C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS MAY 2013 NO. 212 The ’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

BEQUIA HEINEKEN EASTER REGATTA 2013 Story on page 16 WILFRED DEDERER MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 The Caribbean’s www.budgetmarine.com Leading Chandlery ARUBA CURAÇAO reliability andportability. these aretheultimateoutboardsforconvenience, Whatever yourboatingapplication, BONAIRE BONAIRE ST. THOMAS ST. THOMAS ST. CROIX ST. CROIX NANNY CAY GRENADA GRENADA ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ANTIGUA ANTIGUA of engines, parts andaccessoriesforeasy of engines,parts Budget Marinefeatures ahugeinventory distribution throughout theCaribbean. ANTIGUA •ARUBA •BONAIRECURAÇAOGRENADA •ST. CROIX•ST. MAARTEN•ST. MARTIN•ST. THOMAS•TORTOLATRINIDAD US$ STARTING AT: 945.00 finest inflatables! their statusastheworld’s AB Dinghieshaveearned in bothaluminiumandfiberglass. A wideselectionofmodelsavailable From 8ftand68lbs to28ftconsoleribs. Caribbean DutyFreeListPrices.Checkyourlocalstoreforfinalpricing. BINFLATABLES AB AB &TOHATSU PERFECT PAIR US$ STARTING AT: 2772.00 DEPARTMENTS

Info & Updates ...... 4 Cartoon ...... 30 Business Briefs ...... 7 Book Reviews ...... 32 Eco-News ...... 8 The Caribbean Sky ...... 35 Regatta News...... 10 Readers’ Forum ...... 38 All Ashore… ...... 20 Calendar of Events ...... 41 Meridian Passage ...... 29 Caribbean Market Place .....42 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Sailor’s Horoscope ...... 30 Classified Ads ...... 46 www.caribbeancompass.com Island Poets ...... 30 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46

MAY 2013 • NUMBER 212 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71 Mob: + 596 696 74 77 01 CHRIS DOYLE St. Vincent and the Grenadines. [email protected] Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 Meet ‘Salty’! [email protected] Panama: Distribution - www.caribbeancompass.com Shelter Bay Marina - www.shelterbaymarina.com Our new kids’ column… ...... 31 Puerto Rico: Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Editor...... Sally Erdle (787) 219 4918, [email protected] [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 [email protected] [email protected] St. Lucia: Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720-8432 [email protected] [email protected] Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Ad Sales & Distribution - Stéphane Legendre Accounting...... Shellese Craigg Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Compass Agents by Island: (787) 219 4918, [email protected] Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Distribution - Bryan Lezama Les Saintes, Revisited Tel (268) 720-6868 Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] Doyle takes a look… ...... 18 [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg Barbados: Distribution - Doyle Sails [email protected] Tel: (784) 457-3409 Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Hurricane Strategy? Colombia: Distribution - Marina Santa Marta Tortola/BVI: Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Be prepared… ...... 22 www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en (787) 219-4918, [email protected]

Curaçao: Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Distribution - Gladys Jones MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 JOHN LYTLE [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Tel: (284) 494-2830 Fax: (284) 494-1584 Dominica: Ad Sales & Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Trinidad: Sales & Distribution Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, David Bovell, Tel: (868) 497-1040 [email protected] [email protected] Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Venezuela: Ad Sales - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected] [email protected]

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts Exodus Launching no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Pining Away ©2013 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short Carriacou’s latest sloop… ..... 24 How sweet it is… ...... 37 excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. ISSN 1605 - 1998

Cover photo: Bequia’s 2013 Easter Regatta rocked a big fleet in big wind — and photographer Wilfred Dederer was on the water to catch the excitement

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

‘Every month, lots of information of every kind! We get informed about the newest Customs and Immigration regulations, we can read about destinations we never have been to, we get ideas where to sail, where to climb a mountain, where will be a fiesta or some sort of entertainment. We can even write about our desires, our problems, what we would like to have changed. So, we look every month for the next edition — to see what’s new!’ — Angelika Gruener S/V Angelos

Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078&spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Haiti forcruisingboatsandhopefullyestablishingmoreSSCACruisingStations.In edgement validatesallofhiswork.” boats visitingthisquaintislandoffthesouthwestcornerofHaitiandacknowl- Haiti asasafecruisingarea.Samhasbeenextremelyhelpfulformanyyearsto Cruising Guides,says,“ThisprestigiouscertificationbySSCAmarksthereopeningof Station HostfortheanchorageofIle-à-Vache,Haiti.FrankVirgintino,authorFree &Updates Info During 2013SamwillalsoworkwithFrankonvisitingfourothergoodlocationsin Sam AltemahasbeenappointedastheSevenSeasCruisingAssociation’s Reopening HaititoCruisers

new StationHostforIle-à-Vache,Haiti Seven SeasCruisingAssociation’s Meet SamAltema,theinternational FRANK VIRGINTINO FRANK —Continuedonnextpage SSCA [email protected]. Baie, PestelandAnseD’Hainault. addition toIle-à-Vache,theproposedroutingstopsareMoleSt.Nicholas,Grand Sam [email protected] MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 , which is surrounded by the audience in their by the audience in , which is surrounded Calico The “stage” is an old tugboat, The “stage” is Dieter’s philosophy with each project he undertakes is that he is only doing what Dieter’s philosophy with each project he undertakes is This song is recorded on a One song of each concert has to be about Grenada. For more information visit www.dinghyconcert.com. Caribbean Security Index Annual Review to assist cruisers in assess- The Caribbean Security Index (CSI) was created as a tool Each Dinghy Concert features a different band playing a different style of music. band playing a different style features a different Each Dinghy Concert attended by dinghy — a gig held at sea. — a gig held at sea. attended by dinghy for all of them that is also key to the success of the Dinghy Concerts. for all of them that is also key to the success of the Dinghy each Dinghy Concert, he likes to do. And although there is a lot of work behind to combine what he Dieter loves sharing his passions — it was always his dream loves most: music and the Caribbean waters for sailing. the history of an out- professional level and uploaded on YouTube, documenting standing project. The CSI provides a means of ing the risk from crime at ports of call in the Caribbean. in those risks. assessing risk in a given area as well as ensuing changes —Continued on next page dinghies. For landlubbers there is a shuttle for transportation and a barge for seating, for transportation and a barge there is a shuttle dinghies. For landlubbers bar, so nobody for sailors. And there is a Concerts are not exclusively so the Dinghy the boat. when the band is rocking has to be thirsty the world, visiting Grenada from all over bands or musicians Whether Grenadian experience exotic ambiance, a first-time about playing in this they are enthusiastic

DIETER BURKHALTER (2) . Editor and publisher of , Bruce also worked for other news- , Bruce also worked for other Caruiser Magazine Caribbean Compass newspaper, Rick Wayne, said, “When Bruce worked here he was newspaper, Rick Wayne, said, St. Lucia Star Continued from previous page Continued from Grenada Grooves with Dinghy Concerts Grenada Grooves with Dinghy Grenada has evolved into a phenomenon! A series of musical events in by Dieter Burkhalter, a playful musician, passion- The “Dinghy Concerts”, created Clarification on Grenada Immigration Clarification on appli- by the seemingly arbitrary from cruisers of being confused Following reports be extended of less than 12 months may permit to stay for a period In summary, a is prohibited. are reminded that employment Yachting visitors Eight Bells publisher Bruce MacDonald, 58, who lived aboard Yachting writer and magazine at newspapers in Tanzania, Lebanon, New Zealand, Born in England, Bruce worked ate sailor and energetic owner of Le Phare Bleu Marina & Boutique Hotel, are ate sailor and energetic owner A Dinghy Concert is a concert that has to be becoming ever more popular. loved by all he came into contact with. He will be missed.” loved by all he came into contact papers and magazines, and published papers and magazines, and the cation of Grenada’s Immigration laws when applying for extensions of stay at St. applying for extensions Immigration laws when cation of Grenada’s and Passport of Grenada’s Immigration Jessmon Prince George’s, Superintendent on April 16th. Grenada Board of Tourism a statement to the Department provided you must leave, date of entry. At that point of 12 months from the up to a maximum and so on. and stay for another 12 months but may return Bay Marina, died on Easter Sunday, March 31st after his yacht at St. Lucia’s Rodney a brief illness. United Arab Emirates before settling in St. Lucia. An Australia, Singapore and the occasional contributor to — MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 of crimesinagivenarea. income, distributionofpresencesecurity,infrastructure,andpastrecord unemployment, levelsofeducationandliteracy.Additionalfactorsincludeaverage the cruisercanrouteaccordingly. CSI indexisdrivenbydatabutpresentedintermsofprobabilities.Usingprobabilities, You candownloaditfreetoAndroidphoneortabletandloginwithyoure-mail. works off-line(read:atsea).HereisalinktoGooglePlaystore:http://bit.ly/SPUR8a. NauticWeather. Here’swhyit’scool:justwindandwaves,simplegraphicinterface, — The CaribbeanSecurityIndexhascompleteditsreviewoftheentireyear2012. The indexisderivedfromtheexaminationofrelationshipbetweencrime, The indexisstatedinanumericalscale(1to10)withmitigatingfactorslisted. Belize hasanactivetraditionalfishingfleet(22-to30-footflatbottomedsailboats) Jason Pearcewrites:ThelasttimeIlooked,BelizewasintheCaribbean! Greetings fromBelize! My nameisAhtiAho,andIbuiltamarineweather-appformyselfcalled Free WeatherApp The CSI’s2012yearinreviewisnowavailableatwww.freecruisingguides.com. Continued frompreviouspage

JASON PEARCE (2) PEARCE JASON the [email protected].” about sailingperse,butlivinginBelizeofwhichisabigpart.Togeton also aSSCACruisingStationHost. over andIhaveaHobieGetawayforstormingupdownChetumalBay.am my wife(still)andthreechildren,thenagedsix,ten12.Mycruisingdaysare teaching, racingandholdingregattas,ofwhichwehaveabouteightayear. have clubsinSanPedroandPlacentia.Weatotalfleetof25Optimistsfor Association wasformedandnowrepresentsusonetheinternationalstage.We fishing villageofConsejo,whereIlive.AbouttwomonthslatertheBelizeSailing number ofsailingclubs,thefirstonebeingformedaboutfouryearsagoinlittle and eachEastertheyholdaregattaatSartenejaonthenorthcoast.Wehave Salty’s Beat,onpage31. on page30—andwelcomebackNathalieWardwithafresheducationalseries, pages 42through44. page 45;Sant’sEquipmentandRentalsofTrinidadintheMarketPlacesection, com. Thanks! I putoutanewsletterabouttentimesyearcalled“YourManinBelize”.Itisnot I sailedfromFt.LauderdalethroughtheLeewardstoVenezuela25yearsagowith Good tohaveyouwithus! We alsowelcomeanewmemberofourintrepidCartoonCrew—seeSeaweed, In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! Leonard BooisthofSt.Martin,pleasecontactSallyatsally@caribbeancompass. Ahoy, Leonard! Compass , wewelcomenewadvertisersXMarineofGrenada,on MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 started its annual “Just a couple of the many improve- “Just a couple of the many For more information on Grenada Super Servant 4 dinghy dock, ensuring safe and con- dinghy dock, for both clients and venient access visitors. The upgrade also includes reinforcement of the boatyard’s seawall and installation of three stern-to service berths, complete with utilities. Yardments on the to-do list,” says futureManager Jason Fletcher. “The thelooks bright and we’re enjoying journey with our customers.” Marine see ad on page 47. is one of DYT’s owned and operated “float-on/float-off” yacht carri-

Upgrades at Grenada Marine Upgrades at Grenada a new floating include construction of upgrades at Grenada Marine Recent facility Sea Hawk-Sponsored Regattas Energize the Caribbean Sea Hawk-Sponsored Regattas Antigua’s Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta The St. Maarten Heineken Regatta, sponsors who make this all possible through funding and “Sea Hawk is one of many 23. For more information on Sea Hawk Paint see ad on page New Spa Opens at Port Louis Marina, Grenada air conditioned, state-of- Spice Isle Retreat Spa recently welcomed clients to their Owner Michelle Phillip was and Spa Services Spice Isle Retreat Spa’s comprehensive range of Hairdressing at half price on Mondays By way of introduction, spa services are being offered For more information on Spice Isle Retreat Spa visit www.spiceisleretreat.com. 13. For more information on Port Louis Marina see ad on page Technical Yacht Services in Grenada second year of operation X Marine Yacht Services are pleased to announce their marine mechanic work- Their enlarged and improved workshops offer a dedicated Technical Manager Nicholas Roelens says, “We are constantly pushing the bound- X Marine has recently designed and constructed a prototype fixed-keel 16-foot Operations Manager Mark Solomon says, “We are excited that, having proven that X Marine’s main objective is to exceed expectations and to find new challenges For more information on X Marine Yacht Services see ad on page 45. Dockwise Yacht Transport Around the World Whether transporting 50-foot sport fishing boats or 250-foot luxury yachts, Dockwise In early February, DYT’s 556-foot (169.49 meter)

Super Servant 4 BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS and Grenada Sailing Week were some of the outstanding events sponsored by Sea were some of the outstanding events sponsored by Sea and Grenada Sailing Week Hawk Paints so far this year. who, together with Tommy Craft, represented materials,” reported Denis Laesker Heineken Regatta. “We donate thousands of dollars Sea Hawk at the St. Maarten who keep these events for logos and uniforms for the judges, staff and volunteers going so the boats come back each year.” offering new-to-the-island the-art Salon and Spa in Grenada’s Port Louis Marina, Moroccan oil and TIGI Bed products such as Dermalogica skin care, Argan Secret Head, as well as Paul Mitchell, Tea Tree and Mitch for Men. trained by Vidal Sassoon in London and brings with her 21 years of spa and salon experi- ence. She is also a qualified therapist and has a BSc. (Hons) degree in Nutrition. Spice Isle Retreat Spa’s custom-built facility at the Peter de Savary offers a calm and seclud- development in Port Louis, with its private internal garden, services with professional ed environment where the focus is on offering quality products in a relaxing atmosphere. therapies, nail treatments, includes hair styling and weaving, facials, massage, body Packages that make the ideal manicures, pedicures, waxing and a selection of Spa gift for someone special. feel at this premium spa. only. Treat yourself and re-vitalize the way you look and Grenada. They now offering technical yacht services on the lagoon, St. Georges, have a team of 16 staff offering a wide range of services. phone communications shop, an electrical facility dealing with electronics, satellite to their workshop, creating and water-makers. They have added 2,400 square feet Caribbean. X Marine offers a the largest dedicated composite shop in the Southern infusion, vacuum bagging full range of construction and fabrication techniques, materials such as carbon and post curing, working with fiberglass and more exotic fiber, Kevlar, vinylester and epoxy resins. aries to offer new services and facilities. If we don’t have the tools in Grenada, we build them or buy them. We are not afraid to go the extra mile to offer our custom- ers a top-quality repair or finish. It’s the philosophy of X Marine since our inception last year.” racing dinghy. This manufacture of a new one-design class in Grenada offers a plat- form for continued training for Optimist sailors and match racing. The XM16 is a min- iature race yacht, offering competitive tuning and rigorous demands. They have orders for three and this will start a new one-design fleet. the boat was competitive during the Grenada Sailing Week, other parties have invested with us to make this project a reality. We are now able to offer training for youngsters to enable them to become more competitive on the world sailing circuit.” and apply the dedication, design and energy to ensure that they are completed on time, within budget. They are always looking for new staff members to join their young, dynamic team. Yacht Transport (DYT) and its fleet of semi-submersible ships give clients access to many of the world’s major shipping ports, which in turn lead to some of the most desirable travel destinations around the globe. passage to Australia and New Zealand, a sailing that originated in Palma de Mallorca in late November, 2012 and stopped in Le Marin, Martinique on its way to the South Pacific. ers. It uses a unique de-ballasting process that allows seawater to flood the ship’s dock bay to a draft required by the yachts to safely motor in from the stern of the ship. —Continued on page 45 MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 http://sailorsforthesea.org/programs-and-projects/clean-regattas.aspx. use ofwaterbottlesandotherinitiatives.” the wayinwhichthisparticularregatta hastakentoenvironmentallyfriendly Sea CleanRegattaProgram.Iknowthat SailorsfortheSeaisverypleasedwith Spring Regattaisonceagainbeingawarded aGoldawardfromSailorsforthe Committee, thevillageorganizersand sponsors. cerned. Everyonedoesafantasticjob: TheRBVIYachtClub,theRegatta the BVI.It’spremiereeventasfarlocalsailingprogrammeiscon- first evertobecarbonneutral.” a dozenregattasworldwidetohavedonethat,andtheSpringRegattawas the means theyareatGoldlevel.Astunningachievement!Therefewerthanhalf best practicesandtheBVISpringRegattahasreachedmorethan15,which our goalistohelpallregattasreducetheirenvironmentalfootprint.Wehave 19 tices atSailorsfortheSea,wherewearefocusedonoceanconservationand the BVI. sustainably tomakesurethatwe’renotimpactingontheplanetrighthere in started hereintheBritishVirginislandswithlocalrecyclingandworking inspired tooffsetitsowncarbonneutralityandthat’sabigstretch.But,it all around theworldwereinspiredbythis.TheAmerica’sCup,forexample,was year, theBVISpringRegattaoffsetalloftheircarbon,andotherregattas carbon neutral! the SeaCleanRegattaProgram—world’sfirstregattatobedeemed made ofcoral. buying orcatchinganyreeffish,andnotpurchasingjewelryotheritems ment” ofreefs. perature andoceanacidification.Buthesaysthatcan’tjustifythe“abandon- coral reefsispoorinthefaceofcurrentthreatsandprojectedincreasestem- Conservancy’s Caribbeanprogram,acknowledgesthatthelong-termoutlookfor thing will—anewsortofecosystem,”hesaid. reef regionsafterthereefsaregone.“Thejustwon’tbethere,butsome- away fromwhatshouldberesearchers’mainfocus,whichistodowith in Canberra,arguesthatcoralrestorationactuallydivertsscarceresources and adjunctprofessorofresourcemanagementatAustralianNationalUniversity erating forcesthatarecausingreefstocollapse.RogerBradbury,anecologist herbivore thatgrazesonalgaeandseaweedssmothercoral. reef intheWesternHemisphere,hasbannedharvestingofparrotfish,an taking actiontoprotectkeyspeciesonthereefs.Belize,withlargestbarrier a methodthathasbeenusedinIndonesiaandMalaysia. efforts byfeedinglow-voltageelectricitytoyoungcoraltryandspurgrowth, stressed reefs,hasassistedBonaireinsettingupcoralnurseries. Florida-based CoralRestorationFoundation,apioneerineffortstorevitalize ments of Ecological FoundationinthetownofPuntaCanahasplantedsome1,200frag- with theaidofUSstimulusmoney.InDominicanRepublic,Puntacana some 2,500coralcoloniesandtransplantedover1,000fragmentstolocalreefs for coral. and elkhorncoralspecies,canboostratesofrecoveryimprovetheoutlook this work,whichisfocusedontheregion’sfastgrowingbutthreatenedstaghorn ments onconcretepedestalsplacedtheoceanfloor.Advocatesbelievethat ready tobeplantedontoreefs.Otherconservationspecialistsgrowcoralfrag- the stringsuntilpiecesofcoralwithbeginningsantler-likebranchesare 50 percentinthe1970s. coverage onCaribbeanreefsisdowntoanaverageofjusteightpercent,from verge ofbeingexterminated,withpotentialimpactsonmillionspeople. Australia’s UniversityofQueenslandsaysthatmanyCaribbeanreefsareonthe report fromateamofinternationalresearchersconductingstudywith and provideanirreplaceablefoodsource. fishing industries.InJamaicaalone,fisheriessupportupto20,000fishermen storm surgeandareessentialtotheregion’smultibillion-dollartourism (20,720 squarekilometres)ofcoralreefsthatprotectfragilecoastlinesfrom house gases. over, asaconsequenceofclimatechangeandoceanacidificationduetogreen- and warmingoceanwaters.Threatstocoralareexpectedintensify,more- in seriousdecline,degradedbyoverfishing,pollution,coastaldevelopment “seeding” reefs. growing coralspeciestotryreversethedeclineofCaribbeancoralsby Caribbean —Continuedonnextpage For moreinformationonthe CleanRegattaProgramvisit “The environmentisimportanttoallof usintheBVI.I’mpleasedthatBVI BVI GovernorBoydMcClearysays,“TheSpringRegattaisverymuchpart of “Every yeartheSpringRegattabettersitself.Wehavebestmanagementprac- Dan Pingaro,CEOofSailorsfortheSeaCleanRegattaProgram,says,“Last The BVISpringRegattahasbeenawardedaGoldCertificatebySailorsfor BVI: FirstCarbonNeutralRegattaonthePlanet! Meanwhile wecanallgivereefsabreakbynotanchoringonornearthem, Meanwhile, PhilKramer,amarinegeologistwhoisdirectorofTheNature Some coralexpertssayrestorationeffortsdon’taddresstheunderlying,accel- In tandemwiththevariousrestorationefforts,someregionalgovernmentsare In southernJamaica,meanwhile,researchersareboostingtheirrestoration Scientists withTheNatureConservancyintheUSVirginIslandshavereared According totheInternationalUnionforConservationofNature,livecoral But Caribbeancoralhasdeterioratedsobadlyinrecentyearsthatanew The Caribbeanisespeciallyvulnerable,withnearly8,000squaremiles Across theglobe,reefsthathaveprovenresilientforthousandsofyearsare Conservationists onislandsfromJamaicatoBonaireareplantingfast- Reef Decline:IsCoral‘Seeding’theAnswer? Acropora coral,agenusthatincludesstaghornandelkhorn.The ECO These fragments grow on These fragmentsgrowon from themonstrings. horn coralsuspended small fragmentsofstag- of buoysandweightswith coral nurseriesconsisting business, useslow-tech vate coralrestoration region’s firstandonlypri- that billsitselfasthe Caribbean, acompany decline, Seascape In responsetothis -News MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 (507) 757 8008 NEW VISITORS BOCAS DEL TORO, PANAMA BOCAS DEL TORO, additional discounts for longer stays. [email protected] BOOK YOUR BERTH BOOK YOUR IN A RAINFOREST RESORT SETTING. www.redfrogbeachmarina.com HURRICANE-FREE CARIBBEAN WATERS HURRICANE-FREE CARIBBEAN WATERS Rates as low as $11 per foot per month with as low as $11 per foot per month with Rates Enjoy 5 nights of free dockage when you when you Enjoy 5 nights of free dockage stay from February through August 2013! stay from February

EPIC . . We love to step in and play Mother There will also be a focus on environ- There will also be a focus March From February 28th through coral reef and mangrove conservation in mangrove conservation coral reef and St. Vincent & the Grenada and a regional Grenadines. This will include of the networking meeting for members park staff network, training for marine and han- and local allies in the capture and enhance- dling of invasive lionfish, maintenance ment of procedures for the of moorings. mental education and communications The partici- in support of conservation. the Tobago pating marine parks include Marine Cays Marine Park, the Mustique Island/ Conservation Area, the Sandy Area in Oyster Bed Marine Protected Carriacou and the Moliniere/Beausejour Grenada. Marine Protected Area in CHRIS DOYLE Obviously, avoid anchoring on corals and Seabird Breeding Atlas of the Lesser Antilles . If you’re walking on

Seabird Breeding Atlas of the Lesser Antilles You can help with research efforts by reporting bird . Do not walk dogs (or cats or any domestic animals) on on Do not walk dogs (or cats or any domestic animals) Continued from previous page Continued from Find out more about EPIC’s seabird conservation work, seabird ecology, tips • TAKE CARE WHEN ANCHORING CARE WHEN • TAKE If you observe people harvesting seabirds or their eggs and chicks, you can • BE A SUPER SLEUTH A • BE • FINALLY, ENJOY! Each of the 21 different seabird species that breed • FINALLY, ENJOY! Each of the 21 different seabird species that breed • LET NATURE LOOK AFTER THE BIRDS. AFTER LOOK NATURE • LET • GIVE BIRDS THEIR SPACE. • GIVE BIRDS It’s a struggle for seabirds to keep the tempera- • PACK UP YOUR PET. UP • PACK With so many seabirds now arriving to raise the next generation, the Lowries With so many seabirds now arriving to raise the next For more information please contact SusGren at [email protected]. How to Be a Good Seabird Neighbor often raucous breeding Millions of seabirds have begun their amazing and The project, implemented by the Sustainable Grenadines Inc. (SusGren) with The project, implemented by the Sustainable Grenadines Thanks to new cooperation with the Organization of American States (OAS) in of American States cooperation with the Organization Thanks to new by using a large base The three-dimensional map of Union Island was built More Support for MPAs on the Grenada Bank for MPAs on the Grenada More Support and their (MPAs) of the Grenadines the marine protected areas Two years ago, on identification, and more in the report your sightings to EPIC at [email protected]. EPIC is actively collect- ing data on this topic and working on community-based management solutions. Nature but, truth be told, she’s been at it for a few millennia and knows a thing or two about her brood! If people find a chick alone, the best thing to do in the vast majority of cases is to leave it alone. It’s likely that the parent is close, watching and waiting, or has gone hunting to bring food back for the chick. In some cases (i.e. with tropicbirds) the chick needs to spend a day or two losing its protective fat before it can fly — being alone is part of the natural process. sightings via eBird.org. This will assist researchers in learning more about where seabirds travel at sea and locate new breeding colonies. seagrass beds. Both are important habitats that promote feeding areas for hun- gry parent seabirds. Their calorific requirement is high year-round, but espe- cially during breeding and nesting periods. Careful anchoring is essential to good yachting etiquette, anyway! in the Caribbean has a unique life story. The flocks offer extraordinary in the Caribbean has a unique life story. The flocks offer extraordinary sights when they arrive on the islands to breed. Let’s respect their remain- ing safe havens and make sure there will be many more generations of spectacular seabirds! Purchase it at www.epicislands.org/programs/conservation-of-key-marine- and-bird-habitats/5-seabird-breeding-atlas-of-the-lesser-antilles. ture of eggs consistent in the tropics. You have about five minutes to vacate the area before the eggs will boil in the hot Caribbean sun. seabird islands, intentionally or otherwise. They cause commotion that inter- seabird islands, intentionally or otherwise. They cause feres with breeding and nesting. They are a foe to seabirds, who have been forced to evolve coping skills. Plus, researchers like us have a habit of putting rat traps out to monitor inva- sive species. These can hurt when triggered on Fido’s nose! an island and birds are screeching above your head, going nuts, it’s likely you have stumbled upon a breeding colony. Immediately return the way you came. Carefully avoid stepping on nests or camouflaged eggs. The birds will not return to their nests when you are around. — want to provide a few tips on being a good seabird neighbor. want to provide a few tips on being a good seabird season here in the Caribbean. Katharine and David Lowrie sailed throughout season here in the Caribbean. Katharine and David on every island in the Lesser the region, documenting seabird breeding colonies in the Caribbean (EPIC). Antilles to provide data for Environmental Protection They recently published the support from the SVG government, saw more than a hundred community mem- support from the SVG government, saw more than supported by The Nature bers adding their information. The project has been the Technical Centre for Conservancy, At the Water’s Edge project and of Participatory 3D Agriculture and Rural Cooperation. The introduction October 2012. Modelling in the Caribbean took place in Tobago in support of migratory species in the Caribbean in 2013, the Grenadines Network in 2013, the Grenadines species in the Caribbean support of migratory practices for to share best management Areas will continue of Marine Protected UISS trace out each contour map of the island and then having students of the on a sheet of four-by-eight- line on the map. Each contour line was then printed cut out and glued on top of foot cardboard. The sheets of cardboard were then on each other, tissue each other. After all the sheets of cardboard were layered and painted white to allow paper was glued all over the map for smoothness with information using community members to come in and populate the model features on the map. pins, yarns and different colours to identify the different partner agencies formed a network to collaborate for effective management and to for effective management formed a network to collaborate partner agencies resources.the sustainable use of marine in conservation and share experiences Centre on Union Island, community members, rep- 8th at the Ashton Resource organizations in the Caribbean and students from resentatives from different Union Island Secondary School (UISS) were engaged the Geography class of the Three Dimensional in a mapping exercise. The process is known as participatory together and empowers Modeling or P3DM. It is a tool that brings communities natural resources, culture them to make decisions relating to their livelihoods, coming up with solutions to and heritage with regards to climate change and help them adapt. MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 lent sailing;wecouldn’thaveaskedforanything success: beautifulboats,greatconditionsandexcel- inaugural editionoftheeventhasbeenaresounding viding manychallenges.” stunning placetosail.Thewindisalwaysshifting,pro- BVI venue,“Itisanabsolutelyspectacularplace,a under 18.29metres). feet) andtheSwan42 Mad and RolextimepiecesweretheSwan601 days ofsailingcompetition. (YCCS), whichconcludedonMarch15thafterfour Caribbean, hostedbytheYachtClubCostaSmeralda Gorda, BVIforthefirst-everRolexSwanCup nearly tencountriesandterritories,gatheredinVirgin NEWS REGATTA YCCS CommodoreRiccardoBonadeosays,“The Tony Rey,tacticianon Recipients oftheRolexSwanCupCaribbeanTrophy More than20Nautor’sSwanyachts,representing First-Ever RolexSwanCupCaribbeanaHit USAinClassA(foryachtsover18.29metres/60 Arethusa Stark RavingMad inClassB(yachts

, saidofthe Stark Raving ROLEX / CARLO BORLENGHI CARLO / ROLEX swapped winsthroughoutthedaywithfinalrace In thefive-boatOptiWhiteClass,leaders Nathan SmithandLukeBacon,bothfromSt.Maarten. BVI sailedanear-perfectseriestoassurefirstover biggest classofallwith12entries,RayneDufffromthe this mostinternationalofallclasses.InOptiBlue,the from AnguillaandJulienReboulletSt.Barthsin St. MaartensailedaperfectseriestobeatJimmyJalle Lam HugoandcrewfromSt.Maarten. firming secondplaceonlyinthelastrace,aheadof end withKhawmiHughesandcrewfromAnguillacon- but againsecondandthirdwerefoughtouttothe and hiscrewsailedanear-faultlessseriestotakefirst, into thereachingfinish.OscarLangeniusofSweden increased, thefourteamsflewaroundcourseand gled tousetheirspinnakers,butasthewind second justaheadofBodineBeentjes. lead bydiscardingthefirstresultofdaytotake ond andthirdwastight,withHervéBrinonlytakingthe Barths andtwofromAnguilla.Thecompetitionforsec- which wascomplementedbyfivesailorsfromSt. Paxton andcrewinthird. team bestingCarlosBeckmanandfamily,leavingIan mined thewinnerbyatie-break,withRobbieFerron’s the LSRClass,whereseventhandfinalracedeter- the leaderswerelookinghardtobeat—exceptin had beensailedforeachclasstoensureadiscard, better. Bytheafternoonsession,whenenoughraces to anear-perfect11knots,theracinggotbetterand improved lateinthemorningwithbreezesettling six classesinthemorningsession,butasconditions edition, heldMarch16th,challengedthesailorsin St. Maarten. the thirdbiggestmixed-fleetregattaheldon Powerade Multi-ClassRegattahasestablisheditselfas of thefleettoVirginGordaintwoyears’time.” raderie wearealreadylookingforwardtothereturn After thiswonderfulweekofsportsmanshipandcama- atmosphere andthisnewregattaisnoexception. with RolexandNautor’sSwanalwayshaveaspecial more. TheeventsthattheCluborganizestogether

In thethree-boatOptiRedfleet,LeonardoKnolfrom In thelightairoffirstraces,RSVisionsstrug- Local sailorRhôneFindlaydominatedtheLaserClass, The shifty,sometimesficklebreezesduringthe2013 With 43teamsfromfivecountries,theannual Big PoweradeMulti-ClassRegatta,St.Maarten For fullresultsvisitwww.yccsresults.com. SAILMOONSHADOW.COM held March20ththrough23rdinVirginGorda,BVI. Piana CaribbeanSuperyachtRegatta&Rendezvous numerous tomention,fortheirtimeandassistance. coordinating thisevent,andthanksallvolunteers,too next year. this event’ssuccesswillensureanevenbiggerturnout out attheSintMaartenYachtClub,itwasclearthat competitors shirtsprovidedbyPowerade,weregiven second, andKevinTjadefromSt.Maarteninthird. Barths infirst,Jean-BaptisteAubinfromSt. deciding allthreetopspots:MagrasKeivanfromSt. race meantthattheclassicketch International MediaTrophy.InDivisionB,astrongthird overall, DivisionA’scruisingdivision,andtheBoat race oncorrectedtimetosecurethewininDivisionA —Continuedonnextpage and builtatHarryNevinsboatyardinNewYork. fourth. in thefinaltwodaysofracingafterstartingwitha metres (73.5feet)—wonDivisionBbyscoringbullets — theoldestandsmallestboatinfleetat22.4 Ed andMartyKane,ownersofthe63-year-old The 45-metreFitzroy A fleetof20sailingsuperyachtsracedattheLoro Classic S&S The BoardoftheSMYCthanksMaaikeandNeilfor As theprizesandgoodies,includingsportsdrinks For fullresultsvisitwww.yccsresults.com. Bolero Bolero wasdesignedbySparkman&Stephens ShinesatSuperyachtRegatta Salperton nailed a bullet in the last nailedabulletinthelast Bolero tooktheseries. Bolero

MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 , have raced in all 40 . “The first two races today races today . “The first two , Richard Goransson, Sweden, 35 , Olson 30, Kevin Rowlette, BVI, 20 Orion Pipedream , Swan 56, Jack Desmond, USA, 20 , J/122, Sergio Sagramoso, Puerto Rico, 10 , J/120, Richard Wesslund, USA, 8 , J/105, Jonathan Lipuscek, Puerto Rico, 23 , J/100, Robert W Armstrong, USVI, 14 , Jason Carroll, USA, 31 , Dalton DeVos, USA, 27 points . “In the early ’70s, when Rolex started, I started, I . “In the early ’70s, when Rolex Delta ARGO El Ocaso White Rhino Bad Girl Rushin Rowlette Lazy Dog Inga from Sweden Dark Star The St. Thomas Yacht Club-hosted IRR is the oldest The St. Thomas Yacht Club-hosted For more information, results and video highlights pro- Melges 32 (One Design - 9 Boats) 1) Puerto Rico’s Efrain ‘Fraito’ Lugo picked up his up his Efrain ‘Fraito’ Lugo picked Puerto Rico’s team of St. Thomas’ It was the father-and-son was awarded the Lastly, the BVI’s Peter Haycraft 2) 3) CSA - Racing 1 (CSA - 9 Boats) 1) 2) 3) CSA - Racing 2 (CSA - 11 Boats) 1) 2) 3) IRRs. “I have only raced 39,” says Haycraft, 80, who will IRRs. “I have only raced 39,” weekend’s BVI Spring retire from racing after next son, Chris, sailed the Regatta & Sailing Festival. “My won a Rolex. This regat- boat the year I didn’t and he ta is always great fun.” regatta in Rolex’s portfolio of international sailing events and dates back to 1974. duced by T2P TV, visit: www.rolexcupregatta.com. Visit the IRR on Facebook and follow the action on Twitter at: #irr40. focused and the racing exciting.” focused and in the IC-24 This year, it was tenth Rolex timepiece. all the kids from Puerto Rico, and Class. “The boats says class really competitive,” here, make this Lugo, who drives advantage. too well and we lost our we didn’t do all the we concentrated on doing The last race work and good starts, good crew right things like boat speed.” Holmberg that champi- John and 14-year-old Kai aboard their Hobie 16, oned the Beach Cat Class Humbug the exact same thing,” was his (Kai’s) age doing duo has been sailing explains John Holmberg. The representing the US together since 2010, including American and at the Central “We have a lot of fun. Caribbean Games in 2010. you to learn a Fast is fun. Plus, multihulls allow whole other type of sailing.” boats, including his Commodore’s Trophy. Haycraft’s current Sirena 38, —Continued on next page Bad Three . The sec- and in the CSA Crystal , which finished ,” explains Puerto Crystal took home the prize. Kid-power prevailed in Kid-power prevailed A double-bullet day CSA Racing 2. St. Croix’s CSA Racing 2. a crew Jack Bishop, with of 14- to 17-year-old sail- ors aboard the J/100 Girl “The boat was out of the water for a few years. The owner, Rob Armstrong, wanted to get it back in — primarily so the kids could sail,” says Bishop, the lone adult, who drove. “We finished the first and second days with a one-point lead. Today, it was good crew work and staying out of the currents that paid off.” secured the lead for the J/39 Non-Spinnaker Class. “The first day we were in a three-way tie for first with Three Harkoms Paladin

STYC / INGRID ABERY Lupa of London had to give us time, we ended . “Getting into clear lanes and around . “Getting into . We got another two firsts and that put the Delta Donnybrook In the sleek-sailing IRC Class, it was the UK’s Jeremy 21-year-old Dalton DeVos, of Grand Rapids, Michigan, DeVos, of Grand Rapids, 21-year-old Dalton the finish, lead straight through to held his first-day aboard used all fleet first was the formula we the top of the got his love of worked,” says DeVos, who three days. It took Dalton father, Doug DeVos, who sailing from his one-design 35s and 48s. sailing aboard Harkoms nail in their coffin.” Pilkington’s Baltic 78, with a flawless series of six wins. “We’ve always cruised, but this season we decided to race,” says Pilkington. “We came to the Rolex because of its repu- tation, the prominence of the event, and good boats that put us through our paces. For example, even though up match racing them on the course in real time. It’s something you can’t always expect. It keeps the crew Rico’s Jerome O’Neill, who skippered ond day, we won the only race of the day and it eked us into first. Our mission today was to cover . El Lazy Dog , sums up the fun this way: “After three days Continued from previous page Continued from The 72-boat fleet with crews hailing from the Youth triumphed in the Melges 32 Class, where It’s All About Time at St. Thomas’s 40th Rolex It’s All About Time final day break time on the third and It was make or Ocaso and six races total, it came down to the last race on the last day to determine the winner in our class. In the last race, we were in a dead heat with Sometimes we were in the lead, and other times they were. It was a real emotional roller coaster, but we just hung in there. We stayed on it and we won.” Caribbean, US and Europe, reveled in the 12 to 15 knots of breeze under clear sunny skies. The one- design Melges 32 Class and the one-design IC-24 Class along with the beach cats both competed on their own one-design courses, while the rest of the fleet raced round the islands in Pillsbury Sound. of racing at the 40th International Rolex Regatta (IRR), 40th International Rolex Regatta of racing at the USVI. Rick through 24th in St. Thomas, held March 22nd timepiece pocketed a precision Rolex Wesslund, who his J/120, in CSA Racing 1 aboard for his class win — MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 — Netherlands, 13 wind duringthemonthsofJulyandAugust. to adifferentdate,mainlybecauseofthelack pants petitionedthisyearfortheeventtobemoved June 2nd,2013atthebeachofSorobon.Thepartici- Championship 2013willrunfromMay31stthrough 1) CSA -Non-Spinnaker(CSA10Boats) 2) 3) 3) 2) 1) IRC (IRC-5Boats) 1) Beach Cats(Portsmouth-8Boats) 3) 2) 1) IC-24 (OneDesign-16Boats) 3) 2) Bonaire’s ninthProKidsBonaireSlalom&Freestyle ProKids BonaireSlalom&FreestyleChampsinMay Continued frompreviouspage Husaria Three Harkoms Crystal Paladin Island WaterWorld Lupa ofLondon Humbug Blame itonRhea Island Sol Orion Cachondo Magic Bus meet youreveryneed.Investinthemarineindustry’s bestproducts–chooseNorthernLights. line upfrom5-500kW, NorthernLightshasthepowersolutionthatisrightforyou,withafullCaribbeanservicenetworkto Northern Lightsmarinegeneratorsetsprovidethereliablepowerrequiredforyourboat’s mostcriticalcomponents.With a , FraitoLugo,PuertoRico,38 , J/39,JeromeO’Neill,PuertoRico,8 , Farr47,KrzysztofKaminski/IrekZubko,USA,17 , J/36,StanfordJoines,USVI,21 , Hobie16,JohnHolmberg,USVI,25 , Hobie16,PaulStoeken,USVI,28 Clean Power. ClearAir. Complete Comfort. , PhillipShannon,USVI,54 , MarcoTeixidor,PuertoRico,55 , Oceanis440Mod,TimSnow,USVI,20 , Baltic78,JeremyPilkington,UK,6 , Nacra20,MarkChong,USVI,31 , Swan45,PeterHoutzagers, www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com extremely valued.ThanksgoparticularlytoNicholas continued involvementandencouragementis and LaserClasses. age fromsixto18yearsracedinOptimist,Mosquito Gouyave SailingSchool.Nineteensailorsrangingin Sailing Association,GrenadaYachtCluband ported bytheGrenadaSailingFestival, racing skills. allowed theyoungsailorstoshowtheircompetitive Sailing Championship.Near-perfectconditions Anse BayonMarch23rdtheBudgetMarineJunior Windsurfing Bonaire. Facebook page,becomeafanandfollowProkids prokidsfreestyle.com. Youcanalsovisittheir as fouryears. the youngstersstartedwindsurfingatagesasyoung comes participantsfromallovertheworld.Someof from 12noonuntillateintheafternoon. Registration daywillbeonFriday,May31st,starting The event,sponsoredbyBudgetMarine,wassup- Grenada’s juniorsailorstooktothewaterinGrand Impressive JuniorSailingActioninGrenada For moreinformationandtoregistervisitwww. This event,dedicatedtotheyouthofisland,wel- Junior Sailingandits long-term supporterof company hasbeena of thisevent.The their titlesponsorship Budget Marinefor nizers especiallythank race days.Theorga- growing calendarof event, andpartofa second JuniorSailing the lastrace. places rightupuntil tainty aboutfinal and therewasuncer- Michael McQueen, Kevin Banfieldand nization ofinstructors disciplined raceorga- races, thankstothe tight acrossseven This wastheyear’s Competition was —Continuedonpage45 Festival’s Facebookpage. 2014. Formoreinformation,followGrenadaSailing Spring Water,GrenadaBottlingLtdandJuicyCool. Bryden &MinorswithOrchardJuice,GlenelgNatural ments wereprovidedbyTheVictoryBar&Restaurant, vided theuniquehand-madetrophies,andrefresh- courses. ReneFroehlich,SailingSchoolGrenada,pro- Oscar’s WaterTaxi,inchargeofmarklayingand help andsupport,toOscar,WayneAndrein Jacqui Pascall,GrenadaSailingAssociation,fortheir School; MichaelMcQueen,GrenadaYachtClub;and the HQtent. who workedhardprovidingdrinksandrefreshmentsin boat services,andtoLucillePierreLeraGriffith, George, outonthewateralldayprovidingsafety Special AchievementAward:ShavinJoseph 3) RondelFergusonandChristonHenry 2) DennisBernadineandRomario 1) QwesiPaulandJustinJames Laser Class 3) RalphFrancis 2) NoahBullen 1) BrentMcQueen Optimist Class 3) MichaelChiddick 2) TrevellJames 1) KarzimJames Mosquito Class Plans arenowstartingforanevenbiggereventin Thanks alsogotoKevinBanfield,GouyaveSailing Seagull Yacht ServiceCentreLtd. Marine MaintenanceServices Caribbean DieselRepair Dominica MarineCenter Dockyard ElectricsLtd. Marine PowerServices Inboard DieselService Cay Electronics,Ltd. Trinidad andTobago 767-440-BOAT(2628) US VirginIslands Coral BayMarine All PointsMarine 596-596-78-71-96 Grenada Marine Parts andPower St CroixMarine Tortola, B.V.I. 268-460-1850 268-460-1020 340-775-9912 340-776-6665 340-773-0289 284-494-3494 284-494-2400 284-494-2830 868-634-4272 473-443-1667 599-54-42051 758-450-0552 784-457-3114 Electec, NV St. Maarten St. Vincent Martinique Dominica St. Lucia Marintek Grenada Antigua A1214 MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 Monthly Monthly $/ft/day to your sailing! sailing! your to

Weekly Weekly $/ft/day Daily Daily $/ft/day up to 75 $1.51 $1.36 $1.29 up to 32 to up $0.86 $0.77 $0.73 up to 65 $1.46 $1.31 $1.24 up to 40 $1.08 $0.97 $0.92 up to 50 $1.19 $1.07 $1.01 up to 60 $1.30 $1.17 $1.11 up to 80 $1.84 $1.65 $1.56 up to 100 $1.89 $1.70 $1.61 LOA in feet periods, please contact us for a personalised quote. Multihulls are charged times at 1.5 the standard rate. For yachts above 100 feet LOA, and for bookings of longer High Season May Rates 2013 – to 31 › Water and electricity › Free broadband internet security › 24-hour › Haul-out and technical facilities nearby › restaurant Bar, and swimming pool on-site assistance Berthing › › Only five miles from the international airport WEST INDIES

| TURKEY | Add a bit of spice a bit of Add MALTA MALTA | ITALY ITALY | CYPRUS | Port Louis Marina, Grenada Marina, Louis Port or email [email protected] email or Call Danny Donelan on +1 (473) 435 7431 435 7431 (473) Call Danny Donelan on +1

appointed, full-service marinas in the region. Providing a quintessential Grenadian flavour. activities ashore and afloat. Everything about Grenada of course the rhythms and aromas that exemplify breathtakingdiving, nature reserves and a host of sporting is vibrant – from the crystal clear waters that surround it, the international standards and quality you would associate the most unspoilt cruising destinations in the Caribbean, to the colours of the roofs in the historic and capital, lifestyle. local the Known popularly as ‘the Grenada spice is one island’, of Here you will find secluded coves, scintillating beaches, with Camper & Nicholsons Marinas, Port Louis retains where you and your friends will enjoy a genuine warm welcome from the engaging and fun-loving islanders. WWW.CNMARINAS.COM/PLM ABU DHABI At Port Louis Marina you will experience one of the best MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 able forallthefamily;itisagreatoccasionpeople ashore. TheFestivalhasalaid-backatmospheresuit- )withthelastdayreservedforfun passage races(aRoundTortolaRaceandaraceto tion —dubbedtheSailingFestivalcomprisestwo 31st, hasanunusualtwo-partformat.Thefirstpor- British VirginIslands. Festival —thebiggestsportingeventheldin 42nd runningoftheBVISpringRegatta&Sailing islands, PuertoRico,AntiguaandSt.Barthsatthe based counterpartsfromtheUSandBritishVirgin UK, SouthAfricaandRussiajoinedtheirCaribbean- Netherlands, Belgium,Luxembourg,Australia,the The event,heldthisyearfromMarch25ththrough Yacht racersfromtheUSA,Canada,Germany, Draws InternationalCrowd Unique EventFormat XdciVXi5XVgV^WZ"bVg^cZ#[g by LouayHabib 2013 BVISPRINGREGATTA&SAILINGFESTIVAL HeZX^Va^hih G><<>C<":A:8IGDC>8":C:GC:GN  VcY^chiVaaVi^dcd[YZk^XZh# bV^ciZcVcXZhjeea^Zh V[iZg"hVaZhhZgk^XZ! h]^eh!WjiVahd^ccVji^XVa heZX^Va^oZY^cZfj^ebZci[dg h]^eX]VcYaZg^cBVgi^c^fjZ 8VgV^WZBVg^cZ HE:8>6AEG>8:;DGG:;>I the monohullRoundTortolaRacerecordbynearly 82, competing intheFestival,PeterCorr’sAustralianAlia and havingtodoarestartboot,thelargestboat Despite havingonlyeightknotsofwindatthestart, styles ofcompetition. of racingorjustafewdaysinonetwodifferent time commitment,allowingthemtohaveawholeweek Caribbean, whichallowsparticipantsflexibilityintheir BVI SpringRegatta.Thisisauniqueformatinthe before themorecompetitiveracingkicksoffwith experienced sailorstoputinsometimeonthewater new toyachtracinggetsomeexperienceandfor The Festival’sfirstracegotthingsoffwithabang. The BVISailingFestival Aiyana , usedarisingbreezetothefull,shattering BVgi^c^fjZ;L> ^hV IZa/ *.+%*.+,)-%(( Vindjg "AVWZafjVa^in "CZlZfj^eeZYldg`h]deh "8^k^agZhedch^W^a^in ":meZg^ZcXZYegd[Zhh^dccVahiV[[ "=^\]aZkZad[hZgk^XZ "L^YZhidX`d[heVgZeVgih

"AZBVg^cBVg^cV ALL PHOTOS: BVI SPRING REGATTA / TODD VAN SICKLE VAN TODD / REGATTA SPRING BVI PHOTOS: ALL hZgk^XZ —Continuedonnextpage Willy T night onNormanIsland,nodoubtvisitingthefamous after thefestivities,butagoodnumberstayed Island started.ManyyachtsreturnedtoNannyCay first yachttofinishandgetthepartyonNorman Mathew Barker.The1930-vintageclassicwasthe vintage sloop the overallhonoursshouldhavegonetobeautiful beachside party.Therewereprizesforeachclassbut arriving atNormanIslandenmassforafantastic The pursuitracewenttoplanwithmostoftheyachts yachts takingturnstostartaccordingtheirspeed. to NormanIslandwithapursuitstylestart of champagne. crew dinner—forall15ofthem!plusajeroboam Cay Resort&Marinaofferedthetriumphant minutes and44secondsforthe37-milecourse.Nanny half anhourtosetanewrecordofthreehours,29 was dubbed‘BestBVIBoat’oftheRegatta Left: SpinnakerClass3victor,theMelges32 Racing Iwin Above: TheJ/122 The seconddayofracingwasashortpassagerace bar! The BluePeter, lll#XVgV^WZ"bVg^cZ#[g Lazy Dog rompedtoaSpinnaker skipperedbyBriton INTAC Aiyana ,

MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 SAVE ON ON SAVE LIGHT MAINTENANCE LIGHT MAINTENANCE PALMA DE MALLORCA PALMA IDEAL FOR YACHT OWNERS WITH OWNERS WITH IDEAL FOR YACHT ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY—CUTS ON ON FRIENDLY—CUTS ENVIRONMENTALLY E-mail: [email protected] LESS WEAR AND TEAR ON YACHT LESS WEAR AND TEAR ON YACHT MAINTAIN RESALE VALUE RESALE VALUE MAINTAIN PORT EVERGLADES PORT RELIABLE SET SCHEDULES It is interesting to note that the BVI Spring Regatta and For full results visit www.bvispringregatta.org Virgin Islands’ Premier, Dr. the Honourable D. Orlando Smith, OBE, was the guest of honour, along with repre- sentatives from all of the event’s top sponsors. Dr. Smith presented the Best BVI Boat award to Mark Plaxton’s Team INTAC. Chief Judge Tom Rinda accepted the Guy Eldridge Award for Spirit and Enthusiasm, awarded posthumously to Arthur J. “Tuna” Wullschleger. Sailing Festival attracted approximately the same number of boats as last year, with the same broadly international mix, while some other regattas in the area are struggling for entries and relying on local boats to make up the num- bers. There is no doubt that this regatta has gathered momentum in recent years, and the support of the tourist board and local businesses is a big reason for that. TOULON NEWPORT NEWPORT : Tel. +596 596 741 507 : Tel. GIVE CREW A VACATION BREAK GIVE CREW A VACATION WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM Adress: Port de Plaisance, Boulevard Allegre, 97290 Le Marin Allegre, Port de Plaisance, Boulevard Adress: UPCOMING CARIBBEAN SAILINGS ST. THOMAS ST. MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE : DYT Martinique : Stop by the office and Nadine will be happy to provide you with an obligation-free quote! Stop by the office APRIL, 2013 JUNE, 2013 won the class by two

CARBON EMISSIONS CHARTER COMMITMENTS CHARTER BENEFITS OF SHIPPING YOUR YACHT WITH DYT BENEFITS OF SHIPPING YOUR YACHT OFF ON, FLOAT SAFEST LOADING METHOD—FLOAT ENGINE HOURS, MAINTENANCE, AND FUEL COSTS IS UNDERWAY POSSIBLE WHILE YACHT editor Peter Nielson, rac- Photo by Onne van der Wal der van Onne by Photo Merlin Kief, . It was great battle between the a BVI-based Sail Magazine Dundee dominated the crew celebrates

Windemon,

Right: Big crew, big win! Aiyana’s a record-breaking Round Tortola win in the Festival In Bareboat 2, The BVI Spring Regatta Awards Ceremony was held at ning wasn’t that important. “We are a group of friends ning wasn’t that important. “We are a group of friends who come over from Holland to enjoy sailing in the Caribbean and we have absolutely loved coming to these beautiful islands, everybody has been so friend- ly, it just doesn’t get better. Especially as it is freezing cold in Holland right now!” ing the Jeanneau 41 points from Radboud Crul’s all-Dutch team on the Jeanneau 44 two, who were barely more than a few boat lengths apart in every race. John Pinheiro’s American team, The Whalers from New Bedford Yacht Club, took third on another Jeanneau 41. the Regatta Village at Nanny Cay Marina. The British Above: Tartan 10, Regatta’s Spinnaker Racing 2 El , had over which which Defiance The race was The race was

Paladin, , won Spinnaker firmly dominated Shamrock VII was also awarded , sailed well all week, INTAC Lazy Dog Windemon Although Christian Reynolds’

Northern Child , skippered by Mark Plaxton, scoring INTAC , of the hometown Royal BVI Yacht Club, , of the hometown Royal Yacht at Rest, Mind at Ease Yacht , racing in 11 classes under CSA and one- , racing in 11 classes under , had a collision on the start line, outing them , had a collision on the start Continued from previous page Continued from Spinnaker Racing 3 was all Melges, with the BVI-based The Bareboat 1 Class podium was crowded with Harold Keating’s US-flagged J/95, A perfect string of bullets catapulted Chuck In Performance Cruiser 1, the surfing conditions and The Festival’s Lay Day featured the Sol Optimist Lay Day featured the Sol The Festival’s The 2013 BVI Spring Regatta fun, this year’s com- Hot on the heels of the Festival Sergio Sagramoso’s J/122, To my mind, Debbie and Dave Clasen’s Tartan 10, To my mind, Debbie and Dave Melges 32, Spinnaker Racing 2. David says, “Two days of solid Spinnaker Racing 2. David says, “Two days of solid practice helped us tweak the boat and allowed us to nail boat handling, especially starts, and this really improved our performance.” three teams from Holland. Rene Van Dop’s Team three teams from Holland. Rene Van Dop’s Team Aquaholics sealed the class win, but Rene said win- Pessler’s Team Island Water World Racing from St. Pessler’s Team Island Water World Racing from St. Thomas, USVI to one-design division victory in the five-boat IC 24 Class. her heavier displacement rivals. The Canadian-flagged Marten 49 scored five wins out of six races to win the class by a big margin. UK-based Swan 51, it was unlikely that a heavy Swan was going to beat a lightweight Marten 49 without significant upwind legs. a perfect score for the last two days in Performance Cruiser 2 to handily win the class. But the real story here was Stanford Joines’ J/36, achieved second place. The schoolteacher’s crew con- sisted of pupils from St. Croix Central High School with an average age of just 14 — and prior to a colli- sion, the young team was winning the class. reaching courses suited Hamnett Hill’s best BVI boat of the regatta. Mark was on home waters and his team’s rig set-up combined with Plaxton’s knowl- edge of the tides and currents was a big advantage. It was only a five-boat field, but beating Russian entry, Valentin Zavadnikov’s Team Synergy, with tactician Tommaso Chieffi calling the shots, should be applauded. Challenge, a relay-type dinghy race among eight teams dinghy race among Challenge, a relay-type and one one racer, one beginner each comprising racing racers racing racers, beginners adult, with the adults racing adults. beginners and a formidable fleet of petitive Spring Regatta attracted 24s to the 82-foot 70 boats, ranging from Melges Aiyana five wins in a ten-race series. — to showcase the Royal BVI Yacht Club organized by The funded by Sol Petroleum. their youth programme, William included Rayne Duff (Racer), winning team (Adult). and Richard Wooldridge Dawson (Beginner) of the first day were fol- design rules. The light airs with correspondingly bois- lowed by two 20-knot days Drake Channel’s result- terous seas. In the Sir Francis race arena, some com- ing high-speed, action-packed of up to three races a petitors thought the programme was a little over the top! day in the cruiser divisions Windemon Racing 1, but the Puerto Rican team had no competi- Racing 1, but the Puerto Rican US-flagged J/120, tion after Richard Wesslund’s Ocaso the series. from the last four races in of the entire regatta. With put in the best performance six bullets in seven races, MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 [email protected] www.sunsail.com Tel: 17844584308 Fax: 1784 4568928 PO Box 133, BlueLagoon, St. Vincent, West Indies Sunsail

the website through to the reception and registration, sign-up the websitethroughtoreceptionandregistration,sign-up well runandorganized,rightfromtheinformationavailableon response tomyveryfirste-mail.Thewholethingwasincredibly infectious enthusiasmandsupport,startingwithaswift take partwasquitesimplytheorganizers’tremendousand Happy Morning is theBequiaRegattasopopular?” Canouan, MayreauandCarriacou. Bequia double-endersfleetwasswelledbyboatsfrom UK, USA,Netherlands,CaymanIslandsandCanada.The Lucia, St.Vincent&theGrenadines,Antigua,Trinidad, joined byboatsfromBarbados,Grenada,Carriacou,St. Easter Regatta,andtheseven-square-mileislandtilts. Bequians inthediasporawhoreturnhomeespeciallyfor come forthefestivities,plusshore-basedracefansand St. Martin/St.Maarten’spopulationwouldbenearly5,000! would bejustover800racerstakingpart.Butsixpercentof assuming anaverageoffourcrewmembersperboat,that Maarten HeinekenRegatta2013drew202boats.Again cent ofthepopulation.Forcomparison,monsterSt. sailboats onanislandwithapopulationof5,000—sixper- through April1st,Bequiasawmorethan300peopleracing tive averageoffourcrewmembersperboat,fromMarch29th But littleBequiaoutdoesitself.Assumingaveryconserva- sporting eventsinvolvehundredsofcompetitorsatonetime? set in2010with53registered. blockbuster. Thepreviousyachtdivisionentryrecordwas 32nd editionoftheBequiaHeinekenEasterRegattawasa sion and29intheGrenadines’double-enderdivision, 32 BLOCKBUSTER 83 BOATSFOR First-time competitor David Onyons, skipper of the Sigma 36 First-time competitorDavidOnyons,skipperoftheSigma36 Regatta organizersfromotherislandshaveasked,“Why An impressivefleetof14yachtsfromMartiniquewas In Bequia,addmorethanahundrednon-competingboats Yacht racesarebig.Howmanyothersmall-islandamateur With 54boatsregisteredintheinternationalyachtdivi- W HAT ND , says, “The defining factor in my decision to , says,“Thedefiningfactorinmydecisionto

out atEaster? has 83hulls,atleast600legsandcomes EDITION Marine Centre

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—Continuedonnextpage Easter Monday. the startto“Idon’treallywantgoouttheretoday!”on score intheseries.Conditionsrangedfrom“windy”at Sunday, whilehotlycontendedby11yachts,didnot The single-handedRoundtheIslandRaceonEaster the titleofSouthernCaribbeanJ/24Champion,didsix. in theseries,exceptforJ/24swho,competing and SurpriseClasses.Allclassescompletedthreeraces Cruising IandIIClasses,plusone-designJ/24 thing specialaboutit—arealfeel-goodfactor.” and wealllovetheislanditspeople.Thereisjustsome- regatta asa genuinely pleasedthatwehadcome.OverallIwouldratethe friendly. Everyonewassohelpful,accommodating,and and thewholeambiancewasjust…well,reallylovely process andskippers’briefing.Thepartieswerefantastic, This yearyachtsracedinCSA-handicappedRacing,

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‘must do’ event: ten out of ten. It really was fun, ‘must do’event:tenoutoften.Itreallywasfun, * * * * * Mooring Balls Laundry Book Exchange Prince &QueensBoutique Black Pearl Restaurant MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 from Nerissa J 2 .com from Bequia, skippered , owned by Dylan Ferry from , owned by Dylan O Connie Fo’ True , skippered by Lachie King. , skippered by from Bequia, skippered by Mike Marks, in Class 2; Double Bluff My Way , skippered by Alllick Daniel, taking top honours in Class 6. , skippered by Alllick Daniel, taking top honours in Class

Iron Duke crew raced from Mayreau, skippered by Adolphus Forde, in Class 4; from Mayreau, skippered by Adolphus Forde, in Class Hans

The double-ender fleet’s scoring series consisted of three other races — two Heineken of three other races — fleet’s scoring series consisted The double-ender Overheard at the Bequia Heineken Easter Regatta 2013 Grand Prizegiving, held in theOverheard at the Bequia Heineken Easter Regatta 2013 (Coreas Hazells Inc.), The Bequia Sailing Club thanks Title Sponsor Heineken Thanks to the Bequia Sailing Club for information in this report. For full results visit www.begos.com/easterregatta Lammers accepts a quintessential Bequia trophy Right: The jubilant yacht crew of Racing Class winner, Lost Horizon Below: Huge smiles for the smallest boats: O Connie a 12-foot double-ender Above: sink), the overall winner of the Bank of SVG Trophy in the keenly contested 28-foot Classsink), the overall winner of the Bank of SVG Trophy in the 7 is yet to be decided. The other overall winners were Challenges and a Mount Gay Challenge. With Monday’s Mount Gay Challenge race for Monday’s Mount Gay Challenge a Mount Gay Challenge. With Challenges and can roll and risky weather (double-enders postponed because of the the largest boats gardens of the Gingerbread Hotel, was perhaps the ultimate accolade, coming from agardens of the Gingerbread Hotel, was perhaps the ultimate but we had a GREAT time!” racing crew grinning ear to ear: “We didn’t win anything, Rum (Vintages, Bequia), and Premier Sponsor First Citizens, main sponsor Mount Gay Hotel, Bequia Beach sponsors United Insurance, Mountain Top Water, the Frangipani generous support. Thanks also Hotel, De Reef, C. K. Greaves and Karib Cable for their the SVG Coastguard, the go to the SVG Tourism Authority, Customs and Immigration, donors and all the volunteers Bequia Tourism Association, all business and private within the Sailing Club who worked so hard to make Regatta 2013 the biggest and best Bequia Easter Regatta ever! by Evan John, in Class I; Lightning the Virgin Islands and built and skippered by Bequian Arnold Hazell, the race was by Bequian Arnold Hazell, and built and skippered the Virgin Islands competitor won by long-time Canouan, skippered by Vernon Laidlow, in Class 5; and Bequia’s historic 140-year-oldCanouan, skippered by Vernon Laidlow, in Class 5; and seine boat, admirers flocked to see the sleek new 28-footer to see the sleek new 28-footer admirers flocked

, Bad from Concinnity Bad Attitude from Antigua Leonora, skippered by Philip from Martinique was also from Antigua, was crew the J/24 victory Lost Horizon Saltfish, and the Bermuda 40 Frolic, GFA Caraibes with two firsts and a second. In Cruising I, Hans Lammers’ Luders 44, unbeatable with two firsts and a fifth place. Cruising II saw David Spieler’s Beneteau Oceanis 473, Barbados, in a closely fought battle on points with the Van de Stadt 30 Fiesta going down to the wire on the final Above: The Surprise Class boats Above: The Surprise Class boats from Martinique get hot young Left: Great teamwork won the Bad Attitude Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

tied for second in a photo-finish dead heat, with just half a second tied for second in a photo-finish dead heat, with just half On Good Friday, the 27-foot double-enders’ First Citizens Big Boat Challenge from Barbados, into overall third place on a points tie-break. was the Overall J/24 Winner, thereby also taking the J/24 Southern was the Overall J/24 Winner, thereby also taking Bad Attitude

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Continued from previous page Continued from In the double-enders’ division, excitement ran at fever pitch on Good Friday as nine The nine-boat J/24 Class had a three-race series on the Saturday, with the United The nine-boat J/24 Class had a three-race series on the Overall winner in Racing Class was James Dobbs’ J/122, in Racing Class was James Overall winner The yacht races were officiated for the 14th year running by Principal Race Officer year running by Principal were officiated for the 14th The yacht races

[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

28-footers took part in the stand-alone First Citizens Big Boat Challenge. Although Attitude Caribbean Champion Trophy for 2013. St. Vincent’s Barnard, took a well-earned second overall, just nudging last year’s champion, Fadeaway separating the first four boats. When the final regatta results were tallied, separating the first four boats. When the final regatta Insurance Challenge Trophy going to a young crew from St. Lucia on Insurance Challenge Trophy going to a young crew from day. And in the Surprise Class, Nicolas Gillet’s runaway winner yet again with three first places. Captain Frederic Sweeney. skippered by 24-year-old St. Lucia Yacht Club Sailing in 2007 when he was just Fredric is not new to Bequia, having won the J/24 Class 13. In the final day’s first 17. His youngest crewmember in Bequia this year was race, James Benoit from Grenada, working alongside the Bequia Sailing Club Race alongside the Bequia Sailing from Grenada, working James Benoit Criquet from jury comprising Jean-Michel were heard by a Committee. Protests Jimmy Bristol from Grenada. Keith from the USA and Martinique, Harry — MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 amenities modern charm with Caribbean old-time Saintes provide delight, the Doorways to

DESTINATIONS is atradition,infamilyboating is atradition,infamilyboating all thegasforscootersandcarshastobecarriedbyalocalboat.Themayor sular withonlyatinyroughtrackleadingtoitandnoroadofanysort,so bikes instead,sothatwalkingalonganyroadispleasantandeasy. the numberofcarscomingin,andencouragepeopletousescootersor around, sit,orhangoutinbars,andrelax.Anotherwastoputalimiton town formostofthetime,resultinginafriendlyareawherepeoplestroll kindly decisions.Oneofthefirstwastobantrafficfromcenter all onaveryhumanscaleandtheauthoritieshavetakensomepeople- and itspicture-perfectred-roofedtowndottedwithflowerstrees.Itis enthralled bythislittlegroupofislandswithitsgreentored-brownhills, One cannotbuthelplikeanislandwhoseonlygasstationisonapenin- I

lucky, butcalmsunnyweathermighthavehelpedmebecome Saintes andwaspassionated.”Icannotclaimtobequitethat Saintes. Itwastranslatedbytheauthor,whosaid,“Icameto remember readinganearlyrestaurantguidetoLesIlesdes (and Their Moorings) Revisited S Saintes by ChrisDoyle a The T i n h t Close to: what wedoandthewayit.

ALL PHOTOS: CHRIS DOYLE respectable distance. crowd ofexcitedkidswhosnorkelandpaddleboardtowatchthemata their brainatatime.Howcoolisthat?Theyseemverytolerantofthe slowly betweenallthemooredyachts,presumablysleepingonesideof in GrandBourgtheirresidenceandtheyspendeachthedayswimming Notched Tailandheroffspring,calledJojo,decidedtomaketheanchorage —Continuedonnextpage tion isgreathikes. any directionandtakeapictureitwilllooklikepostcard.Anotherattrac- hurt thatfromupontheramparts,ifyoupointyourcamerainpractically types ofvegetation.Youoftenseehummingbirdsandiguanas.Itdoesnot have beenturnedintodelightfulgardensfeaturingcactiandsucculent restored oldfortcompletewithadeepmoat.Withinthewalls,allopenareas shops. Thelocalsappreciatethevisitors,too;peopleareuniversallyfriendly. holiday-style atmosphere,orbettercollectionofwaterfrontrestaurantsand on theroadtoisland’stallestpeak,Chameau. has fixedmanyoftheoldproblems,includingtoxicsmokinggarbagepit The bayatBourgdesSaintesprovidesmooringsaswellandroomtoanchor For thewholeofthisseason,startingaroundOctober,adolphincalled One oftheattractionsinSaintesisFortNapoleon,abeautifully The Saintesmakesitslivingfromvisitorsandyouwillnotfindamorerelaxed ...... THE DIFFERENCEIS ofSSCA • OfficialCruisingStation • CameraSurveillance 24HourSecurity • WholeAreaPatrolledby isourPrimaryConcern • Safety,CleanlinessandService onDock“A” DeliveredonallSlipsexcept • On-SiteFuelDockandDiesel • WideConcreteFingerPiers • 282FixedSlips • ProfessionalandCourteousStaff Fajardo, PuertoRico Parcelas Beltrán,Bo.Sardinera, E: F: T: or attheAdministrationOfficeMarina, open 7daysaweekfrom8:00amto4:00pm ¡ [email protected] 787.863.5282 787.863.0313 VISIT US! our webpage and bepartofourfamily. Join ustoday AMENITIES www.sunbaymarina.com • AmpleParking Located1/2mileAwaybyDinghy • USCustomandImmigration ElConquistadorHotelandCasino ElegantRestaurantssuchas • NearSmallEateriesandUpscale ConvenienceStore • NearbyShip'sChandleryand • LaundryFacilities • RestroomsandShowers • WaterandElectricity andWi-Fi • ComplementaryCableTV at Fajardo , MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 Below: The yacht moorings are well maintained and easy to use Below: The yacht moorings At first it seemed the authorities were making the use of moorings compulsory, but the use of moorings compulsory, the authorities were making At first it seemed harder about allowed the town to think moorings has apparently Putting in the anchoring in a good spot, I find myself happy to take Because of the difficulties of the complaints will come (and not far in the future) I don’t think it will last forever; Left: Fort Napoleon has flora, fauna and picture-postcard views Left: Fort Napoleon has flora, credit cards. If you think of this as dollars (which is about the purchase equivalent (which is about the purchase you think of this as dollars credit cards. If reasonable. Even the rates are quite than making the conversion, of a Euro) rather are not too bad. rate of conversion the rates with the added it. I person- and you may anchor outside delineated the mooring area now they have at least you are closer to the moorings, but area could be brought in ally think this allowed to anchor. the ferry You can now come alongside to organize support services. yachting and that collects the the company on water, and Saintes Multiservices, dock to take handy laundry and delivers morning bread and crois- mooring fees, has put in a the ferries enter and leave by a channel, keeping them sants. The Mayor now makes are generally good at obeying the three-knot speed limit clear of the moorings. People has made it safe for all the dolphin watchers. among the moorings, which many other yachties feel the same way. The businesses one of these moorings and year. ashore have had an excellent moorings to fill the demand. Let us hope the authorities when there are not enough this is one of the places where I think moorings work have a plan for this. Until then, rather than a nuisance, at least for now. well and are a benefit overall Continued from previous page Continued from Anchoring in the Saintes was always a bit of a nightmare. The seabed is variable, Anchoring in the Saintes was always a bit of a nightmare. This is the first time I have been here since the moorings have been installed, and the moorings have been time I have been here since This is the first often rock or coral, and where there is sand, the water tends to be deep. It is one of often rock or coral, and where there is sand, the water had one been available. the few places I would have wanted to rent a mooring before, easy. The new moorings are I always did manage to anchor, but it was not always At the bottom is a 5.5-ton properly organized and designed to protect the seabed. under the water. This keeps it concrete block. Chain comes off the block to a buoy cable (this is something off the seabed. From here runs a long multi-strand plastic up to the surface buoy. The quite new) about an inch and half thick, which comes two feet off the water, so buoy has through it a massive iron ring that stands about through. The moorings are it is child’s play to come alongside and slip your line no problems. The multi- inspected four times a year and so far there have been get cut, they would fly strand cable probably helps, because should a few strands by the mayor and at the apart and it would be very obvious. The price is fixed a 12-meter boat; they accept moment is 60 Euro for a week, or 11 Euro a night for I have to admit I like them… for now. Unlike so many attempts at moorings in the so many attempts at I like them… for now. Unlike I have to admit where they are organized, put in have been carefully planned, Caribbean, these all, are safe. reasonably and above doing good, priced — MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 without thewinggettinginway.Youusedtobeablegettopoftower 360-degree viewtakingineverythingtheSaintes.Itwaslikebeingaplane,but running fromIletaCabritrightroundtoBourgdesSaintesandtheairport. few hundredfeet.Thetownhasclearedsufficientvegetationtoofferanexcellentview, toxic smoke.Theroadendsshortlybelowthetower,andapathtakesyouuplast the lastturn-off.Ithasbeenbeautifullycleanedupandnolongerassailsyouwith over tothehill’sedgeformoreviews.Theoldgarbagedumpisabouthalfwayupfrom will notberepeatedatthetop.Youpassabigwatertower,whereyoucanwander the barrier;itisnottheretobarpedestrians. oughly, whichistostopmotorizedvehicles,buttherejustroomwalkaround will seeasharpleftturnsignpostedto“LeChameau”.Theroadisbarredfairlythor- Soon youstartclimbingandwhenreachclosetotheroad’shighestpoint then shortlyright,followingthesignstoPaindeSucre,AnseàCointre,orBoisJoli. Epice. HeretheroadyouareonisgoingtofinishatTêteRouge,soturnleftand (south) andfollowthecoastroadroundtocommercialdockLaCaseaux ers sayitis45minutesfromtowntothetop.Comingdockyouturnright about 20extraminutestohikefromthedockbeginningofroad.Fasthik- the towerarockytrailcontinuesdowntoPlagedeCrawen. will havetoifyoucycle)butanalternativeiscontinuedowntheotherside.From bike. (Thisisquiteachallenge;Itriedandfailed.)Youcanreturnthesameway(and motorized vehicleorassistedpropulsionisbanned,youmaycycleuponapedal watchtower fromNapoleonicdays.Goingupisalongasmallroadandwhileany high, tothetallestpeakonislandofTerre-de-Haut,wherestandsafortified ful signposts,bothonroadsandtrails. sometimes beingexceptionallypatient.Theauthoritieshaveputinquiteafewhelp- (though quiteanumberofscooters),andingeneraldriversgivepedestrianspriority, View fromthetrailtoFortCaroline The viewfromthetopoftowerwas,bycomparison,breathtaking—a You windupthehill—enjoyanyviewsyougetdownoverPaindeSucre,asthese It takesabout45minutestohikefromtheChameauturn-offtop,anditis Le ChameauistheSaintes’signaturehike,takingyoujustoveronethousandfeet Le Chameau Hiking intheSaintes,whetheronroadsortrails,isgood.Thereareveryfewcars Terre-de-Hautand lesSaintes IletàCabrit, SAILORS’ HIKESBYCHRISDOYLE

—Continuedonnextpage ALL PHOTOS: CHRIS DOYLE distinct feelof“intotheheartdarkness”. artisanal developmentthatfailedonfirstattempt,andtheruinsinbushhavea with afascinatingcollectionofabandonedboatsandbits.Thiswasallpartan towering aboveyouonthelandwardside.Youwillsooncometoruinedhaul-out, hard toloseyourway.Asyougoalongcannothelpnoticethedramaticcliffs as wellblazedtheothertrailsbutsomanypeoplehavewalkedalonghereitis this extrahikeasitfollowsthecoastatsomeelevationandhaslovelyviews.Itisnot boatyards? ItisonlytenminutesdownintotheboatyardsandIhighlyrecommend before. Thisisachoicepoint:upwardintothehillsordownwardtofueldockand presumably acarparkforthehikes.Ipersonallyfindthisshame;itwasprettier great views.Youwillcometoajunctionwheretheyseembebuildingroadand The pathstartsjustbesidetherestaurantandclimbsupoverrockswithsome Restaurant. Youcantakeadrinkherebeforeyousetoffandeatwhenreturn. back. Ifyouhaveacoupleofhoursshouldbeabletocovereverything. paint. Thedistancesarenotgreat;anhourwouldbealeisurelyhiketoFortCarolineand Morne Morel.Thehikeshereareonrockyandstonypathsthatquitewellblazedwith ous. Ihaveonlybeenashortwaydownit. ladder. Ihopeitistrue,becausestandinguptherewastrulyamazing. the breaksoyoucannolongerclimbup.Iamtoldtheyhaveaplantorestore But beforesomeonewaskilled,themayor’sofficecutofftopofladderfrom forever, andonesidebroke.Eventhen,youcouldstillgetupifwereverycareful. by climbinganoldironladder,whichwaspresumablyoriginal.Butnothinglasts The nicestplacetostartisattheheadofBaiedeMarigotbyLaPaillote The mainareaoflaid-outtrailsonTerre-de-HautstartsfromMarigotandgoesinto Morne Morel,FortCaroline The trailbackdowntheothersideofmountainstartsattowerandisobvi- MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Clockwise from left: View from Le Chameau, part of Fort Josephine, left: View from Le Chameau, Clockwise from Fort Josephine and view from explore these also. Fort Josephine is a simple but quite sizeable fort with a big water but quite sizeable fort also. Fort Josephine is a simple explore these the sheer drop, walk eastwards you come to and not much else. If you cistern inside des Saintes. The view back over Bourg of the fort, and an excellent some more parts exploring, and get up to the fort, do some are really short, so you can distances here half an hour. get back in about Terre-de-Haut.

PHOTO TIP! PHOTO Excerpt from "How to Take Stunning Excerpt from "How to Take available on Kindle, Apple, and ebook. available on Kindle, and Shoot Cameras" by Scott Fratcher, and Shoot Cameras" by Scott Fratcher, Underwater Photos Using Inexpensive Point STUNNING UNDERWATER STUNNING UNDERWATER Many amazing underwater photos are taken in the extreme close-up. This setting on the camera is called macro. Learn to make this mode change without looking at the camera. needs For example, my Olympus Stylus Tough the “down” button pushed three times, then right once. By knowing this sequence I’m able to quickly change camera modes. reveals Worm close up of a Christmas Tree A not only an interesting formation but also its mechanics of breathing and catching food. Continued from previous page Continued from Ilet à Cabrit island off A lot of clearing has been done at Ilet à Cabrit, a smaller As you come back out of Fort Caroline you can turn left and continue down to a roadAs you come back out of Fort Caroline you can turn left Take the Point Zozio trail whichever way you plan to hike; it is a prettier route and Take the Point Zozio trail whichever way you plan to hike; You have to return the same way as far as the road and car-park site, and then as the road and car-park the same way as far You have to return Farther along you come to Eurl Carburant Santoise, the little fuel dock, which also Santoise, the little fuel dock, you come to Eurl Carburant Farther along that leads into Baie de Pompiere, or you can head back to Marigot. If you follow thethat leads into Baie de Pompiere, or you can head back bring you down by a fence. route to Marigot it will be a little quicker this time and not much longer. It takes you to a little pond that attracts birds. Take the left turn not much longer. It takes you to a little pond that attracts at the eastern hilltops looking around the pond and follow it around till you arrive you can turn left and head out to sea. At this point you come to a T junction. Here up to Fort Caroline. Distances down to Point Zozio, or you can turn right and back Zozio and then return. The are not huge, so you can happily follow the trail to Point Caroline; it is a good way to right turn takes you up the hill and very shortly to Fort it gives an idea of how big an approach as you see the buildings from a distance and old ruins and farther down area it covered. All that is left of Fort Caroline are some over Baie de Pompiere. some ramparts, from where you get a straight-down view fenced field. There is a short side trail here to The Viewpoint, the path follows the fenced field. There is a short side trail here to The Viewpoint, edge of those dramatic cliffs fence to the left (north). At the end you stand on the very way and now follow the trail and look right down on the fuel dock. Return the same at the top of the fence, one along the south side of the fence up hill. The path splits other to Point Zozio. way goes to Fort Caroline and Baie de Pompiere, the take the road up the hill. Remember those towering cliffs? Well this is where you are towering cliffs? Well this up the hill. Remember those take the road where you get come to an open rocky area leads steeply up. You headed. The trail you come to a along the trail until back over the island. Continue some good views sells fishing gear. The dock is small but good, as anyone who needs gas has to come good, as anyone who needs The dock is small but sells fishing gear. vehicles on the switch from gas to electric is definitely encouraging the by boat. (This boatyards. the gas station are two active island.) Behind — The trail, which is mainly a single strand of concrete, starts right behind the beach. The trail, which is mainly a single strand of concrete, go up to the top. At this point It goes up the hill and then zigs round to the right to numerous old ruins and build- there is a side trail to the left, which takes you among down. If you take the zig and ings. You can check these out now or on your way Just before you bear right up continue up the trail you come to the top of the hill. some old hotel ruins; you can towards Fort Josephine, a road leads left downhill to MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 anywhere fromGrenadatoCapeCod,andyoucan goes withtheterritory.Youownaboat,anysize plans andpreparationsfarinadvanceofastorm.It hurricane issimple:Don’townaboat. comes inhandythenexttime. learn what’sworkingandnot,whichthen make sureyoursystemisworking.Asyoudo, “set itandforgetit”.Constantcheckingisneededto the maritimecommunity. other reasonthanthecompanionship.Thenetbonds radio netactiveduringthestorm,listen—ifforno and atmosphericpressure.IfthereisaVHForSSB on windspeeds,direction,waveheightsandperiod iTunes thathasthem)provideimportantinformation help. Offshorebuoyreports(youcangetanAppfrom forecasts onyourlocalVHFweatherchannelisoflittle them. Whatdotheytellyou?Listeningtothecanned wind chartsfromwww.PassageWeather.com.Study reports, predictionmaps,andforecasts.Downloadthe information areavailable? cy andsurgehaveonyourboat?Whatsourcesof possible track?Whateffectswillwaveheight,frequen- What steersahurricane?Canyoupredictstorm’s the low?Howfaroutarewindsfromcenter? What’s thewindstrengthonrightandleftsideof your boatandlife forms, andknowledgeisatoolyoucanusetosave lived throughhurricanes.Knowledgecomesinmany Listen totheexperiencesofothersailorswhohave have storiesofcrewsthatsurvivedstorms,ordidnot. guidebooks andonhiswebsite.Yourship’slibrarywill Read DonStreet’sreflectionsonHurricaneHugoinhis download BoatUS’sarticlesonhurricanepreparation. stand theirmechanics.ReadNOAA’sHurricaneBasics, storms thatpassthroughtheCaribbean,andunder- even puttogooduse. are mine,manyfrommyfellowmariners,mostI’ve thoughts andrecommendationstoconsider—some three Caribbeanhurricanesatanchor,hereareafew fellow mariners,from60yearsatseaandsurviving weather event?Frommyresearch,conversationswith operators andharbormasters,prepareforamajor Those ofuswhofindthisunthinkablehavetomake Preventing thelossordamagetoyourboatfroma Hurricane Avoidance Anchoring isnotlikeKitchenMagician—youdo NOAA’s HurricaneCenterhashourlyposition What willthewinddirectionbeaseyepasses? Study hurricanetheory—readuponthehistoryof How canweasboatowners,skippers,crew,marine & theGrenadines VHF Channel16 @gmail.com 784-456-1302 784-456-2640 784-457-2178 St. Vincent ottleyhall Phone: email: Fax: Shower&toilet Electricity &water • 22berthsforyachtsfrom22M-65M • • Electrical,refrigeration&mechanicalrepairs MARINA SERVICES Welding, painting,fi berglass • • Woodwork &metalwork • Sand 40tonnetravellift • blasting Drydock facilitiesupto65M&1000tonne • • • Covered SHIPYARD REPAIR SERVICES drydock tering from50-footbreakingseas.Also,fewoftoday’s built towithstandheavyweatherandprolongedbat- yachts, especiallythoseinthecharterfleets,arenot large seas,shouldtheybecaught.Today’smodern safe watersinaday.Militaryshipsarebuilttohandle ing at30knots,canout-runahurricaneandreach threatens. ANavycarrier,cruiserordestroyer,travel- take themaway. lying areascanre-floatyourboatanditstrailer buildings collapse,stufffliesaround.Floodinginlow- but takecarewhereyouparkit.Treescantopple, shores whenHurricaneSandyarrived. on thehardalongLongIslandandNewJersey effects ofsurge,whichwasamajorproblemforboats hauled out,thelandishighenoughtoescape protection foryachtsanchoredinahurricanehole.If hard granite,theshoreishighenoughtoprovidesome lots ofyardstohaulyouout.Andwhiletheshoreis numerous placestohidewhenablowthreatensand dred years.Mainealsohaslotsofplacestoexplore, Maine hasexperiencedonlyonedirecthitinahun- hurricane belt,itisfarsaferthananywheresouth. Mediterranean forthesummer. end ofNovember. begin worryingJunefirst,andkeepuntilthe The USNavysendsitsfleettoseawhenahurricane Put tosea,orremaininport? • Ifyourboatistrailerable,getitoutofthewater, • SpendthesummerinMaine.Whilenotoutof • GotoTrinidad,theABCs,CartagenaorPanama. • Getoutofthewayearly.Sailyourboatto How toavoidhurricanesaltogether: HHurricane byDavidH.Lyman SStrategy SSurvival u t u r r r r a v i t i c v e                   ! "    a           a g   #  n l  !"#$%"&$'$"(')*+++( ! ,'-(')* y e

 $             option ina another daytoTrinidad.DonStreetdescribedthisasan miles. At6.5knots,that’stwodaysofsailing.Add to Trinidad.FromAntiguaGrenadais300nautical may upanchorandbeatittoGrenada,orfarthersouth ricane isspottedinmid-Atlantic,theprudentskipper helicopter’s crewinjeopardyduringarescueattempt. land. Atsea,youputyourcrewandtheCoastGuard blown ontothebeach,crewcanstepoffdry is remaininginport.However,ifaboatatanchor and hisfloatingmoviesetsank,alongwithhim. hurricane waslurkingabout.Onecaptaindidlastfall trace. Noprudentseamanwouldgotoseaknowinga more whowerenotsoluckyandlostwithouta crews survivinghurricanesatsea,aswellmany luck. Hisconclusionsarevaluablereading. some verysmartandfortunatetacticsalotof Stream. Brown,hisboatandcrewsurvived,thanksto —Continued on next page on acollisioncoursewith strength andwasdeclaredahurricaneagain.It east and,oncebackovertheGulfStream,regained was downgradedtoa“disturbance.”ThenCleoturned was runningoutofsteamoverNorthCarolina,and board. Theyleftforthefour-daytripasHurricaneCleo from BermudatoNewportwithacrewofeighton 19). Brownwassailinghis40-footsloop, Warren Brown,called contains adramaticchapterbyBermudayachtsman all thelaws. an earlyseasonhurricanethatwentastrayanddefied three sailorsin80-footseastheGulfStreamfrom of aCoastGuardhelicopter’screwandtheirrescue ops, headingtowhereyouaretryinghide. head out,andwithinfourdaysanothersystemdevel- escape thehurricane’sconeofprobability.So,you you? Sailingatsixknots,itwilltakeyoufourdaysto days, butwherewouldyougo? between themandtheeffectsofahurricaneinthree traveling attenknots,mayputenoughdistance with amajorstormatsea.Smallervessels,eventhose yachtsmen havetheexperienceorsavvytodeal If youarecruisingtheEasternCaribbeanwhenahur- The EasternCaribbean Putting toseaoutrunahurricaneisrisky,butso There aredozensofharrowingstoriesyachtsand Adlard Coles’famousbook A StormTooSoon What ifthesystemturnstorightandchases Out tosea? Caribbean Compass                        istherecentlypublishedaccount 

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MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 This satellite photo shows that the effects of a single storm can be felt from the Bahamas to Curaçao. But being in This satellite photo shows that the effects of a single storm from being near a hurricane’s eye wall. Study hurricanes’ the outer rain bands is an entirely different experience behavior and make plans to avoid the worst

Hurricane Comin’!, Continued from previous page Continued from David H. Lyman is a mariner from I’ll discuss where and how to prepare I’ll discuss where and how to prepare So, have I persuaded you to not try to So, have I persuaded you In Conclusion make the deci- The factors that help you So, heading south, while an option, needs while an option, needs So, heading south, But that mid-Atlantic hurricane or tropi- But that mid-Atlantic about how to avoid, prepare for and survive hurricanes. He is looking for stories that illustrate seamanship solutions to storm survival to include. You may e-mail him at [email protected]. Camden, Maine who has made the New England to the Eastern Caribbean voyage more than ten times, surviving three hurri- canes at anchor on various sailboats. You can read his account of those three hurri- canes on his website, www.DHLyman.com. He is writing a book, your boat to ride out a hurricane in next your boat to ride out a hurricane in next month’s edition. either outrun a hurricane or put to sea to either outrun a hurricane ride it out? If so, what next? Plan what to do. List your options. Do the research. Talk to your insurance company. sion to stay or go offshore include your sion to stay or go offshore skills boat, where you are, your seamanship and mental and experience, your physical the availabil- condition, the hurricane itself, condition of your ity of suitable anchorages, system, marina mooring or storm anchor policy, or the policy, and your insurance these. The deci- lack of any one or more of sion is yours. to be weighed against other possible dan- to be weighed may meet you there. Where gers. The storm your boat? The hurricane do you park well filled, and holes in Grenada will be well as hurri- hurricane holes (albeit as Haul out? You canes) are few in Trinidad. north. Trouble could have done that farther though less so is, hauling out is still risky, on the hook. than riding out a hurricane Head north? Not wise. cal storm you are trying to escape may are trying to escape may cal storm you slightly south of normal and decide to head place where you are trying impact the very to hide. — APRIL 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24

—Continuedonnextpage passage oftherollers. the boatliesonhersideforlaunch.Planksarelaidbeachtoaid neath. Awideplankwasthennailedalongtheturnofbilgetoactasaskid,for anchor laidoutinthebay.Thekeelwasliftedwithajackandlogrollersslidunder- them. Ropeswereslungaroundthehullandattachedtoafour-parttacklean axes totheangleofhull,withpadsnailedgleamingpaintworksecure fully shapedribsandfineplanking. bare. Aninspectionbelowrevealedtheskilledworkofshipwrights,withbeauti- to givealongerwaterlineforher42-footlengthoverall.Insidethehullsheisstill revealing thenewsloopas“EXODUS”. sloops andschoonerswerebuilt.Theflagannouncinghernamewasunfurled, the newshipusingaprayerfrom1886—abouttimewhenfirstCarriacou with thechoirandpriestwhoclimbedupontodecktoperformblessingof church congregation,freshfromtheirEasterSundaydevotions,arrivedonthescene but nodoubtwellhiddenweretheconcernsthatattendbeachlaunch. launching. being completedandthelatestCarriacouslooptobebuiltatWindwardwasreadyfor The Launching of LIKE For thelaunch,foursupportingstaveswerecutforportside,shapedwith For aCarriacousloopshehasfinerentryandmodernmoreverticalbluntbow The bloodsacrificehadalreadybeenmadeandtheforedeckwaswellanointed. Alwyn Enoe,theproudownerandbuilder,histwosonsappearedreallycool Musicians accompanythechoir Below: Ready toheave Top tobottomright:Theblessing,Nailingtheskidwithstavesinplace, Above: Shefloats! by JohnLytle

start their work. The last few finishing touches to the keel were start theirwork.Thelastfewfinishingtouchestothekeelwere tree, shestoodonthebeachwaitingforlaunchingcrewto an exotictropicalfruit,ripeandreadytobepickedfromthe Easter Sunday,March 31st,2013 Exodus atWindward,Carriacou MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 — Chris Burnett NEW SLOOP The ribs stood gaunt against the sky Awaiting the beating heart The sap drying, the colour grey Then came the body of the boat Enveloping the ribs tar Planks sweated shapes and smell of The backbone keel taking the weight A grizzled builder with his keen eye And tools of chain saw and adze The chest enclosed with deck and stern Paint to protect, spars to collect At last, a new sloop is born. Top left: A shipwright’s skills Left: Proud shipwright Alwyn Enoe Bottom left: Down on the skid gradu- lay to a moor- Exodus Exodus sailing and seeing the fruits of sailing and seeing the fruits of By this time a large crowd of locals After two years of skilled labour, Whether she will get to Antigua for As the team heaved, ally slid towards the water, giving an occasional impatient run, which was quickly checked by the brakemen. The rollers and planks were re-laid as they became free and eventually the bow touched the water. With much pushing and pulling and shouting she slowly slid through the shallows and eventually floated upright in deep water amidst much cheering and applause. and visitors had gathered; there was food and drink for everyone and the party started. and a well-organized and well-exe- cuted launch, ing in Watering Bay. The whole launching process had taken a mere two hours. A tree, which is to become her mast, was carried onto the beach slipway for work to begin after the Easter holiday. Exodus is the last sloop to be built by Alwyn and has been is the last sloop to be built by Alwyn and has been Exodus Continued from previous page Continued from We understand that Long may the tradition of building wooden boats at Windward continue. All was ready for the heaving team to harness their weight to the tackle. A the tackle. A harness their weight to for the heaving team to All was ready All the time the choir was singing beautifully and melodically with instrumental and melodically with choir was singing beautifully All the time the followed photographically by Alexis Andrews. We hope and expect that Alwyn will followed photographically by Alexis Andrews. We hope and expect that Alwyn will be there in a consultative role to assist his sons in the next building project of the Enoe family. We look forward to seeing the Classics Regatta this year remains to be seen. Alexis’s photographic work. brake rope was secured to a strong point higher up the beach to control the the to a strong point higher up the beach to control brake rope was secured speed of descent. accompaniment from guitars and violin. When all was ready the choir processed When all was ready the from guitars and violin. accompaniment and carefully the as they went. Gradually sprinkling rum over her round the boat, the boat slowly “cut down” with axes and on the port side were supporting staves lay down on the lurch at the end as she port side, giving a slight settled onto her resting on the away the sand so she was were then slit to drain sandbags. These those rested on rested on the rollers and nailed to the boat, in turn skid. The skid, on the sand. the planks laid — MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 tical miles from the Lesser Antilles, unblocked. Other times, early in the tradewind tical milesfromtheLesserAntilles,unblocked.Othertimes,earlyintradewind solely becausethetradewindshavebeenblowinghardandfetchisover1,000nau- average fortheCaribbean—above20knots.Sometimesareahasstrongconditions and canbequitehigh.Thecurrentwillagainstyouthewindsgenerallyabove return eastandhavegivenup.Headingwestfromthisarea,theseasareaboveaverage be abletosailoutofitexceptwestbynorthwestorperhapsnorth.Manyhavetried not fornovices.Irefertothisareaas“theHole”becauseonceyouenteritwill areas andbothareverywellwritten. Caribbean Coast Ports: theCentralAmericanRoute ern sideofColombiatothenortheastendMexicoisover1,000nauticalmiles. Honduras, Guatemala,BelizeandMexico.Thedistanceasthecrowfliesfromeast- Contained withinitareColombia,theSanBlasIslands,Panama,CostaRica,Nicaragua, when understood,canbeusedtosupportagivenitinerary. into “Quadrants”becausetheQuadrantseachhavetheirownpeculiaritieswhich, and budget,youwillhavetofigurewhatisbestforyou.IlikebreaktheCaribbean a senseofbeinginthePacific This quadrantisbeautifultocruise.IntheSanBlasIslands,orKunaYala,youget Cruising byQuadrants: THE SOUTHWEST The southwest quadrant, especially the area west of Aruba and east of Nicaragua is The southwestquadrant,especiallytheareawestofArubaandeastNicaraguais ‘The Hole’ There aretwocruisingguidesthatindispensableforthisquadrant: The SouthwestQuadrantisaverylargeandcanbecomplicatedquadrant. There aremanywaystocruisetheCaribbeanand,dependingonyourtimeframe B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Easily approachedfromCarriacou, UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email: [email protected] FUEL •OILWATERICE Contact: GlennClementorReynold Belmar byCapt.FreyaRauscher.Eachaffordsverydetailedcoverageofthe The bestfueldockintheGrenadinesfor: Cheapest pricesintheGrenadines Unobstructed dockincalmwater Suitable forLargePowerYachts 16-18 feetofwateralongside Petite Martinique by FrankVirgintino byCapt.PatRainsand Belize andMexico’s CARIBBEAN VOYAGING

Cruising NADINE SLAVINSKI NADINE —Continuedonnextpage air issocleanthatyourlungswillhurtfromit;dobreathedeeply! islands areamongthebestinworld.Thewaterisclearandsealifeabounds. are safeandwelcomingtocruisingboats.Thescubasnorkelinginthesetwo and ifyoutakethisroutewest,theyarea“muststop”.Untouchedpristine, that areownedbyColombia:SanAndrésandProvidencia.Theyextraordinary, 400 nauticalmilestothewest-northwest,offcoastofNicaragua,aretwoislands ing boatsandtheyachtclubishospitable. Cartagena isEuropeintheNewWorld.Theharboraccustomedtoreceivingcruis- none. IfyouwanttogoEuropebutdonotspendthetimeandmoney, quaint restaurantsandwonderfulsights. Marta isanold(establishedin1525)andbeautifulplacefilledwithcolonialstreets, for cruisingboatsareSantaMartaandCartagena. become muchsaferinrecentyears.Thetwostopsthataremostsupportiveandsafe ing thehelmandtackingdownwind. unavoidable. Mostautopilotscannotholdthecourseandyouwillfindyourselftak- the helmsmanallyoulike,butsometimesagybeinsuchconditionsisalmost prevent oratleastcontrolanaccidentalgybe.Withbigfollowingseas,youcanblame ing butcertainlyheavier)weathersailing.Hopefully,yourboathasadevicethatwill doubt andthecrewmusthavesomeexperiencein“heavier”(notheavyweathersail- beautiful tocruise.Tocruiseitwell,yourboatanditsriggingmustbebeyondany the northerandtradesarestrong(thesewindscalled“intensifiedtradewinds”). seas buildevenlargerandcancomeatyoufromanumberofdirections,especiallyif this area.Itisattimeslikewhentheareabecomesmostchallengingbecause season, abignorthercomesdownfromNorthAmericaandreachesallthewayto Colombia doesnotendhere.Asidefromitscontinuingcoastline,approximately Cartagena isthequintessentialSpanishcolonialcityinAmericas,secondto Santa Martahasanewmarinawhereonecanclearinandout.Thetownof The firstcountryinthequadranteastof“theHole”isColombia,whosecoasthas Colombia Before youdecidefororagainstcruisingthisarea,shouldknowthatitis MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 3 Phase 100Amp, 50 Hz • Big Blue Building , heading north towards Isla Mujeres, I saw a towards Isla Mujeres, , heading north AM Phone: (784) 496 5531 • 240V 50Amp • [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines Look for the VHF 68 Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia Open 7 days 8:00am - 6:00pm or later! Water & Dockage available - new Services coming soon! BEQUIA MARINA Farther north is Tulum, the site of world-class Mayan ruins. Still farther north is Mayan ruins. Still farther is Tulum, the site of world-class Farther north at about 2:00 One dark night Onward Havana at the north- You can detour and call at Marina Hemingway, just outside for the southwest coast If you are not ready to depart the Caribbean, you can make Passage and cruise up the You can also exit the Caribbean through the Windward so remote, that one could This southwest quadrant is so large, and in many places Frank Virgintino is the author of Free Cruising Guides (www.freecruisingguide.com). Just north of Cancun is the small island of Isla Mujeres. For cruising boats, this small island of Isla Mujeres. For cruising boats, this Just north of Cancun is the enter the Gulf of Mexico, head up to Florida or head From Isla Mujeres, you can entered here and you can follow it (with a very favor- The Yucatan Channel can be Electric: 110V 30Amp The southwestern part of the Caribbean is colorful and diverse; The southwestern part of the Caribbean is colorful and you could spend years exploring it only be entered during the day in good light and reasonable conditions. Technically, and reasonable conditions. during the day in good light only be entered you must have cleared in. to anchor here rather large, unlit black boat shadowing us off our starboard side. Imagining the us off our starboard side. unlit black boat shadowing rather large, to repeat the call Coast Guard and had on the radio to alert Mexican worst, I called answer. Finally, an officer with a mild accent, who spoke three times to get them to the boat shadowing the sailboat WAS the Mexican perfect English, told me that of an American university who was on drug patrol Coast Guard. He was a graduate that night. the island of Cozumel. Cozumel has great swimming and snorkeling, and there are swimming and snorkeling, Cozumel. Cozumel has great the island of and I always island caters to cruise ships to shop in. However, this plenty of stores local authorities more of a nuisance for the that clearing my boat in is get the feeling welcome. did not make us feel all that — in order words, they than it was worth west corner of Cuba, if you are so inclined. (Note: US citizens you MAY enter Cuba; west corner of Cuba, if you are so inclined. (Note: US You might be asked to prove however you are not allowed to spend any money there. to do so or risk a fine). it upon re-entering the United States; you must be able easting in the lee that it of Cuba and then turn east, using Cuba to make your as much katabatic wind affords. The southwestern portion of Cuba does not produce you can anchor behind if the as the eastern portion but there is a long string of cays eastern end of Cuba, their wind is too strong for your liking. As you come to the the Dominican Republic as mountain range as well as those in Jamaica and then wind). The only time well as Puerto Rico, will all produce wind off the land (katabatic are so strong during the the katabatic winds are not usable is when the tradewinds them at night. day that the wind off the land cannot adequately stall Bahamas’ chain of islands. fully appreciate its natural spend a number of years exploring only this area to beauty and diversity. is a wonderful place. There is an opportunity to anchor and additionally two mari- is a wonderful place. There “yachtie heaven”. If you get bored you can take the ferry nas; one of which is like a sites”. over to Cancun and “visit the over to Cuba. Florida. able current) easily to southern 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport ). It is less than 20 nautical miles south of the

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Zar-Par Marina Continued from previous page Continued from Some cruising boats like to clear in at Xcalac just southwest of Chinchorro, but Some cruising boats like to clear in at Xcalac just southwest As you continue north and cross the border into Mexico, you will locate the As you continue north and cross the border into When you depart the Rio Dulce, you can make for Belize and then Mexico or even When you depart the Rio Dulce, you can make for Belize Rio Dulce & Mexico over 100 nautical miles of From the west end of Isla Utila to the Rio Dulce is just From the north side of the Caribbean and under the lee of the Greater Antilles, you From the north side of the Caribbean and under the lee Crisscrossing cruise through “the Hole”, There is a very good alternative if you do not want to Avoiding the Mosquito Coast desire to see all of the “Atlantic” side of Panama, once However, unless you have a If you cruise the Panama coast, you will pass through the San Blas Islands before you will pass through the San Blas Islands before If you cruise the Panama coast, Panama Providencia, go directly to San Andrés and if you do not choose to Beyond Colombia, • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers given the entry, the seas must be very calm. Just north of Chinchorro are Bahia del given the entry, the seas must be very calm. Just north nice anchorages but must Espiritu Santo and Bahia de la Ascension. These offer Chinchorro Bank on your starboard side. It is a biosphere reserve and there is a park Chinchorro Bank on your starboard side. It is a biosphere get the sense that you are ranger there who will charge a small fee per person. You environment. The diving here anchored in the middle of the sea, in a very beautiful is excellent. Cuba. Some may disagree, but I do not think that Belize can be considered a great Cuba. Some may disagree, but I do not think that Belize of coral reefs straddling the cruising area. However, Belize’s Barrier Reef, a series in the south, is 190 miles coast close to shore in the north and 25 miles offshore the world. For those who like long, making it one of the largest coral reef systems in scuba and snorkeling, it could be paradise. easy sailing. The Rio Dulce lives in a time warp. As you head up the river, you will easy sailing. The Rio Dulce lives in a time warp. As you are a great number of mari- keep pinching yourself to see if it is just a dream. There not anchor out on the river; it nas on the river; take your pick. Whatever you do, do attacks against cruising is not a safe anchorage owing to a past history of random boats, some violent. can proceed westward until you reach the west end of Jamaica or Grand Cayman, can proceed westward until you reach the west end Caribbean Sea to make for the where you can turn south and cross back across the conditions for those who Honduran islands. This makes for much easier sailing of Honduras are noteworthy desire less of a challenge for boat and crew. The islands a small national park that is and well worth visiting. Many cruising boats overlook article on the Cayos Cochinos in this area: the Cayos Cochinos (see Brenda Webb’s in the March 2013 issue of you will agree that it was west end of Isla Roatan. Take the small detour; I believe worth it. either from the ABC islands or from Colombia, which can route you to the islands of either from the ABC islands or from Colombia, which and make for Hispaniola Honduras and the Rio Dulce as well. Cross the Caribbean from the ABCs, or to Jamaica from Colombia. you get to the San Blas Islands, it is best to turn northwest and run the 250 nautical it is best to turn northwest and run the 250 nautical you get to the San Blas Islands, a This is best because Nicaragua’s Mosquito Coast has miles straight to San Andrés. called the Nicaragua Bank. This bank and the Mosquito large bank towards the north and, in addition, require you to cruise through an area Channel are not well marked boats, no facilities and a chance to get caught up in local where there are few cruising and sometimes on purpose). By heading for San Andrés fishing nets (set by accident you set yourself up to “turn the corner” around Cabo and then north to Providencia, by standing off and perhaps calling at the Hobbies Cays Gracias a Dios, Nicaragua it 83°11.35’W at the anchorage). From the Hobbies (a.k.a. Cayos Cajones, 16°2.06’N, nautical miles to Isla Guanaja, one of a group of offlying is just a little more than 150 can visit on your way to the Rio Dulce. Honduran islands that you you continue west. If you do not want to transit the Panama Canal, there are some not want to transit the Panama Canal, there are some you continue west. If you do the include offlying islands (Isla Linton), Portobelo and stops you can make that Bocas del Toro. economy will make you “persona grata”. economy will make you “persona are Panama and the San Blas Islands. The San Blas islands, known locally as Kuna San Blas islands, known the San Blas Islands. The are Panama and nautical miles. cays that extend over 80 than 300 small islands and Yala, are more indigenous Kuna independently by the of Panama but is governed The area is part this archi- Pacific when you cruise through a sense of being in the people. You get that boats; however, there are requirements accustomed to cruising pelago. They are permission from courteous and asking to visit. These include being have to be met make and after dark. The local women or chief” to stay on the island the local “mayor sell — MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 round, withgoodservice. through town,westoppedatCustomsto clearout.Itwasstraightforwardthistime buddies. We’donlyknowneachothera week,buthadagoodbond.Drivingback is alwaysatrickyaffair. choice ofthreedatesandtimes.Fixingfirm appointmentswhenarrivingbysailboat conversation, Ifinallyspoketoanagent whogaveme30secondstoconfirmthe in theUS.ThenearestUSembassywas inNassau,Bahamas.Afteraprotracted pushpit. make aboxandhadsomethreadedrodbenttofittingsecureit the compartment, soitmeantfittinganexternalsystem.Iarrangedforacarpenter to posite bottle.NoneoftheUSgasbottleswouldfit to replacemyrustingEuropeansteelbottleswithacom- to fillupwithcookinggasintheUS.Itwouldalsobegood to replacetheBritishregulatorwithaUSfittinginorder cure theproblem. it anddrillingascrewthroughthefittinghopefullywould couldn’t checkundersail.Removingthefitting,rebedding ing onitsbase.Thesealanthadfailed,somethingI guy andthefaultwasdiscoveredtobetillerarmrotat- quickly andprofessionally. me injustoveraweek’stime. replied thathedid,soIarrangedaflightforhimtojoin and askedifhewantedtosailwithmetheStates.He Europe, butnonehadmaterialized.Isenthimane-mail Stefano inSt.Martinlookingforacrewingopportunityto Nanny CayMarina,afewmilesdownthecoast. for theboom.Ithenheadedtoverywellsheltered electronics companytolookattheautopilotandarigger and amongTortola’sverygoodmarineservicesfoundan the sidesofmythroat. into Pussersbarwhereanice-coldbeerhardlytouched back inthestrongheatofmiddaysun,Iwasdrawn what Iexpectedforabusyyachtingdestination.Walking chatting withherboyfriend.Allverylaid-back,butnot a littlewhileusheredmein.TheCustomsladywasalso the attentionofaman,perhapsherboyfriend,butafter lady atImmigrationseemedmoreinterestedingetting expected areasonablysmartoffice,butnotso.Thelarge Immigration officeintheferryterminal.Isomehow road waslikelytoendupdead.IfoundtheCustomsand fast-moving truckswasthatanychickencrossingthis first impressionuponseeingadualcarriagewaywith colonial townwherechickensfreelycrosstheroad.My about ahalfhourwalk,goodwaytogetmybearings. merhead berth,asIwassingle-handed.Customs by acharteroperationandtheykindlygavemeham- ashore.” Hetookmethereandbacktotheboat. ATM. “Noproblem,”washisreply.“There’sonejust cessfully triedofferingfoodanddrink.Ineededtogoan amount owedwasUS$20.HavingnoUSdollars,Iunsuc- bled somethingaboutjustarriving.Herespondedthatthe “How longyoustaying,andwhendidarrive?”Imum- deep slumber.“Morning,Skip!”saidamanindinghy. secure, Ihadacoldbeerandsavouredeverysip. was tieduptoamooringbuoy.Thankfulbesafeand I headedtowardsFatHogBayonTortola.By0220hours anchoring isnotpermitted,soeventhoughIwasdeadbeat, But atCooperIslandtherewerenoavailablemoorings,and light IcouldmakemywaytoRoadTownandclearCustoms. find amooringonCooperIsland;thefollowingdayingood kicker fittingfromtheboom.Anotherjobonlist! lee side,theboomtriedtogybewithpreventeron,andforcerippedrod the emphasiswason“grab”.OnceItookjustalittletoolong.Thewindcame preventer lineontheboom.Itbecameatestofwits.IfIhadtograbsomethingeat, this becamehazardousastheboatquicklywantedtogybe,althoughtherewasa shooting buttonoavail,soIhandsteered.Occasionallyhadleavethehelm 12 knotstheautopilotrefusedtomaintaincourse.Itriedallsettingsandtrouble- try tofindapassageEurope,soIbecamesingle-hander. keep itthereforaseasoninstead.Mycrew,Stefano,decidedtostayinSt.Maarten readiness foralongtransatlanticpassage.IdecidedtotaketheboatFloridaand arriving inSt.MartinviaGuadeloupeandAntigua,Ibecameworriedabout At thesleepyairportatBeefIsland,Stefano andIgreetedeachotherlikelong-lost It wasnecessarytogetUSvisas,asStefano andIwereforeignersarrivingbyboat The nextjobwasthecookinggassystem.Iwouldneed I ranthroughtheautopilotproblemwithelectronics The riggingcompanyfitanewstainlesssteelplate I wantedtoheadnorthandneededcrew.hadleft I spentacoupleofnightsatthemarinainRoadTown My cruisingguidedescribedRoadTownasasmart Heading toRoadTown,Iradioedoneofthemarinasrun The followingmorningataponthehullwokemefrom Tortola forRepairs By nightfallIcouldmakeoutdistantlights.plannedto I setofffromSt.MartinatdawnforTortola,approximately90milesdownwind.In I departedSt.LuciaintendingtoreturnmySovereign40, Sailing fromSt.LuciatoFlorida THE VIRGINS,DRAND The PlansTheyAreA-Changing: BAHAMAS by SeanFuller Part Two:

Below: StefanoandSeanenjoyaCaribmomentaboard a goodplaceforrepairs Above: TheBritishVirginIslandsarefamousforchartering,butbackatthedockauthorfoundTortola Kaiso Nassau , toEurope.After Kaiso’s

—Continuedonnextpage boat ormoderncruiser;everylooked “wellseasoned”—someintheextreme. new surroundings.IncontrasttotheVirgin Islands,therewasnotasinglecharter “putty”. Goingasterngotusfree,andwe thentiedtoamooring.Weabsorbedour looked occupiedandotherssemi-orfully abandoned. their perches.Asweturnedacorner,the anchoragecameintoview.Someboats It wassilentexceptforthegentlehumof theengineandoddbirdswhistlingfrom ready tohelpoutifwedidgoaground.We motoredalongthemangrove-linedriver. whole bayisunsuitableforboatsdrawingmorethansevenfeet. to besureofthedeepestpartchannel,asmuchitwasveryshallow. The women. Wearrivedattheentrancetolargecreekdawn.Icheckedcharts finished upforgood—somethingtodowiththelowcostoflivingandDominican Tortola hadwarnedmewithawrysmilethatLuperónwaswheremanycruisers We carriedontoLuperón,whichislocatedinashelteredestuary.Ayachtbroker and mountainscoveritslength.Givenmoretime,itwouldhavebeengreattoexplore. can beveryrough,butonthisdayitwastranquilwithlightwindandsunshine. sionally gybingintotheshore.TheMonaPassagebetweenPuertoRicoandDR and funbutI’mprettysurethereisnomusicalcareeraheadforeitherofus! developed a“pan”orchestrausingkitchenpansandwoodenspoons.Itwasnoisy sailboats andbothfromafar. at night.Wedidthree-hourwatches.Duringthispassageweonlysawtwoother remained steadythenextfewdays;clearskiesandafullmoonassistednavigation to gybemaintainourcourse.Weweremakinggoodprogressandthewind trip wewouldbewithinsightofland,makingforaninterestingsail. Islands. Iestimatedwewouldbeatseaforthreetofourdays.Duringmuchofthis behind usaswefollowedthechannelthatseparatesUSandBritishVirgin way. Wehoistedthesailsandsoonwereonabroadreach,sunslowlyrising were luckywiththeconditionswecouldstopatoneofnumerouscaysalong stop intheDominicanRepublicfortwodaysandthenheadnorthtoNassau.Ifwe WiFi forthelasttimeandcheckedoutofmarina. Here wasthesolution! shaken thatdamnsteelbottle,liftedandweighedit,guessedthelevelsoon. cent andingoodlightyoucanseehowemptyitis.SomanytimesEurope,Ihad The pressuregaugeturnedouttobeunnecessaryasacompositebottleistranslu- We proceededtoaclearingbetweenseveral boats,then— A smallfishingboatcamecloseandseemed tobeobservingourprogress,possibly The northeastcoastoftheDRiswildandbeautifulwithfewsettlements.Lushhills Two SidesoftheDR We keptwithinsightofPuertoRicoasweproceededalongthenorthcoast,occa- One evening,aidedbyalittlebeerandthemotionofwaves,StefanoI We carriedontoarun,settingthepreventeronboombutoccasionallyhaving Up atdawn,Iwasexuberantinanticipationofourtripwest.Theintentionto ‘Pan’ onPassage Stefano andIsecuredstoredallitems,didthelast-minutechecks,used Returning totheboat,wefixednewboxpushpitandconnectedgas. Kaiso calummp ! Wehitthe MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 (full moon) 10 11 1328 12 1414 13 1500 14 1545 15 1629 16 1713 17 1758 18 1846 19 1936 20 2029 21 2127 22 2228 23 2331 24 0000 25 0035 26 0136 27 0234 28 0328 29 0419 30 0508 0555 (full moon) (new moon) 21 22 2056 23 2149 24 2246 25 2347 26 0000 27 0049 28 0153 29 0254 30 0352 31 0537 0446 June 2013 1 2 3 0625 4 0711 5 0757 6 0843 7 0929 8 1014 9 1104 1157 1240 MAY - JUNE 2013 OF THE MOON (new moon) MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE May 2013 DATE TIME 1 2 3 0505 4 0559 5 0651 6 0740 7 0827 8 0913 9 0959 10 1045 11 1132 1220 12 1308 13 1356 14 1444 15 1531 16 1617 17 1703 18 1748 19 1833 20 1919 2006 Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire Nassau, or New Providence Island as it is officially called, is low-lying and feature- officially called, is low-lying Providence Island as it is Nassau, or New A Surprise Ending to office called Customs, who said they would come We checked in and the marina appointment for at least three weeks, I called a friend Not being able to get another the trip was over… until the next voyage. Suddenly and unexpectedly, make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides! on our heading, there were two large objects on the horizon that neither of us could on the horizon that neither there were two large objects on our heading, would have to be trees, but these trees first Stefano thought they were make out. At redwoods grow of trees told me that no and even my little knowledge giant redwoods binoculars. The we looked through the As we slowly edged closer, in this region! never seen. Their the like of which I had out to be two huge buildings, objects turned Atlantis Resort They were part of the every other structure around. scale dwarfed out of Las Vegas. and seemed straight buildings, port we could make out more the bustling port, less. As we approached is very busy Nassau and Paradise Island like. The channel between cranes and such by smaller ships going back and forwards. As required with cruise liners and other into to the Port Authority to get clearance to proceed the regulations, we called ahead no very strong in the channel and we whipped through in the port. The current runs by at Nassau Yacht Haven among some cruisers. Close time. Soon we found a berth palaces with tinted windows and dapper crew. there were big white floating to up and Stefano went for a walkabout while I went the boat. We had a good clear to get hold of the embassy. catch up on e-mails and try it and he agreed to come collect the boat and deliver of a friend in Fort Lauderdale to Fort Lauderdale for me. . pollo y fritos Continued from previous page Continued from Dawn of Monday was overcast with still no sign of wind. At about 20 miles distant By midday on Sunday June 3rd, we were still nearly 50 miles away from Nassau. I was becoming concerned about whether we would be able to motor all the way I was becoming concerned about whether we would be able to motor all the way By the end of Day Two we were just east of Acklins Island. In the early afternoon Stefano and I settled into a watch system and took turns in the galley. We had a Four Days to Nassau The following morning we set off on a northwesterly course. We had four days to reach All the officials and marina staff were very friendly and amenable. The main advan- All the officials and marina staff were very friendly and Shortly after we tied up, officials arrived in a golf cart to have a look around the Shortly after we tied up, officials arrived in a golf cart Later we returned to the small town of Luperón, which consists of a main street linedLater we returned to the small After some coffee and a rest, Stefano and I took the dinghy ashore. In a corner of I took the dinghy ashore. and a rest, Stefano and After some coffee We stayed in Luperón two nights and then decided to head to Ocean World Marina,We stayed in Luperón two nights Our appointment was for 7 o’clock Monday morning. As we approached Eleuthera, I called the Spanish Town marina to see if there was any chance of getting any diesel. There were two problems: it was Sunday and they had no diesel. So we were resigned to carrying on. As we turned the island’s north tip, we altered course 90 degrees to a southeast course direct to Nassau. The night was calm and still the wind remained light. There was no chance of making the appointment, and no chance of calling ahead to cancel either. to Nassau. We had not taken extra fuel onboard, as I had optimistically assumed to Nassau. We had not taken extra fuel onboard, as I had optimistically assumed there would be enough wind and the fuel attendant had cheerily advised that prices were keener in the Bahamas and the US — but we still had to get there. The wind dropped to less than five knots as we motored toward Cat Island, a sliver of an island with glorious beaches stretching for an eternity. It was such a pity not to be able to take the time to explore these sun-blessed islands. It felt like the wind gods were teasing us as we drifted ever so slowly in a northerly direction. A sinkhole on the shoreline. ‘During much of this trip we would be within sight A sinkhole on the shoreline. ‘During much of this trip we of land, making for an interesting sail’ the wind dropped until we were barely moving. I jumped in for a swim to cool off and swam round the boat several times for exercise. For the next 24 hours, we had to motor-sail. Despite passing close to the islands, we didn’t sight land until we were close to Long Island. I was very glad to have invested in multiple charts of the islands and Waterway Guides, since the rhumb line turned out to be very different from the navigation route, owing to the number of shoal areas. big stock of staples including rice, potatoes and onions. I had tied a sack of onions to a hook in the spare aft cabin, the idea being to get more air circulating around them and preserve them longer in the hot, humid conditions. In the waves, the sack would dance around, and when hit by a large wave it would bounce wildly and hit the cabin side, bruising some of the onions. Attempts to lash it down were not suc- cessful and it became necessary to have least one onion with every meal. Nassau and make our appointment at the US embassy. The wind was a steady 15 or 16 knots on Day One and we made good progress. tage of the location is as a stopover for crew to chill out for a few days on the way tage of the location is as a stopover for crew to chill appeared to be left there for north or south. It serves that purpose well. Some boats the season by foreign owners. boat. The men in fatigues from the Marina de Guerra took us with our ship’s papers boat. The men in fatigues from the Marina de Guerra After a little while we saw to the marina office to clear in and register at the marina. lady in the Customs office the Customs officer, followed by Immigration. The pretty were formal, filling out the was elegantly dressed and, although the procedures for short-stay visitors paperwork here seemed easier and certainly better designed than at Luperón. most of the way, tacking towards the coast and then offshore again. Finally I couldmost of the way, tacking towards the coast and then up and down in the largemake out the channel for the marina, red buoys bobbing to avoid this port at night hadswell. As we approached in daylight, I felt the decision with the shore less than 150been the right one. Just outside the markers is a reef a tight turn into the marinayards away, leaving very little room for error. There was a concrete finger. Dominatingitself and the dockmaster soon directed us to a dock with “the best cabaret performancethe marina is a large building with a casino advertising away from the Wild Westin the Dominican Republic”. The smart marina was a world the DR, briefly. of Luperón. but we were fortunate to see both sides of with shops and bars. I changed some dollars for pesos in the bank. By the entrance,with shops and bars. I changed a big, antique-looking shotgun by his side. This, alonga security guard stood with buildings, gave a bit of a Wild West feel. We foundwith the dusty road and clapboard English reading “gringos welcome”, which was our invita- Wendy’s Bar with a sign in thePresidente beers in bamboo mugs (used to insulate tion. We were served cold stein, and had a very tasty bottle) about the size of a German the creek, to my surprise I saw a small boatyard with some boats docked stern-to. boatyard with some boats my surprise I saw a small the creek, to a 15-minute directions to Customs, about owner, who gave us We met the American as directed, with walked across a field along a track and then walk. We proceeded with no mark- time we arrived at a house at us curiously. After a short cows looking greeted him and in a hammock. I a vest and shorts was lounging ings. A man in the ship’s papers the translation. I got out speaks fluent Spanish, did Stefano, who seemed like we also in very casual attire. It Another man appeared, and passports. appeared from a man in army uniform someone’s house, but then had strayed into the We were directed to visit another building near the building and took charge. Customs office, where had to pay a small fee. We then docks. There we found the we office, followed by the Ministry of Agriculture. Finally had to visit the Immigration the Marina de Guerra (Navy) in the dinghy to inspect had to take a man from the The around and then we dropped him back on shore. boat. He had a cursory look of the morning. I was hoping it wouldn’t take this long whole process took up most as we were only planning to stay for two days. when leaving the country, — a distance of about 15 miles east, and clear out of the country there. We had to beata distance of about 15 miles MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 nation inironsbytheendofmonth. ing yourselftoaloveinterestwillhaveyour imagi- the 10th. tract youfromenjoyingashipboardromanceafter passes overyouremotionallife. board aspossiblebeforealow-pressuresystem Take thisopportunitytogetasmuchdoneon but willeventuallypass. seas withtheoppositesex.Squallsmightabound, aspects looklikeyou’reinforaspellofconfused lasting damage. ments withcreworcruisingpals,asyoucoulddo first twoweeks.Bewaryofgettingintoargu- creative frontwillmeetwithheadwindsforthe challenge. These willmakekeepingyouremotionalsealegsa course, especiallyinthesecondandthirdweeks. lusty fantasiestolureyoufromyourplotted annoyances couldmakeyoucrazy. from choppyseasinyourlovelife,wheresmall the hammockondeckwithagoodbook. them inthesaillockerforawhileandhangout month willonlyleadtofrustration,sojustput you willhavenodistractionsnextmonth. and headedinyourdirectionsoclearthedecks tionships sailingsmoothly.Loveisonthehorizon voyage thatisfreeoffoulweather. buddy willhelpyoumakesuccessfulchoicesfora your life. verbal skillstomakeprogressinthatsectorof helm towardsacreativecourseanduseyour the 10thitwillhavesailedaway,soturn best tolay. important informationregardingwhichcourseis 8th. Payattentiontothem,asyoucouldreceive Countercurrents intheformofdifficulty express- Don’t letobstaclesinyourcreativecoursedis- New boatprojectswillbetheorderofmonth. Keep yourarrowsinquiverthismonth,as It willseemthatwhatevertackyoutakeonthe There willbealotofromantictemptationsand Focus oningenuitythismonthtodistractyou Any innovativeboatprojectsyouattemptthis Concentrate onlifeaboardandkeepingrela- The adviceofafemalecrewmemberorboat The passionoflastmonthwillbewaning.After You mighthaveinspirationaldreamsaroundthe SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER MAY 2013 AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

Part 1 Moonhole Forming arelationshipstrongerthanblood. All thesenses Promise asafeharbor The surroundinghills The sunwarmsourskinand Light upourenvironment The changingcolorsofskyandsea Is musicinourears The ambientsoothingsoundofbreakingwaves Matches therhythmsofourlives The riseandfallofthesea Blows cobwebsfromourminds The windthatrefreshesusandgentlystrokesourbodies

— CharlesBrewer

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MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 has been proud to offer our younger readers a number of

Compass SALTY’S BEAT BY NATHALIE WARD BY NATHALIE SALTY’S BEAT

What’s the Commotion? Commotion? the What’s

in the Ocean! in the Sounds Abound Sounds Over the years, Marine biologist Nathalie Ward, PhD is a consultant for the United Nations OUCH! You can damage your ears from listening to very loud music. Whales’ and dolphins’ For Debate! Climate researchers are using a technique called acoustic thermometry to track Imagine acoustic (sound) smog over an entire island — having to shout over Unfortunately for many marine species, boat traffic creates incredibly loud noises. Unfortunately for many marine species, boat traffic creates Recent studies suggest that noise pollution can harm whales directly by damaging Recent studies suggest that noise pollution can harm These activities are becoming increasingly difficult as manmade noise in the sea These activities are becoming increasingly difficult as In the oceans, where distances can be long and visibility can be short, many ani- In the oceans, where distances Noise Pollution and Whale Behavior Noise Pollution and Whale of pollution they conjure up images of sewage spilling Usually when people think Environment Programme’s Caribbean Marine Mammal Programme. She has a home in the Grenadines, and while in the United States works for the US Marine Sanctuary Program. Now Nathalie is back with a new series, Salty’s Beat. We hope you enjoy it! sensitive ears can be damaged too. Their underwater world is not a silent place. Besides all the animal noises, humans make plenty of noise too. Motorboat engines whine. The dredging of a harbor makes loud bangs and clangs. And dynamite blasts BOOM. Ouch! educational columns focusing on Caribbean marine life, including Octo’s Ocean by Lisa Karnofsky, Sea Soup by Nathalie Ward, and Dolly’s Deep Secrets by Elaine Ollivierre. changes in ocean conditions due to global warming. Since the speed of sound in water varies with temperature, by transmitting and measuring low frequency sounds across ocean basins, scientists can monitor water temperature. But while this research may ultimately help protect ocean ecosystems, it may harm sound-sensitive animals like whales in the process. How should scientists balance the potential haz- ard to whales against the possible benefit to the marine environment? incredibly loud noise in order to communicate with someone close by. A person’s hearing can be damaged if exposed to noise levels over 75 dB over a prolonged period of time. The World Health Organization recommends that the sound level indoors should be less than 30 dB. For whales and other ocean animals that rely on echolocation sonar to communicate and locate food, noise pollution created solely by humans has taken a toll. Modern day supertankers cruise the oceans creating a sound pulse of 190 decibels Modern day supertankers cruise the oceans creating such as tugs and ferries (dB) or more at or below the 500 Hz range. Smaller boats ships create a virtual wall typically create a sound wave of 160 to 170 decibels. These of “white noise” that has a constant loudness. The problem with this noise is that it dominates the frequency ranges of 20 to 300Hz, the same range used by many spe- cies of whale. This white noise can block or “mask” communication attempts between cetaceans (whales or dolphins) or limit them to very small areas. their hearing, and in extreme cases, causing internal bleeding and death. More com- their hearing, and in extreme cases, causing internal bleeding can cause behavioral changes monly, it appears that excessive or prolonged noise feeding areas, detour that disrupt mating behavior or cause animals to abandon that interfere with the migration routes or interfere with communication — behaviors health and survival of the animals. has increased dramatically. Ocean noise is not contained within localized areas. Ship has increased dramatically. Ocean noise is not contained and the use of military traffic, oil and gas exploration, scientific research activities, increase in ambient marine sonar and communications equipment have caused an Its impact is widespread over noise of two orders of magnitude in the last 60 years. marine life. Noise from just a vast areas of ocean that will affect many aspects of square kilometres, raising single seismic survey can flood a region of almost 300,000 a time. noise levels 100 times higher, continuously for days at mal species rely on sound to communicate, navigate, and monitor their surround- mal species rely on sound fin ocean noise levels were low enough that blue and ings. Historically, ambient The with each other across entire ocean basins. whales were able to communicate both beautiful and vital to their survival. Using “songs”, clicks of sperm whales are with one another across several hundred kilo- humpback whales can communicate allows the animals to find food, safely travel along metres of ocean. Dolphin sonar to and from breeding and feeding grounds. Some irregular coastlines, and migrate to drive and confuse their prey. whales use bursts of loud noise into the oceans, massive oil spills, floating trash and maybe even toxic chemicals. spills, floating trash and maybe even toxic chemicals. into the oceans, massive oil easily left out of such thoughts. Noise pollution, however, is MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32

Lesser Antillesin Puerto Rico ABC Islands Trinidad Jamaica Haiti Cayman Islands Dominican Republic www.freecruisingguide.com CRUISING GUIDES

Compliments of: Boca Chica, DominicanRepublic www.marinazarpar.com FREE Marina 3 volumes Zar-Par ©2013 PeppertreePress.31pages.ISBN978-1-61493-154-6,US$14.99 Shipwreck Shops. Thomas atFishFace,theCooperIsland Resort,andinSt.Martin/St.Maartenatthe and thePeppertreePressBookstore.In theCaribbean,youcanfindcopiesonSt. tures andhelpchildrenlearntheirABCs alongtheway. waters oftheCaribbean,youcannowshare thebeautyofyoursnorkellingadven- grandchildren orfriends’children.Ifyou areacruiserandluckyenoughtobeinthe don’t beputoffifyouhavechildren. Thisisagreatbooktosendhomethe seen differentcreaturesinherbook.(See photoabove.) connected withthechildrenwhowereproudtoputuptheirhandsthattheytoo had press, sheentertainedthechildrenwithareading.Shewaslivelyandengaging and activity arrangedtomarkInternationalBookDayinMarch.Withherbookhotoff the ries ofanimalsandsailing.Whatcruisingkidisnotgoingtolovethat? ects includingtwomorechildren’sbooksthatsheplanstowriteandillustrate: sto- writing aboutherexperiencesalongtheway.Andsheisfullofideasforfutureproj- Beneteau 36,andispursuingherdream:cruisingtheCaribbeanwhilepainting and working onthischildren’sbook.Recentlyshemovedaboard years. Now,focusingherloveofnatureonthesea,shehasspentlasttwoyears in theBVI.Watercolourishermediumandshehasbeenabotanicalartistformany look thesameasonestheyaresimultaneouslylearningtowrite. ing font.Forchildrenlearningtheirletters,itisalwayseasierifthelettersinabook letters withthisbookismuchmorefunthanmanyoftheconventionalABCbooks. own experiencesnorkellingandseeingmanyofthecreatures.Soforhim,learning his wants ratherthanbeconstrainedbyrhymes. enables theauthortosaywhatshe not rhyming,whichisrefreshingand sure, anchor,orropeonamooring.It’s sea lifeoftenfoundontheseabed:trea- or sealifeillustratedaswellthenon- reader’s attentiontotheindividualplant also hasasentenceortwotodrawthe found throughoutthebook.Eachletter all theindividualcreaturesanditems the backthereisapictureglossaryof difficult tofindsealifeexamplesfor.At for X,YandZ,which,let’sfaceit,are combined overtwopages,andthesame the exceptionofU,VandW,whichare rich piratehistory! or otherwise,despitetheCaribbean’s lucky enoughtospotanytreasure,gold we can’tcommenthavingneverbeen writing onthecoinsbut,unfortunately, gold ontheseabed.Italmostlookslike rotfish. Thereisalsogooddetailinthe ers andveinsrunningthroughtheoctopus,tocoloursscalesonpar- throughout theartworkinthisbook,fromhairsondiver’slegs,tosuck- certainly usesaveryfinebrushforherwatercolourillustrations.Thereisgreatdetail ner jokesthatshepaintswithathree-hairbrush.Whetherthisistrueornot,Lori full ofinterestingandaccuratedetail(thepinkeeleyelashesaside!).Lori’spart- “Remember theflounderwesawwhenweresnorkellinginSaints?” and beabletosay,“Hey,we’veseenoneofthose!Wherewasit,Dominica?”or makes itallthemoreadorable.WhatadelighttolookthroughsimpleABCbook most ofthecreaturesandreeflifebeautifullypaintedinthisbook.Andthat’swhat watching overtheeggs? are adorablebecausetheyhaveeyelashes:Iguessthemummyfish especially pink!AndIthinkthelittlefishswimmingaboveeggsonthispage and greensofeelswere“abittooboring”sheadmittedlovesbrightcolours, Lori chosetopainttheeelpink.toldusshepainteditpinkbecausebrowns page becausethey’veseeneelshereintheCaribbeanandtheythinkit’sfunnythat Hasselfeldt’s newbook, You canbuy This bookisespeciallycharmingifyou are cruisingandhavesmallchildren.But We wereluckyenoughtomeetLoriinSt.Maarten.Sheattendedthecruisingkids’ This isLori’sfirstbook.SheacertifiedMasterGardenerinMinnesotanowliving If Ihadonecriticismofthebookitwouldbethattextdoesnotuseahandwrit- For myfour-year-old,itisallthemoreinterestingtolearnhisABCswhenhehas The bookhasapageperletter,with Whether yourchildcanreadorislearningthebasics,heshewillfindthisbook In fact,havingbeencruisingintheCaribbeanfortwoyearsnow,wehaveseen “The slitheryEelisswimmingnearthefishEggs.”Sosayspagefor“Ee”ofLori The UndertheOceanAlphabetBook BOOK REVIEWBYTANYAPOWER-STEVENS ‘Hey, We’veSeen One ofThose!’ The UndertheOceanAlphabetBook The UndertheOceanAlphabetBook , writtenandillustratedbyLoriHaselfeldt, onlineatAmazon,Barnes&Noble . It’smykids’favourite Reality Check , a MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 described in the other popular guides. NOT Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of information the anchorages the guide he used was Norie and Wilson’s ALL Until Don Street wrote his first guide in 1964, Until Don Street wrote his first guide in 1964, GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS in Fort Lauderdale, or contact [email protected] in St. Lucia, Sully Magras in St. Barts, and Blue Water Books & Charts in St. Lucia, Sully Magras in St. Barts, and Blue Water Books “Sailing Directions to the West Indies”, published in 1867. “Sailing Directions to the West Indies”, published in the Eastern Caribbean. In 1980 Street said in print that if anyone could come up with an anchorage safe for a boat that draws seven feet that he has not covered in the guide he would buy the drinks. drinks. Thirty-two years have gone by and he has never had to buy circle in Street’s Guide Real sailors in the Windwards, Leewards and Virgin Islands the anchorages that are Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anec- dotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe on tracking & securing for a storm Do the same and you will have quiet anchorages. HURRICANE TIPS! Street’s Guides are available at Island Water World and Johnson Marine Hardware Street’s Guides are available at Island Water World and [email protected] www.marigotbeachclub.com [email protected] is no lyri- The Desperate had a thick black coat of oil The Desperate Cycle Nicely laid out, with easy-to-read Nicely laid out, with easy-to-read However, the first few chapters are However, the first few chapters For readers who like a book packed , by Tony Tame. Savant Books and , by Tony Tame. Viking print, cal offering. Protracted as the writ- cal offering. Protracted as authority ing is, Tame writes with and understanding on Jamaica’s them the dilemmas, foremost among a life- fishing industry, having had used in long interest in “the methods and the various types of fishing and people who work in this field” supply being “directly involved in the the com- of service and equipment to Jamaica” mercial fishing industry of since 1970. takes us thin on story line, as Tame behind the scenes of a coffee farm, a Member of Parliament’s visit to his constituency, and a water treatment plant. Further on, Tame explores island politics, the fishing industry, and fishing grounds as well. Not to be left out is Tame’s narrative about the gangs and the drug trade in Jamaica, and the effects of pollution on the environment, mainly as it affects the sea — one of the “desper- ate cycles” he deals with in the book, another being about an impover- ished fishing family. with information, this one’s for you. The book opens in the vicinity of the ff . But the preceding chapters read more like . But the preceding chapters ll k i’ The Desperate Cycle J

ti

M is a meaningful and interesting narrative that gives readers the picture. This book is available from www.savantbooksandpublications.com. There is no doubt that Tame knows the fishing scene in Jamaica inside out. In relating “The boy had gone abroad, apparently at the invitation of Mr. Martinez. That was Just when the sea was beginning to heal and fishing was on the rise, a shipping Martinez “thought Peter was a very bright-looking youngster and he was keen on “Jamaica, No Problem!” is the title of the penultimate chapter in Tony Tame’s the title of the penultimate chapter in Tony Tame’s “Jamaica, No Problem!” is At first, he sold his fish only to his father’s friend Joyce and the guest-house While still at school, which was of no interest to him, Peter built a little skiff for himself It is only in Chapter Four, when certain named characters begin to appear on the It is only in Chapter Four, when certain named characters “And the sea took it. That’s what it does. Most of mankind has always reasonably “And the sea took it. That’s what it does. Most of mankind The Desperate Cycle: A Novel from Jamaica The Desperate Chapter Two, tasked with We meet the nameless “new Member of Parliament” in Like Father, Like Son Like Father, Like Cycle the tale of an impoverished fishing family, he makes clear the factors that negatively impact on the industry and the people who earn their livelihood in it. not surprising because the two seemed to have developed a rather unlikely friend- ship. The watchman hoped that Mr. Martinez might be able to suggest something to the boy now that harbour fishing was surely destroyed. Perhaps Mr. Martinez could think of something. Something interesting.” running along the water line…. accident in the harbour caused, “Oil. Oil on water. Thick oil. Heavy, killing oil. Suffocating, blanketing oil,” and the sea once more became polluted, again heralding an environmental disaster. “Even the sparkling Bl getting to know a few youngsters just like him. Peter must stop by any time, wheth- er he had fish to sell or not. He was quite sure that one day soon he could tell Peter about things that would interest him… Mr. Martinez felt sure that Peter was a kid with ambition and, sooner or later, this business of catching a few dozen fish for a whole night’s work would begin to get boring. But one could never be certain.” And so, Mr. Martinez sets in motion the perpetuating of one of the desperate cycles. enlightening book, owner who employed Peter’s mother and put them both up after Splinter was killed. But with Peter’s first big catch, “He rowed towards the marina where he knew for- eign yachts moored.” There he met a young yacht owner from Colombia, Alberto Martinez, who gave Peter more money for a few of his fish than Peter had ever received before. Publications, First Edition 2013, 248 pages. ISBN 987-0-9852506-9-0. Edition 2013, 248 pages. Publications, First Yes Problem!” than a novel, as Tame elucidates some a discourse on “Jamaica, Jamaican issues. and ventured out to sea, thus carrying on the tradition of his father and grandfather. scene, that a plot emerges. In this chapter titled “The Social and Economic Scene”, scene, that a plot emerges. In this chapter titled “The and the hardships of the men Tame introduces his readers to the world of fishing that sets in motion “the who earn their living by this means. This is the chapter his son Splinter, Pedro, a desperate cycle”, when on his way home one night with medication, was mistaken for sick fisherman who did not have the means to buy his Splinter always remembered a gang member by the police who severely beat him up. the humiliation. When the sea became polluted and the fishing wasn’t going well, Splinter became involved with drugs and a life of crime. Years later, when Splinter was executed by the police in a roadblock, the act was witnessed by Peter, Splinter’s six-year-old son. assumed that is what the sea is there for. It looks big enough to take care of us and assumed that is what the sea is there for. It looks big time. It is patient and forgiv- itself as well. And it has been there for an awfully long ing to insults.” “Tidying Up” as he tours his constituency area with “two bored-looking representa- “Tidying Up” as he tours his constituency area with “two their unpleasant assign- tives from the Public Works Division”. The three undertake discarded appliances, tins, ment amidst horrible smells and sights of “garbage and drain. Sheets of cardboard, and less identifiable objects which littered the floor of the and decide the best option is strands of fiberglass matting, cloth and plastic bags”, to push the offending garbage out to sea. Blue Mountains, Jamaica’s well-known coffee-producing region. Mr. Akiyama, a Blue Mountains, Jamaica’s well-known coffee-producing conglomerate, compares Japanese manager of a coffee farm owned by a Japanese disciplined society in which the working habits of “his orderly nation” with the “less in High Places”, Mr. Akiyama he now lived”. In this first chapter, “Poison and Power and the pros and cons of also has to deal with the pest known as the coffee borer chemically treating the coffee. BOOK REVIEW BY J. WYNNER BOOK REVIEW MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 of our the Caribbean. “must read”foranyoneconcernedaboutyachtingin provide thecontentthatmakes many aspossibleofthepastyear’scontributorswho together with,andsaying“thankyou”inpersonto,as pre-Easter Writers’Brunchisourwayofgetting Pizzeria inBequia.CompassPublishingLtd.’sannual Compass Writers’BrunchatthepopularMac’s their specialguestsgatheredforthe17thAnnual Compass 17th Annual Admiralty Bay. who overseesthemorningVHFCruisers’Netfor Bookshop andproprietoroftheFigTreeRestaurant, present wasCherylJohnson,manageroftheBequia South GrenadaRegattaattheendofFebruary.Also February 5th,2013,aswellthewell-established new GrenadaSailingWeek,heldJanuary31stthrough committee memberswhoorganizedtheverysuccessful Phare BleuMarinainGrenada,wasamongthetireless last December.AndLynnFletcher,managerofLe launching thatisland’sinauguralMangoBowlRegatta was instrumental,alongwithotherSLYCmembers,in Membership SecretaryoftheSt.LuciaYachtClub, nature regattasinneighboringislands.AnnePurvis, course, ourcontributors.Ourmaincontentcomes planning togoabroadpursuefurthereducation. of theofficeteamforpasttwoyears.Shelleseis Bookkeeper ShelleseCraiggforbeinganexcellentpart Dederer —tooktheopportunitytopubliclythank Elaine OllivierreandProductionManagerWilfred Tom Hopman,EditorSallyErdle,Assistant

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia Appropriately forBequia’sbigregattaweekend,two On March28th,34 The The starsofeveryCompassWriters’Brunchare,

special guestshadrecentlyhelpedorganizesig- Compass CockpitCrew—ManagingDirector Compass contributors,staffand

Caribbean Compass

Tel: (758)4520299 a

Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. of actionstakentodeveloptheyachtingsector Grenadines, SirJamesMitchellgaveaninsider’sview Right: AsaformerPrimeMinisterofSt.Vincent&the contemplate thecurrentyachtingissues. Above: After12magazineissues,contributingwriters sloop 30 yearsago,whenTomandIwerelivingaboardour speaker withananecdote:“Onceuponatime,about thank you,too,forallyourtalentandefforts. many contributorsunabletoattendthisyear,we writer andcruisingsailorChristineWebster.Tothose reporter andyachtracerJerryStewart,feature Grenada SailingAssociationFrankPearce,regatta John Lytle,regattareporterandVice-Presidentofthe liveaboard sailorRuthLund,poetandcruising cruiser JeremyHobday,featurewriterandlong-time and sailorNanHatch,featurewriter40-year circumnavigators CorneliaandCharlesBrewer,poet and formercharterskipperBobBerlinghof,poets their guests,were(inalphabeticalorder)bookreviewer experiences andopinions.Attendingthisyear,with Caribbean Seaandshorecansharetheirnews,views, ing communityandothersconcernedwiththe instead weprovideavenuewherethoseintheyacht- of reportersinordertogetapredictableresult,but ing intheCaribbean.Wedon’tassignstoriestoastaff from peoplewhoreallyare“outthere”:livingandsail- bearded windsurfingvisitorinthesaltyswimtrunks to chat,soweinvitedhimcomeaboardfortea.Our the harborpulledupalongside.Thefellowproceeded when awindsurferwhohadbeensailingupanddown dock. Weweresittinginthecockpitoneafternoon Editor SallyErdleintroducedthisyear’sguest Writers’Brunch So Long FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE , weweremooredneartheGingerbread Fax:(758)4520311 Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners

e-mail:[email protected] (2) DEDERER WILFRED overindulged, timeforanap! it wastimetopreparefortheraces—or,thosewho Simmons andtheexcellentMac’sPizzeriastaff.Then and ascrumptiousbrunchbuffetpreparedbyJudy period, convivialconversationscontinuedoverdrinks ties whohavenoyachtingexperience.” have noexperiencewithgovernment,orfromauthori- that level;usuallywehearfromoursailingpeerswho someone whoisbothknowledgeableandinvolvedat commenting, “It’sreallyinterestingformetohearfrom yachts arrivingforregattas. encouraging theadoptionofin-and-outclearancefor owners tobepreservedfornon-commercialuse, ment’s acquisitionoftheTobagoCaysfromprivate ers. HiseffortshaverangedfromtheSVGgovern- one oftheislandchain’smajorforeignrevenueearn- after thedemiseofbananaindustryknockedout yachting industryintheEasternCaribbean,especially ly, intryingtofosterabeneficialenvironmentforthe government, andlocally,regionallyinternational- the groupabouthisexperiencesbothinandoutof in St.Vincent&theGrenadines.SirJamesspoketo pioneer theintroductionofyacht-friendlyregulations professional andrecreationalsailorsfaceledhimto rather thanYachtClub.Hisknowledgeofwhatboth Sailing Club,insistingonthenameClub yachtsman andwasafoundingmemberoftheBequia Easter Regattaheadquarters.SirJameshasbeena Bequia, nearwhatisnowtheFrangipaniHoteland the largestcargoschoonerevertobeconstructedin father builtthe165-foot,three-masted prime ministercomesfromaseafaringfamily.His tion totheCommonwealthofNations),former George, whichhonorsindividualsforservicesinrela- Knight CommanderoftheOrderSt.Michaeland Minister windsurfovertoyourboat?” — inhowmanyplacestheworlddoesPrime helped tocementourdecisionlivehereinBequia of StVincent&theGrenadines.Ithinkthatincident was noneotherthanSonMitchell,thePrimeMinister After alivelyquestion-and-answeranddiscussion His remarkswerewellreceived,withonelistener Now knownasSirJames(havingbeenappointed Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint Gloria Colita , MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

FIGURE 4 The relative positions of the planets at sunset on May 15th The relative positions of the The planets from space on May 15th Nice grouping of Venus, Mercury and Jupiter on May 29th, just after sunset Earth-Moon system: The Earth’s tidal bulges are driven by friction to be ahead of the Moon’s orbital position. The friction slows the Earth’s rotation, and the bulges accelerate the Moon in its orbit , Burford Books, ©2007. THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN

by Scott Welty

The Why Book of Sailing May 2013 May of years from now and at that point the Earth day will be 47 hours long. of years from now and at that point the Earth day will billions

http://eclipse.gsfc.nasa.gov/SKYCAL/SKYCAL.html Scott Welty is the author of Website of the Month site to get a basic overview of what’s One of the sites I like to use is the NASA - SKYCAL Now for the time scales: The moon moves away about three to four centimeters per year Now for the time scales: The moon moves away about To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck of how that is slowing down the So the next time you’re just watching the tide roll in, think What does all this mean and where does it end? The moon will continue to speed up moon will continue to speed up What does all this mean and where does it end? The The reason for the tides in the first place (thank you Isaac!) is the moon’s pulling a you Isaac!) is the moon’s pulling a The reason for the tides in the first place (thank Time and Tide moon and tides — but has it always All sailors are well acquainted with the rhythms of the 24th - Full Moon Jupiter in the evening sky (see 23rd - 31st - Nice grouping of Mercury, Venus, and EARTH - Thinks it might be getting a wee bit crowded here! EARTH - Thinks it might be evening all month and then up all night. SATURN - Rising in the early Sky Events This Month 9th - New Moon Venus just after sunset. 11th - Crescent moon inserts itself between Jupiter and 22nd - Saturn is easy to locate just east of the moon. the moon just barely slips into and 24th - Penumbral Lunar Eclipse. Basically invisible, as The Planets in May Mercury, (see Figures 1 and 2). As you can see, on May 15th Well, they’re mostly hiding happening in a particular month. You put in your time zone and some other info and then happening in a particular month. You put in your time sky events. Check it out — but don’t you can get a calendar for the week, month or year with stop reading the column! while the length of the day lengthens by about 0.0016 seconds PER CENTURY. Look at it this while the length of the day lengthens by about 0.0016 synchronous orbit predicted above will way — a dinosaur day was only 23.5 hours long. The happen many Earth… hey… longer to closing time! “BEER TENDER!” and move away and the Earth will continue to slow down. At some point the moon will be down. At some point the moon will be and move away and the Earth will continue to slow to go to France, for example, to see fixed above one point on the Earth (so you might have the same as the rotational period of the moon!) and the orbital period of the moon will be the Earth. Think how much more you could get done! bulge of water out on the Earth (and a similar bulge 180 degrees around on the other side 180 degrees around on the other side bulge of water out on the Earth (and a similar bulge spinning and this drags the bulge a of the Earth: see Figure 4). But the Earth is also chasing this bulge and the bulge little ahead of the moon itself. So the moon is always is that the moon speeds up and as a accelerates the moon a little in its orbit. The result Conservation laws being what they result moves out a little farther away from the Earth. else and the somewhere else are tell us that you have to pay for this increase somewhere by the tidal bulge is slowing down is in the length of the day on Earth. The drag caused the Earth’s spin. been this way and what does the future hold? We measure things on the scale of a lifetime been this way and what does the future hold? We measure don’t really change. You could print and in a lifetime the moon’s orbit and the resulting tides patterns and be very accurate. But the a tide table for the next 1,000 years based on current staggeringly long time periods. Earth-moon system is dynamic and slowly changing over Figure 3). out of the penumbral shadow of the Earth. Venus, Mars and Jupiter are all within 30 degrees of the Sun. So Mars will not be visible at all within 30 degrees of the Sun. So Mars will not Venus, Mars and Jupiter are Mercury the Earth from behind the Sun. Jupiter, Venus and all as it plays peek-a-boo with a special grouping in the last week of the month. will become evening stars with The Sky in in Sky The MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 are accepted. for restaurants, hotels, villasorsimply toenjoy athome Provisioning for yacht charters, largeorsmall orders multi grainbreads, croissants, etc. lamb, steaks, frozen bread suchasbaguettes, petitpain, Seafood, shrimp, prawns, smoked &fresh salmon, fish, exotic meats, salami, turkey, prosciutto, juices, etc. We cheese, offer anexcellent selectionofimported CALLIAQUA, ST. VINCENT Tel: 456-2983orFax: 456-2987 [email protected] WE ARE SITUATED IN Ocar, Downstairs Coco’s ALSO INBEQUIA or you cancallusat Tel: 458-3485

by upto2030percent? than joggingforthesamelengthoftimeanditmayalsoincreaseyourlungcapacity level offitness.Didyouknowjusttenminutesswimmingcanburnmorecalories and effectivecardiovascularendurance-basedactivitiesthatcanincreaseyour ming, skippingandstrengthtraininginthecockpitorcompanionwayarealleasy strengthening musclesthatassistwithourdailyactivities.Walking,rowing,swim- vascular endurance.Theseexercisestargetourheart,lungsandcirculationwhile the water. knows theimportanceofbeingabletoactandreactanygivensituationouton upon sailingforphysicalactivityandbecomeotherwisesedentary.Buteverysailor perform taskswithgreaterease.Onboardtheboat,itisacommonhabittorely good healththroughoutourlives.Exercisecanassisteventheweakestpersonto tional change. range ofmotion,cardiovascularoutput,strengthandenduranceactivitiesornutri- exertion, dehydration,lethargyorinjury. aren’t prepareditcouldmeanthedifferencebetweeneasysmoothsailingandover- Though, howoftendoweconsiderourhealth? special concoctionofequipmenttoensurethesafetyourcrewandourselves. mum foodtypeswhilesailing? tion? Areyouactivebothnearandfarfromthesea?Doseekouteatopti- tasks onboardtheboat?Howwouldyouphysicallyrespondtoanemergencysitua- the Caribbean.Visitherwebsiteatwww.marissanieves.com. able toenjoyeachnewbeginningwiththe zestforlifeyouseekthroughsailing. ongoing healthandvitality.Allowyourself towakeupfreshandenergizedeachday, Think ofyourbodyasownvehicle to abetterlife.Decidebetherecipientof we becomeweakandtiredoften.Avoidstarvation atallcosts. energy atalatertime.Withoutwe mayfindourmusclesbecomedepletedand unavailable. Itwillbeginstoringfatsjust incaseitneedstoconverttheminto has alreadycommencedworkandourbodyisundertheimpressionthatfood is ful ofnutsandacombinationseedsisperfectsnackforonthego. are ontherunanddon’thavetime,takeasnackwithyoutoeatway.Ahand- it morechallengingforyourbodytoburnfatandofcourseutilizeenergy.If you to yourintakewillhelpcreateadietthatisfilledwithnutrient-richfoods. vegetables, addingacombinationofproteinsfromnuts,seeds,leanmeatsandlegumes solution toensureyoureduceconsumptionofbacteriaandharmfulchemicals. sible andalwayswashyourfruitsvegetablesinaone-to-threevinegar/water lost throughbreathing,sweating,seasaltandurination. to yourlongsailorrace.Alwaysusefreshcleanwaterreplenishfluidsthatwere life. Drinkplentyofwater(add500mlstoyournormalintake)inthedaysleading up task ofhydratingwillnotonlyincreasealertnessandenergylevels,itcouldsaveyour situations. Itisreadilyoverlookedandevendeemedunimportant,butthesimple of thenecessarynutrientsitrequirestoperformwellatwork,restandplay. to getthroughourday. hours, weareaidingahealthymetabolismandgivingourbodiessustainedenergy important toeatfrequently.Byeatingsmall,palm-sizedmealseveryonetwo with onetotwodaysrestbetweenworkouts. improve musclestrength). and bodyweightactivities(usetwoormoreoftheseinthesameplantofurther erences andincludesavarietyofequipmentsuchasresistancebands,freeweights all musclebalance.Ensurebothupperandlowerbodyareworked. use momentum). faster results. before performingintenseexercise.Thiswillallowforsmoothrecoveryand health onadailybasis: into ourbodiesandreapthebenefitsofabetterbody! can wedoaboutthis?Wemakeachoicetoputonlyqualityandpremiumfuel tives andpreservativesinwhatwouldotherwisebenaturalfoodproducts.So etary returns,foodcompaniesareusingfeweroptimumingredients,andmoreaddi- order toobtainmassproduction,longershelflife,highersalesandincreasedmon- daily activities.Thesearealldirectlyrelatedtothefoodweconsume. vitamins andmineralsneedtobeabsorbedgiveustheenergyundertakeour other chemicalsrequireactivereleaseinthebraintomakeusfeelhappy,andcertain ity ofyournutritionalfueldetermineshowwellbodywillbeabletofunction. THE HEALTHYSAILOR pp yp It iseasytoperformalittleresistancetrainingeachdayforstrengthandcardio- Exercise isimportantforallofusandweneedtolookafterourbodiesensure Your functionalityandlevelofenjoymentcanimprovewithincreasedflexibilityor Exercise andnutritionarebothvitalcomponentsofeffectivesailing,ifwe As weleavetheshoresonouradventures,generallyneverwithout Do youenjoyeachdayfilledwithenergyandvitality?Arefittocarryoutthe Marissa Nieves,apersonaltrainerandnutritional consultant,iscurrentlysailingin You havetakenupthelifestyleofachosen few,andthemostimportanttimeisnow. • AVOIDSTARVATION.Oncewefeelhungry,thehungermechanisminourbrain • EATREGULARLY.Skippingmealscanleadtoadecreaseinmetabolism,making • INCREASENUTRIENTVALUEOFMEALS.Inadditiontoawidevarietyoffruitsand • EATLOCAL.Seekorganicorfarmedproducefromlocalmarketswhereverpos- • HYDRATE.Dehydrationisoneoftheleadingcausesdeathinsurvival-at-sea • EATYOURGREENS.Thisisaquickwayofknowingourfuelcontainsvariety • EATOFTEN.Toincreasemetabolismandourbody’sabilitytoburnfat,itis • EXERCISEOFTEN.Workouteachmusclegroupatleasttwotimesperweek, • DYNAMICPLAN.Createanexerciseplanthatworksinalignmentwithyourpref- • CHOOSEFULLBODYWORKOUTS.Createaprogramthathelpstoachieveover- • USECONTROL.Performallexerciseswithcontrolledmovement(i.e.trynotto • WARMUP.Alwaysspendsometimewarmingyourmuscleswithlightactivity Here areafewsimpletipsforussailorstoensurewedoingthebestour So muchofthefoodavailabletoustodayrevolvesaroundeaseandfastfixes.In Muscles requirecontractionthroughspecificnervepatternsthatallowustomove, While exercisesarethebuildingblocksofastrong,stableandablebody,qual- than joggingfor thesamelengthoftime?’ of swimming canburnmore calories ‘Did you know justtenminutes by MarissaNieves MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 : The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 …and much more! Read in 473-440-7260 OR 473-409-7260 473-440-7260 OR Ashore in Marie Galante Compass EMAIL US - [email protected] BLUEBEARD ENTERPRISES BLUEBEARD Summer Reading for Sailors Next Month’s $BMM6To8F%FMJWFSt3FHJPOBM%JTUSJCVUJPOt(SFOBEB Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta 2013 Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. both for the domestic and

Pineapples of Lucky us — pineapples thrive in most parts of According to Cleremont Farms in Antigua, few The first factor is the resilience of the pineapple For 250 years, pineapples have been grown in The pineapple is also one of the most important the Caribbean the Caribbean. other crops can boast the pineapple’s tolerance to hurricanes. Two major factors contribute to this amazing ability of pineapple plants to continue to grow and produce after a storm. leaf to mechanical damage, thanks to the form of the pineapple leaf, their strong fibrous structure and tough cuticle surface. Secondly, the roots of the pineapple are of two types. The first roots to establish are thick, tough anchoring roots reach- ing to 16 inches depth. These keep the plant anchored in high winds so that the fine fibrous roots, responsible for most of the nutrient uptake, are kept intact and functioning. the Bahama Islands. At one time plantings on Eleuthera, Cat Island and Long Island totaled about 12,000 acres. In Martinique, a cannery was built in 1906, and in 1959 eight factories pro- cessed 22,000 tons. As of 1971, Puerto Rico and Martinique were among the world’s ten leading exporters of fresh pineapples. In Puerto Rico, the pineapple is the leading fruit crop. Two vigorous hybrids of the popular Smooth Cayenne and Red Spanish varieties were developed at the Agricultural Experiment Station of the University of Puerto Rico and released in 1970. With excellent fruit quality, a high yield, sweeter, less fibrous and good for marketing fresh and for canned juice, they were introduced into Venezuela about 1979. fruit crops in Guyana, export markets; the Sugar Loaf variety is cur- rently being produced organically and processed into chunks and juices. Trinidad’s pineapples are of a superior quality and desired by the European markets. Antigua produces the unique Antigua Black variety of pineapple, which belongs to the “Queen” group. Queen pineapples produce small (two-pound), conical fruit renowned for their golden yellow flesh, crisp texture, low fibre, low acid, high sugar content and delicious taste. Mix grated coconut with pineapple from core pieces, Allow to cool and serve with a spring of mint. ‘Half-Baked’ Pineapple ‘Half-Baked’ 1 pineapple, peeled pinch of salt coconut 1/4 of a ripe 2 Tablespoons brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon pinch of nutmeg 2 ounces of dark rum (optional) dessert. My husband created this wonderful making two cylinders. Cut peeled pineapple in half, salt and let sit for about Rub cavities with a pinch of sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Pack the hollow cylin- ders to the top with coconut mixture. Pour in rum if desired, one ounce to a piece. Wrap pineapple cylin- ders in foil so they stand upright and bake at 350°F for 20 to 30 minutes depending on size of pine. serving. a hollow pineapple. Do not Carefully core each, leaving Slice off the soft meat pierce top or bottom with knife. as small as possible. from the harder core and chop the meat from the dry 20 minutes while you remove the brown part, and coconut, pare off and discard grate the white part. is actually made

) SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL AT SEA BY SHIRLEY SERVING because the exterior appeared because the exterior appeared ananas comosus piña A PASSION A PASSION Pineapple is one of God’s best tasting, yet strangest Pineapple is one of God’s best Pineapple and Sweet Potatoes 4 pounds of sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped 1 medium onion, chopped as finely as possible 1 clove garlic, minced 1/2 pineapple, peeled, cored and chopped salt and spice to taste Put sweet potato pieces into a medium pot with four Salt and spices to taste Crush a few pieces of the pineapple for the juice. Mix Pineapple Salad 1 pineapple, peeled, cored and chopped small 1/2 medium mild onion, sliced thin and chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 1 pimento seasoning pepper, seeded and minced 1 Cup of one of the following: cooked or canned The juice is an excellent marinade, tenderizing Two slices of a regular-sized pineapple has about 60 Pineapple not only tastes good, but also is good for If you are buying, a ripe pineapple should be firm Pineapples are usually grown from the suckers that After bananas, pineapple is the second most popular Hawaii is almost synonymous with pineapple. Hawaii is almost synonymous with pineapple. The pineapple originated in southern Brazil where The pineapple originated in FOR PINEAPPLE FOR creations. This fruit does not grow on a tree or a bush, creations. This fruit does not leathery leaves with a ser- but on a bromeliad with stiff These leaves grow around rated edge that can cut you. Although it looks like a a center spike we call the core. cactus, a pineapple ( Cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil and lower heat. Simmer covered for 20 minutes or until ten- der. Drain. In the same pot combine with all remaining ingredients. Cover and let sit for half an hour before everything together in a bowl. It is best to let sit for at least an hour in the fridge. Great for a sandwich or as a healthy snack on toasted bread, roast bake, or bis- cuits. tuna; boneless cooked chicken, chopped; or boneless cooked pork, chopped meats while adding a tropical flavor. calories with no fat or cholesterol. Pineapple contains vitamin A, vitamin C, calcium, phosphorus, manganese and potassium. This fruit is a good source of fiber. Since it has a lot of carbs, it’s great for an energy boost. you. Pineapple juice is chemically close to our stomach you. Pineapple juice is chemically close to our stomach juices. Consumed moderately, pineapple aids diges- tion. It has plenty of fiber and helps the body relieve fluids, especially mucus from nasal passages. Never consume an unripe pineapple, as it can cause throat irritations and diarrhea. and sweet smelling, with a fresh green top. It is ripe if and sweet smelling, with a fresh green top. It is ripe if one of its top leaves can easily be pulled out. To reduce the acid content, permit the pineapple to sit for three days before using. To increase its sweetness, lightly salt the cut fruit and let sit before eating. form around the stem at the base of the fruit. A popu- lar children’s garden project is to plant the top of a pineapple in a pot of soil. tropical fruit. Pineapple is the third most canned fruit, tropical fruit. Pineapple is the third most canned fruit, after apples (i.e. applesauce) and peaches. Captain Cook is credited for bringing the pineapple to Captain Cook is credited for bringing the pineapple to Hawaii in 1790, but it was probably brought by Spanish explorers much earlier. Steamship transport in the mid-1800s made commercial production feasi- ble. Canned pineapple wasn’t financially feasible until an engineer, Henry Ginaca, invented a machine in 1911 that could remove the outer shell, inner core and both ends of 35 pineapples in less than a minute. In 1922, because of the demand for pineapple, James Dole bought the entire Hawaiian island of Lanai and converted it into the world’s largest pineapple planta- tion with 20,000 pineapple-producing acres. as a pinecone, yet the interior tasted like an apple so as a pinecone, yet the interior apple”. Two centuries later, in English it became “pine pineapples were being grown throughout the Caribbean chain. French King Louis XIV loved the sweet fruit’s taste so much he forgot his manners and cut his mouth trying to bite an unpeeled pineapple. He trea- sured the fruit so much that glass “greenhouses” were created to grow them. Pineapples became a status symbol, both as a party decoration and as a dessert. Indians named it “anana”, meaning excellent fruit. Indians named it “anana”, pineapples with their These native Indians planted their villages to keep out sharp prickly leaves around discovered the Carib intruders. In 1493 Columbus on the island of Guadeloupe. Indians growing pineapples His sailors called it up of the fruits of hundreds of individual flowers that up of the fruits of hundreds of the plant. When mature, cluster on the center spike swell with juice. the pineapple’s fleshy tissues to four pounds, but the Pineapples are usually two than 20 pounds. Giant Kew type can be more MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 +1-201-825-1400 [email protected] boatbladders.com MADE IN MADE PROUDLY Ramsey, NJUSA Space Saving > > Simply Unfold & Fill with Std. Nozzle Std. with Fill & Unfold Simply 50, 100, 150, 200, 250, 300 & 500 Gal. 500 & 300 250, 200, 150, 100, 50, Gasoline and Diesel Compatible Diesel and Gasoline Available in 7 Convenient Sizes Convenient 7 in Available DESIGN ® Always In Stock! ORDER NOW! EXTENDER RANGE Dear Glandore, Ireland Don Street the TobagoCays. barrier reef,wheretheycanenjoyallthefeaturesof guides.com, LeewardsUpdatessection. on Roseaumooringstohiswebsite.See www.doyle- Spray I Devlin McIntyre before ourdepartureat1300hours. the mooringfailureandtellus.Buthenever appeared return withourrefundandtoinvestigate thecauseof next dayhewasallperplexedsmilesand promisedto provide badlyneededassistancewhenrequested.The The reprimandisforthemooringoperatorwhofailedto better thanaproperlydeployedandvisualizedanchor. tor, unlessthereisnootheroption.Therenothing even ifprovidedbya“reputable”recommendedopera- is reinforcedformeagaintonever,evertakeamooring, wall poundedbyasurgelookedunforgiving.Thelesson mooring andsterntieourboatwassafe.Thecement then wewouldhavebeenonshore,contentthatwitha minutes laterourboatwouldlikelyhavebeenlostasby nary arteriesbutiftheeventhadoccurredonly20 First, ofcourse,noharmwasdoneexcepttomycoro- missed happyhourbutmadedinnerattheEvergreen. immediate responseandrelocationtoanewmooring.We tion calltoDesmondofSeaCatservicesbroughtan pushing onshoreandnomooringoperator!Adespera- holding indeepwater,darknesscoming,heavyseas tie andmovedaheadtodropanchor.Therewaspoor the cementretainingwallofhotel,Ireleasedstern ries bothaVHFandcell. again andreceivednoreply.Ishouldmentionhecar- boat inthedistance,henevercametous.Wecalled waited andand,despiteseeinghimtieanother indicated hewouldbebyshortlytoassistus.We and didreceiveareply,presumablyfromhiswife,who descending wecalledourmooringoperatorontheVHF formed intactloopsfloatinginthewater.Withdusk was proceedingdowncurrentandourtwobowlines tion thatwehadpartedfromthemooring.Thefloat Momentary disbeliefwasfollowedbytherapidrealiza- denly noticedthebowofboatswingingsideways. attend happyhourattheAnchorageHotel,wesud- ticularly unusualatthatlocation. also sterntied,asitwasquiterolly,whichisnotpar- new andinexcellentcondition.Atourrequestwewere to amooringthatwewereassured,uponasking,was operator inthearea.OurTartan3700wasdoublytied guidebook; weknewhimtobealong-timemooring boat assistantwhomwehadreadofinapopular as acautionarytale. have resultedinthelossofourboat,isreportedhere in Roseau,Dominicarecently.Thisevent,whichcould Dear Bays (pages133to135 miles ofsuperbanchorageatWateringandGrand Grenada andintoSt.Vincent&theGrenadines. hassle ofclearingCustomsandImmigrationout Tobago Cays?Todothistheyhavetogothroughthe of Grenadaallthewaytoover-rated,over-crowded parties withlimitedtime,fightfromthesouthernend cruising yachtsmanisnotthinking. anchorage ofWindward,Carriacou,Iseethatthe Compass FFORUM RREADERS' ROSEAU MOORINGCAVEAT Editor’s note:ChrisDoylehasaddedarelevant note There isalessonandreprimandinthissituation. Finally, inordertopreventusfromcrashingbackinto On theseconddayat1730hours,whilepreparingto On arrivalweengagedtheservicesofacertainlocal My wife,Joanne,andIhadaverydisturbingevent WHY NOTWINDWARD? On theWindwardsideofCarriacoutherearefour Why docruisingyachtsmen,andespeciallycharter Looking atthecoverofDecemberissue O E Compass Compass R A withaphotooftheuncrowded,sheltered U D , , M E R Street’s Guide S '

), protectedbya Dear shop dockabout2:30 Guadeloupe allmorning.Whenhereturnedtothedive March 14thhehadbeenworkingashoreatBouillante, design foraliving,to“keepusafloat”sospeak.On 6:00 dock rightwhereheleftit. “bread andbutter”wasstillsittinguntouchedonthe friends togoseeaboutthebackpack.Amazingly,our Still dinghy-less,wecalledovertoourFrenchboat of glass-bottomboatanddivetouristsalongthedock). images ofabeachfullpeopleandthecontinualflow hour later,herememberedthebackpack(alongwith the motorpiecebylittlepiece. boat undertowandbegantodisassembleclean to lethimusetheirwater).Anyway,hereturnedour fresh water(theguysatthediveshopwereverykind cruising friendsandhosingitdownwithgallonsof motor outofthewaterwithhelpsomeFrench computer down,hegotdistractedwithgettingthe poundings, wehadarecipefordisaster). corroded metalplatethatdisintegratedwiththe (between thewavesandwakes,bashing neath thedockandourmotorsubmergedinwater —Continuedonnextpage them as“passersby”buttruefriends. and Dr.Dany,fromnowonIwill notthinkof husband’s life.IamtrulygratefultoRuth, Carl,Shelly tion, whichpossiblyandmostprobably savedmy he promptlyandconfidentlyadministered aninjec- before Dr.Danycameaboard.Onseeing myhusband with myhusband,tryingtokeephimtalking tome. for thedoctorandwhileallthiswastaking place,Iwas and woketheproprietors,CarlRuth.Theycalled gency. HeracedovertotheWhalebonerrestaurant boat. Itoldhimneededadoctor;thiswasanemer- up, shoutedbackandwithinminutes,hewasatmy closest tomeandshoutedforhelp. went upondeck,shonemyflashlightattheyacht request immediateemergencyhelpviatheVHF.NextI very closetogoingunconscious.Itried,noavail, profusely andrapidlybecamelesscoherent.Hewas welt-like rashalloverhisbody.Hebegansweating night, myhusbandsuddenlystarteddevelopinga through. Onenightrecently,aboard,justbeforemid- derful people,someofthemlocals,justpassing years nowaboardouryacht,wehavemetmanywon- Dear tool forchoosingcruisingdestinations. (www.safetyandsecuritynet.com) theCSIisauseful the wellestablishedCaribbeanSafetyandSecurityNet around thecrime,ratherthanthroughit”.Alongwith the ideathatCSIindexcanbeemployedto“route types ofcrimeindifferentpartstheCaribbeanwith ing nearly2,000registeredusers. com/caribbean-security-index-csi). TheCSIreportshav- CSI (CaribbeanSecurityIndexatfreecruisingguides. Phil Kellett Best wishes, The themewas“howtoavoidbeingavictim”. people attheCoconutGroveSailingClubinMiami. January wegaveacruisingsafetylecturetoover50 seminate ittoallourcruisingfriends.Infactin visit theplacesyourecommend. rental car. but notcruiserinnature:acamerawasstolenfrom and thetownitselfsafestplacewehadvisited. to bethemostsecurityconsciousmarinawehadvisited of crimestatistics. You haveaddednumberstoouranecdotalassessment and votewithoursails,avoidingthedangerousareas. Panama andMexico.Weconcurfullywithyourreport Venezuelan mainlandandCentralAmericabetween everywhere intheCaribbeanexceptBarbados, Moon Dance five yearscruisingfulltimeintheCaribbeanaboard Security Index).Mywife,Nell,andIhavespentthelast Dear Dr.Hebson, Day Dreamer Lisa regain connectivitywithourclients. tion atarnishedreputationwhilewescrambledto have takentoreplaceitandthecomputer,notmen- the fourtofive“BoatBucks”andmuchtimeitwould SECURITY REPORT! A positivestoryforachange.Myhusbanddoesweb The result?CallitDivineinterventionornot,by When theadrenalinebegantowearoffaboutan Setting hiswaterproofbackpackcontainingouronly What seemedlikeageswasinfacta shorttime Fortunately, Shelly,aboardtheyacht As regularyearlyvisitorstoBequiaforalmost12 A HUGETHANKYOU! Catherine createsstatisticalprobabilitiesfordifferent Editor’s note:CatherineHebsonistheauthorof Many thanksforyourexcellentwork;wewilldis- We returntotheCaribbeansoonandwewillonly The onlycrimeweweresubjectedtowasinBonaire, In MexicowefoundElCidmarinainPuertoMorelosa Congratulations onyourexcellentreport(Caribbean OPEN LETTERRE:SECURITYINDEX Cheers! PM Compass Compass , ourmotorroaredtolifesowe’llbeablekeep , ourTayana55.Wehavebeenalmost , , PM , hefoundourdinghyunder- Treviljor came MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 N.V. New address: Accessible by dinghy Fax: + 1721 545 2889 Cel: + 1721 556 4967 to all Diesel Engines Fuel Injector Service Marine Engineers Parts, Sales and Service Servicing all Gearboxes Suppliers of Donaldson Filters AND WARRANTY WORK Overhauls, Repairs and Service Marine and Industrial Generators AUTHORISED DEALERSHIP DIESEL OUTFITTERS Bobby's Marina Airport, Airport Road 32,St. Maarten N. A.

Readers, GUY DEAN GUY Compass or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia VC0400 St. Vincent & the Grenadines After the weather cleared, we sailed to Bequia, there cleared, we sailed to Bequia, After the weather to help of great winds we continued Then with the was in a hurry because our grandchild We had been places in the island Well, we had a glimpse of many have been exploring and Now still in Trinidad. We in the lovely Caribbean It all has been wonderful time Dear We want to hear from YOU! Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Send your letters to: [email protected] islands have been good to us, no trouble, but here…. been good to us, no trouble, islands have come soon, so bad weather with more to We arrived in gave to sail anywhere. The authorities we didn’t want marina with- and I had to stay in the me only a week, to explore the island. out opportunity the night. to stay only for Prickly Bay, Grenada. in Trinidad, so we really supposed to come to join us the islands from St. had very little time to enjoy we read our e-mails and Thomas to here. And then make it — what a frus- found that the child couldn’t trating trip! if it was for very short chain and enjoyed them, even Grenada, with the while. We lingered in beautiful nature, and then set friendly people and extraordinary sail to Trinidad & Tobago. by ourselves, meeting enjoying in group tours and world, sharing time and lovely people from around the in the pool of Coral parties, “noodling” water aerobics Cove and practicing yoga. and from life. waters — truly a gift from nature Luz Adriana Quintero (“Nana”) Adverse Conditions address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Please keep letters shorter than 600 words. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. , making our way , while taking divers to , while taking AM Adverse Conditions , Readers, Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from On March 28th at 9:00 On March 28th DIVING WITH WHALES DIVING WITH I cannot thank them all enough. I cannot thank Life is precious. We started from St. Thomas in 2011 aboard our We started from St. Thomas OUR DANCING HOUSE I have been exploring the My partner, Spencer, and By the time we arrived in St. Lucia the weather was After three nice days in Dominica, we untied the Portsmouth, Dominica: What a view! The green of Deshaies, Guadeloupe: We stopped here for the At Montserrat, with its volcano and strong currents Nevis: We stayed here just for the night, took some St. Kitts: Here we stayed in the Port Zante marina at Then we sailed to Statia; this tiny island has amaz- St. John: Great spot with picturesque shopping Soper’s Hole in Tortola invited us to hike in lovely Norman Island: Another amazing spot full of history Dear Helen Yenrah II — dancing house, Dear waters in the Caribbean beautiful jewels and turquoise sunsets and sunrises, Islands: blue sky, amazing hearts. happy people and adventurous Carriacou’s Point Cistern dive site, Lumbadive boat Cistern dive site, Lumbadive Carriacou’s Point a humpback whale near captain Vaughn noticed closer, Vaughn saw Mabouya Island. Getting slowly whales swimming together. that wasn’t one but three in the water to join the Three delighted divers jumped surface upon hearing the whales, who went below the entered L’Esterre Bay to approaching boat. The whales before finally heading then returned to Sisters Rocks day, three more whales toward Grenada. On the same going north. were seen near Hillsborough, Diane Martino, General Manager Lumbadive Carriacou bad, and unfortunately I am a Colombian, which means that I need to obtain a visa beforehand for most of the places in this world. Some of the Caribbean mooring and headed to Martinique, another treasure of the Caribbean islands, combining French-style food with the tropical atmosphere of the Caribbean. natural plantations, hills and mountains, with great clean swimming water and friendly people. We picked up a mooring here — not too expensive — and enjoyed the beauty of the island and people. night, too, and our dolphin sea friends came very close to our bow, jumping and singing for us — what a lovely and spectacular show! of water, we just stayed for the night. pictures and went to sleep with the nice dancing waves. Basseterre. We saw astonishing sunsets and had a great time. ing natural beauty, and very happy smiling faces. stores, and very friendly people too. hills and to have a great swim after the hike, finishing hills and to have a great swim after the hike, finishing the day with a happy hour with tasty cocktails. about pirate treasures hiding in the secret caves; it about pirate treasures hiding in the secret caves; it was another gem to enjoy with clear waters and won- derful weather. down to Trinidad. Our first stop was in the British down to Trinidad. Our first stop was in the British Virgin Island of : what a pretty spot! We enjoyed the white beaches and the happy hours. MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 in thecruisingclasseshonesyourabilitytosailboatitsfullestpotential Most cruisersarenotracers,buttakingtheopportunitytocrewonaracingboatorenteryourhome start thatisexactlythesameasanyother.Different could happenandoftendoes.Thereisnever,evera invisible linebetweencommitteeboatandpin.Anything up”, thecountdownasbowshoveranddipbefore and liningup,hearingthecallsof“starboard”,“up, tee boat,watchingthesleekhullsflashingtheirbellies when helpingwiththestartprocedureoncommit- been evenmoredramatic.Thistensionisalsofelt In thedaysofusingcannonstostartitmusthave straining toseetheflagsandhearhornsounding. and crewskeyedup,timingpacingthemselves, it, withyachtstackingandgybingallaround,skippers pumps atthelead-uptostart.Thereisnothinglike I loveracing. Bequia EasterRegatta,Itriedtoanalyzeexactlywhy and strongwindsfromahighlyenjoyable2013 ing aboard.RompingbacktoGrenadainlargeswells for, butalsoaddedaspecialmagictoouryearsofliv- or assistingwithsailboatracing,notonlypreparedus boats duringourstudentyears,andparticipatingin oceans. Startingindinghiesandgraduatingtokeel- long beforewesetoffinourcruisingboattocross captain andfirstmateon First thingthatcomestomindistheadrenalin Most cruisersarenotyachtracers.However,the appear in of the Ahoy, PORTSMOUTH AREA: ROSEAU AREA: Caribbean Compass Compass Wop Bar Purple TurtleBeachClub/Restaurant Indian RiverBar&Grill IGA WhitchurchSupermarket Dominica MarineCenter Blue BayRestaurant Big Papa’sRestaurant Sea WorldBar Fort YoungHotel Evergreen Hotel Drop AnchorBar Dominica MarineCenter Dive Dominica Anchorage Hotel bold Racing Disguise Cruiser Crewin PICK UP! ): Readers!WheninDominica,pickupyourfreemonthlycopy Baraka atanyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue werekeenracers byRuthLund on thewater.Linedupthreedeepdockat frustratingly misread. sails rippedtoshredsinwildwind,ortrickycurrent which therearealwaysafew—crewfallingoverboard, Especially whenrecoveringfromsomegoof-up,of without awordbeingspoken,sailingispurepleasure. make theboataccelerateandperformitsbest,often its paces,eachdoingtheir(sometimestiny)partto great teamwork.Whenawell-oiledcrewgoesthrough with gloatingglee.Thereisalsothesatisfactionof chase, footbyhard-foughtfoot,someonetoovertake even whenlastinthefleet,thereisalwayssomeoneto enter aracetheycan’twin,butfordie-hardracers, and mainupwind.Somefolksaytheydon’twantto the downwindlegasthereisinconstantlyplayingjib much concentrationonkeepingthebagdrawing downhauls and,ifthecrewisworththeirsalt,as drawing withoutatangleofsheets,guys,uphaulsand windward mark:thepanictogetspinnakerupand favorite Caribbeanword—confusion,atthefirst ing endlesslychallenging. changing seaconditionsarewhatmakessailboatrac- boats, differentstrategies,andofcoursetheever Of courseregattasaremuchmorethantimespent Then thereisusuallymoreexcitementand—a

WHAT’S ONMYMIND WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED when youraceaboattoitslimitsonthehighseas. the oceanandveryspecialcommunityyoujoin about themysteriousrelationshipbetweenmanand It’s notabouttheprizes,partiesorprestige. brought hometomewhatsailboatracingisallabout. veterans ofthelargerkeelboatfleet.Beingpartitall to becomemorecompetentandcommittedthanthe heavy winds,continuallywetandbruised,promising Surprise andJ/24yachtsfromafar,toughingitoutin waves. Enthusiasticyoungsterssailedtheirtiny and remarkablerescuesofmenboatsinrough small double-endersdoingfeatsofbalanceandgrace hurricane threats. and impromptupartiesinacrowdedcockpit,despite an intimateregattawithgrilledlobsteronthebeach conditions, andwelovetohopacrossCarriacoufor provide somepowerfulcompetitioninperfectsailing ors intheCaribbean.Grenada’sfriendlySailingWeeks opportunity tocompetewithsomeofthehardiestsail- of theseasoniswellworthwelcomereceivedand of theirown.ThelonghauluptoBarbadosattheend then therearethesmallereventsthathaveaflavorall dreds ofhotshotsandtheirhi-techmachines.And Regatta wasexciting,nevermindcompetingwithhun- bridge attheyachtclubforSt.MaartenHeineken watching theparadeofcompetitorsgoingthrough turies, wasaunique,humblingexperience.Just continue atraditionaliveonthislittleislandforcen- Harbour alongwithfamousyachtsandskippersto a lifetimedream,sailingoutofhistoricEnglish ity. GoingtoAntiguaRaceWeekwasthefulfillmentof Trinidad andacrosstoTobagowasahighallinitself. the dockandonwayupNorthCoastof made. Thecollectiveanticipatorybuzzatthebar,on on thedecks,lastminuteadjustmentswerebeing likely competitors.Downinthebilge,upmastand provisions anddiscussingthreatsfromweather were borrowingtools,dumpingexcessweight,loading Regatta waslikegettingreadyforanexpedition.Guys of 20TriniboatsgettingreadytosailtheTobago Trinidad &TobagoSailingAssociationaspartofafleet word beingspoken, sailingispurepleasure’ At BequiaEasterRegatta2013therewerecrewsof Every regattawehavebeentohasitsownpersonal- the boat perform itsbest,the boatperform oftenwithouta their (sometimes tiny) part tomake their (sometimestiny)part goes throughitspaces, eachdoing ‘When awell-oiledcrew MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 xecutive E 2,000,000 $950,000 €340,000 $ 2007 73’ Catana 2007 50’ Catana 2000 47’ $199,000 45’ 1987 Hatteras SF 2* 40 HP 160 000 € 2* 40 HP Lagoon 410 S2 - 2006 $749,000 $619,000 €4.900.000

Charter Version - 4 Cabins / 4 heads - 4 Cabins / 4 heads Charter Version 2008 89’ Catana 2008 89’

Lagoon 2008 50’ 1999 60’ Fountaine Pajot 1999 60’ Sail Power MONOHULLS CATAMARANS [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 775-4803 www.stthomasyachts.com St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 www.stthomasyachts.com AMEL 54 2008 AMEL Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, $339,500 Warranty - Like New 599 000 € Warranty Air Cond Full options 1 Year Amel Year Air Cond Full options 1 110 HP Volvo! . Genset . Water Maker . Genset . Water Volvo! HP 110 Lagoon 500 - 2011 3 Cabins - Like New Lagoon 500 - 2011 Lagoon 470 - 2002 3 Cabins - New Engines Lagoon 410 S2 - 2003 - Owner Version SOLD € 550 000 220 000 €

Amel 54 2008 full options Amel Super Maramu 2000 Superb Beneteau Oceanis 500 - 1988 Charter version Hunter Marine - 2007 - Private boat full options Beneteau 50 - 2007 Owner Version PRICE ATTRACTIVE DUFOUR 385 - 2005 - 37 - 1996 - Owner boat Jeanneau SUN ODYSSEY 89 000 € 100 000 US$ 179 000 € 49 000 € 179 000 € 259 000 € 599 000 € 62’ 1984 Gulfstar Sailmaster 62’ 1984 Gulfstar Sailmaster ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES YACHT THOMAS ST. 26’ 2001 Twin Vee Extreme Twin Honda 4 strokes, trailer 35’ 2002 Maxum 3500 Mercruiser 320 HP, genset 28,000 40’ 2000 Cruiser Express, 2 strms, AP, 125,000 48’ 2004 Dyna Craft MY 3 strms, A/C 250,000 66,900 Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale 37’ 1997 Hunter AP, sugar scoop, clean 40’ 1992 Caliber, 2 strms, 2 heads, great cond. 44’ 1977 CSY full bimini and dodger, new main 47’ 1983 Vagabond Voyager, needs work 63,000 98,000 69,000 60,000

went to press — but plans change, Compass CALENDAR [email protected] please send the name and date(s) of the event Ride Antigua Kiteboarding Festival. www.nonsuchbayresort.com All information was correct to the best of our knowledge

ProKids Bonaire Slalom & Freestyle Championship, Bonaire. ProKids Bonaire Slalom & Freestyle Championship, Bonaire. so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Vincy Mas (St. Vincent Carnival). www.discoversvg.com Highland Spring HIHO windsurfing and SUP race. www.go-hiho.com

Bonaire Kiteboard Week. www.bonairekiteweek.com St. Lucia Dinghy Champioship. St. Lucia Yacht Club (SLYC), Budget Marine Challenge, Curaçao St. Croix Reef Jam. www.reefjam.com Mayreau Regatta Launching of Schooner Ruth, Barbados. NEW DATE! St. Lucia Jazz & Arts Festival. www.stluciajazz.org St. Lucia Jazz & Arts Festival. and the name and contact information of the organizing body to at the time this issue of International Optimist Regatta, St. Thomas. St. Thomas Yacht Club Caribbean J/24 Open Championships, Barbados. Jost Van Dyke. 39th Annual Foxy’s Wooden Boat Regatta, Tortola. www.bvimusicfestival.com BVI Music Festival, Cane Garden Bay, www.prheinekenregatta.com Puerto Rico Heineken Intl Regatta. Martinique. http://yoles-rondes.net Martinique Yole Festival, Ste. Anne, www.sailbarbados.com Mount Gay Rum Barbados Regatta, St. Maarten. www.coyc-sxm.com 9th Annual Captain Oliver’s Regatta, Martinique to St. Lucia Race. www.clubnautiquedumarin.com, St. Thomas. International Optimist Regatta, St. Barth’s Theatre Festival. www.saintbarth-tourisme.com

Triskell Tour Race, Guadeloupe and Dominica. www.triskellcup.com Combat de Coques, Martinique. Club Nautique du Marin (CNM), [email protected] Windsurf Challenge, Curaçao.

International Billfishing Tournament, 63rd Ernest Hemingway Laser Championship, St. Maarten. St. Maarten Yacht Club (SMYC), 5th West Indies Regatta, St. Barth’s. www.westindiesregatta.com Grenada Drum Festival. www.grenadagrenadines.com Club (RBVIYC), BVI Dinghy Championship, Tortola. Royal BVI Yacht St John, USVI 14th Annual Budget Marine Commodore’s Cup, (Sovereign’s Birthday) Public holiday in BVI and Anguilla Petite Martinique Whitsuntide Regatta. www.grenadagrenadines.com Canouan Whitsuntide Regatta Quantum IC24 International Regatta. RBVIYC J/24 Caribbean Championships, Barbados. Barbados Yacht Club (BYC), Solstice Summer Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Labour Day) Summer Sailstice. www.summersailstice.com FULL MOON Parties at Trellis Bay, Tortola; West End, Tortola; and Nevis Fisherman’s Birthday. Local boat racing in many communities Day) Public holiday in Belize (Sovereign’s (Indian Arrival Day), Anguilla Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Discovery Day) Public holiday in Cayman Islands Bay, Tortola; West End, Tortola; and Nevis FULL MOON Parties at Trellis Day) Public holiday in Guyana (Independence BVI. www.pokerrunbvi.com Leverick Bay Poker Run, Day) Public holiday in Haiti (Flag (Whit Monday) Public holiday in many places If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, World Environment Day Public holiday in the Bahamas (Labour Day) Tortola BVI to Start of Atlantic Cup rally from Nanny Cay Marina, Start of ARC Europe, Tortola to Portugal. www.worldcruising.com Dinghy and IC24 Races, San Juan, Puerto Rico. Public holiday in Guyana (Arrival Day) Club (NYC), Round Booby Island Regatta, Nevis. Nevis Yacht Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis (Labour Day) some places (Ascension Day) Public holiday in

Public holiday in many places (Labour Day) Marina Hemingway, Cuba. Cuba. JUNE Hemingway, 3 – 7 Marina www.hemingwaycuba.com/hemingway-fishing-tournament.html 5 7 8 – 9 11 – 16 15 – 16 tel (599) 544-2075, [email protected], www.smyc.com 16 [email protected] 16 tel (758) 452-8350, [email protected], www.stluciayachtclub.com 17 – 23 19 20 22 (STYC), tel (340) 775-6320, [email protected], www.styc.net 22 - 24 [email protected] 22 – 23 23 28 – July 9 29 J/24 Club of Barbados, [email protected] 30 – July 7 TBA 27 30 31 – June 2 (Anguilla Day), Haiti (Mothers’ Day), and many other places (Corpus Christi) TBA TBA 21 24 24 – 26 www.foxysbar.com/woodenRegatta.html 24 – 26 24 – 27 26 26 26 www.prokidsfreestyle.com TBA 2 – 5 3 – 5 3 – 5 4 4 4 Bermuda and US East Coast ports. www.worldcruising.com 4 – 5 www.royalbviyc.org 4 – 5 Club Nautico de San Juan, www.nauticodesanjuan.com 5 5 www.nevisyachtclub.com 6 8 – 12 9 9 – 11 www.clubnautiquedumarin.com 9 – 12 10 - 18 11 – 12 12 16 – 19 17 – 19 18 18 – 20 www.stluciayachtclub.com 20 20 – June 14

1 1 – 12 MAY MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 DOMINICA YACHTSERVICES PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 YACHT SERVICES - Relax!Leavetheworktous MID ATLANTIC Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices www.midatlanticyachtservices.com EU-VAT (16%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! www.dominicayachtservices.com [email protected] +767-448-7701 Fax +767-275-2851 Mobile/445-4322 Dominica Roseau &BaySt.Portsmouth 18 VictoriaSt. Hubert J.Winston [email protected] CARRIACOU REALESTATE Property ManagementonCarriacou Tel: (473)4438187Fax:8290 Phone (473)4436500orcallCH16 e-mail: [email protected] We alsohandleVilla Rentals& or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: Carriacou RealEstateLtd Sunday Brunch 11.30-14.30 Sunday Brunch Reservations recommended Reservations Open 11.30-2.00for Lunch Situated ontheSouthSide Land andhousesforsale Tyrrel Bay,Tyrrel Carriacou Use ournewDinghyDock 6.00 -9.00for Dinner Tuesday toSaturday www.carriacou.net Bar openallDay of Tyrrel Bay. Tyrrel of continuedonnextpage

www.tortugal.com [email protected] RIVER LODGE Tel: 502.5306.6432 Jeff Fisher–Grenada(473)537-6355 and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthechartertrade well-built sailsthatarewellsuitedtothe for acompetitivequoteonruggedand Check outourwebsiteorcontactusdirectly S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminiumitems. TechNick Ltd. saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou welding. Fabricationandrepairof ☛ Engineering, fabricationand www.neilprydesails.com Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 Nick Williams, Manager [email protected]

Grenada NEILPRYDE Sails REMEMBER HHotel MarinaRestaurant o t e l

M a r i n Compass a

R Guatemala Rio Dulce Fronteras e s t a u r a n t !

MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

S e A r V o N t A S C

• e && CANVAS

S A n L I i I U A r Q S

a E S B E

M •• BEQUIA • N Rigging, Lifelines Rigging,

I r D A e filters, nuts & bolts, impellers, impellers, & bolts, nuts filters, N p Bequia - Port Elizabeth E i bilge pumps, varnish & much more. much varnish & bilge pumps, R Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 Piper Marine Store PPiper Marine Stocked with lots of marine hardware, marine hardware, with lots of Stocked (784) 457 3856 • Cell: (784) 495 2272 • VHF 68 (784) 495 2272 (784) 457 3856 • Cell: NEW SAILS, SAIL REPAIRS, U/V COVERS FOAM LUFFS, BIMINI, DODGERS AWNINGS, DINGHY COVERS TRAMPOLINES,STACKPACKS SYSTEMS &JACK LAZY GGRENADINES SAILS continued on next page R A ! BBAR

&&

T N A R U Compass A : US NAVY PRODUCT : US NAVY PRODUCT T S E Permanent Antifouling RRESTAURANT

E (PPG Ameron) T REMEMBER S

A (10 years and more…) Tyrone Caesar Tyrone TTASTE

[email protected] right in the heart of Gros Islet right in the heart of Gros Phone: + (590) 690 221 676 N COPPERCOAT E Port Elizabeth, Bequia ☛ D Genuine local and international cuisine Genuine L Fiberglass + Epoxy & Polyester Resins Epoxy primer + Polyurethane Top Coat to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in Marine Engine Services O Time Out Boat Yard Saint Martin BOAT PAINT & STUFF ANTIFOULING SPECIALIST CARIBBEAN DIESEL T/F: 784-457-3114 Cell: 784-593-6333 T/F: 784-457-3114 E-mail: [email protected] For reservations & information Tel: (758) 450-9792 Tel: reservations & information For St. Vincent & the Grenadines VC0400 St. Vincent GGOLDEN                         Rigging   Electricity Electronic   F  Shipchandler D  P  E T F R D A P C  E  T D R N A I C W  S D E N L I B W A M Marine Electrics S U Watermakers G Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean S [email protected] A N L O F # LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE Tel: +(596) 596 74 80 33 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 www.caraibe-marine.fr [email protected] Tel: + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 053 + (596) 596 650 Tel: Zac artimer - Le Marin, Martinique FWI

MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 • FILLERSSTAINLESSFASTENERSADHESIVES • SPRAYPAINTSROLLERSBRUSHESTOOLS • CLEANING SUPPLIES • GOLDEN HINDCHANDLERIESLTD. BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTD WICKHAMS CAY II-NEXTTO THEMOORINGS TEL: 12844947749FAX: 12844948031 Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat, Primer, Epoxy,TopCoat, “IF WEDONOTHAVE IT, St. Vincent & the Grenadines for St. Vincent&theGrenadinesfor Email: [email protected] Tel: 7844583319•Fax:3000 Antifouling, Thinners Caribbean CompassMarketPlace EMAIL: [email protected] WE WILL GETIT” PORT ELIZABETH,BEQUIA appointed agents in appointed agentsin

BOAT’S NEEDS! YOUR FOR ALL ONE STOP SHOP • NAILS • HOSE CLAMPS • CLAMPS HOSE • NAILS • [email protected] or contactyourlocalisland agent MARKET PLACEAD YOUR THIS COULDBE Book itnow:

Spotless Stainless Spotless Stainless “Haunting aswesailintocoldfronts, Makes StainlessSteelSparkle. Makes StainlessSteelSparkle. saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou No Rubbing.Scrubbing.Polishing. Brush ON Rinse OFF Rinse ON Brush NoRubbing.Scrubbing.Polishing. Brush ON Rinse OFF Rinse ON Brush storms, andheartsofdarkness...” Spotless Spotless Available atCaribbeanChandleriesor Available atCaribbeanChandleriesor ☛ Now availableasanebook on Amazon.com (US$9.95) on Amazon.com – Sailingmagazine

REMEMBER eoeafter before Stainless.com Stainless.com Compass ! MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 Parts - Repairs - Service FAX: (473) 444 2899 Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] . A portion TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL McIntyre Bros. Ltd. For more information on the event visit www. For more information 2013 Budget Marine Curaçao Challenge it’s the ninth Annual “This is not just any race — that one of the Budget Marine announces an outstanding anchor The second start showcases For more information contact TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA can easily launch their kites and enjoy the perfect their kites and enjoy the can easily launch kite surf- also the home to two mobile conditions. It is the Cactus Blue mobile restaurant. ing schools and lessons of the year, the schools offer During the rest to keep sail- well as sales of equipment and rentals as safety boats happy. There are several ors of any level sailing who have not mastered upwind to give those difficulties a ride back. or have equipment can be Additional information bonairekiteweek.com. and found at www.infobonaire.com www.tourismbonaire.com. Budget Marine Challenge.” races will take place Caribbean’s most challenging a challenge for sailors, but on June 16th. Every race is is one of the few races the Budget Marine Challenge by uncommon starting pro- that distinguish themselves the first race starts down- cedures. Unlike usual races, followed by an upwind wind on the Spanish Waters, and Fuik Bay, and a first fin- leg between Caracas Bay challenge to avoid ish in Fuik. This brings an extra crossing the starting line early. situation in which all sail- start, traditionally a peculiar their creativity. Fuik Bay is ors get the chance to show 65 feet) deep, so drag- some 15 to 20 metres (50 to ging anchors will be an additional challenge. At four minutes before the start, all crew has to go below deck. They are allowed to show their faces again only after the starting signal. Then they can hoist the sails, lift the anchor and sail away as fast as they can. Previous years, heavy winds created yet more chal- lenge. The interest and participation have increased over the years and have made this one of Curaçao’s most remarkable sailing events. [email protected]. s e c i f Caribbean Compass f O

a is the author’s first book. An abbrevi- is now available at Amazon.com. d d

, n a d a n

a e k o r c The introduction is a humorous review of tips As a physical therapist and former university Noodling at Sea, or Staying Fit With Water Noodling at Sea, or Staying Fit With Water R G with photos and step-by-step instructions on more than 55 exercises that are with photos and step-by-step instructions on more than designed to improve fitness while sailing and cruising. and suggestions for having a fun and safe exercise experience in the open water or pool environment. Photos of actual cruisers and detailed instructions clarify each exercise. Charts at the end of the book summarize a suggested order of exercise, and a photo chart provides a handy, quick reference of the exercises. professor, and a cruiser with close to 40 years’ sailing experience, the author has created a practical, attractive and easy to understand manual that will help sailing cruisers stay fit and healthy. Aerobics ated version can be found in the September 2012 issue of of the proceeds will be donated to Hands Across the Sea. Aerobics o

, n D

s ’ o e e o c www.xmarine.info www.xmarine.info [email protected] i g g r v 1-473 415 0297 Mark a 1-473 435 0297 office 1-473 435 0297 office r o 1-473 415 0180 Nicolas L e e

t S G

aat Lagoon Road,

l t a St George’s, Grenada SSt George’s, c i n h c e Technical Service Dock and Offices TTechnical Technical Project Yacht Management Yacht Project Technical Design and Composite Fabrication Carbon, Kevlar) Epoxy, (Vinylester, Finishing Services, Gel Coat, Grip Certified) Painting (Awl Systems Engineering, Electrical, Mechanical Installations & Repairs There will also be a spectacular final race, to be be a spectacular final race, There will also location where sailors Kite Beach is a high-energy close to the spectators and photographers. After-race and photographers. close to the spectators also visit- not only the racers but events will entertain other tourists. ing sailors and as many as Classic, which will see called the Bonaire of Kralendijk from Atlantis into the bay 70 kites racing before head- the island of Klein Bonaire and rounding with a to the finish line at Atlantis; ing back upwind will be a race than 40 kilometres, this distance of more amateurs This event will be open to worth watching. and pros alike. Since its maiden voyage in For more information on its cargo secure, the DYT ship leaves for its next destination, a veritable moving marina. 1987, the company has trans- ported more than 12,000 motor and sailing yachts to various destinations around the globe. DYT’s global yacht transport routes for its semi- submersibles include St. Thomas and Martinique in the Caribbean. Dockwise Yacht Transport see ad on page 17. by Willie Haskins is a fun, pictori- Regatta News Regatta News cannot be matched. Marine Insurance My claims settlement record www.street-iolaire.com insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. insurance, but there is no good cheap No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” e-mail: [email protected] I have been connected with the marine insurance Continued from page 7 …Business Briefs Continued from page 12 … Continued from business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. When the yachts are over their assigned positions and touch the wooden cribbing orWhen the yachts are over their assigned positions and touch Now Available: Noodling at Sea E-Book Noodling at Sea, or Staying Fit with Water Aerobics Between June 11th and 16th, Bonaire will be hosting 11th and 16th, Bonaire will Between June rubber mat, divers place temporary supports upright as the ship slowly rises from therubber mat, divers place temporary supports upright as the docking operation. Withwater until the deck is dry and the ship’s crew can begin — ally illustrated manual for learning how to perform water aerobics exercises in open ally illustrated manual for learning how to perform water cruisers, the book is loaded water anchorages or in a pool. Primarily aimed at sailing International Kite Event Coming to Bonaire International Kite Racing Middle American Kite Course the South and ISAF points This event will award 100 Championships. for top-lev- rankings, so it is a “must” toward the world riders an estimated 90 top professional el sailors. With will enjoy a all parts of the world, Bonaire coming from place at the Competition will take unique spectacle. area known as Atlantis south end of the island at the the action right up or “Kite Beach”. This site brings — MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 www.crackajacksailing. Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD com Tel:(784)457-3362 E-mail: vthadley@vincysurf. com Tel:(784)433-3334 E-mail: pukasail51@hotmail. Lying BlueLagoon,St.Vincent. condition. Idealforchartering. 4 en-suitedblcabins.Ingood Newly re-builtPerkins90HP, 50’ BENETEAUM5001989 Tel (758)4528531 E-mail [email protected] 59.000US 198334ftVINDÖ45 2007SO32i79.000US 2001Leopard42245.000US 2009HUNTER45DS229.000US 1978/2000FORMOSA56156.000US 1986OYSTER435135.000£ 1987 IRWIN44MKII95.000US [email protected] Tel: (868)759-7748E-Mail: Lying Trinidad.US$45,000 3 cabins/2heads, Westerbeke generator,A/C, dual helmstations, Chrysler/Mitsubishi diesels, Fully equippedwith2x BAYLINER EXPLORER3870 [email protected] 3474/495-4930 E-mail: efficiency. Tel:(784)454- inboard engines,greatfuel SPECIAL CALYPSO MARINEV-34 DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER uaa aie uaa 11 MP Curaçao Martinique 41 38 Guadeloupe MP MP Martinique14/MP Curaçao Marine 13 MP Clippers Ship SVG 27 2 Trinidad Caribbean Yachts Caribbean PropellersLtd. MP Trinidad SintMaarten 6 Grenada Caribbean MarineElectrical Caraibe Marine St.Maarten SVG 26 15 MP Captain Gourmet SVG Trinidad Camper &Nicholsons MP Business DevelopmentCo. MP Budget Marine Grenada Grenada Boat Paint&Stuff Grenada SVG Bequia Venture 38 20 Bequia Marina MP Antigua Barefoot YachtCharters 31 B &CFuelDock Assurances MaritimesAntilles Martinique Antigua Assurances MaritimesAntilles Martinique 5 C/W Art Fabrik Art &Soul Art &Design Antigua andBarbudaTourism Antigua Anjo Insurance Aero TechLab FORSALE , 2xYanmardiesel gmail.com real estate.E-mail:velerofia@ tor, electronics.Willtradefor w/solar panels,windgenera- pit, cruisingready,complete ENDEAVOUR 40 com/akemi_for_sale and photosatwww.smudge. Tel: (784)528-9163Details E-mail: [email protected] due toillness.US$18,000OBO. known as"Duppy".formerly named "Akemi",formally ready tosail.LyingBequia, thru-hulls, Yanmar30HP, sail! Allnewseacocksand gle personsailing,ajoyto E-mail: [email protected] Yamaha. Tel:(784)533-1996 27’ CUBBYCABIN200HP 1969 COLUMBIA36 gmail.com Tel:(784)493-3128 EC$40,000 windandsealtd@ Vincent andtheGrenadines Fiberglass, registeredinSaint “Annick” FordSaber225V, 27’ PILOT/FISHINGBOAT com Email: windandsealtd@gmail. Grenadines. US$140,000 Saint Vincentandthe ity 50persons.Registeredin Yamaha fourstroke,capac- “Seaquarium” 2x250HP 44’ MOTORCATAMARAN Tel: (784)493-3128 YOUR CLASSIFIED IS ON-LINE! Center cock- . 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to illness.US$550inBequia. LongBoard.aspx Sellingdue www.seaeagle.com/ fantastic board,details: Used onlyacoupleoftimes, INFLATABLE LONGBOARD [email protected] ing onsizeandlocation.E-mail from US$5to$10sq/ftdepend- 0.9 acresto9,000sq.ft.Prices water access,plotsavailable. Court Bay.Excellentviews, GRENADA www.bequialandforsale.com views, largelotsfromUS$5/sq.ft. BEQUIA -MT.PLEASANT Telfor BedeauTel:(473)442-6200 trees; westernsectionwooded. tion cultivatedwithvariousfruit from Soubisebeach.Easternsec- from Grenvillebyroadand1/2mile Soubise, St.Andrews,11/2miles per sq/ft.LocatedatTheVillain ft (3acres,1rood,19poles).US$1 GRENADA www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern and multi-acretracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, [email protected] (613) 931-1868E-mail: 11,340 sq/ft.US$125,000Tel: Quatre andMustique. view ofPetitNevis,Islea property withspectacular La Pompe,oceanfront BEQUIA- BUILDINGLOT E-mail: [email protected] trees. Tel:(784)455-7580 location, beautifulview,fruit bed/2 baths.Veryprivate 1600sq fton1/2acre.2 BEQUIA -BELMONTHouse E-mail: [email protected] Fenced lot.$219,950USD,OBO Bed, 1Bath,8027Sq/ft. Friendship Bay,8yrs.old,2 BEQUIA-HOUSE, w/battery included. Details: w/battery included.Details: owner. Electricturbopump ideal forcruiser/smallboat Used onlyacoupleoftimes, INFLATABLE YACHTTENDER Tel: (784)528-9163 E-mail: [email protected] PROPERTY FORSALE MISC. FORSALE Approx.area150,000sq/ - East side Clarkes -EastsideClarkes ADVERTISERS INDEX

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@caribbeancompass.com accompanying classifieds accompanying classifieds the 10thofmonth Include name, address Include name,address and numbers in count. and numbersincount. Line drawings/photos Line drawings/photos PER WORD aie rnd 45 20 Grenada Venezuela MP 36 MP YES Martinique Trinidad Xanadu Marine Dominica X Marine MP 29 Grenada22/MP WIND Martinique MP Whitchurch Supercenter 39 SVG West PalmHotel Venezuela Venezuelean MarineSupply 16 Grenada Antigua MP Velocity WaterServices 18 Turbulence Sails Townhouse MegaStore MP PuertoRico C/W 26 Tortugal Guatemala Tikal Arts&Crafts SVG 41 37 Technick Grenada St.Maarten MP SuperYacht Shipping St.Thomas Sunsail MarineCenter Sunbay Marina Grenada MP Grenada St. ThomasYachtSales MP St. MaartenSails MP SpotlessStainless USA South AfricanWines Slipway Restaurant E-mail: Pre-paid by Pre-paid by US 50¢ are US$10 are US$10 classifieds MAY 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47

Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago