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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Jean-Bernard Carillet Big thanks to all the people I met while on the Many thanks to the travellers who used the last road for their tips and recommendations, in- edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful cluding Jean-Paul and Axelle, Cosimo, Isabelle advice and interesting anecdotes: Dupuis and Elsie. At LP, thanks to Matt Phillips Sarah Almond, Michel Bal, Barbara Calvi, Jennifer for his trust and all the editors and cartos for Cartaino, Howard Chan, Mark Darter, Joseph Funk, their commitment. A heartfelt merci beaucoup Claire Gilmore, Lucie Lacombe, Audun Lem, Samira to fellow author Anthony, who is a pleasure to Lindner, Alexander McLarren, Pertti Metiainen, Jakub work with. Last but not least, a gros bisou to my Nalepa, Carina Ek Petrini, Will Rogers, Peter Sharrock, daughter Eva, who’s also in love with Réunion. Björn Suttka, Eva Torkar, Caroline Vassarotti ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS WRITER THANKS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Anthony Ham World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Sincere and undying thanks to Matt Phillips who Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System keeps sending me to places like this and for Sciences, 11, 163344. years of shared passions. In , special thanks to Deon in Trou aux Biches, Laval and Cover photograph: Grand Anse, Praslin, Sey- Françoise Baptiste in , Teddy and chelles; Davide Erbetta/4Corners © Shekti in Rodrigues, and Dr Vikash Tatayah of the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation. To Jan, for keeping the home fires burning and for a lifetime of sacrifice. And to Marina, Carlota and Valenti- na, my companions on the road – os adoro. 352

Destination Editor Matt Cover Researcher Naomi THIS BOOK Phillips Parker This 9th edition of Lonely Product Editor Jenna Myers Thanks to Jennifer Carey, Planet’s Mauritius, Réunion Senior Cartographer Corey Gemma Graham, Liz Heynes, & guidebook was Hutchison Alexander Howard, Lauren BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND researched and written by Keith, Claire Naylor, Karyn Book Designer Wibowo Rusli Jean-Bernard Carillet and Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Assisting Editors Sarah Bai- Anthony Ham, who also wrote Kathryn Rowan, Ellie Simpson, ley, Nigel Chin, Charlie Claxton, the previous edition. This Vicky Smith, Angela Tinson, Melanie Dankel, Kellie Lang- guidebook was produced by Anna Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic don, Anne Mulvaney, Rosie the following: Nicholson, Charlotte Orr ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 353

Index

ABBREVIATIONS aquariums Plage de Boucan Canot Île aux Cerfs (M) 125 Aquarium de la Réunion (R) 196 Île aux Chats (M) 174 M Mauritius (R) 197 Plage de Grande Anse Île aux Cocos (M) 173 (R) 247 R Réunion Mauritius Aquarium Île Hermitage (M) 174 (M) 63 Plage de la Souris Chaude S Seychelles (S) 321 architecture 13 (R) 205 La Gaulette (M) 101 colonial 138 Plage de L’Étang-Salé-les- Mahébourg (M) 108-9 A Creole 161 Bains (R) 212 Rodrigues (M) 172 accommodation, see Mauritius 82, 138-9 Plage de L’Hermitage individual islands, villas (R) 202 St-Gilles-les-Bains (R) Réunion 274 activities, see individual Plage de Petit Boucan 197-8 activities area codes 17 (R) 196 Trou d’Eau Douce (M) 124 adventure sports 71, 100, art Plage de St-Pierre (R) boat travel 254 Mauritius 138 240 Mauritius 153, 154 air travel Seychelles 333-4 Plage de Terre Sainte Seychelles 339-40 Mauritius 153-4 art galleries, see galleries (R) 240 books 132, see also Réunion 282-3 arts, see also individual arts Plage de Trou d’Eau literature Seychelles 339 Mauritius 136-8 (R) 205 Boucan Canot (R) 196-7 Atoll (S) 329 Réunion 273-4 Plage des Brisants (R) 197 Bourg-Murat (R) 233, 234 (S) 329 Seychelles 333-4 Plage des Roches Noires Bras-Panon (R) 263-4 (R) 197 (S) 329 ATMs Bras-Sec (R) 225-6 Praslin (S) 309 Alphonse Island (S) 329 Mauritius 150 Brissare Rocks (S) 33, 32 Tamarin Beach (M) 91 Amirantes Group (S) 329 Réunion 280 budget 17 Beau Vallon (S) 295-9, 296 amusement parks Seychelles 337 bus travel Bé Mahot (R) 227 Domaine Les Pailles (M) Aurère 232 Mauritius 154 Belle Mare (M) 127-9 58-9 Réunion 283 Bel Ombre (M) 119 La Forêt de L’Aventure Seychelles 340 (R) 194 B bicycle travel, see cycling Baie du Cap (M) 120 business hours 17 Le Relais du Maïdo Bird Island (S) 329 Balaclava (M) 63 Mauritius 151 (R) 194 birds Bas Mafate (R) 41, 231 Réunion 281 animals 18, 31, 335, see Mauritius 102, 113, 142-3 Basse-Vallée (R) 255-6 Seychelles 338 also individual species Réunion 276 bathrooms Mauritius 113, 141-3 Seychelles 329 Mauritius 152 Réunion 276 birdwatching C beaches 18, 163 Seychelles 335 Mauritius 174 café marron 174 Anse Cocos (S) 163, 162 Anse Cocos (S) 163, 162 Réunion 276 canyoning 159 Anse Georgette (S) 163, Anse Georgette (S) 163, Black River (Rivière Noire) Cilaos (R) 218-19 309, 162-3 309, 162-3 (M) 91-6, 5 Hell-Bourg (R) 228 Anse Lazio (S) 11, 308, Anse Lazio (S) 11, 308, 11 11 Black River Gorges National Le Grand Brûlé (R) 258-9 Anse Source d’Argent (S) Anse Source d’Argent Park (M) 99-101 Ste-Suzanne (R) 261 (S) 320-1 163, 163 Blue Bay (M) 112-16 Cap Malheureux (M) 80-1 Anse Volbert (S) 308 Anse Volbert (S) 308 boat tours Cap Méchant (R) 255-6 Beau Vallon (S) 295 Beau Vallon (S) 295-6 Carnegie Library (M) 61 Carana Beach (S) 295 Black River (M) 93 car travel Gris Gris Beach (M) 117 Blue Bay (M) 113 Mauritius 155-6 La Digue (S) 321 Flic en Flac (M) 87 Réunion 283 Map Pages 000 Mahé (S) 301, 304-5 Photo Pages 000 Grand Baie (M) 70-1, 74 Seychelles 340 354 carri 274 Notre Dame des Anges Réunion 219-21, 283 Western Mauritius 88 cases créoles 213 (M) 107-8 Seychelles 339 Dos d’Ane (R) 191 castles & fortresses Notre Dame des Laves cyclones 151 drinks (R) 267 Fort Adelaide (M) 52 Mauritius 139-41 St Gabriel Church Martello Tower (M) 92 Réunion 274-5 (M) 174 D catamaran tours, see also Seychelles 334 dance 161, 160-1

INDEX INDEX St James Cathedral boat tours vin de Cilaos 224 (M) 53 Mauritius 137-8 Mauritius 146 driving, see car travel St Louis Cathedral (M) 53 Réunion 273-4 cathedrals, see churches & driving tours St-Pierre Church (R) 241 Seychelles 333 C- cathedrals Black River Gorges  Cilaos (R) 217-25, dangers, see safety F 220  Cavadee festival (R) 262, 15 National Park (M) 102 Cirque de Cilaos (R) 37, de Chazal, Malcolm 136 Caverne Patate (M) 173 Central Mauritius 124 215, 217-26, 37 de Souza, Carl 136 caving Cirque de Mafate (R) 9, de St-Pierre, Bernardin 48, Le Grand Brûlé (R) 231-2, 81, 106, 137 258-9 8-9 E Cirque de Salazie (R) 39, de Lisle, Leconte 191 East Coast (S) 301-4 cell phones 16 226-31, 39 decompression sickness Eastern Mauritius 121- Mauritius 152 Cirques, the (R) 215-32, 345 30, 122 Réunion 281 216-17 deep-sea fishing 92 Eastern Réunion 259-69, Seychelles 338 climate 16 Denis Island (S) 9, 328, 9 260 Central Plateau (M) coconuts 151, 314 Desroches (S) 329 echo parakeets 143 57-62, 58 coffee 270 Desroches Island (S) 164 economy Chagos Islands (M) 132 Col des Boeufs (R) 230-1 Diego Garcia (M) 132 Mauritius 130 Chamarel (M) 14, 96-9, colonisation disabilities, travellers with Réunion 270 97, 14 Mauritius 131-3 Mauritius 152 Seychelles 330 chambres d’hôtes 13, 13 Réunion 270-1 Réunion 282 Eden Island (S) 291-3 Mauritius 145-6 Conrad, Joseph 137 Seychelles 338 electricity Réunion 278 consulates Divali (Dipavali) 21, 262 Mauritius 149 Champ de Mars Mauritius 148-50 Réunion 279 Racecourse (M) 52 diving 27-34 Réunion 279 Seychelles 337 Château Labourdonnais Beau Vallon (S) 295 (M) 82 Seychelles 337 beginner divers 29 embassies chikungunya 343 costs 17 Blue Bay (M) 113-14 Mauritius 148-9 children, travel with Mauritius 146, 150-1 Étang-Salé-les-Bains Seychelles 337 Mauritius 148 Réunion 279, 280 (R) 212 emergencies 17 Réunion 279 Seychelles 336, 338 Flic en Flac (M) 87 Entre-Deux (R) 213-15 Seychelles 336 credit cards health 344-5 environment Chinatown (M) 52 Mauritius 150 La Digue (S) 308, 321-2 Mauritius 141-5 Chinese New Year 20 Réunion 280 Mahe (S) 300 Réunion 276-7 churches & cathedrals Seychelles 338 Mahébourg (M) 108 Seychelles 334-5 Anglican Church (S) 288 Creole culture 21 Mauritius 10, 27-9, 10 environmental issues Cathedral of the Creole people 135, 271 Mont Choisy (M) 66 Mauritius 131, 145 Immaculate cross-country running Pereybère (M) 77 Réunion 277 Conception (S) 286 Réunion 243 Praslin (S) 308, 309-10 Seychelles 335 Cathédrale de St-Denis cultural centres responsible diving 28 Étang-Salé-les-Bains (R) (R) 183 SSR Memorial Centre for Réunion 29-30 212-13 Chapel and Shrine of events, see festivals & Culture (M) 52 Rodrigues (M) 29, 174-5 Marie Reine de la Paix culture 161 events (M) 49 safety 344-5 Mauritius 133-6 exchange rates Église (Ste-Anne) (R) Seychelles 14, 31-4 Réunion 271-3 Mauritius 150 266 Southeastern Mauritius Seychelles 332-3 Réunion 280 Notre Dame Auxiliatrice 109 Curepipe (M) 60-2 Seychelles 338 (M) 80, 160 St-Gilles-les-Bains (R) 198-9 Notre-Dame de la Curieuse Island 316 Délivrance (R) 183 currency 16 St-Leu (R) 207-8 F Notre-Dame de la customs regulations St-Pierre (R) 242-3 festivals & events 15, 20-1, Salette (R) 207 Mauritius 148 Western Mauritius 83 161, 15 Réunion 279 dodos 142-3 films 132 Seychelles 336-7 dolphins 10 fire-walking ceremonies Map Pages 000 cycling dolphin-watching 262, 273, 161 Photo Pages 000 Mauritius 154 Black River (M) 92 355 fishing 92 H Domaine des Tourelles internet access Black River (M) 93 Haut Mafate (R) 39-41, 231 (R) 238 Mauritius 149 Flic en Flac (M) 87 health 342-5 Eureka (M) 59-60 Réunion 280 Grand Baie (M) 71 checklist 342-3 Maison Folio (R) 227 Seychelles 337 Mauritius 92 infectious diseases 343-4 Maison Martin Valliamé itineraries 22-6 (R) 263 Rodrigues (M) 175 websites 343 Central Plateau (M) 61

Sœurs de Saint-Joseph INDEX St-Gilles-les-Bains heat exhaustion 345 Rodrigues (M) 25 de Cluny (R) 240 (R) 199 heatstroke 345 St Aubin (M) 120 Flic en Flac (M) 83-91, 86 helicopter tours St-Denis (R) 182

J  F-L food Cirques, the (R) 219 St-Pierre (R) 241 Jhowry, Sanjay 77

 carri 274 Hell-Bourg (R) 227-30, 228 Victoria (S) 287 Mauritius 139-41 hepatitis A 343 historic sites Réunion 274-5 K hepatitis B 343-4 La Route du Sel (M) 92 Seychelles 334 kabars 274 hiking 18, 159, 158-9 L’Union Estate & Copra vanilla 263, 264 Kaya 135 Black River Gorges Factory (S) 319 vegetarians & vegans kayaking National Park (M) 100 Morne Seychellois 140, 275 Grand Gaube (M) 81 Central Plateau (M) 60 National Park (S) 300 forests, see also national Praslin (S) 311 Cilaos (R) 219-25 history 161 parks & reserves kitesurfing 147 Cirque de Mafate (R) 232 Mauritius 131-3 Forêt de Bébour-Bélouve Le Morne Peninsula Dos d’Ane (R) 191 (R) 242 Réunion 270-1 (M) 104 Forêt de Bébour-Bélouve Forêt Ste-Marguerite Seychelles 331-2 Rodrigues (M) 175 (R) 265 (R) 242 hitching François Leguat Reserve Hell-Bourg (R) 227-8 Mauritius 156 (M) 172-3 La Digue (S) 320 HIV 344 L Franco-Mauritians 136 Le Dimitile (R) 213-14 holidays La Digue (S) 317-27, 318, Frégate Island (S) 164, Le Maïdo (R) 195 Mauritius 151 164 La Fenêtre (R) 214 329, 165 Le Morne Peninsula (M) Réunion 281 fruit bats 113 103-4 Seychelles 338 La Gaulette (M) 101-3, 97 Mauritius 99, 147 horse riding 147 La Passe (S) 318 Morne Seychellois Bourg-Murat (R) 234 La Route du Sel (M) 92 G National Park (S) 302 La Route du Thé (M) 121 galleries Chamarel (M) 96 Piton de la Fournaise La Saline-les-Bains (R) La Fenêtre (R) 214 Galerie du Moulin Cassé (R) 239 205-6 (M) 77 Le Morne Peninsula Piton des Neiges (R) 221 landscapes 18-19 Kaz Zanana (S) 286 (M) 104 planning 36 languages 16, 346-50 L’Artothèque (R) 183 Mont Choisy (M) 66 Réunion 35-42 Laval, Père Jacques- Philippe Turpin’s Studio Pailles (M) 59 Rodrigues (M) 175 Désiré 53 (R) 218 St-Benoît (R) 265 signage 147 Le Baril (R) 256-7 Victoria 1840 (M) 123 St-Joseph (R) 247 Vieux Grand Port (M) Le Clézio, JMG 137 hot springs Ganga Talao (M) 98 116-17 Le Dimitile (R) 213-15 gay travellers, see LGBT Cilaos (R) 222 Hindu temples 160 Le Grand Brûlé (R) 258-9 travellers Chapelle Front de Mer Le Maïdo (R) 35, 194-5, 35 giant tortoises 19, 142, (R) 261 I 335, 19 Le Morne Brabant (M) Sagar Shiv Mandir Île aux Aigrettes (M) 112 103, gîtes de montagne 5 (M) 127 Île aux Bénitiers (M) 104 Réunion 278 Le Morne Peninsula (M) Shiv Kalyan Vath Mandir Île aux Cerfs (M) 125, 126-7 103-5 golf 147 (M) 70 Île Cocos (S) 32, 32 Le Saint Géran (M) 164 Belle Mare (M) 127 Sri Navasakthi Vinyagar Île des Deux Cocos (M) 113 Le Souffleur (M) 118 Black River (M) 92-3 Temple (S) 286 Îlet à Cordes (R) 225 Le Tévelave (R) 211-12 Île aux Cerfs (M) 126 Surya Oudaya Sangam Îlet-à-Vidot (R) 227 legal matters Grand Baie (M) 69-77, 72 (M) 70 Îlet Bethléem (R) 266 Mauritius 149-50 Grand Bassin (M) 98 Tamil Temple (R) 183 Îlet Chicot (R) 215 Réunion 280 Grand Bassin (R) 233 Temple of Colosse (R) 262 independence Seychelles 337 Grand Coude (R) 252-3 historic buildings Aapravasi Ghat (M) 49 Mauritius 133 leptospirosis 344 Grand Étang (R) 264-5, 42 Château Labourdonnais Seychelles 331-2 Les Hautes Plaines (R) Grand Gaube (M) 81 (M) 82 Indian-Mauritians 135 232-9, 216-17 Grand Îlet (R) 230-1 Domaine des Aubineaux insect bites 345 Les Hauts (R) 254-5 Grande Montagne Nature (M) 61 insect stings 345 Les Hauts de St-Paul Reserve (M) 173 insurance 149, 342, 345 (R) 194 356 Les Makes (R) 214 children, travel with 148 Matthew Flinders Martello Tower (M) 92 lesbian travellers, see LGBT consulates 148 Monument (M) 120 Mauritius Postal travellers culture 133 Monument to Dutch Museum (M) 49 Levasseur, Olivier ‘La customs regulations 148 Landing (M) 116 Musée de Villèle (R) 199 Buse’ 191 disabilities, travellers Roland Garros Musée des Musiques LGBT travellers with 152 Monument (R) 183 et Instruments de

INDEX INDEX Trevassa Monument l’Océan Indien (R) 227 Mauritius 149-50 diving 10, 10 (M) 119 Musée d’Histoire Réunion 280 drinks 139-41 Morne Seychellois National Naturelle (R) 183 Seychelles 337 economy 130 Park (S) 12, 300-1, Musée Léon Dierx

(L-N L’Hermitage-les-Bains (R  electricity 149 302, 12 (R) 183 202-5, 203 embassies 148 mosques National History  literature, see also books environment 141-5 Attyaboul Massadjid Museum (M) 105-6 Mauritius 136-7 food 46, 139-41 Mosque (R) 240-1 Natural History Museum Réunion 273 highlights 47, 47 Jummah Mosque (M) 53 & Mauritius Institute Seychelles 333 history 131-3 Mosquée Noor E Islam (M) 49 insurance 149 (R) 182-3 Natural History Museum M internet access 149 Sheikh Mohamed bin (S) 287 magazines itineraries 22, 26 Khalifa Mosque (S) Photography Museum 288 (M) 52 Réunion 281 legal matters 149 motorcycle travel Rault Biscuit Factory Seychelles 340 LGBT travellers 149 Mauritius 155 (M) 106-7 Maha Shivaratri (M) 98 maps 150 Réunion 190 Rhumerie de Chamarel Mahé (S) 286-307, 287, money 150-1 (M) 96 Seychelles 340 290, 2 opening hours 151 Robert Edward Hart mountain biking Mahébourg (M) 105-12, politics 130-1 Museum (M) 118 Chamarel (M) 96 110 postal services 151 Stella Matutina (R) 211 Cilaos (R) 219 malaria 344 public holidays 151 World of Seashells St-Gilles-les-Bains maloya 273-4 religion 136 (M) 91 (R) 199 maps shopping 56 music 161 mountains Mauritius 150 stamps 49 Mauritius 137-8 Corps de Garde (M) 60 Réunion 38, 280 tourist information 152 Réunion 273-4 Le Pouce (M) 60 Seychelles 337 travel seasons 46 Seychelles 333 Moyenne Island (S) 294 marine life 345 travel to/from 153, 154 multiculturalism 161 marine parks & reserves, travel within 153-6 museums N see national parks & volunteering 153 nature reserves Blue Penny Museum national parks & nature work 153 reserves 144, 277, 335 markets (M) 48 measures Bois Chéri Tea Plantation Black River Gorges Mahébourg (M) 105 National Park (M) Mauritius 149 (M) 121 (M) 48 99-101, 102 Réunion 281 Cité du Volcan (R) 233 Port Mathurin (M) 167 Blue Bay Marine Park Seychelles 340 Curious Corner of Saturday Market (M) 112-13 medical services 343 Chamarel (M) 96 (Rodrigues) 167, 10 Domaine de Bel Ombre mobile phones 16 Espace Culturel St-Pierre (R) 240, 242 (M) 119 Mauritius 152 Muséographique Victoria (S) 286 Domaine de l’Étoile Réunion 281 du Dimitile – Camp Mauritian kestrels 113, 116, Marron (R) 213 (M) 117 Seychelles 338 142-3 Frederik Hendrik Kestrel Valley (M) 116 Moka (M) 59-60 Mauritius 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, Museum (M) 116 Mauritius 144-5 money 16, 17 43, 46-156, 47, 50-1, Kelonia (R) 207 Morne Seychellois , , , , , Mauritius 150-1 58 64-5 67 70 72 La Maison de Laurina National Park (S) 12, 78, 84, 86, 97, 106-7, Réunion 280-1 (R) 252 300-1, 302, 12 110, 122 Seychelles 337-8 La Saga du Rhum (R) 241 Pointe aux Piments accommodation 46, 71, (M) 63 money changers L’Aventure du Sucre 89, 145-6 Praslin National Park Mauritius 150 (M) 82 activities 146-8 (S) 309 Réunion 282 Maison Carrère (R) 183 architecture 133-6 Réunion 277 Mont Choisy (M) 64-9, 67 Maison de la Broderie arts 136-8 monuments (R) 218 Ste Anne Marine National Park (S) Maison des Vins du Chai Clock Tower (S) 286 293-4 de Cilaos (R) 218 Liberty Monument Vallée de Ferney (M) 116 Map Pages 000 (S) 286 Maison du Curcuma newspapers Photo Pages 000 (R) 252 Mauritius 149 357 Réunion 281 planning 43-4 Réunion 9, 10, 12, 13, 44, tourist information 172 Seychelles 340 budgeting 17 180-283, 181, 184-5, tours 172 North Coast (S) 295 calendar of events 20-1 192, 198, 203, 207, travel seasons 166 North Island (S) 328 internet resources 17 216-17, 220, 228, 234, travel within 178 , , , , Northern Mauritius 62-83, itineraries 22-6 237 240 248 260 ruins 158-9 64-5 Mauritius, Réunion and Baie de l’Arsenal (M) 63 accommodation 180, Notre Dame Auxiliatrice the Seychelles basics INDEX 278-9 Thermal Bath (R) 227 (M) 80, 160 16-17 rum travel seasons 16, 20-1 arts 273-4 children, travel with 279 distilleries 262 plantations  N-S O consulates 279 museums 241 Bananaland – Domaine Rhumerie de  opening hours d’Aldachris (R) 268 culture 271-3 Mauritius 151 Chamarel (M) 96 La Vanilleraie (R) 261 customs regulations 279 Réunion 281 Plantation de Vanille disabilities, travellers Seychelles 338 Roulof (R) 263 with 282 S plants drinks 274-5 safety P Mauritius 144 economy 270 Mauritius 56, 151 electricity 279 Pailles (M) 58-9 Réunion 276-7 Réunion 281 Palmar (M) 127-9 Seychelles 335 environment 276-7 Salazie (R) 226 food 180, 274-5 Pamplemousses (M) 15, Pointe aux Canonniers seafood 13, 13 81-3, 15 (M) 70 highlights 181, 181 sealife 31 paragliding Pointe aux Piments (M) 63 history 270-1 séga 137, 161, 273 St-Leu (R) 12, 208, 12 Pointe d’Esny (M) 112-16, 163 internet access 280 seggae 135, 137 parks & gardens 15 politics itineraries 23, 26 Seychelles 9, 11, 12, 14, 44, Botanical Gardens Mauritius 130-1 legal matters 280 284-340, 285, 287, (S) 286 Réunion 269-70 LGBT travellers 280 290, 292, 296, 310-11, , Botanical Gardens Seychelles 330 maps 280 318 328 accommodation 284, Curepipe (M) 60-1 population money 280-1 336 Conservatoire Botanique Mauritius 135 opening hours 281 arts 333-4 National de Mascarin Réunion 272 politics 269-70 (R) 211 children, travel with 336 Seychelles 333 public holidays 281 Jardin de l’État (R) 183 consulates 337 Port Louis (M) 48-57, religion 272-3 Jardin des 5 Sens (M) culture 332-3 50-1, 2 tourism 269-70 173-4 customs regulations 336-7 Port Mathurin (M) 167- tourist information 282 Jardins de la Compagnie disabilities, travellers 72, 170 travel seasons 180 (M) 49 with 338 Poste de Flacq (M) travel to/from 282-3 Le Jardin d’Eden (R) 202 129-30 economy 330 travel within 283 Le Jardin des Parfums et Praslin (S) 308-17, 310-11, electricity 337 Rivière des Remparts (R) 251 des Épices (R) 257 157 embassies 337 Praslin National Park Rivière Langevin (R) 253-4 Le Jardin du Roi (S) 301 food 284, 338 (S) 309 Rivière Noire (M) 91-6 Le Labyrinthe En Champ highlights 285, 285 public holidays Roches Noires (M) 129-30 Thé (R) 253 history 331-2 Mauritius 151 rock climbing, see also Sentier Botanique de internet access 337 Mare Longue (R) 257 Réunion 281 canyoning internet resources 337 Sir Seewoosagur Seychelles 338 Cilaos (R) 221 itineraries 24 Ramgoolam Botanical Rodrigues International Gardens (M) 15, Kitesurfing Festival 21 legal matters 337 81-2, 15 R Rodrigues (M) 10, 44, 166- LGBT travellers 337 rabies 344 Paul et Virginie 132, 137 79, 167, 168, 170, 10 maps 337 radio Pereybère (M) 77-80, 78 accommodation 166, money 337-8 Mauritius 149 philately 49 167-71, 175-7 opening hours 338 Réunion 281 activities 174-5 pink pigeons 113, 143, 11 politics 330 Seychelles 340 Piton de la Fournaise (R) events 175 public holidays 338 rafting, see also white- 10, 40, 232, 236-8, , festivals 175 tourist information 338 237 water rafting 10, 40 food 166, 171, 177-8 travel seasons 284 St-Benoît (R) 265 Piton des Neiges (R) 217 highlights 167, 167 travel to/from 339 religion Plaine-des-Cafres (R) 233-6 history 179 travel within 339-40 Mauritius 136 Plaine-des-Palmistes (R) local cuisine 171 volunteering 339 Réunion 272-3 238-9 shopping 172 shark attacks 197, 269, Seychelles 333 sights 167 281, 345 sharks 14, 142, 297 358 shrines Ste-Rose (R) 267-9 trekking, see hiking Bassin La Mer (R) 264 Laval, Père Jacques- Ste-Suzanne (R) 260-2 Trou aux Biches (M) Bassin La Paix (R) 264 Désiré (M) 53 submarines 64-9, 67 Cascade de la Grande Shrine of Marie Reine de Blue Safari Submarine Trou d’Eau Douce (M) Ravine (R) 253-4 la Paix (M) 49 (M) 65-6 123-6 Cascade Délices (R) 260 St Expédit (R) 273 Sucrerie du Gol (R) 213 TV Cascade du Voile de la

INDEX INDEX Silhouette (S) 164, 327-8, surfing Mauritius 149 Mariée (R) 226-7 328 Le Morne Peninsula Réunion 281 Cascade Niagara (R) 261 Sino-Mauritians 135 (M) 104 Seychelles 340 Chamarel (M) 14, 96, 14

S-Z Sir Seewoosagur Mauritius 148 Ravin (M) 59  Ramgoolam Botanical St-Leu (R) 208 Rochester Falls (M) 118 Gardens (M) 81-2 U  swimming Tamarin Falls (M) 101wa- slavery 103, 131-32, 271 underwater activities 159, Réunion 266, 281 tersports smoking see also individual Seychelles 293 activities Belle Mare (M) 127 Mauritius 149 Unesco World Heritage Trou aux Biches (M) 66 Réunion 281 Sites weather 16 Seychelles 340 T Aapravasi Ghat (M) 49 weights snorkelling 34, see tables d’hôte 61 Aldabra Atoll (S) 329 Mauritius 149 also diving Takamaka Bay (S) 301 Le Morne Brabant Réunion 281 Beau Vallon (S) 295 Tamarin (M) 91-6 Réunion (M) 103 Seychelles 340 La Digue (S) 321-2 taxis Réunion 277 West Coast (S) 304-7 Mahébourg (M) 108 Mauritius 156 Vallée de Mai (S) 14, Western Mauritius 83- Praslin (S) 309-10 Réunion 190 308-9, 14 105, 84 Victoria (S) 293 Seychelles 340 Western Réunion 190- Souillac (M) 117-19 tea factories & plantations 215, 192 V Southeastern Mauritius 300, 302 whale sharks 297, 14, 31, vaccinations 342 105-17, 106-7 Teemeedee 21 34, 14 Vallée de Mai (S) 14, Southern Mauritius 117-21 telephone services 16 white-water rafting 159, 308-9, 14 Southern Réunion 247-59, Mauritius 152 158 vanilla 263, 264 248 Réunion 281-2 Réunion 265 spas Seychelles 338 vegetarian & vegan travellers wildlife 18, 31, see also Belle Mare (M) 127 Telfair’s skinks 113 individual species Mauritius 140 Grand Baie (M) 71 Terres de 7 Couleurs Mauritius 113, 141-3 Réunion 275 Pereybère (M) 78 (M) 96 Réunion 276 Seychelles 334 St Expédit (R) 273 theft 151 Seychelles 335 Veuve Reserve (S) 319 stamps 49 theme parks, see windsurfing 147 Victoria (S) 286-91, 292 St-André (R) 262-3 amusement parks Le Morne Peninsula stand-up paddle boarding time Vieux Grand Port (M) (M) 104 116-17 La Saline-les-Bains Mauritius 152 wine 224, 275, 334 villas (R) 205 Seychelles 338 women travellers Belle Mare (M) 128 St-Benoît (R) 264-6 tipping Mauritius 153 Grand Baie (M) 71 St-Denis (R) 13, 182-90, Mauritius 150-1 Réunion 282 Poste de Flacq (M) 129 184-5, 13 Réunion 281 Seychelles 339 St-Gilles-les-Bains (R) Seychelles 338 Vincendo (R) 254-5 197-202, 198 toilets visas 16 St-Joseph (R) 250-1 Mauritius 152 Mauritius 153 Y yacht cruises 146 St-Leu (R) 12, 207-10, Topize, Joseph 135 Réunion 282 yellow fever 344 207, 12 tortoises & turtles 31, 113 Seychelles 339 St-Louis (R) 213 Tour des Cirques (R) 41-2 volcanoes St-Paul (R) 191-4 tourism Piton de la Fournaise Z (R) 10, 40, 232, 236-8, St-Philippe (R) 257-8 Mauritius 131 ziplining 237, 10, 40 St-Pierre (R) 239-46, 240 Réunion 269-70 Rodrigues (M) 175 Piton des Neiges (R) 217 Ste Anne Marine National tours, see boat tours, cat- zoos Park (S) 293-4 amaran tours, driving Trou aux Cerfs (M) 60 Casela World of Ste-Anne (R) 266-7 tours, helicopter tours Adventures (M) 85-7 Stella Matutina (R) 211 tourist information W Croc Parc (R) 212 Mauritius 152 walking, see hiking La Vanille (M) 120 Réunion 282 water 345 Map Pages 000 Seychelles 338 waterfalls Photo Pages 000 traveller’s diarrhoea 344 Bassin Boeuf (R) 261 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 359

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Anthony Ham Mauritius, Rodrigues, Seychelles Anthony is an experienced travel and nature writer who has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet guide- books, including Madagascar, and Mauritius, Réunion & Seychelles and almost two dozen African countries. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about Africa, the Middle East, Spain and Scandinavia for newspapers and magazines around the world. His particular passions are wildlife, wild places and searching for remote corners of the earth. Find out more about him at www.anthonyham.com.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Réunion, Seychelles Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard has clocked up numerous trips to the and written extensively about Réunion and the Seychelles. Being a diving instructor, he was all too happy to check out the best dive sites in the region for this guide, before putting on his hiking shoes to explore the rugged Cirques in Réunion. In the Seychelles, he searched for the perfect beach, the best grilled fish, the most romantic spot and the best-value hotels. Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely Planet titles, both in French and in English.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 9th edition – Dec 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 215 8 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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