Patient Ones

.·\ IJll A\V ING OF \\.ALP l

ll\' F RED KABOTIE

describes the people w ho li ve in that vast expanse of su n, san d and silence that we kno\1 as the land of the Hopi and Navajo Indians is "patience." T ime ha s neither beginning nor end for them. It is not a few days of light squeezed in between walls of darkness, hurried moments of consciousness like a fever to take posses­ sion of one and fill one's head w ith torment. Time, for them, is all the yesterdays, all the todays, all the tomot-rm1 s that flo w like a great river from now here to even·\\'here and return. There is no stopping the ri ver. It Ami s on and on and w ith it fl ow the tears, hopes, jo:'S and heartaches that are the fabric of li vi ng woven into a man's Life for man is FR O NT C OVER part of the ri ver and its course is hi s journe:'· " HOPI D ANCERS" BY R AY MANLEY. The an nual P ow \Now at Flagstaff, A rizona, during the Fourth Theirs is the patience borne from that ,1·isdorn . Tn their of July holidays, is one of the 1nost interesting events in the \,Vest. Here gather rcprcscnrnti,cs of Indian land of little rain, they wait for the rain and 11· hen the rain tribes from \ Vestern U nited States to compete w ith does not con1e there .i s no end to ,vaiting. Waiting is n1 an 's each other in rodeo and sports e,Tnts, stage parades, and put on ceremoni ,1! cl,rnces. lt is an all-Indian lot. If it does not rain today, it will sureh' rain tomorrow. show , a spectacular pageant of Indian lore and cere­ rnonialisrn. T he dancers, shm1·11 here. ,ire in rh e dress The wind, the sun, the harsh land are part of their des­ o f the Butterfly K achinas of rhc Hopi Tnclian s. Thev very graciously posed for Photographer Ray Manley, tiny. It is foolish to fret with the elements that form the very w hose study giHs the bc,1 ut1 · an d inrricate detail s of sinews of existence. The stern elements of life ha vc their their costu111es. compensa tion. vVithout them how could one enj oy the stars at night, the ex ultation of morning, the soaring sense of being

OPPOSITE PAGE a part of the free land itse lU A ll things have come to them and all th ings have p,1ssed. "NAVAJO SILVERSJ\llTH " BY JACK BREED. That pie.cure-taking young n1an bv t i1 e na111 e of Jack The Navajo silversmith sits by the hour pounding hi s dreams Breed gets around farther ,rncl faster than 11 1ost pho­ tographers we know. H e's equal!_\' at ho111e in his into metal. It does not matter how long he sits there. In the native New E ngla nd ( 11 0 one should h,11·e 111issed hi s superb photo essays of the Ne\\· EngL111cl countrys id e end there will be beauty. The Hopi whittles a\1 ay at a stick w hich have been presented by our estimable colleague, and slowly from his hands comes a little Kachina doll and LIFE) or the Southwest, 11· hi ch he ha s often shown in these pages. The photograph here was taken at \V iel e that, too, is beauty. Ruins Trading Post, Arizona. Sih-ers111ith Torn Burn­ sides, w orking with hi s crude tools and an vil, but with A ll life is beautiful w hen from the great wisdom of all the patience and artistic feeling of his race, is completing the creation of a fin e sih·er buckle. life you lea rn patience ... . R .C. ORIZONOHIGHWAVS Kachinaland \-oL. XX\'Il N o. 7 jt:LY 19 5 1 RAYMOND CARLSON, Editor e know if you met him you would like Fred Kabotie. GEORGE M . AVEY, Art E ditor H e's a H opi Indian who lives at Oraibi, Arizona, one of LEGEND the Hopi villages burnt brow n by the sun. T he name " HOPI O ANC.:ERS" FRONT C oYER of Fred Kabotie, though, is known far beyond the con­ COLORFUL INDIANS WERE PHOTOGRAPHED BY fi nes of his little village because of his art. Today he is RAY t\1ANLEY AT F LAGSTAFF Pow \ Vow. considered one of America's outstanding Indian artists. Cn: TAKES OvF.R . 4 NEW STATE E NGINEER HAS CO!'ITRIBUTED W e a re proud to show you something of h is work and l'i MANY WAYS TO ARIZO !>I A'S H IGHW AYS. w e t hink y ou will like his story which is told for us by Clara Lee T anner T HE J\ilAR\'ELOUS GRAH A,\IS . 6 of the University of Arizona, who has spent a long time studying the art \VELDON H E\ LD Fl :--I DS :\-10,:'iTAl 'i RA 'iGE ?'

~ 1 15

·""'--...... " PORTRA IT OF HAPPINESS" BY JOSEF 1\ILUENCH ·.. . A s cene in N avajolrmd ~,""'~ Navajo Bridge over Colorado R iver at Marble Canyon on U. S. 89 was built with R. C. Per­ kins supervising engineer on most im.portantjob.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY NORMAN G. WALLACE

Tempe Bridge, which carries 60, 70, 80 and 8 9 over the Salt R iver, is one of Cye's major building projects.

satisfaction and for better service of the state. One of these men to whom we are indebted is Cye Perkins. _ He was born in Carthage, Missouri. He attended Kemper JVIil­ itary Academy in Booneville, Missouri, attended college in Mis­ souri, and his first engineering experience was gai~ed in that stat~. From the very beginning he wanted to be an engmeer, and that IS what he became. He earned his engineering spurs ·with several railroad companies in his native state, and in mining operations. He came to Arizona in October, 1911, learning of the state through friends who had moved here and liked it. Cye got off the train one Arizona's modern highways of today are the proud day; the next, he went to ·work for Omer A. Turney, a land sur­ work of a group of engineers devoted to their job. veyor and Phoenix city engineer. Before 1926, ':hen he _finally became a permanent name on the payroll of the Arizona Highway Department, he spent eight years on a paving project for Phoe1?ix, Arizona, when that frontier town was growing up (and a'growmg fast), and several years with a paving firm in California. After careful study of road paving, he developed a thickened edge slab that has been adopted by all states for general use. W. W. Lane, then State Engineer in 1926, convinced him the state was the or­ ganization to work for. He's been here since then. His first job was resident engineer on the Gillespie Darn proj­ ect, a historically important road achievement in Arizona be­ R. C. Perkins bring,s to the office of State Engineer an intimate knowledge of our highways acquired through years of service. cause it did away with a severe headache to all travelers then­ that of crossing the temperamental Gila. The job he looks back upon ,vith both pleasure and pride is Navajo Bridge, that slim, triumphant creation in steel that ties the Arizona Strip to Arizona and affords travelers crossing of the Colorado on U.S. 89, the only crossing in hundreds of miles. When ( BUILDER NAMED STATE ENGINEER U. S. 60 ( above and belorw) was tremendous feat of Cye Tak!!RQ!!!:c;:AY Cye started the job as resident engineer he not only had the highway construction through very rough country. task of a bridge to build, but the task of getting the steel and R. C. He's a road engineer from the word "go." As resident Pcrl

PA GE F OUR • ARTZONA HIGHWAYS J ULY 1951 arw

B y W E L D O N F H E A L D

~I A rno u11t.1in ,1 hich arches its broad back out of the Southwestern desert into a climate I comparable to Canada's Hudson Bay is worth looking at; and if it has a good road ~ w inding up its slopes from cactus and y uccas to pine and spruce it deserves a visit. Such a peak is ,\ loum Graham, and the highway to its lofty shoulders is the Swift Trail. Buth rnountain and road are litde kno11 n, but they should be ranked among Arizona's supreme scenic exclamation points along with the Kaibab Plateau, Oak Creek Canyon and Monument Valley . Perhaps the reason for the strange neglect of this easily reached sky-high oasis of cool northern evergreen forests, w ildflow er meadows, cascading streams and far-flung panoramas is that it is in the ~uutheastern part of the state. There, as everybody knows, w inter visitors from all over the world bask in the sun and recharge tired human batteries under blue Arizona skies. During the tourist season the as piring summit of Mount Graham glistens frostily and the Swift Trail is buried deep in snow. But when people once discover that the highlands of Arizona's southeastern corner, between 4,000 feet and 6,000 feet elevation, enjoy some of the finest year-round climate in the country the dozen or so mountain ranges of the region ,1 ill come into their own as delightful summer vacationlands for camp­ ing, fis hing, hiking, riding and climbing. The Pinaleno or Graham i\lountains are the highest and most spectacula1' of these southeastern Arizom ranges. They stretch for forty miles from northwest to southeast, cover an area of two hun­ dred sguare miles, and rim the south side of the broad Gila River valley like a giant wall 8,000 feet high. The Pinalenos are acrnally one huge, swelling mountainous mass, rather than a range. They re­ semhle a gigantic ,1 hale half out of water w hose head is Heliograph Peak to the south, the tail West Pe.1 k, and whose back humps up to the final culminating dome of Mount Graham, ro,713 feet above sea level. So this is a whale of a mountain in more ways than one. Pinal is the Apache \I ord for deer, and it is said that the Spaniards called the Indians who rna rn ed the Pinal Mountains, seventy miles northwest of Graham, by the name Pinaleiios. Why som e of the most savage and ,1·arlike Red i\Ien in North America should have acquired the docile, diminu­ ti ve title of "Little Deer" is not immediately apparent-and history does not tell us-but at any rate the name was later applied to the great range which rises so prominently above the Gila River valley. It is still the official designation. The area was, of course, Mexican territory until the Gadsden Pur­ chase in 18 5 3, but after the Mormons began to settle around Safford in the early 18 7o's the unfamiliar Spani sh-Indian word Pinale110 dropped from popular use. Today, the range is generally known as the G raham J\!lountains, after its highest peak. There is another mystery about the name Graham itself. When Lieutenant Colonel W. H. Emory w ith the advance guard of Kearny's Army of the West first bestowed the name on the mountain in 18-+6 he neglected to mention which Graham he meant to honor. At least five worthy gentlemen :i re possibilities, but no one knows ,\·hich. This gives Graham County, which took its name from the pe,1 k, the distinction of being one of the few counties in the United States which bears the surname of an unknown man. The county seat is Safford, a ple,1sa nt little city in the desert valley of the Gila at the foot of Mount Graham. From its bus-': streets and the surrounding checkerboard of green, irrigated fields along the river you can look up to the granite cliffs, plunging canyons, rocky pinnacled ridges, an d round forested summits of the to,1 ering range to the south. There, a mile and a half in the air, is a w orld as different from the nlle_\' as Canada is from Mexico. In fact, there are few places in the Southwest ,1 here the cooling effect of altitude is as strikingly demonstrated as in the Grahams, and a four-hour round trip over the S11 ift Trail in you r car traverses the same differences in climate and vegetation you would encounter on a 4,-1-00-mile journey to central British Columbia and hack. The changes are so rapid as you climb the mountain that you have the feeling of rocketing northward in a super plane at a thousand miles an hour. The S11 ·ift Trail branches west from U. S. Highway 666, seven miles south of Safford. It is a graded, ,1 ·ell-engineered mountain road , thirty-six miles long and wide enough in most places for t w o vown the north slope f Mourd- Graham -to cars to pass. But there is many a tll'ist, turn and hairpin loop before you have climbed 6,330 feet up the ea st slope onto the great 11 bale's back of the Grahams, and a reasonably capable mountain driver is as irnportant to have along as a full gas tank, extra wraps and a picnic lunch. J\!led ium-sized trailers S'1Jord and the Gila~rlQlejB,ooojeet-below,, ,

P H O T O G R A ? H S B y T H E A U T H O R have been hauled up the Sw ift Trail, in Phoenix. But for many years these great mountains were but unless you are an old hand at trailer in his charge. In 1906 he became a ranger on the Mount travel and have scouted out the route Graham Division of the old Crook Forest Reserve, and ' ,·;;,, beforehand, your house on w heels is several years later, w hen Crook National Forest was estab­ likely to be a danger to you and every­ lished, Mr. Sw ift became its supervisor. Seldom has a man's one else along the road. love of a mountain found more appropriate e:x;pression than The Highway junction, at 3,321 feet, in this road w hich bears his name. is on the desert. Temperatures here in .. Beyond, the Swift Trail climbs upw ard, skirting pre­ summer r ise to 110°-115 ° Fahrenheit c1p1tous slopes and rounding jutting promontories. Incredi­ and the average yearly rainfall is but bly high above soars the green cone of Heliograph Peak, 8 to Io in ches . T he s parse growth of topped by its needle-like lookout wwer. Increasingly thick cactus, y ucca, ocotill o, creosote bush forests of cinnamon-boled ponderosa pines announce that and other stunted desert shrubs char­ y ou have left the Upper Sonoran and are now traversing acterize the ar ea as Lower Sonoran the Transition Zone. The cosmopolitan ponderosas are Zone. This is the hottest and dryest of ty pical of this zone throughout the Far West from Canada the seven r ecognized climatic and vege- far down into Mexico, and in Arizona they form the back­ ' tational divisions of vVestern North bone of the lumber industry on the high plateaus t o the America and it is named for the State north. of Sonora over the line in J\!1exico Five miles above vVet Cany on is Turkey Flat, 7,400 feet where such deserts are common. elevation, a natural platform of two hundred acres clinging The Swift Trail takes off from the to the steep h eadwall of Jacobson Canyon. Here is a rustic highway and heads directly for the resort and small store w ith limited supplies. The Forest mountain, ascending t he ari d slope to Service Turkey Flat Recreation Area includes a beautiful, the foothill s in a determined straight well-eq uipped picnic ground, leased summer homesites li ne. T he little road has a big job before among pines, firs and lush fern brakes, and the improved it to scale these rugged heigh t:s and bold promontori~s to Arcadia Campgrounds, two and a half miles down the road. the remote su mmit ridges leaning agamst the sky. "\iV1t h a Recently vandals have repeatedl:7 invaded this peaceful S1Jonl and the3rxn folds { the Gilal?Yer Udleyjmm wide loop it swings up into Jacobson Canyon and begins mountain retreat, breaking into cabins, smashing w indows, the climb in earnest. A he,1cl, high on the canyon's green, tearing out water pipes and taps, and splintering furniture. forested hc:1cl\1 al l y o u ca n sec the tenacious road ·w inding So a locked steel gate now bars the lower end of Swift Trail. the summitef Mount-Graham __ _ through the trees to the ridge. Except in summer, well-intentioned Graham visitors must Soon scattered oaks begin to appear, hesitant at first as borrow a ke:7 at Crook National Forest headquarters in the if fearful of the desert's hot breath. But as altitude is gained Federal Building at Safford. they begin co clot the mountainside w ith ever-increasing con­ The final climb from the flat to the ridge is made in a fid ence. [-fore and there alli gator-hark junipers, with their series of switchbacks through a dark green forest of white blue-green foliage and repti li an bark, act as advance guards firs, Douglas firs, oaks and maples. Between the trees y ou of the vast coniferous forest on the mountain above. Syca­ catch Aeeting glimpses dO\vn the canyon to the shining mores, w illm1·s and cottonwoods, too, venture down the desert far below. The backbone of the Grahams is topped canyon's scr carnbcd, :rnd at 4,500 feet all signs of the desert at Ladybug Pass, 8,408 feet, and as the road swings around have been left beh in d. to the so uthwest side a smashing view suddenly bursts upon You arc now in t he Upper Sonoran Zone, one of the you with the impact of a physical blow. Hundreds of square m ost pleasant all-year climates there is . Summer temperatures miles of vast, spreading, grassy valleys, wrinkled hills, and seldom go above 100° F. and w inter cold is tempered by the ranks of b lu e mountains stretch to the distant horizon. This warm southern sun. Hundreds of sq uare miles in southeastern stupendous panorama extends and widens for the next few Arizona arc in thi s zone, and medical men state that such miles as the Swift Trail hugs the steep west slope, high up Upper Sonnran communities as Bisbee and Tombstone are under the ridge. among the most hea lthful in the countrv. Twenty-three miles from the highway junction y ou l n the midst of the oa l-: \1 ·oodland, w here the Swift Trail fina ll y surmount the w hale's back and enter a mountaintop crosses Noon Creek, is a shad_\· picnic ground with tables realm of spruce, fir, and as pen groves, alpine meadows bril­ and grills beside a musical mounrnin stream. A loop or two liant w ith wildflowers, fern-edged creeks., sparkling air and beyond, the first pines mingle w ith t he oaks. They are Chi­ deep indigo skies. You have reached the Canadian Zone, over h uahua pines, stragglers from I\ lexico, here at the northern 9,000 feet above the sea, and in an hour and a half have li mit of thei r range. Ranks of ,tark, dc;id trees stand on the exchanged the southern Arizona desert for the climate of hi llside, losers in a battle \\ irh vor;icious beetles, but under northern Maine. For thirteen miles the Swift Trail curves them are scores of bright green little Chihuahuas eager to and dips through the forests and parks of this northern take their places. oasis. Whitetail deer cross the road in front of you, and, T en m iles from the junction is "\Vet Canyon, 6,037 feet. if you are lucky, you may catch sight of a bear or a flock It is a moist, cool, gr,111itc-\,.. alled cove where a tumbling of wild turkeys in the deep woods. Whenever you stop the brook hurries elm\ n under arching foliage of alders and silence is broken only by the soughing of wind in the trees, maples. Another picnic ground is here and on a mossy the c hattering of bluejays, or the far-off, liquid notes of her­ rock is a large bronze platJUC erected bv the S.1fford Rotary mit thrushes. Club at the dedication of the S\1 ift Trail, September 15, The Forest S ervice maintains three improved camp­ 193 8. It cornrncmoratcs the visiun and untiring efforts of grounds along the road-at Shannon Park, Hospital Flat and Theodore T . Swift to make this scenic Arizona Highway Columbine. Near the last camp is Columbine R anger Station 7ktrail to tlw summit-/Mount Waham leads ihw-i:5h a rc:1lity. Mr. Sw ift, now seventy-eight, is rct'irecl and lives and a sma ll summer homes ite area. There are many miles of }rests and skyline meadows with fanommas ove-r mos-b- PAGE E l f:I I T ARIZO NA H IG HWAYS JUL Y 19 51 ofsouth-ead-er1!.....fri'yg_na ___ " good foot- and horse-trail s threading the forests and mead­ i\lost of southern Arizona is spread out around you, with m, s, and leading up along skyline ridges. Grant Hill, Grand­ bits of 1"ew i\lexico and old Mexico thrown in for good view Pc1inr and Cl:irk Peak arc superb outlooks, all less than measure. N inety miles to the north is the blue rim of the a lllilc 11alk fro111 rhc road, 11 hilc isolated \ Nest Peak is vVhite Mountains, vv hile further east the rugged Mogollons rc:1chcd h,· ;1 si.\-milc hike from the end of S11 ift Trail. outline the horizon far off in New Me.\ico. On the east The High Peak of 1Vlount Gr:1h:1rn is, of course, the San Simon Valley and to the west Sulphur Springs Valley rn:1g11ct II hi c h drn ws the rnost ambitious visitors. It is as­ sweep soutlrn·ard to the Mexican border. Beyond them range cended In fom-rnilc t rails either from Hospital Flat or upon rnnge of mountains rise and fall like long, rolling Colurnhinc. The forrncr is the more interesting route, and waves- the Chiricahuas, Huachucas, Santa Ritas, Rincons, leads up through sta nds of E ngclrnann spruce, spiry cork­ Catalinas and a dozen more. Sharp, pointed Jhboquivari Peak bark fir and

I' \ <; I·: T F '\ ;\I{ I I . 1 ) .'\ A II I C 11\ V ,\ Y S .1 l J LY l 9 5 I ff. __ . ,..,, ...... - ·,• - · - . ------····- ...... _ ...... ···-·- .. . - ··-·· --·- ··-- -·-...... ------·-· -- ·---- ·--·-- ...... ----·-- .._._,. , _,_ ...... -- .-- ··--- ..• -·- -·- -- -- _,, ...... ··-·· -- -·-- .... ·-·- - ·-=-:=:_, -- -·-· --

• ...... , _ _, , _ ·--- ·- · .,,,, _ ------Man -....-.._ -- --- · --···· - ·--··--·· .... ,_,- ___ ···--·- YOJ Medicin .. -- -- ·-·---·· -- N _ . ___...... · --.. .::=.------··-· _ , _ • - • - u• • - BY CECIL CALVIN RTCHARDSO:--: :::.:..-- -· -.----.--:- BLO C K P RI :'\/ T JLLUSTRATIO:'\/S BY TH E A U THOR

" ... for two days he went his lonely way from canyon to canyon ..."

of a small bird that inhabited the high-walled canyons. mind ascended from the body and was no longer fettered; And that last day, as the sun fled into the caverns of the there was only the mind, alone, now; and its stature grew deep, he made his way to the top of the canyon wall, and with each succeeding hour until his thoughts were only for there in the full glory of the sunset, he bent his head and the well-being of the world, for the good of All Mankind. knees in prayer to the Faraway Gods, and to the Ancient And he willed his "Medicine" to grow stronger and stronger Ones who were the Fathers of all Medicine Men. The last with his thoughts, asking help of all the Ancient Ones to rays of the sun dropped into the purple shadows of the ,vest, this end. " . the song of the chanters broke off abruptly " and he arose in the twilight, and faced the east, the north, the At the end of the fifth day, when the sun began to sink west, and finally the sonth. Then he made his way back to below the horizon, its rays bathed his tired face in a golden the shadowy canyon floor. halo, and as it fled into the Underworld, he sank down on The moon rode high ;-ibov e the mesa and outlined in a baclrn·ard glance, walked unhurriedly to the door of tht The next day Hatahlie Zonni returned home and his the sheepskin, pulled his robe close about him, and slept that shadowy silhouettes the N avajo !rngan and the group of hogan, stepped through, turned and carefully closed the face now had the determined eagerness of one who sees into last night in the faraway, Ancient W odd of the Gods where Jndian singers about it. A dark line of pii'icm trees ran dm1·n blanketed doom ay behind him. tomorrow. By the light of a pifion fire he fashioned a medi­ there are no dreams, and only reality is a dream. to the edge of the mesa and di sappeared in the ,1 ·avering Now he faced the east and gazed out across the open cine mound; placed inside it all of the new medicine he had He awoke at daylight and removed his medicine from shado11 s of the forested Aat table-Lind belNavajos at a distance, In the world of sunlight people moved, lived, and died; Then each in turn uave him his hand, and each one made a the still night;1ir not unlike the: sound of a ,,·ailing ,1 ind, and ' b never o·oi1io- near th em but a,;oiding them carefully. were born, and the cycle started all over again. On these his small guttural sound of welcome, and then subsided quietly it crept into the hogan and mingled ,1 ·ith the nrnrmurecl song A~d n~l\\ the women of his hogan fed him and watched thoughts clwelled, on the Existence of Things, and T/VHY. and motionless once more. of Hat:1hlie Zonni. His half-open lips seldom moved; the him eat in si lence, carefully ignoring the fact that he had On these he filled his waking hours and thoughts, while he The Medicine Man gazed long at his patient, but been a,1 ·ay for some ten days. song seemed hut the murmur of a bubbling spring deep gazed at his "Medicine" and willed it to grow stronger and Hosteen LeChee's eyes refused to stay long on his own. within him. Havi'nu eaten Hatahlie Zonni exchanged his old robe stronger as he, too, grew stronger in his thoughts. There was a nervous, distraught look on his face, and fear Dur at List hi s e:·es gleamed with a strange, intent bright­ for a ne\\· ~me, pl;t on a clean shirt and neckerchief, then After his second day of fasting and sleeplessness, his dwelled in the depths of his eyes. ness. He leaned fon1 arc! and gnecl ,1t the face of the patient departed for the small corral nearby. Here he selected a for ;1 long minute. Then he straightened up and the song fresh horse and placed his blanket and saddle on him. A few from 11 ithin his hod\· ended in a soft, ,1 eary, ,,·ai lin g sigh. moments later he rode out of the corral and headed into the " ... for the next five days he neither slept nor ate, nor strayed out of the sight of his 'medicine mound' ..." Instantly the two blanketed fiQ·ures IJe,·ond him came erect, northwest, ,1 ithonc a backward glance or word of farewell and the·y Aed on sil ent fe et to~ the hla1iket-clr,1ped doon1·av, to his fami!v, nm1 · grouped abom the main hogan. and on .into the night. Outside, the song of the chanters rose That night he made a dry camp in the "brakes" and early to ;1 high, thin, qu:wering wai l, faltered, and then choked the next morning rode down into the first of a maze of can­ off abruptly . yons be _\ ·oncl. For two days he went his lonely way from The Medicine Man waited a full minute while the wa ll canyon to canyon and his keen eyes search_ecl floor an~ shelf of silence grew deeper and deeper about the hogan, inside for medicine herbs. In the end he had quite a collection of and out. And then he rose sl()\11\' to his feet, and ,1 ithout different herbs, grass, see d, and even the _\' ell

ARIZO N A 1-IICII\\IAYS J U L Y 1951 " ... the singers and relatives n1oved silently away through the trees ..." " ... there was a strange fear brooding in the stillness of the hogan .. "

Hatahlie turned to the man and the woman. "You will digging a place for my new hogan, and I had never heard "You will drink all of this," he stated, "and then bow your And close your eyes, and close your eyes, leave now," he told them quietly but firmly, "and I will of that place beina a dead place. But it was so. There were head and close your eyes." And close your eyes. call you when I need you." They gave him only quick bones-I found or~ crusted over with dirt, and I thought it Hosteen LeChee obeyed like an automaton, and when Think not/Jing now and close your eyes, glances and rose to do his bidding. The Medicine Man was that of an animal-I did not look close enough to be sure. he knelt there with bowed head, Hatahlie Zanni began an And close your eyes, and close your eyes, watched them until they disappeared through the blanketed And there was a ball of dirt; I thought it was a rock, so old Healing Chant which legend states was used for the And close your eyes." doorway of the hogan, and then he began to chant one of encrusted with rusty dirt. And I held it in my hands, and Lesser Gods who once dwelled on the earth: the old, old songs, and his voice was so low that only the Over and over this same stanza was repeated, and all then I broke the crust from it and it was a skull-the teeth "Think Nothing now, sick man could hear the words. broke off in my fingers." His voice died away in a quiver­ the ,vhile Hatahlie Zanni was gently kneading the patient's The Evil will con1e out of you, forehead until his fingers and the pressure from his hands The old chant went on and on until it grew a melody ing sob. The Evil will come out of you, seemed to be keeping time to the pulsing words of the chant. all its own, softly on the quiet air. It was then that the first Hatahlie Zanni still had his hand on the other's brow, The Evil will come out of you. change came over Hosteen LeChee. He moved his hand to and now he pressed down more firmly, but gently. For a full hour there was no change in the chant nor the pressure of the hands, except at long last the fingers began his face and closed his eyes with an obvious effort, but once "You, too, will die! " came the agonized voice of Hosteen The Evil will come out of you, closed, a more peaceful look came to his face. The Medicine LeChee, "for touching me. None of the others have, not even to creep slowly, steadily down on the face. Behind the hands, It is draining fron.z all of your body, as they moved downward, there was no trace of the yellow Man's chant died out in a quivering sigh. the Medicine Men." Into your lower body; "Be not afraid," he said, still in that same low tone of "No, I will NOT die-nor will YOU!" Hatahlie's voice paste. It seemed to have completely dissolved. And at the It will come out of you, end of the hour when Hatahlie took his hands away the last the chant, "for I am here, and I have brought great medicine was still low, but now it was conviction itself. Then plac­ It will come out of you." with me. Be not afraid for I have brought the medicine of ing his other hand on LeChee's head he raised his voice in of the paste was gone, and the patient was sleepin·g quietly the Ancient Ones, and the Gods will not be displeased." shrill command. "Corne here!" he shouted and almost in­ The chant went on and on with its ceaseless repetition on his blanket. "It is too late for even the greatest of medicine," Hosteen stantly the woman was in the doonvay, her face frozen of "It will come out of you," until the words seemed to Hatahlie rose noiselessly, went to the fire and sat down, LeChee stated in a tight voice. "I have done that which can­ with stolid fatalism. hover in every niche and cranny of the hogan. And then cross-legged, before it. Quickly he dipped his hands into the not be mended except by my death. It is so, for I have already "Build me a fire and heat me a big can of water," com­ Hosteen LeChee began to sway gently at first, then with boiling can of water; he held them, dripping, over the fire had two other Medicine Men with me. I called you for I manded Hatahlie, and the woman disappeared without a greater urgency. for a moment. '\A!hen he brought them back to his knees to rest there was no trace of moisture on them; they were thought y ou could make it easier tor me-perhaps." _He word or change of expression. But in a few moments she It was then that Hatahlie added one more verse to the chant. "Now go outside and return," over and over, "Now completely dry. opened his ey es and they burned with a fanatical fatalism was back with a few sticks of wood and a large can of water. go outside and return." And like one in a daze, Hosteen It was an hour later that Hosteen LeChee opened his that was undeniable. She kindled the fire up in the center of the hogan and placed LeChee struggled to his feet and stumbled hastily to the eyes, to stare for a full moment at the Medicine Man sitting Hatahlie closed his own ey es to the sight, and w hen he the can of water at its edge. Then once more she disappeared by the dying fire. spol{e again his voice was a \\·hispered chant that filled the through the doorway. doorway of the hogan and through it to the outside world. It was nearly five minutes before he returne?, his fac_e "You told me the truth," he stated then in a tone of sil ence in the hogan with fearful echoes: For a few minutes Hatahlie Zanni squatted there, like white and strained from the effects of the emetic, but his wonder and firm conviction, "I am not going to die. Your a bronze statue, and then slowly, reluctantly he removed eyes were no longer fear-stricken as he knelt once more medicine is truly that of the Ancient Ones." "These are the Dead; his hands from Hosteen LeChee. Beside him ·was his medi­ before the Medicine Man. "Of course," answered Hatahlie Zanni, "I have taken They fondled the Dead, cine pouch, and he opened it and took from it a small Hatahlie Zonni ceased his chant now and whispered the Evil from your body, and from your mind. You are the TVithout Cawe or Reason. buckskin bag. urgently to the other, "Lie down on yot!r blanket now­ same as you were before this THING happened to you. We He rose to his feet then and went to the fire where These are the Living Dead, quickly!" And as soon as the ot~er co1_11plied~ ~e -moved to will not speak of it again. And now you must summon your the can of water had begun to simmer in the enveloping heat. Foi· they are Dy ing Slo·wly, his head and reached once more mto his medicme bag. An­ wife and your brothers. Tell them that you_ are well, an? t_o Reaching down just behind the fire, he picked up a granite lVithout Cause or R eason. other little buckskin pouch appeared, and from this he took prepare for a big Sing at your hogan tomght. When it is cup and dipped some water from the can. With his back a yellow powder and dropped it into tl:e grai:iite cup. This over at the break of day you will load all of your possessions Touch them NOT; to his patient, he undid the buckskin bag at the top and done, he rose and went to the can of s1111menng water and in your wagon, and yoi.1 will take your family and build Feed them NOT; squeezed a flaky, dry powder from it into the cup until the with his fingers he dipped water into the cup until he had a an(ither hoaan far awav from this one. And you will never For these are the Living Dead, water had a grayish-blue cast to it. Then he put the cup thin yellowish paste in the bottom of it. . . come back b here to live. any more. " Dying '1.uithout Cause or R eason!" down and tied the string of the buckskin bag firmly, dropped Now he returned once more to the head of his patient, "I will do that, for you are as wise as the Ancient Ones. it into his pocket, reached again for the granite cup, and seated himself, and began to spread the thin, yellow paste Call my wife and brothers in now so that I may tell them As the chant died away Hatahlie placed his hand gently returned to Hosteen LeChee. from the roots of LeChee's hair to the point of his chin, at once. " but fi rmly on Hosteen LeChee's brow. For a moment the Dropping to his knees beside LeChee, he put the cup sparing only the eyes and the mouth. When this was com­ Hatahlie Zanni rose to his feet and went quietly and other seemed to shrink under his hand, then he subsided, his beside him. "You will get up now," he said, "on your lmees pleted to his satisfaction, he placed both han?s on the unhurriedly to the door'way, and into the sunlight that mouth w orking painfully but making not a sound. For an­ fa cing me." The other rose reluctantly to obey, his eyes a patient's brow, and once more he started an ancient chant. painted the hills with golden yellow and red above purple other long moment he struggled for words, and then they fearful sight to behold. shadows. Over him the blne, faraway sky shrouded a qrnet, came w ith a terrible wrench. With a small sliver, Hatahlie stirred the contents of the "Thin!? nothinp; now and close your eyes, pe1ceful world. A Navajo World. "Tt is true," he gasped, "I ha ve fondled the dea d. I was cup for a moment, and then handed the cup to LeChee.

PA GE F O U RTE EN A R IZO NA HI G HWAYS JULY 1951 fREl> KABOTIE Hopi Indian Aa+i,t

BY CLARA LEE TANNER

J\!Iost of the water colors of Fred Kabotie shown here are from the collections of Mrs. \ Villiam Denman of San Francisco and the State Mu­ seu m of Santa Fe, N ew J\!le:-:ico.

red Kabotie, the Indian illustrator, is a jolly and family loyalties are centered in the home of his mother high school boy w ho plays on the foot­ and sisters. Although he may marry and go to live with his ball team and w hom all the children of w ife in her mother's home, he will always return to bis Santa Fe call to as he passes. He is a natural childhood scene for ceremonies and other occasions. This artist and has taught himself from within centrali zation of all thought and activity is basic in the all that he kno,1·s of art. Modest and retir­ moulding of Hopi character traits. ing, he objects to being mentioned here ... " Too, in Hopi life, ceremonial activities are known to Such was the introduction of Fred Kabotie to the these Indians from infancy. Literally, babies witness rituals realm of art. Great has been his achi evement beyond the from their mother's arms or from the cradle board. Entire simple dr:n1·ings made for the children's book "TayTay's fami lies attend all public performances in the sunlit plazas, Memories," by Elizabeth YViJJis DeHuff, published in 1924, and many secret rites are frequented by the boys of the vil­ in which the above mention of him ,ms made bv the au thor. lage from a rather tender age. As a consequence, one grows Mr. Kabotie has never lost hi s sense of humor, be is still up in this society seeing, hearing, and emotionally, if not modest and retiring, he ha s augmented his native abil ity actually, participating in the religious performances of the \\'ith formal training, and he has constant!_\' reflected inward tribe. F urther, Pueblo tradition requires that the observer, gr01nh in his art, ,1·hich ha s ,1·011 him national accla im. too, must hold good thoughts w hile the participants perform. Fred Kabotie \\ as born in the vi ll age of Shungopavy Thus the rite, the feeling and emotional values of the on Second J\lesa, in Hopiland, in the _\'ear 1900. His parents ritual, details of costume, body paint, form of the dancing were t)'pical Hopi people ,1·ho brought their son up in full lines, brilliance and tone of color, all are indelibly impresse d Pueblo tradition. A few words relative to this Indian life on the mind of the Pueblo Indian. The individual dancer will better prepare the reader to understa nd the nature of stands out as epitomizing symbolic design, as the unit within the art and the artist in question. the w hole that gives meaning through color and movement. Pueblo life is centered around a tightly knit fami ly unit, The group of dancers produces the rhythm, the pattern with the mother of the group at the head and the daughters w hi ch symbolizes the prayer for rain for the entire group, and their families clustered about her. Thus a man's religious and performs as the organized and unifi ed effort of all for

PAGE S IX TEEN • ARIZONA HIGIIWAYS J U L Y 1951 r,~ t .. bof-fe-

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-·-- ~ '- F R E D h: ABOTI E D E S C R I B E S H l S ST U DIES O F HOPILA N D

COUPLE OF SQUIRREL winter social lllO0n, the month of January . HO - O-TE KACHINA KACH I N AS Onlv the girls participate in the dance with N amed because of the sound they make, The Hopi farmer looks upon a squirrel as the lllen folks as compared to a similar dance these Kachinas are among many different a thief in his peach orchard. \Vhenever the of the Rio Grande Pueblos in N ew Il'lexico groups of dancers w ho take part during Aung­ owner is not around, the animal helps himself, w here both women and girls take part. w a in i'vlarch . The sound Ho-o-te docs not and gets fat on the farmer's peaches. But, in mean anything except for distinction. The stars time of desperate need for rain, ,1 farmer seeks D A NCE OF TH E on their faces associate them with the sky its help to im·oke the Di,·ine Powers for rain. BUTTERFLY MAID E NS diety, Star Priest. There is a Hopi song of a fat sluggish squirrel This can be classified as introduction to the ly ing down hea,·ilv on top of a rock, and Butterfly Dance. The night before the dance SUPAI DANCE praying for rain because he is thirsty. all the participants stav up doing rehearsal This is a social dance, an adoption from the in the Kiva (an underground ceremonial room Supai tribe of Indians. But the dancers seem to HOPI BUFFALO DANCE entered from top opening by means of a step­ be composite of Supai and the Apaches. The A buffalo dance is one of the soci ,1 ! dances. ladder) . In the morning, as soon as the sun men wear Apache costumes. The Hopis· ex­ The buffalo is vener:ned for its beneficial meat comes over the horizon, they emerge from the aggerate sometimes and make blunders. diet. The coldest winter moon called Pamuya, Kiva. The girls are dressed as they were the id entical to the month of Januarv, is assigned night before, but the men decorate their bodies GERMI N ATOR God of Germination is being irn·oked by a for joy making. The old people sa y that to like clowns. They dance zigzagging to the plaza in a single file to the music of the chorus priest for prosperity. The Germinator holds be happy is to c0111bat frozen snow and thus and beat of the big drum. in his right hand a full corn plant, and in his pre,·ent sickness. left a sacred stall. The rain symbol is directly TH E HOME KACHINA DANCE over his head. The sun is in the upper right HOPI BASKET CEREMONY This is the first scene in the morning w hich hand corner, and the moon in the lower right /Vluch had been written ,by the scientists of is loved by the people. It is especially cherished hand corner. the prehistoric Basket Maker period and later by the children for w hom the presents of that of the Pueblo period. The Hopi name green corn on the ground are intended im­ LALAKONTI C E REMONY Lalakonti is commonlv known to the w hite­ mediately follow ing this dance. Later in the In the village plaza several dances are per­ men ,is a Basket

PHOTOGRAPHS BY 0IILTON SN O\V

the good of the total pueblo. Fred Kabotie \\ as fully in­ him in new and supposedly entirely different surroundings. doctrinated into all of these pueblo attitudes so deeply Quite the contrarv influence came into the life of Fred burdened \\·ith feeling ,md meaning. Kabotie in his new an°d strange set-up in Santa Fe. His im­ The Hopi world is a changing world and the family mediate associates in the classroom were other Indians, many of Fred Kahotie has been involved in the struggle of the sharing the same longing for their home villages and camps. old and traditional competing with the new. During the This situation made the "weaning" process less painful and artist's earliest years his conservative family felt keenl_v the less final than \\ ·as the intention of those who removed the innovations the United States government was attempting to Indian from his native habitat. make in Hopi life. As a result of this the:v moved their Also, a new attitude toward the Indian was beginning famiI:v, along with other conservatives, to the tribal village of to develop among Anglo-Americans. From the standpoint Or:.iihi. It \\ as \\·hile at Oraihi that the first artistic inclina­ of individuals there was a growing interest in the Indian tions of Fred began to appear. He and other boys of the with a view to the preservation rather than the destruction village drew sketches on slabs of stone using colors made of his culture. Santa Fe was a center of this growing interest. from earth for their drawings. Artists, teachers, museum officials, and others took an active Again the conflict between conservatives and progres­ interest in perpetuating the higher cultural values of the sives forced another move on the part of the Kabotie family, Indians, primarily through personal contact with individual this time to Hotevilla. It was hut a year later that the govern­ members of various tribal groups. ment sent some of these folk hack to Shungopavy, Fred Youthful though he was, Fred Kabotie came in for his Kabotie's family among them. share of this interest. His fifth rtrade effort in map coloring It may have been that the next move in :voung Fred's drew the attention of Mrs. Elizabeth W. DeHuff. She en­ life came as a direct result of the above incidents. Against couraged him greatlv and it was a few years later, as a his familv's wishes, and his o,vn, too, for that matter, he was high school lad in the Santa Fe public school, that Fred sent to the hoarding school at Santa Fe, more than a com­ illustrated the children's hook first mentioned in this sketch. fortable (in the official mind') 250 miles from his conserva­ The Lahoratorv of Anthropology at Santa Fe has a great tive home. Doubtless this was an expression of the then cur­ many of the original pen and ink sketches and several colored rent feeling on the part of th ~ !)"overnment to draw the drawings with which the book "TayTa~1's Memories" was Indian away from his hundreds-of-years-old culture to put ill us tr;ited. The live]~, dra,Yings and paintings were made he- fore Fred had received anr formal training in art. Mrs. De­ Pueblo boy. In another scene ,vomen are carrying full baskets missioned by the Heye F oundation to record the tribal too, for in addition to his teaching duties, he has another Huff reports that the illusfrations represent the Hopi Indian's atop their· heads. The women's blanket dresses, their woven dances of his people. He gave about a year to this worth­ heavy obligation. own conception of the stories. The sketches shm1· great belts, their moccasins, hair bobbed-all are details w ell w ith­ w hile p roject. In 1946 a g roup of fourteen H opi G .l.s w ere more or promise. Delightful and charming, the_v reveal less constraint in the understanding of one reared in the Pueblo tradition, It was at t he termination of this year of concentrated less organized for the purpose of pursuing the craft of silver­ than much of the later work of Mr. Kabotie. Subject matter, differing in small points only. painting, in 1929, that Fred K abotie returned to his home srnithing. Fred Kabotie w as put in charge of the designing to be su re, may play a part here. T hroughout, the drawings At about the same time the young artist illustrated the village to be initiated into a H opi men's secret society . Seem­ for this group, w hile the technical training w as placed in reveal the richness of pueblo life ,1·hich had been the full story "Five Little Kachinas" which ran in Holland's maga­ ingly this made up h is mindt as to he future, for he remained the hands of another H opi, Paul Saufki. measure of the growing Hopi boy in his native village. zine as a serial. Later this story also was published in book in H opiland from this y ear on except for brief intervals. Due to the success of a silver project sponsored some From the twist of an Indian man's hair-do to the costume form. H ere the delightful and appealing mudhead kachinas During the prolonged period of his initiation he also y ears before by the Museum of N orthern Arizona, Flagstaff, and painting of a ceremonial dancer, minutiae and details are are represented, as Mr. Kabotie says, "just like the Hopi kids" painted, fi lling orders which had accumulated through the Mr. Kabotie says that he, too, tried to use native designs sketchily hut accurate!.'· portra_\1ed. Expressions on the faces playing over and under wagons, sticking their heads in ollas, years. Thus he learned that his own native surroundings in this w ork. Design motifs are borrowed from pottery or of animals and birds told about in these stories are well done. and otherwise getting into childish mischief. were more conducive to good painting a nd greater peace basketry or any H opi source. T hen they are adapted to use T his is of considerable interest, fo r rn ar,v Indian stories imply Going back a f ew years, we find that after g ra_d uation of mind. in the new medium, silver. A number of splendid craftspieces that animals are like humans. In some 1nstances, in fact, the from the public high school in Santa Fe, Fred Kabot1e-spent Shortly after his initiation, in 19 3 1 , Mr. Kabotie married has resulted, all the products of fundamentally good design. animal removes his skin and is a human. Perhaps these some time at numerous tasks in and around this New Mexican Alice T ala of Shongopovi. T heir two children are now at­ It may be remarked here, too, that it is the element of design thoughts influenced the dra,vings of young Fred Kabotie town. First he and two other Indians were employ ed in the tending Hopi schools, the girl in Oraibi H igh School and, which marks many a Kabotie painting as outstanding. and made more convincing such sketches as the one labeled School of American Research, ·where o fficials made it pos­ the bov in elementarv school i n the same v illage. A second group of G .I.s is following the plan of the "Then the Puppy went wagging his tail in fri endh· fashion sible for these y oung men to paint along with other tasks. Sliortly after their marriage, the Kaboties went to the first, to train in this silver w ork for eighteen months. Mr. up to a group of little boy Crows"'. T he attitude toward the work of these boys is expressed G rand Canyon, where both were employed by the Fred Kabotie reports that many of the first group are now or­ "TayTay 's Memories" set the pace for illustrations, and in the words of Dr. Edgar L. H ewett, "T hree full blooded H arvey Company for several y ears. Little time remained ganized into a guild and have made him their secretary­ again in 192 7 Fred Kaborie produced another series. The Indian youths . .. painting in their own style,_ d~veloping to paint, and that largely at night. T he latter proved no more treasurer. H e also continues as designer for the c urrent original pencil and crayon dra11 ings for this hook "Swift their own color sense, absolutely free from white mfluence successful than life away from the H opi country, so the trainees. Eagle of the Rio Grande," written b.'' Mrs. DeHuff, are are being o-iven special encouragement by keeping them in couple most willingly and happily returned to their home T he earliest work of Fred Kabotie established a prece­ also in the Laboratory of Anthropology at Santa Fe. The the employ of the School of American Research, enabling in the summer of 1937. T he reason for their return was the dent in subject matter seldom broken by this artist. T hrough­ legends related in this series, although from the Pueblos of them to paint two or three hours a day ... protecting t hem appointment of Mr. Kabotie as instructor i n p ainting and out the many years he has painted, he has utilized, basically, th~ Rio Grande Valley, are sufficienth' fami liar to Fred from enthusiastic friends who would send them off to drawing a t O raibi High S chool. H e continues to hold this ritual material. It has been said of him t hat h e h as painted Kahotie that he has done a commendable job in his illustra­ schools. " position. almost every ceremony of his people. T his seems quite tive sketches. For instance, S,1·ift Eagle is digging for a To be sure, these y oung men w ere far from being "a~­ Fortunately for the Hopi youth, Mr. Kabotie en­ natural, for unquestionably the rows of dancing kachinas rabbit-this is a t heme as close to the heart of a Hopi as any solutely free from w hite influence," for, as Mr. Kabotte courages them to paint in w hat might be called the H opi or other fi gures would strengthen the already established states, " there was painting and other forms of art all about style; in other \\·ords, as he says, h e is not encouraging the us!" It should be stressed, however, that those who were European style of painting. H e urges his students t o pai nt conscientiously trying t o give these Indians every opportu­ their Pueblo life. nity to develop naturally saw to it that they received no Surely the best of his students' works are those in which formal instruction. But to keep them from any o utside i n­ the subjects, as again Mr. Kabotie puts it, "follow the events fl uence w hatever would have meant sealing them in a of the H opi calendar y ear." As with their teacher, this is vacuum' Further, these young m en, Fred Kabotie no l ess what they best know, this is the subject m atter they can than the others, were not so unworldly that they did not understand. learn at this time that t he buying public makes certain de­ Asked as to what media his students used in the class­ mands of an artist. room, Mr. Kabotie replied "in w hatever medium they c an Durino- these several vears in Santa Fe, Fred K abotie b •· get!" H owever, w henever circumstances permit, water col­ yed in several or- also did a bit of tourist guiding and pla ors are preferred, for this is the medium closest to the paint­ contacts w ith the general public further in­ chestras. These ing t raditions of these people. Too, this is the medium most t. A short sojourn fluenced the attitudes of the Hopi artis often used and best handled b y Mr. Kabotie. · at the Grand Canyon and a year at his native v illage ·were The fast t empo of life has caught up w ith Hopiland, followed by a return to Santa Fe. and, like the rest of us, Mr. Kabotie sighs and complains During his second visit in Santa Fe, Kabotie was com- about the shortness of the day's hours! And slight wonder,

I

P .\ GE T WE N TY - S I X .'\R I Z O:'\A H lG H WAYS .J U L Y 195 1 J\ili:--;ecl with the old are certain new infl uences ,, hi ch have plaster ,, hich \\·ere removed, some of t hem bearing color been e:--;perienced and they are bound to be reflected in some decorati on. It \\·as very necessar:' that these murals be fairh­ of his paintings. fully recorded as they ,,·ere removed one b,· one. F red Ka­ J\fan:' honors have come to Fred Kabotie during his botie, under the direction of the Indi:1 n Arts and Crahs thirt)' active : ears as the leading painter of his t ribe. Par­ Bo:1rd, reproduced several o f these paintings in original size tic ularh c,utsLrndi ng are the follo,,·ing t ,1·0, a Guggenheim m fresco colors on plaster panels. T he reproductions ,,·ere Fello,, ship and an achievement award. In 1945--- 46 he ,,as later exhibited at the J\iluseum of i\fodern A rt, N e,,· York awarded a Guggenheim Foundation Felhwship in recogni­ City, and in other leading museums throughout the cmmrr:~- ti c: n of his high anistic attai nment. T he chief project at­ ln a conversation a short time ago, he told of an tempted b_,· Fred Kabotie as part of the G uggenheim Fellow­ amusing incident ·which occurred in relation to one of the ship ,1 as a book on the i nterpretation of prehistoric Indian m:1n:· art commissions ,,·hich he has received. For a spot of Mimbrenos," national advertising, the C ontainer Corporation of A merica T /.ie teacher in the classroonz. designs. This work, "D esigns from the Ancient pu!J !ished in a splendid volume by the Grabhorn Press, S an some years :1go asked him to do a painting w hich ,,·oulcl be Francisco, 19-f9, ,1 as both written and illustrated bv Kabotie. representative of Arizona. Mr. K abotie obliged ,, ith an It is of interest to note that in this book is ;me of the interesting clra\\·ing on b uckskin. T he pai nting told the stor_\· most fa ithful reproductions of these prehistoric designs the of t he germination o f corn, the staple food of all A rizona vvriter has ever seen. As Mr. Kabotie has so correctly stated, Indians, and the ,,·ork was executed in true H opi st _\'le and "P ueblo culture has been a living thing in the Southwest for flat color. A full color reproduction appeared in b oth T im..: at least two thousand ye:1rs. vVhile archaeologists and other and F ortmze magazines. students are ,, or king on the outlines o f its history, making Mr. K abotie continued, w ith a serious face, that recentlv it clearer year by year, they cannot c ompletely appreciate T i777e magazine carried an article relative to this p ai nting . I i1 the feelings and responses w hich come instinctively from one this, he said, there is the full story of how h e killed the deer, , vho has lived the culture." Interesting, indeed, are the tanned t he skin, and painted the p icture. vVith a twinkle in interpret:1tions which follow, well-seasoned with a measure his e y e, Mr. Kabotie ended his story- "A nd I bought that of reflections which could come only from being born into buckskin for hs-oo!" and reared within Pueblo life. Fred Kabotie's influence is also far reaching. N ot onl:' O n American Indian D :1y, at the Chicago R ailro:1 d Fair as a teacher, but also in his original paintings, has he affected in the summer of 1949, Mr. Kabotie was accorded a second H opis and other Southwest Indian artists. H e modestly tells outstanding recognition, the Annual A chievement A w ard o f of overhearing some R io G rande artists exp ressing the desire the Indian Council. T heodore H . H aas, chief council of the to meet "this Fred Kabotie" w h ose art had influenced theirs! U . S. Office of Indian Affairs, made the presentation. T his A nd he laughingly relates how, when he revealed th:1 t he was the first such recognition made of an Indian artist, and was the man of their discussion, they w ere quite taken Mr. Kabotie was the fi rst H opi to receive the award. back, for t hey h:1cl thought him to be a much older and more JVIanv :1 re the other honors which have come the way of pretentious fellow than the modest H opi is. Fred Kahotie in connection with his p ainting. The y ear i946 T hus has li ved this quiet, generous 111:111, w ithout fanfare is outstanding. He received t he grand prize at the G allup in h is native land. By comparative s tandards in his tribe, his Inter-Tribal ceremonial exhibition. A t the A rizona State F air art has g iven him a good living. N ow he g ives back in equal he was awa rcl ed first prize in the F ine Arts section, and measure through his te:1ching, his designing, his painting. special :1warcl in the Indian Arts and Crafts section. In the Fred Kabotie is the most capable artist of all his tribes­ Fine A rts exhibit his painting was the sole Indian entry and men; he is outstanding :1111ong all Indian artists; a nd he has acknowledged niche in American art as a whole. A ll }-lopi n cnds in the direction of repet itious des ign. l(abotie This shcJ\\ created a great deal of interest and comment competition was w ith outstanding Southwest artists. D ur­ an mplished through his faithful portrayal of used the monotonous a nd repetitious fig ures b ut made im­ throughout the state. ing the same year he received the grand prize at the P hil­ this has been acco everyday life in all its variety. H e has pressive in color and form the lines of dancers. Too, t he In the s ummer of 1947, one of Mr. K abotie's paintings, brook Art Center, where the works of many American I n­ his people, t heir household a ctivities, the varied roles of nature of these sub jects has inAuenced Kabotie further to the H ome Kachi11a Da77ce, ,, as featured in an exhibit of Sou th­ dian artists are entered in competition. painted \\·omen's g ceremonies. H e h:1s painted individual extent that he has become a master of detail. A static, hig hly western p:1inters in the D:1 ll as Museum of F ine Arts, D allas, Many and v:1riecl h:1ve been the commissions received by 111 :111 , the fascinatin in detail as the conventional quali t_,. characterized his ea rly ,1·ork, but T c:,;as. T he sixtv-four artists exhibiting represented the Fred Kabotie to execute his art. D uring the depression years dancers with the same intensity and truth . H ardly could he have fol -­ throug h the _, ·ca rs mobili tcy has ome into some of his fig ures. states of New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado, O klahoma, A r­ he w as commissioned by the Fred H arvey Com pany t o more d ramatic lines of dancers This is ill ustrated bclo\\'. kansas, :1 nd Louisi:1 na. In the brochure for this splendid col­ decorate the Hopi Indian T ower on t he south R im of the filled this w orthy artistic accomplishment without the rich that matter, Fred Kabotic \\'as the fi rst of his tribe to receive national lection it was noted that "ver_,. im port:1n t to remember in any Grnncl Canyon. T his painting combines severnl legencl:1 ry infancy, childhood and young manhood, and, for s and international recognition. Between 19 17 and 19 25, sho,1·s surl'ev of American :1rt is the grcl\\·ing number of Indian personali ties :1 ncl numerous symbolic designs and w as exe­ the continued adulthood in his native, Pueblo life. T his ha including his ,1·orks were given in both Europe and Allleri ca. :1rtists . .. " I-l erei n, too, /\ l r. Kabotie is referred to as one of cuted in typical H opi colors. been further enriched by experiences bey ond the H opi During this period and sin ce then, his pain tings have been the leading contemporar>· painters in Arizon:1 . The same compan:; had him pain t m urals in one of their mesas. ex hi bited in France and Spain and from coast to coast in T his painting of the H ome Kachina dance shows many attractive din ing r ooms at P:1inted D esert Inn. These reveal O ne can visit a pueblo, and paint it, too, but never w ith A merica. In this countrv he h:1s c:--; hihited among others in points of contrnst as comp:1 recl with his e:1 rl>' work. There some of the H opi ideas relative to the sacred, namely an the warmth, n ever ,vith the meaningful fidelity, n ever ,1·ith the fo ll owing places: S:1 nta Fe; in G:1 llu p at the [ndi:1 n Cere­ is still the rig id and formal li ne of dancers, faithfully por­ eagle shrine a nd a trek to the sal t l akes near Zuni. the exquisite and r ich d etail portray ed by Fred Kabotie. N ot monials; at the P hi lbrook Art Center, T ulsa, Oklahoma; in tra ved to the last detail. \ ' erv different is t he complete E u­ D uring the !:lte thirties Peabody M useum of Boston w as only has he contributed to the A merican art scene as a New York :1t the G rand Ccntr:1 1 A rt C:1 llcries and :1t the ropean perspective in the plaza surrounded bv Pueblo houses, excavating an important prehistoric and early historic site w hole but also he has left a refreshingly truthful ethnologic:11 Nelson and Rockne!! A rt C:1llcries; the Societv of Fine Arts, people s itting about, eagles on roof tops, and clo uds in the in the H opi country, Aw:1tovi. A mong other d iscoveries of record of his own people. Certainly his art has come to fullest Palm Beach, F lori da; the Denver A rt Museum, D enver, disrant b:1ckg round. A l! of this is done in realistic painting note were the nrnrals found on the w alls o f t he ancient kiv:1s flower in reproducing the forms and the life of the people Colorado; :1 nd the Bakersfi eld, Cali fornia, A rt Museulll. H e and is as informal as the d:1 ncers are formal, even to a lazy ( ceremonia l chambers). There were successive layers of w hich h:1ve greatest meaning to him, his own beloved H opi. is :1 lso represented in man_v permanent art collect ions in­ clog sleeping in the sun 1 c_luding the fol lm1 ing: G il c rease Foundation, H eye Found:1 - Perhaps this p:1inting is a good example of the m eeting t1on , Musculll of /\ lodcrn Art, and t he Natural H istorv of the Ind ian-old and the Anglo-new in Au ences in F red Museum, New York Citv. · l( abotie's life. U ndoubtedlv the conAicts in his boyhood days Outstanding :1mong .his 011 e- m:1 n ex hibi ts was the show bet,1·een the conservatives· :1 nd progressives amoi1g his o,.:·n at the ,\ /[ useum of "'iorthern Arizona, Flagstaff, in Ma_v , 1947. people sm1ed a seed ,1·hi ch the ,1 a:, of life has but nurtured.

l' .\C I:: T\\' l -'. '\TY - E I G HT ;\ R I Z O'\ .\ III C H\\ " .\Y S J 1." I 1 I I; _'i I T he Mission site in 1898.

in the "red" and commercially, a sad example of business operations. It imports just about everything: supplies, oper­ ating capital, trained personnel, etc. But the impact of its operations upon a whole people-a "nation within a nation"­ rnore than justifies the c apital investment and upkeep. T his mission community lies in a tiny vall ey at 7,000 Indians in colorful native dress leaving clmrch service. feet altitude in the skyline land of the N avajo. T he surround­ ing countr:1side is rugged with a \\ ild beauty belying descrip­ tion. Colorful contrasts abound in a startling array-pine­ covered mountaintop, rock-stre,n1 canyon, w ind-swept niesa, cultivated fi elds, towering rocks, sheer cliffs . Neither paved r oad nor disfiguring billboard intrude. Geographic,illy, St. Michaels is approximately 29 miles northwest of Gallup, N. M. on U . S. Highway 66. Three mil es to the north is Windmv R ock, the N avajo "vVashing­ ton, D . C." Nine miles fa rther n orth is Fort Defiance, gov-

The Frrmciscrm Fathers at St. !llichaels, alo'llg with their endless 1-;;orl:! ·with the Indians, fulfill many other duties, such as caring · f' or the post of/ice, tribal records, print shop, an d the many other j'mzctio'l?s of this fine /\1/ission. ernment hospital center for the Indians. To the west is Ganado, noted for i ts Presbyterian hospital, 30 miles over \ a mountainous road. Pavement from Gallup ends at the ( New Mexico Stateline, four miles from St. Michaels. A gravel -" J' road continues to the mission and to other points named. O ne day each w eek clothing is distributed to n eedy N a·vajos. City of the Brown 'Robes "Franciscan City" proper is made up of a cluster of modern stone and frame buildings around a large plaza : BY THOMAS S. SHIYA church, monastery, convent, guest house, dispensary, work­ ers' houses, machine shop and garage. T he "metropolitan I' I I OTOC: l,A l' H S B Y AL L E N C. R EED area" encompasses widely scattered hogans, trading posts, an ultra modern school plant with its corollary buildings, ranciscan City, Arizona " appears on no map allel the modern economics and sociology of A merica and, just beyond the "suburbs," an ancient cliff dwelling of the Grand Canvon State. But the name everywhere. deep in a hidden canyon. could b e appropri~tely given to one of the To carry the analogy further, this unique community St. Michaels' basic population averages around fi fty most unique c ommunities in a state noted serves a vast "trading area" of 2 5, ooo square miles with a souls, religious and lay. This figure is doubled and trebled for the unusual in names and places. population of 65 ,ooo. It struggles with problems of com­ during gatherings of the Navajo in council with the Fnm- Founded over a half century ago for munication and transportation, with supply a nd demand, a sing ular purpose, this "City of the Brown with emergencies and routine. However, its primary p urpose Robes" is in many respects a mi ni ature counterpart of any for exister'1ce is different- radically different, for its com­ St. M ichaels Church today. modern A merican metropolis, des pite its isolation in n orth­ merce is chiefly in an intangible: religion. east Arizona. It has church, school, houses, offices, hotel, T he "Franciscan City" of St. Michaels, Arizona, exports post office, publi c uti li ties, bank, emergency hospital, repair a number of by-products of its applied Christianity. A steady shops, printing plant, movies, libraries, trucks, cars, buses, stream of food; clothing, medicines and practical advice radi­ phones, and even its own winery. ates from this mission center to over 1 2 ,000 "regular cus­ Its population in cludes religious and lay people, pro­ tomers" and overflow ing to hundreds more- as overtaxed fessional and tradesmen, Indian and w hi te, citv folk and resources and facilities permit in an ever increasing "market." :; uburbanites, and even a commuter or two. Tts problems par- From a bookkeeping v iewpoint, St. Michaels is alwavs

P AC I·: THIRTY .'\ I{ I Z O :\ A H I G H \V A Y S JU L Y I <)_'j l

Patients waiting at infirmary for medical attemion. N a-vajos e77joy celebrations.

structure is given over to kitchen, dining room, bedrooms of t\nl, these intrepid 11 omen tra\·el the resenation in all and the studv of ,1 orld famed Father Berard H aile ethno- kinds of w eather to bring medicines, food, clothing and anthropologi.st and "scholar to the N avajo." ' Christian Doctrine to the N ,11"ajo in their isolated hogans. The second floor finds more bedrooms as \\-ell as the T heirs is still an unchronicled saga of the Southwest. recreation and library rooms of the F ranciscans- some ten T o the rear of t he convent \i·ith its small exquisite chapel is the dispensary , serving as an emergenc_v hospital \\ hen the couraging \i'as the revelation that the "o-reater number of permanently stationed padres and six o r seven lay brothers need arises. Here, the sisters sort the medicines, food and Navajo" w ho \\·ere supposed to speak E nglish simply did and brother candidates. The monaster_v b uilding is connected clothing donated from around the nation, and here come not exist. The padres are still untangling the fi ner points by a Jong corridor with the adjacent church building of the neighboring Indians for treatment and other help. of the Navajo tong ue, 52 years later. same native stone. T he modernistic appointments are com­ the T he northeast corner of the plaza is bordered bv the . O \'er the y ears and in the face of gigantic obstacles espe­ parable to any in the city in successful conguest of a ,1 ilder­ machine s hop-garage building, li ke,1 ise of native gra_v stone. cially by way of the elements and inadeguate r esources, the ness through sheer striving over the y ears. The result is more s is housed here along w ith a Franciscans have built a mission system with St. l\!Iichaels effective missionarv effort. A fleet of cars and truck . Off the plaza are small houses the hub and extending over two states. Major mission plants Th~ basement. of the main building is divided into print double-D iesel pm ver plant eter and other lay people em­ are located at Shiprock, Tohatchi and Gallup in N ew Mexi­ sh~p, wmery, laundr_v and repair shops. The print shop is for the padres' N avajo interpr Franciscans. co, and at H ouck, K eams Canyon, Chinle and Lukachukai in quite complete, capable of publishing F ather Berard's pains­ ployed in t he service of the Arizona. Secondary c hapels dot two-fifths of the sprawling takenly researched \\"Orks on Navajo o rigins and language as But a few hundred vards to the rear of the Communin· reservation. Expenditures over these years run into the ·well as THE PADRES' TRAIL. H ouse are a scattering ;f hogans, the eig ht-sided one-roori1 hundreds of thousands. · The church is reminiscent of the ancient abbevs of E u­ log houses of the N avajo w ith earthen roofs and floors. St. M ichaels mirrors mission life among the Indians of rope with five side chapels under curving stone arches. Its South of the mission cluster of buildings is cultivated ground America's largest and fastest growing tribe. Here is the nerve high altar of native sandstone is a hand-sculptured , 1 ork center of activities directly affecting one-fifth of the D ine, from two huge slabs of rock, an everl asting tribute to a Srnrounding the 1vlission, 711ztd and brush hogans and sheep The Father Superior has many duties. H e may be conduct­ The P eople, as the N avaj o call themselves. The padres-the Mexican artist \\·ho spent his last years at St. Michaels. grazing mark Indian life 771ztch as it has been for decades. i11p; ,\lass O'lle mmne'l7t, and repairing equipme'l7t next. "Ed" 111.s I10 d.1" or "L' ong-G owns " to t I1e NIa va10-run. the The guest house across the plaza ,, as once a barn, but gamut of professions and trades in serving the Indians. As­ a far cr)' from that it is today. It serves as o\·ernight stop sisting are the sisters w ho teach school, care for the ill and for man)· a \1·eary7 tourist \\·ho accepts " pot luck" ,1·ith the c iscan Fathers and in time of retreats for priests of the south­ travel trail and di rt road in their works of mercy. "Brown Robes" to the alternative of c onti nuing on to G al­ rvation. \\'C~,t. The metropolitan population is anyone's guess but The monastery bl1ilding includes a post office secti on lup or deeper into the almost barren rese prnb:1h ly not over a few hundred more, including traders under the supervision of a Franciscan. Navajo from miles The guest or Communit_v House, as the Franciscans :111d In dia ns. around use St. Michaels as their mailing address, as well as call it, is a t\\ o-ston' frame building used bv lav workers as T he historv of St. i\'[ic h:1 ewls begins ith the arrival of traders and others employed in the area. There are also the living g ua rters. On the north \\·ing of the fii·st Aoor is a the fi rst browi1 -robed friars in 1898 at what was then offi ces facing t he plaza side of the building w her e often the recreation room ,1·hich does for a meeting room \1 ·hen the kno\111 :1s I ,a C ienega. F:1ther Anselm "\Neher, later called N avaj o come with their troubles a nd needs. The superior's Navajo Catholic Conference deliberates. The south ,1 ·i1w ",\ post le of the N:1v:1jo," \\' ith Father Juvenal Schnorbus office serves, among other things, as a "bank" \\·here in time boasts a spacious ~i tting room graced b)' a beautiful petrified :111d Brother Pla cidus Bu erger, c 1me from the Cin cinnati of emergencv a Navajo mav borrow a bit to tide him over. wood fi replace, the admira tion of every visitor. ,\ lotherhouse b_Y \\'ay of Gallup to establish the first A meri­ His security is a turguoi se necklace, a Navajo ruo-, or per ­ Bordering the north side of the· plaza is the convent crn Catholi c mission effort among the N:1\·,1jo. T \\'ice before haps, just his promise- for times are perennially ha~·d on the of the Franciscan Sisters of 1\ Iar_v, popula rlv kno\1 n as the the earl_\' Spanish Francisc:1 ns had tried and fai led, for the reservation. · "vVhite Sis ters" from their creanw \I hitE habits. Tn teams no1nad ic life of these Indians defeated each attempt. Tn this same building of native stone is the editorial and T he three pi oneering "Brown Robes" found a rooAess business offices of THE PADRES' TRA TL , the mission's na­ T /Je bell tow er looks do-w n 011 O11e of the arriv ino-._.., ',uwo.._.., m e,-tr:1cli ng post and nothing e lse at the planned m ission site. tional monthlv. Next door is the census bureau with the most in the endless procession of N avajos v isiting the Mission. "The :1 homination of desolation," f

Ill rcadi'fl_'.!. TOOl/1 or Mission. School of Sisters of the Blessed Sacranzent at St. Michaels is separate entity supported by donations to tl.ie Order.

From t/.iese lmmble dwellings of the Navajos come the children who are given the advantages of the finest schooling facilities. Here are wonders of science.

that fans out from a long and narrowing arroyo, becoming a canyon, and Klagetoh, to the west some 45 miles where a pound. An Army veteran, a Navajo from the famous Black deepened canyon with sheer rock walls towards St. Michaels double-hogan serves as dispensary for the sisters and meet­ Mountain section of the reservation, is pressman for St. Mountain to the west. The pines edge down the canyon­ ing room for the padre and Navajo. Michaels Press. A young lady from Gallup, of Spanish an­ grooved mountainside to within a few thousand yards of Life at St. Michaels is far from easy for the religious, cestry, is monotypist in the print shop where she skillfully the mission. for all the modern buildings today and the machinery in use. operates a machine setting type in both English and Navajo Down a winding dirt road half a mile to the southeast Shortages abound in labor and money, as seems to be the for Father Berard's books on the Indians. A number of lay from the plaza is St. M.ichaels Indian School, conducted by rule when a program depends primarily on public generosity people, Indian and white, work at St. Michaels Indian School Sisters of the Blessed Sacrament. Board facilities and a re­ rather than on commercial earnings. in various capacities. Others have come for periods of time cently completed building program enable these sisters to In keeping with the time-honored Franciscan spirit, to do some special job or other but all have been captivated care for over 300 Navajo children of the hundreds who apply priest and lay brother double at trade or profession. More by the incomparable beauty of St. Michaels and the spirit each year. The multi-million dollar modernization of the than one visitor has been surprised to find himself introduced that envelopes its "metropolitan area." grammar school and the construction of a new high school to a man working away in old clothes repairing a car or Perhaps, the best way to drink in that wild beauty and has been found hardly sufficient, what with all available building and be told "this is Father Superior." Much of the feel the peace of that spirit is to make St. Michaels headquar­ government and private schools able to educate only about improvements on the grounds from painting to pouring of ters for a series of long walks. Everything is within reach one-third of the 2 5,ooo Indian children on the reservation. concrete is the work of the missionaries themselves. of the mission plaza-the mystery of a vanished people that Being good citizens is stressed in schooling of children. The school plant is indeed a major suburb, so to speak. A priest operates the print shop under the direction of lies buried in the ruins <:>f a cliff dwelling down the narrow­ It has its own church, employee housing, convent, power Father Berard, the untiring white-haired scholar who cele­ ing canyon, a wondrous natural bridge of living rock chiseled plant, repair shops and garage. Founded in 1902 St. Michaels brated his 50th anniversary among the Navajo last October by ancient rushing waters, petrified wood scattered over Indian School has graduated hundreds of Navajos, many 1 2. Another supervises all building repairs and his work-gang acres from prehistoric times, the scent of the pines cresting a finding a new way of life off the reservation. is made up of priest and lay brother, as he needs them and lopg mesa-like mountain, evening fires before hogans and In a sense of the word, the suburbs of St. Michaels manages to "steal" them from other pressing secular tasks. voices ~arrying acooss the green of miniature valleys and should include Window Rock and Fort Defiance, and all The motor fleet, constantly battered by indescribable roads the twilight of jagged canyon walls, and always, in the dis­ areas serviced by the fathers and sisters stationed at the and often vicious weather, is in fulltime charge of a lay tance, the clear tones of St. Michaels' bells ringing out the central mission. The one-time Indian fortress has its own brother. Angelus as the setting sun paints airy castles in the flaming chapel, built hard by a deep arroyo carved out by Black Everything is put to use and everyone doubles at some clouds above. Creek. Perched on a rock in mid-arroyo is a grotto with a task or other. A semi-retired padre, a pioneer of the Mexican The very ancient of the Navajos meets with the very life-sized statue of St. Mary. missions of the Southwest, keeps a group of beehives near modern of America at St. Michaels. Almost side by side, log At Window Rock cl~urch services are held in the gov­ the Community House. Two of the younger fathers handle hogan and stone edifice give reason for each other in the ernment agency's recreation hall. Likewise, Sawmill, Kin­ all editorial and business operations of the mission monthly skyline country. Nor is each without contribution to the lichee, Ganada and Wide Ruins in Arizona, and Crystal in with its national circulation. A lay brother is "chief cooi-c other. Even as the Father Berards learn of the Navajos their New Mexico are without chapels. Those areas served from and bottle washer" while others run the up-to-date laundry language and customs, so the Navajos learn of new horizons St. Michaels and fortunate enough to have small chapels equipment. And all carry on missionary activities at variotis in the living of life. 'Tis one more frontier ·where the philoso­ include Hunter's Point to the south of the central mission mission stations dependent on St. Michaels. phy of the Old World is pioneering in the New World. on a high point of land overlooking the long Black Creek Lay people are in evidence around the m1ss10n corn- A well-rozmded program is offered students at the school.

i\,/odern scientific training in all branches of learning is given the students. Splendid plant has fine equipment. Physical education is stressed. time nor money was available for such an attempt, so a pho­ paleontology and anthropology, a requirement of greatest tograph was taken of Hubbard standing at the exact spot, importance. It is not in accord w ith law or accepted policies and he left the canyon with the firm resolve that some cla y of the National Park Service to allow anyone possessed only he w ould return properly equipped to follow the matter to o_f means and curiosity to make such explorations in a Na­ a conclusion. He did return in February and March 1895, tJOnal Park. However, a permit finally was granted, but only during w hich he made other discoveries, including a possible after Dr. C. W . Gilmore, Curator of Vertebrate Paleon­ nts in Those l>ays? sec~ncl giant, all of which aclclecl pressure to the urge to tology of the U. S. National Museum, was aclclecl to the agam return. party . By the time this vVashington representative arrived, the BY E. T. SCOYEN A few years later he joined the Alaska Gold Rush and apparently was associated w ith Rex Beach on this venture. expedition had already taken their outfit to Hilltop by truck However, he never forgot the rock giant of the Havasupai, and packed it clown over the Tobocobe Trail to the Cany on n_\ · spot in our land w hich is remote from and for nearly thirty years he made determined efforts to ob­ floor. Camp was established in the yard of the Indian Super­ -usual routes of travel possesses a scenicalh­ tain backing for an expedition. H e was convinced he w as mtenclent and Mrs. F. S. Lovenskiolcl. Before leaving the magnificent, colorful, and dralllatic setting·, on the verge of di scoveries between the reel, precipitous w alls Grand Canyon Headquarters, they took on Art Metzger, e.\:hibits a profound geological story ,1 hich A relating to the origins of man w hich would be revolutionary, now the park's postmas ter, who was to recruit and direct a even includes tales of fossil rernain·s of hu­ to say the least, to current technical opinion on the subject. crew of Supai Indians to remove the slide. The guide and man giants, harbors the remnants of a peo­ pa_cker ,1 as Bud Clawson. I was detailed to accompany Dr. ple w hose origins are prehistoric, and boasts It was onl_11 to be expected, perhaps, that scientific organiza­ G ilmore to the camp and then remain w ith the party to look a history ,1 hose written records start in the year of the In­ tions would not take him seriously, and that no foundation after National Park interests. dependence of the United States, is bound to ass ume an air of would be stirred to an acti ve interest by his tale. N o assignment during my 3 2 y ears w ith the National nwste r_1 ·. Those w ho are familiar with the wonder spots of The b rea k fin all y came in 192-1-, \I hen Sam Hubbard's P,:rk Ser vice has bee n more pleasant and interesting. Never A ri zo na w ill readily fit the above description to Havas upai trail crossed that of E d11 ard Doheny. No doubt the memories Ca ny on, and will agree, I am sure, that it is a land not onh- of the adventures and hardships of an 18-year-olcl boy in that w ill I forget the grand turkey dinner served in camp one of mystery, but of great charm as well. · isolated tributar)· gorge to the G rand Cany on were a major crisp November night- the bird having been purchase d from one of the resident Indians. A turkey was never car ved and In 1776, the restless traveler and missionary, Father Gar­ factor in the multi-millionaire's decision to finance an explor­ served b_v a more gracious host w hose capabilities as an ex pe­ ces, becallle the first recorded human of many thousands of atory group. This was designated as the Doheny Scie1;tific cl mon director \\"ere never questioned by anyone. Hubbard people, old and y oung, to follow a trail clow n over the cliffs Expedition. rated as a prince of an out-of-doors companion. A lso, it ,1 ·as w hich form the labyrinth of the vast Grand Canvon countrv. My first contact w ith Mr. Hubbard's theories came in lll_l' first opportunity to play w ith that new wonder of the In a deep side cany~n, he found a primitive peop.le cultivatirig 192 4 w hen I \1 as serving as Chief Ranger of Grand Canyon th _e ,r fields along a swift flowing, clear stream ·w hich springs National Park, 11 ithin w hose boundaries the land of the age, the radio. A small 4-tube battery set was part of the miraculously out of a barren wash a short distance above Supai is included. In J\Jarch of that vear a report, aclclresse cl ca mp eguipment. Later, w hen the part_v di sbanded, the set the village. 'After brief missionary work he departed for his to the Director of the Nati onal Park Service from California, w as presented to me and served the Sco_ven family for a major destination- the Hopi Villages. came to m1 attention. This covered an intervie,1 ,1 ·ith J\lr. number of years thereafter. The official government explorer, Lt. Joseph C. Ives, Hubbard h_1 - an employee of our Service. It started: To understand the ,1 ork of the group and the report attelllptecl a descent into the cany on with a hundred-mule "I saw Mr. Hubbard's photos, diagrams, etc., and cross­ ,1 hich was published later, consideration should be given to pa ck outfit in April 1857 . However, he soon found that "the questioned him pretty thoroughly. I am convinced not only the objective of Mr. Hubbard. I gained the clear impress ion b luffs on either side had assumed stupendous proportions." of the fact that he is square, but that in H avasupai Canyon is that he was opposed to the Evolution Theory and w as more The trai l was such that "A part of the men became so giddy a discover)' of the follm1 ing composition: than hopeful that in Havasupai he had evidence which would that the_11 were obliged to creep upon their hands and knees, "A. T wo petrified bodies, limestone embeclclecl in sand­ completelv overthrow Mr. D an.1 in's ideas. At the ver y least, being unable to ,valk or stand." Finally he ·was forced to take stone, heights 15 feet and 18 feet, respectively . he ,1 ·as st1re that definite proof existed that man a;1d the his li vestock back. The next day one member of the pan_1r "B. A sandstone beach of former periods, covered ,1 ith dinosa ur ,1 ere ali ve on earth at the same time. Geologists hold that the g-r eat mammoths were extinct for millions of finalh- ,1as worked clow n over the cliffs and visited w ith the human footprints, about 20 inches long, ,,·ith corresponding y ears before m:111 came on the scene. It was merely a point of Hav::isupai Tribe, finding about 200 inhabitants. stride; ... N o doubt the canyon w as entered by a number of peo­ "C. W all pictures showing dinosaur, elephant, ibex, etc., p le, asid e from the Indians themselves, as the vears went as well as human forms. One clra,1·ing is of an elephant at­ This pictogra ph was interpreted as a 111.an being attacked by h_1·. There 11-ere only tw o, however, w ho are i1i1portant to tacking a human; if the size of the elephant corresponds to an elephant. If the scale is accurate, 111.an rwould be 14 or our stor_11 of the giants. In 1879, a party, w hich included an the Primigenius, and if the dra,1 ing is to scale, the man is more feet tall. 18-year-old vouth named Edward L. Doheny, came in on a 18 feet high." pro.specting ·expedition. Later he becam e ori.e of the giants The matter ,1·a s referred to the then Superintendent of of the oil industry. G rand Canyon, J. Ross Eakin . He made a report in J\lay The second ·incliviclual was Samuel F. Hubbard. The 19 24, in ,1 hich he stated, "One of the so-called petrified inclinations of hi s scientific interests may be judged by the giants is in plain vie,1 from the trail. vV e stopped and ex­

fact that he later became Honorar.v Cur.ator of Archeoloo-vD . am ined it very carefully, and to my mind and that of others of th ~ O akland _Museu~11, Oakland, California. Stopping off who viewed it, it would require ,1 very Yivid imagination to at Will1arns, Ari zona, 117 November 1894, he struck np an imagine this formation to be a petrified human being." This acguaintance w ith one Bill Hull. From him he heard the ended any government interest in the matter. story of an 18-foot petrifi ed giant near Supai Village. H e M ea1rn hile, things had been happening in California. A became so interested that he hired }-foll to guide him to the grant of $ 10,000 was made, and on the morning of O ctober spot. H owever, di sappointment was the outcome, as a rock 2 3, , 9 2.:J-, the D oheny Scientific Expedition left Los A ngeles slide had fa ll en from the cliff above and buried the fossi l fo r the Grand Ca nyon. Its personnel included Mr. Hubbard, completel y. Director; R. L. Carso n, photographer; J. F. R oop, sculptor; Hull,· probabl_',' to overcome the natural suspicion that and Freel V . Shaw, li sted as an assista nt. Arri,-ing at th e South he merely had told a verv tall story, gave an exact description Rim, a few complications were encountered. Among other TVhen did some prehistoric man rnake this pictograph on canyon ()f i11 st 11 hat ,1 ould be found if the debris should be removed. things, the expedition had no professional standing despite 'walls of Supai? Did he actually see a dinosaur? Science says iV!aking the excavation did not appear too great a task if a it, im posing name. None of the e.\:pecl ition members was a dinosaurs vanished from the earth before modern man appeared. ct-c11 of laborers could be hired and put to work N either recognized scientist in any fie ld, not to mention those of

PAGE TH I RT Y-S I X .\ I( I Z O" !\ 11 I(; 11 \ \' ,\ Y S .1UL Y l 9 5 l disagreement between religious fundamentalists and scientists three times as tall as our modern six-footers. At the time of which was to culminate a few years later in the famous our first visit to the dinosaur pictograph, he was positive that Scopes trial in Tennessee. he could prove that giants once lived in the canyon. He was The day after our arrival in camp, we were taken to a more than confident that he would find their fossil remains. point in the canyon where a scaffold had been erected against Not the least of the items in his chain of proof was a a sheer ledge. About 20 feet above the creek bed, a platform pictograph which he asserted showed an elephant attacking topped this structure. Here Carson was busy taking pictures a man. We found that the exhibit in question did portray of a pictograph which anyone must admit bears a startling an elephant-like creature reaching out and whacking a human resemblance to a dinosaur. Later the sculptor made plaster over the head with its trunk. There is no doubt but that the casts of the impression. The figure was 1 1 .2 inches high and position of the victim would indicate fear and terror. His 7 inches wide. Mr. Hubbard's reasoning on the matter was arms are thrown aloft in the usual position assumed when simple-if the prehistoric man who chipped the outline of a cry of "Help! Help!" is uttered. Further, if both figures the great beast into the desert varnish on the rock surface are drawn to scale, he would be correct in assuming that knew what a dinosaur looked like, he 111ust have seen one. the man was 14 or more feet tall. As added proof, he pointed out that tracks of the monster According to recollections from his early visits, Mr. are found on the Painted Desert near Tuba City and less Hubbard stated that there were two petrified giant humans than I oo miles from the pictograph itself. in the canyon. One of these, first brought to his attention by In the expedition's report we find the following: "The Hull, was buried ( of course) in a recess on the side of the fact that some prehistoric man made a pictograph of a dino­ canyon. If I remember correctly, he reported he had reason saur on the walls of this canyon upsets completelv all of our to believe that the specimen was stretched out on a rock theories regarding the antiquity of man. Facts ai·e stubborn bier and was 1 5 feet tall. Further, that it was a perfect human and immutable things. If theories do not square with the form with arms folded across the breast. facts, then the theories must change, the facts remain." The second was, and I presume still is, visible from the To me the answer would seem to be dependent on a main trail about two miles above the agency headquarters. person's own beliefs. If you think, for instance, that the On a shelf in a slanting crevice on the south side of the story of the creation as told in Genesis supports the opinion wash is what appears to be a giant human form lying face that man and all other forms of life came on earth about the down with his head pilio-wed on the left forearm. The image same time, then your inclination would be to agree that the is about 60 feet up. There is no way to reach it by a direct artist of antiquity did see a dinosaur and knew it as a living approach, and the only possible access is from above. To us contemporary. Any ranger-naturalist who has given geology this looked simple. However, one hard day of climbing over lectures to park visitors knows from experience that a lot of ledges and around canyons was ahead before we would people believe that the world and all in it were created within stand on this spot less than 100 feet away! a week. When we started to reach the remains, among other On the other hand, the geologist will point out that the things, we were equipped with a rope ladder brought from cliff on which the picture appears is of the Permian Period. Los Angeles. The sculptor also carried a good supply of After these beds were formed other formations were ac­ plaster of paris with which to make casts. Several men were ... cumulated over them for millions and millions of years, until loaded with the water necessary to mix enough plaster to If there were giants in those days they surely picked a beautiful place to live, for Supailand is a nziniatu;e fairyland. Triassic time when a giant lizard on the now Painted Desert cover an 18-foot figure. Starting early in the morning, we did \1 ·alked upright across a mud flat and left clear imprints of not reach the point selected until late afternoon. The ladder his footsteps 16 inches long, 14 inches wide and with a stride ,vas lowered down the steep slope and Dr. Gilmore de­ down and leaning against a back wall, and that we probably main Grand Canyon from Havasupai. Here futile search was of 5 2 inches. Over his tracks thousands of feet of additional scended to take a look. He immediately pronounced it a would be able to get to one end of it the next day. So again made for the 20-inch footprints with corresponding stride. sediments were deposited in the millions of years which fol­ freak rock formation. Also, that even if it were a human Hubbard went up with us. Toward evening we finally got to Other expected discoveries also failed to mature. lo\\'ed and leading up to the time when tl-ie first traces of body, the proportions were such that the remains represented an end of it and Hubbard was plenty excited. When ,ve Although I have no knowledge that he admitted it, I man are found. a very grotesque individual. Superintendent Eakin's state­ opened up around the end of the stone, sure enough there am sure that the conclusion that the leader of the expedition The cutting of the Grand Canyon, which started in ment that a vivid imagination was required ·was fully sub­ was a triangular shaped cavity formed by a broken down was disappointed over the outcome is true. Certainly he comparatively recent times, reversed the building-up process stantiated. overhanging shelf rock leaning against a back ,, all. It was damned his discoveries with faint praise \\·hen his report con­ in this localit)r· During uncounted centuries the Colorado Previously it has been written that Hull gave Hubbard a pretty dark, but by staring in a bit we could make out some­ cluded with this statement, "While it is ciuite true that nature River carried away the 10,000 feet of accumulated sediments very exact description of the situation under the rock slide. thing big, roundish in shape, and white. Hubbard was cer­ makes many freaks resembling all sorts of things, yet we which finally overlay rhe Supai site. After millions of years, It is known that he told him the fossil was lying under an tain now that this was the skull of the giant. Then I went in. feel there is enough doubt in this whole matter to warrant the erosive forces finally exposed the cliff face in Havasupai overhanging shelf of rock, that this shelf had undoubtedly The floor was dry and dusty, and as I remember the cavity a more complete examination by a party prepared to spend Canyon and gave the primitive artist his rock canvas. Not broken down under the impact of the avalanche but th~t was only about three feet high. I rolled out one large lime­ the necessary time." more than 50 years ago were the tracks of the desert again there was no question but that it would be found in a cavity stone boulder. There was nothing else in there, no giant, no I have checked with two members of the expedition­ brought to light. To this branch of science, therefore, the formed by the broken shelf resting against the back wall. other stones. Hubbard was mighty disappointed, as who all that I can locate after 24 years. The patron, Doheny, to­ time lapse between availability of the cliff for picture making In a recent letter, Art Metzger has given me the details wouldn't he?" gether with Hubbard, Gilmore and Roop, long ago packed and any possibility of the artist seeing the track-making dino­ of the operations to uncover this, the original Hull giant. Metzger then goes on to state, "And I know that it both­ out up the mystic cmyon trail over \\ hich there is no return saur in the Aesh is so long as to be utterly incomprehensible. Apparently, at first, Hubbard did not find the proper spot. ered him, first that Hull had told him such a story; and travel. J\iletzger, as has been mentioned, is postmaster at the Dr. Gilmore, paleontologist, dismissed the matter as an After some wasted effort, he gave the photograph, made in second, how did Hull know that there was an overhanging Grand Canyon. Carson, well in his seventies, is still an active accident or coincidence. The doctor would perhaps have i894, to Metzger and allowed him to run another location rock there broken down by the slide and leaning against its photograpl~er in Los Angeles. I am sure he would be fully been more impressed if the careful search which was made survey. Soon a point was found where every item matched, wall? And if he knew that, perhaps Hull had seen the giant capable of documenting another such strenuous exploration. had turned up at least one more etching which even came even the boulders and rocks being in exact position. Work there, and perhaps it had been removed previous to the slide. Our conclusion-No! We don't think there ,vere giants in those days. At least there is no good evidence that they ever close to resembling a dinosaur. was started on this second site the next morning. He had plenty to wonder about, because of this coincidence." existed in the land of the Havasupai. However, as the years You will note that the pictograph was about 20 feet The results are best told in my correspondent's own After disposing of the giants, the expedition left the go on, we will all continue to wonder just what Bill Hull up on a vertical cliff. Mr. Hubbard's explanation of this was words. "Finally, one evening I informed Hubbard that ·we canyon and moved out on the Great Thumb, the long nar­ row point that nms north for about 14 miles and divides the first saw under that overhang! simplicit)' itself. The man who made it was a giant, probably had come upon what appeared to be a shelf of rock, broken

P!\GE Tl-lIRTY-E!GI-IT !\RIZO:--A 1-II CH\VAYS JULY 1951 You•• tincerely NAVAJO PRONUI\'CIATION: rou ha l'C: surpassed _\·ourself. I wish specially ~o . . . I am pleased to read the letter of Mrs. o·i,·c credit to Paul Coze, the artist who did D . N . Lew is regarding the pronunciation of ~hcse wonderfully colorful and authentic il­ A gat/.1 /a in your last issu e, and l appreciate your lustrations. It is a terrific issue. in,·itation to further discussion. Max Tatch May I say that the Nava jo language as spoken Hollywood, California has a peculiar softness and mellowness that is • Paul Coze's paintings in May issue were well­ expressi,·e of the gentle Na\·ajo nature and is received by readers of ARIZO NA HIGHW AYS. T,V e in marked contrast w ith the hard, abrupt sounds k1wu: of the time and thought spent on the71l of the language that "we moderns" speak. The and ·we say: "Bravo, too, Paul!" name of the great desert landmark, Agathla, is a good exalllpl e. PRETTY PICTURES: The Na,·a,o consonant that we write tbl 1s ... For several months now, I ha ve been re­ not like anv sound in the English language. It ceiving copies of your magazine ARIZONA HtGH­ A DOBE WALLS occurs in manv of their words, such as the WAYS, through the courtesy of a personal friend There's no dissembling in adobe walls: nu111cral at/.1/a , One, and the name of the village of mine. D irt they were, and d irt thev w ill rclllain, of Toat/.ilina, or Two-grav-hills, south of Ship So now I ha ve become one of your ardent Yct in their hu mble strength Rock, w hich some modern barbarians corrupt and appreciative readers. I cannot find words at T hey stand in dignity upon the su nbaked plain, into ·'To-ad-a-leen, " or some similar atrocious my command to fully express my sentiment, but As though in gratitude for111. w ish to take this opportunity of thanking you To men w hose ca llouse d hands It is not ha{·d to learn to pronounce the th/ and all concerned for producing reading ma­ First formed the ragged bricks sound. Begin with our letter t. This is formed terial of such fine type, then gloriously color­ And built of them an earthy sacristy by pressing the tongue to the roof of the mouth fu l, interesting and educational. For li ves they held most dear. and then allowing air to escape explosively over Now l ha ve a little stmy here that I thought For centuries they've borne with plac id mien the tip of the tongue. Next, instead of the ex­ might be of interest to you, a sort of a novel The buffeting of desert winds and rains plosi,·e puff of t let the air escape gently over idea relative to the beautiful color-shots found in vVhosc purpose seems to be the tip of the tongue, and we have the th sound your magazme. To se parate t he closely press in g gra in s as in "through." Now place the tongue on the In our home we have two large French doors, And give t hem back to earth, roof of the mouth as before, keep the tip of mahogany, with ·w hite casings. The rooms are \,\/ here they may wait another million years the tongue pressed in place, and allow the air large and have plenty of space for decorative For men to sec their worth. to escape gently over the sides of the tongue. work, so we conceived the idea of placing said \TA DA F. CARI.SON That is the Navajo consonant sound that we pictures in the glass panels, alternating with spell th/. plain white so as to bring out the colors more Try it in the name Agathla and see how soft clearly . This made a very unusual and striking CALL OF T HE DESERT and 1i1usical it sounds, and don't forget to accent A l ittle cactus plant in Jersey grows, effect. the final sy llabi c, a. All the "a's" have the broad I ha ve many customers that call here at my A potted pl ant, its roots can Ii ttlc spread. sound ~is i"n "art." Nor ever is it toss'd by rain or snows. place of business, as I am an Interior Decorator, ls not that a more pleasant sound than the and this door has attracted much attention, as harsh Yankee substitute, Y ct, w hen the desert lifts its flo w'ring head, they study the door ai 1d the pictures. Shall we not also learn to sav, like the Nava­ My li ttle cactus plant in Jersey kn ows, I always keep copies of your magazine handy jos, Hetata-ki'l, and K eet-seal, ' the last syllable A nd stretches forth its tiny blossollls red . where people may revie w them at their leisure. being as much like our word "sail" as anything E LI ZA BETH L. BABCOCK Pictures have been taken of this door, which we can spell with our letters? I submit, with my compliments. Frederick K. Vreeland i\llrs. Hulda Sitler T IME FLOWS THROUGH THOUGHTS Mill Valley, California Youngsville, Penna. Days fl ow into each • It is imeresting to kno·w N m.1ajo pronuncia­ • TV e are proud to kno·w of Mrs. Sitler's use Other like spi ll ed quicksil ve r tion attracts t/.ie attemion of our readers. It is a of our pages! Sunny skies always! A nd lose their patterns. beau tiful language. 1-IARRIET C HAPM AN B UT LER "FRONTIER SHINDIG": TO A R ED CARDINAL IN MY ELM TREE ... Ramon F. Adams paints a most \·ivid picture T he clarion call of the cardin al fill s w ith hi s pen in "Shaking A Hoof." In fact, T he chill spring air w ith vibrant wa\· es of joy; c1·c rv paragraph is a picture in technicolor, Again st a clea r, blue sky he sits and trills, taken in the davs w hen fellows and gals danced w ith tbeir feet. 1-1 is head held hig h he sings: "T here's nothing 1-1 a ,·c passed the stor v on to 1llanv old-timers can destroy M v notes that rise full -throated on the air, in t his counrrv. All agree that is the best de­ sc ription of "Frontier Shindig" that thev It ·nwtters not if spring be loathe to colllc a Cl'Cr read. · Nor w hether skies arc lowering or fair; Bula Otey K else\· A cardinal was made to sin g the sun1 Of all God's mysteries; it is hi s right. Klamath · Falls, Oregon Song is not so mething that must wait on t hings, • lfo111 o'll Ada111s ·will drop around again soon. Nor kept for days that bri1ll w ith rare delight; G lad yo7t all like hi'III . TV e t/.iink l.1e's grand! J trust t hi s branch so small; I ha l'c two w ings." TAKE A BOW, PAUL: A h 1llan I w hv do you sit w ith voice so still ... I w ish to compliment you on the May issue \Vhcn in y our elm tree red card in als trill ? of the magazine. I have alwavs admired the art­ c.~ 1WLY N \V1-1cELER AvutY work that appears in vour pages, but this t ime

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"DRY ARE THE DUNES" BY ROBERT P. HOLLAND. Much nf "NAVAJOS- A FAMILY PORTRAIT" BY RALPH H. ANDERSON. Navajoland is a waste of sand. Economicall y, 11 1nst of t his !:ind is usel ess One of the dominant characteristics of the Navajos is their love of fam­ because it ca nnot support grass for grazin g sheep. The Narnjo has sur­ ily . ln the family group, the mother is the dominating influence and vived in it, being tough and sturdy like the tree. \ Vhen w ind patterns guides well and lovingly the li ves of her familv. Navajo. children turn streak the sand, the dune is a thing of beauty . to their mothers for guidance.