Ecuador April 2016 Trip Report
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Ecuador 14th - 24th April 2016 Andean Cock of the Rock is one of the New World’s best looking birds Tour Leader: Lisle Gwynn All photos in this report were taken by Lisle Gwynn Species depicted in photographs are named in BOLD RED www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 1! Introduction Ecuador is surely one of the best wildlife photography destinations on the planet. It offers endless excellent birds to photograph in a country that is now amply set-up for the travelling photographer. In almost every corner of the country there are plenty of lodges, ranches and reserves that offer feeders that attract stunning neotropical birds into perfect photographic range. This tour was a private custom tour organised with the key aim being to photograph as many species of hummingbird as possible, to use multi-flash techniques to create beautiful freeze-motion images of these fast-moving birds, and to photograph any other wildlife that was available along the way. We succeeded wildly in this regard and far exceeded the group’s previous record for number of species photographed with a final tally of 58 species of hummingbird seen, the vast majority of which were photographed well. Along the way we also shot a wide variety of beautiful tanagers, honeycreepers, jays, woodpeckers, parrots and macaws, woodcreepers, flowerpiercers, redstarts and saltators, as well as the highlight of the tour - a Spectacled Bear. During this 10 day tour we covered both the west and east slopes of the Andes, visiting three superb lodges and multiple other locations, staying in excellent accommodation, enjoying great local food and enjoying this safe and accessible neotropical gem amid the towering Andes. PART I: THE WESTERN ANDEAN SLOPE Our time in the stunning Andean country of Ecuador began with 5 days on the western slope of the Andes based out of the very comfortable Tandayapa Bird Lodge. The beauty of an extended stay at Tandayapa is the access it gives to a variety of elevations and habitat types within easy and short striking distance, as well as being one of the very best lodges in the world not only for neotropical birds in general, but especially for hummingbirds. Many times I have sat on the deck here and before I’ve finished a single cup of fantastic coffee I have counted 15+ species of hummingbird, often with many individuals - truly impressive. We spent a lot of time around the lodge and within the scenic Tandayapa Valley as it offers great shooting opportunities right on the doorstep, and also because the trip was primarily geared towards photographing hummingbirds. Of course one of the most novel photography techniques developed in recent times as far as wildlife goes is the use of multiple flashes to secure ‘frozen’ images of hummingbirds with no wing movement. When done correctly it can be truly incredible, and so we spent at least half of each day at Tandayapa shooting hummingbirds with this technique, achieving fantastic results as we went. Hummingbirds photographed here included: Booted Racket-tail, Buff-tailed Coronet, Violet-tailed Sylph, Purple-throated Woodstar, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, White-necked Jacobin, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Brown Inca, Tawny-bellied Hermit, Fawn- breasted Brilliant, Green-crowned Brilliant, Sparkling Violetear, Green Violetear, Brown Violetear, Andean Emerald, Western Emerald and Velvet- purple Coronet. The feeders at the lodge are also often fantastic and on this occasion we were able to photograph, at close range, a variety of forest birds like Red-headed Barbet, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Masked Trogon, Rufous Motmot, Blue-gray, Flame-faced, Golden, Lemon-rumped, Metallic-green and Silver-throated Tanagers. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 2! Crimson-rumped Toucanet at Tandayapa Bird Lodge Lemon-rumped Tanager www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 3! Further afield we visited a couple of other great shooting locations nearby. The lower-elevation Rio Suamox area offers a little known ranch with some great feeder set-ups and on this day we teamed it with the Mirador Rio Blanco restaurant which also has some fantastic feeders to make for a brilliant day. We shot to our hearts’ content from early morning until dusk, scoring excellent images of a wide variety of birds including Black and Turkey Vultures, Swallow-tailed Kite, Roadside Hawk, Scaled Pigeon, Ruddy Pigeon, Rufous Motmot, Black- cheeked Woodpecker, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Pacific Parrotlet, Red-billed Parrot, Great Antshrike, Spotted Woodcreeper, Red-billed Scythebill, Ornate Flycatcher, Social Flycatcher, Snowy-throated and Tropical Kingbirds, One- coloured Becard, Ecuadorian Thrush, Buff-rumped Warbler, Orange-crowned and Thick-billed Euphonias, and a bevy of tanagers that included Lemon-rumped, Blue- gray, Palm, Blue-capped, Fawn-breasted, Blue-necked, Rufous-throated, Bay- headed, Golden, Flame-faced, Swallow and other gems like Scarlet-thighed Dacnis and both Green and Purple Honeycreepers. Blue-necked Tanager is almost incomparable in its beauty www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 4! Rufous-throated Tanager Golden-olive Woodpecker at Samoa www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 5! Bananaquit at Tandayapa Bird Lodge One of the highlights of both birding and photography trips to the north-western corner of Ecuador is a visit to Paz de Las Aves, a ranch famous for its habituated antpittas and other birds. We left the lodge early to arrive before dawn for a special shoot, making our way in the dark along a short trail to a spacious blind. Here we were greeted by a series of loud and close ghostly warbles and gargles. Soon, through the dim morning, we spotted the ephemeral glow of a male Andean Cock of the Rock. Before long we were getting great opportunities to photograph these iconic denizens of the cloudforest. Once we had had our fill of these bright orange stunners it was time to meet some of the ‘tame’ residents - first up was a family of Dark-backed Wood Quail that followed us along the trail for a way, but it was our first encounter with the previously unknown and practically mythical Giant Antpitta. This was the first of 5 species we photographed this morning, with great opportunities for Moustached, Ochre-breasted, Yellow-breasted and Scaled Antpitta. One of the other star residents here is a very cute, very tame and very photographable Rufous-breasted Antthrush named ‘papito’, but by mid- morning it was the superb breakfast empanadas, amazing coffee and feeders covered in Velvet- purple Coronets that had stolen our attention. The clapping and goose-honking of Toucan Barbets had us quickly dashing to the fruit feeders for shots of this bizarre Choco endemic. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 6! Velvet-purple Coronet at Paz de Las Aves www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 7! Rufous-breasted Antthrush Rufous Motmot www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 8! Giant Antpitta www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 9! PART 2: THE HIGH ANDES AND EASTERN ANDEAN SLOPE The second part of this Ecuadorian epic took us to the eastern half of the country, climbing high over the Papallacta Pass and the high Andes as we went. Our next base was the lovely and much cooler Guango lodge where we enjoyed a refreshing temperature change and even some light rain. Here we split our time between shooting around the lodge and making an excursion up to the high lands. The shooting around the lodge was particularly productive with many different species presenting themselves for photos including Turquoise and Inca Jays, Sickle-winged Guan, Spectacled Whitestart, Masked and Glossy Flowerpiercers, Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan, Andean Motmot, Mountain Cacique and the beautiful Torrent Duck. Of course the hummingbirds stole the show and we added multiple species to our already- burgeoning list including Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Mountain Velvetbreast, Collared Inca, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Tourmaline Sunangel, Glowing Puffleg, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, Tyrian Metaltail, Mountain Avocetbill, Long-tailed Sylph, White-bellied Woodstar, Speckled Hummingbird and the iconic Sword- billed Hummingbird. White-bellied Woodstar www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page !10 Red-headed Barbet www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page 11! The iconic Sword-billed Hummingbird www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page !12 Chestnut-breasted Coronet An excursion up to the top of the Papallacta Pass provided us with further opportunities with Stout-billed and Chestnut-winged Cinclodes, Tawny Antpitta, Plumbeous Mountain Finch, Variable Hawk and a brief Andean Condor, but it was a mammal that really stole the show here. We were incredibly lucky to encounter a phenomenal Spectacled Bear as we made our way along an old track along the mountainside, shocking all of us and sending the cameras into overdrive. Some great shots were obtained before we left for the lodge to tell those that hadn’t joined us of our luck. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Page !13 After a scenic drive eastward downslope toward the Amazon we arrived at our third and final lodge of the tour - Wild Sumaco. Here we were afforded a whole new set of birds, often enjoyed from the scenic panoramic deck that skirts the lodge main building.