“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 1 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

17 Top Experiences ...... 4 4 Welcome to ...... 13 17 Need to Know ...... 14 TOP EXPERIENCES If You Like… ...... 16 Month by Month ...... 19 COUNTRYCCOOUNTRY • TheThT originali i l Itineraries ...... 23 • Comprehensive • Adventurous Outdoor Activities ...... 27 Travel with Children ...... 36 Know Curre Geirangerfjord Nor w Regions at a Glance ...... 39 The 20km chug along Geirangerfjord» (p 227 ), a Unesco World Heritage site, must rank as the 1 world’s loveliest ferry journey. Long-abandoned farmsteads still cling to the ’s near-sheer cliՖ s while ice-cold cascades tumble, twist(Nkr) and gush down to emerald-green waters. Take it from and enjoy the calm as you leave this small, heaving port or hop aboard at altogether quieter . Prime your camera, grab a top-deck open-air seat and enjoy what’s literally the only way to travel its secluded reaches.

When to Go Vega # #• Brønnøys NORWEGIAN SEA É # #• Longyearbyen Tromsø RørvikGO mid-Jun–mid-Aug, GO mid-Jun– Dec–Feb Dec–Feb

# É

Travel with #• Stiklestad É Trondheim #• #• Children Hell Norway is ENCOUNTEREENCOUNT PHRASEBOOK travel as a Trondheim Best Regions for Kids Two Weeks # become w GO Jun–Aug • Pocket-sized friendlyThe l Norwegian Coast restauran • Easy-to-use Green parklands in abundance and a child-frien large array of museums, many with an ever, tha Thet coastline between Trondheim and Highlights interactive component, make this one • ing to beacross t the Arctic Circle and following a of Europe’s more child-friendly cities. is especia Central Norway are vast times can Lillehammer’s (sometimes-interactive) equivalen Winter Olympic sites may appeal, as will activities around Røros and safaris that set oՖ in search of elk (moose) and Norw musk ox. Domestic the assum & the be travell Looking for other travel resources?

PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 365 Learn about the big picture, so you NORWAY can make sense of what you see

Norway Today ...... 366 if Norway were History ...... 368 100 people Norwegian Life ...... 380 Norway’s Landscape ..... 385 LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE Wildlife ...... 390 For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, History 85 would be advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas National Parks ...... 395 Norway may have become the epitome of a modern, peaceful cou 8 would be other religions chapters but its history is soaked in blood. How one led to the other is o lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine world history’s great epics. It is a story peopled with picaresque ch 5 would be Chritian denomintions ttle is known ters and always revolving around recurring grand themes. about the Before there were people in this land, Norway’s story began wit 2 would be Islam Environmental Issues .... 398 nomadic, great geological shifts and ice ages that formed one of Europe’s nter-gatherer dramatic landscapes. Onto this terrain, at once forbidding and maj østvet-Økser ple, who were stepped the À rst and most enduring of Norwegian peoples, the for ost likely tall, ners of the modern Sami Á eeing the icy wastes of Siberia. Norway’s Sami ...... 404 ond-haired, But more than any other people, it was the Vikings who would ue-eyed and to dominate Norwegian history. Throughout their À ve centuries a ke a Germanic pinnacle of European power, their conquests extended across mu nguage, the STAY IN TOUCH edecessor of Europe, while at home enlightened and despotic kings, civil wars Arts & Architecture ...... 407 odern Scandi- attles between Norse gods and growing Christian inÁ uence rod an languages. some of the most fascinating sagas of Scandinavian history. The Vi lonelyplanet.com/contact twitter.com/ Norwegian Cuisine ...... 416 AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 lonelyplanet %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ against the Stewardship lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT management of the world’s . %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 newsletter

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PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 42 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

The Far North p313 p351

Nordland p269

Trøndelag p244

The Western Central p198 Norway p121 Bergen & the Southwestern Fjords p153 #_ Oslo Southern p44 Norway NEXT p86 TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE

PAGE SURVIVAL YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE 423 How to get around, get a room, GUIDE stay safe, say hello

amples in and – 24 only opens in winter. Prices Directory A–Z ...... 424 Throughout this guidebook, the order of accommodation listings is by author prefer- ence, and each place to stay is accompanied by one of the following symbols (the price relates to a double room with Transport ...... 435 private bathroom and, unless stated otherwise, includes breakfast): € Nkr1400 per double Directory room

Prices at Norwegian hotels vary widely throughout A-Z the year and prices given Index ...... 459 throughout this book are for the tourist high season from are often heavily booked in mid-June to mid-August; Accommodation summer. in a few places, discounted Many tourist o՗ ces can high-season prices apply Norway oՖ ers a wide range help you À nd accommoda- in July only, while in others of accommodation, from tion, usually for a fee of it can seem as if there are Map Legend ...... 467 camping, hostels and pen- around Nkr50; apart from in as many diՖ erent prices as sions to international-stan- some larger tourist o՗ ces, there are days in the year. dard hotels. You’ll pay a lot this service usually operates The sometime exception more for what you get com- only if you’re physically pres- to this general rule is the pared with other countries, ent in the tourist o՗ ce and southern Norwegian coast, but standards are high. Most not for advance bookings. where beach resorts raise hotels have wi-À access for their prices to cash in on the those with laptops; see p 430 Seasons school-holiday inÁ ux. for more details. The main tourist season runs During the rest of the Reservations from around the middle of year, the assumption seems June to the middle of August. to be that the only people Although it’s rare that you Unusually although this is travelling are those doing so

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Anthony Ham, Stuart Butler, Miles Roddis

Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

OSLO ...... 44 CENTRAL NORWAY . .121 Norheimsund ...... 176 AROUND OSLO ...... 76 EASTERN CENTRAL Øystese ...... 176 Drøbak ...... 76 NORWAY ...... 124 Ulvik ...... 177 Drammen ...... 76 Lillehammer ...... 124 Eidfjord...... 178 Hamar ...... 129 ØSTFOLD ...... 78 Kinsarvik & Lofthus ...... 181 Elverum ...... 131 Fredrikstad ...... 78 Utne ...... 182 Trysil ...... 131 Halden ...... 83 Odda ...... 182 NORTHERN CENTRAL Rosendal ...... 184 ...... 132 HAUGELANDET & NORWAY ...... 86 Røros ...... 132 RYFYLKE ...... 185 Femundsmarka National Haugesund ...... 185 THE COAST ...... 87 Park ...... 137 Tønsberg ...... 87 STAVANGER & Oppdal ...... 137 LYSEFJORD ...... 187 Sandefjord ...... 90 Trollheimen ...... 138 Stavanger ...... 188 Larvik ...... 90 Dombås ...... 139 Lysefjord ...... 195 Damvann ...... 92 Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella Kragerø ...... 92 National Park ...... 140 THE WESTERN Risør ...... 93 Otta ...... 141 FJORDS ...... 198 Lyngør ...... 94 . . .142 SOGNEFJORDEN ...... 199 Arendal ...... 94 Sjoa ...... 143 Flåm ...... 199 Grimstad ...... 96 Ringebu ...... 144 Undredal ...... 203 Lillesand ...... 98 WESTERN CENTRAL Gudvangen & Nærøyfjord 203 Kristiansand ...... 98 NORWAY ...... 144 Aurland ...... 204 Mandal ...... 103 Lom ...... 144 Lærdal ...... 205 Lindesnes ...... 104 Jotunheimen National ...... 206 Flekkefjord ...... 104 Park ...... 147 Balestrand ...... 207 Flekkefjord to Egersund . .105 HARDANGERVIDDA . . . . . 150 Sogndal ...... 208 Egersund ...... 106 Geilo ...... 151 Solvorn & Around ...... 210 Finse ...... 152 THE INTERIOR ...... 107 Urnes ...... 211 Kongsberg ...... 107 BERGEN & THE Skjolden ...... 211 The Telemark Canal ...... 110 SOUTHWESTERN JOSTEDALSBREEN ...... 211 Rjukan ...... 113 FJORDS ...... 153 Fjærland ...... 212 Tuddal ...... 117 BERGEN...... 154 Jostedalen & Seljord ...... 117 Nigardsbreen ...... 214 VOSS ...... 172 Setesdalen ...... 118 Briksdalsbreen ...... 215 Sirdal ...... 120 HARDANGERFJORD . . . . . 176 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Kjenndalsbreen & - & Magerøya . . 332 Bødalsbreen ...... 216 National Park ...... 276 Lakselv & Around ...... 335 NORDFJORD TO THE Arctic Circle Centre ...... 276 Stabbursnes ...... 336 COAST ...... 217 ...... 277 EASTERN . . . .336 Olden ...... 217 ...... 278 Nordkyn Peninsula ...... 336 Loen ...... 217 Ofotbanen Railway & Berlevåg ...... 337 Stryn ...... 218 Rallarveien ...... 282 Båtsfjord ...... 337 Florø ...... 218 KYSTRIKSVEIEN – THE Bru...... 337 Måløy ...... 222 COASTAL ROUTE ...... 283 Vadsø ...... 338 Selje & Selja Island . . . . . 223 Brønnøysund ...... 283 Vega ...... 284 Vardø ...... 340 THE NORTHERN FJORDS 223 Sandnessjøen ...... 285 Kirkenes ...... 341 Åndalsnes ...... 223 Træna & Lovund ...... 285 Grense Jakobselv ...... 345 Valldal & Around ...... 225 Stokkvågen to Storvik . . . 285 Pasvik River Valley ...... 345 Geiranger ...... 227 Bodø ...... 286 INNER FINNMARK ...... 346 Hellesylt ...... 229 ...... 346 Norangsdalen ...... 229 ...... 291 ...... 348 Runde ...... 230 Austvågøy ...... 292 Reisa National Park . . . . . 350 Ålesund ...... 230 Vestvågøy ...... 297 Flakstadøy ...... 299 ...... 236 SVALBARD ...... 351 Moskenesøy ...... 300 Kristiansund ...... 239 Longyearbyen ...... 355 Southern Islands ...... 303 Barentsburg ...... 361 TRØNDELAG ...... 244 VESTERÅLEN ...... 304 Pyramiden ...... 362 Hadseløya ...... 304 TRONDHEIM ...... 245 Ny Ålesund ...... 363 Langøya ...... 305 THE ROUTE NORTH . . . . . 257 Magdalenefjord ...... 364 Andøya ...... 307 Hell ...... 257 Prins Karls Forlandet . . . . 364 Hinnøya ...... 309 Stiklestad...... 257 Krossfjorden ...... 364 Steinkjer & North ...... 258 Danskøya ...... 364 THE FAR NORTH . . . . 313 ...... 259 Moffen Island ...... 364 Rørvik ...... 260 ...... 316 Leka ...... 260 Tromsø ...... 316 ...... 324 ...... 269 Setermoen & Around . . . . 325 ARCTIC HIGHWAY ...... 270 WESTERN FINNMARK . . .325 Mosjøen ...... 270 Alta ...... 326 ...... 273 ...... 329 23

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

# Nærøyfjord Stalheim #•

É #• Flåm

Hardangervidda Voss É #• # Plateau

Hardangerfjord Ulvik

# #•

#• É É Bergen Eidfjord É #•

#_ É É OSLO NORTH SEA

Stavanger #• É #Lysefjord

SWEDEN

10 Days Norway in Microcosm

After a couple of days exploring the many galleries and museums of Oslo, take the sce- nic Oslo–Bergen railway, one of the most spectacular rail journeys on earth. From Oslo, the line climbs gently through forests, plateaus and ski centres to the beautifully desolate Hardangervidda Plateau, home to Norway’s largest herd of wild and numer- ous hiking trails. At Myrdal, take the Flåmsbana railway down to Flåm, from where fjord cruises head up the incomparable Nærøyfjord. Travel via Gudvangen, sleep overnight in Stalheim, and then continue on to Voss, where thrill-seekers love the easily accessible activities on off er. Voss serves as a gateway to the splendid scenery of Hardangerfjord, where Ulvik and Eidfjord stand out among Norway’s most worthwhile fjord-side towns. Away to the south, Stavanger is one of Norway’s most appealing cities and a base for trips to Lysefjord, in- cluding the walk up to the dramatic Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock). A boat journey along the coast takes you to beautiful Bergen, with its stunning timbered houses and cosmopolitan air.

, Jo- jell- Gei- Otta Dovref

#• É , and back down

Røros

Jotunheimvegen #• É Trondheim

, a delightful coastal

OSLO É Lillehammer É

#_

Ringebu #• #÷ É Park #• #• National Rondane

É k #• # Otta n , gateways to the , gateways É Oppdal

Peer É Gynt #• Trondheim Vege Peer Gynt Vegen Peer # #÷ Lom Jotunheimen

n National Par hosted the 1994 Winter Olympics and

e #• l a Dombås Dombås

ers some unparalleled opportunities to d É #÷

s ff # Dovrefjell- É m

National Park o Sunndalsfjella

R and #• #

É Jotunheimvegen has one of Norway’s prettiest stave churches, but stave prettiest has one of Norway’s #÷ Lillehammer , a lovely wooden town with a gorgeous stave church , a lovely wooden town with a gorgeous stave , , then twist your way across to the your way , then twist Oppdal student population and engaging cultural scene. Øvre Årdal Road , which leads through the extraordinarily beautiful , before continuing northeast to Unesco World Heritage– World , before continuing northeast to Unesco Ringebu . Lom , which is a base for musk-ox safaris in summer. From From , which is a base for musk-ox safaris in summer. Oslo Sognefjellet SEA Geirangerfjord National Park with its wonderful trails, soaring peaks and countless hiking Jostedalsbreen NORWEGIAN Øvre Årdal with its sheer rock walls. Returning to the main road south, head to Sognefjellet Road Sognefjellet , one of Norway’s most enchanting villages, with painted timber houses and , one of Norway’s , perhaps the king of all Norwegian fjords. Twist down through the network of down through the network , perhaps the king of all Norwegian fjords. Twist steep valleys. Theuence of two E15 continues deep into the fjord country to fl SEA Rondane National Park Rondane National

Røros NORTH

willing to rent a car for part of the time, it o The dramatic high country of central Norway is simply spectacular and, provided you’re Romsdalen A short from train or bus ride Travel southeast to Sogndal, then northeast along the shores of pretty Lustrafjord andSogndal, then northeast southeast to along the shores of pretty Travel Turning to the south, head past to the Turning Sunndalsfjella National Park National Sunndalsfjella where the E15 branches west to Dombås, consider a side-trip by train or down the E136, which leads through the heartDombås, consider a side-trip by train or down of explore the region’s quiet of the same back roads; serious cyclists could also follow many explore the region’s journey. but spectacular, routes for a slower, near to the precipitous massifs which draws the quiet a car enables you to take Rv27, having of the listed an easy detour north to Røros, it’s old-world charm. From it remains one of central Norway’s most pleasing spots, with a wealth of Olympic sites and a it remains one of central Norway’s lovely setting. Continuing north,

The Heart Norway of Two Weeks Two at the con rangerfjord fjords to Stryn,towns to the dramatic glacial scenery Olden and Fjærland, gateway of the Park National Jostedalsbreen up onto the city with a stunning cathedral, large city tunheimen National Park tunheimen National glaciers. One of the most scenic roads in northern Europe, Sognefjellet Road warrants there, From even as far as Lom,driving its length, and then returning as far as Turtagrø. head up a scenic road to scenic road, and then to another, the wonderfully quiet scenic road, and then to another, to Lillehammer.

24 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 25 cance fi , home to FINLAND , a charm- GULF OF BOTHNIA Å shore detour shore ff cent, taking youcent, fi ne way to travel in a to travel ne way fi ve is far more enjoyable. fi . . Back on the mainland, the SWEDEN Narvik Vega #• Narvik , and don’t miss the o

É , a site of great historical signi ssured with deep inlets, shadowed by fi shing villages that are the lifeblood of

fi É Svartisen Saltfjellet- National Park #

Bodø #÷ É

hugs the coastline. Another candidate for Nor-

#•

É Park Saltfjellet-Svartisen National

Stiklestad # É # É

É Brønnøysund # in on the coast, where a fascinating multimedia display

# ff Vesterålen É Å #f Brønnøysund Islands Lofoten #•

Arctic Circle #

É Rørvik Rørvik Stiklestad , stop o

coastal route É . #• #• eld and accessible glacier tongues. The most beautiful section

fi Vega Kystriksveien É Hell Coastal Route Hell Hurtigruten #• Coastal Ferry and linger for a couple of days in one of Norway’s most agreeable in one of Norway’s and linger for a couple of days #• . Unlike any other landscape in Norway, the Lofoten could easily oc- landscape in Norway, other any . Unlike is wild and beautiful and worth a day or two, including summer whale- is wild and beautiful and worth or two, a day , before you head on to journey’s end at , before you head on to journey’s Arctic Circle Kystriksveien Stø Trondheim shore islands and populated by quiet SEA

Trondheim ff ff has much to recommend it, but its primary (by ferry) appeal is as the gateway to Vesterålen NORWEGIAN Lofoten Islands across the Arctic Circle and following a shoreline The coastline between Trondheim and the Lofoten Islands is magni and the Lofoten Islands The Trondheim coastline between Bodø The Rv17 travels north to picturesque travels The Rv17 Begin in the cupy of your time, although it can be experienced a week much more rapidly for those in All the islands and villages are worth visiting, but on no account miss a hurry. ingly preserved village at the southern tip of Moskenesøy. Like Lofoten Like far fewer but with ingly preserved village at the southern tip of Moskenesøy. visitors, watching o Norway’s second-largest ice Norway’s along this section that and Storvik, Stokkvågen route is between and it’s of the Kystriksveien you’ll cross the Factor in time as well for a detour to the Factor extraordinary way’s most spectacular islands. It can be slow drive, this road passes an estimated 14,000 way’s going with all the ferries and inlet-hugging stretches of road, but it is unquestionably worth but four or it. The entire route could be done in a couple of days, for Norwegians. Then it’s on to for Norwegians. Then it’s island of Heritage–listed World to the fascinating, Unesco cities. Heading north, via cities. Heading is the perfect introduction to coastal life. much shorter time frame. coastal Norway. You’ll need a car to make the most of this route, although travelling aboard although travelling the most of this route, need a car to make You’ll coastal Norway. is another even for just a leg or two, coastal ferry, the Hurtigruten countless o Two Weeks Two The Norwegian Coast is a , Nor- . Return and the is the un- Kirkenes #• # É Valley Pasvik ØSTHAVET Bru Ta n a Svalbard Kirkenes #•

É Karasjok # Nordkyn

Peninsula

É Knivskjelodden É FINLAND RUSSIA Reisa National Park Reisa National Karasjok shing. fi #•

#• É

É É

has much to explore and nearby Alta É É Kautokeino #• #• Nordkapp

) É &Knivskjelodden #÷ Park Reisa SWEDEN

National É Alps # (see inset

To Svalbard É

should also not be missed, and the same can be

É Tromsø #•

É É Alta t. erent reasons: as far northin Norway as you can go fi for a day, but it’s far better to stay overnight to truly to stay far better but it’s for a day, Senja ff # Nordkyn Peninsula Nordkyn lled with fascinating sites of Sami patrimony and op- lled with fascinating sites of Sami patrimony fi Senja , close to the Russian border, have loads of summer and winter have border, , close to the Russian ight deep into polar regions where the Svalbard archipelago is fl Vesterålen , although for di is another long-standing centre of Sami culture, and its museum is an Lofoten SEA Pasvik Valley Pasvik , which are rugged and craggy glaciers and supremely beautiful with many NORWEGIAN #• SEA , arguably Norway’s liveliest medium-sized town, is a university town par ex- medium-sized town, is a university liveliest , arguably Norway’s is one of the best places in the world to go salmon is one of the best places in the world to go salmon Svalbard Nordkapp elds. fi

Kautokeino NORWEGIAN

less world seemingly without end, a frozen wilderness that inspires the awe reserved that inspires the awe less world seemingly without end, a frozen wilderness for The mystique of the extreme north has drawn explorers for centuries. Here is a horizon- The of the extreme explorers north for centuries. Here mystique has drawn Inset And no exploration of the Arctic North would be complete without Tromsø Heading east, the rock carvings of Heading Next, head to Inner Finnmark, the heartland of the Sami people. head to Inner Next, said for value, if somewhat overwhelmed is high on novelty out to sea, Nordkapp without setting by out to neighbouring the crowds and instead hike visitors. Forsake the east, true north. Further way’s but only for the seriously possibility, a and catch to Tromsø last great wildernesses. This old whaling centre supports of a rich array one of Europe’s Arctic wildlife, including reindeer and polar bears, not to mention epic glaciers, icebergs and ice cellence. Its Polar Museum captures the spirit of Arctic captures the spirit exploration; its Arctic Museum Cathedral cellence. Its Polar wonderfully the landscapes of the north evokes a wealth while the surrounding peaks host is also an ideal base for excursions inland to the of summer and winter activities. Tromsø Alps Lyngen could also visit summits. You the great empty places of our earth.the great empty embrace the quiet of northern Norwegian nights.

The Arctic North Three Weeks neighbouring activities, including the unusual king crab safaris. Tana Bru Tana disputed capital of Sami Norway, disputed capital of Sami Norway, portunities for winter dog-sledding and cross-country skiing, and summer hiking. Further west, ideal place to provide cultural in the context to your visit. Hiking

26 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Anthony Ham Coordinating Author, Central Norway, Bergen & the Southwestern Fjords, Sval- bard Anthony fell in love with Norway the fi rst time he laid eyes on it and there aren’t many places in Norway he hasn’t been, from Lindesnes in the south to the remote fjords of Svalbard in the far north. His true passion is the Arctic North, whether dog-sledding and spending time with the Sami around Karasjok or, for this edition of the guide, drawing near to glaciers and scouring the horizon for polar bears in the glorious wilderness of Svalbard. When he’s not travelling for Lonely Planet to the Arctic (or, his other great love, the Sahara), he lives in Madrid and writes and photographs for magazines and newspapers around the world. Read more about Anthony at: lonelyplanet.com/members/anthonyham Stuart Butler Oslo, Southern Norway Hailing from southwest England, Stuart grew up sur- rounded by both the sea and stories of travel and adventure. By his late teens he had managed to combine the two into a life spent travelling to the remoter coastlines of the globe in search of unknown surf spots. It was this that fi rst led him, in a frozen November, to the far north of Norway where he surfed almost within the shadow of Nordkapp. Fortunately, the very short days meant he didn’t have to spend long in the water. He now lives in the much warmer southwest of France, but has returned to hike in the beautiful of Norway a number of times.

Miles Roddis The Western Fjords, Trondelag, Nordland, the Far North A distant camping holi- day in Finland, an even more distant Swedish girlfriend, and a need to refresh his northern European roots: such are the three pulls that draw Miles back to Scan- dinavia. He heads for the sheer, unrivalled majesty of Norway’s central fjords and journeys beyond the Arctic Circle, exploring off shore islands and relishing the space and emptiness of the far north. Based for more than 20 years in Valencia, Spain, he and his wife, Ingrid, have explored the lands north of for the last three edi- tions of this guidebook.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 5th edition – May 2011 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 330 7 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 2011 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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