E4 Wednesday, February 22, 2017 ••• richmond Times-dispaTch

This versatile condiment can be a dip, a spread, a topping for grain bowls and a sauce for grilled chicken and fish. Simple yogurt sauce can top it all Lemon, Garlic and Herb Yogurt BY EMILY CODIK I serve a thicker version, Makes 8 servings (about 2 cups total). The Washington post mixed with garlic, dill and walnuts, to accompany roast 1¾ cups plain nonfat Greek-style The best way I’ve found to chicken or fish. That same sauce yogurt, preferably Fage brand improve upon dinner has noth- can add a cool touch to contrast 1 tablespoon finely chopped dill ing to do with butter. It doesn’t beautifully with charred lamb PLUS more for garnish involve a generous glug of or steak. (Sprinkle on Aleppo 1 garlic clove, minced cream, or even a few slabs of pepper or sumac for bonus Juice of ½ lemon bacon. The secret recipe that points.) And the stripped-down 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil has transformed so many of my recipe is a must in my favorite PLUS more for drizzling meals from dull to exciting is so way to serve vegetables, which ¼ teaspoon salt unassuming that you probably I learned from John Gregory- ¼ cup finely chopped walnuts, for have it stashed in your refrigera- Smith’s terrific cookbook “Turk- garnish tor right now. ish Delights.” scoop the yogurt into a mix- It’s yogurt. But it’s not the I roast seasonal vegetables ing bowl. add 1 tablespoon dill, the kind of yogurt you have for — acorn squash, cauliflower or garlic, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon oil breakfast, topped with honey even tomatoes — then arrange and the salt, stirring until thoroughly and fruit. I mean savory yogurt them on a platter dolloped with incorporated. Transfer to a serving dish; garnish sauce, a no-frills combination (you guessed it) yogurt sauce. with the walnuts, more dill and a of plain Greek yogurt (nonfat The finishing touch? Chopped drizzle of oil. Fage brand is my favorite) with GORAN KOSANOVIC/THE WASHINGTON POST nuts, a hefty amount of herbs Nutrients per ¼-cup serv- salt, lemon juice and a generous A dollop of Lemon, Garlic and Herb Yogurt can elevate meats or veggies. and, if I’m feeling ambitious, ing: 45 calories, 5 grams protein, 2 pour of extra-virgin olive oil. I pomegranate seeds or crumbled grams carbohydrate, 2 grams fat, serve it on just about everything. when I get home late and all I’ve yogurt into a pasta sauce, tossed feta. no saturated fat, no cholesterol, 95 This surprisingly simple got in my pantry are beans and simply with fettuccine and pars- That’s something I’d serve at milligrams sodium, no dietary fiber, 2 sauce elevates the plainest of grains. I can’t count the number ley. And it’s the only reason my a dinner party. But it’s also per- grams sugar. meals into something crave- of times I’ve made dinner from daily grain bowls haven’t de- fect for when the only person I worthy and healthful. It rescues basmati rice, a can of chickpeas graded into an endless parade want to treat is myself. me in the middle of the week, and some yogurt. I’ve turned of sad desk lunches.

, for specific tasks where a chef’s knife might be too large or From Page E1 cumbersome. Most knives today are made Home cooks, on the other from materials such as stainless hand, will rip a steak to shreds steel, carbon or a blend of the and completely annihilate a to- two called high carbon. Each has mato because, well, all we’ve got its pros and cons (high carbon is is that old serrated considered the “sweet spot” be- we pulled from that equally old cause it has the best properties wooden block on the counter, of stainless steel and carbon,) the ones with that have but it’s worth considering all long since dulled and likely have of them before buying, Gravely never seen a sharpener. With said. Knives are also made from our sub-par , we don’t ceramic, but those are often very cut food as much as we sim- expensive, very fragile and not ply tear it apart, leaving rivers easy to maintain at home. of juices from mashed fruit and Maintenance is a big consid- vegetables and uneven slices of eration, Gravely said. Caring torn bread in our wakes. for knives means washing them In our defense, some of us properly (probably not in the don’t know what we don’t know. dishwasher) and maintaining Fortunately, there are folks who Knifehandlingtechniques edges and blades regularly. Con- sumers should buy knives that are willing to teach us. Grip the knifeproperly. place your thumb and side of your index finger on either side of the , at the heel, then they can sharpen themselves Martin Gravely is the senior curl the rest of your fingers around the handle. do not rest your index finger along the top of the knife. program manager for the Uni- with a stone, the most popular versity of Richmond’s Center Always cut away from your body, in a forward “oval” motion, keeping the tip of the knife on the cutting surface as way to sharpen knives, or with for Culinary Arts. Earlier this you use it. also, be aware of your other hand, which many people use to guide the knife. Keep those fingers tucked electric or manual sharpeners. month, he held a knife-skills under — keep your thumb behind them — and use your knuckles instead to guide the knife as you cut. Sharpening only takes 5 or 10 class that went over the basics, minutes once or twice a year, he everything from a knife’s char- said, but can make your knives acteristics and its proper han- often asked for recommenda- care of them,” Gravely said. usually, a lot of knives. However, last for years. dling to honing and sharpening tions about specific brands. For- “When you’re holding the knife most home cooks don’t need “So much of cooking and and, of course, slicing and dic- get brands — find a knife that properly and you have the mo- and won’t use all of the knives in kitchen work is about unifor- ing without chopping off a digit fits comfortably in your hand, tion down, it should become ef- a large set. mity and knife work is cer- or two. is easy to maintain and won’t fortless, (where) you don’t even “Five (knives) will ... get you tainly a good example of that,” Ultimately, Gravely said, break your budget. If the $20 really feel the food under your through just about anything he said, adding that evenly cut knives are tools. They should knife you bought at a local store blade.” you need to do in the kitchen,” pieces not only look better, but perform efficiently and make fills the bill, don’t spend hun- “If your knife delivers that he said, starting with a good it means everything cooks in the your time in the kitchen both dreds on something else just be- for you, then don’t spend any chef’s knife (also called a French same time too. “With a little bit productive and, well, fun. That cause of name recognition. more” for another knife, he knife,) which typically takes of skill and practice you can get means finding knives that work “There are plenty of knives added. care of 95 percent of the work nice uniform pieces that really for you, rather than against you. out there in the low, middle and When shopping for knives, in commercial kitchens. From make a difference in the final And that’s where it all comes high (price) ranges that are all here’s a tip: Gravely said sets there, he recommends having a product.” down to personal preference, going to perform well for you may seem like a good idea be- boning knife, fillet/slicer knife, [email protected] Gravely said, adding that he’s and last a long time if you take cause they offer variety and, a serrated knife and a paring (804) 649-6945

Bavarian Kohlrabi Soup Five essentialknivesforanykitchen bones from a cut of meat, such as a ham Makes about 1 gallon, or 12 to 16 servings. or roast beef. While there are many knives out there, here granton edges, or indentations meant to Filet knives have narrow blades that are are five basic varieties that can be found in keep food from sticking to the knife when 3 ounces butter cabbage used for filleting fish. blades vary in size most kitchens. cutting.) ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup dry white wine and can be somewhat flexible, to allow for 1 tablespoon canola oil 3½ quarts chicken or a chef’s knife is an all-purpose knife used Serrated knives are sharp with blades clean cutting along the bones and the skin 1 large onion, diced vegetable stock for most tasks in the kitchen, from chop- like a saw and come in a variety of lengths. when separating from the flesh. 1 red bell pepper, diced Juice of ½ lemon, or to ping and mincing to dicing and slicing. They Longer knives are ideal for cutting through Paring knives are the smallest of the 3 carrots, diced taste come in a variety of sizes, typically 6 to 12 foods with tough exteriors, such as loaves of bunch, with blades that are usually about 3 celery ribs, diced 1 tablespoon paprika inches, so choose the one that best suits bread or sausages. smaller serrated knives 3 or 4 inches long that taper to a point. 2 to 3 cups diced Salt AND pepper you. These are sometimes called French can be used for fruits and vegetables. They’re best for tasks such as peeling fruits kohlrabi Sour cream, horserad- knives. ( knives are Japanese chef’s Boning knives have blades with varying and vegetables or removing eyes from 1 cup fresh green beans, ish and additional knives that tend to have shorter blades widths (some are curved) for removing potatoes. cut in 1-inch pieces paprika, as desired, for than Western styles. many often have 1 cup thinly sliced green topping

in a small saucepan over low heat, melt butter and add flour, a little at a time, until a paste forms that is thick What’s in your knife? Knifebasics enough that it begins to “clean” the bottom of the pan Knives are either forged or stamped. Forged knives are those much about knives comes down to personal preference, from the and resembles thick, wet sand. cook about 5 minutes, that are typically handmade or hand-hammered from one size and functionality to the cost. but there are universal tips for stirring regularly to form a smooth blond roux. Turn of piece of metal. in general, they require more craftsmanship choosing, using and caring for knives that apply to all of them, no heat and reserve. than stamped knives, which are stamped out of a large sheet matter the brand or specific characteristics. in a 2-gallon pot, heat canola oil until it begins to of metal. For that reason, forged knives are typically more When purchasing, hold the knives if possible and practice cutting smoke. add onion, bell pepper, carrot, celery, kohlrabi, expensive, heavier and more well-balanced than stamped green beans and cabbage and cook until they are cara- with them to get a feel for the handles, blade lengths and weights. knives. however, some people prefer stamped knives’ weight melized on their edges, about 3 to 4 minutes. only buy knives that feel comfortable in your hand. Knives that are and feel over forged knives. add the wine and allow it to mostly evaporate while too heavy or bulky are not only uncomfortable, but they could lead scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. choosing a forged or stamped knife comes down to personal to injuries if not handled properly. and remember, cost isn’t neces- add the stock and the reserved roux, stirring well to com- preference. sarily an indicator of quality. pletely dissolve the roux. stirring often as you go, bring additionally, most knives are made from stainless steel, Sets may include more knives than you need. Think about how the soup to a boil for 10 seconds to thicken and then re- carbon, a blend of the two called high carbon, or ceramic, often you’re cooking, and start by selecting five knives (one of each turn to low heat. Finish with the lemon juice, paprika, salt and pepper to though the latter tends to be the least popular option for — chef’s, serrated, boning, fillet and paring) that are reasonably taste. home cooks and professionals alike. here’s a glimpse at the good quality, within your price range, and easy to maintain at home. serve garnished with sour cream, horseradish and pa- strengths and weaknesses of each. you can always add more later. prika, as desired. STAINLESS STEEL Keep your eyes on the knife at all times. — Martin Gravely Pro: doesn’t react to acidic foods such as tomatoes or citrus Always use cutting boards. use large boards that provide enough fruits, which means the knife will not rust or become discol- surface area to work and push foods aside without having to clean Classic Salsa ored. it’s easy to sharpen at home. of the board before moving on to something else. Wood and plastic Makes 2 to 3 cups. Con: it’s softer than other materials, and therefore doesn’t are the best materials to use to reduce wear and tear on your knife hold a sharp edge as long, which means more maintenance. blades. never use glass, marble or metal surfaces as cutting boards. 5 Roma tomatoes 1 to 2 garlic cloves, finely CARBON Additionally, cutting boards should be secured to the counter ¼ cup red onion, finely minced surface so they don’t move while you’re chopping food. if it doesn’t diced Squeeze of fresh lemon Pro: carbon knives are harder and therefore hold sharp edges already have rubber grips on the bottom, place the board on top ¼ cup green pepper, or lime juice longer than stainless steel, which means less maintenance. of a wet dish towel, moistened paper towels or shelf liner. also, finely diced Salt AND pepper, to Con: prone to rust and discoloration. position the board at the edge of the counter or surface to make it 2 to 3 tablespoons taste easier to push the chopped food into a pot or pan. chopped fresh cilantro Your favorite tortilla HIGH CARBON No bulldozing! never use your knife blade-side down to scrape 1 to 2 tablespoons jala- chips, for serving Pro: The “sweet spot” because it blends the best character- food across a cutting board. Turn the knife over, so that the top of peño, very finely diced istics of stainless steel (nonreactive to acidic foods) with car- the knife — the spine — is on the bottom, and push food with that bon (holds sharp edges well) and overall is easy to sharpen. Quarter the roma tomatoes, scoop out the seeds (re- side instead. serving for another use, if desired) and dice the flesh. put Con: none Most knives benefit from hand-washing with soap and water. tomatoes into a large bowl and add red onion, green pep- CERAMIC dishwashers’ heat and cleansers can damage blades and wooden per, cilantro, jalapeño, garlic, lemon or lime juice and salt and pepper, to taste. serve with chips. Pro: none handles. store knives away from other utensils that might damage them. — Martin Gravely Con: ceramic knives are often expensive, fragile and diicult for home cooks to maintain. Never reach for a falling knife. resist the urge to try to catch it.