National Park Service Visitor Guide Carlsbad Caverns & U.S. Department of the Interior Guadalupe Mountains National Parks Spring/Summer 2010

Creepy Crawlies of the Chihuahuan Desert

Tarantula

by Kristin Nicole Johnson

A f a m i l i a r s i g n a t t h e e n t r a n c e t o a l l national parks and monuments reads: “No collecting or disturbing of any plants, ani- mals, or minerals.” But wait a minute—any ? Leave the bears, the bats, and the mountain lions alone, yes, but surely the centipedes, , and spiders are fair DesertDesert FeastFeast game for the stomping! by Kevin Mohr Well, technically even the smallest and Wh e n p e o p l e t h i n k o f w i l d p l a n t s a s f o o d , named one tribe Mescalero Apache, because found in the desert. Raw Mexican walnuts most annoying gnat is protected within the most people do not imagine the Chihuahuan of the plant that was a staple of their diet, the or perhaps some dried seeds from a Tor- bounds of National Park Service (NPS) Desert as an abundant or reliable source. mescal agave. The Apache would roast the rey yucca to name a few. Mix those in with areas. The founding mandate of the NPS is Think about it; the desert is full of spiny cac- heart of the plant for several days in earthen some vibrant red Texas madrone berries, a to “conserve the scenery and the natural and tus and thorny shrubs that seem to scream pits called ring middens. With a flavor simi- few small, decadent netleaf hackberries, or historic objects and the wildlife therein” in “Don’t touch me!” In reality, that’s their lar to yams and squash, the baked mescal several delicious red juniper berries and they an unimpaired state for the enjoyment of protection against herbivores and their way was removed from the pit and eaten. How- had a berry, nutty treat! future generations. Thus Carlsbad Caverns of saying, “Don’t eat me!” Unbeknownst to ever, in order to have this grand feast, they and Guadalupe Mountains provide pro- most, the Chihuahuan desert that blankets needed the essential ingredient, fire. Not Forget not the hearty bread. No meal would tected habitat for all native wildlife, not just these national parks has several edible plants only do the plants provide the food, they can be complete without it. American Indians those of the cute and cuddly variety. This to have a feast. also provide the fuel in which to cook the made nutritious flour and cakes from grind- means the creepy crawly invertebrate spe- food. Although, one plant would not make ing up seeds and pods of the mesquite and cies of the desert are protected, too. Before cowboys with their cattle and agri- a three course meal, many other plants ac- catclaw acacia shrubs. To sweeten up the culture made their mark on the west, Ameri- companied the harvest as well. final product, today you can add a few jams And with good reason—as well as playing an can Indians lived in this desert environment. and jellies from the local vegetation. Prickly important role in the ecosystem, some of the They needed to survive off of what was Before devouring the main dish, American pear cacti, with their large, deep purple fruit bugs here are just too cool to overlook! Take provided naturally, the native plants and ani- Indians could snack on a few appetizers to called tunas, are used to make this finger- the hawk, for instance. It purport- mals. Plants, however, played the predomi- get things started. They enjoyed nutmeats lickin’ good jelly. Sometimes referred to as edly boasts the most painful of all nant role in their diets. Spanish explorers and berries from an assortment of plants see DESERT FEAST on p. 3 stings in North America. But don’t worry; as long as you don’t dress up like a tarantula for the day, the large blue-black will avoid Surfing the Guadalupes: you in their flight over the desert landscape. The female tarantula hawks are seeking tarantula burrows, hoping to lure out taran- The Story of an Ancient Sea tulas they can use as hosts for their eggs. The by William Leggett and range topography of west Texas and form between them. The result is a topogra- battle between the two can be quite long, but southern New Mexico is actually the result phy where isolated ranges stretch between the tarantula hawk is usually the victor due To walk on the Earth is to walk on a living of tectonic upheaval as the southwestern deep basins, filled with the debris eroded off to the paralyzing sting she inflicts upon her past, on the open pages of history. margin of North America slowly expands the rising peaks. This process has been the opponent. She will then drag her prize back —Linda Hogan, in Dwellings: A Spiritual His- and breaks apart. Approximately 30 million dominant force of landscape formation in to a pre-dug burrow, lay her eggs in the still- tory of the Living World years ago, the compression and uplift which the southwest for millions of years. living tarantula, and cover the den back up raised the Rocky Mountains ended. In the again. When the eggs hatch into larvae, the So m e o n e o n c e a s k e d i f t h e m o u n t a i n s o f absence of this pressure, the crust gradually There is a place, however, where the basin defeated tarantula will be their first meal. the southwest were once islands and the began to relax, resulting in the formation is the floor of an ancient sea and the moun- broad valleys stretching between them the of deep cracks in the Earth’s crust. These tains rising above are the edge of a long Another icon of the Southwest is the giant ancient sea floor. It’s not difficult to imagine cracks, or faults, allowed the crust to settle extinct coastline. This place, perhaps the desert centipede. It is an you this, as the isolated ranges truly resemble as it responded to the slow stretching of the only place in the world where an entire fos- don’t want to mess around with. It can reach an ancient archipelago now laid bare in continent. As some portions of the crust silized seascape has been resurrected, is the lengths of 6-8 inches, has sharp, poisonous the absence of some long departed sea. sank along the faults, others were pushed Guadalupe Mountains. claws capable of lacerating and inflaming This, however is not the case. The basin up, causing mountains to rise and valleys to see SURFING the GUADALUPES on p. 7 see CREEPY CRAWLERS on p. 3 Pages 4-5 Page 5 Page 6 Inside Cave Tours Bat Flight Info Hiking Info Contact Information 2

Artists of Carlsbad Caverns 3

Cave Tours 4-5

Hiking the Guadalupes 6

Area Attractions 8 NPS Photo/Peter Jones Photo/Peter NPS NPS Photo/Nick Hristov Photo/Nick NPS NPS Photo /Dave Bieri /Dave Photo NPS Greetings

Welcome to carlsbad caverns and guadalupe Moun- Guadalupe Mountains National Park has over 80 miles of hiking tains National Parks. Carlsbad Caverns National Park, a World trails to explore, ranging from wheelchair accessible paths to strenu- Heritage Site since 1995, features a spectacular cave system of highly ous mountain hikes, including an 8.4 mile roundtrip hike to Texas’ decorated chambers. Guadalupe Mountains National Park protects highest mountain, Guadalupe Peak (8,749'). Telephone and one of the world’s best examples of a fossilized reef. Both parks are Web Directory located within the Chihuahuan Desert, a fascinating place to explore As you travel and spend time in the area please remember to keep desert life. safety in mind. Deer and other wildlife are plentiful—enjoy watching Official National Park Service sites include wildlife, but remember they often move across roads, especially in .gov in their web address. Spring and summer bring warmer temperatures and an increase in the evenings; be vigilant while driving during twilight hours. Hikers activity ranging from the graceful flight of two-tailed tiger should be prepared for rapidly changing weather conditions. Hikers Carlsbad Caverns National Park swallowtails to the mesmerizing soaring of turkey vultures . Flow- can become dehydrated in our dry climate, so carry plenty of water 3225 National Parks Highway ers adorn roadsides after the briefest of rains and the air resonates (one gallon per person per day is recommended). Always check with Carlsbad, NM 88220 with birdsong. At Carlsbad Caverns, the most famous return visitors a ranger before venturing into the backcountry. 575-785-2232 would be the Brazilian free-tail bats. Batflight programs begin in www.nps.gov/cave mid-May and typically run through mid-October. Ask a ranger for We are wholeheartedly committed to our mission of preserving and Guadalupe Mountains National Park the program time. providing for the enjoyment of our nation’s most outstanding trea- 400 Pine Canyon Dr. sures. We wish you a rewarding experience in every way. Salt Flat, TX 79847 Park staff are here to help make your visit a truly memorable event. 915-828-3251 They will be happy to help you plan your visit and provide informa- Sincerely, www.nps.gov/gumo tion. Guided tours at Carlsbad Caverns can enrich your park experi- ence. These tours offer a variety of caving experiences, from easy Carlsbad Caverns- lantern tours to challenging trips involving crawling and squeezing Guadalupe Mountains Association through tight passages. John C. Benjamin John V. Lujan Operates both parks’ bookstores. Books Superintendent Superintendent may also be purchased by mail or online. Carlsbad Caverns NP Guadalupe Mts. NP P.O. Box 1417 Carlsbad, NM 88221 575-785-2484 575-785-2318 FAX Volunteerism Makes a Difference www.ccgma.org We would like to extend our sincere gratitude to Carlsbad Caverns National Park the dedicated effort and talent that volunteers have brought to Carls- Rachel Zimmer Food, Lodging and bad Caverns and Guadalupe Mountains National Parks. Volunteers 575-785-3130 Camping play a vital role in fulfilling our mission of preserving our natural and cultural heritage and sharing that heritage with the visiting public. Guadalupe Mountains National Park Carlsbad Chamber of Commerce Volunteers do everything from staffing the information desk, roving Craig Tanner 575-887-6516 interpretation, patrolling surface and cave trails, to trail mainte- 915-828-3251 ext. 112 www.carlsbadchamber.com nance, research, cave restoration, and more. To become a volunteer contact: Van Horn Texas Visitors Bureau 432-283-2682 www.vanhornadvocate.com/community- adl.shtml Junior and Senior Ranger Programs

Many national parks across america offer a junior or patch—it’s their choice. The program is free, but donations are Weather Conditions Ranger program for children to encourage interest in their national always welcome. Carlsbad Weather Watch parks and to promote a sense of stewardship and ownership for 575-885-1848 these special places that they come to visit. This self-paced educa- At Guadalupe Mountains, children work through a separate activ- tional program allows children to earn a patch and/or certificate ity booklet and visit points of interest within the park. The booklet Road Conditions upon completion of required activities that teach them about park accommodates families of varying travel plans. Many of the activi- New Mexico: 800-432-4269 resources. Age appropriate activities are included in the Junior ties can be completed at the Headquarters Visitor Center located at Texas: 800-452-9292 Ranger booklet, typically for pre-kindergarten through upper ele- Pine Springs. Children who complete three activities earn a badge mentary-aged children. and certificate, while those who do six earn a patch in addition to Emergency: Call 911 the badge and certificate. There is no charge for participation in the At Carlsbad Caverns, the Junior Ranger program offers activities that program, but donations are always welcome. GPS Coordinates teach children about the resources both above ground and below the surface (including plant and animal life of the desert, cave fea- Senior Ranger programs are a new development, currently available Carlsbad Caverns NP at limited locations, aimed at an audience that enjoys a challenge Visitor Center tures and history of the park). Younger children have opportunities Coordinate System: Lat/Long to color and draw, find objects on a visual scavenger hunt, use their and wants to use an activity book to learn about the park and help Datum: WGS 1984 senses to experience their surroundings and complete games. Older plan their visit. A Senior Ranger program is available at Guadalupe Latitude: 32.174212° N children will sequence events, complete word searches and write Mountains National Park. Longitude: 104.445855° W stories and poems. Each activity in the booklet is an optional activity depending on interest and age-level. Senior Ranger books are available at the Headquarters Visitor Cen- Guadalupe Mountains NP ter at Pine Springs for anyone 13 years and older. Activities include Visitor Center The Junior Ranger booklet is available at the visitor center informa- visiting sites, learning about the park’s history, geology, flora and Coordinate System: Lat/Long tion desk. Children of all ages may participate and earn a badge fauna. Upon completion, participants earn a patch and certificate. Datum: WGS 1984 Latitude: 31.89370° N Longitude: 104.82214° W Traveling with a Pet? On a warm day the temperature inside a car can kill a pet. Do not leave your pets unattended.

At Carlsbad Caverns National Park, pets are not permitted in the cave or at bat flight programs. During the day, your pet may be cared for at the kennel for a small fee. A citation will be issued if animals are left in vehicles when ambient air temperatures are 70° Fahrenheit (21° Celsius) or higher.

At Guadalupe Mountains National Park, pets are allowed only on the Pinery trail while on leash, but are not allowed on other trails, in the backcountry, in buildings or at evening programs; they are permitted in the Pine Springs and Dog Canyon campgrounds. In any national park, your pet must be physically restrained at all times. Photo by CorelDraw by Photo

2 Visitor Guide Put Yourself in the Picture: Artists of Carlsbad Caverns

Ansel Adams described Carlsbad Caverns as “something that should not exist in relation to human beings. Something that is as remote as the galaxy, incomprehensible as a nightmare, and beautiful in spite of everything.”

by Marie Marek Big Room by Ansel Adams (1936) It’s a h i t ! Wh o w o u l d h a v e t h o u g h t t h a t club with a huge membership—artists and rapher Alfred Stieglitz, asking him to “pray The book Visions Underground—Carlsbad the simple image of a park photographers who have been for me” as he tried to capture the caverns on Caverns Through the Artist’s Eye by artist ranger holding a lantern in inspired by our National Parks. film. Did he succeed or fail? and caver Lois Manno is a delightful history the cave would be so near and of artists and photographers at the caverns. dear to the hearts of visitors Many artists, amateur and pro- Visitors can now judge for themselves as It is available at the Caverns Bookstore in the to Carlsbad Caverns? Maybe fessional, have attempted to they view original photographs by Ansel visitor center. because in the blink of an photograph the underground Adams and other artists at the Visions Un- eye they can become a park wonders hidden in the depths derground gallery in the park visitor center. So join the club and channel your inner ranger—whoosh! The magic of Carlsbad Caverns. The First opened in 2008, the gallery contains artist and take those photos of the family happens when children from darkness and the difficulty of over 40 pieces of artwork that reveal artists’ with the stunning backdrop of the Rock of 2-102 put their face in the cut- capturing these images digitally visions of geology, history, and exploration Ages or the Temple of the Sun. See if you out hole where a face should or on film or canvas have been both in the caves and on the desert surface. can meet the challenge and create your own be and the family whips out obstacles to many. Even to The park owns many of the pieces and oth- masterpiece at Carlsbad Caverns. Move over their camera to capture that Ansel Adams, iconic American ers are on loan. Each year in the fall some of Ansel Adams! moment forever. In that very landscape photographer, who the artwork is rotated off exhibit and new second, park visitors become part of an elite wrote a letter to friend and fellow photog- pieces are revealed.

DESERT FEAST continued from p. 1 the weather due to the chilly winter season, CREEPY CRAWLERS continued from the desert holly, an algerita’s small red fruit you might want a traditional therapeutic human flesh, and has venomous fangs is also made into a sticky jam. drink instead. A majority of the teas made strong enough to pierce through leath- from shrubs like mariola, creosote, and er gloves. And if that weren’t enough, Another good choice of healthy provi- littleleaf sumac, were medicinal in nature to the centipede is scary fast. Its thick sions to go along with the main course were the local people. But if you are looking for yellow legs can propel the centipede at vegetables. Many roots, stalks, and flower something a bit more pungent and strong, speeds as high as two feet per second. stems were roasted and eaten by the early then try gray oak coffee. American Indians They are long-lived creatures, as well. inhabitants. Despite their dagger-like ap- used the seeds of this tree to brew a coffee- Some centipedes may live for several pearance, lechuguilla, Torrey yucca, and so- like beverage. years. tol were good sources of those wholesome vegetables. Additionally, American Indians Finally, you need to wash your hands and If you are lucky, maybe you will come would have certainly included a serving of do the dishes. If you can find everything else across a giant centipede on your visit fruit from the strawberry’s desert twin, the in the plants, why not soap? And it’s quite today; perhaps it will be feasting on strawberry hedgehog cactus. And there’s obvious by their names, the soaptree yucca a dead bat or lizard. And while cen- always room for dessert, right? People have and the western soapberry. American Indi- tipedes typically seek shelter during Tarantula Hawk made candy out of prickly pear fruit, and by ans developed soap from these plants in the the daytime, it is not uncommon to see that using extracts from the common horehound past, and in some remote areas of Mexico, occasional fast flash of black and red as they Tiger of the Guadalupe Mountains is flower, a plant native to . the process to create the soap continues to make a mad dash across the visitor center even considered a species of concern by the this day. So the next time you’re out in the lobby. US Fish and Wildlife Service. Threatened Now, as the feast draws to an end, you may desert, don’t think about the foliage trying to and endangered species listings are just now need something to quench your thirst. grab, stab, and sting you, but the amount of Just remember to give the centipede, the starting to include invertebrates around the There are many plants that can provide an food, nourishment, and other vital supplies tarantula hawk, and all their buggy brethren world, so it is only a matter of time before after dinner drink. For example, as implied they can actually offer. However, please wide berth. For not only are some inverte- the overlooked critters crawling beneath the by its name, Mormon tea. The name was remember that the flora of the Chihuahuan brates dangerous, they are also federally pro- prickly pear are given more of the attention derived from Utah pioneers that dried the Desert is protected in the park and is not to tected within park bounds. The Guadalupe and respect they deserve. stems to make the tea. If you are a bit under be collected or damaged. Bon appétit!

Visitor Guide 3 Summer Hours Carlsbad Caverns Cave Tours (May 28 to September 6) Natural Entrance 8:30 - 3:30 Big Room 8:30 - 5:00 Visitor Center 8:00 - 7:00

Spring, Fall & Winter Hours Natural Entrance 8:30 - 2:00 Big Room 8:30 - 3:30 Visitor Center 8:00 - 5:00

Entrance Fees Adults—age 16 and older...... $6.00 NPS Photo/Peter Jones Photo/Peter NPS NPS Photo/Peter Jones Photo/Peter NPS Children—15 and younger...... free Jones Photo/Peter NPS plus Audio Guide...... $3.00 Natural entrance self-guided route Big Room Self-Guided Route king’s palace guided tour Length: 1.25 miles, 1 hour Length: 1.25 miles, 1.5 hours Length: 1 mile, 1.5 hours There is no entrance fee for those who Fee: Entrance Fee Fee: Entrance Fee Fee: Entrance Fee and $8.00 Tour Ticket own any of the following passes (up to This hike is similar to walking into a steep Descend by elevator to start the tour in the (Half price for children and Senior Pass three individuals plus the cardholder): The Annual Pass, Senior Pass, Access canyon (a descent of about 800 feet in one Underground Rest Area. The non-skid trail cardholders) Pass (all three are part of the America mile). It is recommended only for those is paved and mostly level, although there Tours depart from the Underground Rest the Beautiful—National Parks & Federal physically fit and healthy; sturdy footwear are a couple of short, steep hills. All visitors Area. Tickets may be purchased at the visitor Recreational Lands Pass), Golden Age required. Highlights include the Natural to Carlsbad Cavern should experience this center; however, reservations are recom- Passport and Golden Access Passport all Entrance, Devil’s Spring, Whale’s Mouth, tour. Highlights include the Lion’s Tail, Hall mended. You will visit four highly decorated cover the basic entrance fee. Pass holders and Iceberg Rock. of Giants, Bottomless Pit, and Rock of Ages. chambers: King’s Palace, Papoose Room, must still obtain entry tickets. This trail can be navigated by wheelchairs, Queen’s Chamber and Green Lake Room. with assistance. The park does not provide The tour guide will turn out the lights for Entrance fee applies to self-guided tours. wheelchairs. This trail can also be accessed a blackout experience. The trail is paved; Guided tours require an additional fee. after hiking the 1.25-mile Natural Entrance however, there is a steep hill that you must Self-Guided Route. walk down and then back up. All fees and tours are subject to change.

Reservations We recommend that you make reserva- tions for guided tours at least six weeks in advance. Some tours fill quickly. Reserva- tions are not necessary for self-guided tours. To make reservations call the Na- tional Park Reservation System at: 877-444-6777 or visit www.Recreation.gov

Have a Safe Tour

Cave temperature is 56° F (13° C) year- Jones Photo/Peter NPS Jones Photo/Peter NPS Pate Photo/Dale NPS round. A light jacket or sweater and good Left hand Tunnel Lower cave Slaughter canyon cave walking shoes are recommended. Do not Fee: Entrance Fee and $7.00 Tour Ticket Fee: Entrance Fee and $20.00 Tour Ticket Fee: $15.00 Tour Ticket wear sandals. For your safety: (Half price for children and Senior Pass (Half price for children and Senior Pass (Half price for children and Senior Pass cardholders) cardholders) cardholders) • Stay on the paved trail. On this lantern-lit tour your guide will high- This moderately strenuous tour begins with This strenuous tour is through a well-dec- • Supervise children closely; children light cavern history, formations, cave pools a ranger-supervised descent down a 10-foot orated backcountry cave. It is mandatory under 16 must remain with an adult and Permian Age fossils. Moderately difficult flowstone slope using a knotted rope, fol- for each person to bring a minimum of a at all times. on dirt trail and uneven ground. Be aware lowed by a 50-foot series of three ladders. heavy duty two C-cell battery flashlight with • Ask park rangers for help. that the dirt trail winds over small uneven Bring gloves, four new AA alkaline batteries fresh batteries. An additional headlamp is • Take prescribed medications with or slippery slopes and careful footing is you. per person and optional kneepads. The park also recommended. Penlights are not suffi- • High humidity in the cave can affect required to avoid cavern pools and fragile provides helmets and headlamps. Tour de- cient. The route is slippery, muddy and may respiratory problems; bring your formations. Lanterns are provided. Tour parts from the Underground Rest Area. You require an ascent of a 15-foot slope using a inhaler just in case. departs from the Underground Rest Area. will see cave pools and beautiful formations. knotted rope. • If you are diabetic, be sure you have eaten enough calories. Do not drive to the visitor center for this cave • If you have an infant with you, child- tour. carrying backpacks are recommend- ed. Strollers are not allowed. Allow plenty of time to drive to Slaughter • Leave your pet at the kennel, not in Canyon and 45 minutes for the steep and your car. strenuous half-mile hike to the cave en- trance. Attempt this hike only if you are in Protect the Cave • Never touch, tap or handle the cave good health. NPS Photo/David Harris Photo/David NPS

formations; the oils on your skin Jones Photo/Peter NPS damage the formations. Hall of the white giant spider cave Carry water—weather may be very hot in • Never take gum, food or drinks into Fee: Entrance Fee and $20.00 Tour Ticket Fee: $20.00 Tour Ticket summer and very cold in winter. Stay on the cave. (Half price for children and Senior Pass (Half price for children and Senior Pass the trail and wear sturdy hiking shoes. Tours • Never throw coins or other objects cardholders) cardholders) depart from the cave entrance at the sched- into the pools. This is a strenuous, challenging tour to a re- On this strenuous tour you can expect tight uled time. mote chamber in Carlsbad Cavern. You will crawls, canyon-like passages and bizarre Photography 53rd Annual Photography is permitted on most tours; be required to crawl long distances, squeeze formations. Bring gloves, kneepads and four Batflight Breakfast however, please use good etiquette. through tight crevices and climb up slippery new AA alkaline batteries per person. The Warn those around you before you flash, passages. Bring gloves, kneepads and four park provides helmets and headlamps. The Saturday, keep tripods on the trail, and do not use new AA alkaline batteries per person. We tour departs from the visitor center for a the rocks as your personal tripod. Video provide helmets and headlamps. Tour de- short drive and then a short hike to the cave. July 17 cameras are permitted on the Big Room, parts from the Underground Rest Area. 5:00 a.m. to 7:00 a.m. Natural Entrance, and King’s Palace tours. See thousands of bats Please use caution and do not use the re-enter the cave ultra-bright lights available on some cam- eras. Photography is not allowed at the after a night of feeding Bat Flight Program offered from mid-May while you eat breakfast. to mid-October. Check our website (www.nps.gov/cave) for breakfast cost and schedule of free programs. NPS Photo/Dale Smith Photo/Dale NPS

4 Visitor Guide For Reservations call 877-444-6777

Tour Trail Surface Offered Departure Time Adult Fee Age Limit Tour Length Group Size King’s Palace Paved Trail; 80’ hill must Daily Summer (5/28 - 8/15) Adults $8 4 1.5 hours 55 be climbed on return trip 10,11,12,2, & 3 p.m. Children (4-15), Senior Pass holders $4

Spring, Fall, Winter A General Admission Ticket is also 10 & 2 required. Left Hand Tunnel Uneven dirt trail and slip- Daily 9:00 a.m. $7.00 and General Admission Ticket 6 2 hours 15 pery slopes ($3.50 ages 6-15, Senior Pass holders) Lower Cave Must negotiate fifty feet Monday through 1:00 p.m. $20.00 and General Admission Ticket 12 3 hours 12 of ladders, variable dirt Friday ($10.00 ages 12-15, Senior Pass holders) trails, might get dirty. Slaughter Canyon Strenuous climb required Daily in Summer 10:00 a.m. $15.00 8 2- 2.5 hours 25 Cave to reach cave entrance. (5/28 - 8/15) ($7.50 ages 8-15, Senior Pass holders) Trail in cave is slippery, Saturday and Sunday unveven and rocky. (rest of year) Wild Caving—kneepads required Hall of the White Climbing and crawling, Saturday 1:00 p.m. $20.00 and General Admission Ticket 12 4 hours 8 Giant tight squeezes, drop-offs, ($10.00 ages 12-15, Senior Pass holders) will get dirty Spider Cave Climbing and crawling, Sunday 1:00 p.m. $20.00 12 4 hours 8 tight squeezes, drop-offs, ($10.00 ages 12-15, Senior Pass holders) will get dirty Surface Activities Services Rattlesnake Springs Bat Flight Programs (summer only) NIght Sky Watching Facilities include a visitor center, exhibits, This historic oasis includes a picnic area, A few hundred thousand bats from Carls- Full Moon Walk bookstore, restaurant, gift shop and kennel shade trees, restrooms and excellent bird bad Cavern each evening from mid-May March 27, 7:00 P.M. to 9:00 P.M. service. Ranger programs are offered daily. watching. Located 5.5 miles south of White’s until the bats migrate to Mexico sometime in Other activities include: City on Highway 62/180, then 2.5 miles west mid-October. The ranger program generally After the batflight, join park rangers for an on County Road 418. Day use only. begins each evening 30 to 60 minutes before evening of star gazing and talks on the ani- Nature Trail sunset at the park amphitheater, though mals and that inhabit the night. Tele- This one-mile paved, partially wheelchair Hiking & camping weather and lightning can cause cancellation scopes provided, bring a flashlight. accessible trail begins near the visitor center The park’s wilderness offers day hikes and of the program. Check at the visitor center and highlights desert plants. backcountry camping (permit required). for the exact time the program starts or call June 12, 8:30 P.M. to 11:00 P.M Rangers at the visitor center can provide free 575-785-3012. Cameras are not allowed. The July 10, 8:30 P.M. to 11:00 P.M. Scenic Drive permits, trail and weather information, and lights and high frequency sounds made by August 14, 8:30 P.M. to 11:00 P.M. A one-hour drive through the Chihuahuan backcountry camping tips. The bookstore the cameras disturb the bats. This rule is September 11, 7:30 P.M. to 10:00 P.M. Desert, this 9.5-mile gravel road is suitable sells topographic maps, which are consid- strictly enforced. October 9, 6:30 P.M. to 10:00 P.M. for most vehicles except trailers and motor ered essential for desert hiking. homes. Brochures are available for 5o cents. The scenic drive is open 8:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. mid-May to mid-October. It is open 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. mid-October to mid- May. These hours are subject to change. America the Beautiful—The National Parks & Federal Recreational Lands Pass Painting by Wilma Schaffert Wilma by Painting

Annual Pass Senior pass access pass guadalupe mountains np annual pass The America the Beautiful—National Parks The new Senior Pass replaces the Golden The new Access Pass replaces the Golden Guadalupe Mountains National Park offers & Federal Recreational Annual Pass replaces Age Passport. Golden Age Passports will Access Passport. Existing Golden Access an annual pass for $20.00 for regional visi- the Golden Eagle Passport, the National continue to be honored. Passports will continue to be honored. tors who plan on visiting the park more than Parks Pass, and the National Parks Pass with once a year, but may not visit other federal Golden Eagle Sticker. The annual pass is The Senior Pass sells for $10.00 and is good The Access Pass is available for free to any fee areas. replaced each year. A federal lands photo for life. Any permanent resident of the Unit- U.S. citizen or permanent resident of any age contest is held each year, with the winning ed States 62 years or older may purchase the that has been medically determined to have The pass covers entrance fees and is good image featured on the subsequent year’s Senior Pass. a permanent disability that severely limits for 3 individuals plus the cardholder (per- annual pass. Information on the current one or more major life activities. sons 15 years and younger are free with or contest for the 2011 annual pass image can be It covers the entrance fees to National Park without the Guadalupe Mountains NP An- found at www.sharetheexperience.org. Service and U.S. Fish & Wildlife sites and The Access Pass covers the entrance fees nual Pass). The pass is available for purchase standard amenity fees at Bureau of Land to National Park Service and U.S. Fish & at the park. The annual pass sells for $80.00 and is good Management, Bureau of Reclamation, and Wildlife sites and standard amenity fees at for one year from date of purchase. The U. S. Forest Service Sites. Some camping Bureau of Land Management, Bureau of pass covers entrance fees at National Park and guided tour fees are discounted 50% for Reclamation, and U.S. Forest Service Sites. Service and U.S. Fish & Wildlife sites and cardholders. The pass can be purchased at Some camping and guided tour fees are dis- standard amenity fees at Bureau of Land federal recreation sites that charge entrance counted 50% for cardholders. The free pass Management, Bureau of Reclamation and or standard amenity fees. can be obtained upon signing a medical af- U. S. Forest Service sites. The pass can be fidavit at federal recreation sites that charge purchased at federal recreation sites that entrance or standard amenity fees. charge entrance or standard amenity fees.

Visitor Guide 5 Guadalupe Mountains National Park

Entrance Fee $5.oo/person (16 & older) Free for Senior, Access and Annual Pass cardholders NPS Photo/Michael Haynie Photo/Michael NPS Bieri Photo/Dave NPS Bieri Photo/Dave NPS Photo NPS

services hiking camping backpacking Facilities and services within and near Pinery Trail Water and restrooms are available, but there Eighty-five miles of trails lead through Guadalupe Mountains National Park are Distance: .67 mile are no showers, RV hookups, or dump sta- forests, canyons, and desert. A free permit extremely limited. The nearest gas sta- Difficulty: Easy, wheelchair accessible, slight tions. The fee is $8.00 per night, per site, is required if you plan to spend a night in tions are 32 miles west or 35 miles east. incline on return trip. $4.00 with a Senior Pass (or existing Golden the backcountry. Permits are issued at the There is no campstore; bring everything Age Passport) or Access Pass (or exist- Headquarters Visitor Center and the Dog you need with you. Discover the desert as you walk to the ruins ing Golden Access Passport). No wood or Canyon Ranger Station. For those coming of the Pinery, a stagecoach station on the charcoal fires are permitted; camp stoves are through Carlsbad, Dog Canyon is a great Information & Exhibits Butterfield Overland Mail Route in 1858. allowed. place to begin a backpacking trip because Headquarters Visitor Center Trailside exhibits. Pets on leash are allowed it requires less elevation gain to get into the Elevation 5,730´. On Highway 62/180, 55 on this trail. Pine Springs Campground backcountry. miles southwest of Carlsbad and 110 miles Located near the Headquarters Visitor east of El Paso. Open every day except McKittrick Canyon Trail Center, there are twenty tent and nineteen Wood and charcoal fires are prohibited. Christmas. Open Memorial Day to Labor Distance: to Pratt Cabin 4.8 miles roundtrip, RV campsites (including a wheelchair ac- Camp stoves are allowed. Pack out all your Day 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (Mountain to the Grotto, 6.8 miles roundtrip cessible tent site) available on a first-come, trash. Pets are not allowed on park trails. Time Zone); after Labor Day, 8:00 a.m. Difficulty: Moderate, level but rocky trail, first-served basis . Two group campsites are Firearms are not permitted within the park. to 4:30 p.m. Information, natural history 200´ elevation gain to Grotto. available for groups of 10-20 people. Reser- museum, introductory slide program. vations (for group sites only) can be made Preparation is the key to an enjoyable Follow an intermittent stream through the by phoning 915-828-3251 up to 60 days in backpacking trip. Be prepared for chang- Frijole Ranch History Museum desert and canyon woodlands to the his- advance. Campers planning on day hiking in ing weather conditions. Carry plenty of The ranch house features exhibits de- toric Pratt Cabin. A guidebook is available McKittrick Canyon, to Guadalupe Peak or water—there are no water sources in the scribing historic and current use of the at the trailhead. The Grotto Picnic Area and the Bowl will want to stay here. backcountry. Topographic maps, hikers’ Guadalupes. Grounds include a picnic Hunter Line Cabin are one mile beyond the guides, and information can be found at the area near a spring shaded by large oak Pratt Cabin. Please do not drink the water Dog Canyon Campground Headquarters Visitor Center and the Dog trees. Staffed intermittently. or wade in the creek. To protect this fragile Located at the end of New Mexico Highway Canyon Ranger Station. environment, you are required to stay on the 137, 70 miles from Carlsbad and 110 miles McKittrick Canyon trail. from Park Headquarters, at an elevation of Highway entrance gate is open 8:00 a.m. 6,290´ in a secluded, forested canyon on the to 4:30 p.m. Mountain Standard Time. Guadalupe Peak Trail north side of the park. The campground has During daylight savings time, hours are Distance: 8.4 miles nine tent and four RV campsites (including expanded 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Rest- Difficulty: Strenuous. Approximately 3,000´ a wheelchair accessible tent site). There is rooms, outdoor exhibits, slide program, elevation gain, steep, rocky path. one group site for groups of 10-20 people. picnic tables. Reservations for the group site only can be Hike to the “Top of Texas” at 8,749´ for spec- made up to 60 days in advance by calling tacular views. Avoid the peak during high 915-828-3251. Hike Safely... winds and thunderstorms. During warm • There is no water available along temperatures, carry a gallon of water per park trails, so be sure to bring plenty person. with you. One gallon per person per day is recommended. • Trails are rocky—wear sturdy shoes. • Carry a trail map. Other Popular Hikes... • Pack warm clothing and rain gear; sudden weather changes are com- Trailhead Trail Distance Description mon. Roundtrip Protect the Park... • Stay on trails; don’t cut across Pine Springs Devil’s Hall Trail 4.2 miles Moderate. Rocky hike in Pine Spring Canyon to the Hikers’ Staircase and Devil’s Hall. After the switchbacks or create new trails. first mile, the trail drops into the wash. Turn left and follow the canyon bottom to Devil’s Hall, • Carry out all trash, including ciga- where a sign marks the end of the trail. rette butts. The Bowl 8.5 miles Strenuous. The Bowl shelters a highcountry conifer forest. Recommended route: Tejas Trail to • Report any trail hazards to the visitor Pine Top, Bowl Trail to Hunter Peak, Bear Canyon Trail, Frijole Trail back to campground. Trail center. climbs 2,500’. Bear Canyon Trail is very rocky and extremely steep. • Collecting of natural, historic or El Capitan Trail 11.3 miles Moderate. Desert lovers will appreciate the rocky arroyos and open vistas while skirting along prehistoric objects is prohibited. the base of El Capitan. Recommended route: El Capitan Trail, Salt Basin Overlook, and return to Weather Pine Springs on the El Capitan Trail. Average Average Frijole Ranch Manzanita Spring .4 miles Easy. Path is paved and wheelchair accessible. Hike to a small pond that serves as a desert oasis. Temperature (° F) Rainfall Dragonflies, butterflies, and birds are active here in the warmer months. During winter, bluebirds High Low Inches frequent the area. Opportunities for chancing upon other wildlife are higher here as well. Jan 56 34 0.67 Smith Spring Trail 2.3 miles Moderate. Look for birds, deer and elk as you pass Manzanita Spring on the way to the shady Feb 59 36 0.90 (entire loop) oasis of Smith Spring. Trees around Smith Spring include madrones, maples, oaks, chokecherry, ponderosa pines and others. Mar 65 41 0.58 McKittrick McKittrick Nature 0.9 miles Moderate. Climb the foothills and learn about the natural history of the Chihuahuan Desert. Apr 73 48 0.60 Canyon Loop Trailside exhibits. May 82 56 0.91 Permian Reef Trail 8.4 miles Strenuous. For serious geology buffs, this trail has stop markers that can be used with a geol- June 88 62 2.18 ogy guidebook sold at the Visitor Center. There are excellent views into McKittrick Canyon from July 88 64 2.37 the ridgetop. Trail climbs 2,000’. Aug 86 63 3.29 Dog Canyon Indian Meadow 0.6 miles Easy. A guide pamphlet describes ecology and geology. Sep 81 58 2.54 Nature Loop Oct 73 50 1.34 Marcus Overlook 4.6 miles Moderate. Follow the Bush Mountain Trail to the ridgetop for a view into West Dog Canyon. Nov 63 41 0.97 Trail climbs 800’. Dec 56 33 1.05 Lost Peak 6.4 miles Strenuous. Climb out of Dog Canyon on the Tejas Trail to visit the conifer forest above. Out- standing views from Lost Peak. Lost Peak is a short distance off trail to the right before the horse Average annual precipitation 17.4 hitches. Trail climbs 1,500’. for Pine Springs (1980-2003)

6 Visitor Guide SURFING the GUADALUPES cont. from p. 1 as these organisms died, they settled on several thousand feet above sea level. Rapid The slow evolution of Earth is often dif- Approximately 265 to 260 million years ago, the seafloor. However, due to oxygen-poor erosion of overlying salt-rich layers allowed ficult to comprehend. Landscapes, which a vast tropical sea stretched across what conditions in the depths of the Delaware the emergence of the ancient reef and the to us are permanent, become temporary is now west Texas and southeastern New Basin, their organic material was preserved undersea escarpment which once loomed and fleeting features on the ever-changing Mexico. Our planet looked very different rather than oxidized. As a result, thousands over the basin’s depths. This escarpment is surface of a dynamic planet. In most places, then. All of the continents were joined to- of feet of black, organic-rich mud layers visible now as the southeastern slope of the imagining the layout of ancient landscapes gether to form Pangea, a supercontinent that accumulated over the course of five million Guadalupe Mountains. and the complex processes that created and stretched from pole to pole. The portion of years until changing conditions caused the destroyed them is nearly impossible. This, Pangea which would later split off to become seas to recede. To those who have walked the massive halls however, is not the case in the Guadalupe North America rested just north of the equa- of Carlsbad Caverns, there is little doubt as Mountains. In these mountains, the open tor on the west-central side of the super- At the end of an epoch that geologists refer to why such a magnificent feature deserves pages of one chapter in our planet’s history continent. Vast mountain ranges marked the to as the Guadalupian, the channel which the distinction of being a national park. are written in clear, bold print, waiting to be stretches where the ancestral continents had allowed seawater to flow into the Delaware However, to visitors of Guadalupe Moun- discovered. sutured together. A deep depression formed Basin closed. Without a constant supply of tains National Park the answer is not always north of the mountains where North and seawater, the basin began to dry up. It did so evident. Certainly it becomes more clear South America had collided. This depres- not, however, dry up all at once. Monsoonal after standing beneath the towering walls sion allowed the ocean to flood in from the climate conditions on the equatorial west of McKittrick Canyon or taking in the 100+ west, forming an inland sea called the Perm- coast of Pangea provided abundant seasonal mile views visible from the top of Guadalupe ian Basin. This basin was divided into three rainfall, filling the basin with runoff from Peak. The ultimate answer, however, is that smaller parts. The westernmost of these, the the surrounding region. However, during there is nowhere else on Earth where the Delaware Basin was characterized by warm, the remainder of each year, arid condi- fossilized remains of an ancient barrier reef clear, tropical waters, providing the perfect tions allowed evaporation to take over. and its adjacent seascapes are so beautifully setting for the formation of one of the most The resulting annual fluctuations between exposed and completely preserved. There is extensive barrier reef systems the Earth has flooding and evaporation caused alternating nowhere else on Earth where one can stand ever known. deposition of carbonate mud and gypsum on the floor of an ancient sea and look up salt layers. Over the course of hundreds of at the continental shelf, preserved as it was With the exception of a few small gaps, the thousands of years these sediments filled over 260 million years ago. Capitan Reef formed the entire perimeter of in the Delaware Basin, burying the reef and the Delaware Basin and hosted a rich di- adjacent seascapes. As you stand outside the visitor center at versity of ancient life forms including horn- Pine Springs, look up and imagine over shaped corals, twig-like and fan-shaped For over a quarter of a billion years the 1500 feet of water rising above your head. bryozoans, and fields of sea lilies. However, Capitan Reef and Delaware Basin lay buried As you stand there squinting in the bright unlike modern reefs, which are dominated beneath the planet’s surface. Heat rising light of the desert sun, imagine standing by corals, the Capitan was built primarily from the Earth’s interior baked the organic- on the Delaware Basin seafloor in the cold from sponges and thick mats of algae. Over rich mud layers in the basin’s depths into pe- dark depths below the Capitan Reef. As you time, the reef built up and then outward into troleum which then percolated up through look out over the open spaces stretching the basin, forming a steep undersea escarp- the porous rocks of the Capitan Reef to col- to the southeast from the visitor’s center at ment. Outboard of the escarpment lay a lect within massive underground reservoirs Carlsbad Caverns, or from the summit of deep basin, submerged beneath 2500 feet along the ancient coastline. These reservoirs Guadalupe Peak, imagine looking out from of water. In the sunlight-rich, warm waters now comprise one of the richest petroleum the edge of an ancient sea. When you drive just below the surface, microscopic, single- deposits on Earth and serve as the primary along the highway between the two parks, celled plants called phytoplankton thrived. source of oil in the Permian Basin. stop to examine the white gypsum hills just Today these organisms account for over northeast of the state line. Look close and 90% of the biomass in the Earth’s oceans. In On the northern edge of the ancient Dela- count the zebra-striped layers and ponder the oceans surrounding Pangea, and in the ware Basin, uplift associated with basin and that each dark and light pair represents one waters of the Delaware Sea it was no differ- range faulting over the last 20 million years annual cycle of flood and drought on the ent. Over the course of millions of years, caused the once buried coastline to be raised ancient plains of a forgotten supercontinent. From the CCGMA Bookstore

The Carlsbad Caverns-Guadalupe all purchases. This discount is extended to Mountains Association (CCGMA) is a several cooperating associations of other private, nonprofit organization whose national parks as well. You will also receive main objectives are to provide interpreta- the CCGMA newsletter and the Visitor tion for the park visitor and to support Guide for Carlsbad Caverns and Guadalupe the purposes and mission of the National Mountains National Parks (2 issues a year). Park Service at Carlsbad Caverns National In addition to these benefits, you will receive Park, Guadalupe Mountains National a free dvd on Carlsbad Caverns National Park, and the lands related to them in New Park or Guadalupe Mountains National Mexico and west Texas since 1957. To date, Park. Most importantly, your contribution CCGMA has donated over $2.7 million to helps further our mission of providing aid to In this book, Jim White tells of his initial This DVD allows viewers to see and enjoy both Carlsbad Caverns and Guadalupe these parks. discovery and early adventures in Carlsbad the beauty of the main caverns, batflight and Mountains National Parks. The goals Cavern. Numerous historic black and white rarely visited portions of the park including of CCGMA are accomplished through Membership (1 year) $25.00 photos, 32 pages, 6x9.5 inches. $6.95 newly discovered Lechuguilla Cave. educational programs using a variety of 54 minutes $19.95 educational media and scientific investiga- Jim White’s Own Story $6.95 tions resulting in a greater appreciation of Spirit of Exploration DVD $19.95 those resources being conserved for this The Guadalupes $4.00 and future generations. CCGMA has three Stories from Stones $7.95 retail bookstore outlets located at Carlsbad Caverns, the Guadalupe Mountains, and the administration office building in the Purchases may be made by credit card or city of Carlsbad. Plans are underway to check. Include your address and daytime open additional outlets in Carlsbad. phone number. If ordering by credit card include the card number, the date of expira- Books may also be purchased by mail or tion, and the signature of the cardholder. online: The following cards are accepted: American PO Box 1417 Express, Discover, MasterCard, and Visa. Carlsbad, NM 88221 Make checks payable to CCGMA. (575) 785-2484 (575) 785-2318 FAX Shipping and handling charges for www.ccgma.org book orders are as follows: This picture book provides a general over- This introduction to Guadalupe Mountains’ $4.00 for purchases up to $15.00 view of Guadalupe Mountains National geology has explanatory diagrams and Consider joining CCGMA. As a member $5.00 for purchases $15.01-30.00 Park history, biodiversity, and geology. Full photos. Includes sections on cave and spele- you will receive a 15 percent discount on $6.00 for purchases $30.01-50.00 color photography throughout, 32 pages, othem formation. Color photography, 8.5 x 11 in. $4.00 40 pages, 8.5 x 11 inches. $7.95

Visitor Guide 7 Nearby Attractions

Living Desert zoo & gardens State Park brantley lake state park Lincoln National Forest 575-887-5516 575-457-2384 575-885-4181 Come face to face with a mountain lion at Located 12 miles north of Carlsbad on U.S. The forest encompasses 1,103,441 acres for this unique zoo and botanical garden of- Highway 285, the campground has 51 RV hiking, caving, camping, picnicking, horse- fering an opportunity to experience the sites with water and RV electric hookups back riding, hunting and sightseeing. Maps Chihuahuan Desert first-hand. See a large (a few with sewer), a dump station, play- are available at the Guadalupe Ranger Dis- collection of live animals, including the rare ground, restroom with hot showers, shel- trict Office located in the Federal Building, Mexican gray wolf, and the , the ters, tables and grills. Other facilities include 114 S. Halagueno, Room 159, in Carlsbad. state bird of New Mexico. There is also an picnic areas with sheltered tables and grills, unusual collection of cacti and other succu- playground, a fishing dock, boat ramps with Sitting Bull Falls lents from around the world. docks, and a visitor center. (in Lincoln National Forest) Wheelchair accessible. The park is located high atop the Ocotillo Open all year—24 hours/day. Day use only—no camping. Hills overlooking the northwest edge of Wheelchair accessible. Entrance fee—$5.00 per vehicle or free with Carlsbad, just off U.S. Highway 285, and interagency Annual Pass. features exhibits, an art gallery, gift shop, Fees and refreshments. Day Use Only—$5.00 per vehicle Seven miles southwest of State Highway 137 Camping—$14.00 per night ($10.00 for each on Forest Route 276, this 130 foot falls is one Open daily except December 25. additional vehicle driven into the same site) of the highest in New Mexico. Picnic area, Wheelchair accessible. Primitive Camping Area—$8.00 per vehicle trails and restroom. per night. Summer Hours (Memorial Day to Labor Day) Photo NPS 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Five Points & Indian Vistas Last tour entry—6:30 p.m. Eleven miles south of State Highway 137 on Winter Hours (after Labor Day) Forest Route 540, an improved gravel road. 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. A panoramic view of the desert from the top Last tour entry—3:30 p.m. of the Guadalupe Mountains. Interpretive signs explain natural features. Fees Ages 13 and up $5.00 Children 7 - 12 $3.00 Children 6 and under free Group (20+) discount available. NPS Photo NPS Photo NPS

8 Visitor Guide