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PonzaText by Sabrina Belloni Island— The Isle of the Sorceress Photos by Franco Banfi 20 X-RAY MAG : 61 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Ponza

View of Ponza’s harbour. PREVIOUS PAGE: Diver with red gorgonia at Le Formiche

The power of the island of Ponza ranean shrubs. All are characterized by a lies in its ability to preserve an in- succession of small coves, bays and inlets that give them a special charm. tangible aura of magic, which na- The charm of the island of Ponza, one of ture has given it, in the marriage the most beautiful in Mediterranean Sea, of heaven and earth, water and remains unchanged, year after year; at fire, in the racing of land and sea sunset, the sun colours the sky red and the rocks pink—a thin strip of rose on the hori- after each other, relentlessly. zon, a line dividing the turquoise of the sea from that of the sky. The archipelago of the is When getting to Ponza from a city, it al- an inexhaustible source of surprises, with ways seems a bit like a step back in time. its extraordinary landscapes, cliffs, caves A short ride on the sea and everything and laces of rocks. The island’s coasts are changes—the sounds, the smells, the at- very jagged, formed mostly by high banks mosphere. Whenever one discovers Ponza of volcanic rock, tuffaceous and vulcanite from afar, one sees the same magic; its structures of wonderful colours. The only slim profile seems to be the gateway to an exception is , which is formed by archipelago that doesn’t exist. A crest of limestone and dolomite, and looks like a tuffaceous rocks that rises vertically from gem. It is so green, covered with Mediter- the crystal clear water, and climbs up, Red and yellow gorgonian sea fans on wall of reef off Ponza Island Seahorse in seagrass

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ISLE OF CIRCE THE SORCERESS View overlooking the rugged and varied landscape and coastline of Ponza Island Suspected to be the mythical island of in Homer’s , Ponza running sinuous upon the sea, form- that climb to elevated places, along Island is thought to house the cave of ing bays and inlets. It doesn’t change the lines of the hills, where the eye Circe, the sorceress who bewitched while climbing through the narrow sweeps over a breathtaking horizon. and seduced , living with him for over a year, and turning his streets of the countryside, or on the And breath taking, too, because of men into animals. Known today as heights of the island, towards the vil- the effort to climb up the steep stairs, Grotta della Maga Circe, the cave is lage of Le Forna, where the houses the muscles of the legs groaning, the located on the west side of the island, seem to be balanced on the sharp breath becoming short. But it’s all between Chaia di Luna beach and ridge overlooking the two sides. worth it, because below, one can see Capo Bianco. Apparently, there are Ponza should be experienced in au- a panorama of rocks sculpted by wind archaeologists looking for evidence of tumn, when the time of the pink sunset and sea, the wide expanse of the Tyr- Homer’s Odyssey on Ponza today. ■ comes earlier and lasts longer, or in rhenian Sea criss-crossed by white trails SOURCE: WIKIPEDIA spring, when the island is covered by of small boats of a few tourists and a yellow blooms. September is a wonder- few fishing boats. Gusts of wind carry to see one of Ponza’s famous sunsets, ful month: the summer tourist chaos delicate scents of Mediterranean flow- when the calm sea becomes golden gives way to the tranquillity of the is- ers and play on the waves. When the and the sun sets over the horizon. land; the sea is crystal clear; the water winds turn violent, they rush through turns blue or emerald green, depend- the lanes and stairways, sculpting the Dive operation ing on the time of day and the depth rocks as if they were smoothed by the Similar to the harbour of nearby Vento- of seabed; the creeks are almost de- carving and expertise of an artist. tene Island, the main harbor of Ponza serted; and the rocks appear to have A walk to the promontory of Mount is a blaze of joyful colours and history sunnier and warmer colours. Guard takes us to the homonymous as well as the hub of life on the island. In autumn, the beauty of Ponza per- lighthouse on the southern side of the Here at the harbor, fellow divers and vades the streets and the staircases island. It is one of the best sites to go I are awaited by Andrea Donati and Entry to Ancient Roman murenario Faro della Guardia, lighthouse of Mount Guard; Church of Ponza (top)

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Cave with encrustating red sponge; Ponza Harbor; Dive boat Neptune

the team of Ponza Diving Center: a spacious, comfortable, furnished Daniela, Maria Paola and seasonal sundeck. Normally, it is moored in workers—a close-knit group of pro- front of the door of the diving center, fessionals devoted to and passion- from whence guest divers discover ate about diving—who have made the most beautiful dive sites of the customer satisfaction a modus oper- island, with different characteristics that helps divers survive underwater archipelago is the extreme clarity, andi, and safety and environmental and depths. on a rebreather, CCR’s are much saf- with backdrops that offer spectacu- protection a calling card, leaving In recent years, Andrea Donati— er than open circuit. And he aims to lar views and a set of colours and nothing to chance. Last but not least, the director and owner of Ponza Div- encourage and help divers to try this contrasts that are really unique. they offer delicious dishes from the ing Center—has started specializing different experience as well as sup- While the natural world of the is- kitchen of the dive boat Neptune in rebreather and technical diving. port technical divers who like to play land has lost most of its native spe- during full-day dive trips. Even in diving, as in all things, there is safer, longer and deeper. cies, replaced by flora and fauna The 16m-long Neptune is the flag- a trend, which has led to more and introduced by the inhabitants, under ship of the diving center—a fishing more divers going down into the wa- Diving the surface of the water, nature has vessel that has been completely ren- ter on CCR. Andrea firmly believes The unifying feature of all the waters remained healthy, with an extraordi- ovated and adapted for diving, with that beyond the high performance surrounding the islands of the Ponza’s nary richness of life that makes these Tanks and gear inside the dive center

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Mediterranean fairy basslet at La Botte (left); Octopus on reef (above)

saic of environments that support the Dive sites establishment of diverse benthic life. Le Formiche. One of the most popular In the shadows, the rockslides are cov- sites is definitely Le Formiche, a group ered by bright orange-coloured colo- of rocky outcrops that emerges in the nies of Astroides calycularis, one of the southeastern side of the island, in front few Mediterranean representatives of of the stacks of Calzone Muto. Le For- the Madrepore stony coral genus. miche spreads out over a vast area of At the base of the walls, small tun- seabed and therefore offers different nels and caves open up. Here, the paths, allowing for multiple dives. Here, darkness favours the establishment of divers can swim among giant col- typical biotic communities, with scio- lapsed boulders that have holes where philous characteristics that are usually fish settle; or among lush meadows seen in much deeper areas. Among of seagrass, miniature forests where waters one of the most beautiful and the cascade of boulders and rocks full dozens of unusual and curious crea- important marine areas of the Mediter- of holes and crevices, it is common to tures rest, especially visible during night ranean Sea. encounter octopuses and moray eels, dives; or, if one prefers, the steep walls The bustling coastal geography blennies and damselfish, white bream that descend to the sandy bottom at of the landscape, made up​​ of cliffs, and sea bream. There are huge and a depth of about 50m. coves, craggy headlands, cliffs, islets healthy fields ofPosidonia oceanica These walls, especially in deep and and rocks, slopes underwater in a mo- seagrass. shadowy areas of the northeastern Cleaner shrimp and moray eel (above); Small rockfish inside a shell (top)

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Hypselodoris fontandraui nudibranchs (left) Tunicates on yellow seafan at Le Formiche (above); Yellow cluster anemone at La Botte (below)

cinema of dreams covered by Parazoanthus dive, recommended only for expe- axinellae, or yellow cluster rienced divers. anemone. The arch is on the Here, divers dive into absolute threshold of a wide canyon blue waters and follow the anchor that narrows gradually. Di- chain down to the top of the bank, vers swim in single file, being at a depth of 34m. The long de- careful not to damage the scent offers one a feeling of total walls, and arrive in a beautiful aloofness from the known world round cave. On the return, halfway into the canyon, divers come to a tunnel con- side, are exposed to the currents nected to the rocky plateau from of the east and colonized by red which they started the dive, and gorgonian sea fans and dense find themselves under the dive colonies of yellow gorgonians (Eu- boat, Neptune. nicella cavolinii). They are home to an exceptionally rich ecosystem, Secca of Punta Papa. On the colonized by crinoids anchored on western side, beyond the Fara- gorgonians, as well as sea slugs, glioni of Lucia Rosa and the www.seacam.com forkbeards and groupers. cape of Capo Bosco, there is a Ascending to shallower depths, fascinating spot—the Secca of divers pass through a natural arch Punta Papa. It is a challenging

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THIS PAGE: Scenes from the wreck of the LST 349

and prepares you to enjoy the marine life that lurks beneath. A cloud of frantic damselfish greeted our group. We passed over them and stopped at our ascent point. Now we needed to reach the depth limit as soon as possible, down along a wall that ended at a depth of 56m on a sandy bottom. The wall was colonized by large red and yellow sea fans, oriented in the direction of the current, where the long antennae of lobsters could be seen peeping in and out. Among the crevices, we saw some moray eels and a pair of octopuses. Unfortunately, at these depths, the min- utes of decompression stops builds up fast, and our bottom time was penalized. For us it was time to go back, a journey that gave us some opportunities for long views into the blue in search of some pelagic fishes that often frequent the bank. This is probably one of the reasons why Andrea, a TDI Instructor, is now specializing in technical diving with Inspiration and JJ rebreathers. Sometimes he whizzed by us with an underwater scooter, a comforta- everyone. It is the wreck of Punta Papa, ble Zeuxo, with which we admired his twirls the LST 349 (Landing Ship Tank)—a flat- and excellent agility. bottomed boat used for the transportation of the troops and trucks of the Allied forces Punta Papa wreck. Not far from the Secca during World War II. of Punta Papa, there is a dive suitable for She was launched on 7 February 1943 Wreck of the LST 349, a British Landing Ship Tank sunk in 1944

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Cuttlefish (left); Invertebrate (above); Diver with scooter at rock with yellow cluster anemone and bryzoans, La Botte (above)

subsequent explosion of her boilers a night dive. It is only a few minutes pletely colonized by beautiful or- caused the ship to brake in two. from the port, behind the Grotte di ange Astroides calycularis coral. A The bow lies in a perfect position Pilato. curious cuttlefish, with the charac- for navigation to a depth of 26m. Its At dusk, we moored the Nep- teristic w-shaped eyes, watched dark shape, which stands out on the tune behind the stacks of the Punta us trying to go unnoticed, making white sand, offers a truly evocative della Madonna cape and dived its mantle quiver with the rhythm of scene. On the main deck, winches to a depth of only seven meters— the surf, suspended above a prai- and machine guns are still present, a dive which gently sloped down rie of Mediterranean seagrass. We while below deck divers can ex- towards the sea. Along the wall we climbed back into the boat that plore the holds that now provide saw small groupers, very colourful was now dark, but the lights of the shelter to some conger eel, small sponges and tubeworms. On the harbour welcomed us as soon as moray eels, scorpion fish and other sandy bottom, millet butterflyfish we turned the corner around the marine life. The surrounding sandy sifted the sand in search of prey. Cape and the Red Rock. bottom is littered with wreckage. At about 18m, we encountered Unfortunately there is not much left some rocks around which a group Topside excursions and assigned to military opera- of the stern. It lies not far away, at a of stiped white bream swam. The There are many topside adven- tions in the Mediterranean. The depth of 20m. light of day gave way to the shad- tures to enjoy on Ponza Island. vessel sank a year later, on 26 ows of the night and the sessile Bring comfortable and light casual February1944 at Cala dell’Acqua Punta Madonna. Another easy fauna, illuminated by our torches, clothing, a sweater for cooler eve- because of a storm that caused dive, suitable for all, is Punta Ma- fascinated us with its bright colours. nings, comfortable walking shoes the ship to break on the rocks. A donna, which is a fascinating site for The vault of an arch was com- and a map if you want to hike and TOP TO BOTTOM: Nudibranch, seaslug and tubeworms

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Inside Ancient Roman murenario (left); Piana Bianca rock formation at Ponza Harbour (above)

ty of tourists. Further on, visitors can see Afterthoughts The boat tour continues Cala Felce, Cala Caparra, Ponza Island has some of the to Punta Santa Maria, which Capo Rame, Punta Beppe most beautiful and wild dive welcomes visitors with its Antonio, Cala Cecata, Cala sites of the Tyrrenian Sea. many coloured houses that Cavone, Punta di Papa and There is an ease of access give the island its unique Cala dell’Acqua, where ships to the diving; with just a few character. The tour continues procure the island’s water metres from the diving centre past a rugged coastline and supplies. to the dive boat, trips are run arrives in the Baia del Fron- Turning around Punta Cor- by a professional dive team tone. te, visitors see a wonderful and a functional dive center. After passing the famous show: the Cala Feola, one of And the diving is suitable for rock known as “La Foca” in the most fascinating corners rebreather and technical the bay of Punta Bianca, the of the island. divers, with relatively cheap tour boat will reach the Cala You have to explore the dive packages. Honestly, I del Core, which has a wide beach of Lucia Rosa, Punta didn’t find any minuses to pebble beach. Here, visi- Capo Bianco, with its caves, the place except perhaps tors arrive at the Scoglio del and Chiaia di Luna, a wide that while English is spoken, explore the island. Parroco and the unsettling sandy beach surrounded by German is not. However, this The tour around the island Cala dell’Inferno, named a wall of clear rocks. is Italy afterall, and in town, by boat requires a few hours. for the famous remains of a The tour of the island ends there are superb restaurants, The boat tour passes by the wrecked ship. with the Punta del Fieno, pizzerias, pubs and wineries two beaches of St. Anthony After Punta Nera and Punta della Guardia, the inlet serving excellent fare at de- and Giancos outside Porto. Faraglione of Antonio An- of Bagno Vecchio, the Fara- cent prices. ■ They are very easy to reach iello, the tour boat reaches glioni del Calzone Muto and and because of this reason, Cala Spaccapolpi which Punta della Madonna. unfortunately, there are plen- lies next to a natural arch. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CENTER: Sea urchin; Cnidarian on seagrass; Stingray resting on sandy seafloor; Diver with sidemount investigates sea fans on reef

28 X-RAY MAG : 61 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Ponza Harbour at night (right); Faraglioni della Madonna at Parata Beach; (below) travel Ponza

Parmesan cheese wheel and sausage (far left); Red chili peppers in NASA RIGHT: Global shop window (lower left) and fruit and vegetable stand in Ponza (below) map with location of Ponza Island continues to and Nettuno, continue on the road Diving and lodging Switzerland. His work has been BELOW: Location Harbour. following the signs for Nettun- The center rents out Mares published in Animan, Focus, of Ponza Island on map of Italy By train, you can get to Ponza ense Anzio. equipment, Santi drysuits, JJ GEO, National Geographic Italy Island from the railway stations By boat, the season to reach rebreathers, and Teseo and and Terre Sauvage. He has won SWITZ. AUS. HUNGARY of Formia and Anzio. Reaching the island of Ponza on a ferry Zeuxo underwater scooters. awards for his images from the the station you will walk (5 min- are mainly in the summer. Write an email to the diving Travel Photographer of the Year SLO. Milan Verona CROATIA utes), following the signs to the Check with the ferry service for centre to get advice on travel, 2011 competition, Nature’s Venice Turin harbour. times of departure. accommodations, restaurants, Best Photography Ocean View FR. Bologna Ravenna BOS. SER. By car, you must get to the etc. Apartments are also avail- Photo Contest 2011 and the Genoa SAN MARINO & HER. harbour of Anzio. From Rome, From Anzio and Formia: able to rent, and the dive cen- 2010 International Photography Livorno Florence you can take the highway, then Hydrofoils Vetor tre can help you find what you Awards. Visit: www.banfi.ch MONT. Corsica Adriatic the mainroad Pontina towards www.vetor.it are looking for. As for tele- (FR.) PETER SYMES ROME Sea Latina, exit at junction Anzio- Motorboat Laziomar communications, hand VATICAN www.laziomar.it phones with national oper- CITY Bari ALB. Getting there By plane, you can fly to Rome ators work properly. Visit Sassari Salerno Fiumicino or Naples Capodich- From : Ponzadiving.it or email: Sardinia Taranto ino airports. From Rome Fiumi- Motorboat Snap [email protected] ■ Càgliari Ionian cino Airport, take a taxi or train Navigation Sea Messina to Rome Termini train station, www.snapnavigazione.it Franco Banfi is a widely Mediterranean Palermo continued to Anzio or Formia published, award-winning Sea Sicily Catania Harbour. From Naples Capodi- From Naples: underwater and wildlife Augusta chino Airport, take the train to SNAV hydrofoils photographer and au- ALG. TUN. Napoli Centrale station which www.snav.it thor based in southern MALTA

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