Designed by Joy Ommer Manuela Nagl Sophia Neuhoff

Edited by Christian Haßmann Amelia Shephard Jo Wolf

Written by Ann-Christin Schneider Janina Reiter Laura Sedlmaier Joy Ommer Manuela Nagl Sophia Neuhoff Amelia Shephard Jo Wolf Christian Haßmann

Thanks to Paul for the great layout support, Anne for inspiring feedback sessions, Janis for all the interesting cultural trips, Sally, Lutz and Mary. 2 3 “Edinburgh is an experience. A City of enormous gifts, whose streets sing of history, whose cobbles tell tales.“

Alan Bold Splendidly expressed Alan! This guy knew how to appreciate Scotland’s capital. And so will you with your Edinbro. This little know-it-all finds something that suits everybody’s interests. He has looked out for places worth seeing and guides you through the streets. He knows the best pubs and restaurants, sights and shop- ping opportunities and a lot about the city’s history as well. Put simply, you are better off with him. Your Edinbro guides you to the most amazing places in this romantic town. Laura Sedlmaier & Christian Haßmann

4 5 Edinburgh‘s History 8 41 Grassmarket Survival Guide 12 42 The Surgeons‘ Hall Scottish Lifestyle 16 43 National Museum Whisky 17 44 New Town Haggis 18 45 Scotts Monument Kilt 20 46 Georgian House Ceilidh 22 47 Royal Yacht Britanna Fried Mars Bar 24 48 Warriston Cemetry Unicorn 25 49 Old Calton Buriel Ground Golf 26 50 Harry Pottersburgh Irn Bru 27 52 Off the beaten track! Bagpipe 28 53 Portobello This is Edinburgh! 29 54 Arthur‘s Seat The Royal Mile 30 55 Calton Hill The Closes 31 56 Stockbridge Edinburgh Castle 32 58 Leith Suit up! 68 90 Backed Potato Shop Camera Obscura 34 59 Rosslyn Chapel Princes Street 69 91 L‘Alba D‘Oro Fish & Chips St Giles‘ Cathedral 35 60 Cramond Island Victoria Street 70 92 The Standing Order The Wirters‘ Museum 36 62 Edinburgh Zoo St Stephan‘s Street 71 93 Made in Italy The People‘s Story 37 63 Royal Botanic Garden Dovecot Studeos 72 94 The Scotch Scottish Parliament 38 64 Forth Railway Bridge Tartan Weaving Mill 73 Whisky Experience Palace of Holyroodhouse 39 65 Hawes Inn Art, aRt and more arT 74 96 What‘s up for tonight? Greyfriars‘ Bobby 40 66 Auld Reekie Tour Scottish National Portrait 97 Finnigan‘s Wake Gallery 75 98 Sandy Bells‘ Scottish National Gallery 99 Jazz Bar of Modern Art 76 100 Oz Bar Still‘s 77 101 Smallest pub of Scotland The Red Door Gallery 78 102 Cabaret Voltaire The Fruitmarket Gallery 79 103 Brass Monkey Summerhall 80 104 Sneaky Petes The Scotman Steps 81 105 Stand Comedy Club Scottish National Gallery 82 106 Cameo Queen‘s Gallery 83 107 Filmhouse The Edinburgh Liturary 108 Alternative Edinburgh Pub Tour 84 109 Forest Café Bon Appétit! 86 110 Couch Surfing Lovecrumbs 87 112 Hostel Jobbing Mary‘s Milk Bar 88 113 Mosque Kitchen Farmers‘ Market 89 114 Top Local Tips! 116 Contributions 6 7 EDINBURGH‘S HISTORY

...and stories beyond the cobblestones The Beginnings Scots used this fort the Abbey guaranteed and the area around ideas of the Reforma- from Edinburgh to as the most southern security and prosperi- the Grassmarket. With tion, but John Knox, London. Soon after, The origins of the outpost. However, ty which meant that a the rising population, the great reformer Scotland and England Scottish capital are this could not prevent small, famous stretch the living space was was able to enforce came to religious dis- still largely in the the British clans plun- of road – the Royal always scarce so that it in 1560. The Scot- agreements, which dark. It is estimated dering the city seven Mile, could develop. they were forced to triggered a civil war. that today’s volcanic times. build houses with up But in 1707, it came Castle Rock was a Rising of a Capitol to 15 floors. In so- to the union of Scot- natural defence estab- Town of the Kings cial harmony, nobles, land with England lishment and thus the However, it soon came artisans and mer- to become the King- th reason for a first set- In the 11 Century, to military conflicts chants, rich and poor dom of Great Britain tlement of the Picts. the markets at the in the region: Edin- lived together in such – the Act of Union. th Over the next 600 foot of the fortress burgh in the 13 and structures, which Edinburgh lost from th years, the Picts fought began to appear and 14 Centuries was they called closes. then on, rapidly de- against the English to the actual growth of besieged, attacked creasing in impor- secure the fortress. Edinburgh began. and partially de- Reformation and tance and prestige King Edwin destroyed David I founded the stroyed several times. Religion Wars compared to Lon- the small settlement Augustinian Abbey of In 1313, Robert the don. and built a fort, which Holyrood in 1124 on Bruce fought back In the 16th Centu- he called Edwines- the Castle Rock. The and conquered. In the ry, Edinburgh was Scottish Enlight- th burh. Until 1018, the Edinburgh Castle and middle of the 15 Cen- plagued again: Hen- enment tury, the city began ry VIII of England th to gradually recover wanted the marriage tish Parliament estab- In the 18 Century, from these setbacks between his son and lished a Presbyterian science and art in the and gained more and Mary Stuart, Queen Church, independent city saw a new flow- more importance. It of Scots. This failed, of the Church of ering: Philosophers, was the safest royal because Mary was Rome, which reject- poets and painters seat of the Scottish sent to France. During ed the authority of came to the city and country. Under the the exile of the Scot- the Pope. the Scottish doctors reign of Stuart King tish Queen, there The year 1603 achieved worldwide James II, Edinburgh was further political brought a drastic fame through their re- became the Scottish and religious unrest change for Edinburgh search and inventions. capital after Perth. In in the country: Edin- with it: King James VI Furthermore, the city 1450, Edinburgh was burgh was hit by the of Scotland succeeded flourished as a liter- secured and built the turmoil of the Ref- the English throne as ary metropolis. Edin- first city wall: It- in ormation. The Scots James I of England, burgh was the work- cluded the Old Town sympathized with the and moved his court place of Adam Smith,

8 9 Maggie Dickson more and more from 70s, devel- tage Site. England. But in con- opment In 1997, the second In 1784, Maggie Dickson was public- trast, the Edinburgh plans were referendum on the ly executed on the Grassmarket. Her body society renounced the instigat- question of the es- was put in a wooden cart and carried to Scottish dialect and ed which tablishment of a Scot- a graveyard. But while on this journey, preferred the “nobler” led to a tish Parliament was knocking noises coming out of the cart so King’s dialect. At the misguided ultimately successful: that it was opened again and to every- same time the Ed- demolition In 1999, the Scottish one’s surprise a living Maggie lay inside. inburgh City Council of several Parliament met for Maggie had served her sentence, and so made ​​the decision to parts of Ed- the first time back in the lawyers of Edinburgh decided that she build a new neighbour- inburgh. As Edinburgh. Today, the couldn’t be convicted of the same crime twice. hood at the foot of the a result, a city presents itself to 40 years later, “Half-hanged Maggie” died as Castle Rock because conserva- visitors with a strong a happy woman with a husband and children. the houses in the Old for the wealthy. Only tion move- new awareness of its After this happened, the law was changed to Town collapsed. They the poor and under- ment was formed and importance. say that a person had not served his sentence drained the Nor’Loch privileged lived in in 1995 Edinburgh’s Ann-Christin Schneider until the day he died. and under the super- the Old Town, up to Old Town and New vision of the famous the 19th Century. The Town became a UN- David Hume, Robert burn. The population architect James Craig, conditions there were ESCO World Heri- Ferguson and the grew further, as did the New Town of Ed- anything but humane. three lawyers Scott, the Scottish national inburgh was built. Burke & Hare Boswell and Steven- consciousness: The Many of the most im- The Second Rising The medical upturn in the 19th Century was son, who have been Scottish Enlighten- portant architects of of the Capitol only possible because of the rising numbers remembered in histo- ment philosophers the time designed the of autopsies. Therefore, human corpses were ry by their literature. distanced themselves new Georgian district. After the Second needed and doctors and professors turned a That’s why Business World War, Edinburgh blind eye to where their sources came from. Edinburgh was still slowly but surely In 1827/28, William Burke and William Hare, was distin- undertak- gained importance a pair of criminals, decided to fill the need not guished as en in the and the cultural life of by grave robbery. Instead, they murdered up the first UN- Old Town the city rose to new to 15 people in total and sold the bodies to ESCO City while heights. In 1974, The Dr Robert Knox, the most renowned medi- of Literature the New University of Edin- cal lecturer of Edinburgh’s university. in 2004. Town burgh won medicine, But they overdid their bloody game and were Edinburgh was ini- electronics and artifi- caught. The public demanded their hanging was also tially re- cial electronics pres- but the police had little evidence of murder. the home of served as tige for teaching and Hare struck a deal with the police and im- the promi- a purely research institutions plicated his companion. Burke was hanged nent painter residen- of international stand- while Hare was transported to Australia. Henry Rae- tial area ing. In the 60s and

10 11 Survival Guide

Essential Information the Castle Hill and known for its as well as the Highlands. closes; tiny, crooked streets that The main bus station is situated at Can a gie ye a haund? • Size of Scotland: 30,414 square detract to from the Royal Mile to St Andrew’s Square. The Scottish It is best to know that there are miles (78,772km²) the north and south. The Georgian CityLink connects all major Scot- three official languages in Scotland • Population of Scotland: 5.3 mil New Town was planned by the ar- tish cities and there are also Mega- - English, Scots and Scottish Gael- lion (8.3 per cent of the UK’s chitect James Craig. Originally, it Bus links with other UK cities. ic. It might be difficult for some population) consisted of three parallel streets You can reach Edinburgh by people to understand, so here • Population of Edinburgh: (Princes Street, George Street car from Glasgow, Stirling and are a few Gaelic words to get you 482,000 and Queen Street) and was later Perth via the highways M8, M9 started: • Official religion: Christianity expanded to the north. and M90. Parking is expensive • Country and area dialing code: To get around the city, you can in the city centre and parking +44 131 choose between various guided spots are hard to find. aye yes • Currency: Pound sterling (GBP) tours or discover Edinburgh on yill beer / ale • Time zone: Greenwich Mean your own. Free walking tours are dram glass of whisky Time (UTC0) available in different languages. Weather howf pub • Emergency numbers: ambulance (Check www.newedinburghtours. The high season in Scotland is weet the thrapple have a drink & fire emergencies – 999, police com for further information). between April and September, es- fou as a puggie very drunk – 101 pecially during school holidays in fitba football • Information Centre: 3 Princes July and August. In this time, the hottle hotel Street, Edinburgh EH2 2QP Arrival and getting around temperature is between 10°C and bahookie backside • Useful website: www.edinburgh. Edinburgh Airport is an interna- 20°C in the daytime. From October nae bother no problem gov.uk tional airport, located 8 miles to March, it gets colder with tem- piss’n doon heavy rain (13km) from the city centre. As an peratures between 6°C and 12°C. dreich miserable,grey wee small alternative option, you can arrive Be careful: It can get really windy! loch lake Welcome to Edinburgh! in Glasgow and take a bus or train kirk church to Edinburgh (approx one hour). Scotland’s charming capital has bogle ghost The Airlink bus connects the centre a lot of history, natural beauty grue sheer horror with the airport and leaves every 15 Sweet Dreams and adventure to offer. The city gowf golf minutes during the day (single tick- If you are still looking for accom- which is easily accessible on foot et: £3.50). Additionally, there are modation, these websites may is comprised of different parts, regular buses and the tram will be provide useful information. Or each with their own character. running in the near future. maybe you want to have a look The Royal Mile (p.30) is consid- Tourists travelling by train will ar- at our ways of alternative travel- ered the heart of Edinburgh. The rive into Waverley Station in the ling in Edinburgh (see p.). city centre can be divided into the centre or at Haymarket Station. www.hostel-scotland.co.uk Old and the New Town. The Me- ScotRail connects the cities Edin- www.visitscotland.com dieval Old Town is dominated by burgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Perth

12 13 Did you know...? when the city’s buildings burnt a Top Tips lot of wood and coal for heat, so Scottish people are known for their friendliness, yet also for their pas- chimneys would emit columns of sion about their traditions and heritage. So here are some things you Scotland... smoke into the air. absolutely should or shouldn’t do: • The Old and New Towns of the • ...has the unicorn as the na- city have been designated a UNE- tional animal (p.25). SCO World Heritage Site. DO DON’T • ...has the thistle as the national • The rock on which Edinburgh flower. Castle (p.32) is built is the plug of • Ride the airlink (depending on • Call a Scotsman English, you • ...has about the same land area an extinct volcano. Due to gla- the driver you might feel like Har- can get into big trouble. as the Czech Republic, the United cial erosion it formed a crag and ry Potter on the knightbus). • Talk about politics in a pub. Arab Emirates or Panama. tail formation: The Castle Rock • Drink cider and ale, they are • Let the weather stop you, life • ...drives on the left side of the and the Royal Mile. very popular in Scotland. goes on even if it’s raining. road. • The Royal Mile got its name • Try haggis; it’s tastier than you • Wear light clothing, weather in • The telephone, television and because it is about a mile long might expect. Scotland is very changeable. penicillin are famous Scottish street with two royal buildings at • Get lost in the city; Edinburgh • Be a skinflint, the people who inventions. each end: Edinburgh Castle and has so many hidden places. are acting on the street are doing • ...has the highest population of Holyroodhouse Palace. • Write whisky without an “e”; this for living. redheads in the world (13 per • ...is said to be one of the most whiskey is the Irish word and • Step on the brass plate on cent of the population). haunted places in Europe. Scottish whisky is much better. parking place 23 behind St Giles • ...is considered the homeland of • ...was designated the world’s • Save your coins for the buses; Cathedral, it is the grave of John golf (p.26). first UNESCO City of Literature they don’t have change. Knox. in 2004 (p.84). • Climb Arthur’s Seat; you will feel • Stub your cigarette on the pave- • Joanne K. Rowling wrote her like the king of the world if you ment, there is a penalty if caught. Edinburgh... first novel of the“Harry Potter” make it. • Drink on the streets, this is not series at the Elephant House Café • Buy something tartan, because permitted and will have conse- • ...is the Scottish capital, but on George IV Bridge (p.50). it looks really good on everyone. quences if caught. only the second largest city after • ...hosts the biggest New Year • Walk around; Edinburgh is a Glasgow. street party in the world, known walking city. • ...was built on seven hills, like as “Edinburgh’s Hogmanay”. • Listen to Ae Fond Kiss from Ed- Rome (see Arthur’s Seat, p.54 & Over 100,000 people enjoy won- die Reader; it is an old poem of Calton Hill, p.55). derful music in Princes Street Robert Burns. • ... has a population of 450,000 Gardens and at midnight, dazzling • Always bring an umbrella. but during the month of August fireworks display on all seven hills figures double because of theEd - surrounding the city. inburgh Festival. Sophia Neuhoff & Laura Sedlmaier • ...its nickname “Auld Reek- ie” (Old Smoky) marks an era

14 15 Whisky Water of life

Aqua vitae, Uisge ruptcy and oversea Tasting Crash Course Beathy or in English smuggling became -colour: dark-> old simply called Whis- a massive problem. ky. The difference Around that time -teardrops at the glass: between the Scot- soldiers tended to many + run quickly = tish national liquor drink more whisky young and the Irish versi- as it is was healthy -smell: add a splash of on is that the Irish with the result that it water to the Whisky write it with an ‚e‘: got prohibited. -How does it feel? Whiskey. Today we count 108 silky? syrupy? tingly on Once upon a time whisky distilleries in the whisky distilling Scotland. The tas- tongue? has been a hobby te varies from each the tasting takes place of the farmers in the part. While in Islay on the palate highlands. The first the whisky is more Scottish Lifestyle recorded distilling smoky, the Speysi- more fruity. of Scotland is listed de one tends to be A whisky has to be ol- in the 15th centu- der than three years ry. Almost otherwise you can‘t a hundred drink it. Those are years la- less expensive, but ter whisky the more it is aged was ban- the more expensive ned from it will be. 70% of the the public price is tax. and only If you do like it: you noble peo- can enjoy it in a tra- What comes to your mind when you think about the Scottish life- ple had ditional whisky shop, style? Are bagpipes popping into your head, or whisky, golf, kilts access to a pub like Sandy and haggis? That is right! These are a few very important aspects - the natio- Bell‘s (p.98) or the of Scottish life, but Scotland has more to offer. Discover the inter nal drink. Silver Tour of the esting story about the unicorn, why a Scotsman has to get some At the Scotch Whisky Expe- IRN BRU after an evening with too much alcohol or what a fried end of rience (p.94) offers Mars bar is. Go out and learn to dance at the ceilidh, so you can act the 18th you a widespread as- like you are from Scotland. We’ve found the most important things century sortment. you have to know and try when discovering Scottish lifestyle.Laura Sedlmaier bank- Joy Ommer

16 17 Haggis

The hunt of the Grand Fluffy Balls This description is not immediately ap- It is not just the sheep’s innards Who is it? pealing so that they Loch Ness Monster – its heart, liv- are now serving a which gives Scot- er, kidneys and It lives in the Highlands, vegetarian Hag- land its reputation lungs – minced a beast of the species gis as well. A good as the country of with onion, “Grand Fluffy Balls”. The place to try is “No.1 myths and legends. oatmeal and strange creature with at High Street” on Also the national suet mixed with fluffy fur and a shorter the Royal Mile. The dish haggis inspires spices. Before right leg than left. It is restaurant with its the Scot’s imagina- grimacing, it is damned to always walk rough stone walls, the white cream vegetarian version tion. Dark myster- not as bad as it around the mountains golden chandeliers sauce on the vege- consists of a special ies entwine around sounds. Haggis in the same direction – and comfortable tarian haggis, there mixture of beans, the traditional rec- is considered to peaceful, shy and very leather couches with is no other signifi- lentils and spices ipe and strange be the national hard to spot. This mam- chilled music in the cant difference be- so that its texture stories are told dish of Scotland mal is the Haggis. air, offers traditional tween the dishes. is slightly smoother about it. as a result of and vegetarian Hag- Don’t be scared to and less intensive Haggis is a savoury Robert Burns’ gis as a starter for take the first bite be- than the original pudding containing poem Address to a Haggis of 1787. a reasonable price cause No.1’s Haggis Haggis – but no less (£4.95). is really delicious. delicious. It has an excellent Haggis is a culinary Whisky sauce nutty, grainy tex- adventure for ev- ture and an inten- eryone. Now even The Haggis isn’t sive flavour. If you vegetarians have served in a tradition- didn’t know it, you no excuse for try- al sheep stomach. wouldn’t guess that ing Haggis. Just Instead, it looks re- these little balls are be brave! ally sophisticated as mixed organs. The Ann-Christin Schneider these little fried balls placed on tiny sliced Restaurant “No. 1 at High Street”: “neeps and tatties” 1 High Street, Edinburgh EH1 1SR (turnips and pota- Hours: Sun-Tue 10am-11pm, toes) and a sweet Wed-Sat 10am-1am orange whisky www.no1highstreet.net sauce. Apart from

18 19 Elephant House Café: Rowling always sat down on the same table to enjoy one of the delicious Arabic coffees while putting all her Harry Pottersburgh ideas together. Look through the windows and study the architecture of George Heriot’s No, it wasn’t mentioned in the books, nor did any filming take place here. School as she did. George Herriot’s School Edinburgh, however, is where Joanne Kathleen Rowling found safe har- was her inspiration for Hogwarts. Indeed, bour and inspiration while she was struggling to finish Harry Potter and it has four houses as well: Castle, Greyfri- the Philosopher’s Stone. Thus, Edinburgh is an important Potterite des- - ars, Lauriston and Raeburn. After enjoy tination. Okay, Diagon Alley where Harry, Ron or Hermione bought their ing the view and a coffee, go to the toilets wizard wands and brooms or the hidden platform 9 ¾ at King’s Cross and read a few of the acknowledgments Station are all places in London. But you would be surprised how many for Rowling and quotes of Harry Potter. places in Edinburgh are total Potterites. Think about how everything Maybe write something on the walls as well. could have started while following her footprints around town. Rowling, 21 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1EN as a penniless single mother, is strolling around Edinburgh. She needs

more details, more names to com- plete Hours: Mon-Thu 8am-10pm, Fri 8am-11pm, her story. Here is a list of them: Sat 9am-11pm, Sun 9am-10pm Ann-Christin Schneider Choco-Latte: Chocolate is hanging from the rafters and Many people are- Greyfriars Cemetery: countless sweets of every co- lying underneath your feet – so many un lour and shape are begging told stories. No wonder that Rowling found for a try. Rowling copied some more inspiration for her characters at this of the sweets in this little pink place. Behind the church is a separate part shop for her book. Perhaps you of the graveyard called “Flodden Walls”. can find the famous chocola- William McGonagall, a Scottish actor te frogs in the displays. Take who won notoriety as an extremely bad one or two for a really good poet and one of the worst writers in the price (£0.69 each) and enjoy - them like a Hogwarts student. English language, and Thomas Riddell, a soldier, are just two names writ 39 South Clerk Street, ten in the dark tombs – in Rowling’s Edinburgh EH8 9NZ

books they are Gryffindor’s head Hours: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm,

teacher and Lord Voldemort. Mad Sat 10am-4pm Eye Moody lies here as well. Hogshead: The Hog’s Head Inn in Hogsmeade village – a dirty, run-down place where Dumbeldore’s Army met. But the real Candlemaker Row, Hogshead Pub changed its name in 2009 to The Amber Rose. It Edinburgh EH1 2QQ is a small pub in a cellar in Rose Street with a beautiful design of the ceiling. It is the right place to finish a magical tour with a butter ... sorry, Scottish beer.

22–26 Castle Street / Rose Street, Edinburgh EH2 4LS

Hours: Mon-Thu 11am-12am, Fri-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 12:30pm-12am 50 51