24-5 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0031 Tel: 03-5456-8082 Fax: 03-5456-8388 Mail: [email protected] Newsletter Vol. 4 Summer 2016 http://www.japancivilization.org/

On 24th May, 2016, the fourth symposium held by Japanese Civilization Institute took place at University of Economics in Shibuya, Tokyo. Attending the symposium were Mr. Hiroshi Sakurai, president of Asahi Shuzo Co., a brewery that produces Japanese Dassai, which is also popular among people outside Japan, Mr. Tsuneyasu Takeda, adjunct lecturer at Kogakkan University and Mr. Katsuhiko Kitamoto, former appraiser of National Research Institute of Brewing (NRIB), and now research professor of Nihon Pharmaceutical Uni- versity and professor emeritus at Tokyo University. Chilled Dassai was offered to attendees prior to the opening of the event, and amid a comfortable atmosphere, Mr. Kitamoto presented his lecture entitled, “Japanese sake and my life with koji mold.” Then, Naoki Inose, director of Japan Civilization Institute, who also served as MC, unfolded the discussion centering around the theme, “Why Japanese sake tastes good— leads the world.” The discussion revolved around various topics including Kojiki (Japan’s oldest historical record) and how Japanese sake came to be known to the world. The following is an extract from the event.

A Report on our 4th Symposium A special lecture Greetings

Kimiko Tsuzuki, Japanese sake and Chairperson of my life with koji mold Japanese Civilization Institute Our country is a country of “mizuho” (Land of Abundant ). Japanese sake— produced from “inaho” (ear of rice)—also plays an important role in Shinto rituals, and has developed to this day. Japanese food has been recorded on the list of the World’s Intangible Cultural Heritage, and for Japanese Civilization Institute, the act of discussing Japanese sake is the act of contemplating the culture backed by tradition and a very long history. This Newsletter summarizes our 4th Symposium revolving around Japa- By Katsuhiko Kitamoto nese sake. I hope you enjoy it. (Research Professor of Nihon Pharmaceutical University)

Photo by Asahi Shuzo Co.

I would like to talk about koji words, the key ingredient of umami issues ever since. My days at the mold today. I’m sure everyone knows in Japanese food is koji mold. Institute of Brewing, was spent on a lot about Japanese sake, but there I have long been studying just koji studying sake yeast and koji mold— are few who know about koji mold. mold. For 20 years, I worked at the two microbes essential for sake mak- What makes Japanese food different Institute of Brewing in Takinogawa, ing. I have also participated in the from, say French food and Chinese Kita Ward. During that time, I also development (breeding) of sake food is “umami (pleasant savory worked at the Regional Taxation yeast, which outcome can be seen in taste)”. Lying at the base of umami Bureau of Fukuoka and Sendai and Kyokai Sake Yeast No. 1901—a are seasonings like “miso” (soybean served as appraiser of sake. In 1995, High Ethyl Caproate Productivity paste), soy sauce and mirin (sweet I became professor emeritus at Tokyo that produces no Urea—distributed sake). What they have in common is University and have made a transi- two years ago by the Institute of koji, or koji-kin (koji mold). In other tion to studying basic biological Brewing.

About the group Address: 24-5 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0031 Designed by artisan and company Japanese Civilization Institute Tel :03-5456-8082 Fax:03-5456-8388 Established in August 2015 Website: http://www.japancivilization.org/ converting starch into glucose, which is then filtered. The transparent fluid is then fermented with beer yeast. The process of fermentation and sac- charification is different. It is known as a singular fermentation process. Japanese sake is made from one of the world’s most complex fermentation methods

In contrary, Japanese sake is more complex. Glucose of rice is produced from fermentation mash that remains in the tank. It undergoes a multiple parallel fermentation pro- cess, in which glucose is fermented to alcohol as soon as sake fermenta- Koji is essential for steamed rice. 20% of this is then tion begins. While alcohol percent- sake production used for making koji, while 80% is age is about 5% for beer, 10% for used for preparing seed mash and wine, an extremely high alcohol per- It goes without saying, that koji is “moromi” (mash). The seed mash is centage of 20% is produced with essential for sake production. When the starter. For example, when 1000 Japanese sake due to the skilled fer- you scratch some koji mold and put kg needs to be prepared, 7% or 70 kg mentation technique. Two types of it above some nutrient agar, then of rice is cultivated in a clean culture rice are used, “sakamai” (sake rice) look at it through a microscope, you as starter. The starter takes two weeks and rice used for food. Sakamai is see thin thread-like cells connected to complete. Then, it is used to pre- rice exclusively used for producing to each other like bean sprouts. pare moromi three times. By the time sake. The rice we normally eat is These are the seed malt of koji and moromi is completed, 18% of sake is about 22g for a thousand grains. we also call them “moyashi” (bean produced in the course of a month. It Yamada Nishiki sake rice is slightly sprouts). Recently, Japanese food is is then compressed and filtered and bigger, about 26.6g for the same seen by the world as a healthy cui- clear sake is produced. amount. sine. Studies show how koji mold Liquor produced by fermentation When you look closely, you see a itself that is included in Japanese using only fermentation skills include, milky white colored part in the cen- food has functions of health, and is wine, beer and Japanese sake. ter of the grain, which is referred to slowly being developed. Amongst them, Japanese sake takes as “shinpaku.” Shinpaku causes Excuse me for my long introduc- the most complex route of brewing reproduction of koji mold resulting tion. Let us return to our theme and production, called the multiple paral- in producing a fine mold. Amongst talk about how Japanese sake is lel fermentation process. Wine under- the many sakamai, Yamada Nishiki is made. When you look at the text goes a singular fermentation process, the most famous, and is used often books of sake production, you see in which the yeast simply ferments to make “ginjo-shu” (sake made from the famous phrase; “Ichi: koji, ni: the various saccharides, like glucose highly polished rice using special tech- moto, san: zukin” (first koji, then the and fructose fruit sugar included in nique). Ginjo-shu labled “Yamada yeast starter, then fermentation). In the ingredient of wine—grapes. Beer, Nishiki 35%” is made of other words, koji is the most import- on the other hand, converts polished to 35%, after being shaved ant component in sake production. starch into sugar. Using malt, sweet 65% from the outside with a rice-pol- The main ingredient of sake is juice (wort) is produced from amy- ishing machine when it was . Rice is polished, washed, soaked lase contained in malt. It undergoes rice. A large amount of “nuka” (rice in water and steamed to make a preliminary saccharification step of bran) is extracted at this stage, which

2 is used to make rice crackers and cos- example, moromi is fermented for a now used as an anti-indigestion tab- metics. Dassai’s company produces long period at a low temperature—so let. Meanwhile, there’s an exogenous rice flour bread from ginjo-shu in that ginjo with fruity fragrance and enzyme substance called lipase that collaboration with Kobeya Baking delicate taste is produced. removes oil stains in detergents, which Co., which is said to be delicious is made up of genetically engineered with the glutinous texture it pro- Koji’s usage ranges molds that are made by using koji vides. from medicine to mold. This is now used worldwide. The reason why the rice is polished Also, although there are very few is because the taste turns stale. The rice detergent reports on this, it’s known that koji we regularly eat is white rice that is mold has functions for enhancing shaved 10% from brown rice. Brown There are various types of koji health and beauty. I would like to rice is rich in nutrition be it minerals, mold. You can get them for about spread this information to the Japa- protein or fat, but that part acts nega- 100 yen at grocery stores, but those nese people, so I launched a project tively for sake flavor, so it is shaved off. packed in paulownia wood used called “Amazake Project” at Nihon Generally, an average of about 30% of exclusively for making ginjo, cost Pharmaceutical University. Amazake Japanese sake is shaved off from the about 10,000 yen. When you open it is considered effective for atopic der- brown rice, but ginjo-shu—that’s there’s seed malt, and amongst them matitis and hay fever too. But it’s not become popular today—shaves about are those that have plenty of green known and valued amongst the over- a half. There is an indication standard koji mold spores attached to them. all Japanese people so there’s a huge for ginjo-shu that more than 40% These bean sprout-like spores are gap. Yogurt, on the hand, is needs to be shaved. The more it’s pol- sprinkled on steamed rice for two extremely popular today, and there’s ished the more the starch gets purified, days and turned into white koji, a lot of study on lactic bacillus but resulting in fine sake. From experience, which is used for preparation. for koji mold there’s only about it is proved that protein and fat lessens, Koji mold is a lead player in Japa- 1/1000th amount of research done, and the fragrance of ginjo-shu is nese food that is used in Japanese which is a disappointment. So, we extracted and its taste becomes more sake, “mirin” (sweet sake), soy sauce, now have a goal for amazake to be delicate when this is done. “miso” (soybean paste) and “amazake” produced and consumed by about By the way, “daiginjo-shu” (super (sweet mild sake). As a matter of fact, 10% or more of yogurt by 2025. I premium ginjo made from high- it is used in purposes other than food truly believe that there are similar or ly-polished rice) shaves off more than from quite a long time ago. For exam- even greater possibilities for amazake 50%. Koji’s saccharification power is ple, it is used in Taka-Diastase, a med- compared to yogurt, so I would like strong and its ability to break up icine for digestion, which is also men- to contribute the rest of my life to protein is low. There is koji exclu- tioned in Natsume Soseki’s novel, koji mold and to study and spread it sively used for ginjo, that uses koji “Wagahai-wa Neko-dearu” (I am a so that more people will get to know mold with refreshing taste. Prepara- cat). Professor Jokichi Takamine about it. tion is thoroughly planned—for invented it over 100 years ago and is

Katsuhiko Kitamoto Born in 1950 in Kangagawa Prefecture. After graduating from the University of Tokyo, Faculty of , he became a researcher at National Research Institute of Brewing. He served as appraiser at Fukuoka Regional Tax- ation Bureau and Sendai Regional Taxation Bureau, as well as chief scientist at National Research Institute of Brewing. From 1996, he was a professor at Graduate School of Agri- cultural and Life Sciences. Presently, he is professor emer- itus at the University of Tokyo and research professor at Nihon Pharmaceutical University. He has received multiple awards including JSBBA Award for Senior Scientists.

3 Panel Discussion Why Japanese sake tastes good? Japanese cuisine leads the world

Hiroshi vs. Katsuhiko vs. Tsuneyasu Sakurai Kitamoto Takeda

Moderator Naoki Inose

Liquor Tax Law was revised in 1985, Japanese sake— and instead a standard indication sys- the transition that tem of labeling sake as Dai-ginjo, Ginjo and Junmai-shu was incorpo- made it taste good rated. Sake, with a ratio indicating the quantity of polished rice obtained Inose: Dassai was given out for tast- from brown rice which is below ing to the attendees here at the 70%, is established as “hon-jozo” venue. How was it? Dassai has layers (authentically brewed sake). Mean- of tastes, ranging from pungent taste, while, sake with a ratio below 60%— sweet taste to an astringent taste. another words, sake which rice is Takeda: It’s Junmai Ginjoshu with shaved 40%—is referred to as ginjo, taste and a flamboyant fragrance. and rice that is shaved 50% Dai- Hiroshi Sakurai (president of Asahi Shuzo Co.) Sakurai: Before Dassai, people fussed ginjo. In old times, there was low over refreshing, slender sake with fra- quality sake in which alcohol for twice the amount of moromi. Those grance but no taste. But as social con- brewing was even mixed. It could be types of sake are almost never seen ditions began to change, people said that the Liquor Tax Law put a today. That said, a small amount of began to look for taste in sake. Sake’s stop to sake lowering its quality. alcohol for brewing is included in hon- tastes have changed over time. Kitamoto: The grading system was a jozo. Hon-jozo a sake from old times Inose: Maybe people began to drink system in which the brewers reported which methods descend from “hashi- differently since the Koshinokanbai their own sake. In contrary, the stan- ra-jochu” (literally, “shochu spirit as a became popular. Today, good sake is dard indication system is operated supporting pillar”) of the Edo Period drank directly from the bottle as “rei- with definite guidelines, which I in which rice shochu was added to shu,” but back then, drinking sake think contributes to improving the raise the alcohol percentage to prevent out of a bottle without warming it quality of sake. “hiochi” (putrefaction of sake by bacte- up was referred to as “hiyazake” and However, adding alcohol for brew- ria called “hiochikin”). Its style is the was somewhat looked down upon. ing to sake, doesn’t necessarily degrade same as Cutty Sark blended whiskey. The Japanese system for grading the quality of sake. Maybe Mr. Inose is Inose: I see. A traditional way of sake—from “tokkyu” (special class), referring to “sanbai-zojo-seishu (sanzo)” brewing alcohol is utilized. But the “ikkyu” (first class) and “nikyu” (sec- (three-time increased sake), sake in way Dassai shaves off its rice until it ond class) was abolished when the which alcohol for brewing is added reaches 23% seems a bit of a waste,

4 but I guess that happens when you Japanese sake Romanne-conti—maybe a lot of Jap- thoroughly look for fine tastes. anese people won’t be able to drink Sakurai: Theoretically, with Dai- advancing into sake like they used to (laughing). I’m ginjo you only have to shave 50% off overseas markets happy that people outside Japan are the outside of the rice, but because getting to realize the appeal of Japa- rice is a product of nature it’s hard to —its tradition and nese sake, but on the other hand, the determine where the center of the technical innovation amount of sake that sake brewers can rice is. Even if you shave 50%, there’s produce is fixed, so you can’t sud- a possibility of leaving behind sac- Inose: With the outside culture denly double or triple the amount. charose and protein that you want to entering Japan, comparisons were Inose: How much is Dassai when it remove. Yamada Nishiki is a type of made, and expectations for Japanese is drank overseas? rice that is not easily broken even food and sake to become tastier Sakurai: About twice the price in when it is polished well, and from became high. At the end of 2013, America and four times the price in this is made “Dassai, migaki, sonosa- Japanese food was added to the list of Europe. You said that the purchase ki-e” (Dassai, polish, ahead of there), UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Her- price was irrelevant, but French a sake that is shaven over 23%. itage. Maybe from now onwards, restaurants normally charge three Inose: There are various procedures measures to compare Japanese sake times the purchase price. Simply cal- to making sake, but it seems its ulti- with wine, for example, need to be culated, Dassai is sold 12 times the mate taste appears to correspond to made. price of Dassai sold in Japan. the severe percentage of how much it Sakurai: As a brewer, we need to aim Takeda: In other words, Japanese is shaven off, right? for an “absolute taste” that can win sake has the value to be traded at a Sakurai: It’s not the only factor that’s over the battle amongst various price similar to that of Romanne- necessary, but the more you polish industries. No matter how much we conti. However, although there’s good the rice the tastier the sake becomes. say, “This is Japanese traditional cul- sake being made and there’s a popu- In the beginning, the producer’s ture,” it won’t help much overseas. It larity for Japanese sake, consumption endeavor was just competing to pro- was difficult for me to take this in, of sake in Japan is decreasing a few duce the most polished Japanese but for example, an authority of percent every year. sake. Some brewery experts said there French cuisine Robuchon said “I fell Sakurai: The baby boom generation was no meaning in polishing rice in love, immediately” when he tasted who were considered fans of Japanese after a certain point. However, when Dassai. sake went over to “shoch” (liquor dis- sake was actually made, it turned out Inose: Dassai is exported to how tilled from sweet potatoes, rice, buck- that the more they polished the rice, many countries? wheat, etc.) and never came back. the tastier it became and the more it Sakurai: We say 20 countries offi- Sake is not selling well even in Akita, matched with food. cially to the press, but if we include Niigata and Shimane Prefectures, Kitamoto: A few decades ago, com- embassies, to which we send one or where per capita consumption of sake puter controlled rice-polishing machines two cases, we’d say over 100 countries. is high. On the other hand, there’s a were invented and rice was automati- Takeda: About two years ago, when very small increase in Tokyo. I think cally polished be it 35% or 50%. Up I went into a restaurant in Paris, I the younger generation is beginning until then, “toji” (people who had found Japanese sake there. I thought to discover Japanese sake. special skills for rice milling) had to times have changed, and I tried to Takeda: I think this whole notion of; continuously pound rice for about order one but was surprised at the “anyway, let’s start with drinking 30 days to make polished rice of price. A shot of sake cost 500 Euro— beer” is what’s getting in the way. If 50%. Physically, it was only possible about 70,000 yen at the time. It’s not 10% of drinking a toast is done with to prepare a small amount of about a price for the bottle. In Japan it’s sake, maybe we can put a stop to a 700 kg of rice and that was it. The probably a type of sake that costs a small percentage of decline every year, fine taste of Dassai today greatly few thousand yen for “issho-bin” (a of drinking sake. Let’s keep sake in derives from computer controlled bottle of about 1.8 lit.). I asked them mind and start drinking it. How rice-polishing machines. how they priced their sake, then they about doing away with “anyway, let’s Sakurai: In addition to technical said it didn’t matter how much they start with drinking beer” everyone? innovation, I think it’s the Japanese paid for the sake, its taste was worth (laughing) people who started searching for the price. In the future, if rich West- Inose: It’s true. Since when did peo- good taste in sake that changed sake erners realized the appeal of Japanese ple start drinking with this notion of as a whole. sake and its international price con- “anyway, let’s start with drinking tinuously rose—so that one bottle beer”? On the other hand, recently cost a few hundred thousand yen like Dassai can be drunk at a normal iza-

5 Japanese economy developed. Just they’re only concerned in how they protecting tradition and avoiding the can charge tax, rather than how they entering of newcomers only weakens can make quality sake. The Japanese the industry. In order to maintain the sake industry has raised their quality Japanese sake industry, we need to only because brewers across the teach young people how to make nation—like Asahi Shozo—have con- sake. Also, today our lives no longer tinued striving to make good sake. centers round rice farming. If we use Inose: In 2015, the rules have Japan’s air conditioning skills, we can become strict and only sake produced easily cool and store rice as we please, from is allowed to be so making sake all throughout the labeled as Japanese sake. year is a reasonable choice we should Kitamoto: I think this can be under- Katsuhiko Kitamoto (research professor make. By pursuing technology and stood as the very first concept that’s of Nihon Pharmaceutical University) elevating quality, we’re trying to break close to brewery tax. A lot of Japa- down the barrier and make our way nese sake is made outside of Japan kaya (bara tavern). into the world. too. Amongst them is Korea, which Sakurai: I think it rash that brewers For Dassai, what used to be done has the largest factory. After 2015, price their sake with scarcity value, by toji’s intuition and experience—for sake made there is labeled “seishu” making brands out of “rare quality example measuring the water amount (sake made of rice and koji) when sake.” I want to expand the opportu- required for the rice, the fermenting they enter Japan. nity for Dassai so it can be enjoyed by process, and deciding on the growth Inose: This principle, I think, links a wide range of people. It should process of koji—is now accomplished with the idea of protecting domestic compete in the market simply with its by accurate calculation of digital sake producers. Quality Japanese sake tastiness, so that people may choose devices. We measure the extent of fer- cannot be made without increasing it again. There’s no need for the Jap- mentation digitally everyday but the number of farmers who produce anese sake industry to copy Hermes. humans control the extremely delicate “sakamai” (rice that’s suitable for Inose: If one brewer of Yamaguchi temperature change that can sometimes making sake). Prefecture became a national brand, be as small as 0.1 degree. For that part Sakurai: Yamada Nishiki is quality normally it wouldn’t be able to catch we never depend on machines. For rice that’s often referred to as “King up on the amount it needs to pro- example, sashimi tastes better when cut of Sakamai.” No matter how much duce. But Asahi Shuzo built a mass by humans not machines. Humans we come up with a new policy, if it’s production system so that fine prod- always do these types of delicate opera- within an existing realm, we’re only ucts can reach a wide range of peo- tions better than machines. going to shut out newcomers. We ple. It created a system that allowed need to think about increasing pro- quality products to be supplied not Sake making was duction or we’re not going to make only in exclusive shops but also in a Shinto ritual progress. Asahi Shuzo gets criticized izakaya. Every industry is suffering for buying up too much Yamada from successor issues and aging of according to Kojiki Nishiki, but I really think they should craftsmen. Toji is of no exception but stop saying that and think of a way to at Asahi Shuzo, we have young peo- Inose: Mr. Kitamoto, in the first increase production. Japan’s agricul- ple working. Also, we have a system place, appraisers fall under the juris- ture is losing 80 thousand tons of rice in which breweries can work all diction of the National Tax Agency, production every year. We only need throughout the year, allowing us not right? Recently, due to the influence to put a stop to that. Yamada Nishiki only to prepare sake in the winter— of cheap, malt-free beer-like alcoholic is very expensive compared to regular which is the tradition—but also in beverages, liquor tax has lessened to rice and in Hyogo Prefecture, three the summer. 1.4 trillion yen, while cigarettes’ tax recommended Agricultural Coopera- The average age of employees is 2.2 trillion yen due to the rise in tives are the ones that have control. working at Asahi Shuzo is 26.9. Not retail price. They both are a big But, there are inevitable needs for so long ago, there was a link between source of tax revenue—close to 1% Yamada Nishiki, so I once asked other farming villages and breweries, where of consumption tax. Agricultural Cooperatives to make employees could work in the rice Kitamoto: In Germany there’s brew- Yamada Nishiki. But that afternoon, fields in the summer and work as tojo ery tax, but in Japan there’s only I received a phone call from the direc- in the winter when work became liquor tax not brewery tax. The revi- tor of National Federation of Agricul- sparse. But the tojo system collapsed sion of liquor tax in 1985 was revolu- tural Cooperative Associations, warn- with the farming villages when the tionary. But, because it’s liquor tax, ing me to stop asking people to pro-

6 never experienced rice planting let alone sake production. By actually experiencing sake production—from scattering seed rice and planting the rice, to harvesting it to make organic sakamai, which is then prepared, squeezed and bottled with help from a brewery—I thought maybe I could experience something that’s very Jap- anese. Kojiki is Japan’s oldest histor- ical document. It means, the root of everything is written in it. The doc- Tsuneyasu Takeda (writer) ument, describes sake production as Naoki Inose (writer, director of Japa- a Shinto ritual. nese Civilization Institute) duce rice according to my opinions. In 2016, we had the Iseshima Inose: Agricultural Cooperatives’ Summit, but every autumn at Ise- sake with Nippon-bare. Scientifically, crop regulations are, in other words, jingu Shrine, “Kanname-sai,” which there is hardly any difference between the nation’s regulations. From now celebrates good harvest of the five Nippon-bare and Yamada Nishiki until 2020, more foreigners are going grains that year and abundant crop regarding its composition. But, sake to be coming in and it’s a good chance the following year, takes place. Rice produced from Yamada Nishiki tastes for Japanese culture to become better is “the root of our lives.” Kan- better when drank after a few decades. known, so we should do without name-sai is a meaningful festival that It seemed clear that just because obstructions and regulations and prays to the Gods that Japanese peo- there’s only a slight difference in its think about indirect aids and the ple live long the following year. If scientific makeup, it doesn’t mean country’s tourism policies. something that makes the Gods there’s no difference in its end results. Sakurai: Although we have these angry should happen, there won’t be Inose: In a research using genetic struggles, we now have Niigata and good harvest the following year. Rice analysis, it became clear that koji Tochigi Prefectures making Yamada and sake presented before the altar mold used for Japanese sake is origi- Nishiki. According to the Ministry of should be fine rice, so the Shinto nally Japanese. Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries’ priests make sake from scratch by Kitamoto: Yes. In a genetic informa- estimation, 626,000 “hyo” (straw rice planting the seeds. Four types of sake tion derived from genomic analysis, bag which used as unit of rice)— are offered—“shiroki,” “kuroki,” Japanese koji is very different to 37,000 tons—of Yamada Nishiki was “sumi-zake” and “rei-shu”—which mold used for making Shokoshu in made last year. Until recently it was are all brewed at the shrine except China, which has a long history. just over 300,000 hyo, so it’s nearly sumi-zake. Moreover, rei-shu is pro- In old times, there was “kuchika- doubled. Japan produces just below duced with rice grown by the Shinto mi-sake” in which young women 8 million tons of rice overall, so priest. Sake is this much important. chewed the rice, so that amylase Yamada Nishiki covers just over 0.5 No festival can exist without it. inside the saliva converted starch into %. Inose: Mr. Kitamoto, wine is pro- sugar, to make sake for Shinto rituals. Inose: I think this idea of getting rid duced by fermenting it once. Com- But this was inefficient, as they of abandoned rice fields that are not pared to that, the procedure that Jap- couldn’t make large amounts. Before longer cultivated, and producing anese sake undergoes—from growing long, they discovered mold as an expensive Yamada Nishiki is very koji, yeast starter to preparing ingredient to convert starch into positive. moromi—is very complex. sugar. The roots of koji mold lies here, Sakurai: Then farmers will make Kitamoto: Wine production under- but until ten years ago, it was thought more profit and issues of successors goes a simple procedure which means that the mold entered Japan from will be solved. its ingredients—grapes—and its China with other Chinese culture. Inose: By the way, I hear Mr. Takeda quality, directly influences the wine. When kanji entered Japan, Yam- is producing sake too. Meanwhile, Japanese sake indeed ato language (original language of Takeda: Yes. I started producing sake needs added techniques. That’s why Japan) remained as “kun-yomi.” The as a part of my study group revolving when I was at the National Research reason why words like “茶” has only around “Kojiki.” It’s not for sale, but Institute of Brewing, I didn’t just “on-yomi” pronunciation; “cha,” is it’s called Junmai Ginjoshu “Kokuhu stick to producing sake out of Yamada said to be because Japan didn’t have Misogi.” Japan is a country of rice Nishiki. Technically speaking, I con- tea before kanji entered Japan. The farming, but most people today have sidered a way to produce good enough kanji “麹” is read as “kyoku” and

7 “kiku” in China, but in Japan it’s erage that can succeed in the global grapes aren’t good that year, the pro- read as “kun-yomi” pronunciation; market. I think we’re at the turning ducers have to give up. In contrary, “koji.” This proves that a mold called point of whether the Japanese sake Japanese sake has no fruitful year or koji existed in Japan before kanji industry can regenerate or not. “off year.” Sake craftsmen say they entered the country. Inose: I see a bright future for Japa- put an extra effort in the sake making This is a hypothesis, but Japan nese sake. Young people are starting when they have bad rice. Good rice is already had a good koji culture of its to make sake with Mr. Takeda in col- rice with which you have control. But own, so it didn’t need to adopt koji laboration with breweries. Also, the that doesn’t mean you can’t produce mold of China. Japanese mold tamed brand Dassai has quickly become good sake out of bad rice. It’s its wildness well, and from the widely known. With the Tokyo nerve-wracking, but it’s particularly Kamakura Period, even “koji-ya” (koji Olympics coming up in 2020, I exciting when sake produced by hand shops specializing in the koji mold) think Japanese sake—and Japanese is completed. I think the essence of appeared. To the contrary, the Chi- food, which is listed as UNESCO’s Japanese craftsmanship lies here. nese weren’t as systematic and they intangible cultural heritage—will be Inose: That Osaka’s soy sauce is couldn’t domesticate their mold. In regarded more and rated high by for- “usukuchi” (light) is because kelp those days, people had the obligation eign countries. Japanese people need from Rebun and Rishiiri Islands of to pay tax for sake, but if the koji seed to take more pride in their culture. Hokakaido Prefecture was brought in is bad so is the sake. Naturally, areas Kitamoto: Foreigners need to be by “kitamae-bune” (cargo ships that that had good koji-ya flourished. notified more on the evidence that sailed the Japanese seas during the Japanese is healthy food. I hope that Edo period). Meanwhile, Edo Koji culture and koji is studied more and the healthi- (Tokyo of today) consumes “kat- dashi culture—the ness of Japanese food becomes more suo-dashi” (bonito broth), which is obvious so that Japanese sake and why soy sauce of the district is “koi- future of Japanese food becomes more widespread in kuchi” (dark). Depending on the dis- food culture the world. trict, the taste of food is different, Sakurai: We want to promote Dassai which is why Japanese food isn’t just Inose: Adding to the four tastes; to the world with a simple concept, one type. Diverse cultures are bloom- “amami” (sweetness), “sanmi” (sour- like that of an old woman who pulls ing in a tradition. I hope Japanese ness), “shioaji” (saltiness), “nigami” a “daikon” (Chinese radish) out of people rediscover the appeal of “wa” (bitterness), the fifth taste “umami” her backyard plot and hands it over (Japanese things) and confidently (savory taste) was discovered in the saying, “it’s good, so try it.” Forget transmit it to the world so that more 20th Century. This umami was also marketing. Just try it, it’s good. We foreigners get to taste Japanese sake discovered by the Japanese people. want to make something that suits and food. Kitamoto: Western food contains these words. fats like milk and butter but Japanese Takeda: Wine has what’s called a (reprinted from “Shukan Dokusho- food doesn’t. Koji culture like shoyu, “fruitful year.” Another words, if the jin”, 1st July, 2016, No. 3146) mirin, miso, Japanese sake, and “dashi” (broth) culture such as “kat- suo” (bonito) and “konbu” (seaweed) plays the role of adding flavor to the simply seasoned cuisine. Inose: Under these conditions of Japanese food culture, can Japanese sake step into the global market? Can Japanese sake reach a standard to be chosen and served at restaurants worldwide along with wine? Sakurai: I think there’s a great possi- bility. But now, exports of French wine is 800 billion yen, while it’s only 14 billion yen for Japanese sake. It’s like experiencing a different culture, so it won’t be easy at first. We must continue failing and striving in order to promote Japanese sake into a bev- Chilled Dassai was offered to attendees.

8 The panelists Hiroshi Sakurai (president of Asahi Shuzo Co.) Born in 1950, in Shuto-machi (former Iwakuni-shi). After graduating Matsuyama University of Com- merce (Matsuyama University today) in 1973, he trained at Nishinomiya Shuzo (Nihonsakari today) before joining his family business, Asahi Shuzo in 1976. But he argued with his father, the family pre- decessor, regarding the way they should run and manage the brewery, so he left. In 1979, he established a stone wholesale business Sakurai Shoji. When his father passed away in 1984, he returned home and reorganized the company’s management centering on Junmai-daiginjo Dassai. Dassai has developed into a brand representing Japan and is now sold overseas.

Tsuneyasu Takeda (writer) Born in 1975, as a member of the Takeda family—an old Imperial Family. He is the great-great-grand- child of the Meiji Emperor. Graduated from Keio University, Faculty of Law, Department of Law. Spe- cialized in Study of Constitutional Law and Historical Science. He received the 15th Yamamoto Shichihei Award for his book, “Katararenakatta Kozokutachi no Shinjitsu” (Untold Truth of Imperial Family Mem- bers, Shogakukan). Other books he published include, “Nihon wa naze Sekai de Ichiban Ninki ga Aru no ka” (Why Japan is the most popular country in the world?) and “Gendaigo Kojiki” (Modern language Kojiki). He has presented the “Takeda Study Group” in 17 locations nationwide and gives more then 200 lectures a year.

Naoki Inose (writer) Born in 1946. In 1986, he received Souichi Ooya Nonfiction Award for his book “Mikado-no Shozo (Por- trait of Emperor).” In 1996, he received Bungeishunju Readers’ Award for his book “Nipponkoku no Kenkyu (A Report on Japan).” From then on, he actively worked toward abolishing and privatizing gov- ernment-affiliated corporations. In June 2002, Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi appointed Inose as member of the Promotion Committee for the Privatization of the Four Highway-Related Public Corpo- rations. He included the story of the battle in his books, “Doro no Kenryoku (Authority of the Road, Bunshunbunko)” and “Doro no Ketchaku (Settlement of the Road, Bunshunbunko).” In October, 2006, Inose served as Research Professor at the Tokyo Institute of Technology and in June, 2007, he served as Vice Governor of Tokyo. He served as Tokyo governor from December 2012 to December 2013.

Translation by Ayako Karino

9 Japanese Civilization Institute 2016 5th Symposium

From a long time ago, Japan has responded flexibly and consistently to the pressure and change of the outside world and persisting and making progress along the way. With the U.K. leaving the European Union, and with the U.S. presidential election coming up in November this year, we take this as a good opportunity to think about the effect these events might have on Japan, and to discuss from various angles, as to which way Japan should pave its way from here onwards.

▶ Panel discussion: “Globalization and modern state” The path that Japan should follow, taking into consideration the U.K. leaving the European Union and the upcoming U.S. presidential election MC： Kent Gilbert: Ruri Miura: Ken Kotani: Naoki Inose U.S. California lawyer, Political scientist, Policy Alternatives Professor at College of Risk Writer and director of TV personality Research Institute of the Univ. of Tokyo Management, Nihon University Japanese Civilization Institute

Date: 24th August 2016, 7 p.m.-9 p.m. (doors How to attend: apply through the site below: scheduled to open at 6:30 p.m.) http://www.japancivilization.org/ Venue: Japan University of Economics, Tokyo Contact: Japan Civilization Institute Shibuya Campus Hall (the hall seats 03-5456-8082 approximately 100 people) Address: 24-5 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku, Address: 25-17, Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tokyo 150-0031

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