple of possibilities. One is internet addiction outside Caleta Partida. accompanied by at least two beautiful an English/Irish couple aboard lady friends. The fi rst night we stayed the Freya 39 Foxglove that Roy at the marina, Virgintino invited Marina and Tee Jennings of Tomales Bay and me, and a nice Canadian couple, once sailed around the world. aboard Raffl es Light for drinks. Sure As I write this, our plan is to enough, when we arrived, Martinez was stop at one or more of the fi ve next door enjoying the evening air with nice stops between here and the LATITUDE/RICHARD his friends. He was quite approachable, Haitian border. We’ve also been and I got the thrill of shaking the hand told Ile de Vache is a beautiful of the baseball great. and safe island off the south James and Chantel, the Canadian coast of Haiti. Although the is- couple, had just arrived on their hand- land has no electricity or cars — they get around by horseback — there are 10,000 residents. Yet CHANGES

service at 24°32.448'N - 110°24.568'W and 24°32.582'N - 119°24.970'W “When lived at Teahupo’o in French Polynesia, I was getting a good signal, Arjan Bok one of the most famous — and feared — was also getting good service on his San LATITUDE/RICHARD surf spots in the world. “A group of us Francisco-based Lidgard 43 Rotkat to are planning to travel to Kikueru Atoll the north of me,” writes Lily. “I kind for the eclipse, then stay for a couple of of fi gured out that our two boats were more days at a nearby atoll that usually creating a range that went between Isla has good surf in July.” Ballena and Isla Partida and the area by And now for some bad news. Katty- Pichilingue. I had better signals when wompus, the Port Townsend, Washing- closer to the entrance to Partida than ton-based Golden Wave 42 owned by farther out, which is consistent with a Brad Nelson and Linda Attaway, sank couple of years ago when I could get cell almost instantly in early April after phone service in my dinghy right outside she struck a reef off the North Island the entrance.” On Profl igate, we had of New Zealand. The boat was entering 3G speed at 24°31'65"N - 110°25'07"W, Doubtless Bay, across from the town and even faster speed at 24°26'00"N of Mangonui, when she hit. “The water - 110°24'00"W. While coming up from poured in so fast that they didn’t even Puerto Vallarta to La Paz, we had our When former Bay Area resident Josh Humbert have time to grab their ditch bag,” re- Telcel modem connected sometimes as isn't chasing solar eclipses, he takes photos of ports Bob Bechler of the Seattle-based far as 15 miles offshore, but it was often surfers near his home at Teahupo'o. Gulfstar 44 Sisiutl, “but they were able pretty slow. However, close to La Paz and at 8:30 a.m. at Kikueru Atoll in the Tua- to deploy their liferaft. Apparently, local in the marinas, we had sizzling connec- motus,” reports Josh Humbert. The pho- observers helped the couple ashore just tivity — much faster than what we get at tographer and pearl farmer got to know as a rescue helicopter arrived in response the Latitude offi ce in Mill Valley on our Latitude when he went to school in the to their having set off their EPIRB. My ISDN connection. Bay Area, but for the last 18 years has understanding is that the couple made “On July 11, there will be a four- it to shore with almost nothing, but the minute-plus total eclipse of the sun Kiwi locals have been doing a good job

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Page 154 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 IN LATITUDES J.BURNS of looking after them.” Our condolences Gulfstar 44 Sisiutl. to both Brad and Linda. We apologize for not Randy Repass, founder of West being able to provide Marine, and his wife, Sally-Christine hailing ports for the Rogers, have entered their Wylie 65 Con- boats. We’re tickled by vergence in the Sail Indonesia’s Darwin the fact Steve Maggart to Kupang or Darwin to Banda/Ambon will be doing the rally Rally, which starts on July 24. Randy aboard his Bounty II, and Sally-Christine's boat is just one of which was built in ‘57. 15 U.S. boats in the 88-boat ﬂ eet as of Latitude was started April 20, many of them being vets of the aboard the sistership Ha-Ha and/or the Paciﬁ c Puddle Jump. Flying Scud. The other U.S. boats are Bill Wickman’s Sail Indonesia is Wauquiez 42 Airstream, Chris Zin- an annual yacht rally gler’s Brewer 44 Amulet, David Pryde’s that leaves Darwin in Slocum 43 Baraka, Jim Wallace’s S&S July of each year and 47 Contrails, Don Myers Amerl Super is followed by a three-month program of Bali, an almost entirely Hindu island in Muslim Maramu 53 Harmonie, Roger Hayward’s linked events across Indonesia. Unique- Indonesia, is one of the stops on one of the two Catalina/Morgan 440 La Palapa, Steve ly, participants — there were about 130 Sail Indonesia routes. Maggart’s Bounty II Linda, Walter Page’s last year — sail from Darwin to either includes the cost of a Indonesian Cruis- Mason 62 Marnie, Kathy McGraw’s Kupang or Ambon, then follow a series ing Permit. Happy sailing to all! Peterson 44 Po’oino Roa, Tom Foley’s of events on one of two paths all the way Almost as much fun as watching a Taswell 49 Priscilla, Tom Alexander’s west to Nongsa, Indonesia, which is just bunch of Spring Break girls in wet t- Nordic 44 Rasa Manis, John Prentice’s across from Singapore. The entry fee is shirts! On March 11, a group of seven Peterson 43 Scarlett O’Hara, Bill Heu- a very reasonable $500 Australian, and College of Charleston students and one mann’s C&C Landfall 48 Second Wind, alum were checking out the channel at and the above-mentioned Bob Bechler’s Alice Town, Bimini, for a midnight depar- Your Boatyard in the Heart of Paradise

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 155 CHANGES

ture back to Coconut Grove, Florida, at the end of a Spring Break cruise aboard whatever they want with it. If another the sailboat Tardis. As they were getting party comes and saves the boat, techni-

GPS coordinates, theyp saw a Jean- LATITUDE/RICHARD cally, it’s their boat.” We’re hoping that neau 50, name unknown, slam into a the kids were misquoted, because if they coral reef and go badly aground on the weren’t, they — like a lot of people — windward side of the island. The skip- don’t know anything about salvage law. per of the big boat, who was aboard with In order for a salvage claim to be valid, his parents, wife and small dog, issued three requirements must be met: The maydays without giving a position. The boat must be in peril, the rescue service college kids asked what they could do must be rendered voluntarily, and the to help. But before they could do much salvage must be successful. In this case, of anything, the skipper and his group we think all the requirements were met. got into the liferaft. Being not far from Further, there are both high-order and the marina, they were quickly rescued. low-order salvages. Since the salvors The college kids, being young, smart exposed themselves to considerable dan- and adventurous, decided to bust their ger, we think it might be deemed a high- butts — and risk injury — trying to save order risk. But before anybody expects a the boat. After four hours of hard work, huge payday, they should know that the they, with the help of a couple of boats, Contrary to popular belief, boats such as this, courts generally only award salvors 10 managed to get the big Jeanneau off the even if they have been abandoned, are not free to 25% of what was actually salvaged. coral reef and into a marina slip. Given to be ransacked and/or claimed. “When we did the Ha-Ha in ‘08, the the situation the boat had been in, it was water and sinking.” John Chapelle, one Grand Poobah said it was optional get- a remarkable recovery. of the Tardis crew, added, “If someone ting a Temporary Import Permit for our According to Charleston's LiveNews, has already declared mayday, they’ve boat if we were going to stay in Mexico Tardis skipper Conor Smith, 20, said already abandoned ship to basically for less than six months,” write Trevor, the skipper of the grounded boat broke let the elements take the ship and do Karissa and Kiera MacLachlan of the a cardinal rule. “You’re supposed to Seattle-based Taswell 43 Lea Scotia. stay with the vessel until she’s under- “Since we’re poor cruisers, we opted not

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Page 156 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 IN LATITUDES

to spend $50 for the permit. But now mid-May visiting the that we're at Isla Mujeres on the Carib- islands of Moorea, Hua- BEACH HOUSE bean side of Mexico, we're hearing that hine, Raiatea-Tahaa, every boat arriving in Mexico must get a Bora Bora, and hopefully TIP — even folks such as ourselves who Maupiti and Mopellia will only be in Mexico for a week. Any Atolls, en route to our thoughts on the subject? In other news, first stop in the Cook it appears as though our nearly two-year Islands,” report Scott long adventure is coming to a close. It’s and Cindy Stolnitz of the been great.” Marina del Rey-based Our thoughts on the subject are that Switch 51 cat Beach different offi cials in Mexico interpret House. So what are the the rules and regulations differently. To couple doing with all our knowledge, almost nobody has been these shots of moai on forced to get a TIP unless they stay in their website? As best Mexico for six months. However, we've we can fi gure, they took heard one or two secondhand reports a vacation from cruising that some port captains and marinas and fl ew to Easter Island. Easter Island, more correctly known as Rapa have required it. We say you should "I threw off the docklines in San Fran- Nui, is remote — as well as home to 887 moai, try to check out without getting a TIP, cisco in March of ‘08, and since then I the largest of which weighs 80 tons. because what do you have to lose? And have enjoyed the cruising lifestyle more helpful, and grateful for my business. as they always say in Mexico, it’s much than one can imagine,” writes Dennis Having cruised Mexico, I’m now sailing easier to ask forgiveness than for permis- Gade of the San Francisco-based Is- south with plans to transit the Canal sion. But we'd like to hear what kind of lander Freeport 36 Dolce Vita. “I’ve met and spend some time in the Caribbean. TIP experiences others have had. many wonderful cruisers along the way, I’m currently in at Bahia del Sol in El "We have officially checked out of and the locals have always been friendly, Salvador, where the service has been French Polynesia, though we will be wonderful, and where everybody seems here for the rest of the month and into to go out of their way to make sure you

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 157 CHANGES

enjoy yourself. I want to encourage other cruisers not to miss Bahia del Sol.” meet Luc Poupon. Le Select Bar is still Greg and Debbie Dorland of the Lake a great place, although I don’t think the Tahoe-based Catana 52 Escapade have cheeseburgers are as good as they used made it all the way to the Eastern Ca- to be. As for the Bar de O’ubli across the ribbean since doing last fall’s Ha-Ha. In street from Le Select, we paid 12 euros fact, they not only made it to St. Barth, for two ice creams. Wow! In late May we’ll they did so in time for the island’s big head down to Trinidad, where we’ll leave new event, Les Voiles de St. Barth. “We our cat for hurricane season.” completely dominated our class,” writes With the cost of Alaska Airlines fl ights Greg, “thereby winning a beautiful tro- between Mexico and California spiking phy, a magnum of Taittinger, a bottle of from time to time, lots of cruisers are Mount Gay — and a week in a villa in St. opting to fl y Volaris, the Mexican dis- Barth! It was somewhat embarrassing, count airline. While the airline does fl y however, as we were the only boat in into Oakland and Los Angeles, it doesn’t our class. The regatta was windy as hell, do so from coastal cities. So many cruis- with 25 knots of wind and nearly 10- ers are using fl ights from La Paz, Cabo, foot seas. In addition, the courses were Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta to Tijuana, long and had lots of roundings. We were This photo by famed photographer Tim Wright then crossing the border and continuing short-handed, so we only put the kite up proves that it really did blow like stink during on with Southwest. They’re doing so be- once. I’d love to do the event again next the four race of Les Voiles de St. Barth. cause they’ve been getting P.V. to Tijuana year — but on somebody’s race boat. The I wish the emphasis had been a little bit tickets for as low as $39. John and Gilly one thing we did learn is that owners of more on fun — like the Banderas Bay Foy of the Alameda- and Punta Mita- cruising cats who think their boats can Blast and Sea of Cortez Sailing Weeks based Catalina 42 Destiny fl ew Volaris point as high as monohulls are clueless. — rather than an homage to money, but from La Paz to Guadalajara. “Our plane The Voiles race committee and event everyone was very friendly and I got to was a new-looking Airbus 319 staffed organizers pulled out all the stops, and by a very attractive and professional spent some big money on the production. cabin crew, and our fl ight departed and

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Page 158 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 IN LATITUDES

arrived on time. It was a much better south of the border are

fl ying experience than we've had in the usually rare, Harry Haz- LATITUDE/NICK States recently. And since the fare was zard of the San Diego- lower than for an overnight ferry from based Beneteau Idylle 51 La Paz to Mazatlan, it was a no-brainer. Distant Drum reports After being a delivery crew on a Bash, that that wasn’t the case I’ll be fl ying Volaris from Tijuana back at Barra de Navidad on to Puerto Vallarta." Mexico’s Gold Coast this A lot of Americans who haven’t been season. “Barra has always to Mexico assume that all the facilities been known as a cruis- and services south of the border are er-friendly town, with a inferior. That's as big a load of poop as low-key atmosphere, a the U.S. government’s idiotic warning vast array of pubs, great against traveling to Mexico. The truth is restaurants, numerous that the United States has fallen behind little shops, and natural a number of Third World countries when beauty. However, all of these good quali- An unlocked dinghy is an unnecessary tempta- it comes to all kinds of things, from fl ex ties were tarnished by the theft of nine tion. Lock 'em or you won't be laughing the next fuel vehicles to reasonably-priced medi- outboards over the course of the season. time you want to visit neighboring boats. cal care. Speaking of the latter, a friend Most of the dinghies stolen had been un- is that after the infl uential owner of a of ours recently had an emergency ap- locked in the water behind boats. A quick hotel learned about it, a meeting was pendectomy in Puerto Vallarta. The total search of the lagoon usually resulted in called that included the participation of cost at an excellent facility with excellent the dinghy being recovered but the valu- the police, army, navy, hotel association, care was $5,000 U.S. Want to take a able outboard gone. The thefts continued restaurant owners and others. They say stab at what it would have cost in the despite warnings being broadcast daily that measures will be taken so there States? on the local cruisers' net. The good news won't be similar thefts next season." That’s not to suggest that everything What do you call a cruiser who, de- is perfect in Mexico. While dinghy thefts spite being repeatedly warned about

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 159 CHANGES

dinghy thefts in an given area, continues navigation error put the wooden trawler to leave his/her unlocked dinghy and on the beach and she was declared be- outboard in the water overnight? "Fool- SOUTHERN CROSS yond repair, owners Martin and Robin ish," is a word that comes to mind. Hardy had her back together in just fi ve Singlehander Jim Brown was slated to months. It wasn't easy, but they did it. do this year's Pacifi c Puddle Jump, but We fi rst cruised the Sea of Cortez in that trip will have to be delayed, as in the late '70s, and have returned count- early April his 35-ft wooden Chris Craft less times. In fact, we've sailed there so motorsailor Little Fawn was badly holed many times we became jaded. But for and on the bottom at the beach at Agua whatever reason, it was as though we Verde in the Sea of Cortez. We're not sure saw the Sea with new eyes this year. how she ended up like that, but Mark It made us realize once again what a and Vicki Reed of the Portland-based unique and beautiful place it is — and Ericson 38 Southern Cross, who arrived one that can't be appreciated without a after Brown had been sleeping on the boat. One of the best things about it is beach for a few days, report that he got that islands like Espiritu Santo, Partida, lots of help from the cruising community. San Francisco, and all the rest haven't Thanks to the likes of Terry Kennedy of changed in thousands of years — to say the Horstmann 45 trimaran Manta, Bill Nothing is for certain in cruising. Jim Brown nothing of the last 30+ years. and Les of Optical Illusion, Jean-Guy of hoped to take 'Little Fawn' to the South Pacifi c, As for La Paz, like most of coastal Gosling, and Martin and Robin Hardy of but she ended up on a beach in the Sea. Mexico, it’s looking more tidy and more the San Pedro-based 52-ft trawler Cat's ripped out and her mast pulled over by upscale than ever — while still being Meow, a combination of Splash Zone the fi rst attempt to pull her off the beach. friendly and funky. We met a guy who underwater epoxy and plywood sealed If Brown needs inspiration, he need look plans — when the real estate market up the big hole so Little Fawn could be no farther than Cat's Meow, which towed comes back — to build a 200- to 400- towed to Puerto Escondido, where she his boat to Puerto Escondido. After a boat marina in the lagoon to the north- was hauled out. The repairs needed will east of Pichilingue. It won't be long before be substantial, as her sampson post was that many berths will be needed.

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May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 161 Please read before submitting ad Classy CLASSIFIEDS Here’s What To Do: PERSONAL ADS BUSINESS ADS DEADLINE Write your ad. Indicate category. Remember is ALWAYS the price and contact info. We make fi nal placement 1-40 Words ...... $40 $70 for 40 Words Max determination. 41-80 Words ...... $65 • All promotional advertising • 18th at 5 pm Count the words. Anything with a space 81-120 Words .... $90 1 boat per broker per issue for ad to appear in the next issue. before and after counts as one word. We will Photo ...... $30 Logo OK, but no photos/reversals spell-check, abbreviate, edit, as necessary. Due to our short lead time, • Personal Advertising Only • No extra bold type • Max: 12 pt font deadlines are very strict and Mail your ad with check or money order, No business or promo ads except Artwork subject to editor approval. deliver to our offi ce; OR, for the best – and Non-Profi t, Job Op, Business Op Biz ads will not appear on website. include weekends & holidays. most exposure – of your classifi ed ad… ‘Trying to Locate’ Ads are for those searching for Sorry, but… Submit your ad safely online lost boats/people – not shopping – and cost • No ads accepted by phone with Visa, MasterCard or AmEx at: $10 for 20 words max • No ads without payments www.latitude38.com FREE Online Ads are for a private party selling • No billing arrangements Ad will be posted online within two business days, a boat for less than $1,000 – or gear totalling under $1,000. • No verifi cation of receipt appear in the next issue of the magazine, and re- (One per person; must list prices in ad.) • We reserve the right to refuse main online until the following issue is released. All ads will be set to fi t Latitude 38 standard • Re-Run Ads: Same price, same deadline poor quality photos or illegible ads. Latitude 38 15 Locust Ave, Mill Valley, CA 94941 Questions? (415) 383-8200, ext 104 • [email protected]

14-FT MEGABYTE, 2006. El Dorado WHAT’S IN A DEADLINE? Our Classiﬁ ed Hills, CA. $5,500. Regatta-winning boat. Deadline has always been the 18th of the Garaged. Super condition. Complete MKII month, and it’s still pretty much a brick and standard rigs and sails. Custom cam wall if you want to get your ad into the cleat. Like-new trailer. Sail No. 343. Photo magazine. But it’s not so important any- on request. (916) 933-8860 or john@ more when it comes to getting exposure poimiroo.com. for your ad. With our new system, your ad gets posted to our website within a day or so of submission. Then it appears 24 FEET & UNDER in the next issue of the magazine. So $22,500. Will pay you’re much better off if you submit or 14-FT GORDIE NASH WHITEHALL. 20-FT FLICKA, 1981. Tomales. $2,400. One of the classic beau- airfare to Olympia, WA from SF for inspec- renew your ad early in the month. That ties. Fiberglass. Tan bark sail & rigging, tion if you buy. With Yanmar 10hp diesel, way your ad begins to work for you im- rudder w/extended handle, lee board, marine head, great shape. New interior. mediately. There’s no reason to wait for oars and cover. Trailer included. Well Main, jib, drifter with pole, storm sail. Bronze the last minute. thought out and inexpensive to own. Call portholes. Autopilot. Seaworthy clean boat. for more information. (707) 878-2663 or (541) 306-1848 or [email protected]. [email protected]. J/24, 1977. San Francisco. $2,700. 8hp DINGHIES, LIFERAFTS 23-FT WD SCHOCK SANTANA, 1980. Nissan included, good North sails, new Folsom Lake. $7,000. Fun & fast racer. Easom shrouds in ‘08, all rigging in good AND ROWBOATS 14-FT CLUB FJ, 2002. Lake Tahoe, Trailerable cruiser, trailer and longshaft shape. Not dry sailed; does not include a California. $5,000. Excellent condition. 2hp OB Honda. Pineapple carbon main & trailer or slip; cash only - no trades. (415) Complete with all rigging and sails, main, jib. Masthead spinnaker, Dyneema sheets 505-7638 or [email protected]. jib and spinnaker. Includes: New Seitech & halyards, PHRF 171, extra Dacron main. dolly, new trailer, new full cover. (530) Dry stored. http://sites.google.com/site/ 583-4636 or [email protected]. sailingsantana23. (916) 990-5789 or [email protected].

20-FT FLICKA, 1974. Alameda Marina. 24-FT ISLANDER BAHAMA, 1968. $5,000 fi rm. Fiberglass hull #1, expertly Pittsburg Marina. $2,000/obo. Great Bay, completed epoxy over wood 1982. Yan- Delta cruiser. Lots of gear. 2 mains, 2 mar 1GM recently installed. Look, feel jibs, & genoa, 2 anchors, 4hp Suzuki OB, of a wooden classic with epoxy barrier- sleeps 4. VHF, stereo/tape depthfi nder RONDAR 505. Stockton Sailing Club. coated hull. Owner’s age forces sale. compass plus more. (707) 964-1898 or $2,500/obo. 16 1/2-ft all fi berglass Inter- Trailer available. [email protected]. 24-FT MELGES. Alameda Boatyard. national 505, US 5766 Proctor spars. No $17,000/make offer. Hot Deal! Must sell leaks - bottom, fi ns, faired. Fully ready this month. Hull #87. Great PHRF boat. for club racing. Very good sails, taller Performance, fast, easy to trailer. (Photo is new spinnaker. Call Ray for more photos. sistership.) Contact Frank. (512) 750-5735 (209) 772-9695. or [email protected].

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Page 162 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 23-FT SANTANA 23D, 1981. Manton, 26-FT ERICSON, 1985. Marina Bay. 27-FT CATALINA, 1981. Coyote Point, Ca. $6,000. 10 bags of sails, 3.5hp Merc $14,000. Excellent condition, loved and San Mateo. $5,100. Greatly reduced. 4 stroke OB and a trailer. Two rudders; used. Bottom painted spring 2009, sails Sails (main with reef points, 90% jib custom elliptical and the stock rudder. good, Yanmar diesel runs great, wheel 140% genoa), Atomic 4 engine (30hp), Pics of another S23D: www.sailingtexas. steering, depth, speed and trip instru- Aft Traveler. New dual batteries, fuel com/ssantana23104.html. (530) 474-1387 ments, new maststep. Set your standards pump, starter, bilge, oil pressure switch. or [email protected]. high and check this one out. (530) 401- www.sailboatlistings.com/view/14583. 4091 or [email protected]. (650) 269-1583 or tannerphoto@hotmail. 24-FT FLICKA, 1976. Ventura, CA. com. $15,000. Built by Nor-Star Marine 1976. 26-FT IRWIN, 1971. Oyster Point South, Motu has Tohatsu 6.0hp extra long shaft, SF. $2,000. Priced to sell, I’m moving. 28-FT ISLANDER, 1984. Homewood, 30-FT CATALINA, 1976. Fortman Marina, GPS, C.A.R.D, Horizon Intrepid VHF, Pro- Solid boat, great liveaboard. Many extras, Lake Tahoe. $12,000. Fresh water boat Alameda, CA. $14,100. Universal 25 Furl furling, gimbaled 2-burner stove. Jib outstanding Honda 8hp motor. Ready to since new. Professionally maintained. diesel, pressurized water, stove w/oven, furling w/130 jib in perfect condition. (805) go. See craigslist ad for complete info/ Yanmar diesel. New standing rigging. New refrig, new batts, dripless cutlass bearing, 216-0350 or [email protected]. pics. Mention Latitude 38 for discount. roller furling and headsail. Raytheon auto 2 AC/DC panels, cust stern seats, adj (707) 832-2152 or [email protected]. tiller. Autohelm depth and knot meters. backstay, roller furling/jib, cust capt seat, INTERNET FRAUD. Recently, we’ve been Regency Polaris Ship to Shore radio. 2 solar vents, asymmetrical spinnaker, getting another tidal wave of reports of Prestige glass compass. GPS Magma xtra jib, offshore running lts, dodger w/ Internet scams, so we feel compelled bbque. Sleeps 5. Safe, sensible and stainless, 20 amp charger, 50ft shore to warn you once again about this reasonable alternative to owning a Tahoe cord, AM/FM/VHF. Teak holly flooring unfortunate aspect of human nature. If cabin. Great boat for Emerald Bay week- avail for install. (408) 219-4920 or susoz@ somebody wants to buy your boat sight ends. Nada Guides April 2010 average hoganlaw.com. unseen, and suggests sending you a retail $17,000. Priced to sell $12,000. cashier’s check for more than the asking (415) 336-2168. 30-FT CAPE DORY CUTTER, 1984. price, trust your instincts. It is too good Alameda. $37,500. Well maintained. to be true. Usually they want you to cash Recent E80 radar, VariProp, new uphol- the check and return the remainder to stery/cushions. A sweet sailing boat and them for shipping costs. Then, much CAL 2-27, 1976. Stockton Sailing Club. easy to singlehand. Lots of pictures at later, the bank informs you that the check $7,000/obo. Well cared for, always in website. http://cd-30.blogspot.com. (click was no good. We recommend that you fresh water, main, club jib and spinnaker, to enlarge). (510) 910-2099 or mbritt@ don’t even respond to the initial email Atomic Four runs well. (209) 473-7124 or eyedocs.com. inquiry. For more info on these cons, see: [email protected]. www.craigslist.com/about/scams. Brave 30-FT CATALINA, 1981. South Beach, New World. 28-FT PEARSON, 1976. Berkeley Marina. San Francisco. $19,500. 27hp 3GM30F $15,950. Great Bay boat. Complete reﬁ t Yanmar diesel with new transmission; new since 2007. New items: jib and furling sys- 27-FT HUNTER, 1981. Alameda. $15,000/ main, good 110 jib, wheel, recent beige tem, fresh water head, standing and run- obo. This is a 1981 Hunter sloop. Great leather interior, fresh bottom paint. TV/ 25 TO 28 FEET ning rigging, lifelines, refrigeration, plus... sailboat. Call for more information or to VCR, VHF. Exceptional condition, roomy 2005 mainsail. Bottom job 2009. Pictures set up a showing. (510) 326-3694. day sailer. (415) 731-4956 or law-cbrose@ 27-FT CATALINA, 1971. Pt. Richmond. online. www.ﬁ rstamnapa.com/IBEX. (415) sbcglobal.net. $3,000. Puff dinette version, mid-ship gal- 205-0687 or (707) 363-3196. 27-FT CATALINA, 1978. Coyote Point ley, engine well has Evinrude 9.9 double Marina. $9,500. Traditional layout, Atomic extra-long shaft, newish mainsail recut 27-FT CAPITAL/NEWPORT SAILBOAT. 4, extensive restoration: topside paint, by Quantum, solid pre oil-embargo epoxy 1971. Union Point Marina, Oakland. new standing/running rigging, new full hull, 2 gel batteries, see SF Bay Area $3,500. An excellent boat for San Fran- batten main, 110% and 150% headsails, Craigslist for info. http://sfbay.craigslist. cisco Bay and coastal areas. Runs and new Harken furler,self tailing winches, org/nby. (510) 685-7571 or califboy2010@ sails beautifully. Very well equipped. Call electric anchor windlass with bow roller, yahoo.com. for details. Selling due to health problems. new DC electrical system, battery com- (209) 887-3469 or (209) 986-6004 or biner, remote controlled 1200 watt in- 28-FT ISLANDER, 1977. San Rafael. [email protected]. verter, pressure water, butane stove, BBQ, $9,800. Comfortable Bay cruiser/racer. crank stereo, Tiller Pilot, Garmin GPS One year old bottom and Ullman main. interconnected with DSC VHF via NMEA 30-FT PEARSON, 1976. Brisbane Marina. Five jibs (including self-tending), spin- with output for laptop navigation. Lots $15,000. In great condition. Atomic 4 en- naker. Volvo diesel, wheel steering, lines more! (650) 678-0402 or (650) 558-1549 gine (gas). Autopilot, VHF, gennaker, boat aft, teak and holly sole. Pictures available. or [email protected]. covers, depth meter. Contact Michael or Good condition. (707) 478-7296 or (707) Lili to set up an appointment for viewing. 829-7744 or [email protected]. (650) 396-7181 or (650) 520-5230 or 29 TO 31 FEET [email protected].

30-FT ISLANDER, 1971. Moss Landing 30-FT CATALINA, 1978. Oxnard, CA. Harbor District. $9,780. Mk II. 4-cyl gas $21,900. Tall mast. Universal diesel 25-FT CORONADO, 1969. Berkeley Ma- inboard (Palmer P60). Fiberglass hull w/ 30hp. Only 100 hrs! Very clean & totally rina. $2,500/obo. Good condition-hauled teak trim. 3-burner alcohol stove/oven, upgraded throughout, incl mast, boom & out and painted 2 years ago, 2 mains, jib BBQ. Depth/fishfinder, CB and VHF rigging. Exceptional condition! Impressive and spinnaker, new Harken winches, life radio. Recent work: Sept ‘09 hauled out, recent survey. Currently insured. Call or jackets, some new rigging. (925) 212- tuned up, oil change, new head, replaced email for pics or info. (805) 200-0689 or 9210 or (925) 283-6335 or carneys@ through hulls and zincs. Sails include [email protected]. comcast.net. spinnaker, 2 storm jibs, 100% & 130% 27-FT O’DAY, 1978. San Rafael, CA. genoa. Mahogany interior. 5 lifejackets, 29-FT ERICSON, 1973. Alameda, CA. $14,900. Turn key. Race well or cruise 27-FT HUNTER, 1984. South Lake Tahoe. lots of extras. Sleeps 4 comfortably. $9,000. Good condition. New North in comfort with large V-berth, newer $7,000. Sail Tahoe, this boat has 5 sails Good solid boat. Ready to sail. Take over mainsail and cover. Radio, BBQ and interior cushions, Yanmar, Dual AGM’s, and a Westerbeke 10 2B 10hp Wheel slip. (831) 915-6783 or (831) 659-1921 or microwave new. Good interior. Sleeps 4 1 start battery, rigging, Martec folder, steering and custom Harken traveler and [email protected]. comfortably. (925) 449-8584 or anjcos@ PSS shaft seal, ProFurl, AP with remote. Lewmar 30 two speeds. Lots of teak and sbcglobal.net. No disappointments. (415) 269-3140 or a built-in head, no Porta-Potti. (775) 721- [email protected]. 5920 or [email protected].

CARPENTRY Captain Chris Connors: Yacht Deliveries OODRUM MARINE Mobile cabinet shop Instructional Passage Making, Hired Crew, New Boat Owner Instruction. W Specializing in custom interior Contact Lon Woodrum at: 150 Ton Masters License, Power & Sail cabinetry, tables, cabinets, countertops, 415-420-5970 Mexico/Paciﬁ c Coast, Dive Guide, Lucky Fisherman, Good Cook cabinsoles. For power or sail. www.woodrummarine.com [email protected] • (707) 799-7496 Rigging NEILPRYDE MARINE SURVEYS by Captain Alan Hugenot Jack D. Scullion Electronics Yacht Services Naval Architect • Yacht Delivery Skipper Troubleshooting Accredited Marine Surveyor (SAMS) [email protected] Electrical Installations Bay or Delta • No Travel Charges • MC / VISA / AmEx (510) 919-0001 We Gladly Install Gear You Provide SAILS [email protected] • (415) 531-6172

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 163 QUALITY CRUISING SAILS FOR LESS!

NOW MAINSAILS MIZZENS 10% STAYSAILS OFF HEADSAILS SPINNAKERS 30-FT CAPO. Schumacher Design/Westerly 30-FT CATALINA, 1978. Marina Village, SAILCOVERS built, 1984. San Diego. $34,000. Rare ﬁ nd. Alameda. $14,500/obo. Very clean dry STRONGTRACK BIG 30 footer. Well maintained. Full sail boat. Roller furling jib, dodger, wheel inventory, new main, full headroom, full steering, Harken traveler, Anderson electronics - 5 displays, Yanmar diesel. winches, Atomic 4, GPS, interior cush- (510) 521-2353 • [email protected] Great race record. Email for more photos/ ions, runs great. Must see to appreciate. info. (650) 450-3496 or david_vieregg@ (925) 838-4375 or jdamele@comcast. 2021 Alaska Packer Pl. • Grand Marina • Alameda, CA 94501 intuit.com. net.

SAILMAKER TO THE WORLD 30-FT SEIDELMANN 299, 1979. Pelican Harbor, Sausalito. $9,500/obo. Great cruising sloop. Speed, full keel, comfortable accommodations. Yanmar diesel, radio, depthfi nder, knotmeter, extra jib, CK, RAMSAY & W well maintained. Motivated seller. Sau- DLO HITI salito slip available to qualifi ed buyer. E NG (707) 972-1524 or (707) 462-1851 or W Marine Surveyors mike@pacifi c.net.

30-FT RAWSON PILOTHOUSE, 1977. Vessel surveys, Berkeley. $15,000/obo. Price reduced. consulting, deliveries. Hull number 2 of 36. This William Garden design is a rare classic and ready to be somebody’s dream cruiser or liveaboard. Serving the Many upgrades. http://groups.yahoo. Bay Area com/group/rawsonownersnet. Contact Jason at [email protected] or since 1980 (510) 206-5456.

30-FT FISHER/NORTHEASTER, 1976. 30-FT NEWPORT, 1974. Sausalito. Price www.norcalmarinesurveyors.com San Diego, CA. $79,500. The aft cabin negotiable. By Capital Yacht. Good version of the famous British Motorsailer Atomic 4 and transmission. Very nice (415) 505-3494 Fisher yachts. New Yanmar, new North varnish and exterior. Roomy interior. sails. She is absolutely Bristol inside and Possible liveaboard (with permission). out. For photos and complete information Needs some TLC. Sacriﬁ ce to ﬁ rst semi- see website. www.will-shelton.com. (619) reasonable offer. Some trades may be HAWAII 616-9209 or [email protected]. considered. [email protected] or LONG TERM DRY STORAGE (415) 999-5626. Clear Customs at our dock

156°1'30" W 19°40'20" N 29-FT WINGA 862, 1984. Long Beach. $14,000. Quality Swedish sailboat. Excel- 31-FT HUNTER, 1984. Ballena Isle Ma- TOLL FREE lent condition. 2nd owner. Functional aft rina, Alameda, CA $22,000. Very good 888-458-7896 cabin. Volvo single cylinder diesel, sail condition. Full dodger, roller furler, Quest www.gentryskonamarina.com drive, folding prop. Selden spars, Furlex, 150 custom genoa, spinnaker pole, Ray- several good sails, spinnaker gear, refrig- marine radar/chartplotter and autopilot, eration. Great performer. PHRF 186. (909) cockpit table, Yanmar diesel, VHF radio, The friendliest boatyard in Hawaii 792-1108 or [email protected]. CD with 6 speakers, low wattage inverters, (2) new batteries, 2009 bottom paint, 29-FT COLUMBIA, 1966. East Bay. H/C pressurized water, (2) burner stove $5,000. Atomic 4, new mainsail, jib, stay- with oven, BBQ, inﬂ atable mini-dinghy, sail, full headroom, perfect liveaboard for self climbing Top Climber. All Coast Guard one, light, airy, good storage, large galley, required safety equipment, charts and digital TV and VCR, refrigerator. Slip; $330 books, (2) anchors and rodes, buoy hook. month. Liveaboard; $5,000 (includes all Too much more to list. [email protected] items). Sailing; $4,500 (less TV, VCR). or (775) 626-2679 or (775) 722-1600. ENGINES • PARTS • SERVICE Available June 15. (510) 233-2574.

We Ship Repair, Anywhere 1-800-326-5135 (415) 453-1001 Restoration & FAX: (415) 453-8460 New Construction www.helmutsmarine.com Fred Andersen Boat & Woodworks (510) 522-2705 Call us for 619 Canal Street your nearest San Rafael, CA 94901 STARBOARD YACHT DELIVERIES Volvo Penta dealer 1-800-326-5135 Over 50,000 sea miles • Paciﬁ c, Caribbean, Atlantic USCG Master 100 GT STCW • Power & Sail AUTHORIZED POWER CENTER Rick Whiting • (415) 740-2924 • [email protected]

Page 164 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 33-FT HOBIE, RENO, NV. $20,000. 32-FT PEARSON, 1964. Ventura. CHEOY LEE CLIPPER 36, 1978. Coyote 32 TO 35 FEET Retractable keel, good trailer, full set of $12,000. Pearson Vanguard. GPS, ra- Point. $60,000. A well-outfi tted cruiser in sails. Lake Tahoe boat, currently on trailer dar, wind generator, solar panel, depth, excellent condition. Great sail inventory, 35-FT ERICSON, 1974. Downtown Sau- in Reno. Contact Ted Stoever. (775) 787- autopilot, propane range, refrigeration, dodger, 25hp diesel, radar, GPS, SSB, salito. $37,500. Upwind slip with view of 7167 or [email protected]. strong diesel. Good sails, dodger, and EPIRB, Navico wheelpilot 5000, Sailomat Angel Island from the cockpit, forest green ground tackle. Rigging in good condition. steering system, 1200 Maxwell power canvas, dodger, roller furling, Gennaker, 34-FT CATALINA, 1986. Puerto Escon- Needs painting but completely sailable; windlass. www.zen-in.com/dragonlady. D.S., K.M., VHF, GPS, Avon infl atable, dido, Baja Sur, MX. $49,500. Turn-key. used every weekend. (805) 570-9883 or (650) 996-5087 or [email protected]. Yanmar diesel-950 hrs. A very pretty boat. Live aboard a super equipped Catalina 34 [email protected]. (707) 357-1309. in beautiful Puerto Escondido, Mexico for 36-FT SABRE 362, 1998. Berkeley. $1/day. Fly for less than your local moor- $135,000. Shallow draft keel. Blue hull 33-FT RANGER, 1977. Brisbane. $28,500. ing fees. Boat, mooring, two dinghies and 36 TO 39 FEET painted 2010. Topsides painted 12/06. Race or cruise, clean and well maintained. more. (541) 948-0066 or [email protected]. Standing rigging replaced 2/07. New New: diesel, prop, shaft, fuel tank, life- Autopilot 5/07. New mainsail 7/08. Furl- lines, forestay, lower shrouds. Autopilot, 8 33-FT PEARSON 10 METER, 1976. D-26 ing jib and lightly used asymmetrical head sails, storm jib, spinnaker, Garhauer Marina Bay, Richmond, CA. $16,500 fi rm. spinnaker. [email protected] or vang, solar, awning. Lines led aft for single Very clean, autopilot, Yanmar diesel - 270 (925) 766-2205. handing. (650) 740-7175 or captbly5@ hrs, new shaft and prop, new knot meter, astound.net. new VHF, good main and jib, like-new 38-FT HUGHES, 1970. $21,000/obo. cruising spinnaker. (831) 334-1161. Canadian built S&S design. Sound hull, 33-FT HUNTER, 1991. Emery Cove Yacht low hours on nearly new diesel engine. Harbor. $48,500. Full batten main, 3 reefs, Sails nicely, needs newer/upgraded roller furling jib, radar, GPS chart plot- equipment. (831) 915-4984 or coffi na@ ter, dodger, 2 anchors with rodes, 27hp sbcglobal.net. Yanmar, refrigeration, diesel heater, very 38-FT X-YACHT 382 SLOOP, 2002. Croatia. $159,000/offers. Dry stored near clean, great for cruising, 8.5 dinghy and 36-FT HUNTER 356, 2003. Alameda. 8hp outboard. [email protected]. Dubrovnik, Croatia. Being sold by original owner. Recent health issue forces sale $92,900. Great boat with a very spa- of this beautiful 38-ft sailboat. 2 cabins, cious interior. Priced to sell quickly. See head, galley, etc. An absolutely turnkey all the details and photos at my web site. boat in pristine condition loaded with http://web.mac.com/laynegalloway. (801) extras including Spectra watermaker, 419-4100. 32-FT HUNTER 326, 2002. Oyster Cove etc. Ready to sail Croatia this summer Marina. $65,000. Second owner of a or take you anywhere in Med, Europe, great coastal cruiser. Comes complete or across the ocean. Lowest priced late and ready for an adventure on the Bay model X-Yacht 382 available anywhere in or exploring the coast. http://mamasdia- world. (415) 850-8110 or ivansausalito@ monds.blogspot.com. (480) 650-3162 or sbcglobal.net. (480) 632-0189 or kevin737320@msn. 35-FT J/105, 2002. San Rafael. $112,000. com. Excellent condition. Lightly used. Factory Comfort Group package. Nexus instru- 33-FT BRISTOL PLASTIC CLASSIC. ments, wind, speed, depth, and under 1969. Brisbane. $12,000. Halsey Her- deck hydraulic autopilot. Garmin GPS reshoff design. Great Bay sailer, livea- 36-FT NEW YORK, 1982. Morro Bay. Map 182C Chartplotter. Mast mounted board. Electric auxiliary power, 48-volt $27,500. Pegasus. Great condition, Tacktick Racemaster. Stereo/CD with system, no fossil fuel required. Berthed professionally maintained. New radar/ Bose cockpit speakers. Standard Horizon in Brisbane. Email for details: cwbyslr@ GPS/chartplotter, new self steer, new VHF with RAM mic on binnacle. Zantrex comcast.net. standing rigging incl chainplates, new battery charger, extra battery. Two sets inverter, fresh diesel, 10+ sails. Incl sails. Beautiful boat. (415) 850-3372. J/32, 1997. $99,000. Great racer/cruiser. 38-FT CATALINA 380, 1998. Alameda. new 8-ft dink and new 2hp motor. (559) Fast, fun, comfortable, easy to sin- 960-2444 or (559) 237-4715 or steve@ 33-FT TARTAN 10, 1979. South Beach $109,000. Exceptionally clean inside glehand. Many working and racing and out. Well equipped. Professionally fruitfi llings.com. Harbor, San Francisco. $4,900. Needs sails. 2 mains, 4 jibs, 3 spinnakers with to be repowered, otherwise in good/fair maintained. New bottom 01/10. Priced for pole. Yanmar diesel. New bottom paint. quick sale. Call: (209) 612-8128. 36-FT TRISBAL, 1981. Sausalito Yacht Har- shape. Great boat to sail in the Bay. A rare www.pbert.com/j32. (415) 497-0795 or bor. $64,900. Ta Mana (aluminum hull, built fi nd for the right sailor. (650) 307-2927 or [email protected]. 39-FT FREYA IN STEEL, 1974. Oxnard, in France) is a proven, comfortable world (650) 697-4450 ext:4. VanGiersbergen@ cruiser, loaded and in excellent condition msn.com. CA. $35,000/obo. Freya Halvorsen 39 steel sloop. Insulated, rebuilt 85hp Ford with a recent haulout and bottom paint. A turn key Pacifi c Cup boat ready to go 2010. 34-FT HUNTER 33.5T, 1991. Point diesel. Autopilot, radar, GPS, fridge, shower, hot water. Hood roller furling, AIS, SSB, weatherfax, navigation computer, Richmond, CA. $38,000. For sale by solar panel, windvane, Raymarine electron- original owners; impeccably maintained. hydraulic windlass, sounder, dodger, refurbished aluminum mast/boom. 8-ft ics, dodger, Yanmar 3GM30F, 3 blade fold- Full-battened main w/Dutchman fl aking ing prop. Sails in good to excellent condi- system, roller furling jib, autopilot, 27hp dinghy. (805) 200-6089 or traim69@ hotmail.com. tion. For details and pictures please check Yanmar, infl atable dinghy with outboard the website. www.getawayonthebay.com. included. Photos and additional information 36-FT CATALINA, 1983. Alameda. [email protected] or (415) at website. http://ssmay2.blogspot.com. 272-5789. Email [email protected]. $49,950. New dodger, main, wheel, can- 32-FT KETTENBURG, 1978. Sausalito. vas, furler, fuel tank, shaft, radar, GPS, $28,000. Fiberglass hull - Kettenburg jib, interior cushions, head, and more. 37-FT CREALOCK, 1980. Monterey. 35-FT WAUQUIEZ PRETORIEN, 1985. quality. New Betamarine diesel 25hp w/40 $55,000. Cutter. Ballenger tabernacled San Francisco Bay $best offer. A proven Inverter, bimini, Autohelm, 4 batteries, hours, new prop, shaft, gauges. Fresh VHF, cockpit cushions, shower, 12V-120V mast. New Yanmar w/saildrive, ra- performance passage-maker for sale by Hood sails. Harken furler, traveller, new dar, GPS, easy access to all systems, original owner. Rare direct shaft drive refrigerator, sleeps 7, diesel 2670hrs, all rigging ‘08, lifelines ‘09. Raymarine 600 lines led to cockpit, pressurized water, 70gal diesel, 3 watertight bulkheads. version - no sail drive to worry about! GPS, depth, speedo. Manual windlass. Not in yacht condition, needs finish Loaded with gear and ready to go! excellent condition. (510) 731-4259 or Bottom ‘09. (707) 337-8031. [email protected]. work. Great sailing little ship. Price fi rm. www.pretorien35.info. (510) 278-9320 or [email protected]. [email protected].

MikeMaurice @ YachtsDelivered.com V Power - 45 Years Experience – Sail Y superwind.com Expert- No. Pacific/4Seasons & Bar Crossings China-Alaska +1-503-310-7590 - Caribbean For the best – and most exposure – of your classiﬁ ed ad… WHILE YOU’RE AWAY YOUR ANIMALS CAN PLAY submit your ad safely online at: www.latitude38.com . And you can know they are warm, safe, and being looked after. Your ad will be posted online within two business days, Classy appear in the next issue of the magazine, KITTY COTTAGE Insured through PSA, LLC. DOGGIEVENTURE Idea! and remain online until the following issue is released. Cageless cat boarding C-and-S-California.com A doggie daycare on the go!

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 165 38-FT HUNTER 380, 2000. Alameda BOATERS SWAP MEET Marina #350. $89,500. Priced to SELL. Radar, autopilot, Yanmar, chart plotter, Docktown Marina electric winch, inverter, good shape. Email for pic’s and spec sheet. (916) 817-0081 Saturday, May 22, 7:30 am to 2:00 pm or [email protected]. 1548 Maple St., Redwood City 36-FT UNION - CUTTER RIGGED, 1986. Oregon. $110,000. Beautiful documented Sell stuff you don't need anymore, and buy stuff you do sailboat w/large salon and separate need! Wondrous goods and marine items at bargain prices. shower. New Isuzu diesel engine (‘03 - 36-FT ISLANDER, 1977. Oakland Yacht 200 hrs). Full cockpit enclosure. Great Club, Alameda, CA. $47,500. S/V Cou- Free admission. Live music. Food and beverages available. liveaboard. Consider partial trade for West rageous. A well-found, professionally Sponsored by Peninsula Yacht Club. Coast property/condo. www.ablboats. maintained yacht: a seasoned voyager. com/details.php?id=81027. Contact Refurbished Perkins 4-108 (List Marine). For information, contact: Judi McDowell [email protected]. Furuno 60 mile radar. Garmin combo GPS/chart plotter/depth sounder w/ (510) 449-1618, [email protected] 37-FT CATALINA SLOOP, 1987. Sausali- tracking. 4-person canister liferaft. Rac- to. Asking $54,000 now. Bristol condition. ing boom vang, adjustable backstay, www.pycboating.org Full canvas, dodger, self-tending jib, air heavy-duty main sheet traveler, 7 cockpit conditioner, forced air heating, autopilot, winches. Race- and cruise-ready. (925) wheel, radios. Beautiful interior. Hot-cold 202-9092 or [email protected]. water, shower, sleeps 6 or more. Paid 62K, 3 years ago. Let’s deal! Tom (415) 36-FT BENETEAU 361, 2002. SF Marina 472-7527 or (415) 609-7527 (cell). West Basin. $118,000. Bristol, loaded, custom, all electronics, recent haul-out and bottom paint + coveted SF Marina berth. Will consider lease or non-equity partnership. [email protected] or (415) 771-0741.

36-FT ISLANDER, 1975. Clipper - Sau- salito. $34,500. Great partnership boat for cruising or racing! Fully race equipped including 2 spinnakers, extra winches and halyards, hydraulic backstay and boomvang. Roller furling jib and recent 38-FT KETTENBURG, 1956. 3 Available. mast re-build for $11K. Recently rebuilt “Nice boat!”, “Beautiful boat!”, “Gorgeous Atomic 4 gas engine. Start having fun on boat!” heard many times from other the Bay! Contact Bob. (415) 986-5000 or boaters during every sail. Enjoy char- [email protected]. acter, admiration, and fantastic sailing while sustaining the heritage. Details at: (36-FT LOA) 28-FT LYLE HESS-DSN. www.sailk38.com. (916) 847-9064 or Bristol Channel Cutter, San Rafael, CA. [email protected]. Keep ports open in the rain $43,000. Built at Sam B. Morse Yard, Costa Mesa, CA. Never launched. GRP. • Air out cabin and head Custom hardwood deck and house, 40 TO 50 FEET • Maintain visibility bronze ports, new Saab diesel. Fully • Install easily, without tools found, mast needs to be stepped. With • Enjoy life aboard more often or w/o hwy trailer. (562) 899-0774. CHECK OUT OUR NEW SIZES AND PRODUCTS! 37-FT HUNTER, 1982. Hidden Harbor, Rio Vista. $34,900. Cutter rigged, Cheru- Made from clear UV-resistant Lexan with bronze tint. bini designed, Yanmar diesel, dodger, autopilot, lines aft, cruise vet, Achilles dinghy with dinghy tow system, 18hp www. .com Johnson. Hauled 5/09, new rigging 6/09. www.mysailboatforsale.com. (775) 721- 5221 or [email protected]. 50-FT HOLLMAN CUTTER, 1989. Marina (941) 448-9173 37-FT O’DAY, 1979. Brisbane, CA. Bay YH, Richmond, CA. $189,900. Major $30,000. Center cockpit, 30 hp Yanmar, reﬁ t ‘03 from keel to masthead, LPU, autopilot, radar-chart plotter, windlass, barrier, rigging all redone. All sails furled new sails, 150 gal. fuel, 150 gal. water. from cockpit for safety, easily single- or Ideal for Mexico. Also has roller furling doublehanded. SSB, autopilot, VHF, GPS, MORE ENERGY! and dodger. Dinghy and offshore raft, elec windlass w 300’ chain, lrg chart table, loads of extra gear. (650) 464-1979 or lrg galley, reefer w/sep freezer, two state- [email protected]. rooms, two heads. 280 water, 85 diesel. KEEP BATTERIES CHARGED! Strong, fast, cruising cutter w/NO TEAK. • KISS wind generators Call or email for more info. (520) 906-4351 or [email protected]. • Solar panels and MORE

USE BATTERIES EFFICIENTLY! YOGA FOR SAILORS ON THE SAN RAFAEL WATERFRONT Small group classes Wednesdays 9:00-9:45 a.m.; • LED lights Tuesdays & Thursdays 6:30-8:00 p.m. First class free when you mention this ad! See www.bowyoga.com. • Engel fridge/ [email protected], (415) 785-4530, (510) 333-8846 freezers • Wonder Wash Captain Jack’s Sport Fishing and Diving and more Local - Ocean • Bay • Lake • River - Fishing & Diving Diving Instruction 415-898-6947 • 800-475-8643 www.svhotwire.com 727.943.0424 www.captainjacks.net

Page 166 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 40-FT CALIBER LRC, 1998. Mazatlan. $209,975. Well cared for and fully equipped with electrical and electronic gear. Rare on the West Coast. This is a great cruising boat. Will be in Mexico through the summer. Email for details. (916) 806-6181 or [email protected].

42-FT WESTSAIL, 1980. San Pedro. 42-FT CLASSIC MOTORSAILER, 1964. 48-FT SAILBOAT (FACTORY FERRO). $105,000. Center cockpit cutter rig with Astoria, OR. $84,900. Monk designed, Cutter, 1988. Redwood City. $49,000/ teak decks. Extensive sail inventory and built by Blanchard Boat Yard. Yellow obo. Beautiful liveaboard, craftsman reliable Ford Lehman diesel engine (1050 cedar on oak frames - hull sound, no rot. wood interior, full galley, 2 staterooms, hours). 350 gallons water, 100 gallons Ketch rigged with a 130hp Cummins die- fi replace, hot water; davit/dinghy. Aft to diesel, 60 gallons holding. Virgil radar, sel engine. Motors and sails at 8-9 knots. bowsprit 54’ LOA, roller jib, 45hrs on Benmar autopilot, Heart inverter. Maxwell Pressure hot and cold water, full shower, Volvo MD3B. Needs paint & exterior TLC. electric windlass w/ two plow anchors and diesel stove, built-in freezer/refrig, new Pictures. (559) 284-8574 or bohemaluna@ 325’ high-test chain. Dickenson diesel 41-FT HUNTER A.C., 2002. Bay Area. electronics, new overhead, new sole, new yahoo.com. stove/oven and coldplate Technotics re- $154,500. 2 GPS chartplotters, radar, sails, and more. A classy sea-kindly boat. frigeration. Boat is in great condition and wind/speed/depth/auto, generator, fl at Great set-up as a liveaboard. See details 44-FT KELLY-PETERSON, 1977. ready to go anywhere. (310) 991-1119 or screen plus much more. Cruiser ready at website. http://monkmotorsailer. $100,000. Extraordinary. Purpose built [email protected]. and low hours. Fresh bottom job, August homestead.com. (503) 325-9141 or (503) for life in the tropics. Green power keeps ‘09. (530) 242-1064 or (530) 941-0738 or 338-9340 or [email protected]. systems running while others are run- [email protected]. ning their motors. Refi t 2008: solar, LED lights, big alternator, big batteries. Most 41-FT MORGAN CLASSIC MODEL, 1991. beautiful boat in any anchorage: new San Carlos, Mexico. $98,000. Primo canvas and new paint in Herreshoff-style condition. Equipped and ready to cruise. palette. New rig, new electronics, new Center cockpit, great liveaboard, must electrical system, new plumbing, cus- see to appreciate roominess. Recent tom features. Full set of sails, spinnaker survey. See blog for equipment list and and gear. Just hauled. Baja Ha-Ha ‘08, current photos. http://sailboatvagari. Puddle Jump ‘09. More details at website. blogspot.com. [email protected] www.thinwolfadventures.com. Contact 44-FT KELLY PETERSON, 1977. Kemer or (520) 825-7551. Mike. [email protected] Turkiz Marina, Turkey. $110,000. Fully 50-FT HERRESHOFF CARIBBEAN. or (509) 860-9614. loaded for cruising Kelly Peterson 44, 1978. Napa Marine. $199,500. 14.5’ Grace. 85hp Perkins engine/rebuilt 2009, beam, 6’ draft, Perkins 6-354, radar/ rigging new 2007, tools, many parts, all AP/SSB-Ham, VHF, Probe, 6 person equipment including watermaker, solar raft, spares, tools, dinghy/motor. Fresh panels, wind generator, diving equipment, interior refi nish. Not a fi re sale. Serious new water tank, new diesel tank 2010. inquiries only. www.sailboatlistings.com. Start your cruising life on the beautiful (707) 834-4798. southern coast of Turkey. Check out Kemer Marina, Grace’s home, online. 40-FT BENETEAU OCEANIS 400, 1994. www.grace44.com. (702) 838-2902 or Alameda. $98,000. Very functional two (702) 767-8322 or [email protected]. 45-FT SPARKMAN & STEPHENS. cabin/head confi guration. Sleeps six. New Seafarer Yawl, 1962. San Francisco. canvas, stainless steel arch, davits 150kg 42-FT CATALINA MK II, 2001. $167,000. $85,000. Yacht Soltura. Built in Holland capacity. Roller furling sails, two sets of Good racer, great cruiser, 2 staterooms, in 1962 of hand-laid fi berglass. Seven sails, spinnaker. Well equipped, diesel 2 heads, electric halyard winch, RL80C Seafarer 45’s were built, and their high heater, radar, auto pilot, more... (925) 323- GPS/chartplotter/radar with 10” color quality of construction is evident. Great 8692 or [email protected]. monitor, Waltz radar leveling system, size for the Bay, Delta and Pacifi c. Sea- Navtec hydraulic backstay, 3-blade Max- kindly and easily handled by two people. Prop. 2 mains, 2 jibs, 3 kites, spinnaker Contact Jerry. [email protected] or pole stowed on mast. For additional up- (415) 435-3513. grades and photos go to website, or call Rob. www.beniciayachtclub.com/boats/ 44-FT KETCH, 1984. Ala Wai, Honolulu. glory.html. (707) 746-1128. 45-FT LOA LAURIE DAVIDSON. $Best Offer. Steel ketch, solid, no elec- Price reduced $5,000. Now $85,500. tronics. [email protected]. IRWIN 43 MK III (DEEP DRAFT), 1988. Infrared. Cross-over racer/cruiser. Now South Beach Harbor, A Dock. $115,000. a roomy Swan-like cabin “furniture boat”. 42-FT TAYANA, 1988. Sausalito. $159,500. A perfect sloop cruiser for SF. Center New refrigeration, microwave, new extra A real beauty in excellent condition. Aft cockpit, 2 cabin, 2 full heads. Buy all or batteries, with perfect sine wave inverter cockpit, cutter rigged, 44hp Yanmar CAL 40, 1964. Annapolis, MD. $25,000. part. Contact Tom for details, photos, for internet-computer navigation station. w/1800 hrs. 120 gal. fuel, 150 gal. water, This Bill Lapworth fi berglass yacht’s pedi- etc. (408) 505-9328 or (951) 244-1116 or 3000 Autohelm, walk-up sugar scoop 35 gal holding. Amenities too numerous to gree in racing is second to none. Cal 40’s [email protected]. transom. Like-new fully battened Dacron list, include: B&G instruments & autopilot, have cruised the world over. A one-owner with dbl reef (self tacker) with Harken roller radar, GPS, Lofrans windlass in fordeck boat that needs some TLC. www.annapoli- furler 100% jib. Compares well with any locker w/washdown, 45#CQR w/chain, syachtsales.com. Call Dave. (650) 281-4688 boat in performance and accommodation. 33#Bruce, dinghy davits, Profurl jib & or [email protected]. Contact Ray Lopez. (209) 772-9695. staysail, SS winches. New canvas, battery charger, interior upholstery, water heater. Possible prime Sausalito slip. Full details and pictures available. (530) 848-0285 or [email protected].

SMALL AD, SMALL PRICES • RIGGING ONLY PROFESSIONAL DELIVERY CAPTAINS Standing and running rigging, life lines, furling gear, winches, line, windlasses, San Diego based, USCG Master 100 GT. Sail and power. travelers, wire and terminals, blocks, vangs, and much more. ASA-certiﬁ ed instructional deliveries. Paciﬁ c Mexico and Baja Bash specialists. ~ ~ ~ Problem solving and discount mail order are our specialties ~ ~ ~ [email protected] • www.boatdeliverycaptain.org www.riggingonly.com • (508) 992-0434 • email: [email protected] • (619) 913-7834 • COMPLETE MARINE WOODWORK Latitude 38 eBooks Design / Restoration • Expert European Craftsmanship • Interior / Exterior FREE ✶ AVAILABLE WORLDWIDE ✶ Repairs / Maintenance • Marine Windows & Frame Replacement Wood & Dry Rot Repairs • Varnish Work • Marine Painting www.latitude38.com/ebooks.html References Available • Reasonable Rates • Call (415) 331-6718

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 167 FULL 51 FEET & OVER

SERVICE 50-FT CUSTOM STEEL KETCH, 1987. MARINA Berkeley. $119,000. Unique, sturdy, well-maintained custom steel ketch, Wil- liam Garden design, 15’ beam, 60’ LOA. Friendly, helpful, fully bilingual staff Great character and liveaboard comfort, pleasure to sail and handles well. See All new hardwood docks • Wireless Internet photos, full specs, open house dates on website. www.chloemarie.org. Email Dinghy landing with potable water [email protected]. 32-FT CUTTER TRI, 1982. San Diego. $15,000. Horseman. Dagger boards, 5 New protective piling & sheetpile breakwaters • And more! sails, 43’ mast, 10hp 4-stroke, 2 A-P, solar, on mooring. Ready for Hawaii now! TEL: 01152 612 122 1646 (619) 709-4199. email: [email protected] www.marinadelapaz.com Apdo. Postal 290, La Paz, 23000, Baja California Sur, Mexico

55-FT FIBER STEEL, 1980. Sacramento, The Ultimate Boat Organization Software River View Marina. $100,000/obo. 72’ LOA, 16’ beam, F/C, 671 main engine See usPreventive at the Strictly Maintenance Sail Pacific Boat Show Can * Save April 15 $ -18 with 300 hrs. 15KW gen, 1100 gals. diesel, 500 gals. fresh water, ketch rig. New 37-FT PRIVILEGE, 2000. Ensenada, * Digitally organize all your boat's documents & specifications sails, 6’6” head room, sleeps 8. Dinghy Mexico. $249,000. Owner’s version fully equipped, ready to go, blue water catama- * Store manuals, diagrams, pictures, renewals & registrations and new electronics, 385’ 3/8 ht chain, 2000 lb windlass, 2 heads, shower, ice ran designed by Marc Lombard. Highest * Keep track of maintenance items required & completed maker, 2 refrigerators/freezers. Great build quality and fi nish, certifi ed by Bureau * Save for quick access all your favorite service providers liveaboard with liveaboard slip. 7 minutes Veritas as Class A Ocean vessel. www. to downtown Sacto. Possible trades? summatrix.com/padma/?page_id=1422. [email protected]. Categories: Health forces sale. (916) 208-4141 or Specifications [email protected]. Safety Equipment Electronics CLASSIC BOATS Plumbing Mechanical 25-FT CHEOY LEE VERTUE, 1956. Alameda. $12,500. #138, Laurent Giles’ www.BoatServiceLog.com masterpiece, 9000 lbs of solid craftsmanship. Copper riveted teak planking. Newer epoxy/plywood deck. Low hour 12hp Westerbeke diesel. Vertue info at 38-FT LAGOON 380, 2003. San Diego. KATADYN SURVIVOR 35 WATERMAKER website. http://vertueowners.org.uk. $249,000. (2) Yanmar 3GM30’s. Loaded ready2sail! (707) 832-6223 or casejames@ example of the most popular cruising The Survivor is a must for all sea-going vessels and fastmail.fm. cat, ever! Crazy fast downwind - sailing is the most widely used emergency desalinator. It is fl at! No “rolly” anchorages! Just returned used by the U.S. and international forces. It is able to from Florida-Caribbean-Mexico cruise. MULTIHULLS Most versatile 4-cabin version (sleeps 8, produce 4.5 liters of drinkable water per hour. These or more commonly 4 singles. Remem- are unused U.S. government surplus. ber, you can convert a cabin for storage much easier than a locker to sleeping!) Reconditioned by Katadyn $950. All the cruising “toys”: solar panels, wind Compare to factory new price: $1,995. generator, watermaker, inverter, Sirius stereo, DVD-TV, SSB w/Pactor modem, For more information or (2) Raymarine color displays w/radar, to place an order, please chartplotter & AIS. Raritan (2) electric call one of our sales reps. heads. The perfect cruiser? Perhaps. Too much to list here. Check website for more! Equipment Parts Sales www.YoungerGirl.org. (503) 320-9859 or In the U.S.: (800) 417-2279 40-FT SEARUNNER, 1979. Blaine, WA. [email protected]. Outside the U.S.: (717) 896-9110 $80,000. Among best in class. Well designed, constructed, maintained, 34-FT GEMINI 105 MC, 2001. Glen equipped. Veteran of five-year cruise Cove Marina. $120,000. Isinglass cock- 2001-2006. Refit and survey 2007. pit enclosure, full canvas covers and Sleeps six, 15 sails, 30hp diesel, radar, sunscreens, 9-ft Dux dinghy. 15hp Ya- autopilot, windvane, watermaker, SSB maha. Full electronics plus chartplotter/ radio, solar panels, wind gen, life raft, radar; Freedom 10 charger/inverter, 20” new paint. Awesome cruising boat. flatscreen TV; Sony CD. Sistership’s http://searunner40seafi re.wordpress.com. specs/pics at website. http://perfor- (360) 756-5004 or svseafire@yahoo. mancecruising.com. (415) 902-2239 or com. [email protected].

OFFSHORE PASSAGEMAKING INSTRUCTION IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC John & Amanda Neal are dedicated to providing hands-on, documented instruction aboard their Hallberg-Rassy 46 Mahina Tiare III, drawing on their combined 502,000 miles and 66 years of experience. www.mahina.com • (360) 378-6131

Going Somewhere? Mexico • Caribbean • South Paciﬁ c Stop by our ofﬁ ce and take a bundle of Latitude 38 along with you. We promise you’ll be a hero for sharing them with other cruisers! Latitude 38 • 15 Locust Ave • Mill Valley, CA • (415) 383-8200 • Open M-F 9-5

Page 168 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 CATALINA 30 PARTNERSHIP. South Beach Harbor G Dock-San Francisco $300. 2 Partners wanted for 3 time National Champion Catalina 30 to race and cruise. Partnership includes 1/4 time share on boat. No equity, $300/month and small deposit. Race Friday Nights, cruise other times, prefer experienced sailors, but would consider training new SOUTH OF THE BORDER crew until fully shook out. Please send 48-FT LOOPING, 2004. Bahia del Sol, 65-FT WOOD CLASSIC, 1939. Heavy relevant information with your request. El Salvador. $500,000. Gorgeous, fully built ex-trawler. GMC 12V-71, 21-kw [email protected] or (415) equipped high performance catamaran generator. Full electronics. Lots of equip- 314-4218. 340 Ritch Street. in excellent condition. Neos is a dream ment. Ready to go. Would make great to sail and combines maximum comfort conversion. Will consider any reasonable 1/3 J/105 PARTNERSHIP. San Francisco. with quality and simplicity. See website for offer. More pics/details: (707) 964-5423 or Great opportunity to get into a J/105! Cur- pictures and specifi cs. http://neosforsale. [email protected]. rent owners of Risk hull #196 looking for a com. [email protected]. 3rd partner. Boat is in excellent condition 43.5-FT LABELLE TRAWLER. $115,000/ for racing and cruising with all the gear asking. Sausalito outstanding view berth. to accommodate both. Professionally Volvo diesels, 500 hours, 7.5 Onan. maintained and is one of the best J/105’s CHARTER DIRECT & SAVE $$$$. Roomy glass-enclosed sundeck. Full on the Bay in terms of condition and gear Owner’s time available for discount char- canvas. Large custom galley. Master (too much gear to list). Great cruising or ter. Beautiful Moorings 4600 cat, Hope, with walkaround queen, tub + comfort- racing boat. Interested parties only: very featured in Latitude 38. Based in beautiful able guest stateroom with large bed, low fi nancing also available. (415) 297- Belize. Book direct and save big bucks. head. Excellent workmanship/condition. 0794 or [email protected]. [email protected]. Will sacrifi ce. May fi nance, rent or trade. (415) 999-5626. 1977 RANGER 33 PARTNERSHIP. SKIPPERED CHARTERS. Sea Of Cortez. Clipper, Sausalito. $7,000 1/3 equity Mini vacations, 7D/7N charters, 11 day 27-FT CORSAIR TRIMARAN, 1986. 28-FT PROTECTOR, 2001. Lake Tahoe. partnership. Ideal Bay cruising sloop. Adventure Sails with experienced skipper/ Newport Beach, CA. $45,000. 1986 Far- Beautiful center console Protector, 99% Furling main/jib. Rigged for solo. Beauti- instructor. Come discover the beauty of rier built hull #12. 2nd owner-19 years. fresh water use. Two 225-hp Yamahas, fully maintained. Congenial partners. Uni- the Sea of Cortez, explore desert islands, New Forespar mast 1993. Marine head under 400 hours. Teak sole. Rear seat, versal diesel. New transmission. Article/ swim with sea lions, sail on a real cruis- and 2nd sink. 2-12 volt battery system. GPS/chart plotter, VHF. Excellent condi- review: see web page. $133/mo for 1/3 ing sailboat. www.charter-baja.com. Wired for 120 volt hook-up. 2003 Yanmar tion and very fast. (530) 583-4000 or (530) berthing. http://latitude38.com/features/ [email protected]. electric start 9.9 O.B. 2 sets of sails and 518-8500. [email protected]. bomRanger33.htm. (925) 595-0765. spinnaker. VHF and tri-data log, autopilot, solar panel. Pop-up hatch dodger, bimini 34-FT MARINE TRADER EUROPA. J/105 FRACTIONAL OWNERSHIP. and full cockpit enclosure. Non-skid 1979. Oxbow Marina Isleton. $45,000. Alameda. $525/month. Available for day redone. New bottom paint. Excellent Highly desired Europa Sedan. Low engine sailing/club racing. ‘BoatShare by J/ galvanized 2006 Pacific trailer, new 720 hours. Upgraded electronics, new World’ manages and maintains. Loaded tires. Possible delivery. (949) 922-7173 LectraSan, marine heating and air condi- with options, immaculate condition. or (949) 646-1105 or wendellmaberry@ tioning. Upgraded refrigerator. Will email Monthly fee for full ownership privileges, gmail.com. pictures if interested. (209) 575-3182 or zero hassle. www.sailing-jworld.com/ [email protected]. boatshare_for_members.htm. (408) 218- 4370 or (650) 533-5336 or stevecrawf@ gmail.com. PLAN YOUR MEXICAN GETAWAY NOW. PARTNERSHIPS at the brand-new, gorgeous Cielo Y Mar BENETEAU 393 PARTNERSHIP. condos. Located in Punta Mita, 35 min- Sausalito. $500. Clean, well maintained utes from Puerto Vallarta, available to PARTNERSHIP-1/3 TIMESHARE. 1981 fast cruiser. Upgraded interior, winches, Catalina 30. South Beach, San Francisco. rent from private owner. On the beach, 10 prop, diesel, full electronics, classic main, feet from the water, they offer spectacular $300/month. 27hp 3GM30F Yanmar fully equipped. Qtr usage non-equity; diesel with new transmission; new main, views of ocean and mountains, the big- may consider 1/8 or equity arrangement gest infi nity pool in the area, an endless good 110 jib, wheel, recent beige leather or sale. http://marigotgroup.com/strider. interior, fresh bottom paint. TV/VCR, VHF. beach, great surf breaks, great fi shing, 35-FT WILDCAT 350, 2000. Isleton. (415) 332-4401 or (415) 331-4900 or email tremendous views of whales, bird life Exceptional condition, roomy day sailer. [email protected]. $159,000. Out of Africa, 35’x 21’ beam, South Beach Harbor slip. (415) 731-4956 and the islands. While uncrowded and Doyle sails, spinnaker, radar, 20-hp Volvo or [email protected]. tranquil, just a fi ve-minute walk to several sail drives, folding props, Spectra water- HUNTER 280 PARTNERSHIP. Non- waterfront restaurants. Choose from a maker. Boat loves Mexico, 4 staterooms, equity partner - 1/2 share $300/mo. 1996 spacious, beautifully furnished one or 1998 CATALINA 320. Sausalito. model, clean, well-maintained. Diesel, 2 heads, galley up. (916) 716-0669 or $600 month, non-equity. Looking for three-bedroom unit, or an amazing two- [email protected]. wheel, roller furling, Lazyjacks. At Bal- story penthouse with lovely shade trellis experienced, responsible sailor to split lena Isle in Alameda, quick access to the 50/50 costs and fun. Flexible use plan on the top fl oor. To reserve, call: Dona Bay. (510) 410-7221 or svbluemonday@ de Mallorca (415) 599-5012. See details: of the perfect Bay sailboat, great shape, gmail.com. POWER & HOUSEBOATS sails well, fully rigged and convenient to www.puntamitabeachfrontcondos.com. the best Bay destinations. Call evenings. PEARSON TRITON 28. Clipper Yacht MOORING FOR LEASE OR SALE. 54-FT SAGAR 16 METER BARGE, 2002. (415) 332-3814. Harbor, Sausalito. Non equity partner Central France $290,000. Custom built San Carlos, Mexico. Original Marina San wanted.$125/month. Boat in terrific Carlos mooring. Protected bay. Great lo- for all navigable waterways. 2 Brms, 2 1/3 WESTSAIL 32 PARTNERSHIP. shape, Mylar sails, sleeps four, galley, bath. Complete inventory for comfort- Berkeley. $12,000. Replace aging partner cation. Lease at $100 a month, purchase head. Yanmar 18hp inboard. Towing it for $3,000, or lease to own. We will able cruising. See website for photos and in existing partnership. New Beta Marine insurance. Bottom cleaned quarterly. complete inventory. Sagar has a two year diesel, windvane, SSB, liferaft, dinghy, make something work. Photos available. Infl atable raft. Depth fi nder. Spinnakers. [email protected]. waiting list for new build. Owner fi nancing. Berkeley marina dock-end slip. $12,000 (510) 735-6953 or (415) 459-7417 or http://web.me.com/cbroussard/Acadia/ equity and $200/month for slip and up- [email protected]. Welcome.html. [email protected]. keep. [email protected].

Yacht Delivery MULTIHULL YACHT DESIGNER • MARINE SURVEYOR Professional and Reliable - USCG Masters, 100-ton Power & Sail John R. Marples, CMS • Certifi ed, National Association of Marine Surveyors Worldwide Experience and Availability - Pacifi c & Mexico Specialists Multihull Design Specialist • Pleasure and Commercial Get a fl at-rate quote = No surprises, Reasonable prices Design offi ce for Jim Brown Searunner, Seaclipper & Constant Camber Multihulls [email protected] • (925) 787-6893 www.searunner.com • (707) 343-1378 • [email protected] Get the Reliable, Powerful Wheel Pilot Quiet & Dependable • Affordable • Built for Immersion boat bottom scrubbing & more . . . Easy Owner Installation • Low Power Consumption 831-687-0541 www.cptautopilot.com 415.331.7215 [email protected] www.gotzinc.com

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 169 VALLARTA CATAMARAN CHARTER. WINCHES FOR SALE SAN RAFAEL. Puerto Vallarta. Low season rates! Come $1,800/pair. Lewmar 55, three-speed sail with us on famous HumuHumu in winches in very good condition, pow- perfect Banderas Bay conditions. Full day, erful and smooth. (415) 847-7270 or long weekend or Costa Alegre Discovery [email protected]. Cruise. Vallarta has it all! www.riviera- sailingcharters.com. (760) 681-7825 or 74-FT MAST. Designed for catamaran. (760) 975-5850 or humuhumucaptain@ Best offer. (415) 269-5165. hotmail.com.

TRADE

SAILING MONTEREY. Trade for boat Save Your Aft! work and/or slip. Monterey. $Negotiable. Using one of our 1500+ patterns or your Trade sailing with or w/o lessons. Creal- ock 37 in Monterey for boat work and/or own pattern, let our craftsmen create a slip fees. [email protected]. comfortable, durable, and stylish set of all-weather cushions for your cockpit. 25-FT CHEOY LEE FOR CABIN CRUISER. WINDLASS/DINGHY. S e a t t l e . $1,995-windlass / $2,195-dinghy. Max- Find your custom, closed cell foam South Beach - San Francisco. I would like to trade my 1962 Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer well Liberty 2500 Vertical 3/8 chain/ cushions at www.bottomsiders.com! (teak hull) for a cabin cruiser in the 28- to rope dual direction. Like new. Price new 31-ft range. (415) 734-0929 or mmejstrik@ $3,650, now $1,995. Boss Boat Yachts- yahoo.com. man 10.4” fiberglass dinghy locking lockers, running lights. Now made by rigidboats.com. New $5,500, now $2,195. WANTED www.rigidboats.com. (206) 890-3325 or [email protected]. BottomSiders Call Toll Free: (800) 438-0633 TRAILER FOR OLSON 30 OR LIKE. OUTBOARDS. Johnson OB extra long 2305 Bay Avenue [email protected] (30’, 5’ draft, 4000#). Please email Fax: 360-533-4474 shaft, 2-cylinder, 2-stroke 4hp. Needs Hoquiam, WA 98550 description and photo or leave voice work, have some parts. Certifi ed com- message. (831) 427-3032 or redsquid5@ pression; $225. Evinrude 15hp in VGC; yahoo.com. $950. Briggs & Stratton 4-stroke 5hp in VGC. Fresh water cooling system; $495/ TRAILER FOR RHODES 19. Looking for obo. (707) 459-5015. a trailer for an R19 or similar capability We care about sail care! (19-20-ft, 2000 #GVW. 39” draft). Please leave voicemail message or email with a pic of the trailer. Thanks! (916) 455-7650 MISCELLANEOUS or [email protected]. SATELLITE PHONE $1,500/OBO. Iridium 9555 Model. Brand new, never used. GEAR Iridium Travelers Package includes: 2 batteries, AC travel charger, DC charger, magnet mount antenna, antenna adapter, CRUISING GEAR FOR SALE. 35lb CQR hands-free earpiece, holster, water-proof anchor with 100ft ht chain and 200ft case, solar charger, manual and SIM card. rode, 3yrs old; $500. 8-ft Achilles air Also included: 500 pre-paid minutes fl oor infl atable 3yrs old; $750. Tohatsu already on SIM card. Just purchased for San Francisco Service 6hp, 4 stroke outboard 3yrs old; $750. 773 Andersen Drive, San Rafael, CA 94901 $1750 + the 500 pre-paid minutes. Ask- Avon 4-man liferaft, needs repacking, 10 ing $1500 or best offer. Contact Barbara T: 415-453-2142 M: 510-333-4644 Faster by Design years old; $800. Icom 706 MKII SSB and Elenteny. (510) 502-3475. Hours: 8-5 M-F, Sat. by appointment www.northsails.com VHF, works on marine bands; $500. SGC antenna tuner for marine use, works well Sail Care n Sail CoverS n YaCht CoverS n FlagS n CruiSing ProduCtS SJ 28 MAINSAIL WANTED. Flathead with Icom 706; $300. (415) 541-4947 or Lake, Montana. San Juan 28 in Montana [email protected]. needs mainsail. Could have friends pick sail up in either the Puget Sound or S.F. Marine Diesel Specialists VOLVO PENTA 28 HP DIESEL ENGINE. Bay areas. Please call to talk about pric- San Rafael $2,500. Used, clean (no cor- ing. (406) 471-2473 or lyman@montana. rosion/rust) Volvo 3-cylinder, series 2003 com. AT YOUR SLIP! engine with low hours. Transmission included too. Can hear it run before purchase. Price is fi rm. Can deliver if needed. Serious only. (720) 579-2547.

NAPA VALLEY RIVERFRONT HOME IN SPECIAL & UNIQUE COMMUNITY with deep water & 40’ dock. 3 Bedrooms/3 baths, beautifully remodeled kitchen, 2-car garage, bonus/game room, spectacular & unparalleled views! $699,000 Aida Morgan @ Coldwell Banker Brokers Of The Valley • (707) 337-9813 30 years experience • Universal/Westerbeke dealers LIVE YOUR OREGON COASTAL DREAM! Repairs/Tune-ups all models • Engine Surveys, Instruction with this thriving, well established marine supply business for consignment items, specialty orders & retail boat supplies. Turn-key operation with great BAY MARINE DIESEL 510-435-8870 customer base and active internet store. In the Port of Brookings Harbor. [email protected] $150,000 plus inventory • 888-412-8424 • #10025403

Page 170 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 40 FOOT SUBLEASE AT PIER 39. San CLUBS & MEMBERSHIPS Francisco, California. $6,500. I need to sell this beautiful slip sublease, which SINGLE SKIPPERS AND CREW. looks up at Telegraph Hill. It is 40 x 14 of all abilities are invited to join the Single and includes $6/day parking at the Pier 39 Sailors Association. Membership includes garage. (602) 999-0016 or sally.woelfel@ daysailing, raft-ups, invaluable onboard asu.edu. training, social events. Meetings held 2nd Thursday, Ballena Bay Yacht Club, www. 50-FT PRIME SLIP PIER 39, SF. $46,000. bbyc.org. Social; 6:30 pm. Meeting; 7:30 F-Dock, Slip 11, east side. Protected from pm. Guests welcome. www.singlesailors. wind. Close to gangway, showers and 10 Amps, 12 Volts @ 15kts org. (510) 233-1064. marina offi ce. Covered parking across Kit includes D400, street with special rates for owners. POINT SAN PABLO YC. is seeking new [email protected] or (559) regulator, diversion members - initiation fee suspended! Open 355-6572. house and free BBQ scheduled the 2nd load and brake switch. Saturday of June, July and August. We’re located at 700 W. Cutting Boulevard, PROPERTY SALE/RENT More Watts Per Dollar www.semarine.com Point Richmond, next to KKMI. Drive or sail over any weekend and tour our full and Quiet Too! 800 487 0610 galley, bar, slips, workshop and other facilities. The club owns the property, and member costs are reasonable. Visit our website www.pspyc.org or call Letty, our membership chair. (916) 595-7287. Mathiesen Marine NAUTICAL FLEA MARKET. Sunday, May 16, 2010. Elkhorn Yacht Club’s For all of your electronics and electrical needs World Famous Nautical Flea Market. 2370 Highway 1, Moss Landing. Booths are $25 Sales & Installation of all major brands AFFORDABLE LIVING IN TONGA. for 50% or more nautical gear, $30 for all of marine electronics others. Come early. Breakfast Burritos- Private island ocean-view lots. US $3,850. BBQ-Music-Beer-FUN. (831) 724-3875 each, in South Pacifi c. Escape congested, or [email protected]. overpriced Marin County (or equivalent); Electrical system Troubleshooting live off the 6.75% savings account interest & Repair to ABYC Standards AEOLIAN YACHT CLUB. Reasonably in housing price differential on ocean- priced berths/slips available. Looking for view property in this South Pacifi c Island Corrosion issues, Inverters, Battery banks active sailing members. Berths available Paradise. www.tongaislandproperties. for up to 38 ft at low cost. www.aeolianyc. com. [email protected] or PC & Mac based navigation systems com/membershipapplication.htm. (510) (619) 347-2294. 523-2586. 3300 Powell Street, Emeryville CREW NON-PROFIT (510) 350-6622 www.MathiesenMarine.com EXPERIENCED CIRCUMNAVIGATOR. MARIN POWER & SAIL SQUADRON. - schooner - seeks select crew from 50 years offering tuition-free safe boat- Mediterranean to So. Africa. Legs: (1) ing classes, USCG approved. The next Turkey-Greece-Italy-Sardinia-Corsica (2) Corsica-France-Spain-Morocco-Gibraltar Vessel Electric America’s Boating Classes will be held on May 4, 6, 11, 13, 18 and 20. Final exam is (3) Gibraltar-Canaries-Brazil (4) Brazil- on May 25. Classes and fi nal exam meet Tristan da Cunha-So. Africa. Legs are 4-6 Mobile marine navigation installations at 7-9 pm, at the same location, the Cal weeks, Sept. 2010 to Feb. 2011. Must Education Center, 789 North Hamilton participate fully and share expenses. Call and marine electrical work Parkway, Novato. Textbook $40. For Mike Johnson (505) 466-6326 or email registration and information, call (415) Claire at [email protected]. • Class A, Class B AIS systems and digital TVs 924-2712. J/105 WHISPER LOOKING FOR CREW. • Raymarine® warranty dealer and certifi ed installer San Francisco Marina. J/105 Whisper is about to start racing season. Doing • NMEA-certifi ed Marine Electronics Installer • Insured BERTHS & SLIPS all class events and Friday Night Beer Can races. Have several rotating spots Milltech Marine AIS available. Racing experience only please. OWN YOUR OWN 50’ SLIP! Emery Cove Marc Vayn. (650) 534-6742 or marcvayn@ Yacht Harbor. $73,500. Fee simple own- gmail.com. Brian Theobald • (415) 424-2204 ership means tax advantages. Not long term lease like other marinas. Best kept [email protected] marina and prime location, Emeryville. JOB OPPORTUNITIES 50’x 15’ UPWIND. Liveaboard possible. Lowest price 50’ available. (510) 910-0062 or [email protected]. 6-PAK CAPTAINS &. Sailing Instructors. Spinnaker Sailing in SF, is hiring F/T or We are always P/T aboard our fl eet of 22 to 90-ft sailing yachts. Mid-week and weekend work looking out for you! available, fl exible schedule. Fax resume American Yacht Insurance for boats over to (415) 543-7405, or call. (415) 543-7333 26 feet. We provide cover for any fl ag or [email protected]. Germany • Great Britain • Monaco registration or Denmark • Austria • Spain • Croatia SAILING INSTRUCTORS WANTED. navigation. Sweden • USA* Sausalito. Award winning sailing school, 500 Mamaroneck Avenue Suite 318 Club Nautique, is seeking friendly instruc- Harrison, NY 10528 tors with solid boating and people skills Phone (914) 381-2066 DELTA, 65’ DOCK FOR LEASE OR SALE. for part-time teaching, specifi cally in our Three Mile Slough. $300 per month. Sausalito location. We have the newest Newport Shipyard 7 miles from Antioch Bridge, Sherman fleet on the Bay and the most active One Washington Street Island. Secured 65 ft. dock. Plenty of Coastal Program in the nation. Advance Newport, RI 02840 parking. 1/2 mile from Three Mile Slough your skills, work with professional staff Phone (401) 619-1499 Bridge. Deep water! (916) 777-5897 or and have fun on the water. Includes boat www.pantaenius.com [email protected]. use privileges and membership benefi ts. *Pantaenius America Ltd. is a licensed insurance agent licensed Licensed captains call: (800) 343-7245 or in all 50 states. It is an independent corporation incorporated under the laws of New York and is a separate and distinct entity email [email protected]. from any entity of the Pantaenius Group. USA09037 www.hqhh.de

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 171 DIESEL FUEL COMPUTERCOMPUTER ABOARD?ABOARD? FILTERING CAPN & Digital Charts AIS WiFi Cellular Amps Purify Diesel Fuel & Flush Tanks SatPhones: Iridium & Globalstar Process scrubs, polishes, removes algae, dirt, sludge, rust, water, HF SSB Radio & Pactor Modems and foreign particles from diesel fuel. Includes internal tank washdown. Save your injectors, costly engine repair and down time. Wireless E-mail Since 1989. Fully insured. Your berth or boat yard. TM SEATECH SYSTEMS (510) 521-6797 Fax: (510) 521-3309 800.444.2581 281.334.1174 [email protected] www.sea-tech.com www.dieselfuelfilterings.com Call for Info on SeaTech Packages and CAPN Demo Disk CallCall forfor InfoInfo onon SeaTechSeaTech PackagesPackages andand CAPNCAPN DemoDemo DiskDisk

Worldwide Marine Forecasts PARTS Cruising, Racing & Commercial YANMAR • UNIVERSAL • WESTERBEKE Packages Starting at $65.00 USD PERKINS • ISUZU • PATHFINDER • ATOMIC 4 SERVICE DIESEL ENGINES (866) 882-WXGY (9949) toll free 970 N Kalaheo Ave (808) 291-WXGY (Mobile) Suite C-104 (808) 254-2525 (Office) Kailua, Hawaii 96734 Barbara Campbell (808) 443-0889 (Fax) [email protected] 351 EMBARCADERO www.weatherguy.com OAKLAND, CA 94606 (510) 465-1093 ADVERTISERS' INDEX

247Sailing.net/SV Simpatica Boat Yard at Grand Marina, Doyle Sails ...... 47 Helmut’s Marine Service .....164 List Marine Enterprises ...... 103 ...... 140 The ...... 13 e Marine Systems ...... 168 Heritage Marine Insurance ...66 Loch Lomond Marina ...... 102 AB Marine ...... 52 Bottom Siders ...... 170 Easom Rigging ...... 112 Hidden Harbor Marina ...... 125 Lowrie Yacht Harbor ...... 79 Afterguard Sailing Assoc. ....140 Brion Toss Yacht Riggers...... 132 Emery Cove Yacht Harbor .....65 Hogin Sails ...... 38 Lunasea Lighting ...... 71 Almar Marinas ...... 97 Brisbane Marina ...... 75 Emeryville Marina...... 133 Hood Sails ...... 33 Mack Sails ...... 66 Alpenglow Marine Lights ....175 BVI Yacht Charters ...... 138 Equipment Parts Sales ...... 168 Hotel Coral & Marina ...... 58 Makela Boatworks ...... 174 Aqua Marine ...... 143 Charter Catamaran Turkey .140 Essex Credit Corp...... 48 Hotwire Enterprises ...... 166 Marina Bay Yacht Harbor ...... 49 Bacon Sails & Marine City Yachts ...... 11 Farallone Yacht Sales ...... 7 Hunter Marine ...... 27 Marina de la Paz ...... 168 Supplies ...... 72 Clipper Yacht Harbor ...... 175 Farallones Marine Sanctuary Hydrovane ...... 77 Marina El Cid ...... 160 Bair Island Marina ...... 121 Club Nautique ...... 73,119 Association ...... 25 Interlux Yacht Finishes ...... 31 Marina Mazatlan ...... 57 Bay Area Boat Works ...... 30 Coast Marine ...... 125 Flying Cloud Yachts ...... 176 Islander 36 Fleet ...... 64 Marina Puesta Del Sol ...... 161 Bay Island Yachts ...... 6 Conch Charters ...... 139 Forespar ...... 106,107 Jessie et Laurent ...... 67 Marina Riviera Nayarit...... 53 Bay Marine Boatworks .....39,59 Corinthian Yacht Club ...... 62 Fortman Marina ...... 56 Johnson-Hicks ...... 72 Marina Village ...... 23 Bay Marine Diesel ...... 170 Cover Craft ...... 113 Garhauer Marine ...... 37 Just4Boats.com ...... 32 Marine Boat Solutions ...... 168 Bellhaven Yacht Sales & Coyote Point Marina ...... 29 Gentry’s Kona Marina ...... 164 Kissinger Canvas ...... 70 Marine Engine Company ....142 Charters ...... 141 Cruising Yachts ...... 9 Gianola Canvas Products ....160 KKMI - Brokerage ...... 177 Marine Lube ...... 174 Berkeley Marina ...... 55 CYOA Yacht Charters ...... 139 Golden State Diesel KKMI - Full Service Marine Outboard Co...... 158 Berkeley Marine Center ...... 35 Defender Industries ...... 64 Marine ...... 172 Boatyard ...... 180 Mariner’s General Insurance . 54 Beta Marine Engines...... 76 Dept. of Boating & Waterways Grand Marina ...... 2 Landing School, The ...... 63 Maritime Institute ...... 174 Blue Pelican ...... 170 ...... 41 Hansen Rigging ...... 77 Larry R. Mayne Yacht & Ship Marotta Yachts ...... 178 Blue Water Yacht Insurance ..16 DeWitt Studio ...... 173 Harbor Island West Marina..157 Broker ...... 61 Martyr Anodes ...... 74 Bluewater Network ...... 175 Diesel Fuel Filtering ...... 172 Harken ...... 34 Lee Sails ...... 164 Mason Yachts ...... 175 Boat US ...... 69 Dockwise Yacht Transport ...117 Helms Yacht & Ship Brokers/ Lewmar Marine ...... 10 Master Mariners Benevolent Boat US Insurance ...... 156 Downwind Marine ...... 159 West Coast Multihulls ...... 175 Lifeline Batteries ...... 120 Association ...... 65

Page 172 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 jim

WATERCOLOR INTENSIVE WORKSHOP with Jim DeWitt May 17-21

Call Pam for details! (510) 206-0720

DeWitt Art Gallery & Framing 121 Park Place, Point Richmond, CA 94801 (510) 236-1401 ❧ (800) 758-4291 www.jimdewitt.com • www.dewittgalleryandframing.com Tuesday-Saturday 11:00-7:00 • Sunday 9:30-5:30

– cont'd

Mathiesen Marine ...... 171 Outboard Motor Shop ...... 71 Ryan’s Marine ...... 158 Spinnaker Yacht Club ...... 142 Ullman Sails ...... 58 Mazatlan Marine Center/ Owl Harbor ...... 118 Sail California ...... 14,15 Starbuck Canvas ...... 60 Vallejo Marina ...... 134 La Paz Yachts ...... 19 Oyster Cove Marina ...... 124 Sail NW ...... 141 Summer Sailstice - Treasure Variprop USA ...... 79 McDermot Costa Oyster Point Marina ...... 154 Sail the Bay ...... 140 Island ...... 42 Ventura Harbor Boatyard ....143 Insurance ...... 63 Pacifi c Crest Canvas ...... 69 Sail Warehouse, The ...... 161 Svendsen’s Boat Works ...... 125 Vessel Electric ...... 171 McGinnis Insurance ...... 78 Pacifi c Yacht Imports ...... 63 Sailrite Kits ...... 8 Svendsen’s Rig Shop ...... 21 Voyager Marine ...... 142 Mettec, Inc...... 75 Pantaenius America, Inc. ....171 Sal’s Infl atable Services ...... 77 Swedish Marine ...... 60 weatherguy.com ...... 172 Milltech Marine Inc...... 50 Pasha Hawaii ...... 96 San Francisco Boat Works .....79 Tacktick ...... 67 Wedlock, Ramsay & Whiting Minney’s Yacht Surplus ...... 78 Passage Yachts ...... 5 San Juan Sailing...... 141 Tahoe Yacht Club ...... 132 Marine Surveyors ...... 164 Modern Sailing School & Peninsula Yacht Club ...... 166 Scanmar International ...... 65 The Dinghy Doctor ...... 121 West Marine ...... 22,24,26,28 Club...... 103 Peter Crane Yacht Sales ...... 176 Schaefer Marine ...... 73 TMM/Tortola Marine West Marine - Rigging ...... 103 Napa Valley Marina ...... 20 Pettit Paint ...... 51 Schooners North:: Spike Management...... 138 Westpoint Harbor ...... 40 New Found Metals ...... 62 Pier 39 Marina ...... 36 Africa ...... 143 Tradewinds Sailing ...... 121 Westwind Precision Details ...45 Norpac Yachts ...... 179 Pineapple Sails ...... 3 Schoonmaker Pt. Marina ....135 Trident Funding ...... 4 Whale Point Marine Supply ...12 Norstar Boats/Norstar 40 .....71 Punta Mita Beachfront Sea Frost ...... 68 Twin Rivers Marine White, Chris Designs ...... 166 North Beach Marine Canvas Condos ...... 174 Seashine ...... 76 Insurance ...... 46 Wichard, Inc...... 18 ...... 45 Quantum Pacifi c ...... 17 Seatech ...... 172 UK-Halsey Sails ...... 134 Yachtfi nders/Windseakers .....19 North Direct Sails ...... 74 Quickline ...... 68 Seaworthy Goods ...... 166 North Sails ...... 170 R-Parts ...... 158 Shadetree Fabric Shelter ...... 70 Don't forget to tell 'em North Sails - San Francisco . 113 Raiatea Carenage Society of Accredited Marine Latitude sent you! Oceanic Yacht Sales ...... 176 Services ...... 155 Surveyors/SAMS ...... 154 Opequimar Marine Richardson Bay Marina ...... 113 South Beach Harbor ...... 44 Center ...... 161 Rodgers & Assoc...... 158 South Beach Riggers ...... 45 Orange Coast College ...... 43 Rooster Sails ...... 75 Southeast Marine Services . . 171

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 173 JUST YOU AND THE SEA…

…and the jacuzzi, the 80-ft long pool, the surf, the Punta Mita anchorage, and the 4-mile distant Tres Marietas Islands

Punta Mita Beachfront Condos Call now for winter reservations! 1.415.599.5012 www.puntamitabeachfrontcondos.com

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s Our NEXT n' SAN RAFAEL Class begins July 5th

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MAKELA BOATWORKS Family owned since 1948 Wooden Boat Building • Repair and Restoration 19280 South Harbor Drive • Fort Bragg, CA 95437 (707) 964-3963 email: [email protected] • www.Makelaboatworks.com Latitude 38 Photo Boat Crossing!

Page 174 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 45-ft C&L EXPLORER MULTIHULLS Beautiful Stan Huntingford designed, center-cockpit, bluewater cruiser.

Mason Yachts International www.masonyachts.com • (310) 577-8070 Memento vivere… SEAWIND 1160

NEW LISTING

Tax Deduction PDQ 32 ALTAIR PROUT 33CS CATAMARAN Large cruising space in a compact New diesel. size. Two boats for sale. $69,000

GEMINI 105M Loaded with all of the extras. Ultra clean. Ready to be enjoyed. $129,000

36’ SEAWIND 1000XL, 2001 Two brokerage Seawinds on the West Coast! Well rigged, excellent comfort Hand Crafted, High-Effi ciency Area Light and performance. LED Swivel Reading Light in Chrome or Titanium Finish Two from $179,000 Alpenglow Lights use the latest compact fl uorescent and LED technology for unmatched effi ciency and light quality. The attractive wood fi xture is available in different wood choices. Dual power allows choice of bright light or gentle glow, and two levels of red. Prismatic lens designed for wide- angle illumination. Website provides helpful information on selecting cabin lighting.

Alpenglow Lights, LLC, P. O. Box 415, Eureka, MT 59917 [email protected] · www.alpenglowlights.com

CORSAIR SPRINT 750 31’ CORSAIR, 2003 "YOUR DESTINATION FOR A 2 starting at $52,500. $119,000. FULL SERVICE MARINA" Corsair F-27s from $39,900. Also new Dash 750 $59,000

800 SLIPS 20-60 FT NEW LISTING • Salty's Bait & Tackle • Private Restrooms YACHT SALES INC. • Sport Fishing and Showers • Restaurant • West Marine • Dry Storage • Launch Ramp • KKMI Boat Yard Dealer for Seawind Catamarans Available • Pump Out coming soon and Corsair Trimarans • Fuel Dock • Laundry Facility • Guest Slips Available www.helmsyacht.com CORSAIR 28CC, 2005 310 Harbor Drive, Sausalito, CA 94965 (510) 865-2511 $89,900 (415) 332-3500 • www.clipperyacht.com

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 175 Sail · BROKERS · Power 6400 Marina Drive www.yachtworld.com/fcyachts Phone (562) 594-9716 Long Beach, CA 90803 ﬂ [email protected] Fax (562) 594-0710

MAKE OFFER MAKE OFFER

SISTERSHIP 31' & 36' MARINERS Inquire 47' GILS CATAMARAN, '02 $395,000 36' PEARSON, '85 $49,500 44' HARDIN KETCH Nice/Offers

VERY NICE REDUCED

SISTERSHIP SISTERSHIP 36' HUNTER, '05 $124,900 36' ISLANDER, '78 $42,500 48' MARINER, '81 $125,000 38' HANS CHRISTIAN, '86 $149,500

MEGA upgrades REDUCED

IRWIN 42, '77 $69,500 57' BOWMAN, '78 $179,000 GEMINI 105Mc, 3 from $110,000 42' CATALINA, '93 $118,000 APPROX. 100 LISTINGS ON OUR WEB SITE: www.flyingcloudyachts.com

SYDNEY 36CR, 2006 Encore is arguably the best set up and most competitive Syd- ney 36CR ever built; high-tech construction and performance yet with a fully functionable cruising interior. Custom rigging by Scott Easom. Extensive sail inventory: high performance Doyle cruising and North 3DL racing sails, all lightly used. Raced spar- ingly in 2007, stored in ‘08 and ’09; competitive at IRC, IMS, or PHRF events. Fractional rig, asymmetrical spinnaker and removable carbon ﬁ ber bowsprit ensure competitive racing at all levels with a small crew and minimal effort. Wins include events at Big Boat Series and CYC Midwinters. $249,000/offers

308 Harbor Drive, Sausalito John Baier ofﬁ ce (415) 331-0533 www.oceanicyachts.com cell (415) 377-0866

Page 176 • Latitude 38 • May, 2010 LIST WITH US! Ask us about our Maritime Protection Program to ﬁ nd out (510) 236-6633 • fax: (510) 231-2355 what a warranty can [email protected] • www. kkmi.com do for the sale of your yacht! 530 W. Cutting Blvd., Pt. Richmond, CA 94804

REDUCED

Hinckley Bermuda 40 MkII Yawl CB (1968) Nelson Marek Custom Little Harbor 51 (1996) Bill Tripp design B-40 is highly regarded for A 92-ft aluminum world cruiser. Very comfortable Ted Hood designed pilot- her classic beauty, superb workmanship and Recently repowered. Immaculate house with full stand-up headroom and 360° many quality details. New sails, dodger, intel- throughout and in perfect condition. visibility. Set up for shorthanded sailing and ligently updated. Excellent condition. $1,500,000 superbly maintained by an experienced owner. Asking $160,000 Asking $619,000

REDUCED

Swan 45 (2003) Swan 40 (1996) Santa Cruz 52 (1993) Race or cruise. Rancho Deluxe won her class Frers design, exceptionally well main- Beautiful, fast cruiser, set up for short- in the TransPac and was second twice in the tained, 2-cabin performance cruiser. handed sailing. Maintained to very high Big Boat Series. This boat has all the gear to Awlgrip Flag Blue hull, comprehensive sail standards, the hull has been repainted in go cruising and is in perfect condition. inventory, and full in-slip cover. stunning red with new bottom paint. $625,000 Asking $299,000 Asking $490,000

SOLD

DeVries 86’ Motor Vessel (1949/1999) Jarvis Newman 36 (1978) Beneteau First 40.7 (2001) ‘Elegant’, ‘Exceptional’, ‘Exquisite’ are just Classic ﬂ ybridge ‘lobster boat’ of Maine White Dove won the 2008 a few words that easily characterize this build quality. Single engine (160 hours), West Coast IRC Championship vessel. MV Far Niente clearly deﬁ nes the queen V-berth with enclosed head. Excellent and is in top condition. term ‘Classic Motor Yacht’. condition, well maintained and lightly used. Asking $1,950,000 Asking $139,000

May, 2010 • Latitude 38 • Page 177 Marotta Yachts of Sausalito Brokers of Fine Sail and Motor Yachts 415-331-6200 • [email protected] • www.marottayachts.com