Northern India & the Himalayan Foothills
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Northern India & the Himalayan Foothills Naturetrek Tour Report 11 - 27 January 2019 Gharial & Indian Skimmers Ibisbill & Little Egrets White-browed Shrike-babbler Indian Flying Fox Report & Images by Harish Sharma Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Northern India & the Himalayan Foothills Tour participants: Harish Sharma (tour leader) with three Naturetrek clients Introduction This January 2019, “Northern India and The Himalayan Foothills’ tour was again a great success with 338 species of birds, 20 species of mammals, four species of reptiles and some other wonderful wildlife and culture of Northern India. On this tour, we followed a superb classical itinerary that took us to a wide variety of habitats from rich wetlands to the freshwater rivers and the dry savanna woodlands to mixed countryside habitats, sal forest and the bird-filled Himalayan foothills. This Naturetrek tour has many highlights and among them were: 55 Indian Skimmers, Ibisbill, Wallcreeper, five species of Kingfishers including the Crested and Stork-billed Kingfisher, seven species of Owls including the Collared Owlet, Tawny Fish Owl and Dusky Eagle-Owl, many species of raptors including the Imperial, Booted. Indian and Greater Spotted Eagles, Crested Serpent Eagle (eating a serpent), Mountain Hawk-Eagle, five Species of Vultures including the Himalayan Griffon and critically endangered Indian Vulture, 10 species of woodpeckers including the Great Slaty and Rufous-bellied Woodpecker and many other rarities as Greater Painted Snipe, Black Bittern, Jungle (Grey) Nightjar, Slaty-backed and Spotted Forktails, Brown Dipper, Black- bellied Tern, Orange-headed, Long-billed and Chestnut Thrush, Orange-flanked Bluetail, Blue-bearded Bee- eater, Himalayan Shrike-Babbler (split from White-browed), Blue-winged Minla, Red-billed Leiothrix, Great Hornbill, Red-billed Blue Magpies, a magnificent pair of Sarus Cranes, Great White and Dalmatian Pelicans, Greater Flamingoes and the several species of Bulbuls, Flycatchers, Warblers, Laughingthrushes, Redstarts and Sunbirds. Among the mammals and reptiles, highlights of the tour were: Common Grey Mongoose, brilliant encounters with Gangetic Dolphin, Marsh Mugger and Gharial and the Bengal Fox (which was seen first time on this itinerary, on Chambal river boat trip), superb views of the Golden Jackals and sun-basking Indian Rock Python in Keoladeo, close encounter of Asian Wild Elephants, Nilgai, Sambar Deer, Nepal Grey Langur and several other species of deer and monkeys. However, perhaps the top highlight must be a brilliant sighting of a male Royal Bengal Tiger, resting in a dry stream in Corbett National park. We also enjoyed the Indian food, Masala Chai almost everyday, driving through the countryside villages and its people, temples and the holy river Ganges. This tour is truly more than just birds and undoubtably, it was another a great Naturetrek tour! Day 1 Friday 11th January The group travelled from the UK Day 2 Saturday 12th January Arrived New Delhi & in the afternoon visit Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary The international flight from London arrived on time at Indira Gandhi International Airport, New Delhi, where the Naturetrek guests were welcomed by the tour leader and walked to the parking area. After settling in the air- conditioned car, we drove for about eight minutes to the Hotel Novotel, Airocity. After doing early check in © Naturetrek August 19 1 Northern India & the Himalayan Foothills Tour Report formalities, we had enough time for a wash and change and a hot lunch before we headed to Sultanpur National Park (a bird Sanctuary) in the state of Haryana. It took about an hour to reach there. The weather was sunny and some of the highlights of Sultanpur bird Sanctuary were a Brooks’s Leaf Warbler, which is rarity of this place, Grey and Purple Heron, Painted and Black-necked Stork, Eurasian Hoopoe, White-tailed-Lapwing, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Glossy Ibis, Greater Flamingo, White-throated Kingfishers, Red Avadavat and Bluethroat. Sultanpur is the great place to start any birding tour of Northern India. We returned in the evening for over-night stay at the Hotel Novotel., New Delhi. Day 3 Sunday 13th January Drive to Bharatpur and afternoon visit Keoladeo National Park We checked out the hotel after breakfast and drove for five to six hours to Bharatpur in the state of Rajasthan. We made our first stop at the outskirt of Delhi to see Crested Lark perched on the electric wires, Black Drongos, Long-tailed Shrike, Black-winged Kite and the Rose-ringed Parakeets. Later on, we had great views of Indian Sarus Crane, feeding in a small wetland area, where we also saw Long-legged Buzzard, Indian Silverbill, Green Sandpiper, White-throated kingfisher, a mixed flock of Plain Martins, Barn Swallows and Wire-tailed Swallows, White and Citrine Wagtails with some other common birds. After driving three hours, we made a stop for tea/coffee; there we saw a Shikra perched on a tree and several Bank Mynas and Asian Pied Starlings on other trees. In Bharatpur, we stayed the Hotel Birders Inn, situated five minutes walking distance from the bird sanctuary. After a delicious hot lunch, we drove to the park gate and we hired cycle rickshaw to go bird watching in Keoladeo National Park. It was founded by the Maharajas of Bharatpur under the British Raj in late 18th century, who developed it for duck shooting. Known locally as Ghana, the bird sanctuary which was declared a National park in 1981 and was listed in the World Heritage Natural Site in 1985. The park attracts over 380 species of birds which migrate from Russia, Central Asia, Europe and Himalaya. Some of the good birds seen today were Spotted Owlet, Rufous Treepie, Black Drongo, Long-tailed Shrike, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Indian Robin, Southern Coucal, Brown-headed Barbet, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker, Western Marsh Harrier, Red- crested Pochard, Indian Spot-billed Duck and Purple Sunbird. We saw new mammals such as Asiatic Golden Jackal and the Spotted Deer. After spending a few hours’ good time, we returned to our hotel. Day 4 Monday 14th January Keoladeo National Park, Bharatpur Today we did morning and afternoon birding into the park by cycle rickshaw. It was little misty in the morning but got clear around 11am and then was very pleasant weather. In the morning, we did the nursery and the woodland area and had some great birds including the Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Spotted Owlet, Egyptian Vultures perched on the dead trees, Grey Francolins, Indian Grey Hornbill, Orange-headed Thrush, Tickell’s Thrush, Coppersmith Barbet, Grey Bush Chat, Citrine Wagtail, Indian Stone-curlew (Thick-knee) and Yellow- throated Sparrow (also known as Chestnut-shouldered Petronia). While we were searching for the Stone-curlew, we had a brilliant encounter with a big Indian Rock Python, sun-basking near the burrows. 2 © Naturetrek August 19 Northern India & the Himalayan Foothills Tour Report After a hot lunch, we did the main road towards Sapan Mori area and enjoyed the boat ride, which was a great experience, where we saw a Jungle (Grey) Nightjar roosting on a tree and mixed flocks of waterfowl. Other great birds seen today were Black Bittern, Knob-billed (Comb) Duck, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Bay-backed Shrike, Dusky Eagle-Owl, Indian and Greater Spotted Eagles, Imperial and Booted Eagles, Indian Cormorant, and Great White and Dalmatian Pelicans. We stayed overnight at Hotel Birders Inn. Day 5 Tuesday 15th January Bayana. Bund Baretha and Chambal river After hot breakfast, we left with a packed lunch for a full-day excursion to Bayana, Bund Baretha and Chambal river. Today we drove through the countryside, with villages, all the fields were full of yellow flowers of mustard, dry terrain and some rocky areas. In the evening we had a boat ride in the Chambal river. Our first stop was near the railway line where we had brilliant views of Red Avadavat, Scaly-breasted Munias, Indian Silverbill, Plain and Ashy Prinias. Baya Weavers and Common Babblers were feeding on the tall reed grass. Later on, we approached the Bayana hills near the Bayana town and walked through a wonderful street to the nesting place of Indian Vultures, a critically endangered species of India. There we had some great views of Indian Vultures nesting on the cliffs and saw a dozen of them sun-basking on the top of the small hill. Some other good birds seen here including the Indian Chat, Common Kestrel, Plum-headed Parakeets, Dusky Crag Martin, Citrine and Grey Wagtail, Rufous-tailed Lark, Common Babbler, Yellow-eyed Babbler etc. Later we drove towards the Bund Baretha and had the masala tea/coffee break at the irrigation department inspection bungalow. There was a large roosting colony of Indian Flying Foxes (Fruit Bats) that roosts in the Mango and Ficus trees. After saying thanks to the Chaiwala, we were on the road again and had a wonderful sighting of an Asiatic Golden Jackal feasting on a carcass. In the same place we saw Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Desert and Variable Wheatears, Indian Bush Lark, and Great Grey Shrike. (The Grey Shrikes here used to be known as Southern Grey but are now included as Great Grey). Our packed lunches were eaten at a scenic and wonderful place called Talabshahi. Duck shoots were organized here by maharajas of Dholpur before 1971. While we were having our picnic lunch, we saw an Osprey catching a fish in front of us and also saw a River Tern and Dalmatian Pelicans. In the afternoon, we reached at the Chambal river or Gharial sanctuary there we had a boat trip which was absolutely amazing. We enjoyed 55 Indian Skimmers sun-basking near the Gharial, a Black-bellied Tern, Great Stone-curlew (Thick-knee), Kentish Plover, Blue Rock Thrush, and Spotted Owlet perched in a hole.