Port Aux Basques to Ferryland Head

nboard the Matthew in Bristol England, May 1996. From left to right, Pat Barron Jr, Captain David Alan-Wil- liams, Laurel Alan-Williams, and Cynthia Layden-Barron Photo: Charles Leggatt

hoy and welcome to the first edition of ‘Round the Bay, Cruising and Labrador! AWe invite you to experience 10,000 nautical miles of coastline consisting of fjord like inlets, bays and coves. Enjoy meeting our people, with a strong maritime history, by sailing into our scenic commu- nities. Visit our resettled outports with buildings dating back hundreds of years. Cruise the Basque Coast, the French Shore, the Kittiwake coast or the Cape Shore where you’ll see Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve seabird sanctuary.

Newfoundland’s marine and navigational history dates the Southwest corner of Newfoundland and follows the back to 986AD when the Norse of Greenland visited coast in a counter clockwise course around the Island our waters. In the 1400’s European explorers began and Labrador. This format can be used with the Cana- searching for a passage to the east, navigating into dian Sailing Directions for Newfoundland, Labrador new lands. Newfoundland, the Atlantic Oceans gate- and the Gulf Region. You can also use this guide in way to North America was discovered by Giovanni conjunction with the 1997 Travel Guide for Newfound- Caboto in 1497. In 1997 the province of Newfound- land and Labrador that provides information based on land and Labrador will celebrate 500 years of heritage the provincial tourism trails. This guide highlights and culture through the Cabot 500 Celebrations. these trails in the text, for easy reference. The natural scenic beauty of coastal Newfoundland This 1997 issue of ‘Round the Bay, Cruising with its abundance of icebergs, whales and bird sanc- Newfoundland and Labrador is our first so we wel- tuaries, is a sailors delight. While sailing our waters you come your comments to ensure we meet your needs can remain well away from crowded harbours or pull in the next edition. into one of our unique coastal communities and enjoy While experiencing the richness of our history and en- our hospitality. joying its diversity, remember to leave only your thanks We have tried to create a useful guide that answers and take only photographs. Each of us bears the re- practical essential questions. The intent of this guide is sponsibility of ensuring that it is preserved for genera- to provide the pleasure boater with a list of services tions to come. available in our Small Craft Harbours and Marinas.

Round the Bay, Cruising Newfoundland and Thanks and Happy Cruising Labrador is not to be used for navigational purposes. hoto: Department of Tourism, Culture and Recre- We recommend you use the Canadian Hydrographic ation Service Charts and the Canadian Sailing Directions for navigating. ‘Round the Bay, begins its journey on

Newfoundland & Labrador, 1 Canada NEWFOUNDLAND and LABRADOR

Nottobeusedfornavigation Maps supplied by Nautical Data International Inc.

LABRADOR Battle Harbour LabradorCoast

Red Bay L'Anse Diable Cape Bauld QUÉBEC L'Anse-aux-Loup St Anthony Capstan Point

Englee Cape Bonavista Port au Choix to Ca pe Ba uld

La Scie Cow Head Jackson's Arm White Bay Cape St. John Notre Dame Twillingate Fogo Island Rocky Harbour Bay Little Seldom Norris Point Woody Point Triton Moreton's Lomond Harbour

Lewisporte Cape Freels Capstan Point Cabot Is Wesleyville to Ca pe Ra y Botwood

Bay of Islands Yacht Club near Bonavista Corner Brook Bay Cape Bonavista Bonavista Stephenville Salton's Brook Catalina St George's Bay NEWFOUNDLAND Port Blandford Trinity Petley Old Clarenville Perlican Bay de Verde Heart's Cape Anguille Content TrinityHarbour Bay Cape St Francis Arnold's Cove Cape Ray Burgeo Grace St. John's Francois Hermitage ConceptionRNYC Bay Long Cove Brigus Cape Spear Channel-Port aux Basques Isles aux Morts Long Harbour Holyrood CABOT S T RAIT Ramea Island Harbour Breton AVALON Argentia PENINSULA Bay Bulls Fortune Bay Marystown Placentia Grand BURGEO Fortune Cape North ÎLE Burin BANK MIQUELON Bank (France) Fermeuse St. Lawrence Cape St. Pierre Placentia Bay St Mary's Trepassey Ingonish I Port Aux Ba sque Île Sainte-Pierre Ferryla nd Hea d to Fe rryla nd He a d (France) Cape Race Ferryla nd Hea d to Ca pe Bona vista

4 'Round the Bay, 1997 Whats inside ...

The Regions... Port aux Basques to Ferryland Head...... 11

South Coast from Port aux Basques to Francois ..11 All rights Reserved and Copyright Registered in 1997. Port aux Basques, Isle aux Morts, Burgeo, Ramea, Publisher & Sales . . . . Pat Barron Jr., Francois...... Cantick Quoin Marketing Inc. Managing Editor. . . . . Cynthia Layden-Barron South Coast from Hermitage Bay to Fortune Bay . 14 Design & Layout . . . . Designer Mice Hermitage, Harbour Breton, Grand Bank, Writers ...... Dave Murphy, Sandy Newton Fortune, St. Pierre...... Cynthia Layden-Barron Artist ...... Vonnie Barron Cantick Quoin Marketing Inc., Ferryland Head to Cape Bonavista ...... 17 P.O. Box 471, Topsail, NF, Canada, A0A 3Y0 Placentia Bay ...... 17 Phone: 709-781-0064, Fax: 709-781-1997 E-Mail: [email protected] St. Lawrence, Burin, Marystown, Arnold’s Cove, www.netfx.iom.net/roundthebay Long Harbour, Argentia, Placentia/Jerseyside. Designer Mice, Trepassey Bay to Cape St. Francis ...... 22 c/o Box 2045, Manuels, NF, Canada, A1W 1C8 Trepassey, Fermeuse, Bay Bulls, St. John’s. Phone: 709-834-2461, Fax: 709-834-7158 [email protected] Conception Bay ...... 29 Published by Cantick Quoin Marketing Inc. Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club, Holyrood, Brigus, Harbour Grace, Bay de Verde. Trinity Bay ...... 34 Old Perlican, Heart’s Content, Long Cove, Petley, Clarenville, Trinity, Catalina.

Cape Bonavista to Cape Bauld ...... 43 Cabot 500 Features Bonavista Bay ...... 43 Air Canada/Air Nova/TravelQuest Regatta...... 27 Bonavista, Port Blandford, Salton’s Brook, Newfoundland Flotilla ‘97 ...... 27 Wesleyville. An Interview with Matthew Notre Dame Bay ...... 47 Captain D. Alan-Williams ...... 36 American Sailing Fleet ...... 39 Little Seldom- Fogo Island, Twillingate, Moreton’s Harbour, Lewisporte, Botwood, Triton White Bay...... 48 La Scie, Jackson’s Arm, Englee, St. Anthony. Useful Information Labrador Coast ...... 53 L’ Anse au Loup, L’ Anse au Diable, Red Bay, CCG Sail Plan...... 16 Battle Harbour. Beaufort Wind Scale ...... 55 Marine Communication Traffic Services Map Capstan Point to Cape Ray ...... 57 (VHF, MF, Navtex approximate ranges)) . . . . . 63 International Sea Ice Egg Code & Nomenclature ...... 64 Life Cycle of an Iceberg ...... 65 Marine Weather Forecast Zones...... 66 Seabirds, Seals, Dolphins and Whales of Newfoundland and Labrador ...... 67 Index of Small Craft Harbours & Marine Service Centers ...... 72 Advertisers ...... 72

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada 5 The Icons and their interpretation...

Harbour Name Harbour Name Contact Name Name and address for more Address, Community, Postal Code information or reservations Telephone: (709) 000-0000

Airport

Icons appear only if service is available Aerial photograph of the harbour $ if available

Dates Open

Icons that require more Gas Availablity Notes: Nearest Service Centres information Maximum and other pertinent information. Space for information not Tonnage covered by the icons VHF Channels Accommodation Showers Hospital Chart Numbers Chart numbers

Marine Icon Symbols and their meanings

Slip Available Water Hookup Dates Open

Mooring Available Drinking Water Gasdocks

Vacant Moorings Ice Travel Lift / Haulout Maximum Tonnage

Pump Out Propane Bank VHF Monitored

Slipway cradle Restaurant$ Instant Teller Accommodations

Repair Yard Groceries Laundry Showers

Power Hookup Liquor Store* Taxi Hospital

Post Office Chart Numbers Airport

* Beer can be purchased at most convenience stores and gas stations in Newfoundland & Labrador

8 'Round the Bay, 1997 Port aux Basques to Ferryland Head

South Coast from Port aux Basque to Ferryland Head Burgeo Port aux Basques to Francois Cape Ray Isle aux Morts Francois Channel-Port Hermitage Since the earliest days of French aux Basques Ramea Harbour Breton and English discoveries, commerce Fortune Bay Cabot Strait Fortune Grand and wars, the communities along this ÎLE Bank MIQUELON leg have survived, died and revived (France) Ferryland again. Because these communities Île Sainte-Pierre St. Pierre (France) Head were not as affected by ice as were Not to be used for navigation other parts of the island, the people Maps supplied by Nautical Data International Inc. of these ports worked longer seasons. They had to contend with fog and isolation. Even to- wealth to the fish trade. Accounts are given by men day many of these communities must depend upon who fished on the Grand Banks in conditions that ferries to bring them services. It is, for such reasons, would turn your hair grey, with tales of men who hav- that these people are so very special and no cruise to ing been lost from their schooners in the Grand Banks Newfoundland would be complete without a call to these wondrous ports. If you need solitude you will find it. If you seek grandeur it is yours. Throughout this leg Port aux Basques you must be prepared for human contact that shows a genuine concern for your well being. These folks are a Daniel Mushrow, Harbour Master stock who know the capricious nature of the sea and P.O. Box 8 Edna’s Road are more than willing to share their wisdom. Their ad- Port aux Basques, NF. A0M 1C0 (709) 695-3885 vice is to be heeded especially from the older ones of whom it is said “they have wrung more water out of their socks than you and I will ever sail over”. As you draw along this coast, you begin to hear stories about schooners great and small. Here is where you find the descendants of those great souls who brought much $

Year Round Notes: A busy port due to Ferry Early Settlers in this Region. Boats carrying passengers and Port aux Basques to Ferryland Head Yes freight.t N/A Strickland, Crewe, Durnford, Keeping, Sheaves, Vessel Traffic Martin,Pike,Ford,Harris,Brenton,Hann,Cox, Motel, B&B, Cabin Currie, Lawrence, Ingram, Patten, Rose, Grandy, Yes Hickman, Matthews, Parsons, Poole, Forsey, Foote, 1 Km Thornhill, Simms. 166 Km, Stephenville 4635 4641 4015

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada 11 Port Aux Basques to Ferryland Head rescues took place. In 1828, George Harvey, with the Ramea. assistance of his two children and their dog swam and Ramea, with a population of more than 1000, is retrieved a line from a stricken vessel. They rescued still one of the largest communities on the south coast. 163 crew and passengers from the Quebec bound In the late 1800’s this community was a hive of activity. Despatch which had struck a reef. A local merchant enterprise, Penny and Sons acquired The stark beauty of the rugged coast with isolated a fleet of schooners that harvested the rich fishing communities clinging to the mouths of rivers is spec- grounds. This community abounds with tales of life tacular. Along this coastline is Burgeo, a birders para- determined by the wealth of the merchants; most in- dise, nestled behind a permitter of islands. It beckons teresting for those who seek more than spectacular to those who wish to discover a true icon in the survival scenery. and development of a Newfoundland community. Not The coastline grows more dramatic heading east only was it one of the fishing capitals of the island, but to Grey River and Francois, where the hills rise steeply it was the people of Burgeo who gave new meaning to to tower over the sea. For you, as for the Jersey and the Fishermans’ Union. It lifted the industry out of vir- English fishing ships, the land-locked harbour of tual serfdom and into modern day respect for the Francois offers superb protection. One of its main fea- working class. tures is a 680 foot cliff called “The Friar” that overlooks Not satisfied with their isolation, these tenacious the community. Stores and fresh water can be ob- folk organized a tremendous effort that resulted in the tained here and the church will provide sustenance for building of a road ninety miles across impossible ter- the soul. rain that linked them to the Trans Canada Highway. A lively and talented folk, the people of Burgeo are a treat to encounter. A smart sail before the westerlies for a couple of hours will bring you to the island of

Ramea Francois Jim Marsden, Economic Dev. Officer Esau Durnford P.O. Box 69 Ramea, NF. A0M 1N0 P.O. Box 48 Francois, NF. A0M 1E0 (709) 625-2235 (709) 842-3366

$ Year Round Truck Year Round N/A Yes Notes: Closest Marine Service No Center is Burgeo, 10 km. 50 Ton Boarding house 16 No B&B Clinic Homes Via Ferry 0.5 Km 200 Km, Stephenville

4637 4634 4633 4015 4633 4015

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada 13 Ferryland Head to Cape Bonavista Cape Bonavista Catalina

Trinity Petley Trinity BayBay de Verde Clarenville Old Perlican Heart's Content Cape St Francis Arnold's Cove Harbour Placentia Bay Grace St. John's Long Cove ConceptionRNYC Bay Brigus Cape Spear Placentia Bay is filled with beautiful is- Long Harbour AVALON Holyrood lands - Woody Island, Paradise Island, PENINSULA Bay Bulls Argentia Merasheen, Red Island and Oderin, the Marystown Placentia land of saints and scholars. It is not Ireland, Burin Fermeuse Cape nor France nor England, it is a place all its Placentia Bay St Mary's St. Lawrence Trepassey own, great and majestic. There are hidden Ferryland Head Cape Race bays within bays and shorelines that ribbon the coast from pasture land to eagle’s Ferryland Head Not to be used for navigation to Cape Bonavista roost. A bay that could hold a sailor in its Maps supplied by Nautical Data International Inc. grip for a lifetime. Little wonder it was fought over by the English and French, as sailors fought over maid- is set among high cliffs and quiet coves. It was first ens. Broad beaches and inland bays made it ideal for used by the Basques in the 1500’s. Its name is said to the strategy of navies, the economy of merchants and come from a French word “burine”, an engraving tool the churches’ search for souls. the shape of which is reflected in the outline of Burin St. Lawrence is a fine place to rest after a long sail. If you are lucky you will find a soccer match in prog- ress. This town which has supported itself with the fish- St. Lawrence ery and a fluorspar mine is also most famous for its development and sponsorship of soccer. It is a real Gregory Quirke, Town Clerk P.O. Box 128 St. Lawrence, NF. A0E 2V0 treat to watch the local teams play in tournaments that (709) 873-2222 would do them proud the world over. Some twenty miles along this coast brings you to Burin a town of about 3,000 people. This community

April - Oct Early Settlers in this Region. Truck Ferryland Head to Cape Bonavista N/A Notes: Closest Marine Service Brown, Buffett, Emberely, Tobin, Power, VHF 16 Center is Fortune. O’Brien, Walsh, Carew, Morey, Carter, Mac Grath, Motel, B&B Tucker, Harvey, Murphy, Whelan, Power, Randell, Motel, Rec. Center Ryan, Noseworthy, Snow, Collins, Dawe, 2 Km Bradbury, Bishop, Butler, Pike, Snelgrove, Butt, 356 Km, St. John’s Bartlett,Moores,Earle,Guy,Tilley,Hopkins, Taverner, Pitcher, Piercey, George, Cooper, Taylor, Hodder. 4642 4625 4016

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada PORT AUX BASQUES TO FERRYLAND HEAD busy with fishing and cargo vessels. Once settled, you continued will find, Harbour Grace is a great walking town with old cathedrals, graveyards, homes and stores. You can even get some cod liver oil out of an ancient vat to mix well find company there from the local yacht clubs. into your bottom paint, as was done in the old days. If you select Brigus, you have three choices for the When standing off Carbonear Island, it is well to evening. The fish plant wharf which always welcomes know that much has been written about this ancient visitors at no charge, the inside marina with an area for fortress isle and the brave people of Carbonear who a boat side barbecue in the quiet cove behind the successfully defended themselves from the attacks of breakwater, or you can anchor in Riverhead behind General Pierre Le Moyne d’Iberville in 1696. His attack Molly’s Island. Most of the houses down by the water- upon Carbonear Island was rebuffed. You can imagine front are unique. The place is a fine example of seven- his frustration and rage when the defenders tricked his teenth century stone masonry. An artist’s paradise, ships into coming in over the bar at Mosquito Cove Brigus has been home to many famous people such where she tore out her bottom, broke up and sank. Af- as the artist, Rockwell Kent, whose home still stands ter that, d’Iberville left the place in disgust and nestled in the cliffs. Craft shops abound in a tasteful marched home to Placentia. selection and co-exist with at least three Bed and Breakfast homes each unique and each curious. A It is forty miles by sea from Carbonear to one of walk past the ancient churches and through the grave- the largest sea bird sanctuary-come-whale play- yards is an experience in the quiet evening that is not grounds on the eastern seaboard. Take a bearing for soon forgotten, especially when all is silent in the silver Western Bay light - twelve miles down the north coast of a full moon. of Conception Bay past all those places you saw on the chart when you first came off Cape St. Francis - Set your course for Port de Grave and/or Cupids. Spout Cove, Perry’s Cove and the sands of Salmon Cupids was first settled in 1610 by John Guy in whose time there were great forests that provided all that was needed by settlers to make boats, wharves, sheds and cabins. Across from Cupids is Port de Grave on the Bay de Verde north shore of Bay de Grave, a working fishing com- M. Walsh munity with good anchorage and a marine supply P.O. Box 10 Bay de Verde, NF. A0A 1E0 store. Here, have been built, some of Newfoundland’s (709) 587-2260 finest fishing vessels. These builders are the grandsons of the grandsons whose great grandfathers supplied half the fishing wealth to England. Not to mention the timber wealth sent to Poole and Bristol that built the ships that plyed the seas of British war and commerce.

Year Round Next are the communities of Bay Roberts , Truck Harbour Grace and Carbonear. If you decide to ap- N/A proach Harbour Grace from the south, closely watch your chart as you pass between Feather Point and Har- No bour Grace Island. If you should see bottom, do not be B&B alarmed. Re-check your chart and bearings, at most No there are three fathoms of water in the course. 10 Km “Salvage” is a rock, well named, even though it is 181 Km, St. thirty feet above the water and quite visible. On your John’s chart are indicated lateral buoys. Into this harbour sails many a large foreign drag- ger and swordfish ship. Harbour Grace can be quite 4850 4017

32 'Round the Bay, 1997 PORT AUX BASQUES TO FERRYLAND HEAD up alongside his vessel. continued A word of caution; drop your sails and enter very cautiously. There is lots of deep water but in this har- Cove. When you get to Western Bay light you can turn bour are anchored dozens of small skiffs. Most are an- the corner and put her up to the Ochre Pit Cove wharf chored on fairly short rhodes but sometimes your for lunch and then press on for Bay de Verde. If you propeller will come very close to a tangle in one that is stay the night on Ochre Pit Cove, be sure the wind is not. You need a hand forward at the ready to fend off. westerly. Anything out of the northeast to south causes You also need to be a good judge of distance as some too much chop and assures you will be up all night of these are anchored only a boat length apart. Some- watching your lines. Some people forget about Job’s times one is tied to the stern of another with the Cove rock. Even though they have checked on the painter between almost invisible. The view of this little chart they end up sailing right over it. In calm weather, harbour and the surrounding hills in the peace of the that is fine, the most will happen is you will get a smart evening are a sight to behold. rush of the pulse as you see it pass beneath your keel some fifteen to twenty feet below - it’s colour is green. Trinity Bay You want to stay well clear of that especially if there is To enter Trinity Bay, you have two ways to go. If any kind of a swell running. Not all Atlantic swells are you want to see, hear and smell a million sea birds, of the same height no matter how innocent. then you head north on the outside of Baccileau Is- Leaving the Harbour Grace/Carbonear area set land. A solid sentinel of cliff and stone is believed to be sail for Bay de Verde. When entering this port, well off home to the second largest sea bird colony on the At- to starboard is a huge breakwater. Inside, directly lantic seaboard. If you have timed it right, the sky will ahead is a fishplant. It may have a place for you to tie turn black as half a million “mother Carey’s chickens” up or the skipper on a longliner may allow you to tie or storm petrels set out on their daily flight to the deep

Old Perlican Heart’s Content Alex Pike, Harbour Authority Alice Cumby, Town Clerk P.O. Box 39 Old Perlican, NF. A0A 3G0 P.O. Box 31 Heart’s Content, NF. A0B 1Z0 (709) 587-2515 (709) 583-2491

Year Round May - Oct

Truck Notes: The Marine Service Truck 70 Ton Center is operated by Button’s N/A Marine Inc. 7 No B&B Hotel, B&B B&B No 2 Km 20 Km 170 Km, 130 Km, St. John’s St. John’s

4850 4017 4850 4017

34 'Round the Bay, 1997 Port Aux Basques to Ferryland Head waters far at sea, there to remain feeding until their re- con Cove Head, Heart’s Content, Southern Point, turn at eventide near sunset. Lousy Rocks, Hanging Hill and Heart’s Desire. Com- Unlike Conception Bay, you may find an abun- mon consensus has it, that many of these places were dance of fog in Trinity Bay, in the early morning, that so named because the original visitors were engaged will hang around until after ten o’clock. Should you be in the migratory fishery and returned each fall to Eng- under way in this, a proper radar unit would be a defi- land in the sixteenth century. Not having settlement in nite asset. For the most part, in the summer months, mind and because it was vigorously discouraged by all is clear. the British owners of fishing companies. Names were very temporary in design often reflecting the local land- Some years, the mariner will find a small number scape. of icebergs unusually grounded on the southeast shore of this bay up until the month of August. Keep a sharp Heart’s Content is a good place for a stop as it pro- eye for “growlers” or bits of icebergs that can be found vides both anchorage or wharf. Once you are settled, floating to leeward of the bergs. A small piece of this you will find a most interesting heritage. It would be can add real excitement to your drinks. Under no cir- worth your while to visit the local museum. Different cumstances should you attempt to land on a berg or from the ordinary maritime museum, it is devoted to go within fifty yards of one as they are prone to split the extensive collection of exhibits that reflect the land- and roll especially when grounded. ing of the first trans-Atlantic cable which was strung from Valencia, Ireland to Heart’s Content by Cyrus W. On the southeast shore are settlements such as Field in 1866. Old Perlican - well marked and possessing a marine haul out, well supplied general store and a hospital. The other way to go into Trinity Bay is through the Close scrutiny of your chart is advised before entry. At Tickle. Be advised that there are many cod traps, this juncture, your curiosity may be aroused by some fishing boats, and whales that press so close you can of the place names on this coast like Bloody Point, Ba- almost pet them. Named by Gasper Corte Real, Trinity

Long Cove Random Island, Petley Calvin Peach, Harbour Authority Thomas Mills Norman’s Cove, NF. A0B 2T0 P.O. Box 7859 Clarenville, NF A0E 1J0 (709) 592-2731 (709) 547-2369

Year Round

Truck June - Oct N/A Truck 9,10 20 Ton Hotel, 30 km 16 No B&B 30 Km Yes 115 Km, 32 Km St. John’s 180 Km, Gander

4851 4852

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada 35 Cape Bonavista to Cape Bonavista Cape Bauld Cape Bauld to Cape Bauld Not to be used for navigation St Anthony Maps supplied by Nautical Data International Inc.

Englee

Bonavista Bay

It is time now to find your way to Cape La Scie White Bay Jackson's Arm Bonavista as did John Cabot in June of Notre Dame Twillingate Bay Fogo Island 1497. The only difference is unlike Cabot Little Seldom Moreton's Harbour you have to watch your charts carefully and Triton Cape Freels Lewisporte Cabot Island be sure to clear the shoals outside Catalina Botwood Wesleyville Harbour. You do this by leaving the outer Bonavista Bay Cape Bonavista buoy to port and then setting your course NEWFOUNDLAND Bonavista for Cape Bonavista. Salton's Brook Port Blandford A great fishing port, Bonavista is ap- proached outside or inside Green Island. Pay close at- you want to see how a race of people raised a living tention to your chart. Once past the impressive from the sea for five hundred years then pull out the lighthouse, high above you, and you are squared up to chart, and take up the challenge. enter port, you will find the harbour generous with dock space and deep water. In particular, there is a Your first leg could set you off on a course for Port marine centre quite capable of hauling and servicing yachts of most any size. The town itself requires some close study as it provides architecture and historic in- Bonavista terest surpassed by few ports on this entire coast. Alex Ayles Bonavista, in a word, is the cornerstone of the P.O. Box 279 Bonavista, NF. A0C 1B0 greatest fishery in the world. John Cabot made it the (709) 468-7816 founding stone of the British Empire abroad: its men, its women, its trade and its wealth. Before you lies Bonavista Bay, the cradle of the British Empire, with hidden coves, long fjords, runs, tickles and passages. It makes small wonder, Sir Winston Churchill once remarked that Newfoundland seafarers made the best boat handlers in the world. If $

May - Sept Notes: Marine Service Center is operated by Bonavista Fabrication Early Settlers in this Region. Truck & Repairs Ltd. Cape Bonavista to Cape Bauld 50 Ton Yes Samson, White, Green, Burry, Goulding, Quinton, B&B, Cabin Akerman, Barbour B&B’s Wells, Gillett, Young, Gill, Colbourne, Osmond, Yes Rideout, Genge, Samson, Kinden, Henderson 270 Km, Gander 4849 4569 4562 4017, 4858

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada 43 Port Aux Basques to Ferryland Head upon the ageless ice that comes each spring and see through eyes of native men who early came with bow La Scie and club and frail craft to simply live. These island sen- Robert Starkes tinels have seen it all and too often heard the final ag- P.O. Box 234 La Scie, NF. A0K 3M0 ony of castaways. A stark beauty, these guardians of (709) 675-2076 the passage north. St. Anthony ahead, a day’s sail from the Grey Islands. It is a small picturesque town beginning as a seasonal fishing station for French and Basque fishermen in the early 1500’s. St. Anthony, a wondrous place, made famous by Sir Wilfred Grenfell and his mission, who gave a life of service to his fel- low beings. St. Anthony is the main service Year Round Notes: Marine Service Center center for the Northern Peninsula. For the boater it has operated by All 4 One Fibre Truck Products Ltd. plenty of wharf space and marine services. While visit- ing, seek out the restored Dock House (built in 1929), 75 Ton used by Grenfell to repair Grenfell Mission boats. A No crew change could be arranged at St. Anthony due to B&B the close proximity to the airport. A short trip from St. B&B Anthony will bring you to historical L’Anse auz Clinic Meadow’s. 200 Km, Deer Lake 4522 4520 Ba280

Triton Jackson’s Arm Ben Fudge, Pete Winsor Alfreda J. Osmond P.O. Box 289 Triton, NF. A0J 1V0 P.O. Box 10 Jackson’s Arm, NF. A0K 3H0 (709) 263-2544 (709) 459-3122

Year Round May - Dec Truck Notes: Marine Service Center Wharf operated by All 4 One Fibre 160 Ton N/A Products Ltd. 16 No B&B Hotel, B&B No Yes Clinic Clinic 160 Km, Deer 120 Km, Deer Lake Lake

4593 4520 Ba280 4540 4584 4520

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada Port Aux Basques to Ferryland Head Labrador

Labrador Coast Not to be used for navigation Maps supplied by Nautical Data International Inc.

If your choice is Labrador then you are off to L’Anse-au-Loup, Red Bay, and Battle Har- bour. There is much more to Labrador that is listed in this guide, however further north is considered a real adventure. A trip further up the Labrador coast should be well planned. Labrador is a land of contrasts and culture where the “first people” - the Innu and Inuit Battle Harbour live beside and within the more recent culture carved Labrador by Europeans. Once “Down to Labrador”, as locals re- fer to it, there awaits the work of nature’s grandeur like Red Bay you have never seen with towering mountains, massive Québec L'Anse au Diable rock faces, huge lakes and rivers that run forever L'Anse au Loup Cape Bauld In Red Bay you will find archaeological reconstruc- Capstan St Anthony tion of a Basque whaling station complete with living Strait ofPoint Belle Isle quarters. Another site is that of Battle Harbour where a whole community had been preserved as a monument to those hardy souls who came to settle and to prose- cute the fishery. The mercantile saltfish premises at L’Anse au Loup Battle Harbour were established by the firm of John Marcel O’Brien Slade & Company of Poole, England between 1750 P.O. Box 101 L’anse au Loup, LB. A0K-3L0 and 1775. It’s location led to the Slade premises be- (709) 927-5540 coming the major base for the region’s cod and seal fisheries and for the commercial trade that led to the formation of a permanent community. The local popu- lation increased rapidly after 1830 when it became recognized capital of the Labrador floater fishery. Bat- tle Harbour remained in the hands of Slade & Co. until $ 1871, and during this time it became a settled com- May - Dec Truck N/A Early Settlers in this Region 16, 10 Labrador Hotel, B&B Hotel Buckle, Earle, Dumaresque, Hancock, Jones, 10 Km Letto, Goudie, Pike, Roberts, Woodward, Slade, 25 Km, Roberts, Normore, Pye, Smith, Blanc Sablon Rumbolt, Barbour, Tobin.

4668 4020

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada 53 Capstan Point to Cape Ray Capstan Point to LABRADOR Cape Ray QUÉBEC Cape Bauld

Caps t an St Anthony Point

Englee Port auChoix

Capstan Point to Bonne Bay Capstan Point to Cape Ray Leaving St. Anthony or Labrador, set Cow Head

sail for Griguet where you will find a fisher- Rocky Harbour Woody Point Norris Point man’s wharf and marina services. From Lomond there move on to Quirpon. After the hospi- tality of Quirpon, then shape the course to Little Port Hd BayofIslandsYachtClubnear carry you past Cape Onion, CORNER BROOK

and down the straight shore to St. Barbe. Stephenville

Often referred to as the French Shore the St George's Bay NEWFOUNDLAND history of the Basque on this coastline, reveals an older and more interesting history for the adventurous. Tra- Cape Anguille ditional cod fishing stations can be found on the many Cape islands along this coastline rather than the mainland Ray Channel-Port aux Basques Not to be used for navigation due to the lack of sheltered harbours close to the fish- Maps supplied by Nautical Data International Inc. ing grounds. From Ferolle Point to Cape Ray there are many islands to visit that have remains of the Basque and French fishers. The light at Ferolle Point is a well known landmark. Port au Choix The harbour which lies between Ferolle Island and the mainland (now known as Plum Point) provided a safe Kieran O’Keefe, Harbour Supervisor P. O. Box 380 Port au Choix, NF. A0K harbour for the Basque. Anchor and go ashore to 4C0 Ferolle Island, in your dingy. You will see a traditional (709) 861-3866 fishing station used by both the Basque and the French. A stone cook-house is still there. Go ashore to the mainland and visit the Plum Point Motel. You will find a swimming pool, laundry, showers and a wonderful meal. Adjacent to this, is a large gro- cery/hardware store and a liquor store. $

April - Dec

Truck Notes: Closest Marine Service Early Settlers in this Region. 200 Ton Center is Port Saunders, 7km. Capstan Point to Cape Ray Yes Musseau, Anderson, O’Quinn, Gaulton, Whalen, Motel, B&B Genge, Payne, Coombs, Chambers, Applin, Coles, Yes Coates, Pilgrim, Compton, Bussey, Hardy, Ryan, 7 Km Humber, Beaudon 190 Km, St. Anthony

4679 4680 4663

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada MARINE COMMUNICATIONS TRAFFIC SERVICES NAVTEX, VHF, MF COVERAGE

VESSEL TRAFFIC SERVICES - VTS PortauxBasque Placentia Traffic St. John's Traffic

LABRADOR NAVTEX,VHF,MFCOVERAGE CART WRIGH T VHF GOOSE BAY MF NAVTEX

L'ANSE AU MEADOWS ST. ANTHONY

TWILLINGATE

NEWFOUNDLAND CAPE BONAVISTA

STEPHENVILLE PORT AUX BASQUE ST.JOHN'S RAMEA

PLACENTIA VHF

MF

NAVTEX Not to be used for navigation Map provided by Nautical Data International Inc.

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada 63 SEA ICE CODE STAGE OF DEVELOPMENT THICKNESS 1 - New Ice < 10 cm Information Source: Atmospheric Environment Service, 2 - Nilas < 10 cm Environment Canada 3 - Young 10 - 30 cm 4 - Grey Ice 10 - 15 cm CONCENTRATION 5 - Grey-White Ice 15 - 30 cm EGG CODE 6 - First Year > 30 cm 1- 1/10 Cover 6- 6/10 7 - Thin First Year/White Ice 30 - 70 cm 2- 2/10 7- 7/10 1. - Medium First Year Ice 70 - 120 cm TOTAL PACK 3- 3/10 8- 8/10 4. - Thick First Year Ice >120 cm X ICE CONCENTRATION . 4- 4/10 9- 9/10 7 - Old Ice 8. - Second Year No 5- 5/10 10- 10/10 . CONCENT RAT ION OF 9 - Multi Year {Defined X X X EACH ICE TYPE (Fraction of the Surface area of ocean - Icebergs Ranges covered by ice)

STAGE OF DEVELOPMENT X X X (Type, Age, Thickness etc) X FORM OF ICE WIDTH EXAMPLE TRACE (Less than 0 - Pancake one tenth) FORM OF ICE 1 - Brash 9+ NINE TENTHS PLUS X X (Dominant Floe Size) TOTAL PACK 2 - Ice Cakes <20 m ICE CONCENTRATION X 3 - Small Floe 20-100 m TWO TENTHS 4 - Medium Floe 100-500m ONE TENTHS 1 6 2 ThreeIceTypes 5 - Big Floe Thick Thin 500-2000m MEDIUM FIRST 6 - Vast Floe 2-10 km YEAR ICE TENTHS 1 5 2 NILAS) 7 - Giant Floe >10km 7 8 - Fast Ice TRACE General Terminology 9 - Icebergs OLD ICE) 5 X NO FORM) BIG FLOES 3

Sea Ice: Ice formed at sea by the freezing of Drydocked Iceberg: An iceberg which is SIX TENTHS, GREYWHITE ICE, salt water. SMALL FLOES eroded such that a U-shaped slot is formed International Sea Ice Egg Code: Standard near, or at water level, with twin columns or chart format for the reporting of sea ice. pinnacles. Ice of Land Origin (Glacier Ice): Icebergs Blocky Iceberg: A flat-topped iceberg with regularly undulating surface giving it a that have calved from a glacier, usually from steep vertical sides. ribbed appearance from the air. Western Greenland. Icebergs are the most picturesque, most dangerous, and most pub- Sizes of Glacier Ice: Weather & the Yachtsman licized aspect of ice in the sea. Some of the largest icebergs are in the 10 million ton Growler: Smaller piece of glacier ice than a The weather map provides a bird’s-eye view range. Ice bergs are controlled mainly by bergy bit, often transparent, but appearing of the weather over a large area. To help water currents, and drift from Greenland, green or almost black in colour, extending you to read the weather maps transmitted along “Iceberg Alley” (Labrador Coast) and less than 1 m above the sea surface. Has a on marine facsimile machine, the basic to the Grand Banks. The maximum drift length of less than 5 m and normally occu- features of a weather map are outlined be- rate is in the 10 nautical mile per day range. pying an area of about 20 sq. m. low. The Iceberg season in Newfoundland waters Bergy Bit: A piece of glacier ice, generally Centre of high pressure: An area where is from March to July. Icebergs are freshwa- showing 1 to less than 5 m above sea level, pressure decreases in all directions out ter ice. with a length of 5 to less than 15 m. from the centre. Shapes of Glacier Ice: Normally about 100-300 sq. m. in area. Centre of low pressure Small Iceberg: A piece of glacier ice extend- An area where pressure increases in all di- Calving: The breaking away of a mass of ice ing 5 to 15 m above sea level with a length rections out from the centre. from an ice wall, ice front, or iceberg. of 16 to 60 m. Isobars: Lines joining places of equal pres- Iceberg: A massive piece of ice of greatly Medium Iceberg: A piece of glacier ice ex- sure, drawn at intervals of four milibars. varying shape, protruding 5 m or more tending 16 to 45 m above sea level and with The closer the isobars, the stronger the above sea level, which has broken away a length of 61 to 120 m. wind. from a glacier, and which may be afloat or Large Iceberg: A piece of glacier ice extend- Cold Front: The leading edge of an advanc- aground. May be described as tabular, ing 46 to 75 m above sea level with a length ing cold air mass, which usually moves domed, pinnacled, wedged, drydocked, or of 121 to 200 m. southward. “Icicles” on the map point to blocky. Sizes of icebergs are small, me- Very Large Iceberg: A piece of glacier ice cold air. dium, large and very large. extending more than 75 m above sea level Warm Front: The trailing edge of retreating Tabular Iceberg: A flat-topped iceberg. and with a length of more than 200 m. cold air mass, which usually move north- Most showhorizontal banding. Iceberg Tongue: A major accumulation of ward. “Raindrops” on the map face into Domed Iceberg: An iceberg which is smooth icebergs projecting from the coast, held in cold air. and rounded on top. place by grounding, and joined together by Wind Speed Flags:Theshaftofthearrow Pinnacled Iceberg: An iceberg with a central a fast ice. represents the direction form which the spire, or pyramid, with one or more spires. Ice Island: A large piece of floating ice pro- wind blows. The wind speed, in knots, is truding about 5 m above sea level, which given by the number of barbs and flags on Wedged Iceberg: An iceberg which is rather the shaft. flat on top and with steep vertical sides on has broken away from an Arctic ice shelf. one end, sloping to lesser sides on the other Has a thickness of 30-50 m and an area of end. from a fewthousand square meters to 500 sq. km or more. Usually characterized by a

64 'Round the Bay, 1997 Port Aux Basques to Ferryland Head

Glacier Dry Dock

Blocky Pinnacled

Tabular Domed

Photography and Ice Information courtesy of Canadian Ice Service

Non-Tabular

(800) 767-2885 / (613) 996-1550 e-mail: [email protected] URL: http://www.tor.ec.gc.ca/ice/

Wedged Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada 65 Newfoundland and Labrador Marine Weather Forecast Areas

20 Belle Isle 30 Southwestern Grand Banks 38 Belle Isle Bank 21 Northeast Gulf 31 Southeastern Grand Banks 41 Lake Melville 22 Gulf-Port au Port 32 Northern Grand Banks 66 South Labrador Coast 23 Southwest Coast 33 Funk Island Bank 67 Mid Labrador Coast 24 South Coast 35 Northwest Labrador Sea 68 North Labrador Coast 25 East Coast 36 East Labrador Sea 26 Northeast Coast 37 South Labrador Sea

66 'Round the Bay, 1997 Port Aux Basques to Ferryland Head

Whales of Newfoundland and Labrador

Humpback Whale Drawings by Vonnie Barron, 1996 35- 40 ft.

Blue Whale 75 - 80 ft.

Fin Whale 60 - 75 ft.

Beluga 16 ft. Sperm Whale 50 ft.

Sei Whale Narwhale 60 - 75 Ft. 16 ft.

Pilot (Pothead) Whale Right Whale 20 ft. 35 - 50 ft.

Northern Bottlenose 30 ft. Minke Whale 20 -30 ft.

Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada 71