Rose Sheet Pharma intelligence rose.pharmaintelligence.informa.com December 2017 informa
NSF’s Cosmetics Verification Program Fizzles, While EWG’s Could See Second Boom JAMIE HAMMON [email protected] RYAN NELSON [email protected]
SF International has put its cos- The not-for-profit organization plans to metic product verification program conduct research in 2018 “to better under- N on hold less than a year after it stand the market interest in a robust, sci- launched, due to lack of interest. “We developed the ence-based product verification program,” The global independent standards, testing cosmetic product according to Coy. and certification organization introduced the verification service in April 2017. The program verification program earlier ‘EWG VERIFIED’ FLOURISHING was designed to review cosmetics companies’ IN COMPARISON regulatory and good manufacturing practices this year, and we realize The Environmental Working Group has had compliance, subject products to toxicological now that we may have markedly more success with its “EWG Veri- and contaminant testing, vet label claims and fied” platform, with more than 1,000 person- conduct periodic facility audits. been ahead of our time. We al-care products from 75+ brands qualifying Qualifying applicants would have been for the NGO’s mark to date. (Also see “’EWG free to sport the NSF Product Verified mark simply have not seen much Verified’ Personal-Care Safety Seal Builds On on their products, offering an added layer interest in the program,” ‘Skin Deep’ Platform” - Rose Sheet, 4 Nov, 2015.) of assurance to consumers, according to the While Coy suggests that NSF may have group. (Also see “NSF International Launches said NSF Cosmetics jumped the gun, it could be argued that Cosmetic Verification Program For ‘Consumer the group was late getting off the line, an- Assurance’” - Rose Sheet, 18 Apr, 2017.) Manager Casey Coy. nouncing its program some 18 months af- NSF said that “by selecting cosmetic ter EWG’s debuted. products that have been evaluated against From the outset, EWG Verified has proven the rigorous criteria of NSF International’s uct manufacturers. For example, its regula- popular with niche brands built on trending cosmetic product verification, consumers tory consulting team provides registration if ill-defined, largely unregulated concepts can be confident that products bearing the and notification services to help companies – “natural,” “green,” “sustainable.” Such com- NSF mark have been tested to meet the comply with California’s Safe Cosmetics Act, panies tend to cast themselves as uniquely quality and safety consumers expect.” the European Cosmetics Regulation and responsible and transparent, health-con- The group has since pressed pause on other such programs. scious actors and, thus, may have most to the initiative. It’s also available to assist with cosmetic gain from third-party verification in terms “We developed the cosmetic product product safety reports and product infor- of shoring up this positioning in the eyes of verification program earlier this year, and mation files required in the EU, and con- their target audiences. we realize now that we may have been ducts gap audits against other country- EWG lists Dolphin Organics, Aromatica ahead of our time,” said Casey Coy, cosmet- specific regulatory and quality system (touted as “Natural and safe, our promise to ics and personal care manager at NSF, in a standards, according to its website. you”), Cocoon Apothecary (“Nature makes Dec. 11 email to the Rose Sheet. Further, NSF reviews product labels and a comeback”), Davids Premium Natural “We simply have not seen much interest website claims to verify compliance with Toothpaste, Be Green Bath & Body, Finally in the program,” she added. regulations and ensure that ingredients Pure, Honestly pHresh and Conscious Skin- The group still offers a la carte testing ser- and test data are consistent with promo- care among brands that have earned its vices for cosmetics and personal-care prod- tional statements. mark on products. CONTINUED ON PAGE 1
BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE EDITORS OF ROSE SHEET AND TAN SHEET harma intelligence | DECEMBER 2017
Our selection of Rose Sheet content from the past month includes some of our most-viewed articles online and editors’ picks of top issues across the cosmetics and dietary supplement sectors.
Please visit rose.pharmaintelligence.informa.com for full access to our comprehensive, up-to-the-minute news coverage and analysis.
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COSMETICS COVER .NSF’s Cosmetics Verification Program Fizzles, While EWG’s Could See Second Boom 4 National Standard For Cosmetics Quality Nearing Finish Line With Retailer Buy-In 6 CIR: Industry Working On Producing Preservative PHMB Sensitization Data 8 Personal-Care Industry Leaders Issue Call For Green Chemistry Solutions 10 BASF Ingredient Case Begs For Verdict: Do REACH Animal Tests Violate Cosmetics Reg? 12 China Animal Testing Continues To Make Headaches For Beauty Brands
DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS 13 Dietary Supplement Sector Warnings Jump With FDA ‘Program Alignment’ 15 Form 483s: Supplement Firms’ Stage For Changing FDA Inspectors’ Views 16 Unusual Supplement Adverse Events Could Be ‘Canary’ Of Problem 17 Opioid-Withdrawal ‘Aids’ Warrant Immediate FDA, FTC Action – CSPI 19 Appropriators’ Interest Could Point To FDA Supplement Programs Funding Boost 20 FDA ‘Evolving’ Homeopathic Drug Enforcement With Risk-Based Approach
LEADERSHIP CORPORATE SALES ADVERTISING DESIGN SUPERVISOR Phil Jarvis, Richard Faint John Lucas, Elissa Langer Christopher Keeling Gayle Rembold Furbert
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2 | Rose Sheet | December 2017 © Informa UK Ltd 2017 COSMETICS
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 Participating companies could highlight Putting aside the timing of their veri- NSF’s credentials as an organization accred- fication program launches, it’s hard to ited by the American National Standards In- imagine that NSF’s name recognition is as “It’s been amazing to see stitute with a history of collaborating with strong as EWG’s among such companies the positive reaction. For the World Health Organization on water and their customers. While both NSF and quality and food safety issues, for example. EWG are committed to promoting pub- years brands have wanted The question remains though: Does lic and environmental health, their modi the average cosmetics consumer or main- operandi, industry relationships and the a stamp of approval stream brand loyalist need the “assurance” ways they interface with consumers are from EWG to show they that NSF’s mark is intended to provide? very different. Perhaps industry has already answered NSF’s consensus-based standards and are doing the best to that question. certification platforms generally lack the level of public visibility commanded by produce products free WALMART RECOMMENDATION EWG’s annual sunscreen ratings, its Guide from potentially dangerous COULD POSE DILEMMA to Healthy Cleaning, GMO-avoidance man- In a Dec. 15 email, EWG’s Jocelyn Lyle, vice ual, cosmetics legislative work, product chemicals.” – EWG’s president of development and online en- blacklists or unsafe chemical campaigns. gagement, expressed enthusiasm about It’s not uncommon for EWG’s initiatives to Jocelyn Lyle, vice president EWG Verified’s reception to date and opti- receive national media attention. of development and online mism about the program’s future. EWG has more than 54,000 Twitter fol- “It’s been amazing to see the positive lowers and 641,000 Facebook followers, engagement reaction,” she said. “For years brands have compared with NSF’s roughly 3,300 and wanted a stamp of approval from EWG to 6,000, respectively. EWG also has more show they are doing the best to produce than 50,000 Instagram followers, while NSF pert bodies such as the Cosmetic Ingredi- products free from potentially dangerous is without a presence on the photo- and ent Review (CIR) Expert Panel (US) and the chemicals.” video-sharing platform, a favorite among Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety The NGO expects interest in the verifica- younger consumers. (SCCS) (EU).” tion mark to continue to grow, particularly At the basis of EWG’s cosmetics safety As a non-voting liaison member of CIR’s in light of recent developments at mega- messaging and activism is the group’s Skin panel, FDA takes the group’s findings into retailer Wal-Mart Stores, Inc. Deep database, which houses information account in its cosmetics safety program, In September, Walmart said it would on close to 9,000 ingredients and hazard and SCCS’ opinions regularly shape the Eu- begin encouraging vendors to obtain assessments for more than 72,000 cosmetic ropean Commission’s rules for safe ingredi- the EWG Verified mark and/or Cradle to products. The group compares formula- ent use in the cosmetics sector. Cradle certification (silver level or bet- tions against roughly 60 sources of chemi- Loretz added, “Like its Skin Deep data- ter), administered by the nonprofit Cradle cal toxicity and regulatory information, ac- base, [EWG] does not use sound scientific to Cradle Products Innovation Institute. cording to the Skin Deep site. principles or peer-reviewed data as the (Also see ““Multi-Attribute” Cradle-To-Cra- EWG Verified products must score “green” basis for its claims.” Its analysis therefore “is dle Seal: The Ultimate In Sustainability?” - overall (1-2, denoting “low hazard”) on Skin fundamentally flawed, and the conclusions Rose Sheet, 27 Jun, 2011.) Deep’s 1-10 hazard scale and be free of ingredi- are not meaningful,” she asserted. According to the big-box retailer, the ents on the group’s “Unacceptable” list, which EWG has a passionate public follow- programs “lend credibility to green chem- includes various parabens, formaldehyde re- ing regardless, so it’s not surprising that a istry and safer substitutions” in line with its leasers, phthalates and other substances that growing number of self-styled “good-for- own sustainable chemistry commitments, regulatory authorities have deemed safe for you” startup brands, which purport to go launched in 2013. (Also see “Walmart Sus- cosmetic use at controlled levels. above and beyond mainstream industry tainable Chemistry Policy A “Big Deal,” But Large, established industry players tend standards, are aligning themselves with Raises Questions” - Rose Sheet, 17 Mar, 2014.) to take a deeply critical view of EWG’s Skin the organization and its hazard-based ap- EWG applauded the move, calling it Deep platform and the methodology that proach to cosmetics safety. “terrific news” for Walmart customers and informs its ingredient and product safety If the verification program that NSF has in their families. “This latest decision to not assessments. mind is a more “robust, science-based” sys- only embrace, but encourage companies In a December 2016 statement, the Per- tem in comparison, it could be promoted to to seek the EWG Verified seal further un- sonal Care Products Council’s Chief Toxi- larger, mainstream brands as an alternative derscores Walmart’s commitment to sus- cologist Linda Loretz observed that Skin to EWG’s mark that doesn’t compromise tainability and safer consumer products,” Deep “assumes certain ingredients are their scientific principles or disqualify prod- asserted the group’s co-founder and Pres- hazardous, despite the fact that they have ucts made with ingredients that regulatory ident Ken Cook. been found safe for use in cosmetics by ex- authorities agree are safe. According to Lyle, the Walmart endorse-
3 | Rose Sheet | December 2017 © Informa UK Ltd 2017 COSMETICS ment has generated significant new interest NSF DOUBLES DOWN ON NATIONAL where appropriate – such as FDA’s draft in EWG Verified “from companies of all sizes.” STANDARDS DEVELOPMENT guidance for cosmetics good manufactur- She continued, “Some of the biggest play- NSF’s verification program may be shelved, ing practices – as well as ISO quality stan- ers are already making huge movements to at least for now, but the group says it still dards and retailer requirements. meet our standards because of Skin Deep’s sees a need for quality and safety standards The idea is to combine all elements into powerful voice in better beauty.” in the personal-care industry. a single standard and auditing program for Lyle pointed to commitments from in- The organization collaborated with each category. Product certification will not dustry leaders in 2017 – namely Procter stakeholders to form the Global Retailer be part of the criteria, according to NSF. & Gamble Co. and Unilever – to disclose and Manufacturer Alliance in 2014 and now The first completed standard, for di- fragrance ingredients across product port- is stepping up efforts to help finalize the de- etary supplements, was expected to be folios, notwithstanding the fragrance sec- velopment of consensus-based standards available in 2015, but NSF says the pro- tor’s longstanding argument that giving up for industries including cosmetics, dietary cess has taken longer than expected due trade secrets could jeopardize innovation supplements and OTC drugs. to GRMA’s commitment to form a joint and fair competition. (Also see “P&G To Dis- Aimed at “strengthening safety, qual- committee with a balance of stakeholders close Fragrance Ingredients Portfolio-Wide By ity and trust throughout the supply chain” and to harmonize standards across sec- 2020” - Rose Sheet, 30 Aug, 2017.) and streamlining audits to reduce costs for tors as much as possible. “It makes us hopeful they [leading com- manufacturers, the standards are meant to The projected publication date for the OTC panies] are committed to not using harmful use US regulatory requirements as a base- drug, cosmetics and dietary supplement ingredients,” the EWG exec said. line while also incorporating FDA guidance standards is now the first quarter of 2018.
National Standard For Cosmetics Quality Nearing Finish Line With Retailer Buy-In
RYAN NELSON [email protected]
he Global Retailer and Manufacturer Supplement GMP Standards In Fine-Tuning Alliance aims to launch within the Phase” - Rose Sheet, 9 Dec, 2016.) T next three months voluntary Ameri- “The harmonization between the differ- can National Standards for cosmetics, di- “Once they get published ent groups was a key objective, and that’s etary supplements and OTC drugs that go we think this is going been taking the most time,” confirmed Mike beyond FDA’s expectations for good manu- Finamore, CEO of Gemini Pharmaceuticals, facturing practices to also address other to become not only an Inc. and president of the GRMA governance quality issues and retailer demands. board, in a Dec. 20 interview. The goal is to streamline audits for manu- industry standard but He noted the high number of manufac- facturers, thereby reducing complexity and something we look at turers with business in multiple product costs, while strengthening trust throughout categories – for example cosmetics as well the supply chain and promoting consumer going forward and are as dietary supplements and/or OTC drugs. confidence in certified brands. “So the more we could harmonize things NSF International, which is accredited by amazed that industry and get all parties on the same page, the the American National Standards Institute, existed without it.” better the primary purpose of the GRMA is facilitating the consensus-based stan- would be satisfied, which is to have really dards development process in accordance – Mike Finamore, president strong standards acceptable to retailers,” with ANSI guidelines and procedures. thereby casting a wide net that results in The independent standards creator, of GRMA governance board fewer audits and a reduced work schedule which also tests and certifies products, for companies, he said. announced the project in late 2014. It has GRMA has approached the standards’ de- since been working with retailers including publish by the end of the 2018 first quarter. velopment by using federal requirements Walmart, Walgreens, Costco and Wegmans, While the GRMA standard for dietary sup- for GMPs and/or related FDA guidance as a along with regulatory and industry reps plements initially was targeted for release in baseline, then layering in additional quality and other testing laboratories, to refine 2015, efforts to harmonize standards across considerations. initial blueprints and advance the category- sectors have resulted in delays, the orga- “What we’ve seen over time is that indi- specific standards, which now are slated to nization says. (Also see “Consensus-Based vidual auditing bodies have created their
4 | Rose Sheet | December 2017 © Informa UK Ltd 2017 COSMETICS own auditing standards based on [federal Manufacturers may not have been con- ated with the undertaking, may not pose regulations]. They really can’t get too far vinced that NSF’s name carries enough significant challenges from a big-picture away from what the CRF requires, but they weight with the average consumer to jus- standpoint. all had their own nuances” based on best tify the cost of investing in an NSF “Veri- For smaller companies with less experi- practices and other external guidelines, fied” mark. ence and fewer resources, earning the cer- Finamore explained. Firms may be more incentivized to tification could prove a harder row to hoe. Meanwhile, retailers have been working certify their operations to an American However, such enterprises could view the with preferred auditing organizations – National Standard, which must be de- investment as a stride toward compliance potentially requiring vendors to meet dif- veloped and approved as conforming with federal requirements down the line, ferent quality requirements depending on to ANSI Essential Requirements. ANSI, as multiple legislative proposals currently where their products are sold – or laboring which coordinates the process, notes on under consideration in Congress would di- to sort through the various auditing sys- its website that such standards “serve US rect FDA to establish GMPs for the cosmet- tems used by their vendors to determine interests well because all materially af- ics sector via rulemaking. (Also see “ICMAD what the information means for products fected stakeholders have the opportunity Stands By House Cosmetics Bill, But May Be sold in their stores. to work together to create them.” Ready To Negotiate” - Rose Sheet, 31 Oct, GRMA says its work will simplify matters American National Standards are volun- 2017.) by providing ANSI-approved gold stan- tary and only become mandatory “when, FDA took the International Organization dards for safety and quality assurance to and if, they are adopted or referenced by for Standardization’s ISO 22716 into ac- which companies can be certified. Fina- the government or when market forces count when updating its cosmetics GMPs more suggested that a grading scale will make them imperative.” draft guidance, which released in revised be included. Should retailers make certification to form in June 2013, and the GRMA used “So if retailers are doing a bidding pro- the GRMA cosmetics standard a de facto both documents as source materials for its cess and only A-graded vendors can bid, requirement for brands to have a presence standard. that’s a very strong incentive for everyone on their store shelves, a great number of Finamore is optimistic that the forthcom- to achieve that level,” he said. companies no doubt will come knocking ing American National Standards will meet on NSF’s door. with an enthusiastic reception. SMES IN PARTICULAR COULD While GMPs compliance in the dietary “We’re getting a lot of buy-in from the re- FACE CHALLENGES supplement and OTC drug sectors is man- tailers, and we’re seeing that although we NSF tried launching a cosmetic product ver- datory under federal law, FDA has issued haven’t yet published the standards people ification service in April 2017, which would just non-binding draft guidance for GMPs know what they’re getting into, the credibil- have assessed companies’ compliance with in the cosmetics sector. (Also see “ICCR Ush- ity of the group that’s putting this together regulatory mandates and GMPs, subjected ers Forth Updated Cosmetic GMP Guidelines and the desire for retailers to have this sort products to toxicological and contaminants From FDA” - Rose Sheet, 1 Jul, 2013.) of thing in place,” the exec said. testing and vetted product claims. Many cosmetics manufacturers, particu- “So we have this momentum, and once However, the program has been put on larly large firms and those with crossover they get published we think this is going to ice due to lack of industry interest. (Also see business into other product categories, become not only an industry standard but “NSF’s Cosmetics Verification Program Fizzles, may well be GMP-compliant already, so something we look at going forward and While EWG’s Could See Second Boom” - Rose certification to the more comprehensive are amazed that industry existed without Sheet, 19 Dec, 2017.) GRMA standard, and the costs associ- it,” he concluded.