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20 EDITOR’S LETTER 24 CONTRIBUTORS 26 COLUMNISTS on Power 29 ThE wSj. fIvE The five hottest items from the runway. 104 STILL LIfE john Baldessari The conceptual artist shares a few of his favorite things. Photography by Mark Mahaney
What’s News.
37 Chef Simon Rogan Shakes Up Claridge’s
40 A Tech Boost Brings Infusion of Cool to Palo Alto Thom Browne’s New Traditionalist Suiting This Spring’s Breakout Literary Stars
41 Public Art Thrives in Detroit A New Service Makes Booking Private Jets a Breeze Christian Stroble Launches a Line of Bags for Men
42 How Ali Banisadr’s Canvases Interpret Sound
44 Middle Eastern Oud Inspires Fragrance Collection Hair Products Take Cues From Skin Care Jonathan Adler Designs Line for Toms Shoes
45 The Welsh Whisky Renaissance Giant Observation Wheels Get Even Bigger
Market report.
47 SPRINg BREakERS From the perfect two-tone loafer to a diving watch, these pieces will keep any player in the game. Photography by Jarren Vink Styling by Megan Terry
on the cover Wes Anderson photographed by Angelo Pennetta. thIS PAGe Photography by Nathaniel Goldberg and styled by Tom Van Dorpe. Jil Sander shirt, Gucci jacket and pants, 62 Tom Ford tie, John Lobb loafers and Louis Vuitton bag. For details see Sources, page 102.
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92 the exchange. men’s style issue.
53 TRACKED: Daisuke Nakazawa 62 PACIFIC STANDARD 86 CHECK MATES At Sushi Nakazawa, a centuries-old The new point of view on suiting is Win a tournament in any one of these cuisine gets a New York City twist. that elegance means ease—and ties dramatic pieces, from onyx cuff links By Alex French are no longer required. to gold watches. Photography by Thomas Giddings Photography by Nathaniel Goldberg Photography by Thomas Lagrange Styling by Tom Van Dorpe Styling by David Farber 56 RULE BRITANNIA Foreign buyers are revitalizing 72 THE LIFE AESTHETIC 92 LIGHT IN THE PIAZZA Northampton’s historic shoe trade. With The Grand Budapest Hotel, Yoox founder Federico Marchetti By Laura Dixon film director Wes Anderson summons found, in Milan, the perfect home for Photography by Rob Stothard another richly imagined world. his family and art collection. By Howie Kahn By Christina Passariello 58 BOOK SMARTS Photography by Angelo Pennetta Photography by Matteo Imbriani Chris Parris-Lamb scores big contracts for authors of all stripes. 76 BLUE IS THE WARMEST 96 THE ART OF SNOWDON By Lucas Wittmann COLOR Antony Armstrong-Jones’s way with Watercolor sketches give fresh depth a camera made him Britain’s top to the indigo tones in this spring’s portrait photographer. shirts, sweaters and suits. By Patrick Kinmonth Illustrations by Mats Gustafson Photography by David Bailey
82 CROSSOVER ARTIST Designer Haider Ackermann elevates his romantic bohemianism to another Clockwise from top left: Colombian designer level with a new men’s line. Haider Ackermann; artist John Baldessari in By William Van Meter his studio in Venice, California; Yoox founder
Photography by Ezra Petronio Federico Marchetti’s dining room in Milan. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EZRA PETRONIO; MARK MAHANEY; MATTEO IMBRIANI rtier Ca 4
editor’s letter 01 ©2 FOR THE WIN
ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS
MATCHING WITS Dressed in Versace for an evening game of chess, Anubis and Bast face off as Who watches.
HILE TRENDS COME and go, men’s finest jewelry. Meanwhile, our feature on the resur- castle. On the hunt for more space for his growing fashion tends to celebrate tradition. gence of England’s centuries-old cobbling industry family, the Yoox founder purchased the 2,700-square- The way the past informs the pres- demonstrates how modern tastes are increasingly foot flat from an elderly couple who had lived there ent is a recurring theme in our Men’s gravitating toward the refined techniques and wis- for decades. When Marchetti threw a housewarm- WStyle issue, beginning with our cover star, director dom that only heritage brands can boast. ing party, he invited the two seniors, who came and Wes Anderson. His eighth feature film, The Grand Former British Vogue arts editor Patrick Kinmonth danced the night away: a perfect way to celebrate the Budapest Hotel, out this month, uses an obsessively pens a tribute to 84-year-old Antony Armstrong- past while embracing the future. detailed 1920s-era hotel in an imaginary European Jones, aka Lord Snowdon, one of Britain’s most calibre de cartier chronograph country as a springboard for his singular vision as an renowned portrait photographers. Just as Snowdon’s MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904-CH MC auteur, carried out by a brilliant ensemble cast. images capture his subjects—whether a queen or If you experience déjà vu flipping through our a heavyweight boxing champion—with uncanny the calibre de cartier chronograph watch combines the power of its design with a cartier fashion story “Check Mates,” it’s no coincidence. The insight, his oeuvre is a testament to his painstaking fine watchmaking movement, the 1904-ch mc. fitted with a double barrel and a column wheel, shoot references the famous chess duel between Steve search for visual candor, an inspiration to us all. Kristina O’Neill it guarantees exceptional timekeeping. established in 1847, cartier creates exceptional watches McQueen and Faye Dunaway in The Thomas Crown We take you inside Federico Marchetti’s Milan home, [email protected] Affair, lending a subdued ’60s cool to the season’s a soaring apartment with views of a 15th-century Instagram: kristina_oneill that combine daring design and watchmaking savoir-faire.
20 wsj. magazine explore and shop www.cartier.us - 1-800-cartier Editor in ChiEf Kristina O’Neill
CrEativE dirECtor Magnus Berger
ExECutivE Editor Chris Knutsen
Managing Editor Brekke Fletcher publishEr Anthony Cenname global advErtising dirECtor Stephanie Arnold fashion nEws/fEaturEs dirECtor Elisa Lipsky-Karasz businEss ManagEr Julie Checketts Andris brand dirECtor Jillian Maxwell dEsign dirECtor Pierre Tardif Coordinator Molly Dahl
photography dirECtor Jennifer Pastore ExECutivE ChairMan, nEws Corp Rupert Murdoch ChiEf ExECutivE, nEws Corp Robert Thomson sEnior Editor Megan Conway ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr, dow JonEs & CoMpany William Lewis Editor in ChiEf, thE wall strEEt Journal Gerard Baker MEn’s stylE dirECtor David Farber sEnior dEputy Managing Editor, thE wall strEEt Journal Michael W. Miller fashion MarkEt/aCCEssoriEs dirECtor David Thielebeule Editorial dirECtor, wsJ. wEEkEnd Ruth Altchek
MEn’s stylE Editor Tasha Green ChiEf rEvEnuE offiCEr, thE wall strEEt Journal Trevor Fellows MarkEt Editor Preetma Singh vp global MarkEting Nina Lawrence hEad of digital advErtising and intEgration art dirECtor Tanya Moskowitz Romy Newman vp stratEgy and opErations Evan Chadakoff photo Editor Damian Prado vp MultiMEdia salEs Christina Babbits, Elizabeth Brooks, Chris Collins, Ken DePaola, assoCiatE Editor Christopher Ross Etienne Katz, Mark Pope, Robert Welch vp vErtiCal MarkEts Marti Gallardo Copy ChiEf Minju Pak vp ad sErviCEs Paul Cousineau ExECutivE dirECtor MarkEting Paul Tsigrikes produCtion dirECtor Scott White ExECutivE dirECtor, wsJ CustoM studios Randa Stephan sEnior dirECtor, EvEnts Sara Shenasky rEsEarCh ChiEf John O’Connor sEnior ManagEr, EvEnts Katie Grossman CrEativE dirECtor Bret Hansen Junior dEsignEr Dina Ravvin priCing and stratEgy ManagEr Verdell Walker ad sErviCEs, MagazinEs ManagEr Elizabeth Bucceri assistant photo Editor Hope Brimelow ad sErviCEs burEau assoCiatE Laura Chernyavskiy
Editorial assistant Raveena Parmar dirECtor of CorporatE CoMMuniCations Colleen Schwartz CorporatE CoMMuniCations ManagEr Arianna Imperato fashion assistants Katie Quinn Murphy, Sam Pape
wEb Editors Robin Kawakami, Seunghee Suh
Contributing Editors Alexa Brazilian, Michael Clerizo, WSJ. Issue 45, March 2014 Men’s Style, Copyright 2014, Kelly Crow, Celia Ellenberg, Jason Gay, Dow Jones and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction Jacqui Getty, Claire Howorth, Howie Kahn, Joshua Levine, in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. J.J. Martin, Sarah Medford, Meenal Mistry WSJ. Magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday Weekend Edition and on newsstands. WSJ. Magazine is not Contributing spECial proJECts dirECtor Andrea Oliveri available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, please call 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625), send email to [email protected], or write us at: 84 Second Avenue, spECial thanks Tenzin Wild Chicopee, MA 01020. For Advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800- 843-0008, email [email protected], or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com.
22 wsj. magazine
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BLUE IS THE WARMEST COLOR P. 76 This season, models marched down the menswear runways awash in shades of blue, providing inspiration for artist Mats Gustafson to depict standout pieces in bold flourishes of the hue. The Swedish artist began his career in the pages of British Vogue in the early ’80s, and has since done painterly interpretations of countless fashion brands, including Comme des Garçons and Dior. Working primarily in watercolors, Gustafson believes the old-world medium still has a place in the industry. “We are surrounded by so many images based on photography, illustrations are a nice complement,” he says. “I try to reduce a lot of details to get to the essence of an idea, and it leaves a lot for you to imagine yourself.” Gustafson’s work is showcased in a recent anthology, Watercolors, which highlights his work in fashion—including art for Yohji Yamamoto, in Silhouette (top right) and Dress (bottom left)—as well as his renderings from nature, such as Deer (top left). —Raveena Parmar
EZRA PETRONIO WILLIAM VAN METER CHRISTINA PASSARIELLO DAVID FARBER PATRICK KINMONTH Photographer Writer Writer Men’s Style Director, WSJ. Magazine Writer crossover artist p. 82 crossover artist p. 82 light in the piazza p. 92 check Mates p. 86 the art of snowden p. 96 tina tyrell (gustafson)
24 wsj. Magazine
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THE COLUMNISTS 800-457-TODS WSJ. asks six luminaries to weigh in on a single topic. This month: POWER.
KEVIN KIM GEORGE R.R. SARAH ROBB RYAN JUDY DURANT GORDON MARTIN O’HAGAN SEACREST SMITH
“Something that’s often “There are ways to “Power struggles seem “Power is an individual “As a broadcaster I have “In a crisis, not only is it overlooked in basket- create power onstage: to be omnipresent in concept. For me, it interviewed power- hard for powerful people ball is mental power. Multiple guitars give every field of human lies in the mind of the ful people. My mentor, to relinquish power, it A game is 50 percent a sense of power, endeavor, extending all beholder. When you Dick Clark, told me to can be hard for them to mental—mental tough- especially with the bass the way up and down are at the top of an learn something from trust. It’s critical for me ness. Going through coming underneath. society. We assume that organization, or in a everyone I spoke to, and to be able to walk into ups and downs during There’s a part in the power has a certain leadership position, it so I would listen and a situation and quickly a long season, you have [Sonic Youth] song reality. Apart from can be counterintui- would think, and time gain a person’s trust. to really set your mind ‘Shaking Hell’ when all comic books, where tive to ask for help. You after time I would come On a good day, I usually to have the power over the guitars were doing Superman has the power think everyone expects to the same conclusion: have all of an hour. everybody else—over one thing and then the to fly, the only power you to have all the They were powerful Your voice, your body opponents, fans, bad bass dropped down, real human beings have answers. But if you open because of their capacity language are critical to refs, tough games. You and it kind of pushed it is the power they think up and acknowledge to change lives for the communicating that in a gotta fight through that. to another level. With they have. You see that your limitations, you better. Over the years, crisis. Remaining calm When I was young, I was unfriendly audiences, sometimes in the col- bring others into your I’d been to children’s is key. Not only do I have always the skinny kid mostly we just ignored lapse of a society. Why circle. They want you hospitals and visited to gain someone’s trust, and got pushed around them. I didn’t need to did the Soviet Union to win because they’ve with patients and their I’m also taking them a lot, and my mental see them giving me the fall? Because one day helped you. That in and parents and had spent down a path that they’re toughness goes back to finger again. In fact, it the Kremlin gave orders of itself gives you power moments with them, generally not used to that. There are so many can be powerful to make and the soldiers said no, and confidence because laughed with them and going. Powerful people strong and athletic guys yourself vulnerable and the whole thing fell they are invested in always wished there are used to yes people, in this league, and at onstage. People respond apart. It’s a fundamen- you. For our company, was more I could leave and I’m the complete the end of the day, there to that. Having the tal truth that I think what we do is a meta- behind, which eventu- opposite. I might be say- will always be someone audience responding to Gandhi and Martin phor for how we think ally led to creating a ing, ‘This is your fault.’ taller, someone stron- you, even just quietly Luther King Jr., hit on, about charging forward foundation with my It’s a total shocker. ger, somebody quicker. listening—that’s a that power depends on businesswise. It’s just parents and sister. All When it comes to power, Having that willpower powerful feeling. But the obedience of the like on the gym floor— I know about power there are people who and extra fight is what’s I also think about the less powerful. A leader having a willingness to comes from those chil- prefer to be feared going to set you apart. song ‘Out of My Mind’ by is powerful only when try a different exercise dren, who fight every and there are people On the court there’s Buffalo Springfield. It’s he says jump and people you haven’t done before. day, and from those par- who prefer to be loved. trash talk, you can hear about finding yourself jump. He has no actual Get out of your routine, ents, who need to know Sometimes the fear tac- fans trying to disre- in the world of being a power to make them do something you are their boys and girls are tic is the best way to go. spect you, but just being rock star, sitting in the jump. It’s their belief not comfortable with. OK, and that together But the more effective quiet, never being too back of a limo. You think that he has power. It’s Sometimes breaking they have a chance. In use of power is the kind high or too low, is the you’re supposed to feel an illusion, a shadow on yourself to make your- short, what I know about that happens behind the most powerful place to powerful, but you just the wall. And sometimes self is important. You power is it comes from scenes. And perhaps it’s be in a game.” feel alienated. It’s about people stop jumping, have to take those steps one place: giving.” a combo.” how power is not what and then the world to get to the next level.” you think—you feel changes.” very alone.” Smith is the founder and presi- dent of the crisis management Durant plays small forward Gordon is one of the founding Martin is a novelist whose work firm Smith & Company and was for the Oklahoma City Thunder members of the band Sonic inspired the HBO series Game O’Hagan is the president of Seacrest is a television and the inspiration for the protago- in the NBA. Youth. of Thrones. Equinox Fitness. radio host and a producer. nist of the ABC show Scandal.
26 wsj. magazine necessities the wsj. five march 2014
ABOVE AND BEYOND Take off with a new look for spring by choosing the season’s best: five pieces that offer an adventurous twist on the essentials.
photography by anthony cotsifas set design by michael reynolds
1. the prada bag Broaden your horizons with a leather weekender in a recreational print.
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2. the ermenegildo zegna scarf Tie one on—specifically a couture one—in a classic print.
berluti.com
Jeremy Irons, initiated by Peter Sellers
MADISON AVENUE, NEW YORK - BERGDORF GOODMAN, NEW YORK 30 wsj. magazine MIAMI DESIGN DISTRICT, MIAMI- SOUTH COAST PLAZA, COSTA MESA
0314B_WSJ_THEWSJ5_01.indd 30 2/4/14 3:04 PM 02042014141003 the wsj. five
3. the bottega veneta loafer Count down to summer in beautiful slip-ons.
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4. the rolex watch We perfect each part of this watch by hand. It’s high time to slip on a Cosmograph Daytona in waterproof platinum. Even the ones that you can’t see.
Although you will probably never actually see most of the lavishly finished parts are concealed. Fortunately, the levers, wheels, and springs in the Lange 1 calibre, Lange’s sapphire-crystal back reveals the fascinating interaction master watchmakers meticulously perfect them by hand. of quite a few of them. Treat yourself to a close-up look. For Aficionados will appreciate the fact that not all of these instance at Wempe in New York. www.lange-soehne.com
wsj. magazine
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5. the dries van noten jacket Blaze a trail in printed cotton. For details see Sources, page 102.
34 wsj. magazine
0314B_WSJ_THEWSJ5_01.indd 34 2/4/14 3:04 PM 02042014141019 the world of culture & style what’s news. march 2014
london calling This spring, Simon Rogan will assume the role of head chef at Claridge’s, where he’ll bring organic ingredients—and a fresh new crowd—to the English institution.
BY alexandra wolfe photographY BY linda Brownlee
“It’s very slIck here,” says chef Simon Rogan as he looks around the tearoom at Claridge’s in London. Dressed in a tan polo shirt, faded jeans and a loose brown blazer, his casual pose and blunt manner contrast with the prim civility of the hotel’s clientele, decked out in Mayfair’s finest and nibbling dainty tea cakes. Best known for his two-Michelin-starred L’Enclume in England’s Lake District, in mid-April he will move into the five-star hotel as head chef, a role that belonged to Gordon Ramsay at his eponymous restaurant here for over a decade. The move will be a big one for Rogan, 46, who currently lives a few hours north of London in the quiet enclave of Cartmel, and who will not only replace Ramsay—the hotel decided not to renew his contract when it expired last year— and redesign the space, but also seek to change the restaurant’s atmosphere. Instead of traditional fare, Rogan’s new eatery—its name was still undecided at press time—will feature local, organic ingredients, sustainable cutlery and health-conscious food options like gluten-free bread. Service will be less formal, the decor an updated spin on Art Deco. He hopes these changes will bring a new crowd to the soon-to-open restaurant. “It’s not there for people with bags of money or people who want to be seen,” he says. Rogan’s populist turn is all the more intrigu- ing when one considers that Claridge’s is among the world’s most exclusive hotels. On any given day, one might glimpse Princess Beatrice or David Beckham in the lobby. During the 2005 Frieze Art Fair, a fire drill led to an impromptu champagne cocktail party on yes, chef Originally from Southampton, England, chef Simon Rogan—photographed above at the street attended by gallerists and fashion design- Claridge’s—made his name in northern England at his flagship restaurant, L’Enclume. ers—all in their bathrobes. Still, general manager >
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normal”—kept him drawn to the kitchen. At age 14, he took a job at an upscale Greek rest- aurant on nights and weekends, mostly so he could afford to buy clothes and records by bands like The Clash and Echo and the Bunnymen. “It was 24 pounds a week, which was an absolute fortune,” he remem- bers. “I was probably the highest-paid person in my year.” Rather than attending university, Rogan enrolled part time at Southampton Technical College, where he took cooking courses. “I suppose at the time it was more the money I liked rather than the cook- ing,” he says. Afterward, he worked at a hotel kitchen in New Forest and then for a series of restaurants in the south, where he was an apprentice for high- profile chefs such as Marco Pierre White and John Burton–Race. He later spent two years at the three- Michelin-starred Lucas Carton restaurant in Paris. Rogan opened L’Enclume in 2002 in part by default. He had wanted to open a restaurant closer to Southampton, but after a recruitment consultant con- tacted him about the Cartmel property and offered its lease at a discount, he agreed to relocate. But a year before he and his business partner, Penny Tapsell (who is also his romantic partner and the mother of fOOD fOR ALL Thomas Kochs thought the 158-year-old institution’s his son), arrived, foot and mouth disease broke out, from top: the food scene could do more to surprise. So he approached adding gravity to the already gray atmosphere. “It’s entrance of Claridge’s, founded in 1856; a Rogan, who’s made waves in England for his adventur- quite desolate up there and sometimes quite bleak,” dish of seawater-cured ous, modern British cooking style. “I yearned for the says Rogan. For the first few months, he says, “We Kentish mackerel, chance since the day Gordon announced he was quit- were asking, ‘What have we done?’ ” orache and broccoli; Rogan’s now-closed ting,” says Rogan. Rogan soon realized that the ingredients and fla- organic pop-up Ironically, through his extensive use of local ingre- vors that came out of the land up north were unlike restaurant, Roganic; dients, Rogan will modernize the restaurant by making those in any other place he’d worked. He eventually Steve Coogan, left, and Rob Brydon it even more English. At L’Enclume, in Cumbria, Rogan decided to eliminate all foreign goods from his menu dining at L’Enclume serves only local British ingredients, such as the herbs and focus on purifying each ingredient by bringing in the 2010 series sweet cicely and good king Henry. He refuses to use out its essence. Before, he says, “I was a chef full of The Trip. even lemon, instead replacing the non-native citrus testosterone: I wanted to cook what I wanted to cook, with vinegars made in his on-site research lab. At not what my customers wanted to eat,” he remem- Claridge’s, he will compose English ingredients in new bers. “That’s a stage most chefs go through at some ways, serving dishes like “grilled salad” smoked over point in their career, but you come full circle and you embers with Isle of Mull cheese; Hogweed shoots with become more of a businessman and more mature.” In “smoked yolk” and juniper cream; and dishes topped 2010, L’Enclume was featured in the BBC series The with apple and violet flowers. Trip, starring Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon as lightly Part Wylie Dufresne and part Willy Wonka, Rogan fictionalized versions of themselves on a tour of north- wants to give diners a glimpse of what goes on behind ern England’s best dining establishments. the scenes. As at L’Enclume—where there is no wall or While opening at Claridge’s won’t be the first door between dining room and kitchen—guests will time he’ll operate a restaurant in London—his pop- be able to tour the kitchen. up Roganic restaurant lasted in Marylebone for two As a self-declared “southern lad” from South- years—it will be his highest-profile job yet. At the ampton, England, Rogan says he never intended to same time, it will be the first time Rogan’s food won’t plant roots in the north. Now, he has a mini empire be the main attraction. “The hotel guest is coming to there, with two restaurants near his L’Enclume flag- the restaurant for the hotel, not for the restaurant, ding.
ship as well as two others in Manchester called the which is a new one,” he says. He even plans to relax L French and Mr. Cooper’s House & Garden. He grew up a few of the local food rules of L’Enclume. “This is watching his father work in the wholesale fruit mar- Claridge’s of Mayfair,” he says. “Should we be using kets serving freight and cruise ships, which brought the finest Italian white truffles? Maybe.” E’S; E’S; aLan S pa in produce from around the world. His father would Rogan is well aware that when it opens in April, all idg
bring home exotic offerings—star fruit, kiwis—that eyes will be on the restaurant; and he expects they’ll aR weren’t available in grocery stores at the time. Still, see a striking contrast to what was there before. “I CL
no one in the family knew what to do with them, remember walking into the kitchen here for the first y Of PAULSTUART.COM and they would be left in the refrigerator for Rogan time and thinking it’s very oppressive, very tradi- ES uRt
to ponder. “I just didn’t want to see them go in the tional,” he says. When he saw the first rendering of CO
bin,” he says. That curiosity, paired with a crush on his own space, he recalls, “It was quite an emotional p:
his home economics teacher—“there was a higher moment for me—I got quite a lump in my throat and m tO RO
percentage of boys in the home economics class than a tear in my eye.” f
38 wsj. magazine
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MARK THEIR neighborhood watch WORDS This season welcomes a PALO ALTO 2.0 batch of breakout authors who signal a bright future Spinning to techno music then speeding down the freeway in a brand-new Tesla to sip Brut rosé for book publishing. on a singles-packed pool deck has never been a routine associated with the sleepy suburb of Palo Alto, California. But in the last few years, the start-up boom and tech giants such as Facebook and Google have lured young talent here—and an area once known for coding has become cool. Below, where Burberry and Frette have replaced polar fleece and futons.—Alexandra Wolfe passion project breakthrough jets on AMERICAN detroit art city INNOVATIONS demand Rivka Galchen’s second Two years ago, Library Street Collective (LSC), a gallery in downtown Detroit, opened to give book—a series of playful, Later this month, anyone with irreverent short stories— top-tier street artists space to show off their studio work. “We wanted to have an impact outside our showcases her surrealist a smartphone or a computer imagination, while also brick and mortar space, too,” says Anthony Curis, 33, an LSC founder. “Then we heard about the Z.” riffing on canonical tales. Opened late last year and developed by Dan Gilbert, owner of the Cleveland Cavaliers and a native (and a few thousand dollars) Detroiter, the Z is a spiffy 10-story parking garage with room for retail space on the ground floor. While can hail a private jet as easily as it helps solve a parking problem, the gallery team thought its bare walls could also solve an art problem, booking an Uber car or bidding bringing much-needed color to the bankrupt city. LSC pitched their idea to Gilbert, and by December, on a vintage motorbike on eBay. 22 new works, mostly 130 feet by 14 feet, had been completed by 27 luminaries from nearly a dozen FlyJets is the brainchild of Jessica countries. Individually, the works by artists such as Saner, How and Nosm, Pose and Revok are feats of Fisher, the company’s CEO and urban narrative. Collectively, they make for one of the most impressive single-site collections of murals cofounder. “Our aim is to be THE STEADY RUNNING anywhere. “It puts Detroit’s public art scene up there with Paris, London and New York,” says partici- the go-to resource for travelers OF THE HOUR With this debut, Justin pating artist Tristan Eaton. Says Curis, “They originally had parking spots slated to go in front of the looking to fly private,” says Fisher. Go deploys the elements sal rodriguez (detroit art); courtesy of vendor (jet); by f. photographymartin ramin, styling by anne cardenas (stroble) murals, but now that everybody’s seen them, they’re not using the spots.” —Howie Kahn Users can bid on desired one- of a caper—an unclaimed fortune, an illicit affair—in way and round-trip flights or buy an assured literary thriller. one on the spot, as well as share itineraries with colleagues and friends. Howard Hughes would
1. Forget dorm decor: Entrepreneurs buy high-end bedding and linens at Frette 2. Blow-dry salon Drybar and spin studio SoulCycle (3.) are trendy new have approved. flyjets.com imports to the Stanford Shopping Center 4. Burberry is bringing high fashion to the city 5. Boutique hotel the Garden Court’s lobby lounge has helped enliven early-to-bed downtown 6. Two former Nobu chefs are behind sushi spot Jin Sho 7. Elon Musk’s Tesla sports cars zoom down El Camino Real 8. Venture capitalists mingle on the five-star hotelRosewood Sand Hill’s spacious pool deck.
ALL THE BIRDS, SINGING Evie Wyld’s sophomore novel is an atmospheric tale closet case about a young woman on a rugged island haunted as much by her past as by the GREAT LENGTHS thing (or person) killing her livestock. Perhaps even more astonishing than Thom Browne’s 2003 debut ready-to-wear collection of ankle-baring suits is the fact that his smartly abbreviated take on modern dressing caught on with the general public. Now, after a decade of promulgating his signature silhouette, the New York designer is debuting the Clothing Program: suits, shirts, coats and carry on ties in proportions that look bracingly traditional. According Designer, stylist and creative consultant his new, GARAGE ROCk THE LAND OF less- to the designer, it’s about “classic designs, made with classic murals on various floors christian Stroble has launched a line STEADY HABITS extreme of the z garage. from of slouchy-yet-sleek bags for men in line Ted Thompson’s elegiac menswear fabrics” —step twill, wool flannel, worsted wool— top: Untitled by hense; oversize versions of classic shapes, like yet bighearted take on Peace & Happiness by “with a classic American aesthetic.” Expect wider pants and the messenger bag in pebbled vegetable adult disillusionment browne’s tristan eaton; Vectorfunk tan leather with antique brass hardware, earns its comparisons to trademark hemlines that hit the shoe, as well as Browne’s usual expert by matt W. moore; and suburban bards such as shrunken suit dabs myla’s Stranded in shown above. stroblenewyork.com
Updike and Cheever. tailoring. thombrowne.com —Megan Conway ILLUSTRATION BY LENA CORWIN (PALO ALTO 2.0); FIRSTVIEW; ASH REYNOLDS (GREAT LENGTHS) the Jungle. For details see Sources, page 102.
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Queens. One afternoon in late winter, he talks about three large-scale paintings and several smaller com- positions arrayed in his orderly workspace. Dressed casually in a plaid button-down shirt, dark trousers and white Burberry sneakers, he is also sporting a bandage on his right hand—his painting hand. “I just moved into a new house in Brooklyn, and I was unpacking and exhausted and cut myself on a light
“there’s always a sound i hear with the movements of colors. KandinsKy had synesthesia. i thinK i may have a little, too.”
fixture,” he says. The injury seems especially unfor- tunate for an artist, but Banisadr is calm. He can still paint, he says, pointing to an 8-by-15-foot triptych— STROKES OF one of his biggest works to date—that’s included in GENIUS the Sperone Westwater show. “I’ll know it’s done Banisadr in his Long Island when it’s not asking me for anything else,” he says. City, Queens, According to gallerist Angela Westwater, what the studio in front of show’s paintings might ask of the viewer is to spend Fravashi (2013). some time looking at them: “Especially in the larger canvases, the details that from a distance seem very distinct and often figurative begin to dissolve into abstraction the closer you get,” she says. Depth and on displ ay flatness shift perpetually. Advancing figures are suddenly absorbed into the background, while what appear to be fluttering birds’ wings might suddenly AUDIO VISUAL look like snapping jaws. It’s as if a Hieronymous Bosch landscape were caught in a sudden, violent windstorm. Inspired by sounds—from Miles Davis to modem dial-ups—painter After the war in Iran ended, in 1988, the artist’s family made their way to San Diego, where 12-year- Ali Banisadr takes his dynamic large-scale canvases to Manhattan’s old Banisadr experienced culture shock. “In Iran the Sperone Westwater this month for his first solo show with the gallery. most popular kid was the smartest, but in Southern California, the smart ones were nerds,” he says. He adapted by becoming one of the cool kids, an attitude he BY MEGHAN DAILEY maintained when the family relocated north to the Bay THE WORLD IS YOUR STAGE. MAKE IT A MEMORABLE Area a few years later. Banisadr eventually got involved in San Francisco’s flourishing graffiti-art scene. “It was WHEN THE IRAN-IRAQ WAR broke out in 1980, 4-year- Museum in Madrid as a kid; or memories of bomb the golden age of graffiti,” he says. “I didn’t have a tag. PERFORMANCE. old Ali Banisadr and his family were living in Tehran. blasts in Tehran. I was doing characters and faces,” he says, adding that As his mother tells it, the artistically inclined It’s an approach that has served him well. In 2008, he was a big fan of Barry McGee, whose work appears The LS F SPORT. You open the door and the show begins as soon as you see the Banisadr began drawing nonstop as a way to make he had his first of two solo shows at Leslie Tonkonow both on the street and in galleries. At the same time, he hand-stitched, leather-trimmed interior; front sport seats; and aluminum accents. Then the sense of the air-raid sirens and crashes of explosions. gallery in Manhattan and, later, shows at Thaddaeus was taking psychology courses at a community college spotlight turns to performance, and the 19-inch forged alloy wheels1, Brembo® front brakes2, “The drawings were similar to my paintings,” he Ropac in Paris. In 2012, a painting of his landed the and drawing and painting at home. “I decided to go to driver-adjustable sport-tuned air suspension, and eight-speed transmission with race- says, “full of monsters and characters.” cover of Flash Art, and that same year he was included art school when I reached a point where I wanted more inspired paddle shifters begin to shine. The LS F SPORT. All of it together demands an encore. One need only look at his roiling, sensuous in a small exhibition of Persian painting at the on the canvas but I didn’t have the skills to take it fur- abstractions—on view through April 19 at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, which acquired a piece ther,” he says. “It wasn’t matching up with what I was Sperone Westwater gallery—to believe that he feels for its collection. (The Museum of Contemporary Art seeing in my head.” In 2000, Banisadr moved to New auditory sensations no less intensely today. “There’s in Los Angeles also features his work in its perma- York and attended the School of Visual Arts, earning always a sound I hear with the movements of the col- nent collection.) He then made the jump to Sperone a BFA there and an MFA at the New York Academy of ors,” says Banisadr, now 37 and living in New York. Westwater, becoming one of the youngest artists on Art. “And that’s when I decided to make work based on “Kandinsky had synesthesia. I think I may have a a roster that includes Bruce Nauman, Julian Schnabel sounds again, like when I was a kid.” little, too.” Whatever he may be thinking about— and Tom Sachs. “Listen to the work, accept the fact that it wants or listening to—might end up in a painting: Miles One noise that Banisadr is able to tune out is that to go a certain direction, and you can sort of dance #LexusLS Davis or Daft Punk shuffling on the iPod; AOL dial-up of the 7 subway train as it passes on elevated tracks together,” he says. “Once I learned the way to paint, it Options shown. static; the Velázquez portraits he saw at the Prado outside his studio building in Long Island City, helped me learn how to deal with life, too.” SANCHO FERNANDO 1.19-in performance tires are expected to experience greater tire wear than conventional tires. Tire life may be substantially less than 15,000miles, depending upon driving conditions. 2. High-friction brakes require periodic inspection and measurement as outlined in the Warranty and Services Guide. The pads and rotors are expected to experience greater wear than conventional brakes. Pad life may be less than 20,000 miles, and brake rotor life may be less than 50,000 miles depending on driving conditions.©2013 Lexus.
42 wsj. magazine what’s news
SKIN TO SCALP Spring hair launches look to the world of skin care for inspiration. From hydrating treatments to scalp-sloughing exfoliators, what’s good for your face is now good for your follicles. —C.E.
EXFOLIATOR DeeP & Light uKa scaLP cLeansing This big-in-Japan scalp clarifier lifts residue from the roots without causing flaking. The frothy, amino acid–rich formula penetrates pores, creating a base that’s primed for new growth. $36, peachandlily.com
each of these his-anD-hers fragrances costs REFRESHING MIST $250 bumbLe & bumbLe cityswePt finish This hybrid finishing spray sculpts like a styling wax the beauty of and softens like a cream, reviving dry midday hair while taming tresses so there’s less fluff and frizz, REGAL OUD more lived-in texture and natural-looking separation. An aromatic resin popular in the Middle East and Asia, oud has been edging westward $29, bumbleandbumble.com by virtue of luxury fragrance brands keen on proliferating its sweet, deep scent. Atkinsons, TONER the English fragrance and grooming house that was once the official perfumer to the KÉrastase immersion Pre-shamPoo nutritive royal court, is hoping to tap into the trend. Originally founded in 1799, the brand was rePLenisher resurrected by an Italian investment firm after its archive was unearthed in a dusty Applied to dry or slightly damp strands before warehouse in Parma. Relaunched last summer at Harrods in London with new takes on shampoo, this irisroot five of its original fragrances, Atkinsons is now available at beauty counters in Russia, extract–enriched prep attaches to the surface of Germany, Dubai, Singapore and New York. Also part of the relaunch were two new oud the hair shaft, quenching weakened fibers and scents: Oud Save the King (a woodsy eau that pairs the agarwood essence with an Earl increasing absorption. Gray tea accord, irisroot and leather) and Oud Save the $42, kerastase-usa.com Queen (it features the same tea blend spiked with orange DERMAL FILLER blossom and a blend of jasmine and clove). As a story Davines naturaLtech rePLumPing hair fiLLer sourced directly from the Atkinsons archive goes, the suPeractive Hollywood starlet Mabel Normand and the Egyptian Inspired by wrinkle- reducing injectables, this Prince Mohammed Ali Ibrahim arrived at the brand’s leave-in treatment imparts a concentrated dose of Old Bond Street atelier (shown left) in 1921 with a box of water-retaining hyaluronic rare Middle Eastern oud. Their request? Bespoke his- acid to brittle strands to help repair structural and-hers fragrances. barneys.com —Celia Ellenberg damage and boost elasticity. $39.50, davines.com
BARRIER CREAM Living Proof Perfect BEST FOOT FORWARD hair Day shamPoo This season, Toms expands its one-for-one The MIT scientist–backed OFPMA molecule claims charitable model—for every pair of shoes to create an impossibly bought, a pair is given to a child in need—by thin invisible shield teaming up with New York interior designer around every hair strand, Jonathan Adler for a collection of footwear repelling dirt and oil and protecting against and sunglasses that combines Adler’s environmental aggressors, signature vivid graphics with new silhouettes. so hair stays cleaner,
toms .com For details see Sources, page 102. longer. $24, livingproof.com F. MARTIN RAMIN (ATKINSONS); COURTESY OF ATKINSONS (ILLUSTRATION); COURTESY OF TOMS
44 wsj. magazine Classic Contemporary Home Furnishings Hudson bed $1599; Hudson dresser $1699; Pure Linea cowhide rug $2218; all items priced as shown.
roomandboard.com | 800.952.8455 libations wysgi in the jar
Scotland and Ireland may be renowned Due to increased demand, Penderyn is for their brown spirits—peaty Scotches and expanding the distillery this spring to triple smooth Irish whiskies—but rugged, windswept production. This year, it’s also releasing Wales also has a rich history of producing a limited-edition lines in its Icons of Wales series native booze, known as wysgi. Dating back with bottles that commemorate famous figures to the 4th century, whisky production in Wales from Welsh history, like the poet Dylan Thomas was laid low in the 1890s, thanks to the coun- and the signers of the American Declaration try’s aggressive temperance movement. But in of Independence with Welsh heritage, such as the early 2000s, Penderyn, a small artisanal Thomas Jefferson. Welsh producer, began reinvigorating the craft, Meanwhile, the Dá Mhìle distillery in and the fruits of its labor have lately been gar- Ceredigion is producing a spirit using organic nering attention. barley and Welsh water that will be available Nestled in the idyllic massifs of the Brecon in 2016. Celtic Spirit Company, located on the Beacons in South Wales, Penderyn makes island of Anglesey, makes a variation called whisky by employing a single pot with two “Wsygi Licor” that infuses whisky with herbs columns attached—as opposed to Ireland’s and rosehip syrup. Available throughout the traditional three-pot stills or Scotland’s two- United Kingdom and in limited distribution in pot stills—resulting in a clean distillation and a the States and online—Penderyn only allocates high alcohol-by-volume percentage. Penderyn’s 4,000 bottles to the U.S. each year, and Dá HIGH SpIRIt signature line, the Madeira Single Malt, with Mhìle regularly sells out—wysgi also provides EQUINOX Penderyn’s award- winning Madeira its aroma of toffee and long-lingering tropi- a perfectly good excuse for booking a trip to the Single Malt. cal fruit notes, won Best World Whisky at the Celtic country from which it comes. International Whisky Competition in 2013. —David Perry
monuments
agner HEigHt How tall can GOWs go? audacity behind “We don’t exactly know,” It’s not enough to just says Wil Armstrong, president go big. UNStudio’s nippon dEsign of Starneth, the firm that will
Phic by Drue w Moon (reportedly 800 Several wheels mimic build staten island’s (630 feet-plus)—designed for the wheel the London Eye, but the feet). Two limiting factors: an undisclosed location MADE ME ARUP-engineered High FAA restrictions and in Japan—will feature roller is a departure: It has guests’ bladders. digitally enhanced spherical cabins supported displays. by a tubelike rim, which lights the wheel’s
S (wheel); wheel gra visual weight. orbi S/c age
iM backErs S
ace GOWs aren’t cheap. P London’s cost $114 million;
er/S the singapore Flyer (541 P feet), $189 million. The High ar Roller’s costs are part of a $550 million Any day now, the High Roller giant observa- open-air mall. DO IT. tion wheel (GOW) will lumber to life, rotating twenty-eight 22-ton capsules 550 feet over the Las Vegas Strip for a trip that lasts about 30 minutes. Over 1,000 people at a time will take location in the view from the world’s tallest wheel—until Opened in 2000, the london Eye (443 feet) was an even larger one planned for the Staten Island intended to be temporary; its waterfront opens in 2016. Both will join similarly smashing success—partially due to a prime footprint
Phy by: F. Martin raMin (whiSkey); © John h super-size wheels in London (above), Nanchang on the south bank of the Thames—began the and Melbourne, with more on the way. So what’s GOW boom. hotogra
P it take to land one in your town? —Jesse Will equinox.com wsj. magazine
0314B_WSJ_News_7_02.indd 45 2/6/14 12:32 PM 02062014113355 fashion & design forecast MARKET REPORT. march 2014
spring breakers From the perfect updated loafer to a diving watch, these are the pieces that will keep any player in the game.
photography by Jarren Vink styling by Megan terry
penny arcade
Slip on the granddaddy of all loafers—tailor-made for springtime strolls, evening flights to Paris or office-casual—in varied leathers, with modern takes on the coin slot.
Top, from left: J. Crew, Ermenegildo Zegna, John Lobb. Middle, from left: Tommy Hilfiger, Fratelli Rossetti. Bottom, from left: Lanvin, Brunello Cucinelli.
Fashion Editor: Tasha Green KISS Photographed by Danny Clinch, Brooklyn NY 2014
OPENING ON MADISON AVENUE VIEW THE FILM AT JOHNVARVATOS.COM wsj. magazine 47
0314B_WSJ_MarketReport_02.indd 47 2/5/14 6:30 PM 02052014173223 market report
about time
Give your trusty leather-banded wrist- watch a break for a minute or two. A diver’s watch gets a sporty update in a modern case with a rubber strap.
Top, from left: Harry Winston, Breguet, Ulysse Nardin. Middle, from left: Girard- Perregaux, Bell & Ross. Bottom, from left: Officine Panerai, Cartier, Louis Vuitton.
in the trunk
Make a splash in graphic swim shorts, but don’t go overboard: This season’s best trunks come in restrained checks, standard stripes and charming small-scale patterns.
Top, from left: Paul Stuart, Tom Ford, Vilebrequin. Middle, from left: Brioni, Kent & Curwen, Brooks Brothers. Bottom, from left: Isaia, Louis Vuitton.
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shady Fellow
Lenses aren’t the only see-through feature of a great pair of sunglasses. Translucent frames in vintage styles prove their beach-worthiness in soft, contrasting tones.
Top, from left: Moscot, Dries Van Noten. Middle, from left: Oliver Peoples, Robert Marc, Emporio Armani. Bottom, from left: Dior Homme, Moncler, Gucci.
relaxed handling
Whatever goes in the trunk, the bin or the overhead rack sets the tone for the rest of the weekend. Show off easygoing style with a satchel in sleek crocodile or one in soft suede. • Top, from left: Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, Coach, Tod’s. Middle, from left: Ralph Lauren, Hermès. Bottom, from left: Burberry, Boss, Dolce & Gabbana.
For details see Sources, page 102.
50 wsj. magazine
0314B_WSJ_MarketReport_02.indd 50 2/5/14 6:31 PM 0314B_WSJ_MarketReport_02.indd 51 2/5/14 6:31 PM 02052014173224 02052014173224 leading the conversation the exchange. march 2014
ROLL CALL Nakazawa in the kitchen before the day’s prep begins.
tracked DA I S U K E NA K A Z AWA At Sushi Nakazawa, a disciple of Japan’s most revered sushi chef applies his perfectionism to a centuries-old cuisine—served up with a New York twist.
BY ALEX FRENCH PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS GIDDINGS
VERY DAY BETWEEN the hours of 11:30 a.m. American audiences might recognize Nakazawa fearsome and orthodox mentor, Ono, in subtle but and 5 p.m. in a West Village basement, sushi from the meditative 2011 documentary Jiro Dreams significant ways. He’s tweaked the Edo canon to suit chef Daisuke Nakazawa, 35, and his staff labor of Sushi, which portrayed Japan’s Sukiyabashi the Big Apple’s more aggressive palate for an end in almost complete silence. No music plays, Jiro—considered the best sushi restaurant in the result that he terms “New York-mae”: smoking skip- Eno phones ring, few words are spoken. Monastically world—where Nakazawa trained under the perfec- jack over hay; accentuating wriggling Maine scallops absorbed in the work of breaking down the day’s fresh tionistic chef Jiro Ono for 11 years. Bronx restaurateur with a tangy yuzu pepper paste; and topping trigger- ingredients—cracking open sea urchins with pliers, Alessandro Borgognone was so affected after viewing fish with its own liver. While stoic and focused in the skinning a live octopus on a gleaming prep table— the movie that he reached out to Nakazawa (who was kitchen, Nakazawa can be smilingly goofy behind the the Sushi Nakazawa kitchen crew prepares to serve then a line cook in Seattle) on Facebook and pitched counter during service—he’s been known to photo- the restaurant’s 20-course omakase menu, which has the idea of installing him in his own restaurant in bomb pictures with a menacing mien and a knife become one of the most coveted meals in New York New York. Nine months later, in a former hair salon, raised above his head. Though Ono, his octogenarian City. Since it opened in August 2013, critics have touted Nakazawa began introducing his unique brand of the teacher, has not yet retired, Nakazawa is proving him- Sushi Nakazawa as one of the city’s best sushi restau- two-century-old Edo style of sushi to New York. self to be a worthy if somewhat creatively liberated rants—no small feat in a town that’s home to revered As the apprentice has become a master, Nakazawa successor, infusing his Jedi-level training in the roll temples such as Masa and Ichimura at Brushstroke. has departed from the path set by his occasionally ancient craft with a buzzy Gotham energy. >
wsj. magazine 53 the exchange tracked
11:28 a.m. 5 Arrives at restaurant temperatures Chef Nakazawa commutes into the at which the restaurant serves fish: cold, city from Englewood, New Jersey, cool, room temperature, warm, hot. in a silver Nissan Altima. Today Temperature is essential as it affects he brings in a box of smoked bonito. the flavor of the fish. INTEREST RATES SET TO SOAR
12:01 a.m. The hour at which tables at Sushi Nakazawa become completely booked. Its reservations site opens every day at midnight.
12:45 p.m. Before cooking 8 his famous tamago—a salty, sweet egg custard—he checks the pan’s p.m. pounds temp by holding it near his face. 12:06 Amount of shrimp the restaurant uses daily. Dons chef’s whites Nakazawa likes to let live ones wriggle after inspecting the day’s and jump in front of customers before shipment of sea urchins, geo- beheading them and serving them on rice. duck clams, scallops and fish.
1:40 p.m. 200 A 400-pound attempts bluefin tuna, caught in Nakazawa made at perfecting the North Carolina waters, delicate egg custard tamago before it met arrives at Nakazawa’s prep with Ono’s approval. When it finally did, table. The crew breaks it Nakazawa cried. down into fatty, medium- fatty and lean pieces. 4 children Nakazawa has with his wife, whom he married when he was 23: Yuki, 11; Taiki, 7; 7:14 p.m. Saki, 4; and Koki, 2. Holding court behind the counter, cupping handfuls of rice and fish for a captive audience of diners. 120 minutes The time it takes to consume the 20-course omakase meal at Sushi Nakazawa. The price for eating at the chef’s counter is $150. 3 prep chefs: Keen, Yoichi and Roman. Their résumés include top sushi restaurants, such as Sushi Yasuda and 15 East.
3:21 p.m. the ultimate matchmaking service Prep nearly finished, 6,700 Nakazawa ducks outside miles to grab a cup of coffee from Approximate distance between Milk & Cookies Bakery Sushi Nakazawa and Tokyo Bay, where Global Headquarters: 53 Davies Street . Mayfair . London . W1K 5JH . +44 (0)20 7290 9585 and to make a phone call. Nakazawa sources heirloom seaweed, shipped to the restaurant. • EuropE . ASiA . NortH AMEricA . SoutH AMEricA . AuStrALiA . AfricA www.grayandfarrar.com 54 wsj. magazine the exchange
when the ShOe FItS Clockwise from far left: The factory of Joseph Cheaney and Sons, which has been making shoes in Northamptonshire since 1886; a diagram showing the region’s signature Goodyear Welt; a cobbler holding a leather upper; contemporary takes on classic brogues by Nicholas Cooper for Stamp Shoes.
the shift rule britannia After decades of steady decline, the centuries-old shoemaking hub of Northampton is experiencing an economic revival thanks to an unlikely source: foreign buyers willing to pay top dollar for traditional English cobbling.
BY laura dixon photographY BY roB stothard
n warm days in Northampton, the many Even James Bond wore Northampton-made shoes, in trend favoring the artisanal and handmade. Northampton. Same if you are from Japan or America.” “i don’t think we do the plain black brogue, but we also do the beige shoe factories scattered across this town films from GoldenEye to Skyfall. Kottler first noticed the change at a Düsseldorf “Go around to any department store in Tokyo and people who live chestnut shoe, or one with denim,” Church says. in the East Midlands throw open their During the 1980s, however, production began trade fair about four years ago. “Suddenly, you you will see a plethora of shoes made in Northampton,” As he walks around the finishing room of the fac- windows and doors. You can hear radios to move overseas, and shoemaking jobs started to started seeing a resurgence in the interest in fine- says William Church of Joseph Cheaney and Sons. here understand: tory in Desborough, Northamptonshire, where a final Opumping, the steady thumping and clamping of disappear. The factories that once peppered the quality British products,” he says. “People were Tokyo is the company’s biggest foreign market. if you are italian stain is added to the soles of the shoes, or a burnish cobblers—and, in the air, smell the tang of leather. landscape were converted into apartment buildings, getting interested in stuff that’s made here.” Overall exports have gone from 15 percent in sales to and you like shoes, to the toes, he points to some of the company’s recent Inside, hand-dyed rolls of skins are slopped onto big as British retailers found they could sell shoes made “A lot of the shoe companies based on domes- 35 percent in four years; staffing levels have increased you’ve heard collaborations. “These are going to Japan,” he says wooden tables to be checked for minor imperfec- in China for less than those made 70 miles north of tic demand have closed,” says Roy Martyniak, sales 30 percent in the same time frame. Meanwhile, John of a brown Derby shoe made for Paul Smith. “These tions. Uppers and linings are punched and perfected, London. But recently, after decades of decline, things director at Northampton-based Tricker’s, which sup- Lobb’s most recent store openings were in Tokyo and of northampton.” are for Jeffery West.” Joseph Cheaney and Sons has the edges clamped with heavy-duty perforators. And have started to look up again. Orders are increas- plies shoes to the Prince of Wales—and where exports, Shanghai. Dr. Martens, another brand with a long –nicholas cooper also created an orange-label boot for Superdry, a as a last step, type and size are inked onto the leather ing and production is booming. Richard Kottler, the at 70 percent, are now said to be the “lifeblood” of the history in Northamptonshire, has brought back its shoe for AllSaints and, last fall, a collection with by hand, as has been done here for centuries. chief executive of the British Footwear Association, company. “What foreign buyers see is heritage, crafts- apprentice program and speaks of a “reawakening of another archetypal British brand currently undergo- The region Northamptonshire is home to some of is even talking of a “renaissance... they are all work- manship and individuality—not mass production,” he interest” in English-made products. ing something of a rebirth: Barbour. the biggest players in the men’s high-end designer ing flat out,” Kottler says of the brands that call says. “They understand and are prepared to pay for it.” Church can trace his family’s connection to “If a business is still here today, they know what market: Joseph Cheaney and Sons; Crockett & Northamptonshire home. As for what’s fueling this Northampton-made shoes can range from about $300 the trade back to his great-great grandfather, the its shelves stacked high with handcrafted boots. they are doing,” he says. “All the businesses that Jones; Hermès-owned John Lobb; and Prada-owned change, he puts it down to one thing: exports. for a classic brogue to $1,500 for a bespoke boot. founder of Church’s. Church left that company in (Northamptonshire’s signature when it comes to survived have been around for 100, 150 years, so Church’s, among others. With a ready supply of It is no small irony that the same compa - Recognizing the power of the “made in England” 2009, when he and his cousin decided to stage a shoemaking is the Goodyear Welt: While inconspic- there is no reason if they don’t stick to what they are skins and oak forests containing bark perfect for nies that survived the factory closures of the label stamped into the shoes, newcomers, too, are management buyout of Joseph Cheaney and Sons, uous in a finished shoe, this way of stitching a thin good at that they should not be around for the same tanning, the area first earned a reputation as a shoe Thatcher years have now found consumer demand opening for business. “I don’t think the Northampton a company that has been making shoes since 1886. strip of leather to the sole, midsole and the upper duration again.” hub in the Middle Ages. The Northampton Museum in places like China—where cheap production at brand will ever go away,” says Nicholas Cooper, one This, they decided, was an opportunity, a chance to has, for cobblers and buyers in the know, become In the factory shop outside, Barry Elliot, the store has evidence suggesting that King John—of Robin one time threatened this industry’s very core. such new arrival, whose bespoke creations at Stamp commit to quality and heritage—but also to welcome synonymous with high-quality footwear made in the manager, puts it another way: “This industry has Hood fame—ordered a pair of boots here in 1213; Markets as far away as South Korea, Japan and Shoes feature everything from African fish skin to innovation, giving designs “a bit of zip. region.) From traditional dress shoes with an orange known some bad times. But at the moment it’s good. Oliver Cromwell, the rebel republican, shod his army the Philippines are providing a lifeline for shoes stingray leather emblazoned with the Union Jack. “There are lots of things you can do with tweaks trim to tartan patches—“which sell more in Japan Men’s is still busy. We know all of our competitors are in town. By 1955, it was the center of England’s shoe made in Northampton, where craftsmanship and “I don’t think people who live here understand: If on a classic design to give a contemporary feel,” he than Scotland,” Church notes—these are traditional busy. We will keep our heads down and keep going,” industry, producing about 160 million pairs a year. long heritage have dovetailed with a global luxury you are Italian and you like shoes, you’ve heard of says from the company’s wood-paneled showroom, designs re-imagined for a more modern look. “Yes, he says. “Make hay while the sun shines.” •
56 wsj. magazine
0314B_WSJ_Cheaney_01.indd 56 2/5/14 5:33 PM 0314B_WSJ_Cheaney_01.indd 57 2/5/14 5:33 PM 02052014163429 02052014163430 the exchange
upstart predetermined number of slots,” says Parris-Lamb, “the most successful publishers have gone to a much more rational program to buy only the books they can BOOK SMARTS sell, whether that’s 19 or 26 books a season. There’s less good stuff around, and don’t you want to be Literary agent Chris Parris-Lamb scores big contracts for authors, focusing on the great stuff?” It takes only one offer to strike a deal, but when several editors are eager to whether they’re billionaire businessmen or debut novelists. buy the same book, frenzied bidding may ratchet up the price. “By the time something goes to auction, I BY lucas wittmann know the outcome will be a good one,” says Parris- Lamb. “It’s a little bittersweet for me, though. I tend to do business with people I know and like very much. Only one of them will get the book.” And he enjoys taking on books that he can relate to personally—“provocative, original novels,” he says, or things like Hard Work: A Life On and Off the Court, a best-selling memoir by Roy Williams (with Tim Crothers), the legendary basketball coach at the University of North Carolina (Parris-Lamb’s alma mater). His parents live in North Carolina, where his father is a doctor, retired from the Army, and his mother serves at the non-denominational church that she helped found. He says that being the son of a minister is part of what drew him to Matthew Vines’s God and the Gay Christian (out in May), a nonfiction title arguing that the Bible is not against homosexuality. Parris-Lamb takes running so “absurdly seri- ously” that he run-commutes between his Manhattan office and his home in Brooklyn, and will do both the Boston and New York marathons this year. When he’s not working, or bounding to and from it, there’s opera, fly-fishing and Grete, the pit bull he shares with his wife, Whitney Parris-Lamb, an interior designer at Aero Studios. (The couple created their hyphenate by joining her Parris with his Lamb.) He doesn’t let chatter about the decline of the book industry faze him—to the contrary, he sees ast fall, Chris Parris-lamb sold the Can Change the World, for more than half a million value where it wasn’t before. “The amount of read- rights to City on Fire—a 900-page debut dollars, and Parris-Lamb had a best seller in Grant ing material generated by the world in the digital novel set in 1970s New York City by 34-year- Wahl’s The Beckham Experiment: How the World’s age is, for the most part, inversely proportional to old Garth Risk Hallberg—at auction for Most Famous Athlete Tried to Conquer America. This the amount of time and thought went into writing L$2 million to Alfred A. Knopf. When the manuscript fall will see the publication of two big-idea nonfic- it,” say Parris-Lamb. “The experience that comes landed on editors’ desks, he’d already sold film rights tion books that Parris-Lamb sold for seven figures: from spending 10 or 20 solitary hours reading some- to producer Scott Rudin. Movie deals are usually billionaire entrepreneur Peter Thiel’s Zero to One: thing that took a solitary author years to create is struck following a book’s hype; for Hallberg’s to sell Notes on Start-Ups, or How to Build the Future; and not just irreplaceable; I believe it becomes more in reverse order is rare. Parris-Lamb was also the Dataclysm: Our Life in Numbers by Christian Rudder, unique and more valuable with each passing, media- agent for The Art of Fielding—Chad Harbach’s 2011 the founder of OkCupid. saturated day.” • debut novel about a college baseball shortstop that Despite these successes, Parris-Lamb tries not to drew comparisons to Bernard Malamud—which obsess over the size of authors’ advances, and instead fetched $650,000 from Little, Brown and Company focuses on their career stability. “My goal over the and has sold over half a million copies (and counting). long term is for a writer to have the complete free- The sale was sensational enough to warrant a major dom to write. They may not get there with the first feature in Vanity Fair that became its own Amazon book. I want to make sure that they get published so Graphy by f. martin ramin (books) single, “How a Book Is Born: The Making of The Art of well and have such a stable career that all they have Fielding.” Only three or four first novels a year land to focus on is their writing,” he says. advances anywhere close to these amounts. As far as Since 2007, which is most of his career, Parris- agents go, Parris-Lamb is among the book industry’s Lamb has been an agent with the Gernert Company, (portrait); photo best, and at 32, he is just getting started. home to heavy hitters such as Stewart O’Nan, Alice ii In addition to literary fiction, Parris-Lamb spe- McDermott and John Grisham—a fine atmosphere cializes in commercial nonfiction, where his track in which to explore his love of literary books with record is just as sparkly. Penguin Press bought sizable potential audiences. Not all of his deals are COVER StORy parris-Lamb’s clients run the Jane McGonigal’s gaming manifesto, Reality Is blockbusters, and he finds himself taking on only gamut of backgrounds, from game designer Jane mcGonigal
Broken: Why Games Make Us Better and How They a handful of new titles a year. “Instead of filling a to first-time novelist chad harbach. Victor G. Jeffreys NEW BR 03 GOLDEN HERITAGE COLLECTION Ø 42 MM · Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com 58 wsj. magazine
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L.A. STORY A belted wool trench looks well defined with a popped collar. Dior Homme wool trench coat, AMI pants and Hermès moccasins. 63 THE LOOKING GLASS Shoulder a sweater or wear a jacket over a pullover for a casual air. Bally merino sweater, Louis Vuitton shirt and pants and Prada sunglasses. Opposite: Z Zegna jacket and sweater.
0314B_WSJ_SingleMan_01.indd 64 2/4/14 3:08 PM 0314B_WSJ_SingleMan_01.indd 65 2/4/14 3:08 PM 02042014140944 02042014140945 BY THE BOOK One color in two hues looks polished and unfussy. Salvatore Ferragamo suit and vest 66 and Bally knit polo. SUITED FOR CHANGE Two or three pieces makes a clear statement. Bottega Veneta twill jacket and pants, cotton shirt and silk tie. Opposite: Berluti leather jacket and vest and Acne Studios turtleneck.
0314B_WSJ_SingleMan_01.indd 68 2/4/14 3:08 PM 0314B_WSJ_SingleMan_02.indd 69 2/6/14 11:35 AM 02042014140946 02062014103611 GARDEN STATE Pocket a win in tab-front trousers and a white tie. Gucci twill jacket and pants, Jil Sander shirt, Tom Ford tie and John Lobb loafers.
Model, Roch Barbot at Success Models; groomer, Mira Chai Hyde.
For details see Sources, page 102. 71 THE LIFE AESTHETIC With the release of his eighth feature film,The Grand Budapest Hotel, Wes Anderson takes another imaginative leap into a world of his own invention.
UESTS CAME BY funicular, ascending worlds. With each new film, Anderson, now 44, has into the foothills above the fictional honed a visual language all his own, refining his sig- BY HOWIE KAHN PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGELO PENNETTA European spa town of Nebelsbad in nature aesthetic in a way that enriches the emotional the imagined nation of Zubrowka. lives of his characters. To be sure, there’s repetition They were greeted—the rich, the old, across Anderson’s cinematic landscape—of behavior the insecure; the vain, the entitled and design—but the result is a richness few other film- Gand the needy—at the Grand Budapest Hotel by its makers have consistently delivered. From 1996’s Bottle heroic, mustachioed concierge, Gustave H, dressed Rocket, written with University of Texas classmate in a purple tailcoat, perpetually perfumed with L’Air Owen Wilson in their Austin apartment (Anderson de Panache. Inside, the floors were covered with grew up in Houston), to 1998’s Rushmore; from 2001’s custom Art Nouveau carpets. Vaulted staircases The Royal Tenenbaums to 2004’s The Life Aquatic led up toward magnificent panels of stained glass. With Steve Zissou; from 2007’s The Darjeeling Limited H instructed his staff to keep the hotel “spotless and to 2012’s luminous Moonrise Kingdom, Anderson’s glorified.” He deemed it “a great and noble house,” worlds now form their own galaxy. before having his porters and waiters consider 46 Obsessively curious—compensating, perhaps, stanzas of didactic, romantic poetry. for not living in the gilded era of Gustave H himself, This is hospitality Wes Anderson–style and it took between the World Wars—Anderson acquired as almost a decade to configure. The Grand Budapest much knowledge as possible about his concierge’s Hotel, Anderson’s eighth feature, out this month, world before he got to work designing it. Prompted began as a character sketch about a longtime friend. by postcard-like photographs he found in the Library “The main thing,” says Anderson by phone from of Congress’s Photochrom Print Collection, he set London’s Home House—not exactly a hotel but, off for Austria, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland rather, a private club with bedrooms upstairs and and Germany. “Before we went looking at all these the director’s base for a press day in Marylebone—“is old hotels, we looked at thousands of pictures— he knows everything. And he’s good with people. My landscapes and cityscapes,” says Anderson. “It was friend is not a concierge, but would have been the like having Google Earth for the Austro-Hungarian greatest concierge had he fallen into it—and if he’d Empire.” When Anderson’s own Grand Budapest been born about a century earlier. I don’t think con- Hotel needed a pastry program, he turned to inspi- cierges do quite the same things as they used to.” ration from the legendary Viennese bakery Demel. What they used to do—and, more importantly, what “They have sachertorte, and a friend told us it would AUTEUR, AUTEUR they’ve never done—is central to Grand Budapest, always be Billy Wilder’s first stop in Vienna. You have Wes Anderson, photographed at the entry point into yet another of Anderson’s fully to respect pastry from this era, so I thought we should Home House in formed, meticulously researched and wholly original do a Demel for our own little made-up country.” London, England.
72 73 0314B_WSJ_Coverstory_01.indd 74 02062014171159 people, a rare kind of people, ararekindof also very prepared, also veryprepared, considering other considering other “Wes has an almost “Wes hasanalmost courtesy. But he’s courtesy. Buthe’s old-W very specific.” orld –r traditional movie sets,” sets,” movie traditional alph Danish golf carts for for carts golf Danish says Anderson, who who Anderson, says the cast on location location on cast the “i don’t like things things like don’t “i deployed a fleet of afleet deployed that remind me of of me remind that W f REE f ay of ay of in g in iennes spi ermany. ermany. RiT RiT
2/6/14 6:10 PM 0314B_WSJ_Coverstory_01.indd 75 cLockWisE from top LEft: toucHstonE/tHE kobAL coLLEction; toucHstonE picturEs/tHE kobAL coLLEction/jAmEs HAmiLton; fox sEArcHLigHt/tHE kobAL coLLEction; courtEsy fox sEArcHLigHt; grEg WiLLiAms/©fox sEArcHLigHt, courtEsy EvErEtt coLLEction; toucHstonE picturEs/tHE kobAL coLLEction/pHiLippE AntonELLo Danish golf carts to drive around town in,” says says in,” town around drive to carts of golf bunch a Danish got “We location. film the from absent remained which vans, those point: in very Case specific.” prepared, very also he’s But rare courtesy. “a of says, kind he people,” other old-world considering almost of an way has “Wes future. the in again he’d troupe says love the to join part, for his Fiennes, since tography pho of director Anderson’s been has Yeoman Robert on Hugo with who illustrator Guinness, has a story credit He’s up made of actors. worked exclusively isn’t tribe cinematic his that out point to likes Anderson macy. inti their celebrate sets his families, of dysfunction makeup.” and in for hair go get just downstairs and rooms our in costume night, every together dinner eat hotel, the in same live all “We Fiennes. for says actors,” trailers no individual are “There H. Gustave into and comedy gravitas breathes who man the and film) the in appear whom of all Murray, Wilson, and Schwartzman Bill Jason include (regulars ensemble the to director’s newcomer a Fiennes, Ralph says closeness,” Anderson. says vans,” of out and in getting always where everyone’s sets, movie tional tradi- of much too me remind that things like don’t “I roof. one under all made) be to had objects other and Panache de L’Air of (bottles workshop and ment depart- art offices, production his house to ability its and lobby) hotel’s his become would (it siz- atrium its able both for Anderson to appealed Görlitzer building the 1912, vacated in Constructed the store. department discovered Warenhaus and Görlitz town of Saxon the in arrived he until own Budapest his Grand house properly would that structure a ing Though Anderson’s movies often highlight the the highlight often movies Anderson’s Though of atmosphere an creating at hard works “Wes ae sd, nesn a hvn tobe find- trouble having was Anderson aside, Cake rn Budapest Grand Bottle Rocket, Rocket, Bottle , since 2001. Cinematographer Cinematographer 2001. since , almost 20 years ago. ago. years 20 almost - - life and to Anderson’s actual one. actual to Anderson’s and life fictional H’s Gustave both to out calls temperament (1881–1942), Zweig whose Stefan writer Austrian the of work the script, the for inspiration early another of matter the there’s then And it more was That northern.” painting. Renaissance Italian an suggest wasn’t it to that trying were We Frick. is the at this Bronzino to a connected maybe that’s one another and Brueghel, like I elder. the or younger the it’s if know don’t I Holbein; Hans was And painters. reference Flemish “Our of kind Masters. Old on riff a triggers Younger, and in real Taylor—life by Michael the artist The Hoytl Van Johannes fictional the movie—by the for expressly made a painting Instead, of Americana. He’d aesthetics. never say regarding he’s undertones going for with neo-baroque questions to response pithy no There’s endlessly. vision cinematic his ing Anderson. “That’s how “That’s we did most of Anderson. traveling.” our never happened.” never think to trying me was scene that of have a been a Hitchcock might scene that especially, stuff, car cable “The he muses. movie,” of Hitchcock type a ’30s thing maybe and of type Lubitsch-esque a do to trying us “It’s more description. the at bristles director the though speed— and suspense both with caper blockbuster—a action Anderson Wes a to thing nearest the It’s perhaps conflicts.”) or relationships personalities, whole define of clothing or articles locations where “objects, Collection, Anderson of author and critic Seitz, Zoller Matt what achieves that direc costuming with this stylish, very for tor,all it’s typically (And, answers. of search in monastery Alpine an into high cars cable riding and adven escaped an imprisoned, post, his of with accused stripped murder, protagonist of its finds manners of film the heart, comedy A turer’s service. room and Fantastic Mr. Fox Fantastic Grand Budapest Hotel Budapest Grand The Life Aquatic With With Aquatic Life The clockwise from top top from clockwise left: Royal Tenenbaums Royal There’s more to more There’s nesn ol ct rfrne al a, footnot- day, all references cite could Anderson Darjeeling LimitedDarjeeling WEs’s WoRlds WoRlds WEs’s 02062014171215 Steve Zissou Steve Rushmore The ; The The ; The ; The The ; ; . Grand Budapest calls “material synecdoche,” synecdoche,” “material calls Approved withwarnings than reservations reservations than The Wes Wes The - - says. “I will say I’m interested in Japan.” Japan.” in interested I’m say will “I says. in. live world they the to with do has that something story, to but the there’s with and characters the do with something “There’s Festival. Film International the Italian coast. And And coast. Italian the off on a minesweeper filmed Worldscenes II–era War India. Anderson situation.”) that shot in me to meaningless becomes just “time says, for,” he there I’m long how know actually never “I stretches. onlong for abroad set stay gladly will and Paris in apartment an owns also Anderson though Juman home, York New writer call the Malouf, girlfriend, longtime his and tor direc (The immersion real and travel on much very Calcutta, Zurich, in Moscow. home and London from far himself found by who Zweig, the regularly exhibited of wanderlust kind has also He Fiennes. says be,” to of like part would never but was he world a for nostalgia unusual for subtitle apt autobi- his in ography, baths) thermal (titles, era European certain a of end the mourned Zweig Anderson, Like big the nose,” says actor.the right.”) that’s suppose “I and mustache (“The character. looked Fiennes’s even like and little a Paris in Rilke with out hung desk, writing Beethoven’s owned He force. moralist a and prior to submitting says submitting to print place,” prior final a that watch to up about hanging know before Anderson, to want I because production). during in Görlitz one discovered was (amazingly, bathhouse siècle de fin a inside from footage without completed “I’m not quite sure where the next one will be,” he will one next the where sure quite not “I’m The invented world of Wes Anderson depends depends Anderson Wes of world invented The dandy grandiloquent a both was Zweig H, Like “I tend to want to make a movie some place place some movie a make to want to tend “I h Dreln Limited Darjeeling The features features Zissou Steve With Aquatic Life The The World of Yesterday, of World The rn Budapest Grand rn Budapest Grand Grand Budapest Budapest Grand on a moving train in in train moving a on . “Wes has his own own his has “Wes . which would be an an be would which to the Berlin Berlin the to could not be be not could • 2/6/14 6:10 PM 75 - Blue Is the Warmest Color CASUAL FRIDAY Watercolors give fresh depth to the indigo tones in Simple suiting, open or shut, is the easy way. Hermès cotton jacket, spring’s strongest trend: royally dyed shirts, sweaters and suits. shirt, cotton and linen pants, and scarf. Opposite page: Missoni madras blazer and pants, cashmere ILLUSTRATIONS by MATS GUSTAFSON sweater, belt and shoes.
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0314B_WSJ_BlueBlack_01.indd 76 2/4/14 5:08 PM 0314B_WSJ_BlueBlack_01.indd 77 2/4/14 5:08 PM 02042014160911 02042014160911 CUTE AS A BUTTON Fasten in a double-breasted blazer or a shawl- neck cardigan. Canali linen and silk suit, shirt and handkerchief. Opposite page: Giorgio 78 Armani cardigan, pullover and pants.
0314B_WSJ_BlueBlack_01.indd 78 2/4/14 5:08 PM 0314B_WSJ_BlueBlack_01.indd 79 2/4/14 5:08 PM 02042014160911 02042014160927 TOTALLY MONOCHROMATIC Looking good is automatic in a single color. Dior Homme patchwork sweater, shirt and wool pants. Opposite page: Calvin Klein Collection bomber jacket and bonded cotton shirt, pants and boots. For details see Sources, page 62. 81 Crossover Artist After more than a decade of designing for women, Haider Ackermann is taking his flair for romantic bohemianism to another level with a new men’s line.
by William Van meter PHOtOGraPHy by eZra PetrOniO
t is noon on sunday in early January, and Haider Ackermann alter- nates between sipping coffee and Perrier in the library of the understated Pavillon de la Reine hotel in Place des Vosges—one of his favorite haunts in Paris, where he puts up his parents when they visit. The designer’s studio, around the corner from the hotel, is more of a creative pied-à-terre think tank than his Antwerp headquarters. “In Paris, I’m on my own with my Iassistant,” he says. “We talk about what I want to do and start drawing. Here is the cocoon. Then we go to Antwerp, and I translate my work to the team and make it real.” He spends half the week in France and the other half in Belgium. Ackermann is 42, with thick, curly black hair pomaded back, and tiny wire spectacles just covering his eyes. He wears a loose, blue plaid shirt and a silk polka-dotted scarf jauntily knotted around his neck. The look is rounded out with purple socks, pointy black shoes and drop-crotch gray trousers with green side-stripes (the pants are his own design). On one thumbnail is a smattering of chipped teal polish; the other is black. The outfit may sound extreme—grunge– meets–pirate–meets–marching band drummer—but he pulls it off. In fact, this free-for-all hopscotch through aesthetics is the foundation of his fashion, a mini ON THE LINE empire that is expanding with last year’s introduction of menswear. “I’m more nervous,” Although the once-underground it-designer has evolved into a major fashion says Ackermann of his new men’s collection. player—his clothes have become red-carpet staples of cerebral fashion-forward “Now we have shops, stars like Tilda Swinton—will he continue his slow-burn momentum to become a it needs to sell.” full-scale multi-category international brand? “I don’t think I’m searching for success,” he says. He’s had no problem stum- bling into it, but he admits there’s more at stake this go-round. “I’m more nervous,” he says of his sophomore men’s collection, which he’d show the following week.
82
0314B_WSJ_Ackerman_02.indd 82 2/5/14 6:48 PM 0314B_WSJ_Ackerman_02.indd 83 2/5/14 6:48 PM 02052014175011 02052014175011 0314B_WSJ_Ackerman_03.indd 84 “i thought i’d never make it. make never i’d thought “i out of school?” school?” of out make it after being kicked kicked being after it make how can an insecure introvert SILK ROAD j ROAD SILK acket, shirt, waistcoat, scarf and leather pants from a from pants leather and scarf waistcoat, shirt, acket, – haider ackermann haider
02062014164820 ckermann’s fall 2014 men’s collection. fall ckermann’s A If they stay in my mind, then it’s meant to be.” it’s meant then mind, my in stay they If them. remember to try and things absorb I pictures. take never “I says, he India,” in “Even subliminally. his work affect wanderings His go on road again.” Even the life. unstable an was to move I one and place want today,in too much I’m if it course of he “But memories,” says. beautiful have “I Algeria. and Chad childhood—Ethiopia, Ackermann’s during Africa in 20th the multiethnic. similarly is in arrondissement, Ménilmontant Paris, in neighborhood His family.” a were we believe people make to to fight people’s dreams.” people’s cultivating silk He’s it. of about dream silk made you but velvet, a or anything needs need Who don’t is. You luxury peignoir? true what is which necessity, beyond goes He sneakers?’ of pair a and It’s do nality. not we‘what to leave ratio himself He allows he formakes. what motive a “It’s world,”says. Jebb inner relation his with good ship a has “Haider beginning. the since shows Ackermann’s documenting been has friend, mysterious.” and sensual someone dressing of a image an conjure They like jacket. smoking a or look gown romanti- of pieces mood his a is cism—sometimes There artistic. and unique looks who man them—a wears who person the with as much as brand a with clothes his identify essarily nec- don’t “You says. Kalendarian level,” another to dressing bohemian takes menswear “His for there. out flair more even His is men to point. translated has women dressing Ackermann’s is, ever nor not, loves.” to and wants he what do only Barneys. will “He at menswear for president vice the executive Kalendarian, Tom says sculptor,” a or painter like a artist an includ- “He’s U.S. the countries, in Saks 20 and Barneys in ing sold being is It directors. outré more fashion retail from impressed also It away designers. European shy men’s often American that with magazines even hit, critical the-board It across- an was on silk. skimp he mauve, and doesn’t and fuchsia includes Byronesque palette The wanderlust. vagabond gypsy blends it with romance stores, in Now ready.” not Iwas go because it let I then And woman? Ackermann the behind man do the could is Who wondered, “I I says. he wanted,” I whatever and budget, a me gave “They pants. like pajama- silky and prints dizzying of barrage a was It en’s Uomo, designer) at a show Pitti trade in Florence. wom- guest special a (as looks presenting 2010, by in It’s sell. to needs more concrete.” it shops, have we Now freedom—you of it. do sense a just was there time first “The In Africa, he studied ballet and dreamed of of dreamed and ballet studied he Africa, In lived and was the a family father His cartographer, a Jebb, Katerina artist and photographer The that’s but practical, most the isn’t collection The 2014. spring until appear didn’t collection full A clothes men’s into foray brief a made Ackermann ckermann’s ckermann’s brother are Asian,” he says. “We had had “We says. he Asian,” are and brother sister “My infant. an as parents French by in adopted was he Born Colombia, his upbringing. to globe-trotting corresponds approach ders swagger and and swagger Cause a Without Rebel need fashion-without-bor : trousers, a sweater : trousers, - - - 2/6/14 5:47 PM 0314B_WSJ_Ackerman_02.indd 85 courtesyCOURTESY ofOF HAIDERhaider ACKERMANNackermann (RUNWAY);(runway); FILMfilm MAGICmagic (JACKSON);(jackson); WIREIMAGEwireimage (SWINTON);(swinton); MODEL,model, ANDERSanders BUDOLFSENBudolfsen ATat METROPOLITANmetropolitan MODELmodelsS (M(m MANAGEMENT).management). PREVIOUSprevious page:PAGE: forFOR detailsDETAILS seeSEE sources,SOURCES, pagePAGE 102. troubled waters. My mother told me the only thing thing the only the into me told mother myself My waters. troubled throwing into me pushed friends debut collection. his make to his him pushing with credits friends of He circle tight-knit work.” my about thinking Every was I hoping. day and was wishing “I period. fantasizing, the dreaming, of says wasn’t he I day,” mean every didn’t drawing “It discotheques. various at worked and Antwerp in stayed Ackermann school?” out of kicked being after a make career introvert cure I’d he it. thought never How “I says. inse- make an can some- graduating. to without leave asked had five.” Hewas I if school to go to thing to say. wanted If we had only to I do 10 silhouettes, I would do strange. was you had This to said. Antwerp, follow what teacher the and Holland In it. about wildness was there most were and we free, the Africa, not “In was admits. he “I student,” disciplined Arts. Fine of Academy Royal without drinking party or drugs, justwildest observing.” the to go I’d it. around thing every- and nightlife discovered “I says. shy,”he still was “I own. on At his out. 17, he tomoved Amsterdam standing for and assimilating both for means a was of escape.” dreaming always was I color. skin in my school to with Holland come to difficult was It myself. and wasn’t others the like be to tried I area. bourgeois a in Welived be. to wanted I person the wasn’t “I says. he silent,” was “I outsider. an like felt but English) and dark- only the boy.” only the was and person skinned and language the I speak tutus. didn’t and hair blonde with girls these of all were there and Holland, to went “I says. he feet,” bare and for in a T-shirt we passion were dancing Africa, “In waned. dance his where town, Dutch small a to cated relo- family his 11, was he When dancer. a becoming “I had a huge lack of confidence,” he says. “My “My says. he confidence,” of lack huge a had “I true,” coming not are dreams your all “Suddenly Antwerp’s at school fashion in enrolled he 22, At it he that saw developed, fashion in interest his As German French, speaks also (he Dutch learned He Runway looks from Ackermann’s spring 2014, left, 2014, left, spring Ackermann’s from looks Runway and fall 2014 men’s collections. fall and BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY W own style,” he says of his West Coast trip. “I was so so was “I trip. Coast West his of says he style,” own their with around characters—men these walking see “You California. for long him made It bill. the fit pre-casting the at models the of None presentation. garden.” a with hills the in tries at more than 180 outlets. 180 atmorethan tries coun- 35 in sold now is line women’sCEO). The the is (Chapelle Ackermann Haider Atelier company, dent indepen- an 32 to become BVBA from separated label fashion the 2013, June In work.” says. my on he concentrate could freedom,” I Now myself. of by boxes packing sense was I “Before, a me gave “It muse. we Together, it by stone stone.” Haider. built with zero point with “I started infrastructure. needed desperately company the thought so, she Even in.” I believed a personality has “Haider Chapelle. says energy,” and time my of but money of not only investor an “I’m Demeulemeester). Ann was holding fashion other (their Chapelle Anne is executive chief whose 32, BVBA group investment a begot also Ruffo. It house forleather designing gig Colette. lucrative and Barneys by up picked was debut His myself.” difficult toit find I it. complicated about talk “It’s says. he emotions,” on built is work “My oeuvre. lyrical and abstract Ackermann’s to describe and use undulating words liquid fluid, like could One calendar. fashion the on outsider indie an savings with clubs. in working from himself venture this funded He ing.” try- never regret will you but money, is lose can you Upon his return, he began preparing the fall men’s the fall he preparing Upon began return, his his follow to Ackermann allowed merger The Belgian the by acquired was label his 2005, In became he 2002, in Paris, in show debut his With Looks from Ackermann’s fall 2011, left, and spring spring and left, 2011, fall Ackermann’s from Looks 2014 women’s collections. 2014 women’s collections. GO WITH THE FLOW THE WITH GO time there. I was in Laurel Laurel house a in in days six was for Canyon I there. time spent really I time “It first the was says. he escaping,” was “I Angeles. Los from returned just E W MEET WE HEN $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT , Ackermann has has Ackermann , Colombian side, and there is no tomorrow.” is there and side, Colombian on a be table. That’s dancing I my will but at midnight there, in cloud dark a is There person. heavy this think I’m They light. be can I that surprised are People love trash. “I says. he magazines,” gossip the all read for “I toto like journey the two-hour weekly Antwerp. more protected.” feel feel I but don’t weird, sounds “It “I says. he one,” with philosophy. naked a has he which of galore, very something it.” about deadly also is There and ’40s. Detroit the of in Chicago thinking was I subtle. more was It inside. it to the come I from wanted time, “This says. he the silks,” of from came all time last extravagance too are terms those crass in with but describing Ackermann. subversive, appeal, “The decadence as crossover and seen great be could them forming unreachable and broken.” and unreachable something distance, a failure need “You says. the he man,” a like in “I fault. resonating a onto, latch to eye for the it something boys seeks away.”fades Ackermann beautiful on clothes beautiful do just you If boys. I was lost. The have toclothes live to a tell story. beautiful saw just and Paris to came I Then inspired. geometrics suitable for a mosque wall. Like all all explorers? businessmen Like swashbuckling tic, wall. describe—mys- to mosque difficult was it shows, a Ackermann for suitable geometrics of abstract print intricate an featured pants jacquard cotton and silk baggy Some mac. a than cloak king’s The staid. a to akin hardly more sumptuous, was and long were result overcoats the hands his in but flannel— gray and herringbone tweed, of collection sober 15—a January on space Marais vacant chilly a The next day, Ackermann will catch an early train train early an catch will day, Ackermann next The scarves were there style, personal his to Akin Ackermann’s fall 2014 men’s presentation was in in was presentation men’s 2014 fall Ackermann’s aig uh rdtoa mtras n trans- and materials traditional such Taking Ackermann designs at the 2011 Cannes Film Festival. Film Cannes 2011 the at designs Ackermann Janet Jackson, left, and Tilda Swinton, both wearing wearing both Swinton, Tilda and left, Jackson, Janet SHOW STOPPERS STOPPERS SHOW 2/5/14 6:48 PM 85 CHECK MATES Win a tournament in any one of these dramatic pieces, from onyx cuff links to gold watches to bejeweled bracelets.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY THOMAS LAGRANGE STYLING BY DAVID FARBER
OFF THE CUFF An 18-karat bezel on an alligator band is a kingmaker. Left: Montblanc watch, Lanvin cuff links and Tom Ford jacket and shirt. Right: Chanel Fine Jewelry bracelet and Chaumet rings.
86 KNIGHTED TIME Raise a glass to opulence: a rose-gold self-winder and a handful of diamonds. Repossi rings and Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane blouse. Opposite: Audemars Piguet watch, Lanvin cuff links and Dolce & Gabbana jacket and shirt.
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0314B_WSJ_Chess_02.indd 88 2/4/14 5:16 PM 0314B_WSJ_Chess_02.indd 89 2/4/14 5:16 PM 02042014161810 02042014161811 PAWN STARS Roman numerals get the perfect accent in an alligator band, while across the table, pearls and diamonds beckon. Ralph Lauren watch, Cartier cuff links and Ralph Lauren Black Label tuxedo and shirt. Opposite: On her, Buccellati ring, Chanel Fine Jewelry necklaces and Chloé blouse; on him, Patek Philippe watch and Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane suit and shirt. Models, Stephan Wiesinger at Bananas Models and Amandine Choquet at Women Management; makeup, Laura Merle; manicure, Typhaine Kersual. For details see Sources, page 102.
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0314B_WSJ_Chess_03.indd 90 2/10/14 12:57 PM 0314B_WSJ_Chess_02.indd 91 2/4/14 5:16 PM 02102014115823 02042014161811 PICTURE PERFECT In the living room, Marchetti stands in front of a Venetian mirror (reflecting a watercolor by Lucian Freud) bought at auction in Florence. The painting at right is by Francesco Vezzoli. LIGHT IN THE PIAZZA
HEN FEDERICO MARCHETTI, a Federico Marchetti, the founder of online fashion pioneer of fashion e-commerce, wanted to make an offer on an retailer Yoox, found a soaring apartment in a historic apartment facing Milan’s 15th- neighborhood in Milan, the perfect home for his century castle, he grabbed a pen and his personal letter- adventurous art collection—and his growing family. Whead. The corner unit on Piazza Castello was the first place that felt right after a yearlong search that kicked off after his daughter was born. There was just one problem: It wasn’t for sale. Instead, it was for rent. But Marchetti, the founder BY CHRISTINA PASSARIELLO PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATTEO IMBRIANI and chief executive of yoox.com, was already dream- ing of how he could renovate it as a blend of modern and classic that reflected his own style, by tear- ing down the walls to make a large living room and creating a mezzanine library and open kitchen. Yet there was no way he was going to spend that kind of money to redo a rental. So Marchetti penned a letter to the elderly couple who had owned the apartment for decades. “It was a kind of love letter,” Marchetti says. In it, he appealed to the importance of family, expressing his desire to make it a home for Margherita, his daughter, in the and the future,” says Osanna Visconti di Modrone, a Muro. He returned to Milan after getting his MBA same way that it had been for the couple with their jewelry designer who is a friend of Marchetti and his at Columbia University and working in investment children. “And I would like to meet you if you think girlfriend, Kerry Olsen, a freelance journalist who banking in London. you would consider this amount,” Marchetti says he writes for Vogue. He saw himself more as an innovator than a com- wrote. “And then, all the zeroes.” Marchetti picks and chooses his old-fashioned pany man. In 1999, when the dot-com boom was Marchetti is one of fashion’s shrewdest entrepre- customs. “Even if I’m digital, I love to write let- raging, he realized that his native Italy had many fash- neurs and has the zeroes to prove it. At the end of ters by hand. I receive too many emails. Once you ion houses—and lots of unsold clothes. The Internet the 1990s, he had the idea of marrying brands from receive a letter, you read it,” he says. “I wrote a let- was a place to get a deal, so he thought it would be his native Italy with the Internet to deliver style to ter to Steve Jobs a long time ago by hand. He replied a good marketplace for last season’s stock. An out- shoppers around the world. Now, Yoox Group, a blue by email.” (In the manner of Jobs, Marchetti often sider to the fashion industry, he cold-called houses chip on the Milan stock exchange, powers the e-com- wears a black turtleneck sweater, but adds Italian to convince them to give him inventory. He invented merce sites for designers such as Giorgio Armani, flair by pairing it with a Dries Van Noten blazer.) a name, Yoox—two zeroes representing a binary Valentino and Ermenegildo Zegna, as well as its own Physically, Marchetti most closely resembles Italy’s code, in between letters representing the male and multi-brand sites. Marchetti, 45, is its biggest share- most famous cartoon character, Pinocchio, with fe male chromosomes. holder, with a 11 percent stake worth $270 million. eyebrows that express wonder or dubiousness. He Just before Marchetti got his financing to launch, Becoming a father has brought out the tradi- plays up his awkwardness, joking about knocking the first Internet bubble burst. He threw everything he tionalist in Marchetti. His new apartment is among over a wine glass at a glamorous Milan Fashion had into Yoox, not into a grander abode. The company those owned by Milan’s blue bloods. He has been Week dinner the night before. “I’m like Peter Sellers grew, and he bought his little rental. Then he bought buying art for 20 years and now thinks of his daugh- in The Party—very clumsy,” he says, cheeks dim- the one upstairs and merged them into a duplex. ter inheriting a collection when she’s older (she’s pling as he laughs. By the time he purchased a loft on Centre Street two and a half). He dabbles with some up-and-com- Before moving to Piazza Castello last January, in New York in 2010, Marchetti was sitting front row ing artists he discovers through Yoox and professes Marchetti was still living in his student digs. In at runway shows and taking meetings with Anna a love for Mickey Mouse and Dracula, but there are the early ’90s, he came to Milan from his home- Wintour. He had elevated Yoox from its off-price also serious pieces from Andy Warhol, Lucian Freud town of Ravenna, on Italy’s Adriatic coast, to roots to selling full-price designer goods on yoox and Francesco Vezzoli hanging on his new walls. attend Bocconi University, and moved into a small .com and the edgier thecorner.com. One third of his “The house represents two Italian realities: history rent-controlled apartment on Via San Giovanni Sul business came from running e-commerce sites for
93 to be near a golf course. They tried to haggle with for the brands Marchetti sells on Yoox, which has Marchetti over the price, he says, but ended up expanded beyond fashion to design and art. Nearly handing over the keys. every chandelier is from Venini, a Venetian maker There was a lot of work to do. Marchetti had ideas of Murano glass. Marchetti has lots of Fornasetti, about knocking down walls and letting in more both old—a metal tray from the 1950s—and new, light from the castle-facing windows. He consulted like the black lacquered cabinet swarmed with but- a few reputable architects to talk about the proj- terflies in the entry. “Everything I do for work is a ect. “But they were so pretentious, so design-led,” cross-pollination with my life and vice versa,” says says Marchetti. “It would have been wrong to make Marchetti. “In the end I’m a retailer. So I go around it modern.” and see things I like that I think have the potential to Through Mariani, the former owner, Marchetti be sold on Yoox.” met Carlo Bignami and Marina Marsich. The archi- The walls of Marchetti’s new apartment docu- tects’ ideas matched Marchetti’s, such as creating ment his ascent in business. In the scarlet hallway a large open living room, and he upped the ante by is a black-and-white graphic by Mark Kostabi, suggesting the addition of mezzanines to most of the Against the Odds. It was Marchetti’s first buy, from rooms to add space. “They were very functional, not 1999 when he was about to launch Yoox. “The title SIMPLY RED just aesthetic, which is the way I like it, both form is hopefully a summary of my life,” he says. “I’m A Venini vase atop and function,” says Marchetti. He was drawn to very attached to this painting because it brought a Fornasetti cabinet the way the architects presented their work. “They me a lot of luck.” Hanging next to the front door is in the hallway. came not with 3D PowerPoint presentations but with Andy Warhol’s fluorescent pink portrait of Dracula, tables and hand drawings like people used to do 30 which Marchetti bought as a present to himself after or 40 years ago before computers.” listing Yoox on the Italian stock market five years fashion houses that admitted he could do it better. While Bignami and Marsich’s contractor set ago. His latest purchases are clustered together on The 2011 arrival of the “princess,” as Marchetti about gutting the apartment, Marchetti dedicated his “watercolor wall”: works by Lucian Freud, John calls his daughter, rattled his setup. In the Via San himself to decorating it. Predictably, he turned to Currin and Luigi Ontani. He buys many of his pieces Giovanni Sul Muro apartment, there was no room the Internet. He found an antique dealer about an in online auctions, one of his “favorite hobbies.” for a baby, so “she slept in my wardrobe,” says hour from Milan, Vecchio e Nuovo, which listed its Marchetti has begun collecting art for his daughter, Marchetti. “It was not exactly the perfect apartment entire inventory online. He was in the market for a which hangs in her room. There’s an original sketch by for a little child. It was all stairs and a little terrace metal spiral staircase to link the living room with Yoshitomo Nara and an oil painting of birds and an owl for parties.” the mezzanine library. The dealer said he had an by Massimiliano Gottardi, a young Venetian artist, It was time for Marchetti’s small family to move old one lying around. “It was tossed in the garden, chosen by Maurizio Cattelan, whom Yoox promoted on from his bachelor pad. He and his girlfriend totally rusted, but it was perfect,” says Marchetti. during a Venice Biennale sale last year. Shortly after didn’t want to go far. For a year, they saw a couple “It looks kind of Sicilian, like the dresses of Dolce Margherita was born, Marchetti decided to buy her a of apartments every month. Yet the location was & Gabbana.” His architects also found him a giant painting every year for her birthday. “When she turns always wrong, or the place had already been remod- anthracite marble mantelpiece from the 17th cen- 18, she’ll have 18 fantastic paintings,” he says. But eled. They had almost given up when they saw an ad tury, which fit the living room perfectly. he is modest about his collection. For instance, Nara pinned to a lamppost on their street to rent a palatial In a way, the Piazza Castello home is a showcase is one of his favorite artists, “but I still can’t afford apartment on Piazza Castello. The one of his oils. So for now I have the 2,700-square-foot flat had three ashtray,” he says. bedrooms and maid’s quarters. Home on Piazza Castello is above GOOD READS The location was perfect. The A library mezzanine all a place to unwind for Marchetti, red brick Sforza Castle, now home overlooks the living who constantly jets around the to several museums, backs onto the room. The painting at world for work. He dreams of hav- right, by Albrecht city’s most verdant park. “Maggie Dürer, is from 1504. ing an indoor pool one day, but for could have the park across the now he has a bath on the mezzanine street, so it’s like having a gar- level over the master bedroom, den,” Marchetti reasoned. And it behind a glass wall. “It’s my way of was close enough to his old flat that relaxing, in the middle of the prob- Marchetti wouldn’t have to abandon lems,” he says. his favorite coffee shop or pizzeria. Sometimes Marchetti enter- The chance to live on the main tains in his new apartment. Last square is rare. Marchetti heard February, he hosted a housewarm- from real estate agents that apart- ing-slash-birthday party a month ments facing the fortress become after he and his family moved in. available only once every 15 years. Guests included Anna Dello Russo, “There’s basically no market the editor-at-large for Vogue Japan, because all these buildings belong and Diesel cofounder Renzo Rosso. to all these old families,” he says. While a chef twisted mozzarella The Mariani family was one of into braids and singer Raphael them. Different branches of the Gualazzi gave a private concert, an HIGH WINDOWS family occupied various floors in elderly Italian couple danced and The Parisian dining room chairs were bought the building. The owner of the mingled. It was the Marianis, the at auction in Florence. third-story apartment Marchetti former owners. “They were the The chandelier is from yearned for also had his office ones who probably had the most the Grand Hotel des Bains on the Lido in downstairs. But the elderly couple fun,” says Marchetti. “They were Venice. The floor lamp was ready to move out of the city here the longest.” • is by Franz West.
94 The Art of snowdon
BY patrick kinmonth photographY BY david BaileY
With his marriage to Princess Margaret, Antony Armstrong-Jones vaulted to stratospheric renown as Britain’s top portrait photographer. His extraordinary work behind the camera kept him there.
f extreme misconceptions are born of a life royal circles (although Beaton had to wait until 1972 early to pursue photography, his mother sent him a weighed down by the golden chains of fame, for his knighthood), Snowdon was a breath of ozone in telegram: “Darling. Do not agree change of career. Antony Armstrong-Jones has been shackled the stagnant atmosphere of the court. Love Mummy.” But Antony Armstrong-Jones was not to some of its most lethal summits. In the early As a 31-year-old Snowdon stood on the balcony of to be deterred, a quality he inherited from the tele- 1960s, Lord Snowdon (as his ill-fated marriage Buckingham Palace in May of 1960, surveying the gram sender herself. Success came quickly, and by the to Princess Margaret, the present Queen of heaving ocean of loyal subjects straining to see the late ’50s he was photographing the queen for some IEngland’s sister, ennobled him) became the first com- new prince of the people along with an audience of 20 official portraits, was a sought-after fashion photog- moner to marry into the British royal family for three million worldwide (it was the first royal wedding to be rapher and was already known for a wide-ranging centuries. But perhaps only a photographer of that televised), he must have felt a deep qualm for his own talent for seeing truthfully yet aesthetically. He did era, when modern life began in London and the social artistic life. The crowd below dreamed that he might not flinch from social subjects, including a famous map of British society was redrawn through the vio- bring happiness to the unhappy princess at his side, series of pictures of mental patients published in lence of two wars to depict a new meritocracy, could who had recently been prevented from pursuing her The Sunday Times Magazine. His circle included the have bridged that gap. love match with a divorced RAF officer named Peter whirl of London’s new bohemia, from which he made In the Swinging Sixties, Tony swung more than Townsend. The sticking point was royal protocol portraits of writers, actors, artists and beauties that most. Diamond bright, lithe, sexually free and old- out of step with a world that would be devouring the would become his staple materials. world charming: Snowdon was at the time a supreme newly available contraceptive pill in handfuls a year After his wedding to Margaret, the tension beneficiary of the postwar breaking down of barriers later. It was unconscionable to both church and state between the strictures of being royal and the neces- (ultimately confirmed as orthodox by the wedding that a princess would marry a man 16 years her senior sary freedoms of being an artist became intolerable of William and Kate). Cecil Beaton, David Bailey with two children and a recent divorce. But the public to both parties. After years of increasing complica- and Snowdon showed that a camera with a charmer became misty-eyed for the beautiful princess newly in tion, from which turbulent soil grew two wonderfully attached to it could swing the doors of access and per- love and rejoiced at her wedding to Snowdon. sane children, David and Sarah, marital collapse came LIVING LEGEND ception as wide open as Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds. While the marriage meant a stratospheric boost of in 1978. (Snowdon married his second wife, Lucy Snowdon photographed If Bailey was socially mobile and redefined ideas of social power for Snowdon, it would be a threat to his Lindsay-Hogg, soon thereafter, and she would perfect by David Bailey. The two photographers first modern British photography, while Beaton primed the self-expression. After school at Eton and Cambridge, the art of smoothing out his unpredictable tempera- met in London in the pump to make a photographer socially acceptable in where he studied architecture but decided to leave ment. Though they later divorced, in 2000, Lucy’s late 1950s.
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0314B_WSJ_SNOWDON_02.indd 96 2/6/14 12:02 PM 0314B_WSJ_SNOWDON_02.indd 97 2/6/14 12:02 PM 02062014110315 02062014110315 aRTS aND LETTERS Clockwise from top left: David Storey (1971); John Updike (1979); David Bowie (1978); Lucian Freud (1963); Princess Margaret (1967); Princess Anne (1969); Laurence Olivier (1957); Sophia Loren and Carlo Ponti (1970); Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip (2007); Manolo Blahnik (1997).
HIGH SOCIETY Clockwise from top left: David Hockney, with pin boards, in his London studio (1978); Ivon Hitchens (1965); Salvador Dali (1959); Prince Charles and Princess Anne at Buckingham Palace and, at right, with the Queen and Prince Philip (1957); Mikhail Baryshnikov (1977); natterjack toad (1985); the Prince and Princess of Wales, with Princes William and Harry (1991); Igor Stravinsky (1970).
What elevates a portrait is the chance of an unpredictable insight. this is What snoWdon Waits for, like a lion in the grass.
0314B_WSJ_SNOWDON_02.indd 98 2/6/14 12:02 PM 0314B_WSJ_SNOWDON_02.indd 99 2/6/14 12:02 PM 02062014110316 02062014110316 To be sure he had flashbacks. There were image), which come quickly from their hiding places in next one, no other way, down, stop,” and finally the friend Cecil Beaton (as was Snowdon). Where Beaton sometimes glimpses of an imperious and explosive the hands of a deft and typically handsome assistant. camera clicked, I could only imagine what Bruno rushed from attention-grabbing project to hasty, manner that must have been permitted by his former As the studio morphs into a less elegant and was thinking. The wry, encouraging smile of Bruno’s high-profile photo shoot—and tended to leave the clout and which sat strangely in his killer repertoire of more exciting place, and concentration deepens, it manager, Terry Lawless, from behind Snowdon’s hard work and finish to others in between—Messel wit, openness and charm. But while he bore the scars is wonderful to see a sitter getting to grips with the camera is one of countless photographic memories of was hands-on. Steeped in the history of theater and of one who has played with fire and paid the price, his fact that they are facing the lens of one of the great the studio printed nowhere except inside my head. fashion, his painted designs conjured whole worlds images survive, and as the dust settles, his achieve- portrait photographers in the history of the genre, In my many years at British Vogue, I commissioned with a few strokes of the brush. Messel’s faded ment is maturing and we can see more clearly now the swept into the palpable hunt for the image. When and assisted as what would now be called creative sense of color, of phantom dusky blues and sepias outline and trajectory of what really matters: his work this happens, an almost unearthly feeling of suspen- director, but in those days it was just a matter of: that cast a spell over his many stage designs and as a photographer. sion manifests in the studio, as can happen in the “This is Patrick, from Vogue.” Photographers worked costumes for ballets and plays in the early- to mid- Snowdon was to British Vogue what Irving Penn theater when a play reaches its crucial scene. Words pretty much alone, with a single sittings editor. The 20th century, haunt Snowdon’s own photographic was to the American edition. To be photographed by become inadequate at such moments. The shutter subject sat without the massive attendant court world. “Oliverish” remains an adjective reserved for either of them was a rite of passage. There was no film clicks more and more frequently in the silence. (No that has now become commonplace at photo shoots. the highest level of taste and beauty in Snowdon’s star so stratospheric, no artist so reclusive, no actor so music is played to “break the ice.” As Snowdon once And that was how Snowdon liked it, banishing every canon. A fragile feathered mask made by Messel for unflattered that they would not don one of his famous said to me, “Why music? I like the ice.”) The image unessential pair of eyes from the room. Even we who the bluebird in Sleeping Beauty, conjured from pipe blue shirts (white was too distracting against the quickens to its truest composition, and Snowdon stayed were trained not to look at the eyes of the sitter, cleaners, paper and foggy gouache, hangs in the skin) and sit for him. More than 300 of sees his final version of the photograph studio as a reminder that the best can be these iconic portraits are now housed at through the lens. And takes it. made from the least. the National Portrait Gallery in London As the sitting proceeds, his injunc- From the beginning of Snowdon’s as part of its permanent collection, and tions to the sitter become specific and career, his studios spoke volumes. An yet there are thousands more, many urgent, and if recorded would sound early studio at Rotherhithe, a district in of which are being digitized, restored quite dictatorial. In fact they are. It is the southeast London, was more a romantic and made available for licensing this privilege of the photographer to be the hideaway: a piratical old house, with its spring. It is by any standard a remark- boss of his subject while the sitting lasts. windows facing the Thames, downriver able oeuvre—soon to be celebrated in At times, there is a certain astonished where London nods at Venice, especially Snowdon Review, a monograph being relief palpable in the studio when, for at night with the lights of the city shiv-
published by Rizzoli later this year. eS; example, Prime Minister Thatcher finds ering on the water. A typically simple
For Snowdon, who celebrates his MAG for once that she can take pleasure in and stylish interior was conjured up by WEDDING BELLE Snowdon’s marriage to Princess Margaret in 1960 made him the first commoner to 84th birthday this month, the studio is surrender, while being told precisely Snowdon, where a kitchen and neces- wed into the royal family for centuries—and meant much more than just a place to work. It what to do or when a great actor or sary offices were hidden behind a row of a significant boost in his social standing. is a deep part of his creative process, an / Redux author known to be prickly becomes simple wooden doors. Here, Noël Coward oto/ Getty i SS
expression of his romantic and playful RF visual putty in his hands. Studio portrait played the piano, Marlene Dietrich sang, Re P
spirit, an extension of his character and PP e photography is 90 percent unspon- and Rudolf Nureyev arrived on the back of RA delicious food, her elegant, wonderfully clothed fig- a place without which, perhaps, many e taneous. What elevates a portrait is Tony’s motorbike.
ure and exquisite taste in books, conversation and of his photographs would be entirely cAM the 10 percent chance of a completely Other studios—the Rotherhithe P LeFt: Po
manners, combined with a deep talent for friendship different—or simply not exist. In his stu- don/ unpredictable insight—and this is what playroom was occupied simultaneously and a tender heart, sailed on through Tony’s tempests dio, where many of the journeys toward W Snowdon is waiting for, like a lion hidden with a more practical and centrally IN FOCUS From top: Armstrong-Jones in 1958—the year he met oM to FR and built a bridge over his troubled waters.) a portrait ended with the soft but defin- Princess Margaret—in his studio on Pimlico Road; the photographer e: Sno in the grass. For this insight made flesh located studio on the Pimlico Road—were
As is usual and probably inevitable in such itive click of his beloved Hasselblad, we in Gwynedd, Wales, in 1967. PAG he has an uncanny instinct, forging the transformed by the quality of Snowdon’s WiSe circumstances, the cloud of unknowing and gossip discover something of his deeper pro- moment in which we see the person as process. In his country studio (at Old ock
created an implausible and distorted version of the cess and influences (which I have to say iS; tHiS we had always hoped, revealed in a new House, near his mother’s house, Nymans), e cL royal Snowdon and the pinnacles of fame he reached. is precisely the kind of thing Snowdon hates). book Sittings proves. Its elegant lines would not RB light yet at their most representative. If there was a potter’s wheel and kiln next to PAG co
By the time I met him in the ’80s, fresh from Oxford The studio is Snowdon’s most revealing self- S this sounds hard, it is. watercolor tables and the nicest-looking seem out of place in Nadar’s 19th-century studio, and AP and in my first job as commissioning art editor at portrait—an essential part of his oeuvre as a man it appears to await its next sitter with impatience, But since Snowdon is hyperallergic takE a SEat the chair in Snowdon’s London studio at Launceston Place. tripods you could imagine. Photography eviou eS; ©
British Vogue, the photographer, now in his fifties, far obsessed with the look of the world and the design of irony and wonder—rather as Snowdon does himself. PR to the stuffy and the dull, and can smell was a craft, to be enjoyed alongside his MAG
outshone that other mythical being, and the truer man things. (From the same mind issued a collaboration The subject could be a queen, an unknown young in; pretention like a shark smells a corpuscle designs in balsa wood and toothpicks for
who was almost consumed for a while in the crucible that made one of the most strikingly modern actor, a dancer, a prime minister, a painter, a beauty, RAM of blood in miles of open water, laughter is never far not to intervene in or upstage the connection between a new garden folly or a wobbly jug.
of attention and its attendant myths emerged intact. structures in London: his steel-framed aviary for a friend—and has been all of these many times over. tin away. The image is constructed laboriously, finding the the photographer and his subject, which in a way is the When we traveled, the studio came with us. iS; Getty i RB
the London Zoo, built in the mid-’60s with Cedric Once the sitting proper starts, the chair more often MAR pose is a journey, but Snowdon creates an atmosphere photograph. Watching the face of his sitter, Snowdon Backdrops were folded up and packed and would
Price and Frank Newby.) Like him, his studio in than not is banished. Another chair takes its place, or /co of carnival when it suits his purpose. Sometimes the adjusted the shadows and highlights with a firm, no- make the journey to Paris to photograph Nureyev or GMA Launceston Place in London’s Kensington district is a plain white wooden cube, torn gray paper or his sig- eAd: F. joke might be on the sitter as much as with them. nonsense hand and sometimes, when the going got a distant German castle to shoot the painter Georg Sy
both extremely traditional and strikingly modern. It nature spattered painted backdrops in mid-grays and SPR Photographing the writer Bruce Chatwin, who was tough, with the manner of a dentist getting to grips Baselitz. There was always a beautiful row of chairs at on/ S is a place layered with memories and accretions, for he khakis (these more than anything define his painterly S famously ambisexual, Snowdon called him Bruce when with a difficult molar. hand “in case.” Even if we ended up outside in the rain, kin
has worked here for more than 35 years. style as a photographer)—or, perhaps, the beloved eviou he was in front of the camera, but after he’d retreated we knew we had the blueprint of a Snowdon picture in PR PAR
When the studio is empty, his old sail of a felucca which he n around the corner to undress into another rugged hether branching out into our bags as a touchstone and amulet. preferred sitter’s chair is placed in brought home from Egypt after outfit, to my astonishment, Snowdon would call out fashion and designing com- Snowdon is never happier t ha n when photograph in g RMA the center of the room. The chair is visiting the set of Death on “Ruth?”—obviously adoring Bruce’s manly, unwitting mercial tweed knickerbocker artists of any kind, and to be with them in their as significant a character as - any the Nile (designed by his great reply of, “Yah?” Risky, vintage Snowdon. ski clothes in the late ’50s or a studios and ateliers is clearly as huge a pleasure for G By deLe oLo;
one who ever sat in it, as Snowdon’s friend, the triple Oscar-winning in Often, in the many (50? 60?) sittings we made dragonfly brooch out of silver him as to be in his own. There, he recognizes himself M /Redux; ©no
portrait of it for the cover of his SS costumier Anthony Powell, in oo together over more than a decade, he would ask me to safety pins on a rainy after- and his own passion in what he is shooting, whether Re GR
1977). The chosen background P manipulate the fingers of a sitter to make shapes he noon at home, Snowdon is possessed of an essential in the folds of a dress by Madame Grès, the scruffy it:
RA W
swiftly appears with a mini- e liked for the picture. As I gently arranged the fingers creative impatience, something he absorbed studio of Frank Auerbach or the mysterious forms of RA makING thE SCENE Snowdon and mum of fuss, accompanied by of a young, half-naked Frank Bruno—the professional early on in life from immersion in his uncle Oliver Anish Kapoor, Barbara Hepworth or Henry Moore. But cAM
Princess Margaret greet the Beatles u/
less than pretty polystyrene G PoRt boxer and onetime heavyweight champion of the Messel’s romantic taste. Messel was the magician while studios, art and the camera frame so much of his
before the 1965 London premiere of Help. LA boards to control the light world—with Snowdon saying “make them like a Rodin, par excellence of the English stage in the early 20th endeavor, the ultimate portrait of Snowdon is to be
Right: Frolicking with Peter Sellers at enin toM B the actor’s Beverly Hills home. (unseen, of course, in the final oP whoa, stop, back a bit, next one, up a bit, whoops, no, century, and a thorn in the competitive side of his traced elsewhere—in his photographs of other faces. •
101
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0314B_WSJ_Sources_01.indd 102 2/6/14 5:48 PM 02062014164953 Approved with warnings still life John Baldessari The conceptual artist shares a few of his favorite things.
photography by Mark Mahaney
Hanging on tHe left wall is a Chinese chili pod, which I love. My children made the little statues when model because of his use of chiaroscuro. To the right is signed and given to me by Tom Waits. The artist Analia they were young, at that stage when they’re not think- a painting by the son of my friend Meg Cranston. She Saban, who was a student of mine, made the Not Dry ing about making art, they’re just having fun—that’s painted a black round shape and told him to continue, painting. I have several of her pieces, but that’s my the best stage. To the right are my favorite cigars, the and he made it into a bomb. The picture of the dog favorite. Claes Oldenburg gave me the sculpture to the Te-Amo brand. I only smoke one a week. The Rodarte and the wooden figure of the painter and his palette left when I was at his house for dinner one night with sisters gave me the vase of baseballs. They say I’m were also gifts from her. The red book is a collection of Bruce Nauman. Claes excused himself and came back their favorite artist. They’re big baseball fans. Above William Carlos Williams’s poetry. I like that he writes with two of them. I got the orange one and Bruce got that, on the wall, is a picture from Sol LeWitt. He used about ordinary stuff in ordinary language. The yodeling the black one. I don’t know if that means anything. The to do drawings on postcards and mail them out to pickle was a gift from Damien Hirst. You press a button SpongeBob drawing is from the creator of the show, friends. Above that is an etching by Goya, who’s a role and it yodels. I love it. —As told to Christopher Ross
104 wsj. magazine
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