GET WILD ABOUT MILD KING of the BELGIANS May Is Being Celebrated As Mild Month in the King of the Belgians in Hartford Was CAMRA’S Annual Promotion

ISSUE 123 SUMMER 2005 FREE FREE FREE

CAMRA HUNTINGDONSHIRE BRANCH

GET WILD ABOUT MILD KING OF THE BELGIANS May is being celebrated as Mild Month in The King of the Belgians in Hartford was CAMRA’s annual promotion. Mild is saved from closure in February as the brewed with a low gravity and hop rate local authority refused two planning appli- and is rounder, normally slightly sweeter cations to turn this historic pub into resi- and less bitter than more highly hopped dential dwellings. A shadow had been bitters. Roast malt, caramel or occasion- hanging over the pub for two months after ally roast barley are used to darken most its owners applied for change of use and milds. structural changes to convert the commu- To help highlight that mild is an endan- nity local to housing. gered beer style, CAMRA is running a Closure was against the wishes of licen- 'Spot a Mild in the Wild' competition. Con- see Jamie McAuley, who leases the pub sumers will be able to tell CAMRA where from owners Alliance and Mutual Pubs, they spotted 'a mild in the wild', and report and was very much against the wishes of back on their website, for a chance of the many regulars of the pub, who had winning a mystery prize. Details of the been running a spirited campaign to op- competition can be found at pose the planning application. A petition of www.camra.org.uk/mild. 480 signatures and 167 letters of objec- Locally, Elgoods of Wisbech fly the mild tion had communicated to Huntingdon- flag throughout the year. Their Black Dog shire District Council's development con- mild with its liquorice character and dis- trol panel the level of local support for the tinctive bite is sold at the Cock at Heming- continued operation of this pub. The ford Grey and occasionally at the Floods panel unanimously voted to refuse both Tavern in St Ives. Batemans’ nutty, fruity planning applications after local councillor mild is usually available at the Lord John Mike Simpson had told the meeting that Russell in St Neots, and sometimes at the the pub would probably remain open if the White Hart, Great Staughton. Greene plans were refused. King’s XX Dark Mild can be found at the Submissions to the panel from the Hart- Crown Litlington, and the Waggon and ford Conservation Group and from the Horses, Steeple Morden. And look out for Huntingdonshire branch of CAMRA had milds during May at the Green Man, Colne pointed out that the King of the Belgians and the Chequers, Little Gransden. provides the only traditional community pub in Hartford, an essential social focus and a unique amenity that is not otherwise available. The submissions also stressed that the pub is an integral part of the com-

CAMRA, the Campaign for Real Ale, is a consumer organisation founded in 1971 KING OF THE BELGIANS munity’s historical heritage and that the when 80 supporters of the pub cheered proposed changes would have an adverse when the applications were unanimously impact on the character of a Grade II rejected by the councillors. listed building and the economic and so- The King of the Belgians is a 16th century cial heart of the Hartford community. pub on the old main street in the pictur- Early in the campaign to save the pub esque village of Hartford, a stone’s throw local CAMRA branch members Paul away from the River Great Ouse. The Moorhouse and Kathy Hadfield- ceiling in the public bar displays a collec- Moorhouse spoke at a public meeting of tion of aviation-related memorabilia of Huntingdon Town Council, which agreed British and international units of the Cold to formally recommend refusal of both War era, and also national and interna- applications. tional air-related events. Some of these Some of the key arguments put forward memorabilia are unique, referring to units by the Hartford Conservation Group and that have been disbanded and events that CAMRA concerned the potential viability form part of our regional and national his- of the pub as well as the fact that licensee tory. The pub was once called the King of Jamie McAuley had put in a formal re- the Prussians, but the name was changed quest to buy the pub from Alliance and during WWI. It is believed that Oliver Mutual as a going concern. Cromwell used to frequent the establish- ment. In February, on the same day as the decision, CAMRA issued a revised version of its ‘pub viability test’ guidance to help save Britain's pubs. CAMRA says that 20 pubs are "lost" every month and the guidance helps local authorities to objectively test claims of lack of economic viability often made by developers. The guidance includes case studies of planning appeals, including one at Reach, Cambridgeshire, in which planning inspectors have dis- missed changes of use for pubs where lack of viability has not been demonstrated. In a similar appeal decision for a pub near Bristol, an inspector had ruled that a similar pub was valued by the local community. This case was cited by Huntingdon- shire council’s development control panel in coming to their decision on the King of the Belgians. Their report stated: "In view of this material consideration, the loss of the King of the Belgians would result in the loss of a valuable community facility." In the end, though, the level of local support may have also been a deciding fac- tor. This was eloquently demonstrated

2 Support your local pub - don’t give them an excuse to close it! OPENING TIMES 123 SUMMER 2005 3 A LOOK BACK IN TIME 25 YEARS AGO pack, St Neots. CAMRA’s ‘Make May a Mild Month’ cam- Tolly Cobbold were significant suppliers of paign was promoting four real draught real ale to the local area in 1980. The milds that were available in local pubs in Black Bull and the Manchester Arms in St 1980, including three brewed by Greene Ives both stocked the new Tolly Original King. Paines of St Neots then supplied beer and the Black Bull also served Tolly their sweetish dark mild to the Prince of Bitter by handpump. The Queens Head in Wales at Hilton and the Royal Oak in St Needingworth and the Swan at Blun- Neots. The Crown at Litlington and the tisham also served real Tolly ale. Ipswich Old Sun in Eaton Socon both stocked company Tollemache Breweries acquired Greene King’s KK pale mild. Different a number of local pubs in their 1934 take- versions of Greene King’s XX dark mild over of the Star Brewery on Newmarket were brewed in Biggleswade and Bury St Road, Cambridge and its 119 pubs. Tolly Edmunds. The Darby and Joan at Abing- Cobbold came about through the merger ton Pigotts served the dryer Bury version, in 1957 of Tollemache’s with fellow Ips- and the malty Biggleswade dark mild was wich brewers Cobbold. on offer at the Spread Eagle in Croxton, The Old Sun at Eaton Socon served the Windmill at Somersham and the Greene King Abbot, IPA and KK light mild Wheatsheaf, St Neots. using electric pump dispense. In May 1980 CAMRA launched a Bass The St Neots branch of CAMRA held battle call over the plan by the national branch meetings at the Pear Tree, brewer to close its famous historic Burton Bassingbourn, the Lord John Russell in St Unions – a system using large intercon- Neots and the Spread Eagle at Croxton. nected wooden casks to ferment the cask There were summer trips to Batemans ale draught Bass and the real bottled ale Brewery and to Oxford and socials at the Worthington White Shield. Bass eventu- Lion in Ramsey and the Sun and the Half ally closed their Union system but Burton- Moon at Kimbolton. on-Trent neighbours Marstons kept theirs and in 2005 it is still used for Marstons Summer 1980 saw the launch of Pedigree. CAMRA’s What’s Brewing as a public sale magazine. Book stalls and bookshops St Neots and District CAMRA’s beer exhi- were selling the magazine priced at 50p. bition at the Riverside Festival at the end Previously produced only as a members’ of May was a sell-out despite adverse newspaper, the new magazine featured a weather on the Saturday, and 1800 gal- colour cover and articles on Monty Py- lons of real ale and 260 gallons of cider thon’s Terry Jones and his Penhros brew- were consumed over the weekend event. ery and a photo feature on East Anglian Brewers Paines donated prize beer for a pubs at the turn of the century. tug-o-war contest held on the Sunday and Greene King donated XX dark mild for a Tony Millns, CAMRA Tyneside branch yard of ale competition. chairman, was elected to CAMRA’s national executive on his first attempt at the Eynesbury became a real ale desert as membership’s 1980 Annual General Meet- the Plough ceased serving Watney’s Stag ing. As a resident of Cambridge Tony was real ale, while new outlets for the new later to become well known in Cambridge- Wells Bombardier real ale were the Bell, shire CAMRA circles and as an indomita- Stonely, the Three Shuttles, Tilbrook, the ble national CAMRA chairman. Wheatsheaf, Eaton Socon and the Wool-

4 Read OpeningTimes online: www.huntscamra.org.uk/news A LOOK BACK IN TIME 10 YEARS AGO CAMRA chairman John Cryne launched In summer 1995 CAMRA called for a take- CAMRA’s new battle to save pubs at the over bid for Courage breweries by Scot- campaign’s national Annual General tish & Newcastle to be referred to the gov- Meeting in Wolverhampton, after esti- ernment’s Monopolies and Mergers Com- mates had predicted 5000 pub closures. mission. But CAMRA feared that the ‘big ‘The pub is central to CAMRA’s activity is beautiful’ attitude of Trade and Industry because without it there could be no real Secretary Michael Heseltine would result ale’ John told the AGM, ‘Good pubs en- in the £435m merger being given the nod hance the image of real ale. CAMRA has in order to boost the UK’s standing in identified 250 pubs worthy of listing. We world markets. CAMRA argued that UK need more or we face a future of Scruffy brewers export only a fraction of their out- Murphy’s.’ put and that ales are not in great demand Fullers of Chiswick again brewed Hock in other countries. dark mild as a seasonal beer to coincide CAMRA held a protest march in Notting- with CAMRA’s annual ‘Make Mine Mild’ ham in a bid to stop the closure by Scot- campaign in May 1995. Other brewers tish & Newcastle of their Home brewery in had been dropping the ‘mild’ tag from their the city. CAMRA were correctly predicting brand names. Greene King XX Dark, that Home would be a victim after a Scot- Highgate Dark, Banks’s Ale had all lost tish Courage merger. their ‘mild’ tag in a bid to boost their flag- St Neots CAMRA presented its Pub of the ging image, while McMullens AK pale mild Season award in summer 1995 to the had even been re-badged as a bitter. Golden Miller at Longstowe. A May social CAMRA’s Cambridge branch welcomed visited the Wheatsheaf at Perry and the Adnams to the city as it bought former Mermaid at Ellington. Summer branch Allied Breweries pub the Castle and re- meetings were held at the Three Horse- opened it as an Adnams tied house selling shoes in Ramsey and the Nelsons Head the full range of the Southwold brewers’ in St Ives. In July the branch ran a real ale beers. bar at the St Neots Riverside Festival and Peterborough CAMRA’s reaction to made a presentation to the licensee of the Greene King’s purchase of the city’s long Wheatsheaf in St Neots. lost alehouse, the Still, was not reported in CAMRA opened its new St Albans head- an item announcing this news in the quarters in newly converted premises and CAMRA members’ newspaper ‘What’s local brewers McMullens brewed a special Brewing’. beer to commemorate the event. Bedford brewers Charles Wells splashed All day Sunday opening was on the way out on 3000 new casks to meet the 22% as a new Bill passed its final stage in the increase in demand for their Bombardier House of Commons and started its pas- real ale. sage through the House of Lords in May And in Cambridge, Charles Wells offered 1995. free beer in its Cambridge pubs to drink- Charles Wells re-opened the Old Falcon ers attending the Cambridge Folk Festival. in St Neots after a £100000 refurbish- It was Wells’s second year as sponsors of ment, one of five Wells pubs to have had the annual event after taking over from major refits ten years ago. In 2005 the Old local rivals Greene King. 100,000 pints of Falcon is closed and its future is uncer- beer had been sold in the festival beer tain. tent the previous July. brewingOPENING and is TIMES in no way 123 intended toSUMMER be a definitive 2005 guide. Several good books, published5 PUB NEWS Cambridgeshire Hunter, Eynesbury As previously reported, the Cambridge- Victoria, Huntingdon shire Hunter has undergone an extensive Phil Beer, licensee of the Green Man, refurbishment. Peter Sturman, the new Colne, with his partner Teresa, has taken Manager, arrived in January to oversee on two additional leased pubs from Punch the timely improvements. Peter is no Taverns, the Victoria in Huntingdon and stranger to real ale, having run large real the Cherry Tree at Haddenham. Real ale ale pubs in London and Ipswich in the will be the focus at these pubs, and is past, so he is keen to see a guest real ale already being well received. The Victoria being offered alongside Eagle and Bom- offers Adnams Bitter and two to three bardier. Improvements to the kitchen will guest cask beers – these have included mean bar food being available for the first Shepherd Neame Spitfire and Cromwell’s time, but Peter stressed that the Cam- Delight, brewed by Cottage brewery to bridgeshire Hunter will not become a food celebrate Huntingdon’s 800th anniversary pub, with offerings limited to bar snacks. as a town. Other improvements include an expansion of the pub games activities, with new darts • The Old Falcon in St Neots Market and pool teams being formed, a regular Square is on the market at a guide price quiz night on Tuesdays, and with 3 big of £1m, with potential for pub/restaurant/ plasma screens, the Cambridgeshire retail at ground floor and with flat/ Hunter will be a good place to enjoy major housing above and to rear. sporting events televised on Sky. The pub • The Mill at Alconbury is a recent con- reopens on Friday 22nd April. vert to real ale. New licensees have Lord John Russell, St Neots been serving well kept cask beers – Adnams Bitter and Potton Village Bike Claire and Ryan Kirk are the new ten- have been sampled. ants at the Lord John Russell in St Neots. They have been in pub man- • Potton Brewery now features as a regular guest beer at the Tavern on the agement for 8 years, and this is their Green, Great Staughton alongside first tenancy. The pub has been re- three Greene King beers. decorated throughout, and a Sky screen is being installed. Other • The Fox, Catworth will be holding their annual beer festival from June 24th – changes Claire and Ryan are intro- th July 4 . Live bands will include Doctor ducing include live music and karaoke Buster on Fri 24th, GlamRock on Fri 1st, evenings and bingo and special OAP and Bedside Manner on Sat 2nd. evenings. Alongside the regular Bate- • The Bridge House, St Neots was mans XB Bitter, two regular guest closed for refurbishment during April beers will be featured—Batemans and was expected to reopen in May. Dark Mild and Elgoods Cambridge were on offer on a recent visit. Claire • The Three Horseshoes at Wistow has will also be offering good value pub new owners, Gerry and Julia Berry, who took over in April. They’ve no plans to food. The no smoking area in the con- make any changes, and Adnams Bitter servatory is proving to be very popu- and Broadside plus a guest beer will lar. continue to be offered.

6 Support your local pub - don’t give them an excuse to close it! "ThatOPENING this House TIMES expresses 123 concern SUMMER at current proposals2005 to define a pint of beer as "not7 YORKSHIRE DRINKING A recent visit to some old friends in North was converted from a solicitor’s office. Yorkshire allowed me to spend a couple The Last Drop serves a selection of York of days in York to visit one or two of the Brewery beers and a guest beer - on this Good Beer Guide listed pubs in this his- occasion Crouch Vale Essex Boys Bitter. I toric city. decided to have lunch here and washed it The first pub I visited was the Maltings, down with a pint of another single hop probably because I had been there before beer from York Brewery, Mount Hood and knew it offered an excellent range of 4.0%. well kept beers. The pub always seems to On the way to the station I passed the be busy, both with locals and tourists and York Brewery shop which sells souvenirs is especially popular at lunchtimes when (T shirts, glasses, key rings etc.) as well all the tables are usually reserved. The as bottled beers. The shop and visitor pub also hosts regular beer festivals centre are in Toft Green, just behind Mick- which are popular with beer drinkers from legate. Contact York Brewery on Tel: all parts of the country 01904 621162 or at www.yorkbrew.co.uk (www.maltings.co.uk for details). On this for details of brewery tours. visit I sampled Anglo Dutch Devils Knell The next day I visited Knaresborough to 4.8%, Hambleton Passion Killer 4.3% and see the ruins of the castle which was de- Roosters 2005 Chinese New Year Beer stroyed during the civil war. Not far from 4.3% (2005 is actually the Year of the the castle is Blind Jacks, a Good Beer Rooster). Regular beers were from York Guide listed free house with an excellent Brewery and Black Sheep and on this visit range of beers all from Yorkshire micros. Oakham Cold Turkey was one of the Although the town seemed fairly quiet at guests. 5pm on a Friday evening, the pub was The York Brewery became the first brew- really busy. Blind Jacks won the CAMRA ery in the city for 40 years when it opened Best New Pub award in 1992 and remains in 1996. The brewery has set up a small an excellent place for good beer and con- chain of pubs in the city and also a visitor versation, with none of the piped music centre at the brewery. The latest of their and electronic games and vending ma- pubs is the Rook and Gaskill to the south chines which spoil too many good pubs of the city just outside the city walls; its these days. As for the beers, these are distance from the city centre probably detailed on a blackboard above the down- explains why I was the only customer at stairs bar. I tried Drunken Duck 4.3% and 1.30pm on a weekday. The walk is re- Nector 5.0% from the local Roosters warded by a good choice of York Brewery Brewery (whose products are regularly beers. I tried Progress 4.0% brewed with available alongside Black Sheep beers), Progress hops. A number of guest beers Copper Dragon Challenger IPA 4.4% and were available on this occasion from Sla- Goose Eye Migrating Goose 4.3%. Also ters and Beartown breweries, and while available but not tried were York Mount Slaters beers are often available around Hood 4.0% and Village (Hambleton) White the country, I can’t recall seeing Beartown Bear 3.7%. beers featuring as guest beers too often. Next door to Blind Jacks is the Beer Ritz On the way back into the city is another off licence which sells a really extensive York Brewery pub, the Last Drop on Col- range of beers. Not visited but also rec- liergate. Unlike the Maltings and the Rook ommended is the Mitre Hotel near the and Gaskill, this is a modern pub which station which always features local beers

8 Updates to Branch Diary - www.huntscamra.org.uk/diary YORKSHIRE DRINKING including Roosters. I will make sure that I mier and Broadstone Black Abbot. visit Knaresborough and in particular Blind A short walk away is the Three Legged Jacks again. Mare, another York Brewery pub which Next day I made a return visit to York. featured a selection of York Brewery First stop was of course the Maltings. I beers and a number of guest beers includ- had lunch here washed down with some ing Castle Rock Harvest Pale 3.8%, Bear- excellent Outlaw Silver Lining 4.3% (from town Bear Ass 4.0%, Slaters Bitter 3.6% Roosters) and Burton Bridge Spark and and Slaters Original 4.0%. Ride 4.5%. A number of other York pubs are featured From here I visited the Minster Inn, which in the Good Beer Guide but limited time although only just outside the centre of meant that these will have to wait for my York is off the tourist trail and remains an next visit. With a journey time of just over unspoilt community pub with several 1 hour from Peterborough, York is easily rooms off a central corridor. It was fre- accessible and well worth a visit with lots quented by employees of the local Royal of attractions, including the Minster, Jorvik Mail depot and it reminded me of the Viking Centre, National Railway Museum, Hand and Heart in Peterborough. Regular The Walls and an abundance of shops to beer here is John Smiths Cask together keep the family happy. The Yorkshire with up to 4 guest beers. I tried Blindmans Moors and the seaside resorts of Scarbor- Mine Beer 4.2%. Also available were ough and Whitby are also a short journey Skinners Betty Stogs, Moorhouses Pre- from York by car, bus or train.

OPENING TIMES 123 SUMMER 2005 9 A FEW HINTS AND TIPS ON HOMEBREWING The following are purely a few personal My water treatment consists of putting 12 observations made over many years of grammes of gypsum into 25 litres of water home brewing and are in no way intended and then boiling the water for 15 min- to be a definitive guide. Several good utes—do this the night before you intend books, published by CAMRA, are avail- to brew. After it has cooled transfer 15 able for the home brewer. litres of the treated water to the mash tun The three normal ways in which home- and add 2 grams of Epsom salts. This will brew can be made are as follows: bring the mash to about pH 5. This is worth the trouble. 1) From a Kit. The strike heat of the mash liquor is 76 You are obviously connoisseurs of fine degrees C. The mash will then settle out ales; we don’t need to dwell any further on to 66-67 degrees C once the grist has that. Only to say that if you do want to been added. Keep this temperature for 1½ make some quick and easy “beer” then it hours sp that the wort will ferment out a bit is always best to get a well known brand further and produce a slightly dryer taste, with 3 kilogrammes of malt extract. But I have found that what ever kit is used there Sparge until a pH of 6.3/6.5 or an O.G. of is always that taint of extract and you 1005 is reached, and any more unwanted know it’s not the real thing. You are better residues are taken into the boiler. I then off getting some bottle conditioned beer. top the boiler up to about 33 litres, add hops and then boil for 1½ hours. Add late 2) Using Malt Extract Syrup hops and Irish moss 15 minutes from the This makes a much better brew than the end. Always boil with the lid off the boiler kit as you have more control over the fin- as this will let the volatile hop oils evapo- ished product, there are numerous recipes rate and stop any off flavours developing available, and you have the opportunity to in the finished beer. try some of your own. Enjoy your brewing It is possible to almost eliminate that taint Malcolm Lloyd of extract. Crystal malt, black malt, roast barley, sugars, syrups and your own Home Brewing books available from choice of hops can all be used in recipe CAMRA – www.camra.org.uk formulation. Water treatment is also rec- “Brew Classic European Beers at Home” ommended to produce an acceptable bev- by Graham Wheeler erage (see below). However, the quality Keen home brewers can now recreate of beer is still not up to the standard of some of the world's classics with the help brewing by the full mash system. of a book that has chosen the cream of 3) The Full Mash international beers. £7.99 This is the best way to brew good beer at “India Pale Ale - Homebrew Classics” & home. You have total control over every “Stout & Porter - Homebrew Classics” thing and the quality and taste of the beer both by Clive La Pensee & Roger Protz produced is second to none. These books combine definitive histories I don’t want to go into the full procedure of these beer styles and examples of reci- here, I would just like to share a few tips pes for you to try yourself. £7.99 that I have found give me just that extra quality.

10 All CAMRA approved beer festivals are listed on www.camra.org.uk TheOPENING following TIMESare purely 123 a few personalSUMMER observations 2005 made over many years of home11 12 Join 77,000 members of CAMRA and fight for Britain’s beer heritage OPENING TIMES 123 SUMMER 2005 13 14 Write to Opening Times at 13a Peppercorns Lane, St Neots, PE19 8HL OPENING TIMES 123 SUMMER 2005 15 PUB OF THE YEAR—CHEQUERS, LITTLE GRANSDEN The Chequers, Little Gransden has been two other rooms. The ales are well kept selected as the 2005 Pub of the Year by and there is always an unusual guest the Huntingdonshire branch of CAMRA. beer. There was a presentation of a framed The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA)'s certificate to licensees Wendy and Bob Huntingdonshire branch announced the Mitchell on Friday 25th February. award to coincide with CAMRA's National Pubs Week which ran from 19-26 Febru- ary. The branch winners will now enter county, regional and national stages and the national Pub of the Year award will be made during next year's Pubs Week in February 2006. The 2005 winner was the renowned Fat Cat pub in Norwich (see page 21). The Pubs Week celebration in support of British pubs has been declared an un- precedented success with over 10,000 pubs participating. Bob and Wendy Mitchell have owned and run the Chequers for 12 years and the pub has been in the Mitchell family since 1950. Bobs' late father, Syd, ran this classic village local for 42 years. CAMRA gives this annual award to the pub that it judges to provide the widest appeal for its combination of good beer, atmosphere, style, service and value. We are delighted to give this award to Bob and Wendy - they are enthusiasts for good beer and pubs and excel in all these criteria. The convivial public bar with its plain wooden seating and open fire is an unaltered gem and there is a choice of

16 Support your local pub - don’t give them an excuse to close it! OPENING TIMES 123 SUMMER 2005 17 REAL ALE IN A BOTTLE Last year CAMRA genuine and traditionally produced bottle launched its accredita- conditioned beer." tion scheme for Real Ale CAMRA piloted the scheme with over 40 in a Bottle, the bottled breweries and over half of eligible brewer- equivalent of the ies now participate. The intention is that draught real ales you the identifiable mark will show drinkers can enjoy at the pub. what type the beer is, how it was made Real ale in a bottle is unpasteurised and a and how the beer should be stored and natural live product which contains yeast served. Consumers will be able to more for a slow secondary fermentation in the easily differentiate real ale in a bottle from bottle. This process preserves the won- other bottled brands. derful fresh flavours of the brewer’s craft, As well as having the logo on the bottle, and ensures a pleasant natural efferves- CAMRA will be working with retailers to cence. provide materials that will help them pro- CAMRA launched its scheme because of mote real ale in a bottle and outlets that the difficulty in spotting ‘real ale in a bottle’ stock it. Eventually, CAMRA would like to in the supermarket. Real ale in a pub has see these beers stocked as a separate always been easy to identify by its tradi- category. tional dispense system, the handpump. Hand-in-hand with the launch of the Many people wrongly assume that the real scheme, came the publication of ale brands that they enjoy in the pub are CAMRA's Good Bottled Beer Guide, ed- the same as their counterparts in bottle. ited by Jeff Evans and sponsored by This is not always the case. Those in the ASDA. It is a mark of how things are im- know have previously looked for the proving that the guide now lists over 600 words ‘bottle-conditioned’ or ‘conditioned bottled beers from 143 breweries. This is in the bottle’ on the bottle label. Another up by more than 100 beers and 30 brew- method is to hold the bottle up to the light eries since the last edition, and light years to see if it contains any sediment – the away from the mere 5 bottle conditioned life-giving yeast that makes all the differ- beers that were available when CAMRA ence. started life in 1971. The Guide costs £9.99 It is now possible to identify ‘real ale in a and can be bought at www.camra.org.uk. bottle’ by checking labels for the logo ‘CAMRA says this is real ale’. Shop Beers RAIAB The idea behind the accreditation Lidl St Neots 0 0 scheme, with its distinctive logo (above) Morrisons Cambourne 58 4 on the bottle label is to ensure instant recognition on the shelf. Rainbow St Neots 21 2 With the "CAMRA says this is real ale" Sainsbury Huntingdon 45 8 hallmark, real ale in a bottle will now be Somerfield St Neots 14 1 easily identifiable. As Steve Draper of the Tesco Huntingdon 35 2 City of Cambridge brewery said, "CAMRA Tesco St Neots 25 1 is a publicly recognised organisation sup- Unwins St Neots 10 2 porting quality produced real ale. By using the logo on our bottles this reinforces the Wadworth St Ives 62 16 message that the public are buying a Waitrose St Ives 36 5 Waitrose St Neots 32 4 18 Find out more about Real Ale in a Bottle at www.camra.org.uk/raib REAL ALE IN A BOTTLE So where can you buy all this good stuff? Of the smaller supermarket chains, Rain- During March I surveyed all the supermar- bow has a good range given the size of kets, specialist beer shops, and off- store, Somerfield has a limited range but licences in the local area. Here is a sum- Lidl currently offer none. Hopefully im- mary of the total number of total number provements will be encouraged here by of bottled beers and ‘real ales in a bottle’ I the new CAMRA scheme. found. You would not expect small off licence Top marks goes to J Wadsworth, the spe- shops to compete with supermarkets, but cialist wine and beer merchant in St Ives, for example, Unwins offers a respectable for its range of bottled beers, many from range given their size. The full details of microbreweries, and the total number of all the ‘real ales in a bottle’ I surveyed can ‘real ales in a bottle’. be found at www.huntscamra.org.uk/raib. Of the major supermarket chains, Sains- Other sources for ‘real ale in a bottle’ are bury is the notable leader for choice. Mor- mail order companies, and farmers' mar- risons has an impressive range and is kets where small brewers now sell their excellent value with all bottled beers at beers (Wissey Valley Brewery regularly £1.59 and “4 for £5”. Waitrose has a rea- has stalls at St Ives and Huntingdon farm- sonable selective range with numerous ers’ markets). A small selection of special- specialist products like organic beers but ist shops, details of the scheme's support- Tesco is very disappointing, with their ers and other information can be found at bottled beer shelves often empty. www.camra.org.uk/raib. Andy Shaw

OPENING TIMES 123 SUMMER 2005 19 HALF PINTS ELGOODS GOLDEN NEWT Our Fenland neighbours Elgoods are now producing the pale hoppy bitter Golden Newt all year round. The Wisbech brewer’s beers are noted for their dry, malty character but their Golden Newt, previously a seasonal beer, features an aromatic hoppy quality and a Golden colour. A blend of Fuggles, Goldings and Cascade and lavish use of late hops in the brewing copper brings the delicate hop flavours & aroma to the fore. The use of Cascade gives a pleasing citrus aroma. Wheat malt and rye crystal are used in the mash along with maris otter pale malt.

20 All CAMRA approved beer festivals are listed on www.camra.org.uk JENNINGS TAKEOVER BID NATIONAL PUB OF THE YEAR

CAMRA calls for Jennings share- East Anglian pub voted ‘Best in holders to take action Britain’ for a second time! CAMRA is calling on Jennings Brewery The Fat Cat in Norwich, Norfolk, has won shareholders to act now to protect the the 2005 ‘National Pub of the Year’ title - independence of the Brewery. CAMRA's the only pub to have been voted best pub call follows speculation that Wolverhamp- in Britain twice since the competition be- ton & Dudley Brewers (W&DB) are poised gan in 1988! to make a takeover bid. The Fat Cat is described in CAMRA’s Jennings is a very successful regional Good Beer Guide 2005 as an "Ale drink- brewer with rising profits and sales and an ers’ paradise. This award winning pub estate of 128 pubs. In the last financial serves a range of ales; the tap room can year Jennings beers enjoyed an 8% be seen behind the bar. Up to 25 guest growth in freetrade volume. The Brewery beers include one mild and a dark ale, also recorded an impressive 13.4% rise in sourced from leading breweries around profits. the country. Themed weeks are held Mike Benner, CAMRA’s Chief Executive throughout the year. The pub stocks up to said, “Any bid from W&DB for Jennings 30 Belgian bottled beers, plus six on tap. Brewery will be bad news for consumers CAMRA’s National Pub of the Year in and employees, but also for the wider 1998, its popularity ranges from locals to community in Cumbria who face the po- students; visitors to Norwich should not tential loss of a unique local brewer. miss it." CAMRA is calling for shareholders to put pressure on the Jennings board to reject Colin Keatley, owner of the Fat Cat said, "I any bid from W&D Brewery.” am overwhelmed at winning the National “W&DB’s promises to keep Jennings Pub of the Year award for the second Brewery open, however genuine, are no time. I am just about to open a new pub in guarantee. In 1999 W&DB acquired Norwich so this news could not have Mansfield Brewery and closed it within two come at a better time! To be voted best years. CAMRA are urging all shareholders pub in Britain for the first time in 1998 was to oppose a takeover to save Jennings some achievement, but to run and own Brewery from a similar fate.” the only pub in Britain that has won this "Like many local and regional brewers award twice is just unbelievable. We have Jennings has a large number of small run a good operation at the Fat Cat for shareholders who are committed to the over 14 years and my wife and I would future of the Brewery. W&DB will have a like to thank all the staff and locals for hard task persuading them that a takeover their support - without them this wouldn’t is in the interests of Jennings Brewery." be possible!" Mr Keatley plans to open a new pub called the Shed in Lawson Road, Norwich in April. There will be a small brewery adjoining the pub, called the Fat Cat Visit CAMRA online: Brewery Company, that will brew some of CAMRA’s Home Page its own beer to sell at his two pubs. http://www.camra.org.uk Huntingdonshire Branch Home Page http://www.huntscamra.org.uk

OPENING TIMES 123 SUMMER 2005 21 LOOKING BACK AT PUBS ALONG THE OLD A45 The former county of Huntingdonshire The Crown was at the junction of the vil- has, like all areas, seen big changes in lage road and the by pass. It closed a few pub ownership over the last 30 years. years ago and has now been replaced by I have travelled through the area regularly new housing. One pub lost. since the early 1960s when I used to cycle The next village is Great Staughton. This from Higham Ferrers to St. Neots to watch had three pubs in recent times. The White steam trains hauled by LNER pacifics Hart is a former coaching inn. It was for- hurtling through the station. So I got to merly a Watneys outlet but is now thank- know the road well. In those days it was fully Batemans. At the A45 - now it is the more humble B645. the other end of As a schoolboy I could not fail to see that the village were many of the pubs were run by Paines, two pubs. On one with its brewery on the market square at side of the road St Neots. There was a Paines pub oppo- was Charles Wells’s New Tav- site St Neots station, to where the station White Hart, Gt Staughton staff would disappear at lunchtime. Not ern, a lively, any more. No station staff and no pub. popular locals pub. Directly opposite was The area around the station became in- The Crown, a former Paines pub that was dustrialised and the pub became (in the rather more upmarket. What happened early 70s) “Bruno’s Steak Bar” to cater for was that the New Tavern closed about ten this. A few years later it was an office. A years ago but moved across the road few more years and it had been demol- complete with name. One pub lost. ished. The next village was Stonely, near to Kim- Looking at the pubs in the area it is clear bolton. This had a Charles Well pub, the that national trends have been followed. Bell that I never, regrettably, visited. It had Pubs have been taken over by groups, very little in the way of parking, which did and traditional breweries have not help passing trade. This too closed “rationalised” their estate. In St. Neots about ten years ago. One pub lost. there has been considerable de-pubbing, Kimbolton has the air of a small town with particularly affecting the former Paines its impressive main street which makes a pubs, several of which have closed or sharp turn at each end. On a street paral- changed use. Charles Wells have opened lel with this was a Charles Wells pub, the a pub/hotel next to the A1, which was a Half Moon. This closed over fifteen years private house when I first knew the area. ago. One pub lost. One gain is that a former Paines pub, the In the main street of Kimbolton are the Lord John Russell, is now Batemans. Saddle (a former Watneys pub) and the Moving west the village of Hail Weston New Sun (formerly Paines). Some years has a bendy road ago Charles Wells re-established itself in through it and Kimbolton by taking over the New Sun. effectively a by The remaining pub here, the White Horse, pass. There were is well off the main road. two Charles At Tilbrook there used to be a Charles Wells pubs in the Wells pub called The Three Shuttles, Royal Oak, Hail Weston village. The Royal which had unusual high-level metal hand Oak is a pleasant pumps. This also closed over fifteen years pub which operates as a “family” venue. ago and, as is often the case, it is difficult

22 Support your local pub—don’t give them a chance to close it! LOOKING BACK AT PUBS ALONG THE OLD A45 now to see which of the houses is the days many Charles Wells pubs in other former pub. Charles Wells took over the areas used top pressure for cask beers. other much larger pub the White Horse Today most of the pubs sell real ale. This (formerly Watneys). One pub lost. must be considered a gain even if the Some two miles from Tilbrook, in the mid- choice offered by the ‘free houses’ could dle of nowhere and next to the long closed sometimes be more imaginative. Kimbolton station, was the Manchester Charles Wells has disposed of many low- Arms. I visited this one the 80s for a pint turnover rural pubs and there are several of Paines. I was the only customer. It has examples in the area. On the other hand closed - hardly surprising given its loca- there are examples where Charles Wells tion. One pub lost. have moved to larger more promising Travelling west we reach the point where premises in the same village, and also the three counties of Bedfordshire, where they have taken over Watneys Northants and Huntingdonshire came pubs - surely a gain. together. Covington had the Red Cow, a Paines beers were never top of the pops pleasant, thatched Charles Wells pub, and the brewery was slow to respond to doubtless more valuable as a private the real ale movement. Their bitter, even house. Another pub lost. under top pressure, was a pleasant malty Further west, just into Northants and just light bitter. They introduced a stronger off the main road is the village of Har- bitter, EG, as their “vanguard” beer. I also grave. Here is the Nags Head, formerly a remember with pleasure drinking their Charles Wells pub, latterly a free house. I dark mild (it was all that was left!) at an believe it is still open. early Northampton Beer Festival. The final village before Higham Ferrers is To me, however, Paines is a sad case. It reached is Chelveston. This has one pub, was always a small brewery, owning 24 the Star and Garter, which used to be pubs in 1973. It finally dispensed with top Watneys but was taken over by Charles pressure in its pubs. In some cases this Wells some years ago. was not a good idea many of its pubs So what can we conclude about the were low turnover and quality could suffer. changes in pubs in this area over some I remember my only visit to the Bull, the thirty years? The statistics do not look “brewery tap”. It had a fascinating old- good. Between St Neots and Higham Fer- fashioned bar, like a Victorian drawing rers (excluding both) were a total of 15 room, no customers, and a loud clock that pubs of which 7 have now gone. This is, somehow discouraged conversation. The however, a very rural area with little pass- beer, served by gravity, could have been ing trade. A glance at an old OS map will used to season fish and chips. Given the show many more pubs no longer in busi- present day real ale scene, though, ness in the villages off the main road. Paines could have been a treasured asset to the area if it had survived, with its pic- Thirty years ago there was no real ale at turesque brewery and small country town the Watneys or Paines pubs and the only image chance of getting real ale west of St. Neots was at Charles Wells’s pubs, most Peter Fleming of which were serving real ale. This could be because the brewery had not yet mod- ernised these rural outposts. In those

OPENING TIMES 123 SUMMER 2005 23 SEA, SAND, SEAWEED . . . HOPS—WE MUST BE IN SOUTHWOLD! It was a spring beach party as 28 Hunting- and filterability. donshire CAMRA members and guests The two major products, Broadside and enjoyed a weekend visit to the Suffolk Bitter, use a similar mix of grain but are coast and Adnams brewery. mashed separately. These days the two mash tuns and two coppers process many more brews than of old – new fermenting vessels have vastly increased capacity. The characteristic and intense Adnams hop aroma and taste have been main- tained over the years despite steady pro- duction increases to keep up with demand. Hops for the brewing coppers are supplied compressed into ‘type 90’ pellets, called off as needed in sealed packs. This gives good keeping qualities and a more uniform bitterness, compared with the old method of storing large quantities of hops Adnams’ superb beers usually seem to in sack ‘pockets’ in the brewhouse. taste even better closer to the brewery. Friday evening gave plenty of opportunity Hop varieties are selected give the varied to check this in the brewery’s hostelries in spicy, earthy and citrus hop flavours of the and around the town, particularly the Lord different beers. Fuggles and Goldings are Nelson. staple varieties and First Gold, one of the dwarf hop varieties developed for easier At 9.30 sharp on Saturday we were ush- harvesting, provides citrus notes. Distinct ered into the Adnams brewhouse for the grapefruit flavour in some beers comes rare privilege of a tour of this mecca for from American Columbus and Chinook enthusiasts of good beer. Our guide was hops, and similar characteristics have Fergus Fitzgerald, affable assistant been exploited in a new English hop, brewer to head brewer Mike Powell- Boudicca, that has been tried. Evans. His enthusiasm was obvious as he explained the brewing process and the all- For Bitter, the copper receives an extra important selection of ingredients that charge of late Fuggles hops for the last 15 produce such a wide-ranging portfolio of minutes of the boil to provide hop aroma distinctive beers. that would be lost from the main charge of hops used to provide bitterness. A few All the malt is East Anglian. Maris Otter whole hops are also added to ‘dry hop’ pale malt is preferred and believed to give every cask as it is filled – this develops a biscuity quality to the beers, although the hop aroma further during distribution the Optic variety is occasionally used in- and cellaring. Broadside does not need stead in seasonal beers. Crystal and any late or dry hops and the relatively chocolate malt and other specialist malts subdued hop character allows its more as well as rye crystal and Scottish oat- malty features to be enjoyed. meal are stored in sacks and pale malt is stored in large silos. The malt mill has A whirlpool is used to aid separation of given 45 years’ service; settings are ad- solids as the hopped wort is discharged justed and locked for each season’s malt for fermentation. A two-strain yeast is to grind the malt for the best extraction used for all beers. The new enclosed vessels for Bitter and Broadside each hold up

24 Visit our branch website at www.huntscamra.org.uk SEA, SAND, SEAWEED . . . HOPS—WE MUST BE IN SOUTHWOLD! to 240 barrels. Smaller open vessels fer- whisked to the sample cellar. The beers ment seasonal cask ales and bottled we sampled there were in magnificent beers. form. The Broadside was superbly malty Regular attention is needed to remove and the Explorer had a particularly intense surplus yeast and monitor the drop in grapefruit flavour. The Bitter provided the gravity as sugar turns to alcohol. At a ultimate in hop aroma and flavour, en- gravity specified for each beer the vessel joyed again later in the back bar of South- is cooled to slow fermentation and keep a wold’s Crown and at the Harbour Inn. controlled residual level of sugar that, with Here the Adnams Bitter as well as the the required amount of yeast from con- chocolatey Oys- trolled settling, will provide secondary ter Stout were fermentation in the cask. amongst the best samples After around 7 days the beer goes into that weekend in casks with isinglass finings that ensure Adnams’ South- the yeast settles effectively to give clear wold pubs, all of beer. Typically, four days’ stock of beer is which ooze char- in store at the brewery. Casks reach pub acter and dis- cellars within a week of filling when sup- tinctiveness to plied direct by Adnams. match the beers A new-found sprightliness was noted they offer. amongst some members as we were

OPENING TIMES 123 SUMMER 2005 25 EVENTS AND SOCIALS May 2005 Cambridge Beer Festival Sat 21st Heritage Pubs Trip by rail to Telford to visit Mild passport pubs. Contact Andy Shaw for more details. Wed 25th Visit to the Cambridge Beer Festival, Jesus Green (7:30pm). County bus services are available from Huntingdon, St Ives and St Neots. Jun 2005 Wissey Valley Brewery Trip Tues 7th Open Committee Meeting, Woolpack, St Neots (8.30 pm) Sat 25th Trip to Wissey Valley Brewery, Stoke Ferry, Norfolk. A tour of the brewery, a mini beer festival and food has been arranged for CAMRA members and their guests. The event starts at 2:30pm. Jul 2005 Shaw’s Stroll Fri 1st Visit to the beer festival at the Fox, Catworth. Tues 5th Open Committee Meeting, The Horseshoe, Offord Darcy (8.30 pm). Sat 16th Heritage Pubs Trip by rail to Faversham, Kent. Contact Andy Shaw for more details. Sun 17th If you agree that the definition of a perfect Sunday is a walk through the countryside followed by a pub lunch, join Andy Shaw and friends on a Shaw’s Stroll of Keyston & Bythorn (4 miles). Meet at the Pheasant, Keyston at 11am. Aug 2005 Greene King Trip / Rockingham Brewery Talk Tues 9th Open Branch Meeting. Brian Bosworth of Rockingham Brewery will be joining us at the Swan, Old Weston to talk about how be began brewing. Also, there will be the chance to hear from the Committee about recent branch activities (8.30 pm). Sat 20th Trip to Greene King, Bury St Edmunds. A tour of the brewery has been arranged for CAMRA members and their guests, commencing at 12 noon. Transport may be available. Wed 24th Evening trip to the Peterborough Beer Festival by rail. For current timetables please refer to www.rail.co.uk. Sep 2005 Booze on the Ouse Beer Festival Tues 6th Pre-festival meeting, at the Oliver Cromwell, St Ives (8.30 pm) for all those helping with the St Ives Beer festival. If you would like to help at the festival, please contact Andy Shaw, on 01480 355893. Thurs 15th to Saturday 17th Booze on the Ouse – St Ives Beer Festival, Burgess Hall, St Ivo Centre. Opening Times: Thurs: 6-10.45 pm; Fri 12-3 pm & 5-10.45 pm; Sat 12-10.45 pm. FREE ENTRY to CAMRA members. VOLUNTEERS WELCOME! Thurs 22nd Evening trip to the Letchworth Beer Festival, Plinston Hall, Letchworth by rail. For current timetables please refer to www.rail.co.uk For further information please contact Pete Godfrey, Social Secretary, on 01480 212849 or e-mail: [email protected]. For an up to date listing, log on to: www.huntscamra.org.uk/diary. For current train timetables please refer to www.rail.co.uk.

26 Updates to Branch Diary - www.huntscamra.org.uk/diary WHO TO CONTACT OPENING TIMES Chairman & Newsletter Editor: Andy Opening Times is published by the Hunt- Shaw, (01480) 355893, chair- ingdonshire Branch of CAMRA, the Cam- [email protected] paign for Real Ale (Copyright 2005) All Secretary, Press & Publicity: Paul rights reserved. Moorhouse, (01480) 496247 (h), secre- Views or comments expressed in this [email protected] publication may not necessarily be those Treasurer: Sonia Clarke, (01480) of the Editor or of CAMRA. 355893 (h), [email protected] Contact the Editor Andy Shaw, on: Membership: Margaret Eames, (01480) (01480) 355893, or 385333 (h) [email protected], or Socials: Pete Godfrey, (01480) 212849 13a Peppercorns Lane, Eaton Socon, St (h), [email protected] Neots, PE19 8HL. Pubs Info: Roy Endersby, (01480) To Advertise 413364, [email protected] To place an advert or enquire about our Campaigning: Kathy Hadfield- rate card please contact: Moorhouse, (01480) 496247, cam- [email protected] Neil Richards—01536 358670 [email protected] Deadline for Autumn 2005 issue (124) is Tuesday 26th July 2005.

TRADING STANDARDS

Your local Trading Standards organisation is Cambridgeshire County Council Trading Standards. If you have any complaints about trading standards issues at local pubs please contact them. They have a role to protect consumers from errors or frauds concerned with quality, description or price of goods, services or facilities and to detect and rectify unfair advertising practices. Contact Cambridgeshire Trading Stan- dards helpdesk on 0845 3030666, or at Trading Standards Division, Sackville House, Sackville Way, Great Cambourne, Cambridgeshire, CB3 6HD. The trading standards web site is www.tradingstandards.gov.uk

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