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June 2013 Edition 102 ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com

Photo: © Natalia Wiernik PEOPLE POWER page 4 CYCLE ACTIVISM page 6

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Krakow Post is a monthly publication Cricket in Krakow 8 owned by Lifeboat Ltd. and published 5 Years of the Jewish Community Centre 10–11 under license by Krakow Media Drop In: Alchemia od Kuchni 12 ISSN: 1898-4762 Fitness www.krakowpost.com Posted: The Month’s Events 14–15 Managing Director: David McGirr Kino Mania: Polish Cinema 16 [email protected] Club Life: Music and Gigs 17–20 Managing Editor: Jamie Stokes Healthy Living 21 [email protected] Jewish Culture Festival 22–23 Design: Darren Wilde Gumball 3000 24 [email protected] Beer of the Month 25 Printers: www.polskapresse.pl Natalia Wiernik: Photography 26-27 For advertising inquiries, please contact: Get Out of Town: Kryspinów 28 [email protected] +48 519 714 474 Topical Polish 30 Tales from the Chalkface 30 Dear Luiza… 30 Photo: David McGirr Classified Ads 31 4

People Power■ Grażyna Zawada

many Cracovians feel their voices are not “ being heard by local policy makers

olish or expat, you can help decide “It is not true that we do not hear or care end of April, Tarnów also joined the list. “In my opinion there are certain limits, PKrakow’s policies. The first step: a civic about the voices of residents,” retorted Kra- Since May, a pilot civic involvement proj- within which all citizens can have access to budget. kow city council member, Małgorzaty Jan- ect has been running in three of Krakow’s the city budget. I can’t imagine the whole In recent months, Krakow has witnessed tos. “It was we who invited them to a discus- districts: Bronowice, Prądnik Biały and Zwi- community deciding on major city invest- an explosion of civic activism. Joining exist- sion, by launching a round table initiative erzyniec. Meetings and surveys have been ments. It would be technically difficult to ing people power initiatives, such as the on housing and education,” she said. held at various locations, including organ- accomplish. We would have to go back to Space, People, City association and biking Jantos also opposed the idea of treating ised family picnics. the Greek idea of polis, or the agora, where activists, new groups have sprung up, Kra- the city council as a monolithic body. “We, All residents in these districts are en- citizens gathered and decided together,” kow Smog Alert and New Krupnicza being the council members, sit between execu- couraged to submit ideas that will later be Majchrowski said during an interview with among the most vocal. tive power and the residents, and we are discussed and voted on – the stake is the Gazeta Wyborcza. These grass roots movements reflect the all learning to communicate. I don’t un- expenditure of 250,000 zł of city funds. “The “Our aim is to create a civic society, and fact that many Cracovians feel their voices derstand why I and many of my active and consultations are going well, the districts’ a civic budget is one step toward that are not being heard by local policy makers, open colleagues should be lumped togeth- council members are strongly involved, but goal,” said the head of Zwierzyniec district, especially in crucial areas such as city plan- er with the rest of the council. Let us hold the best method of research has yet to be Szczęsny Filipiak. “What we have today is a ning and budgeting. every member individually responsible” established. Our greatest task is to inform as low sense of solidarity and responsibility. Prominent daily newspaper, Gazeta said Jantos. many people as possible about these con- We don’t believe that we, as citizens, have Wyborca, has recently launched the Noth- The first sign of change is a plan to intro- sultations. Hopefully, in the future, the peo- any influence. This budget may help to ing New Without Us campaign (Nic o nas duce a civic, or participatory, budget. The ple will themselves ask for consultations,” change this situation,” said Filipiak. bez nas), calling for decision makers to assignment of a few percent of the city’s said Agnieszka Matuszyńska-Dziewitek, The next step once the consultation recognise and prioritise the real needs of budget is to be decided directly by Krakow head of the Pracownia Obywatelska associ- work is finished will be to draft specific proj- Cracovians. “Is Krakow in fact governed by residents as part of an initiative intended ation, which is responsible for the research. ects and cost estimates. Pracownia Obywa- officials in a way that is best for its citizens?” to encourage a civic society. Civic budgets Krakow’s mayor, Jacek Majchrowski, has telska expects to launch the first projects in editor-in-chief, Józef Stachów, asked rhe- have already been implemented in Poznań, expressed scepticism about involving the September. torically. Dąbrowa Górnicza, Sopot and Toruń. At the whole city in the city’s budget discussions. NEWS■ Anthony Casey – inside-poland.com

Arsonist strikes three times around 4pm on May 27. A reward of 5,000 zł is on offer for infor- Emir 19, the company that bought Ho- mation leading to the arrest and convic- tel Francuski in 2011, for 20.5 million zł tion of an arsonist who is believed to have and which is in turn owned by Alterco, is been responsible for three separate fires alleged to be several hundreds of thou- that caused around 230,000 zł worth of sands of zł in debt. All equipment, from damage and forced a family to be evacu- the white goods in the kitchen down to ated from their home. the plates and glasses for guests, were on Overnight on May 27-28, two barns the bailiffs’ list for collection. burned down in Łapczyca, near Bochnia, The hotel’s catering arm is run by Adam Małopolska. At the same time, a blaze Szczęsny Gessler, whose brother was the broke out at a barn in nearby Gierczyce. husband of TV chef Magda Gessler. Firefighters said that the fire at one of Emir 19 and the unnamed creditors the barns spread to a house next door, and have been in negotiations over repay- the people living there had to be evacuat- ment of debts since February 2013. It is ed. The fires in Łapczyca took three hours understood that Adam Gessler is not per- to bring under control, but the blaze in sonally liable for any debt in relation to the Gierczyce was still going after five hours. case. Fire investigators believe that the three Bailiffs withdrew without taking the blazes must have been set deliberately. equipment, and negotiations on repay- They said that there was no electrical sup- ments will continue. ply to any of the barns, and that it was no coincidence that all three had gone up on Special forces on display in Krakow the same night. To a casual observer, it may have looked Now Jerzy Lysy, Mayor of Bochnia, has as though the third world war had start- offered the reward for information about ed. Military aircraft roared overhead, and the suspected arsonist. Reports can be troops in full combat gear raced along the made by calling 112, 997, or +48 14 615 banks of the River Wisła. 2222. But the spectacle in Krakow had been organised to mark the sixth Special Forces Luftwaffe plane lands in Krakow Day (Święto Wojsk Specjalnych). The aircraft model preferred by Adolf Hit- Poland’s crack air, land and marine ler is to be displayed at the Polish Aviation troops put on a free show for spectators Museum in Krakow. at Wawel Castle on May 24 – showing off The museum acquired the Junkers JU their abilities for the first time in public. 52 from the UK’s Imperial War Musuem, Before the event, the Jagiellonian Univer- along with a British De Havilland Sea Ven- sity organised a conference to debate the om Fighter. challenges facing special forces world- Faculty of The Junkers has a market value of wide. Loving Krakow? International & Political around 500,000 zł, and was restored by Deputy Defence Minister Robert Ku- Want to stay? Studies specialists in the UK. It bears the markings piecki was in Krakow during the celebra- Come study here and Institute of of the Mediterranean arm of the Luftwaffe. tions, to take questions from reporters. discover the new Europe European Studies It will be on display during the Polish Avia- Asked about Poland’s ongoing role in tion Museum’s air show, in late June. Afghanistan, he said: “By 2014, NATO will end its engagement [in Afghanistan]. Any- www.euroculturekrakow.com Bailiffs visit Gessler restaurant thing concerning the position after 2014 is 2 years | 120 ECTS | Joint Degree Guests at one of Krakow’s most prominent currently the subject of discussions within hotels were deprived of cutlery and crock- NATO.” MA in International ery… when bailiffs turned up to seize Mr Kupiecki added that it was too early Relations: Europe www.visegradstudies.eu equipment. to speculate further on the commit- in the Visegrad 2 years | 120 ECTS | Joint Degree The court-appointed team arrived at ments of Polish and other NATO forces in Perspective Restauracja Gessler, in Hotel Francuski, at Afghanistan. 6

■ Marcin Hyła

Don’t miss it: on Sunday, June 9, bring your bike and risk of getting your wheels caught in the ruts. Ignore any drivers who honk – it’s join the massive Cycling Day (Święto Cykliczne) ral- just proof that they see you. Many one-way streets are also open to pedal bikes ly and ride that starts at midday from Plac Józefa in both directions. Just look for the road signs. Nowaka Jeziorańskiego – the square in front of the railway station. There are a lot of cycle paths in Nowa Huta, but they are poorly connected. A new cycle track is currently under construction on ul. Bora-Komorowskiego, Cycling Day is an annual event with roots that go back to the late 1980s. Last and another missing link will soon be completed on ul. Andersa. Hopefully, ul. year, about 1,500 cyclists turned up to ride through the streets of Krakow. This Mogilska will get its long-awaited cycle path in 2014, which will mean you can year, the theme of the rally is ‘Connecting Krakow.’ The route is cleared of motor cycle all the way from the Rynek to Pl. Centralny legally and away from annoy- traffic, which makes for a peaceful trip along usually busy streets. Similar rallies ing traffic. take place on the same day in cities across Poland. Krowodrza is quite cycle friendly, even without many dedicated paths – just As cycle traffic continues to grow, the city’s infrastructure is lagging behind, and avoid bu sy ul. Czarnowiejska and ul. Nawojki. There is a cycle path on ul. Armii many regions remain inaccessible by bike. The Miasta dla Rowerów (Cities for Krajowej leading to the Widok estate. Bicycles) advocacy group is calling for new traffic engineering regulations to facilitate urban cycling. It is the southern parts of Krakow that are really problematic for cyclists. There is little or no cycling infrastructure, plus steep hills and arterial roads jammed with The rally finishes at the Korona Stadium in Podgórze, but the fun doesn’t end speeding cars. You may want to put your bike on a tram or a bus (legal and free, there – stay for the Bike Festival! There is even a prize for the best fancy dress but the driver can ask you to leave if the vehicle is too crowded) and travel to costume worn on the day, and don’t forget that you can dress your bike up too. more friendly regions. A few buses have exterior bicycle racks, but you must ask the driver for help. Perhaps the ultimate southern Krakow cycle path is the Trasa Where to Cycle in Krakow Tyniecka, which runs all way from Wawel Castle to Tyniec Abbey. A similar route has recently opened on the north bank of the Wisła. Google Maps has recently added cycle routes for Krakow, and other Polish cities. It’s useful information, but not always accurate. A better option for planning a The ‘Secret’ Tunnel route through the city may be: ibikekrakow.com/mapa/. The green lines indi- cate dedicated cycling paths and the red lines are suggested routes in mixed There is an extremely useful but little known cycle tunnel that provides an easy traffic. way to cross the railway tracks that bisect the north of Krakow. Situated just north of Galeria Krakowska, you can find the tunnel by leaving the cycle path Cycling in downtown Krakow, in Krowodrza and in Stare Podgórze is relatively in front of Politechnika Krakowska, on ul. Warszawska, and crossing ul. Pawia easy, with many traffic-free or traffic-calmed streets now established. Cycling in toward the railways tracks behind the vast and dusty parking lot. The tunnel parks is also legal. Narrow ul. Długa, ul. Karmelicka and ul Zwierzyniecka can be emerges at a roundabout below the ul. Wita Stwosza flyover. From there, you a challenge for those unaccustomed to negotiating tram tracks. The key is to can follow the marked cycle path to Rondo Mogilskie and its excellent, segre- cycle in the middle of the tracks – you will have more elbow room and avoid the gated routes well away from the cars. YELP KRAKOW

■ Filip Gaska ver been to a restaurant and seen (you know who you are). Although Yelp is Esomeone take thousands of photos of definitely not a dating site, it does bring their meal before tasting it? Chances are, together people who have similar outlooks they’re a Yelper – a user of the local busi- on life, those that enjoy sharing their expe- ness review site that started in San Fran- riences of local businesses and those that cisco in 2004 and arrived in Krakow in Oc- love the area and community they live in. tober of last year. Ask a Yelper how to eat a One of the more rewarding experiences steak and no doubt he will tell you a knife, a has been the interaction with local Kra- fork and a smartphone are required. kow business owners and managers. I ex- Four months ago, I became the Commu- pected hesitation and reluctance towards nity Manager of Yelp in Krakow. My job is yet another social media portal, but what focused on growing the Yelp Community I encountered was a great deal of enthusi- in Krakow. I welcome newcomers to the asm. If there was scepticism, it was about site, organise parties and get-togethers for whether all the tools offered are really free Yelpers to blend the online and offline -ex and if they will remain so. Many business perience and maintain relations with Kra- owners have come forward with ideas kow’s local business owners and managers. for possible Yelp parties at their establish- Sweet job? Yes, very much so. My dad is still ments as they look to become more in- amazed that I actually receive a salary for volved with the Yelp community. doing something that I love and enjoy so I’ve also learnt a great deal about Krakow much – I think he’s just jealous. businesses that I, like every other Yelper, The Krakow Post asked me to write some- am keen to share with others. For example, thing about the challenges and surprises of I can now proudly say that I know exactly working in this role in the city. which pasture the lamb at Hamsa in Ka- Challenges? Convincing Cracovians, zimierz comes from. And that, yes, Stalowe natives, expats or anything in between, Magnolie are happy to organise a Great to leave their Krakow comfort zone, to Gatsby-styled casino night for Yelpers. venture out of their usual four pubs and So, my parting comment to you is an restaurants and try something new with invitation to come join us, to be a part of people they wouldn’t normally encounter. this growing and thriving community in Not to gossip, but those that took the leap Krakow and in over 100 other cities across and became Yelpers, can boast new friend- the world. Share your experiences of what ships, new favourite places on the map of is good and great, and feel free to look me Krakow, and yes, even new relationships up on Yelp – where I used the name Filip G. 8

■ Jamie Stokes

Left to right, KCC players Toby Koschalka, Ben Koschalka, Mark Alridge, Vijay Sharma Like any true son of India, the first thing cluding the UK, Ireland, Australia, India, (Photo: David McGirr) Vijay Sharma did when he arrived in Sri Lanka and Bangladesh. The team’s Krakow was look for a cricket club. As- captain, Michael Launders, played com- tonished to find that the world’s great- petitively at home in Ireland, but most est game hadn’t yet made it to this part of the other members are simply keen of the world, he immediately set up one amateurs. So far, only a few Poles have of his own – and so the Krakow Cricket been lured to join practice sessions, but Club (KCC) was born. team member Mark Aldridge said that they are keen to introduce the game to “For the first year and a half, I was the a wider audience in Poland: “In the fu- only member,” recalls Vijay with a laugh. ture we’d like to take a cricket presenta- But he didn’t give up. “Credit must go to tion into schools. Everyone is welcome Richard Brewster. He joined, got friends to come to our practise sessions.” and associates involved, and began or- ganising matches,” said Vijay. The team takes its preparation seriously, training indoors throughout the winter In 2012, the revitalised KCC began and at the football pitch on ul. Koletek holding regular practices and pick-up during the summer months. “Our aim matches among themselves. This year, this year is to get a decent fixture list, they have started playing competitive play regularly and establish a stable matches against other cricket teams in squad,” said Mark. Members contribute a Poland and membership has grown to small, annual sum to pay for club neces- more than 80 people, though more like sities, including their shared equipment. 20 play on a semi-regular basis. There is a plan to establish the KCC as an official sports club according to Pol- “There are now six cricket clubs in Po- ish law, and longer-term ambitions to land – the Cricket Club of Wrocław, the secure a permanent home and pitch for Lublin Cricket Club, the Warsaw Cricket the team. “We are also looking for firms Club, the Warsaw Kings Cricket Club, or individuals interested in sponsoring the Łódź Cricket Club and us,” said Vi- Krakow’s only cricket team,” said Vijay. THEY’RE NOT jay. These teams compete in the Polish Cricket Cup, the 2012 edition of which This month, the KCC will be playing at was held, confusingly, this year in War- home against a visiting team from the saw. The KCC were knocked out by the UK, the Craig Hardy XI (June 14–15), and Warsaw Kings XI. “They’re not better away against the Lublin Cricket Club BETTER than us, but they’re definitely younger,” (June 29–30). Upcoming fixtures in- said Vijay, ruefully. The 2013 Cup will be clude matches at the Piotrowice Nyskie decided in August. International Cricket Festival (July 27–28) and a visit from a Welsh team THAN US, BUT The KCC’s players represent a fair range in August. More details from the KCC’s THEY’RE DEFINITELY of the world’s cricketing nations, in- Facebook page: /Krakowcricketclub. YOUNGER Vijay Sharma strikes a pose (Photo: David McGirr) 10

5 YEARS OF THE JCC ■ Agnieszka Giś

Krakow’s Jewish Community Centre wants Jewish life and culture accessible for Remembrance Day as another sign of the would return to the streets of Kazimierz. people to know what it is all about before everyone. In just one week this May, the continuity of Jewish life in Krakow. As the JCC revitalises traditions, much to they even get inside the building. The JCC hosted a group of imams along with US the appreciation of elder members, it also lime green banner over the entrance on ambassadors, organized an open discussion Personal Stories creates a space for younger members to ul. Miodowa, in the heart of Kazimierz, is on gender with the Chief Rabbi of Poland, Perhaps most important is the positive learn about what it means to be Jewish. The anything but shy, just like the JCC itself. Michael Schudrich, and Anna Grodzka, the impact the JCC has had on the lives of Sunday school is a place for children who Opened five years ago by Britain’s heir to the first transsexual member of parliament in individuals, young and old. The centre’s attend public kindergartens and schools throne, the Prince of Wales, with the help European history, and arranged a meeting executive director, Jonathan Ornstein, during the week to learn the meaning of of the American Jewish Joint Distribution for the Children of the Holocaust. What could has a special memory of a conversation the Jewish holidays, the rules of kosher, the Committee and World Jewish Relief, be better proof of the JCC’s commitment to he had with Holocaust survivor and JCC history of Israel and the basics of Hebrew. Krakow’s JCC has become an internationally making a positive and vibrant contribution member. After the horror and tragedy of the known institution that seeks to do just what in a pluralistic community? Holocaust, he did not even want to think A Larger Role the banner says – build a Jewish future in For its 460 members, the JCC organizes a about starting a family and bringing new As well as acting as a centre for the Jewish a city that, for most people in the Jewish Sunday school, a student club, Shmooze (a life into the world. Many years later, when he community in the city, the JCC is also world, is associated only with a dark past. club for adult members), a seniors club, a saw the changes that the JCC was bringing an important visitor centre, providing For the past five years, the JCC has been choir, weekly Shabbat dinners, and events to Krakow, he confided that he regretted tourists with information about the historic spreading the message that there is a to celebrate religious holidays. It also holds that early decision. Kazimierz synagogues, Jewish museums, place for Jewish life down the road from group activities, two recent examples being Another meaningful example was provided kosher food and Shabbat services, and Auschwitz. vodka tasting and a Matisyahu concert, to by the Purim Parade, first organised by the welcoming everyone to lectures and classes. From the very beginning, the JCC has help bring the members of the community JCC in 2010. Senior members were deeply The JCC has a large group of volunteers worked to create a space for the local together. This year, the JCC also created its touched to see the return of a tradition they who staff the reception desk and act as Jewish community and provide cultural, own calendar, titled Generations, which had celebrated with their parents in the the smiling, welcoming face of the centre. educational and religious activities, making was published on International Holocaust years before the war, but had never thought Volunteer coordinator, Agata Mucha, who Perfect English}

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Fast, professional , herself started as a volunteer behind the – tourists from all over the world discover accurate reception desk, organises presentations and the bright side of Jewish life in Poland, and Find out more about the treatment for: training for the volunteers, most of whom some of them are even surprised that we are Krakow JCC: are not Jewish, so that they are ready to meet not just here to preserve the memory of past Business documents the wide and sometimes surprising range of Jewish life, but also bringing life back to the www.jcckrakow.org Academic papers questions posed by visitors. At the moment community.” www.facebook.com/jcckrakow.org there are about 30 regular volunteers A final word to Jonathan Ornstein: “Our Or visit in person: ul. Miodowa 24 Website content dedicating their free time to the JCC but the little JCC is having a meaningful impact on number is increased for big events, such as the role of the Holocaust in Jewish identity The JCC in Numbers We make your the 7@nite (commonly referred to as the around the world. Many Jewish visitors may 5 years English perfect Night of the Synagogues, part of the Jewish come to Krakow primarily to see Auschwitz, 243 Shabbat Dinners Culture Festival). but by visiting our centre they are exposed 175 lectures Volunteer Karol Mystek said: “For me, the to a completely different idea of what 18 exhibitions perfect.english@ JCC is a source of social inspiration. It made defines us as Jews. Not by the tragedy of the 460 members me realize that I am not just a part of the Holocaust but rather how life can be rebuilt krakowpost.com 90 age of the oldest member JCC community but also of a wider, global in its wake. That is a powerful message community.” He is also aware of the broader and nothing better symbolizes it than our 4.5 months age of the +48 12 341 4517 role of the JCC: “When I am at the reception thriving, growing, optimistic community youngest member +48 666 203 042 desk, I see the changes that the JCC brings down the road from Auschwitz.” 12 ALCHEMIA ul.Estery 5 OD KUCHNI www.facebook.com/alchemiaodkuchni DROP■ Jamie Stokes IN All photos: David McGirr

Joining the family of Krakow’s most suc- a more restrained, more mature decor than the stripped-down feel of an experimental I tried the ‘Indian curry,’ the chicken satay, cessful pub, Alchemia, and Krakow’s most the vampire movie set dressings that clutter poem, listing just 22 items and featuring the brownie with pistachio ice cream and successful café, Bunkier Sztuki, Alchemia od Alchemia. It also has a beautiful picture win- dishes as diverse as halloumi burgers, grilled the aforementioned squid and cod. The bat- Kuchni is a new restaurant with big shoes dow that allows diners to see and be seen watermelon and chicken satay, all priced tered seafood and the chocolate brownie to fill. on what is still probably the hippest corner at around 25 złoty. Expect these to change appear to have arrived in the world com- The restaurant’s name is worth some expla- in Poland. The one concession to Alchemia’s frequently. Kuba was also keen to point out plete and perfectly formed, but the curry nation. Literally it means ‘Alchemia from the retro style is a mounted deer’s head. He’s that they use only mint-fresh produce and and the satay have not yet reached maturity kitchen side,’ but ‘od kuchni’ is also a Polish called Eddy and, so the manager swears, make their own pasta. – though the flavours were genuinely excel- idiom that means something like ‘behind met his end in a road accident, not as the One of Alchemia od Kuchni’s big ideas is lent, the dishes didn’t quite come together. the scenes.’ victim of a hunter’s bullet. to offer what they call ‘street food’ – classic This is not surprising in a brand new restau- Situated just around the corner from Al- When I visited at the end of May, the restau- snack foods from around the world that can rant and all the signs are that the menu will chemia’s main entrance on pl. Nowy, Al- rant had been open for less than a week and be bought to take away or eat in the restau- fulfil its promise. chemia od Kuchni is integrated, but a little was still very much at the settling-in stage. rant. The current list includes veggie samo- During our chat over lunch, Kuba men- separate, from Krakow’s favourite Kazimierz Despite the lingering smell of fresh paint, sas, patatas bravas, stuffed tortillas and cod tioned several other ideas that are not yet drinking den. The restaurant has its own en- the interior felt settled and calm, and the and squid in utterly delicious batter. The res- ready to be revealed. These include an in- trance on ul. Estery, but you can also get to it combination of rough brick walls and ultra- taurant will serve only the items in the street triguing plan for customised meals based through Alchemia. The food also makes the cool white tilling manages to strike a nice food section of the menu from 10pm until on customers’ answers to a series of ques- trip from one to the other, as you can now balance between relaxed and refined. late, but they are available all day too. They tions about their mood. Whatever comes order anything on Alchemia od Kuchni’s Co-managers Kuba Ignaszak and Małgosia make perfect after-beer snacks, and are cer- of these ideas, I confidently predict that we menu and have it brought to your table in Kyrcz are young and bursting with ideas to tainly worth trying instead of the ubiquitous are going to see some new and interest- the pub. make Alchemia od Kuchni stand out in Kra- zapiekanka. There is also a separate break- ing things from Alchemia od Kuchni in the Alchemia od Kuchni’s own dining room has kow’s crowded dining scene. The menu has fast menu. coming months.

Where: Bunkier Sztuki, Plac 3a Szczepański Sztuki, Where: Bunkier When: UntilJune17 this year’s festival ofthestillimage. for theme the as adopted ‘fashion’ of definition broad the understanding to key the as presented is exhibition Fashion of Limits the 2013, Photomonth Krakow for events of programme main the of Part Limits ofFashion ofKrakow,Museum os. Słoneczne16 Historical Where:the of branch NowaHuta When: Permanent and documentaries covering 50 years. presentations multimedia photos, prises paradise Socialist of Nowa Huta. The exhibition planned com the – district troubled mostKrakow’s comprehensiveof historyA The Perfect City Where: Numerous venues When: UntilJune16 com for full details of events. www.photomonth. Visit: frame. the enters of Europe’s greatest festivals of photography thecitytosay ‘cheese’well into Juneoneas areintown for Krakow Photomonth, asking world-renownedphotographersand Local Krakow Photomonth Exhibitions CULTURAL 14 PARTNERS - In the year that marks the 175th anniver 175th the marks that year the In Jan Matejko Where: Główny ICC, 25 Rynek When: UntilAugust 11 ofart. works temporary con- as well as centuries 19th the to 16th the from prints 150 some together brings exhibition The jobs.’ ‘women’s of tations represen- allegorical and symbolic alistic, re- survey to is exhibition this of idea The A Woman’s Work ul.Where: Lipowa 4 MOCAK, When: UntilSeptember 29 value iscreated andtheethicsofsuccess. how as such questions addressing artists international and Polish of dozens from work features It life. everyday of context the endeavourin artistic putting series a in third the is MOCAK at exhibition new This Economics inArt Where: Matejko House,Where: 41 ul. Matejko Floriańska When: UntilSeptember 15 with Poland’s greatest painter. connected objects many and work his of Museum in Krakow is holding an exhibition 120th anniversary of his death, the National the and Matejko, Jan of birth the of sary - Where: Ethnographic Museum, Plac Wolnica 1 When: UntilSeptember 29 of. wereit, andthesocietiesthey part worewho people the about us tell can ing cloth- historical what at looking exhibition an with idea the to warmed has Museum Ethnographic the year, this theme its as fashion taking Photomonth Krakow With The architecture of clothing Where: Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18 When: Ongoing and Adam Niburski. Pikaso, Rejs, Mikołaj Paczkowski, Dariusz Nawer,including: artists from areas display Museum’s Galcia the of one for missioned com- and sense broadest its in culture ish - Jew by inspired murals of exhibition An Jewish Street Art Where: Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18 When: Permanent exhibition years to compile. and present in Poland. The material took 12 mately hopeful insight into the Jewish past moving, ulti- but offerto powerful, bined a com- are Webber Jonathan Prof. by text Photographs by the late Chris Schwarz and Traces ofMemory Where: Wawel Castle When: Permanent will beallowed into theroom. time a at people 20 only – queues avoid to want you if advance in book but 10zl, cost Tickets Castle. Wawel at display on ardoda Vinci’sLady nowWithErmine,is an Leon - art, of work valuable most Poland’s Lady with anErmine Where: al. 1 NationalMuseum, 3Maj When: UntilJune16 StudioofAnimated Films. Krakow endary leg- the of co-founder Antonisz), as known Antoniszczak(better Julian of work lifeand together to put on an exhibition about the come have Art of Gallery National Zachęta the and Krakow in Museum National The Technology isart Where: House, Szołayski pl. 9 Szczepański When: Permanent forms thecentre ofthisexhibition. knacks knick- of collection wonderful and weird a kept she which in drawers of chest giant the and greatestinventionhumanity’s was drawer the said once Szymborska Wisława Krakow’s beloved Nobel Prize winning poet Szymborska’s Drawer Summer Opera Festival Seventeen grand musical and ballet events in 1996, then called Opera Viva!, it has be- eagerly about next edition, and the artists formance of Orff’s Carmina Burana. for an audience of 15,000 attendees – that’s come an attraction equal to Krakow’s his- who perform here are always keen to come KP: Any special surprises for ballet fans the 17th Summer Opera Festival. The Kra- torical sites. Every year, our band of faith- back. Most important of all is the warm and this year? kow Post spoke to Anna Kościelna, Mar- ful guests enjoys June nights packed with positive feedback from the audiences. AK: Definitely worth seeing is the Grand keting and Customer Service Department exquisite performances of their favourite KP: What are this year’s gems? Pas evening, featuring soloists from the Manager for the Krakow Opera, about this operas. AK: The 2013 edition of the Festival is de- Krakow Opera Ballet, the Ukrainian Nation- much anticipated fixture on the city’s cul- KP: So you could say that the festival is voted to Giuseppe Verdi, and the majority al Theatre, Opera and Ballet from Kiev, and tural calendar. Krakow’s grand celebration of opera? of the performances will be of his works, the Polish National Ballet. During the The- AK: It’s a celebration, but also a brand of from Il Trovatore to Rigoletto. A big attrac- atre Night performance amateur singers Krakow Post: Is the Summer Opera Fes- its own. The very fact that we have review- tion every year is the Arias of the World’s will have a unique opportunity to perform tival more than a grand summary of the ers and big names from the world of opera Operas concert at the Arch Courtyard in on a real opera stage with costumes, lights entire artistic season? coming here every year speaks for itself. Wawel Castle. This year it will feature the and live music. We want every opera fan to Anna Kościelna: Since the festival began At the end of each festival, we are asked best of Verdi and the now traditional per- feel special that night.

Krakow Poetry Symposium ArtBoom Jewish Culture Festival Wordsmiths and poetry lovers from across etry and mass culture, loneliness and po- The fifth edition of the always controver- Now in its 23rd edition, the Jewish Cul- the globe will assemble in Krakow to listen etry, poetry after the Holocaust, and poetry sial and never boring Grolsch ArtBoom ture Festival is one of the foremost cultural to, talk about and maybe even write some and globalisation. Public readings will take Festival will, this year, be colonising the events of the city’s year and, as always, will verse this June. Hosted by US poet and place at the Galicia Museum and the The- streets of Podgórze with fountains that close with the Shalom on Szeroka Street critic, Edward Hirsch, and Polish poet and atre Academy and the panel discussions are not fountains and animated buildings. concert. See pages 22–23 for full details, novelist, Adam Zagajewski, the symposium will be held every morning at Collegium For full info, visit: www.artboomfestival.pl. and visit: www.jewishfestival.pl stretches over five days with panel discus- Maius. For full information, visit: www.poe- When: May 24–31 When: June 28 to July 7 sions, seminars, talks and, of course, poetry ciwkrakowie.pl. Where: Various venues Where: Numerous venues readings, each day. When: June 17 – 21 Topics under discussion will include po- Where: Various venues Film Music / Other Baranki for Kids Cycling Day Baranki For Kids at the Pod Baranami Cin- Last year, about 1,500 cyclists turned up for ema is a cycle of weekend film screenings the Krakow edition of this national day in for English-speaking children. In June, celebration of all things pedal-powered. the cinema is featuring the adventures of Ride through car-free streets in support of Matołek the billy goat, a Polish animated greater freedom for cyclists, then attend classic. See: kinopodbaranami.pl the evening party and cycling festival. When: June 22, 11am When: June 9, 12 noon Where: Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27 Where: Starts in front of the train station

Opera at Kijów.Centrum Garden Festival Kijów.Centrum’s long running season of For two weeks at the beginning of every broadcasts from top opera and ballet ven- June, Cracovians have a rare opportunity to ues continues in June with a chance to see visit royal, monastery and private gardens the Dutch National Ballet’s production of that are usually inaccessible to the public. Cinderella (June 6), and Carmen from the This year sees the eighth incarnation of the Metropolitan Opera, New York (June 23). festival. Visit: www.swietoogrodow.pl When: See: www.kijow.pl When: May 31 – June 16 Where: Kijów.Centrum, al. Krasińskiego 34 Where: Opera Krakowska, ul. Lubicz 48

Kino Kika At the Philharmonic Krakow youngest and cutest cinema, Kino Krakow’s Philharmonic Hall will host a Spe- Kika, has gone to great lengths to be child cial Concert for the Young this month, fea- (and parent) friendly. It has just been recog- turing the works of Vivaldi and Ravel. There nised as a ‘breast-feeding friendly zone’ by is also a concert of film music, conducted the Mother’s Milk Foundation and has reg- by Janusz Powolny. See: www.filharmonia. ular shows for parents and tots. krakow.pl for details. When: Every day When: Throughout May Where: ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 18 Where: ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 16

■ Giuseppe Sedia

Go now! See it Solid If you must Avoid

Obława (Manhunt) 2012 Starring: Marcin Dorociński, Sonia Bohosiewicz, Maciej Stuhr, Weronika Rosati | Directed by: Marcin Krzyształowicz

When asked to justify the release of yet another to recount the story of his protagonist, a Polish movie on the subject of World War II, the partisan nicknamed Wydra, ‘The Otter,’ (Marcin director of Obława (Manhunt, 2012), Marcin Dorociński) who mercilessly hunts down Krzyształowicz, said: “There should be dozens Nazi collaborators and performs, often gory, of movies about World War II, provided that executions with cold professionalism. Maciej they explore new aspects of it.” Obława was Stuhr plays Henryk, a former friend turned traitor somehow overshadowed by the international who The Otter must kill, forcing him to examine recognition of features such as In Darkness and his actions and motivations. Stuhr exudes the Rose, both of which were released in 2011, but cowardice and insecurity of a turncoat, while Krzyształowicz’s effort is anything but a third Dorociński is simply impeccable in his role. Set wheel to Smarzowski and Holland’s hits. Obława among forest clearings magisterially captured is certainly the most audacious of the three by Arkadiusz Tomiak, Obława feels something films in terms of narrative and editing style. like an extended cut-scene from a yet-to-be- Krzyształowicz opted for a non-linear structure released stealth game.

Oszukane (Deceived) 2013

Starring: Karolina Chapko, Paulina Chapko, Artur Żmijewski, Katarzyna Herman | Directed by: Marcin Solarz

Oszukane is, unofficially but obviously, based on a director Marcin Solarz’s debut feature, which has dramatic true story. In the early 1980s, Poland was been almost universally panned by critics for its gripped by the tale of a girl who had grown up with melodramatic, soap-opera narrative and execution. the wrong family – the result of a hospital mix-up. The tearful road to acceptance and forgiveness Even more incredible was the fact that the misplaced portrayed on the screen is anything but convincing girl had an identical twin, who she later met at a and puts Oszukane in the front running for most student gathering. One family had taken home the banal film of the year. Perhaps if the screenwriters baby they assumed to be their newborn daughter, had stuck more faithfully to the real life story, which while the other had taken home their newborn did not have a happy ending, this movie would not twins, never knowing that one of them wasn’t a twin have contributed so effectively to the disaffection of at all. Theatrical starlets and real-life sisters Paulina domestic moviegoers with Polish cinema. and Karolina Chapko play the reunited siblings in

Rejs (The Cruise) 1970 Starring: Stanisław Tym, Zdzisław Maklakiewicz, Jan Himilsbach | Directed by: Marek Piwowski

When Marek Piwowski assembled a cast of non- plays a stowaway mistaken for a Communist party professional actors from drifters he encountered official who rapidly warms to his unexpected role on the streets of Łódź for Muchotłuk (The Fly Killer, as leisure and cultural activities coordinator for the 1966), his distinctive approach to documentary cruise. The film is a pitch-perfect satire of life under filmmaking was born. It wasn’t until four years later the Communist regime, with Tym as the dictator than the Polish cineaste reached a wider audience of a floating absurdist state. There are harebrained with the mockumentary cult comedy, Rejs. This scenes and wonderful dialogue throughout as the time, Piwowski even welcomed a few non-amateur passengers are roped into ridiculous and faintly thesps aboard his tacky love boat for a daytrip humiliating games. down the Vistula. Polish comedy idol Stanisław Tym

18 19

Body & Healthy living Mind ■ Magdalena Dudzik

he Monty Python refrain ‘Always look happen to be more introverted, counsel- regarded as one of the most difficult in Ton the bright side of life,’ written over ling sessions and workshops might be the world, poor customer service and 30 years ago, remains one of the best a good idea.” None of the more than 20 the need to relearn the simplest things, pieces of advice ever given, but some- people I spoke to had heard of such ser- from finding a doctor to finding brands times it is easier said than done, and es- vices being offered in English outside the of food you are used to. A counsellor can pecially when you are far from home and corporate world, but they do exist. make dealing with such huge life changes living in a foreign culture. According to Joanna Satuła-McGirr, a much easier. I asked Krakow expats to share their psychologist, psychotherapist, and a for- But workshops, trainings and coaching thoughts about how they cope with life’s mer expat herself, people who move to a are not only there to help you when you adversities while living away from fam- new country often suffer from ‘adjustment are up to your ears in problems. Even if ily and old friends. Michał, an Englishman difficulties.’ This term describes a reaction you consider yourself an expert at over- with Polish roots, was one of the first to to a stressful event or change in circum- coming difficulties, there is always space answer: “Expats tend to look out for each stances, and is characterised by a de- for personal development, improved rela- other, they exchange stories and offer ad- pressed mood, anxiety, problems related tionships, a better connection with your vice and support each other,” he said. to job or school, physical complaints and inner-self, more peace of mind and deep- There are more and more social groups social isolation. er self-acceptance. Karla Peronio, who is and initiatives that can help foreigners The most vulnerable expat group is leading a transformational Heal Your Life® feel more at home in Krakow, including made up of spouses or partners who gave workshop in Krakow in July, describes it the Krakow Expats group on Facebook, up their professional careers, or whose life as: “a life-changing experience to support InterNations, the Krakow Post’s own social role changes significantly because of the your growth and enhance many aspects events, and the International Women’s As- move. “Men usually comes here following of your life so that it can be even more sociation of Krakow, which has over 100 a career path, and with a new, exciting prosperous, wealthy, abundant, happy members from all over the world and job comes stress but also structure and and healthy.” meet regularly to socialize, exchange skills work colleagues, whilst the wife often has If you feel like you could use a profes- and enjoy themselves. to put off her own professional develop- sional helping hand to overcome difficul- According to Spanish expat and friend ment. Initially, she is faced with social iso- ties or simply enrich your life, below is a of mine, Javier, this may not be enough for lation and may struggle,,” said Joanna. short list of English-speaking profession- less sociable personalities: “If I seek coun- Moving to Poland can feel like landing als who will be happy to help. sel, I turn to friends, but for people who on a different planet, with its language

Joanna Satula-McGirr is a psychologist, psychotherapist and counsellor specialising in depression, stress, anxiety, phobias, eating disorders and adjustment difficulties. Having lived and worked in the UK for 10 years, she has first-hand experience of expat life, and feeling like an expat in her own country (www.krakowcounselling.pl).

Karla Peronio is a certified and licensed Heal Your Life® teacher who leads Heal Your Life® workshops (based on the work of Louise Hay) internationally. Her next workshop in Krakow is on July 6–7 (www.magicallife.fi).

Celestyna D. Osiak is a success coach for women entrepreneurs. She also specializes in Soul Coaching®, which is intended to help you discover your purpose and align it with your life so that you can experience fulfilment and happiness (www.celestyna.pl).

Magdalena Skomro is a Gestalt counsellor and Nonviolent Communication specialist with a deep knowledge of multicultural working environments and broad experience of working with foreign clients (www.egestalt.pl).

Jack Panster is a certified psychotherapist from the Gestalt Institute of Toronto and runs individual therapy sessions and group workshops in Poland and abroad (www.gestalt. haller.krakow.pl).

The PraPełnia personal development centre offers both individual sessions and workshops conducted in English. They have an upcoming event, called Mindfulness-Based Stress Reduction, to be led by Michael Sanderson this autumn (www.prapelnia.pl). 22

■ Nissan Tzur

The end of June brings the 23rd Krakow Jewish Culture Festival to the streets of Kazimierz. Running from June 28 to July 7, the world- famous festival is made up of a series of events dedicated to Jewish culture and tradition. Among the planned spectacles this year are screenings of Israeli movies, concerts of Jewish music, lectures, exhibitions, workshops and more. Like every year, the festival will close with the Shalom on Szeroka Street concert, which brings together thousands of locals and visitors from around the world for an open- air party in the heart of Krakow’s old Jewish quarter. Among the performs this year are Radio Trip, a DJ and production duet from Tel Aviv, Mexico’s DeLeon, a band that combines contemporary rock with traditional Sephardic music, and The Yiddish Princess. 23rd Jewish Culture Festival Since 1995, the festival has been organized by the Jewish Culture Festival Society with the Małopolski region as its main partner. The Krakow municipality, the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage and the Embassy of Israel in Warsaw have all given financial support to the festival.

Throughout its 25 years the festival has changed along with Jewish culture. The 23rd edition will be a milestone for the organisers, who have decided to introduce many new elements to the programme in order to keep up-do-date with Jewish life and culture and show the real, not a stereotypical face, of Jewish culture. Speaking about the purpose and The mirror of the festival philosophy of the festival, Janusz Makuch said: “Life is what interests us. There is an reflects the diverse astonishing capacity for rebirth. The festival beauty of Jewish culture, is an unending celebration of Jewish life. Kazimierz, the Jewish quarter of Krakow, the richness of life, and a post-war symbol of Jewish absence, has again become a place of Jewish life. The the profundity of religion. mirror of the festival reflects the diverse beauty of Jewish culture, the richness of life, and the profundity of religion. Our attitude toward tradition is respectful, but we are not confined exclusively to tradition. The Krakow Jewish Culture Festival was We pay tribute to the past while thinking launched by Janusz Makuch and Krzysztof unceasingly about the future. We live here Gierat in 1988. It was the first post-war and now in a dynamically changing real festival dedicated to Jewish culture in world. We don’t care about applause or Poland and its aim was to bring back pandering to fashion. All we care about is the memory of Poland’s Jews and their the standard of artistic truth – authenticity. contribution to Polish culture. The first Our festival is simultaneously the most edition of the festival took place in the tiny old-school, radical, avant-garde festival of Kino Mikro movie theatre and consisted Jewish culture in the world. We never have of a series of lectures and film screenings. been and never will be a klezmer festival, Today, with almost 30,000 participants we are a festival of diverse worlds: the annually, the festival is the largest and most worlds of Ashkenazy, Sephardic, Oriental, diverse exhibition of what is important and and finally of Israeli culture. Only life can creative in the contemporary Jewish world. reconcile memory with the future. The Jewish Culture Festival in Krakow is a festival of life”. Shalom on Szeroka Street is firmly established as the biggest Jewish concert Thanks to a grant from Switzerland, stage in the world. It has become a cult in 2012 the festival’s organisers also event for Jewish music fans. During the launched a year-round programme that seven-hour, televised concert, Jewish offers workshops and lectures related the musicians present the complete landscape Jewish culture, plus a social programme for of Jewish music. volunteers and community services. Janusz Makuch has been one of the festival’s directors from the first edition. Find out more: www.jewishfestival.pl 24

ozens of top-of-the-range motors Dgrowled through Kazimeirz in May as Gumball 3000 came to town. A long range rally held on public roads, this year’s Gumball 3000 began in Stock- holm and ended in Monaco, making stops in Warsaw and Krakow along the way. TV and pop legend, David ‘The Hoff’ All photos: David McGirr Hasselhoff, was one of many celebrity and millioniare participants in the 15th anniversary edition of the race. The Krakow Post was at the timing stop in the Engineering Museum to capture a thumbs up from the man himself. ■ Jamie Stokes May 17 was a big day for Krakow, as the Kra- lected to represent three broadly spread national bitterness scale (yes, that is a real kow Post re-launched its famed Beer of the points along the glittering rainbow of Pol- thing), which ranges from 1 to 100, Ox Bile Month event. Gathering at local beer-lovers’ ish craft brews – or maybe we just got lucky. registered as 104. No doubt this sounds like Mecca, House of Beer, the Post’s own elite The presence of Atak Chmielu in the contest a terrible idea, but it isn’t. There is no doubt beer-tasting team joined Krakow Post read- must have been intimidating for the other, that Ox Bile won’t be to everyone’s taste, but ers, and some fellows from BeerPub.pl, to try newer, beers in contention, given that it was the brew’s extremely rich and complex fla- a range of the best in new and established named Krakow Post’s Beer of the Year back vour is big enough to contain the hyper-hop products from Poland’s growing host of craft in 2011. Sweet Cow is relatively well estab- explosion. breweries. lished but Ox Bile is a new kid on the block. Sweet Cow also proved to be an interesting This being the first episode in the Beer of the Each of these miracles of the brewers’ art one. It’s a stout with a difference, boasting Month reboot, things were a touch ‘experi- come from the more innovative among a bucket-load of ‘milk sugar’ that produces mental’ as we cheerfully muddled through Poland’s mini-breweries, all of which share an unusually sweet and smooth taste. It figuring out how to gather sensible opinions the characteristic of choosing off-the-wall reminded me very much of a Caribbean from 30 people who had spent the entire names for their products. Browar Pinta, for oddity I used to enjoy at my local Jamaican evening drinking. example, also produces beers called Angiel- restaurant back in London – Guinness with Three beers were on the tasting roster: skie Śniadanie (English Breakfast) and Koniec condensed milk. Sweet Cow, from the AleBrowar brewery, Świata (End of the World), while AleBrowar For me, Atak Chmielu was always going to Atak Chmielu, from Browar Pinta, and Ox Bile, bottles Naked Mummy and Rowing Jack. be the star of the evening. It ranks number from Minibrowar Haust. All three were pro- On the subject of quirky labelling, ‘Ox Bile’ two on my personal list of favourite Polish vided on tap by the good people at House has to be the most alarming name for a beers, just behind fellow Browar Pinta of- of Beer, and all attendees got a 10 percent beer I have come across. Having said that, fering, Angielskie Śniadanie. Flavoursome, discount on any beer for the whole evening the first taste makes it very clear where the perfumed and satisfying, it’s the perfect ses- – we’ll definitely be back. idea came from. Ox Bile is officially the bit- sion beer for any occasion. Judging from the The contending beers were carefully se- terest beer available in Poland. On the inter- scores, I was not alone in this opinion.

We asked everyone at the event for a simple 1 to 10 score for each of the beers in the contest and then calculated the averages…

ATAK CHMIELU OX BILE SWEET COW 26

The Photography of Natalia Wiernik

Krakow photographer Natalia Wiernik won Sony World Photography Awards Student Focus Photographer of the Year in April this year. A student at the Jan Matejko Academy of Fine Arts, Ms Wiernik bested competition from more than 230 universities around the world to win both the title and 35,000 euros worth of Sony digital imaging equipment for her college. The ten finalists for the prize were asked to produce a series of images on the theme of family, and a jury of top international photographers unanimously picked Natalia’s portfolio, titled The Protagonists. Ania Wadsworth, Student Focus Manager at the World Photography Organisation said: “Natalia’s work is fresh and exciting and exactly the type of world-class talent we hope to uncover with the Student Focus competition.” One of Natalia’s photos graces the front cover of the Krakow Post this month, and we spoke to her about her life in Krakow and her art.

All Photos: From ‘The Protagonists’ © Natalia Wiernik Natalia Wiernik

Krakow Post: Where are you from? photographer? Natalia Wiernik: I’m from Krakow and I’ve NW: Now I work as something like a pho- lived here all my life. I am 24. tojournalist, but I’m trying to improve my skills on many levels. I’m still working on my KP: The Protagonists series features photos artistic projects and I have plans for a future of people. Do you prefer to shoot human involving just these. This is most important subjects, or was this just for the competi- thing for me for now. tion? NW: As a working photographer I do report- KP: Are there any exhibition in the ongoing age of events, exhibitions, and workshops. I Krakow Photomonth festival that you would cooperate with people in my daily life, and I like to see. like it very much, but in conceptual projects NW: There are a lot of exhibitions that I I usual work with objects, still lives, and rarely would like to see: Synchrodogs’ ‘Crypsis’ at people. This changed in The Protagonists se- the New Roman Gallery, Walter Pfeiffer’s ‘In ries – people started to play a leading role. It Love With Beauty’ at the Starmach Gallery, is more difficult and it takes more time. Very F.C. Gundlach’s ‘Vanity’ at The National Mu- often I have to adapt to the situation and seum, and many others. change my plans. Every shooting session is a new challenge, but I really like it. I plan to KP: Which photographers do you most ad- continue The Protagonists series. mire, and why? NW: The most impressive exhibition I saw KP: Are the people in The Protagonists col- during last year’s Photomonth was Sally lection actually related to each other? Mann’s ‘The Family and the Land.’ Sally is NW: No, sometimes the people that I invited one of my favourite photographers. Relative- for the photo sessions had never met each ly recently, I had a chance to see photos tak- other before. en by Jakub Karwowski, and I was impressed by the series in which he photographed his KP: Photographers usually try to make their wife. subjects stand out from the background, why did choose the opposite approach? KP: If you could photograph one person or NW: These photos are based on intuitive place at any time in history, who or where similarities. I’m trying to capture the atten- would it be? tion of the viewer. Paradoxically, the people NW: I have never thought about it, but I in the pictures do not disappear. I think they know I would like to photograph some peo- are more visible. ple and some places in the present. I don’t want to say who and where it will be, but I KP: Have you considered a career in design- will know it as soon as it becomes possible. ing camouflage? I have my goals and I’m trying to achieve NW: I could say, in my images I combine them. the experience of a photographer, painter and graphic artist. The program of studies at KP: Where do you like to relax in Krakow? the Faculty of Graphic Arts in the Academy NW: The best places for me are where I can of Fine Arts in Krakow allowed me such in- eat delicious food. The places I visit most of- terdisciplinary experience. During my work ten are Glonojad on Pl. Matejki and Mamma on the Thanksgiving and The Protagonists Mia on ul. Karmelicka. series, I learned a lot and gained experience in post–production that will be very useful in KP: What’s the best thing about living in Kra- my future work. kow? NW: I was born here and my family and KP: How do you see your future in photog- friends are here. This is the best thing about raphy? Would you like to have a career as a Krakow for me. 28

■ Angelina Wormus

When the sun comes out this summer, For adults, there is quad biking on a large if you’re anything like me, you’re going to dirt track, another area with a track for kid want to relax and catch a tan while you can. size ATV’s, as well as Zorbing for both adults All the better if the kids can play in unlim- and kids, and a trampoline on sunny days at ited amounts of sand and water at the same Dreamlandia (www.dreamlandia.pl). Not all time. of these activities are in the same place, but if you walk along the water’s edge for five or Make a dash for the Kryspinów beach, just ten minutes, you will find them. a short drive outside of Krakow, when the days get hot, or even now before the crowds Eating options other than the grill bars show up – it can get extremely busy on hot and a pizzerias include a wonderful and sunny weekends. There are a variety of rec- very large traditional, log cabin restaurant Quick Info reational activities to choose from, whether called Skansken Smakow, which has some you come as a family or with a group of outdoor seating and a children’s corner Directions: friends. As well as swimming at the main indoors to help take some pressure off a It takes 17 minutes from the Salwator beaches, which have lifeguards, you can family meal. roundabout to the Kryspinów Zalew throw down a blanket on the grass or sand stop on bus route 209, or bus 269 to and have a picnic or a barbeque. A ten-minute drive from the beach is a small Budzyn, which is a short walk away. petting zoo with a Cowboy and Indian feel Parking: 10 zł For sports, there is beach volleyball, a basket- to it (rogateranczo.eu). It has some animals, Entry cost ball court, and a climbing park (www.parklin. fun for young children and a small play- (on warm days): Adults 12 zł, Youth ticket pl). There is also a water slide that is open on ground. 6 zł, Family ticket 20 zł hot days. Rental companies by the water offer peddle boats and sail boats. In the vicin- Also in the area is a nudist beach, if you’re Toilets: ity is a wake park and a windsurfing school. so inclined. with

Present Their Krakow Charity Golf Tournament & Family Picnic

Krakow Charity Golf Tournament in support of

Saturday June 8th, 2013 at Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club

Enjoy a great day of golf, including lunch, variety of attractions also for children & non-golfers and attractive prizes!

Registration for picnic & golf tournament: http://krakowcharitygolf.pl

Main sponsors of the event: W NOCY A little bit of Polish

KSIĘŻYC i GWIAZDY świecą A TY? KOT O której godzinie zwykle siedzi na dachu ZAKOCHANI chodzisz spać? i miauczy. przytulają się...... Co można robić w nocy w Krakowie? ......

Śpiewałeś kiedyś serenadę pod balkonem? LATARNIA się pali......

Czy wiesz, kiedy jest noc świętojańska i jakie zwyczaje są z nią związane? LUDZIE ...... gra i śpiewa śpią w domach. © by M. Gałęziowska & Accent School of Polish & Accent School M. Gałęziowska © by GRAJEK serenady. TOPICAL POLISH! with the Accent School of Polish

świętojańska (adj, f) świadectwo (noun, n) fotoradar (noun, m) oszczędzać Midsummer’s (adj) school report card, certificate speed camera to save money

Uważa się, że paproć kwitnie w Noc Na zakończenie roku szkolnego uczniowie Jadąc na wakacje, uważaj na fotoradary. Czy wiesz jak oszczędzać pieniądze na Świętojańską. otrzymują świadectwa. When going on vacation by car, watch out for wakacje? It is believed that ferns bloom on Midsum- At the end of the school year, students receive the speed cameras. Do you know how to save money for your mer’s Night. their report cards. vacation?

For more Polish visit www.polishforforeigners.com! New Polish courses starting in June at Accent School of Polish! Tales from the chalkface Dear Luiza…

Summertime ■ Chris Riley “…now he wants to wait before we try to have a baby, For those students lucky enough not to be which has crushed me” doing exams now, lessons have suddenly become more fun. It’s summertime and on the tram in the morning I find myself mentally humming all the summer songs

I know. ‘Mental humming’ is the silent kind they do all sorts of active and artistic things Dear Luiza, that doesn’t get you thrown off the tram but out of doors. The school itself becomes a My husband and I have never had a problem wants to wait before we try to have a baby, does make you feel extremely cheerful. ghost town with the teachers left to wander with sex before. We’ve only been married for which has crushed me. We just seem to be This time of year means educational ex- the empty corridors, relieved that exam si- two years, so I guess we’re still in the honey- angry with each other all the time. In bed, it’s cursions. In the last week, the humanities lence is easier to enforce. Meanwhile, some- moon phase, but in the last couple of months like I’m lying next to a stranger. I’ve never felt department has taken years seven and where in the mountains or forests, those things have taken a turn for the worse – we’re more alone. eight to look at castles, year twelve went to students unburdened by exams, whoop it stuck in a rut. My husband didn’t get a pro- Yours, Mariola the zoo and the Botanical Gardens with the up disturbing only ducks and deer. motion he was counting on, and now he biology teacher, my form learned how to Don’t run away with the idea that the play rounders on Błonia (if you’re wondering teachers left behind can afford to sit on the Dear Mariola, An active life also plays a major role in gen- – it isn’t the same as baseball, though most balcony smelling the roses – this is our for- In a way, I am sorry it is you and not your erating positive self-esteem. You wouldn’t of the class are yet to be convinced) and ward planning time. We have to make some husband who is writing to me. The only believe how many men suffer from poor the English department is feeling strong educated guesses about school numbers thing you can do is accept a short-term body image, and low self-esteem dampens enough to venture out with year ten to see for next year and order new books for those break from your pregnancy timetable, but sexual desire. the film of the book at the cinema rather courses. Delivery can take a while and, once he can do quite a number of things. Finally, stress and financial worries are one than wait for the DVD to show in class. or twice, we’ve started a new academic year For example: does he exercise and eat well; of the main reasons for loss of libido in men All the primary classes have gardening without the texts we need, anxiously wait- does he get enough sleep; is he stressed? and, in your situation, it is probably unwise projects on the go and the balcony outside ing for the precious packages to arrive. Mag- I know this is not a very sexy checklist, but to insist on having a baby ‘on schedule’ – you the staffroom is peppered with pots of dif- ically, they always do in the end. you are unlikely to make any progress if will only compound his anxiety. ferent sizes, each with green shoots peep- On top of this, there are the end of year these issues have not been addressed. The best thing you can probably do is to re- ing through the soil. It’s a cheering sight to reports to write. Even now, the report tem- Regular exercise keeps the blood flowing introduce sex for pleasure only. This will re- step outside for a breath of air and witness plate awaits filling. Never mind, I’ll do men- and the arteries producing nitric oxide, invigorate your relationship and remind him things growing. tal humming and tap the computer keys in which is essential to sexual arousal. You’d be that you value him for who he is, rather than Best of all, in June, the majority of the time to a Mungo Jerry ‘In the Summertime’ amazed how many guys feel at their horni- what he can provide for you. school have five days at ‘green camp’ where beat. est just after exercising. Yours, Luiza Rozk³ad wa¿ny / Timetable valid 09.06 - 01.09.2013 Czas Time

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STACJA / TRAIN STATION STACJA / TRAIN STATION KRAKÓW BALICE KRAKÓW G£ÓWNY airport CITY CENTRE The Krakow Post is distributed, for free, at the following, public locations across the city. Kraków Balice Ekspres We also have a large and frequently replenished distribution box at the Bunkier Sztuki Cafe: Plac Szczepański 3a CENY / PRICES We also distribute to the offices of dozens of private companies. If you would like to receive free copies at your business, Bilet w jedn¹ stronê Bilet dla 3 osób One-way ticket 12,-PLN 3 people ticket 33,-PLN please contact: [email protected]. Bilet tam i powrót 20,-PLN Bilet dla 4 osób Return ticket 4 people ticket 44,-PLN

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Aloha Cafe, ul. Miodowa 28a Eszeweria, ul. Józefa 9 Les Couleurs, ul. Estery 10 Rozk³ad jazdy wa¿ny od 09.06-01.09.2013 Amadeus Hotel, ul. Mikołajska 20 Euromarket Office Center, ul. Jasnogórska 1 Massolit Bookstore, ul. Felicjanek 04/2 ROZK£AD JAZDY / TIMETABLE Kraków G³ówny Kraków Balice Art Shop & IT point, ul. Mikołajska 7 Galeria Kazimierz Info Point, ul. Daszyńskiego Mikolaj, Hotel, ul. Mikołajska 30 CITY CENTER AIRPORT Auditorium Maximum, ul. Krupnicza 33 Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18 Mleczarnia, ul. Meiselsa 20 KRAKÓW G£ÓWNY KRAKÓW BALICE KRAKÓW BALICE KRAKÓW G£ÓWNY Austrian Consulate, ul. Krupnicza 42 German Consulate, ul. Stolarska 7 Moa Burger, ul. Mikołajska 3 1 1 1 1 Bagel Stop, pl. Wolnica 1 Grand Hotel, ul. Sławkowska 5/7 Nordic House (consulates), ul. Anny 5 5.23 5.41 5.50 6.08 6.20 * 6.40 * 6.45 7.03 BagelMama, ul. Dajwor 10 Gródek Hotel, ul. Na Gródku 4 Opera Krakowska, ul. Lubicz 48 7.03 * 7.22 * 7.27 7.46 Bell Language School, ul. Michałowskiego 4 Harris Piano Jazz Bar, Rynek Główny 28 Orbis Francuski, ul. Pijarska 13 7.31 *1 7.50 *1 7.55 1 8.14 1 8.00 * 8.19 * 8.24 8.43 Bomba, pl. Szczepanski 2b Hot Chilli Indian Restaurant, ul. Pijarska 9 Pauza, ul. Floriańska 18 1 1 1 1 8.30 * 8.49 * 8.54 9.12 British Consulate, ul. Anny 9 Hotel Floryan / Vesuvio, ul. Floriańska 38 Philharmonic Hall, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 9.00 9.19 1 9.24 9.42 British Council, Rynek Główny 6 House of Beer, ul. Tomasza 35 Piano Rouge, Rynek Główny 46 9.32 1 9.51 1 9.55 1 10.13 1 10.00 10.19 1 10.24 10.42 Buddha Drink & Garden, Rynek Główny 6 Il Calzone, ul. Starowiślna 15a Pierwszy Lokal, ul. Stolarska 6 10.30 1 10.49 1 10.54 1 11.12 1 Buddha Indian Restaurant, ul. Grodzka 9 Instytut Amerykanistyki I Studiow Polonijnych, Pod Roza, Hotel / Amarone Rest., ul. Floriańska 14 11.00 11.19 1 11.24 11.46 Bull Pub, ul. Mikołajska 2 Rynek Główny 34 Pollera Hotel, ul. Szpitalna 30 11.30 1 11.49 1 11.54 1 12.12 1 12.00 12.19 1 12.24 12.42 Buma Square Business Park, ul. Wadowicka 6 Instytut Francuski, ul. Stolarska 15 Polski, Hotel, ul. Pijarska 17 12.30 2 12.49 2 12.54 2 13.12 2 Bunkier Sztuki Cafe, pl. Szczepanski 3a Inter Book Book Shop, ul. Karmelicka 27 Propaganda, ul. Miodowa 20 13.00 13.19 1 13.24 13.43 Creme de la Creme, ul. Mostowa 14 International Cultural Centre, Rynek Główny 25 Quattro Business Park, al. B-Komorowskiego 25 13.30 2 13.49 2 13.54 2 14.12 2 14.00 14.19 14.24 * 14.43 * Cafe Czekolada, ul. Bracka 4 Irish Mbassy, ul. Stolarska 3 Rondo Business Park, ul. Lublańska 38 14.30 2 14.49 2 14.54 *2 15.13 *2 Cafe Gołębia, ul. Gołębia 3 Irish Pub - Pod Papugami, ul. Jana 18 Roti Roti, ul. Węgłowa 4 15.03 15.21 15.25 * 15.44 * Cafe Philo, ul. Tomasza 30 IT point, Plac Mariacki 3 Saski, Hotel, Sławkowska 3 15.30 2 15.49 2 15.54 *2 16.13 *2 16.00 16.19 2 16.24 * 16.43 * Cafe Szafe, ul. Felicjanek 10 Jagellonian Centre of European Studies, ul. Scandale Royale, pl. Szczepanski 2 16.30 2 16.49 2 16.54 2 17.12 2 Carpe Diem, ul. Sławkowska 6A Garbarska 7a Senacki, Hotel, ul. Grodzka 51 17.00 17.19 2 17.24 17.42 Cheder Cafe, ul. Józefa 36 Jagellonian Centre of European Studies Student Sheraton Hotel, ul. Powisle 7 17.30 2 17.49 2 17.54 2 18.12 2 18.00 18.19 2 18.30 18.48 Cheers Pub, ul. Grodzka 31 house, ul. Piastowska 47 Starka Restaurant, ul. Józefa 15 18.35 2 18.54 2 19.00 2 19.18 2 Coffee Heaven, ul. Karmelicka 8 Jewish Community Centre, ul. Miodowa 24 Stary, Hotel / Trzy Rybki restaurant, ul. 19.05 19.24 2 19.30 19.48 Coffee Shop Company, ul. Sławkowska 6 Kawa pod Kogutkiem, ul. Józefa 11 Szczepańska 5 19.35 2 19.54 2 20.00 2 20.18 2 20.05 20.24 2 20.33 20.51 Copernicus Restaurant & Hotel, ul. Kanonicza 16 Kijow.Centrum, ul. Krasińskiego 34 Sw. Idzi Church, ul. Grodzka 67 21.00 21.19 3 21.24 21.42 Culca, ul. Mostowa 14 Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27 Ulica Krokodyli Pub, ul. Szeroka 30 21.55 22.14 2 22.24 22.42 *) pociàg zatrzymuje siê dodatkowo na stacji Kraków £obzów Cupcake Corner, ul. Bracka 4 Kładka, ul. Mostowa 8 US Consulate, ul. Stolarska 9 this train stops additionally at Kraków Ùobzów station 1) kursuje codziennie oprócz 15.VIII, 11.XI.2013; runs daily except 15.VIII, 11.XI.2013; Cupcake Corner, ul. Michałowskiego 14 Krakow Business Park, ul. Krakowska 280 Wit Stwosz, Hotel, ul. Mikołajska 28 2) kursuje codziennie w okresie 1.VI - 30.IX.2013 Drukarnia, ul. Nadwiślańska 1 Ksiegarnia Jezykowa, ul. Stolarska 10 Zazie French Restaurant, ul. Józefa 34 runs daily 1.VI - 30.IX.2013