Galapagos of the Southern Ocean

GALAPAGOS OF THE SOUTHERN OCEAN

NEW ZEALAND’S SUBANTARCTIC AND CHATHAM ISLANDS

EXPEDITION DOSSIER 11– 27 FEBRUARY 2021

natural habitats’ on the planet. They are also afforded the highest conservation status and protection by the New Zealand Government and access to these islands is by permit only.

The Chatham archipelago (made up of at least 12 islands, plus numerous islets) lies 870 kilometres east of New Zealand and runs 45 minutes ahead of the rest of the country. The first part of New Zealand and the first inhabited landmass around the globe to be greeted by the morning sun, the history of these islands and their rich natural history is unique. It is only in recent years that these precious islands have begun to be understood and appreciated.

It is only by visiting and experiencing these remarkable islands that one can truly appreciate what they have to pportunities to visit all five of New Zealand’s offer. During our explorations of these wild and remote Subantarctic Islands plus the Chatham islands we will hear remarkable stories of rediscovery, O Islands are rare and can only experienced population recovery and world leading conservation efforts by a privileged few. This outstanding voyage is your including the Black Robin and its rescue from the brink of opportunity to discover amazing endemic wildlife, meet extinction and the once thought to be extinct Chatham the locals and experience conservation in action as we Island Taiko (Magenta Petrel). journey through these incredibly-diverse archipelagos rich in wildlife, human history and filled with inspirational The name we have given to this voyage ‘Galapagos of the stories of conservation. Southern Ocean’ reflects the astounding natural biodiversity and the importance of these islands as a wildlife refuge. Long recognised for their rich biodiversity, the Subantarctic Islands lying to the south and east of New This impressive expedition includes all five New Zealand Zealand are UNESCO World Heritage sites. This places Subantarctic Islands, The Snares, Auckland, Campbell, them in a select group of only 180 natural sites that have Antipodes and Bounty along with the Chatham Islands. been designated as ‘the most important and significant Each one is different and unique – just like this expedition.

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ITINERARY Day 1: Invercargill Passengers should make their way to the Ascot Park Hotel where our group will spend the first night of the expedition. This evening there will be an informal get-together at the hotel for dinner; an excellent opportunity to meet fellow adventurers on your voyage and some of our expedition team. © R Robinson

Day 2: Port of Bluff In the sheltered bays, we should Our plan is to land at Sandy Bay, Today we enjoy breakfast in the see the endemic Snares Crested one of three breeding areas hotel restaurant and take the Penguin, Snares Island Tomtit in the Auckland Islands for the opportunity to explore some of and Fernbirds. Cape Pigeons, Hooker’s or New Zealand Sea Lion, the local Southland scenery and Antarctic Terns, White-fronted a rare member of the seal family. attractions before heading to Terns and Red-billed Gulls are Beachmaster bulls gather on the the Port of Bluff to embark the also present in good numbers. beach defending their harems Spirit of Enderby. You will have There are hundreds of thousands from younger (ambitious) males, time to settle into your cabin and of Sooty Shearwaters nesting on to mate with the cows shortly after familarise yourself with the ship; The Snares; the actual number they have given birth of a single we will also take the opportunity is much debated. The Buller’s pup. Hookers or New Zealand Sea to conduct a number of safety Albatross also breeds here from Lion numbers are in a slow decline, briefings. You are invited to early January onwards. for reasons which are not obvious join the expedition team and but most probably connected with captain on the bridge as we set Days 4 to 6: Auckland Islands – a nearby squid fishery. our course to The Snares and our Enderby Island/Carnley Harbour adventure begins. The Auckland Islands group was During our day ashore there will formed by two volcanoes which be several options, some longer Day 3: The Snares erupted some 10-25 million years walks, some shorter walks and time – North East Island ago. They have subsequently to spend just sitting and enjoying The closest Subantarctic Islands been eroded and dissected the wildlife. The walking is relatively to New Zealand, they were by glaciation creating the easy, a boardwalk traverses the appropriately called The Snares archipelago as we know it today. island to the dramatic western as they were once considered cliffs, from there we follow the a hazard for sailing ships. Enderby Island is one of the coast circumnavigating the island. Comprising of two main islands most beautiful islands in this and a group of five islands group and is named for the In the south of the archipelago called the Western Chain; they same distinguished shipping there is a very large sheltered are uninhabited and enjoy the family as our own vessel. This highest protection as Nature northern most island in the Reserves. It is claimed by some archipelago is an outstanding that these islands are home to wildlife and birding location and more nesting seabirds than all of is relatively easy to land on and the British Isles together. walk around. The island was cleared of all introduced animals We plan to arrive early in the (pests) in 1994 and both birds morning and as landings are not and the vegetation, especially permitted we will Zodiac cruise the herbaceous plants, are along the sheltered eastern side recovering both in numbers and of the main island if the weather diversity. and sea conditions are suitable. © K Ovsyanikova

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Day 7: Campbell Island – Perseverance Harbour New Zealand’s southernmost Subantarctic territory Campbell Island’s history is as rich and varied as the other islands we have visited. Discovered in 1810, it too was soon occupied by sealers who introduced rats and cats.

In 1895 the New Zealand

© R Robinson Government advertised the island as a pastoral lease. The lease was taken up by an entrepreneurial harbour it is rich in human history of the ‘Grafton’ which was New Zealand sheep farmer who including shipwrecks, treasure wrecked here in 1864. All five men stocked the island with sheep hunters, Coastwatchers and aboard survived and lived here and cattle. The farming practices, of course scientific parties. We for 18 months before sailing their which included burning the scrub, plan to arrive early morning modified dinghy to New Zealand modified the island considerably. from our anchorage at Enderby to get help. Two of the survivors The farming lasted until 1934 Island. We enter the harbour wrote books about their ordeal when it was abandoned. through the eastern entrance and their first hand accounts tell us Coastwatchers were stationed on which is guarded on both sides a lot about their time here. by dramatic cliffs and rugged the island during the war, at the end of the war the station was tussock covered hills. Alternatively, we may visit the taken over by the New Zealand Erlagan clearing where a German Metrological service and they Our activities here today are Merchant ship cut firewood to maintained a manned weather/ totally weather dependent. fire its boilers after slipping its research station on the island We have a number of options. moorings in Dunedin on the eve until 1995. If the weather is OK there will of the Second World War. Another be an opportunity for the more potential site is Camp Cove where In the early 1970s a fence was energetic expeditioners to we can see the remains of the erected down the middle of the climb to the South West Cape castaway depots established and island, with stock removed from and visit the Shy Mollymawk maintained by the New Zealand the northern half. The impacts colony. Above the colony Government between the 1860s of the remaining animals were we occasionally see Gibson’s and early 1900s. Wandering Albatross breeding. This climb provides magnificent views in all directions, especially over the western entrance to Carnley Harbour, Adams Island and Western Harbour. For those not able to make the climb (it is reasonably difficult) there will be an opportunity to Zodiac cruise along the coast of Adams Island and Western Harbour, with landings in the latter.

Other options include the Tagua Bay Coastwatcher’s hut and lookout (the former is derelict) which was occupied during the Second World War. We could visit Epigwatt and the remains © S Gutowsky

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monitored and they were all eventually removed in 1990. The vegetation recovered quickly and the cats died out naturally.

In a very ambitious (and never before attempted on such a large scale) eradication programme the New Zealand Department of Conservation successfully removed the rats. With the island declared predator free, the way was clear to reintroduce the endangered Campbell Island Flightless Teal © T Bickford which had been rediscovered on an offshore island in 1975. few places where the Fairy Prion, Main island and namesake Snipe, which were formerly Fulmar Prion and Antarctic Prion Antipodes Island have benefited unknown from the island but were occur together, providing a good from one of the world’s most discovered on another offshore opportunity for comparison. Other successful island eradications island, recolonised the islands species to be on the lookout for dubbed the ‘Million Dollar Mouse’. themselves. The vegetation which include the Soft-plumaged Petrel, A joint initiative between the the great English botanist, Sir Mottled Petrel, White-headed Department of Conservation Joseph Hooker described in 1841 Petrel, Grey-faced Petrel, White- (DOC), the Morgan Foundation, as having a “Floral display second chinned Petrel, Grey-backed WWF New Zealand, Island to none outside the tropics” is Storm-Petrel, Wilson’s Storm-Petrel, Conservation and public support, flourishing and is nothing short of Black-bellied Storm-Petrel and the the programme successfully spectacular. Common Diving-Petrel. eradicated some 200,000 mice from the island in less than two We will offer a number of options Day 9: Antipodes Islands years with DOC announcing the which will enable you to explore The Antipodes Islands are the most island ‘mouse free’ in 2018. The the island and allow you the isolated and perhaps least known island’s unique plants and wildlife, opportunity and time to enjoy the of New Zealand’s Subantarctic including 21 species of breeding Southern Royal Albatross which Islands. Sealers lived here in the seabirds, more than 150 species nest here in large numbers. We decades immediately after the of insects – 17 per cent endemic also visit areas of the island which islands’ discovery in 1806 and two to the Antipodes; 21 uncommon contain outstanding examples historic, and one recent, shipwreck plant species and four unique of the megaherbs for which the have been recorded here. land birds now thrive following the island is renown. removal of the mice. The islands are of volcanic origin, Day 8: At Sea but are heavily eroded, especially Landings are not permitted on the At sea en route to the Antipodes, the western shoreline which is Antipodes group, so if the weather it is a day for pelagic birding. ragged and dotted with sea and sea conditions are suitable, we Species commonly seen in this caves, stacks and coves. The plan to cruise along the coastline area include Wandering Albatross islands are frequently buffeted of Antipodes Island by Zodiac. species, Southern Royal Albatross, by westerly winds, while overcast The bull kelp Durvillaea Antarctica Black-browed Albatross, conditions and drizzle are not ‘Antipodes Island’ is prevalent Campbell Island Albatross, Light- unusual. The largest of the group here, this dark-brown subtidal plant mantled Sooty Albatross, Salvin’s is Antipodes Island, which rises to with thick flattened blades can Albatross, Grey-headed Albatross, 366 metres with the volcanic cone grow up to 10 metres long. As we Northern and Southern Giant of Mt Galloway, most of the island Zodiac cruise the coastline we Petrel, the Sooty Shearwater and has an undulating plateau cut by have a good chance of seeing the the Little Shearwater. This region of deep alluvial gullies. Antipodes Parakeet, the largest of the Southern Ocean is one of the

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be had from the ship and there will also be hundreds of birds following behind.

Days 12 to 14: Chatham Islands We have three days to explore here and have worked closely with the Chatham Island people to create a varied programme ensuring a greater appreciation and exploration of these islands, however the daily itinerary will be © J Mishina determined by weather and sea conditions. New Zealand’s parakeets, which Day 11: Pyramid Rock has an entirely green head. We will There are excellent opportunities Consisting of one large island also be looking for the Reischek’s for pelagic birding as we and numerous smaller islands and Parakeet, a strong subspecies of approach the Chatham Islands’ rocky islets, only two islands of the the Red-crowned Parakeet found archipelago. In particular, we will Chatham Islands’ archipelago are in the Auckland Islands and on the look out for the Chatham Island inhabited. They represent New Chatham Islands, as well as the Petrel, and in the past we have Zealand’s eastern most territory Antipodes subspecies of the New observed the very rare Chatham and were originally settled by East Zealand Pipit. We can also expect Island Taiko in this area too. Polynesians (either directly or via good views of both Erect-crested Endemic to the Chatham Islands, New Zealand as the evidence and Rockhopper Penguins along the Chatham Island Taiko – also supports some contact there) the coast where they often breed known as the Magenta Petrel – in the 1400s. Their geographic in mixed colonies. Antarctic Terns is among New Zealand’s most isolation saw them develop their and Kelp Gulls are also often seen endangered species. It is one of own distinct culture. In the 1770s in good numbers. the world’s rarest seabirds with Europeans discovered the islands a population estimated at less with sealers and settlers following. Day 10: Bounty Islands than 150. In the 1830s New Zealand Maori The incongruously named Bounty invaded the islands, killing and Islands, the northernmost of the This afternoon we plan to cruise enslaving many of the indigenous five New Zealand Subantarctic around the spectacular basalt Moriori people. The impact of groups, were discovered by outcrop of Pyramid Rock, south the original settlers, the European Captain William Bligh when the of Pitt Island – the only breeding and later the Maori on the native British naval ship HMS Bounty place of the Chatham Island flora and fauna was disastrous. sailed by the islands in 1788, just Albatross. Landings are not Introduced animals, hunting, fires months before the infamous possible (nor practical – a fact and land clearing wiped out mutiny. Here inhospitable granite you will appreciate when you see many species of endemic birds. knobs, tips of the submerged it) but great views of birds can Bounty Platform, are lashed by the Southern Ocean. They are home to thousands of Salvin’s Albatross, Erect-crested Penguins, Fulmar Prions and the endemic Bounty Island Shag – the world’s rarest. We plan to arrive in the early morning and Zodiac cruise the granite outposts to take a closer look at the birds breeding here and the large numbers of New Zealand Fur Seals which were almost hunted to extinction. © O Liodden

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landings are not permitted, we can expect good views of the world’s rarest wader the endemic New Zealand Shore Plover, and Chatham Island Oystercatcher. We should also see the Pitt Island Shag which nests on the island.

At Pitt Island, spectacular scenery waits at this jewel in the Chatham Islands’ crown. The easternmost inhabited island in New Zealand, it is situated approximately 22 kilometres south-east of the main Chatham Island. Named ‘Rangihaute’ by the Moriori, it is © S Howell separated from the main island by Pitt Strait and is officially the first Fortunately a number survived Chatham Island Pigeon, Chatham inhabited place on Earth to be on the offshore islands in the Island Warbler and Tui. The greeted by the sun each day. archipelago. pigeon was close to extinction, though now supports a healthy Situated to the west of Pitt Island, With a new generation of Chatham population. Travelling by local Mangere Island is one of only two Island people there has come a bus, the road takes us through sites in the world where the Black new awareness and a willingness developed farmland where we Robin (once the world’s rarest to be part of a concerted will undoubtedly see numerous bird) are found. We will hear the conservation effort. A number introduced species and the Weka. story of how this endemic species of private reserves have been There will also be an opportunity was rescued from the brink of established on the main Chatham to continue further south to the extinction in the 1970s when Island; a lot of replanting has Tuku River and Taiko Town where the total population consisted taken place and predator control you will be able to learn about of just six birds. The recovery of initiatives have been instigated. We the discovery and conservation this little bird is a remarkable hope to experience some these work done on the Chatham Island tale of persistence, passion, firsthand during our time on the Taiko, one of the world’s most courage and a little luck. Also main island. endangered seabirds. on Mangere and Little Mangere Islands is the Forbes’ Parakeet We expect to visit the Awatotara During our time here we also hope (aka the Chatham Parakeet). Valley, one of the original private to Zodiac cruise South East Island, This rare parakeet is endemic to reserves where there is a very arguably one of the world’s the Chatham Islands, where it is good chance to see the endemic greatest nature reserves. While confined to these tiny islands.

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DATES Voyage #SOE2186 11 – 27 February 2021 PRICES

Heritage Suite $17,430 pp* Large lounge area, separate bedroom with double bed and a single bed in the lounge, writing desk, wardrobe and drawers. Private bathroom with shower, toilet and washbasin. Large forward and side facing windows allow great views.

Mini Suite $16,360 pp* Separate bedroom with a double bed and a single bed or sofa in the lounge, writing desk, wardrobe and drawers. Private bathroom with shower, toilet and washbasin. Mini Suites have windows.

Superior Plus $15,890 pp* Two lower berths, writing desk, wardrobe and © J Gurden drawers. Private bathroom with shower, toilet and washbasin. These cabins have windows.

Days 15 to 16: At Sea Note: During our voyage, Superior $ 14,675 pp* En route to Invercargill we we circumstances may make it One bunk (one upper and one lower berth), writing desk, wardrobe and drawers. Private bathroom with can expect some great pelagic necessary or desirable to deviate shower, toilet and washbasin. These cabins have birding. We expect to encounter from the proposed itinerary. windows. include several species of This can include poor weather Main Deck $ 13,900 pp* albatross, petrel, shearwater and and opportunities for making Two lower berths, writing desk, wardrobe and drawers. Private washbasin. Nearby shower and prion as we sail back. unplanned excursions. Your toilet facilities are shared with other Main Deck Expedition Leader will keep cabins. These cabins have a porthole. It’s also a good time to take the you fully informed. Landings at Main Deck Triple $ 13,075 pp* opportunity to relax and reflect the Subantarctic Islands of New One bunk (one upper and one lower berth) and Zealand are by permit only as one additional lower berth, writing desk, wardrobe on the expedition, and download and drawers. Private washbasin. Nearby shower and edit any remaining photos administered by the Government and toilet facilities are shared with other Main Deck cabins. These cabins have a porthole. while they are fresh in your mind of New Zealand. No landings and you have the experience of are permitted at The Snares, * The price listed includes the additional landing fee of $1,200 pp. (All prices are per person in NZ$) our expedition team on board for Antipodes and Bounty Islands. questions. PRICE INCLUDES Landing fees, pre/post cruise transfers, We will recap the highlights of our one night hotel accommodation in a expedition and enjoy a farewell twin share room (incl. dinner/breakfast), dinner on the second evening as all on board ship accommodation we sail to our final port. with meals and all expedition shore excursions. Day 17: Invercargill PRICE EXCLUDES Early this morning we will arrive in the Port of Bluff. After a final All items of a personal nature, laundry, drinks, gratuities. International/domestic breakfast we bid farewell to flights, visas and travel insurance. our fellow voyagers and take a complimentary coach transfer to either a central city point or to the airport.

In case of unexpected delays due to weather and/or port operations we ask you not to 2186140121CC book any onward travel until after midday today.