North Centre South Trilogy Volume I

Home , Almagor, Alon HaGalil, Amirim, Bar Yohai, Beit Oren, Dan River (Middle East)

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ה ן ל Trilogy Volume I ל ת North Centre South ן

Israel Government Tourist Ofﬁ ce United Kingdom and Ireland 020 7299 1100

א Photograph: Israel Tourism /Jostein Skevik /Jostein Skevik Photograph: Israel Tourism

Contents

The Hidden Gems Trilogy The Hidden Gems of Israel 7 Volume One The North of Israel, the Galilee 8 Israel Map: North 10 Carmel Mountains 13 Volume One of the Hidden Secluded Coves The Carmel Coast | Hilltop Villages | Gems Trilogy covers the Northern part of the Along the Crest | The Baron’s Legacy Zichron Ya’acov country (as shaded above) Haifa 21 showcasing experiences, places and people that are From Refineries to Gardens unique to the region. We Acre 25 invite you to explore the pages of Volume One and Knights & Merchants Old City of Acre discover an innovative approach to tourism in Galilee Coast 29 Israel. Volume Two and Purple Dye Rosh Hanikra Three covering Central and Southern Israel will be Jezreel Valley 33 published in early 2012. Pharaoh & Prophet Megiddo, Tabor | Mongol Spears The Harod Valley Sea of Galilee 39 The Last Stand Hattin & Tiberias | Evangelical Triangle | Published on behalf of the Israel misrepresentation or otherwise in Northern Shores | Baths of Aphrodite Hot Springs | Government Tourist Office, United relation to your reliance on this Kingdom and Ireland by ERETZ publication. Mary's Well Nazareth | Kibbutz Land Kinnrot Valley Magazine. Project managed for and The Hula Valley 51 on behalf of IGTO by Absolute Content, photographs, design Publishing Ltd. copyright © Eretz Ha-Tzvi 2011. All The Cornerstone Rosh Pina | The North Star | rights reserved to Eretz Ha-Tzvi Ltd. Concept and design: ERETZ Eretz Ha-Tzvi Inc., 5 Ma’avar Yabok The Jordan | The Rift Rim Naftali Range Magazine Street, Tel Aviv 67440, Israel. www. Green Mountains 59 Copy: Yadin Roman, Heidi Gleit eretz.com Copy Editor: Sophie Conn-Taylor All rights reserved, including Shabbat Bride Safed | Sages & Saints Miracle Makers | Designers: Einat Rogel, Rotem Leviad translation into other languages. No Perched Villages Pekei'n Beit Jann | Starkenberg Heroic Castles Photographers: Yadin Roman, Doron part of this publication may be Horowitz, Chen Haklai, Efrat Nakash, reproduced, stored in a retrieval Festivals and Pilgrimages 69 ERETZ Magazine Archive, Dita Kohl system, or transmitted in any form or October Press Olive Festival | Run along the Lake | Roman, Ya'acov Shkolnik, Jostein by any means, electronic, Skevik, Alberto Peral, Gilad BenAri mechanical, photocopying or Galilee Marathon | Alternative Theatre Acco Festival | otherwise, without the prior First Edition: November 2011 permission of ERETZ Ha-Tzvi Ltd. Haifa International Film Festival | Lag Ba’omer | The publishers, producers, and Ascent to Meron | Hula Bird Festival Winter Migrants The contents of this publication and writers of this guide disclaim any in particular any suggested holidays, responsibility for the conditions of Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee 82 tours or itineraries are subject to the places, routes, and sites To Love Bay and Beyond | Rabbi Yossi Hagalili’s change at any time and are for described herein or for the safety or general guidance only. IGTO, the security conditions in the area. Neighbourhood | Yiftah | Canyon to Goma Junction | Israel Ministry of Tourism, tour Visitors touring the area or following Keshet to Sharach operators and service providers will the routes described in this guide do not be responsible for any claims for so at their own risk. Index 92

Contents

The Hidden Gems of Israel

Israel is not a large country. You can drive from its northern border to its southern tip in less than 10 hours. From east to west, it will take you less than two hours. But this small territory contains an unimaginable wealth of natural landscapes and historical treasures as well as a rich cultural heritage. Forested mountains, fertile valleys, colourful deserts, and beautiful coastline are all within a one-day drive of each other. Archaeological sites dot the landscape, echoing famous names and momentous events in world history. The alphabet was invented in this land, as was agriculture, urban centres, cemeteries and private houses. This was the land where the concept of social justice was formulated and the existence of a Kingdom of Heaven revealed, together with prophecy and divine miracles. Divine manifestation has always been part of this land. Kings and prophets, warriors and saviours, holy men and wise sages have left their historical imprint in the valleys, deserts and mountains of this small country. Judaism and Christianity came into being in this land where God walked with humans. The variety of people is one of the ingredients that have made this land so fascinating. Hebrews and Philistines, Phoenicians, Christians, Muslim and Jewish sects, Romans, Arabs, Crusaders, Mongols and Turks have all inhabited this land. The modern people of Israel are made up of communities from over 120 different countries, each with its own culture and heritage. In addition to its treasure of world heritage, Israel offers outstanding travel opportunities for the discerning traveller. Enjoy its luxury hideaways for the perfect holiday; world-class wineries next door to boutique producers of olive oil and cheese; spas, resorts and retreats – to heal body and soul; year-round outdoor activities; culinary treasures; and spiritual experiences coupled with a vibrant Mediterranean cultural heritage of nightlife, festivals and events. This guide is about these hidden gems of Israel – ideas for the traveller seeking unique and rewarding experiences. We invite you to join us in exploring Israel: a journey of discovery to a unique and exciting destination.

Stas Misezhnikov Minister of Tourism

Israel Photograph: Scots Hotel Galilee: The North of Israel The Galilee is not a large region. A mere 100 kilometres separate its northern border — on the sources of the Jordan — from its southernmost boundary along the Jezreel Plain, the site of biblical Armageddon. Its eastern reaches, on the edge of the Golan plateau, lie only 70 kilometres from the Mediterranean Sea in the west. But these 7,000 square kilometres encompass amazingly beautiful and contrasting scenery: mountains and valleys, fertile plateaus and stark cliffs, and a glimmering seacoast. The Galilee is a region where it is possible to trace the long ascent of man from his early beginnings to what he has become today. Prehistoric skeletons found in the Galilee show that in this place, man developed the ability to speak. Here, too, man made the transition from hunter and gatherer to farmer — and the very first permanent villages were erected. Six thousand years ago, the Galilee was already bustling with human activity. The forests were cleared, and replaced with farms and villages. On the plains, cities sprung up. Some 3,500 years ago, Joshua and the Israelite tribes conquered the Galilee and settled there, side by side with the pagan indigenous population. The haunting mountains of the Galilee were the abode of Elijah, the greatest of all biblical prophets. Later on, the Galilee became the home of the elusive 'men of deeds' – Jewish healers and miracle workers. Jesus came from the Galilee, as did Peter, Andrew, John, and Bartholomew. The Galilee was the birthplace of Jewish mysticism. Shimon bar Yohai, the first Jewish mystic, lived in the Galilee in the second century CE. In the sixteenth century, Safed became the birthplace of Kabbalah. The charismatic Yitzhak Ashkenazi Luria, the 'Lion of Safed', drew hundreds of followers who flocked to Galilee to learn how to unravel the mystery of the Godhead. Why has the Galilee been the domain of mystical manifestations throughout history? Perhaps it has to do with the proximity of the people of the Galilee to nature. Perhaps it is the beauty: lake and snow, coastline and fertile valleys, green fields and mountain slopes. The Galilee is still a relatively unknown destination. But in the past few years its ancient towns have been preserved and quaint villages have opened their doors to visitors. It is a place to take in slowly, a place to sit in the shade of an ancient olive tree, bask in the sun on a quiet beach, or walk along a cobblestone lane still echoing with the footsteps of centuries. Its mystical atmosphere takes the visitor far away from the frenetic world we live in today, its Hidden Gems are waiting to be discovered. Decks, Tagist Ron Lef, Decks, Tagist Yoav Horowitz, Photographs: ERETZ/Doron Galilee

North Copyright: ERETZ Magazine

13 Carmel Mountains: God’s Vineyard Kohl Dita Margalit, Rony Photographs:

Zichron Ya’akov overlooking the vineyards overlooking the vineyards Ya’akov Zichron

Israel’s foremost wine-producing areas. areas. wine-producing foremost Israel’s from a seaside café, or drive through one of a seaside café, or drive through from sandy Mediterranean beaches, enjoy the sunset sandy Mediterranean beaches, enjoy start your Galilean journey. Spend time at the start your Galilean journey. of of the small Carmel valleys, this is the place to nineteenth-century homesteads of the farmers nineteenth-century homesteads of Caesarea, to the picturesque to the picturesque the waters of Caesarea, coast, where ancient mariners used to haunt coast, where From the secluded sea coves of the Carmel From

God’s Vineyard God’s Carmel Mountains: Carmel Mountains: (www.caesarea. Makura Ranch Makura

Tel.: (054) 433-0606, Tel.: [email protected] ❷ A horse ride along the beach at sunset is one of the most enriching ways to experience the scenery along the Carmel Coast. Carmel Coast Carmel . Follow this with a few hours this with a Follow . Habonim beach. A trail along A trail Habonim beach. Caesarea is a romantic option. Caesarea is a romantic option. Dor, without a at the beach of Dor, beach doubt the most beautiful or for a more secluded in Israel, northward continue experience, to ancient the coastline leads to the the For Phoenician city of Dor. the aqueduct beach more agile, at aqueduct runs along the The beach for two miles before turning inland to the Roman dam over If you continue Crocodile River. you along the beach to the north, will reach ancient Crocodopolis, standing guard over the mouth of last crocodile The this small river. a century ago, seen here was fowl but the thousands of water up for the missing wildlife. make Secluded Coves Secluded The King at Caesarea, Start the day on the urban masterpiece Herod’s your fill of Take Mediterranean. amphitheatre, theatre, the ancient and harbour in the hippodrome, archaeology park com) Caesarea Golf Club Caesarea

❶ golfer must keen The stop off for a quick round at the only golf recently course in Israel, Dye. redesigned by Pete (04) 617-4444, Tel.: www.caesarea.com

Glass Factory (04) 639-0950,

Janco-Dada Museum Janco-Dada Antiquity Museum

The

Active Suggestions Ein Hod Artists’ Village, (04) 984-2350. Tel.: ➌ place to be enlightened The about the Dada movement and the work of Marcel Janco. Kibbutz Nahsholim, Tel.: Built by Baron Rothschild to Built by Baron Rothschild to for his winery, bottles make the factory now houses artifacts found in the sea, bullion to from sunken guns. Napoleon’s Kibbutz Sedot Yam, (04) 636-4367 Tel.: ❷ ❶ Collection of artifacts from at Caesarea excavations hidden between the houses including Yam of Sedot a colonnaded garden overgrown with vines. Don't Miss www.mizgaga.com

14 Carmel Mountains: God’s Vineyard Caesarea Development Co. Development Caesarea

15 Carmel Mountains: God’s Vineyard Peral, Alberto Tourism Israel Horowitz, Doron Photographs: 20 km All Year Full Day Distance: Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Roman Theatre Caesarea Harbour Caesarea

After the National Park at After the National Park Caesarea closes for the the harbour day at 5pm, A line of opens for business. along the shore, restaurants shops and coffee houses, patrons little studios attract from near and far. Caesarea Harbour, Caesarea National Park ❷ Roman theatre ancient The serves as a venue for some of the most exciting July concerts in Israel. August are the main and performance months when singers the best of Israel's and musicians play here. Catch a performance by Golan and Eyal Artzi, Shlomo and captivated The others. participating audience is part of the reason to snatch up available. any tickets Late Night Late Night ❶ Agenda

❷ Gas Located at the Paz Station off the main this is an highway, excellent restaurant. Paz Gas Station Entrance Rabin Power Station Janco-Dada Janco-Dada

Caesarea port this Helena

Caesarea Port (057) 944-3013 Tel.: outstanding restaurant outstanding restaurant fish and offers meat, seafood dishes. Overlooking the beach at ❶ session of local beers. brewing and enjoy a tasting to find out more about beer at Art Bar, the local microbrewery, the local microbrewery, Art Bar, at village on your own. End the visit village on your own. the galleries, or stroll through the the galleries, Mechanical Music, take a tour of take Mechanical Music, Dining Out Check out the Nisco Museum of overview of the Dada movement. overview of the Dada movement. of Marcel Janco together with an of Marcel Janco Museum that exhibits the works galleries. Visit Visit the galleries. village home to many studios and village home to many studios Ein Hod, the artist’s the artist’s drive to Ein Hod, Finally, Haifa Bay and the Atlit to Beit Oren or nearby restaurants which serve nearby restaurants Hilltop Villages Hilltop Crest the Along sect that Druze is a religious Islam in the tenth splintered from beliefs and religious The century. and the are semi-secret practices is scattered in Druze community mountaintop villages throughout northern and Syria, Lebanon, of the community’s Two Israel. are most interesting villages Carmel, located on the crest of the overlooking is ’Isfiya mountains of Galilee. Haifa. only a few kilometres from road that Drive along the winding leads from road that the main Carmel take descends from the University of impressive ancient The Haifa. quarter in the centre of ’Isfiya traditional-style old, boasts several and a an olive press, buildings, The candle-making workshop. main street bazaar is filled village’s of colourful shops, with a variety and learn about To spicy ethnic foods. try staying authentic Druze culture,

prior

Haifa, Tel.: (04) 832-0648 Haifa, Tel.: Hai Bar Carmel Druze Heritage House Druze Heritage

300 metres south of the entrance to the University of ❷ centre is 1,500-acre This of dedicated to the revival indigenous the Carmel’s and taking steps wildlife, to reintroduce species that from the wild in vanished over a century ago. Israel Open on Saturdays only (or by for different times, Eighth Street, Daliyat el-Carmel, (04) 839-3242 Tel.: ❶ of the former home The British Christian Zionist Laurence Oliphant now houses an exhibit focusing on the life of the Druze community consisting of clothing, weapons, tools, and more. foods, Don't Miss arrangement for groups). arrangement

16 Carmel Mountains: God’s Vineyard 17 Carmel Mountains: God’s Vineyard Shkolnik Ya'acov Horowitz, Doron Photographs: were 30 km 4 hours Dec-May Distance: Travel Time: Travel Best Months:

Homo Sapiens Carmel Man Nahal Yagur

found, including a 100,000- found, Today year-old cemetery. it's a national park with a souvenir shop and sound- circular The and-light show. into the riverbed is a hike nice detour. Carmel Caves National Park Usfiya of Usfiya the centre From in marked follow the trail red to the village spring Continue on (Ein al Balad). into the canyon of the trail which will take Yagur, Nahal you through the natural a and dry waterfalls forest, beautiful canyon to Kibbutz sure that Make Yagur. to pick someone is waiting you up at the kibbutz if you back. to walk don't want ❷ A series of caves where some of the earliest remains of Carmel Hikes Carmel Hikes ❶ (Tel.: (05) (Tel.: Continue , where the prophet , Mukhraka monastery at Mukhraka Continue to the Carmelite a mecca for weekend shoppers. shoppers. a mecca for weekend sister village whose main street is Isfiya’s larger – ’Isfiya’s el-Carmel Daliyat dance performances. the Druze adventure by driving to to stories, and watch music and music and and watch to stories, and enjoy traditional foods, listen listen foods, and enjoy traditional at one of the Druze guesthouses at one of the Druze guesthouses Nesher. from the monastery to Nesher. the Ba’al. Return via scenic road the Ba’al. Elijah slaughtered the prophets of 2877-9686) Ramat Hanadiv Ramat Hanadiv Beit Daniel

), the beautiful ), Broshim St, Zichron ❷ a Daniel House was famous retreat for today the artists, beautiful garden is a venue for academic conferences. garden and nature park that is garden and nature park Baron the final resting place of and then Edmund de Rothschild, town of drive to the picturesque The two main Zichron Ya’acov. have streets of the old town centre been turned into a pedestrian mall and the nineteenth-century help evoke farmhouses along them the atmosphere of its early years. coffee shops, Quaint restaurants, and souvenir shops art galleries, Off the main line the two streets. of the old in the backyards street, are more art galleries farmsteads, along with artists’ studios and of the original Two workshops. buildings have been turned Beit Aaronson into museums: is dedicated to the history of the (Tel.: (04) 629-8111, www.ramat- (04) (Tel.: hanadiv.org.il The Baron’s Legacy Baron’s The Ya’acov Zichron to from Binyamina road The is replete with Ya’acov Zichron from with grapes wineries supplied of the surrounding the vineyards Visit Nadiv Valley.

Shuni Fortress

Tel.: (04) 638-9730 Tel.: ❶ Once a Roman this amphitheater, ancient fortress boasts a museums, several and also is restaurant, used as a concert venue.

Beit Aaronson Ohel Yaakov Synagogue Ohel Yaakov

Tel.: (04) 639-0120 (04) 639-0120 Tel.: and More Venues 40 Hameyasdim St, The home of Aaron home of The who led the NILI Aaronsohn, underground with his sister during the twilight of the has been Ottoman Empire, carefully Visitors preserved. can learn about the NILI and early life in Zichron Ya’acov’s years while perusing the personal possessions. family’s ➋ ❶ Established by Baron the Rothschild in 1886, in Synagogue Ya’akov Ohel is one of Ya’acov Zichron the best examples of the quaint nineteenth-century synagogues built in the Land of Israel. Don't Miss Corner of Hanadiv and Hameyasdim streets, 054-551-2197, Tel.: www.ohelyaakov.com

18 Carmel Mountains: God’s Vineyard 19 Carmel Mountains: God’s Vineyard Shkolnik Illana Horowitz, Doron Photographs:

Tel.: Tel.: , founded , 40 km Distance: Nov-June Half a Day Travel Time: Travel Tishbi Winery Winery Tishbi Best Months: by Michael Chamiletzki who in arrived in Zichron Ya’acov 1882 as Baron Rothschild’s developer. chief vineyard winery is owned today The Michael Tishbi, by Jonathan grandson, Chamiletzki’s the fourth and his children, are continuing generation, and also work the tradition in the winery. was founded in 1925 as was a perfume plant and later turned into a liqueur and distillery called Eliaz. brandy it became in 1996, Finally, the boutique winery it is not other winery The today. to miss is the (Tel.: (04) 638-0434/5, (Tel.: www.tishbi.com) Two additional wineries additional wineries Two should be added to the list of the wine connoisseur. Winery Binyamina ( (04) 638-8643, www. binyaminawines.com) More Wine More

2 Bistro de Carmel Bistro

. ❷ Set in a 120-year-old outhouse of the Zichron Fine dining with winery. a wiff of the old 19th century winery. 7 Derech Hayain, (04) 629-0977 Tel.:

Museum of the First Aliya ( Aliya Museum of the First

Cashtonio wine cellar

Winery St, Tel.: (04) 639-1788, Winery St, Tel.: 56 Hamesdim St, (04) 629-1244 Tel.: The wine celler in Zichron The is located in a 140-year- Wideold prison. Turkish selection of wines and romantic atmosphere. ❶ www.carmelwines.co.il) ( center that offers guided tours Ya’acov and includes a visitors’ Ya’acov the southern entrance to Zichron the southern entrance original 1889 winery still stands at been a center of viticulture. The The been a center of viticulture. founding in the 1880s, Zichron has founding in the 1880s, between 1882 and 1904. From its From between 1882 and 1904. who came to the Land of Israel who came to the Land of Israel focuses on the Jewish immigrants focuses on the Jewish immigrants Dining Out the NILI underground movement and NILI underground movement Hanadiv St, Tel.: (04) 629-4777) Hanadiv St, Tel.: Kibbutz Nahsholim Hotel Spa Resort Carmel Forest Dan Caesaria Ahuzat Zamarin Hotel

Hailed as the most beautiful spa in hidden in the acres of green Israel, this is the forestry of the Carmel, and beauty, place to find tranquility, relaxation. Carmel Forest, PO Box 90 000, Haifa, (04) 830-7888, Tel.: www.isrotelexclusivecollection.com ❹ Zamarin Mansion is located at the beginning of the bohemian 'Wine Route' pedestrian street in Zichron boasting rustic guest rooms Ya'acov, and candlelit spa treatments. (04) 639-7404, Tel.: www.zamarin-spa.co.il Ceasarea 30600, (03) 520-2552, Tel.: www.danhotels.com ❷ is situated Nahsholim Seaside Resort cradled on the exquisite Dor Beach, and small bays, natural by lagoons, islands. Hof Carmel 30815, (04) 639-9533, Tel.: www.nahsholim.co.il ❸ Overnight ❶ in the famous Roman Enjoy a concert overlooking the sea and amphitheatre break for a luxury Dan, return to the in the historical with coastal settings, city of Caesarea.

20 Carmel Mountains: God’s Vineyard

21 Haifa: Mountain and Sea Shkolnik Ya'acov Photographs: Bahai Gardens and luxurious hotels Bahai Gardens

famous on the southern edge of the bay to the world- on the southern edge of the bay to nestled high up on the slopes. sites worth seeing, from the broad beaches the broad sites worth seeing, from well as buses, make it easy to reach all the well as buses, make it easy to reach challenge, but cable cars and a subway, as challenge, but cable cars and a subway, climb the mountain slopes making driving a climb the mountain slopes making to San Francisco. The steep streets that to San Francisco. The steep streets Haifa is often compared Mountains, the city of Haifa is often compared Mediterranean coast to the top of the Carmel Mediterranean coast to the top of Extending from the blue bay of Haifa on the Extending from

Mountain and Sea Haifa: Haifa: and the Railway and the Railway 1872 Hashmura . , or learn about ,

15 Ben Gurion Blvd, (04) 855-1872 Tel.: ❷ rustic, A charming, set restaurant French in a restored German Colony mansion built in 1872. or the Dagon Grain or the Dagon Grain (Palmer Square,Tel.: (Palmer Square,Tel.: (1 Hativat Golani St, Tel.: (1 Hativat Golani St, Tel.: Haifa into a major hub at Haifa into a major hub at (04) 866-4221) (04) 856-4293) Then head outside for a stroll Then which through the German Colony, built in the early Templars the and stop for twentieth century, lunch in one of the many cafés, and pubs that now restaurants, inhabit the old stone buildings. the forms of transportation that the forms of transportation made the National Maritime Museum Museum (2 Tovim Street, Tel.: (04) Street, Tel.: (2 Tovim 865-4333), (198 Allenby Boulevard, Tel.: (04) 853-6652), From Refineries From to Gardens whose port city, industrial This leanings earned labourers’ political 'the Red City', Haifa the nickname unexpectedly fine is home to an museums. collection of and varied some Start by learning about of the industries that helped to the the city grow with a visit Edible Oil Industry Museum Israel Museum Hanamal 24

❶ A Tuscan-inspired set in the restaurant shadow of Haifa's port. Antique and rustic furnishings. 24 Hanamal St, (04) 862-8899 Tel.:

Haifa. Today Today popular Haifa. Hecht Museum Germany Colony Bahai Gardens

Dining Out www.mushecht.haifa.ac.il This museum houses Reuben This Hecht's personal art and archaeology collection plus an ancient ship that sank on to the Land of Israel its way 2,400 years ago. ➌ Established in 1869 by the Established in 1869 by the a Protestant sect Templars, the German from Germany, Colony now rests at the of heart and pubs cafés, restaurants, can be found here. www.ganbahai.org.il ❷ ❶ this world centre of The religion is located in a beautiful garden on the It slopes of the Carmel. comprises the shrines of and Bahá’u’lláh and the Báb, 19 gorgeous terraces. Don't Miss

22 Haifa: Mountain and Sea 23 Haifa: Mountain and Sea Horowitz Doron Kohl, Dita Shkolnik, Ya'acov Photographs: 20 km All Year 4 hours Distance: Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Haifa, has Haifa, Haifa Auditorium Syncopa Luna

❸ part crusader castle, Part is Luna modern nightclub, an exciting nightclub where young sybarites can drink at five bars or dance in three halls. separate 5 El Pasha, (04) 862-6264 Tel.: A lounge bar located in downtown injected some life back into the area with groove music and elegant interiors. 5 Khayat St, (05) 091-8889 Tel.: ❷ Haifa's largest concert hall, opera, presents symphony, Philharmonic, the Israel and many dance concerts, events. other cultural 138 Ha-Nassi Blvd, (04) 835-3555 Tel.: Late Night Tips ❶ Douzan

and ❹ with clocks, Decorated musical instruments, Fusion and antiques. food prepared by the owner's mother. 35 Ben Gurion Blvd, Tel.: (04) 852-5444 (www.technion.ac.il). (www.haifa.ac.il) Haifa Fattouch

38 Ben Gurion Blvd, Tel.: (04) 852-4930 A Arabic medieval house with an old- fashioned dining room and a Bedouin room with rugs and divans. ❸ of the campuses of the University up to the top of the Carmel to tour tours to visitors. Finally, continue Finally, tours to visitors. gardens, as well as to offer free gardens, the world to tend the shrines and of the religion come from around of the Bahai religion. Adherents of the Bahai religion. bay, to the international centre bay, soak up the dramatic views of the views of the soak up the dramatic Carmel, making sure to stop and making sure Carmel, Next make your way up the your way Next make Technology Technology the Technion-Institute of Israeli of Israeli Technion-Institute the Rothschild Mansion Villa Carmel Boutique HotelVilla The Colony Hotel Haifa Boutique Hotel Templars

1 Heinrich Heine St, Haifa, (04) 837-5777/8, Tel.: www.villacarmel.co.il German Colony, 36 Ben Gurion Blvd, German Colony, Haifa, (027) 7500-3110, Tel.: www.templers-haifa.com ❹ A boutique hotel and spa originally most luxurious hotel built as Haifa’s road on a pastoral in the 1940s, It forest. surrounded by a private the hotel of choice for Haifa’s was first prime and Israel’s aristocracy David Ben Gurion. minister, ❷ located in A beautiful boutique hotel dating from period building Templar a has been preserved for which 1905, of the over 100 years in the heart German Colony. 28 Ben Gurion Blvd, German Colony, Haifa, (04) 851-3344, Tel.: www.colony-hotel.co.il ❸ Set in a building dating from 1872, the hotel's modern interior contrasts with its ancient exterior where meals are served at the famed Fattoush adjacent to the hotel. restaurant, Overnight ❶ built by Baron A stone mansion 1929 is now home to Rothschild in hotel located in a a rustic boutique setting. pastoral St, Haifa, 41 Southern Neve Shaanan, (05) 7231-0947, Tel.: www.rothschild-mansion.co.il

24 Haifa: Mountain and Sea

25 BenAri Tourism/Gilad Israel Photograph: Acre: The Crusaders' Last Stand

emporium from the Middle Ages. the Middle emporium from hear the bustle and voices of this major trade hear the bustle and voices of this and ancient caravanserais and you almost can and ancient caravanserais and you the sea walls. Walk down its alleys, markets, the sea walls. Walk of the old town is still intact, tucked behind of the old town is still intact, tucked and the new urban centres of the West. Much of the West. and the new urban centres beginning of the road to the riches of the East beginning of the road Crusader capital for a century. It was the Crusader capital for a century. d’Acre served as the the town of St Jean d’Acre bay, Set on a peninsula at the northern tip of Haifa Set on a peninsula at the northern

The Crusaders' Last Stand The Acre: Acre: 26 Knights & Merchants

Acre: The Crusaders' Last Stand Old City of Acre Start your tour at the Enchanted Garden (www.acre.org.il), once Don't Miss the courtyard of the Ottoman governor of Acre. Visit the Okashi ❶ The al-Jazzar Mosque Museum (Tel.: (04) 995-6710/1), Constructed in 1781, the and continue to the Turkish citadel mosque is built over the that was built over the Crusader- remains of a Crusader cathedral. The tombs of era castle of the Hospitallers – the al-Jazzar and his successor Knights of St John. In the early Suleiman Pasha are here. twentieth century, the citadel served as a prison and the cells ❷ Hummus in the Market and gallows can still be seen. Acre’s outdoor market is Underneath the citadel is the famous for the hummus served by small eateries. Crusader castle’s courtyard and Many consider Sa’id (Tel.: (04) the underground Crusader city, 991-3945) the best, but arrive including the Hospitaller Knights early to try a few local haunts dining hall. An underground escape and decide for yourself. tunnel leads through the ancient ➌ The Knights Hall sewers to the covered market This elegant hall with street. Exit the bazaar and enter high vaulted ceilings and the Hamam al-Basha bathhouse. ornamented columns served Make your way through the alleys as the ceremonial hall of of the Old City to Genoa Square in the Hospitaller Knights. The what was once the centre of the palaces of Acre’s Ottoman rulers were built on top of Genoese Quarter. The Bahá’u’lláh, it in the seventeenth and founder of the Bahai faith, was eighteenth century. imprisoned nearby in Aboud Active Suggestions

❶ The Ramparts Walk ❷ Bahai Gardens A significant portion of The Bahai Gardens in Acre, the walls of Acre which are equally as impressive were built between 1750 as their Haifa counterpart. and 1840, still are intact. They surround the mansion To get a real feel for in which Bahá’u’lláh spent the ancient city, take a his final years and his tomb. ramble along the walls. (www.ganbahai.org.il/en) 27 Acre: The Crusaders' Last Stand Horowitz Doron Photographs: 10 km All Year 4 hours Distance: Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Khan el-Umdan Templar Tunnel Templar

During the second half of the 12th century the knights began Order Templar of the building an escape tunnel from their fortress to the of 350 a distance city port, tunnel was The metres. discovered in 1994 and opened to the public was with in September 1999, access along a wooden walkway. ❷ A large inn near the port. Merchants unloaded their goods on the first floor and stayed in the rooms of the khan was The second floor. built in the late 18th century A large by Ahmed al-Jazzar. clock tower stands Turkish to the khan, at the entrance adorned with the emblem of sultan. the Turkish Travel Tips Tips Travel ❶ Haifa bay whilst Abu Christo

❷ Enjoy the shaded sea and the view terrace across tucking into a Greek- style meal. Lighthouse, Acre, Nr. (04) 991-0065 Tel.: Acre who

el-Umdan caravansary. Exit to el-Umdan caravansary. Uri Buri

Acre. the Turkish governor of Turkish the Bahai Gardens at the outskirts of al-Jazzar Mosque, where Mosque, the al-Jazzar Visit Finish your visit with a drive to the lot where you entered the Old City. lot where you entered the Old City. is buried. defeated Napoleon, Dining Out through the market to the parking through the market the fishing harbour and walk back the fishing harbour and walk the Pisan Harbour and continue on to there, follow the promenade to the follow the promenade there, seawall to the lighthouse. From From to the lighthouse. seawall House. Walk along the western along the Walk House. 93 Haganah St., Acre (04) 955-2212 Tel.: Exceptional fresh fish and seafood restaurant Turkish in an old house facing the sea. necessary. Reservations ❶

Acre's Old City, boasts a Acre's Old City, Acre resting on an ancient Knight Youth Hostel & Guest House Hostel & Guest Youth Knight Pinhas and Gaston Guest House Akkotel

➌ new youth hostel in the old Brand port city of from with artifacts archeological site, displayed in the lobby its excavation also the first It was and dining rooms. building built in the first 500 years of the Old City. Acre Old City, 1 Weitzman, (02) 594 5711, Tel.: Email: [email protected] rooftop terrace and restaurant with and restaurant rooftop terrace spectacular views. 1153 Salah-Al-Din St, Acre Old City, (04) 987-7100, Tel.: www.akkotel.com ❷ a view to with South of Nahariya, this intimate boutique lays the sea, Offers hotel on Moshav Shavey Zion. breathtaking luxury suites, spacious, and wine and cigar cellar. spa, Moshav Shavey Zion, (04) 952-6000, Tel.: www.gaston.co.il Overnight ❶ boutique hotel set A charming 16-room against in a lovingly restored building of the walls

28 Acre: The Crusader’s Last Stand 29 Galilee Coast: The White Cliffs Challenge and Adventure Robert Photographs:

Acre to the northern border of Israel, rests of Israel, rests to the northern border Acre

a tightly sealed international border. by passing through these tunnels, which is today by passing through Turkey, all the way down to Alexandria, Egypt,Alexandria, all the way down to Turkey, on the Orient Express, journeyed from Istanbul, journeyed from on the Orient Express, bottom of the cliff. Once upon a time, travellersbottom of the cliff. Once upon a time, A manmade bridge and tunnel runs along the A ferocious waves eroding the soft rock for eons. the soft rock waves eroding ferocious car descends to the sea grottoes hollowed out by car descends to the sea grottoes the steep slopes while the world’s steepest cable steepest the steep slopes while the world’s cliffs of Rosh Hanikra. Rock hyraxes play on rocky beaches, culminating in the white chalk rocky From From fields anda beautiful coastal valley of fertile

The White The Cliffs Galilee Coast: Galilee Coast: Rosh Hanikra, Hazuk Halavan

Mitzpe 057-944-1424 Tel.: ❷ Enjoy the best of Moroccan and European cuisine at this lovely with arestaurant romantic atmosphere. Akhziv an independent Purple Dye Purple Hanikra Rosh a small PhoenicianAkhziv was rocky outcropharbour on a Its claim to sea. overlooking the sea the small white fame was the purple dye ofsnail from which During manufactured. was royalty a was it the Crusader period, it was later, Much fortified position. later fishing village, Arab a small War After the abandoned in 1948. Avivi settled Eli of Independence, empty houses and in the village’s declared took up Club Med later country. beach inresidence on the beautiful a national Finally, the southern part. which today is a created, park was beautiful landscaped park with a small bay and rocky pools to swim a promenade runs Further north, in. which reaches along the beach, tunnel through railway the blocked the white cliffs of Rosh Hanikra. down toCable cars are availiable Rosh Hanikra, From the grottoes. to Rainbow Cave, your way make taking the serpentine road that leads Adelina Restaurant

❶ Chef Rushdi Dakwar the most of local makes and seasonal ingredients at this gourmet restaurant. Kibbutz Kabri, (04) 952-3707 Tel.: Route 9993, near Montfort Castle Rainbow Cave

Dining Out ❷ Teutonic knights’ The stronghold sits in the middle of the forest overlooking the ruins The Galilee riverbeds. Crusader of this once-grand castle are a 30-minute walk from either the Goren park, on the northern bank of or from Mi’ilya Nahal Keziv, and Hilla. ❶ collapsed dramatic This cave on the top of the Sulam Range is the ultimate Western viewpoint of the Open all year round, Galilee. it is the place for rock path to the The climbing. cave is an easy 10-minute more agile also can The walk. follow the path that leads along the cliff and down to the riverbed or ascend to the cave. Don't Miss Kibbutz Adamit

30 Galilee Coast: The White Cliffs 31 Galilee Coast: The White Cliffs Rogel Einat Horowitz, Doron Photographs: Akhziv 60 km 4 hours Distance: Nov-May Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Rosh Hanikra Akhziv National Park Akhziv National Akhziv also boasts rock

Route 4, Tel.: 073-2710100, Route 4, Tel.: www.roshhanikra.com This wonderful park among wonderful This the old houses of the village of pools along the beach for An official national swimming. park and campground, a snack bar, has lifeguards, and showers, bathrooms, other facilities as well as an fee. entrance (04) 982-3263 Route 4, Tel.: www.parks.org.il ❷ A host of tourism attractions has sprouted up around the sea grottoes in the white northern cliffs on Israel’s from the scenic border, rides on the cable car and to several the small train and the sound- restaurants and-light show. Active Suggestions ❶ Morganfeld

❹ steakhouse This specialises in roasting the Try meat over coals. beef entrecote steak, or asado. filet, Moshav Liman (04) 952-4333 Tel.: Etsusha

43 Hagfen St, Moshav Liman, (04) 982-1250 Tel.: Country-style delicacies, Country-style delicacies, served by a fireplace in winter and a green in summer. courtyard ❸ Montfort Castle lookout point. Montfort Castle lookout Forest- castle can be viewed from the Elon deer. To the north of the riverbed, the the north of the riverbed, To deer. Madonna lilies or even a stray roeMadonna lilies or even a stray right season, you will see the grand right season, If you are lucky and visit during the through Mediterranean woodland. woodland. through Mediterranean the Nahal Keziv riverbed, which runs riverbed, the Nahal Keziv the Holy Land. The castle overlooks The the Holy Land. renamed Starkenberg before they left renamed Starkenberg the Teutonic knights fortified and Teutonic the Montfort Castle, which plain or to Montfort Castle, an afternoon view of the coastalan afternoon view of the to the top of the Sulam Range, for to the top of the Sulam Range,

Berachta Haruach HaGalil Etzel Ayali B'Vadi

Moshav Klil, Western Galilee, Moshav Klil, Western (05) 0379-4661, Tel.: www.eyali.co.il ❸ deluxe suites in complete seclusion Two next to a stream, forest, in a natural surrounded by enchanting plants and flowers. Galilee, Shomra, Western (05) 4452-5286 Tel.: ❶ Luxury villas in unique resort located by established a decade ago, offers an action-packed the Kziv River, a with break for all the family to enjoy, tours. and bike go-carting, waterpark, horse riding opportunities also There's in the mountain ranges. Goren, (04) 980 6951/9, Tel.: www.adis.co.il ❷ Go on an adventure through the dirt of Klil to reach one of its two tracks built on romantic mountain cabins, the like where guests will feel stilts, only two people on earth. Overnight

32 Galilee Coast: The White Cliffs

33 Horowitz Doron Photographs: Jezreel Valley: Armageddon

every direction and surrounded by mountains. and surrounded every direction is a large valley of fertile fields stretching in valley of fertile fields stretching is a large battle of Gog and Magog. Apart from that, this Apart from battle of Gog and Magog. apocalypse will easily fit in during the final apocalypse will easily fit in during the tanks of World War I. The horsemen of the War the tanks of World Mongols, the troops of Napoleon, and even Mongols, the troops the armour of the Crusaders, the horses of the the armour of the Crusaders, the horses the chariots of Israel, Assyria, and Babylonia, Assyria, and Babylonia, the chariots of Israel, Jezreel Valley has since seen Valley 1493 BCE. The Jezreel that tried to bar his way across the valley in that tried to bar his way across III beat a coalition of the kings of Canaan III beat a coalition of the kings of time and again, ever since Pharaoh Thutmose time and again, ever since Pharaoh War chariots have raced through this valley this raced through chariots have War

Armageddon Jezreel Valley: Jezreel Valley: Tabor. Tabor. Tabor Pundak Hajachnun

Bethlehem Hagelilit, (04) 983-2095, Tel.: www.gnm21.com/ jachnun ❷ serve Yellin Livia and Yoel cuisine in a Yemenite Templar house. renovated . Sure, this is an ancient site this is an ancient site Sure, . with lots of difficult-to-understand with lots of that they but considering ruins, are the remains of 22 cities a built one on top of the other, while little respect is called for The through the ruins. wandering highlight for non-archaeologists for system; is the ancient water it is probably archaeology buffs, and stables, the ancient the gates, your way make Next, the temples. to Mount through the valley mountain this thumb-like some, For floor is sticking out of the valley Transfiguration the Mount of the it is the site for others, of Jesus; sat where the prophetess Deborah under the palm tree and judged the view In any case, over Israel. from the top is worth the climb. In addition to the magnificent the mountaintop boasts two view, Catholic and Greek monasteries: Pharaoh & Prophet & Pharaoh Megiddo, tour with Valley Start your Jezreel Park a visit to Megiddo National www.parks. (04) 659-0316, (Tel.: org.il) Meshek Zak

❶ Pick your fill of berries – from white mulberries to black- to raspberries home berries – to take from the fields. Moshav Sede Ya’acov, (04) 983-2539 Tel.:

John Deere Land Deere John Megiddo Water Megiddo Water System

Culinary Delights Kfar Tavor, Tel.: (04) 677-2560 Tel.: ❷ developed Simchoni’s Yossi his lifelong fascination with into a museum with tractors a collection of old John Deere and equipment, tractors all lovingly restored to among other working order, attractions. ❶ of this water oldest part The system probably dates to the when days of King Solomon, walls a path between parallel led to the spring outside apparently Later, the city. a time, Ahab’s during King more complex system was including a constructed, 25-metre shaft and 70-metre to conceal in order tunnel, the spring and allow people without water to draw leaving the city walls. Don't Miss

34 Jezreel Valley: Armageddon 35 Jezreel Valley: Armageddon Roman Yadin Horowitz, Doron Photographs:

60 km 4 hours Distance: Nov-May Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Carmel Yevulim Spicy Way Spicy Way Farm Yiftah’el Winery Yiftah’el

Moshav Hayogev, (04) 989-1858 Tel.: ❸ farm Tzvika and Hadas Ofir’s vineyards, includes a winery, and a log cabin. beehives, Alon Hagalil, (04) 986-1466 Tel.: The organic herbs and spices organic herbs The that the Zithershpieler family sells around the globe come from the fields which the for overfamily has cultivated the fields and Tour 50 years. attend a cooking class. Bethlehem Hagelilit, (04) 953-3405, Tel.: www.spice-way.com ❷ the local a taste of For visit this farmer’s produce, to pick up fresh market grapes, sprouts, asparagus, and more. snow peas, olives, Travel Tips Tips Travel ❶ for Limousine

❷ whereA fine restaurant the meat comes from in Kfara cattle ranch a is also There Horesh. butcher shop here. Ramat Yishai, (04) 953-3173 Tel.: (Tel.: (04) (04) (Tel.:

Hakdera Shel Noga Hakdera

Moshav Beit She'arim, (04) 983-0730 Tel.: Hakdera Shel Noga isHakdera a surprising gourmet set in arestaurant rustic cabin in wooden, the middle of the valley. ❶

983-1643, www.parks.org.il) Dining Out She’arim National Park Orthodox. Next, head to Beit Next, Orthodox. Agency in the Jezreel Valley. guard over the lands of the Jewish poetic guardsman who once stood the statue of Alexander Zeid, the Alexander Zeid, the statue of far away, overlooking the valley, is overlooking the valley, far away, with inscriptions and carvings. Not with inscriptions and carvings. are crammed full of sarcophagi are crammed open to visitors, but those that are, but those that are, open to visitors, catacombs. Not all the caves are catacombs. in the 2000-year-old Jewish in the 2000-year-old a little underground exploration a little underground exploration . (Tel.: (04) (Tel.: Ein Yizrael

Jezreel Valley, has Jezreel Valley, Route 675 near Navot Junction ❷ A short hiking trail in blue leads marked to down Yizrael from Tel a beautiful Yizrael, Ein spot for a swim. to tour the ruins of (Tel.: (04) 653-2004), (04) (Tel.: Harod Valley Harod 658-7189) Next, make your way to the your way make Next, ancient synagogue at Kibbutz Hefzi-bah a momentous history. The Harod The history. a momentous Gideon mustered is where Valley King Saul fell on his his troops, that stopped and the battle sword, fought. the Mongol hordes was also has more than a valley This appeal few hidden gems that will Start at to the discerning traveller. Art at Ein Harod the Museum of 648-5701, (04) (Tel.: www.museumeinharod.org.il) fifth- with its modernist-looking, century mosaic floor depicting a zodiac replete biblical scenes, and Helios with human figures, Apollo riding a chariot across or sure to visit the Make the skies. garden while Japanese kibbutz’s drive to Beit Next, you are there. She’an National Park Mongol Spears Mongol The offshoot of the an valley, little This better-known Scythopolis, the famous capital Scythopolis, Tel Yizrael Tel

❶ might not be There much left of King second capital, Ahab’s from which he ruled but with Queen Jezebel, the viewpoint over the is great. Valley Harod

Ein Harod, Merhavia, Merhavia Gan Hashlosha Beit Shturman

Tel.: (04) 648-6328 Tel.: Kibbutz Active Suggestions Kibbutz Take a stroll around Kibbutz a stroll Take checking out Merhavia, the original buildings of one of the first agricultural communes in Israel. (04) 659-8882 Tel.: Route 669 near Beit She’an, (04) 648-8097 Tel.: ➌ Bring a bathing suit so that Bring a bathing suit so that a swim in the you can take and streams pools, springs, of the Harod River. ❷ ❶ nature old-fashioned This educates, museum amuses, and horrifies with its various and fossils, specimens, including a stuffed animals, two-headed creature. Don't Miss

36 Jezreel Valley: Armageddon 37 Jezreel Valley: Armageddon Horowitz Doron Photographs: (Tel.: (04) (Tel.: (Tel.: (04) (Tel.: , not only , 60 km 4 hours Distance: Nov-May Travel Time: Travel Best Months: , the excellent , to check out the (Kokhav Hayarden) Gesher Belvoir

675-2237) because of the fascinating bridge history of the railway but over the River Jordan, also for Rotenberg restaurant located next to restaurant this historic site in one of the outhouses of the old British police fort. view from this commanding view from this commanding Crusader fortress overlooking the Jordan and the mountains Valley of Moab. Move on to slightly more at modern times by stopping Belvoir ❷ End the tour with a visit to the old British police station at Kibbutz Gesher Travel Tips Tips Travel ❶ National Park (Tel.: (04) National Park (Tel.: 658-1766) 675-2685/3336) Kimmel Bagilboa

(Tel.: (Tel.: ❷ At the foot of Mount this elegant Gilboa, offers restaurant outstanding views and locally sourced produce. (04) 689-5566 or Tel.: 057-944-4104 (Tel.: (04) (Tel.: Kokhav ), not only because ), to check out the (Tel.: (04) 675-2237). (Tel.: ) National Park ) National Park

Bikels CaféBikels

Museum of Art Ein Harod, (04) 648-5701 Tel.: The coffee house at the The art museum is set in a beautiful garden and serves amazing cakes. ❶ police station at Gesher tour with a visit to the old British the mountains of Moab. End the the mountains of Moab. overlooking the Jordan Valley and Valley overlooking the Jordan view from the Crusader fortress

675-2685/3336 Dining Out by stopping at Belvoir ( to slightly more modern times to slightly more modern of the Greek Decapolis. Move on of the Greek Decapolis. (04) 658-1766) Hayarden restaurant restaurant also for the excellent Rotenberg of its fascinating history, but of its fascinating history, Ein

a kibbutz experience to Ein Harod (Ihud), offers

Neve Hagar Ein Harod Country Guest House Ein Harod Spa Magic Touch

Bethlehem Hagelilit, (04) 953-1159, Tel.: www.kesemhamaga.co.il ❸ stone Templar Set in an original building in the village where guests can enjoy its rich historical heritage and explore the myths tying the village to Nazareth and Bethlehem. Bethlehem Hagelilit, (04) 953-3353, Tel.: www.nevehagar.co.il ❶ Surrounded by the Harod Valley, Harod cabins, with luxury rustic remember, of alternative a variety stunning views, and Bickels two museums, treatments, café. Kibbutz (04) 648-6083 Tel.: www.ein-harod.co.il ❷ horse stables and former These cow barns in the Medan family rear have been converted into a courtyard homely and welcoming health spa and guesthouse. Overnight

38 Jezreel Valley: Armageddon 39 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds Skevik Tourism/Jostein Israel Horowitz, Doron Photographs: feet below sea level, it

Sea of Galilee is actually a small lake. Sea of Galilee is actually a small feet. Situated 702

towns on the northern shores. towns on the northern shores. 141 in the villages and Christian Gospels occurred wide, and has a maximum depth of around around wide, and has a maximum depth of and most of the events of the been found here it is oval in shape, 13 miles long, eight miles it is oval in shape, 13 miles long, human settlements have the earliest prehistoric Fed by the Jordan River and winter storms, Fed by the Jordan Some of momentous events in human history. The have witnessed some of the most Its shores world’s second-lowest lake, after the Dead Sea. second-lowest lake, after the world’s Gospel Winds lake and the lowest freshwater is the world’s Sea of Galilee: Sea of Galilee: Tiberias is lined Tiberias Tiberias Donna Gracia Street Donna Gracia

❷ street running from The the shore up to the citadel of with buildings of historic and archaeological from the Sraya interest, to the Scots Hotel. The Last Stand The & Hattin that brought about events The Crusader kingdom the end of the debate in countless are still under But all agree scholarly texts. hinged on the that everything battle between the dramatic armies Crusader armies and the It was of Saladin on 4 July 1187. rout a bloody battle and a total from all for the knights gathered was battle The over the kingdom. Horns of the fought on one hill, with an extinct volcano Hattin, A short peaks. two small horn-like end hiking path leads from the as does of the road to the top, that runs into the a jeep track top The volcano. of the crater offers a magnificent view of the mountains of Galilee and the lake. next stop is at the bottom of The the northern slope: the volcano’s one Nebi Shueib, of Jethro, grave of the holiest Druze shrines and a pilgrimage site for thousands. of Hittin is Vale Across the small and Nature Arbel National Park the Archaeological Park Archaeological

❶ Check out the remains of Roman and Byzantine a including Tiberias, a mosaic synagogue, and sarcophagi, floor, basalt doors that used to belong to burial caves. Tiberias St Peter's Church, Church, St Peter's Winter Lupines Winter

Travel Tips Travel ❷ bloom by the lupines The thousands around Mount some For in winter. Tabor the stop on good photo ops, Afula to Kfar main road from just before the turnoff Tavor, There are to the Tavor. lupines galore on the right a better For side of the road. drive to Kfar Kisch view, down to the basalt and hike The canyon of Nahal Tavor. hills are carpeted with this beautiful flower. ❶ to church dedicated This just off the is Saint Peter and promenade lakefront built in the eleventh was century and refurbished by in the eighteenth Franciscans Don’t miss the century. in a mosaic depicting Peter boat on the Sea of Galilee. Don't Miss

40 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds 41 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds Decks Skolnik, Ya'acov Horowitz, Doron Photographs:

60 km 4 hours Distance: Nov-May Travel Time: Travel Tiberias. His Tiberias. Best Months: Meir the Miracle Maker Meir the Miracle Grave of Rabbi Akiva of Rabbi Grave Maimonides (Rambam)

❸ Rabbi Meir is buried near to the the southern entrance city and two synagogues academy have Torah and a been built around his tomb. thousands site draws The especially on the of people, memorial day of Rabbi Meir. According to Jewish this great sage, tradition, who died in Egypt in 1206, buried in was to transported body was by camel. Tiberias ❷ is buried in a Akiva Rabbi The cave above the city. site overlooking the dramatic many supplicants, city draws tomb of The day and night. is Rachel, wife, Akiva’s Rabbi believed to be near the old cemetery of the city. Graves of Saints Graves ❶ Abu Salah

❷ Renowned hummus and that meat restaurant will give you a true feel for Middle Eastern food, with an exquisite vista. Amiad Junction, (04) 680-1356 Tel.: Tiberias, Tiberias, . The The mountain . (Near Moshav Arbel,

Decks

Gdud Barak St, Tiberias (04) 672-1538 Tel.: Set on a long deck jutting out over the Sea Decks serves of Galilee, of barbecued a plethora and fish. poultry, meats, ❶ Dining Out Reserve Tel.: (04) 673-2904) (04) Tel.: Now drive to the city of Jewish sages. of many graves around back to the top of the cliff. around back to the top of the cliff. whose notable sites include the the cliff to the fortress and loops century. A hiking path leads down century. days of Rome until the eighteenth robbers, and brigands from the robbers, four-storey fortress, home of rebels, home of rebels, fortress, four-storey the lake. Hewn into the cliff is a the lake. straight down to the shores of down straight is actually a massive cliff that falls is actually a massive cliff 42 Evangelical Triangle

Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds Northern Shores One of the major pilgrimage sites in the Christian world, this Don't Miss is where many of the events recounted in the Gospels took ❶ Church of the Apostles place. Start the tour with an This small church dedicated overview from the Church of the to the seven apostles Beatitudes (Tel.: (04) 672-6712), was built in 1931 at the site where the village of one of the traditional sites of the Capernaum relocated to Sermon on the Mount. Drive or after an earthquake in the walk down to the little shore vale year 746. Even though this of Tabgha, ancient Heptapegon is not the Capernaum of (the Valley of the Seven Springs). Jesus, this beautiful tranquil The Church of the Multiplication spot is worth a visit. of the Loaves and Fishes (Tel.: Tel.: (04) 672-2282 (04) 6700-180), with a beautiful ❷ Domus Galilaeae Byzantine mosaic floor, marks the This centre was built in major miracle attributed to this response to Pope Paul VI’s site. Around the corner, on the desire to create a place lake, is the Church of the Primacy where seminarians and presbyters could study and of Peter (Tel.: (04) 672-0516), reflect upon the scriptures which marks the site of Jesus’ last in the surroundings in appearance on the lake. A four- which they were created. kilometer walkway runs parallel to In addition to modern the shore road to Capernaum (Tel.: conference facilities, there is (04) 672-1059), the town where a church, chapel, and library. Tel.: (04) 680-9100, Jesus lived during his ministry www.domusgalilaeae.org on the lake. Most of the ancient Culinary Delights

❶ Levona Grove ❷ Marinado Restaurant Call in advance to This store and arrange a tour of this restaurant specializes grove of over 100 in lamb and veal raised species of trees from nearby. It also sells around the world. cheeses and wines. Moshav Almagor, Kibbutz Ein Gev, Tel.: 052-538-5757 Tel: (04) 665-8555 43 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds Roman Yadin Lef, Yoav Photographs: 60 km All Year 4 hours Distance: Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Capernaum Pilgrim’s House Pilgrim’s

Tel.: (04) 672-1059 Originally established by ofAssociation the German the Holy Land in 1889 as the an educational centre, confiscated afterproperty was In of Independence. War the returned it was the 1990s, which to the association, and expanded it torenovated create a modern guesthouse for pilgrims. (04) 670-0100 Tel.: ❷ Now a national park jointly by the Franciscan operated NatureChurch and the Israel the Authority, and Parks and synagogue, churches, houses of the first-century fishing village of Capernaum will appeal to archaeology and history buffs as well as to pilgrims and nature lovers. Travel Tips Tips Travel ➌

Beatitudes Walk

to end ❷ Short downhill walk. Start at Church of the Beatitudes and walk Tabga. down hill to Great views of the Sea of Galilee along this 40 minute walk. (Tel.: (04) (Tel.: Almagor to (Tel.: (04) 693-5785, (Tel.: The ancient site is one The Sea of Galilee Trail Sea of Galilee

Tiberias Tourist Office Tourist Tiberias The trail around the trail The shores of the Sea of Galilee is not complete But many sections yet. for are ready and make stroll. a great lake ❶ www.veredhagalil.com) 693-4982). Korazim National Park National Park Korazim Active Suggestions drive up the hill via rows of houses around it. Next, Next, rows of houses around it. been uncovered along with was discovered in 1904, has discovered in 1904, was but a massive synagogue, which but a massive synagogue, town has not been excavated, town has not been excavated, Vered Hagalil Vered the time of Jesus. Then drive to Then the time of Jesus. what a town looked like during like what a town looked of the best places to understand the day with American pancakes. the day with on on The Jesus Boat The Jesus

Tel.: (04) 665-9964, (04) Tel.: Kibbutz Ginosar, (04) 672-7700 Tel.: ❷ boat 2,000-year-old The discovered in the Sea of Galilee and restored in is an unusual operation on display to the public. (Tel.: (04) 672-5287) (04) (Tel.:

www.hamat-gader.com) Baths Baths Aphrodite of Springs Hot Syrian-African rift, Situated in the cleft in the face of the longest to Turkey from the Earth (running is also Sea of Galilee the Africa), hot springs that the site of many of the rise up from the depths are two most famous The Earth. Hamat Gader ( the western side. Both have been Both the western side. spots important health and beauty Jewish The since Roman times. sages used to frequent them, passing excusing themselves for Greek statues the many naked along the baths by remarking that they are only there for decoration. Start the tour at the Hamat probably the synagogue, Tiberias most beautiful ancient synagogue with its art, liberal Very in Israel. it shows a mosaic floor decorated figures with a zodiac with naked and a centrepiece of Helios riding his chariot of the sun across the eastern shores and Hamat Tiberias Yigal Allon Yigal Centre

❶ museum presents This unique the Galilee’s landscape and history with an audiovisual presentation. Kibbutz Ginosar, (04) 672-7700 Tel.: Kvutza Kinneret, Tmarim Plus The Crocodile Farm The Crocodile

Active Suggestions ❷ More than just a shop, Tmarim Plus is dedicated to dates – different types of dates grown in Israel are sold here along with date spread, date honey, and anything else date jam, imaginable made from the fruit of the trees growing around the Sea of Galilee. and wine, teas, spices, Herbs, other local products are also available. ❶ In addition to hot springs, and an a spa hotel, Hamat archaeology park, Gader is home to the largest crocodile farm in the are some There Middle East. 200 crocodiles of different including species species, Africa and South from America. Don't Miss Tel.: (04) 675-9678 Tel.:

44 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds 45 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds Horowitz Doron Photographs:

60 km All Year 4 hours Distance:

Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Yardenit, which has Yardenit, Bet Gabriel Yardenit

Tel.: (04) 675-1175, Tel.: www.betgabriel.co.il Pilgrims travel from every Pilgrims travel corner of the world to be baptized in the Jordan River. place to most popular The do so is a all the facilities needed for baptismal ceremony. Kibbutz Kinneret, (04) 675-9111, Tel.: www.yardenit.com ❷ and social cultural This centre on the shores of the which was Sea of Galilee, built by the Gabriel Sherover hosts art exhibits, Foundation, and performances. concerts, facilities include a large The outdoor amphitheatre as well both of which as a restaurant, offer a gorgeous view of the Sea of Galilee. Travel Tips Tips Travel ❶ Ktse Hanahal

❷ Chef Joseph (Zuzu) Hana serves authentic Jordanian, Lebanese, and Galilean cuisine in a sensational setting. Kibbutz Ginnosar, (04) 671-7776 Tel.: Yarmukh River. The sulfuric, sulfuric, The River. Yarmukh Roberg Restaurant Roberg

Moshav Livnim, (04) 671-5656 Tel.: Operated by a family Operated of chefs and bakers, Roberg Restaurant offers excellent home- style cuisine. ❶ waterfalls. run through a series of pools and or bathe in the hot waters that or bathe in the hot waters you can visit the excavated site you can visit the excavated curing skin ailments. Nowadays Nowadays curing skin ailments. on the site, including one used for on the site, complex of bathhouses was built complex of bathhouses was Dining Out centre from Ancient Rome, when a Ancient Rome, centre from have been used as a therapeutic have been used as a therapeutic 52-degrees-Celsius hot springs the located in a dramatic gorge of located in a dramatic the Hamat Gader hot springs the Hamat Gader hot springs the skies. From there drive to there From the skies.

Tishreen

56 Ha'Mayaan Street, (04) 608-4666 Tel.: ❷ 150 yearsApproximately this home has been old, into antransformed withelegant restaurant ambience. Mediterranean Mary's Well Mary's Nazareth to Nazareth at Start your visit Check out the Church Well. Mary’s and then make of Saint Gabriel of along the alleys your way The to the market. the Old City Basilica streets next to the grand Annunciation abound of the with souvenirs for the Christian into wander but once you pilgrim, from the the alleys further away yourself in a you will find church, market, genuine Middle Eastern of long- replete with practitioners such as spice choppers, lost trades and broom tinkers, meat mixers, find cobblers, will also You makers. hubbly bubbly joints, bakers, as well as eateries, little market and alley of a vegetable market Next make wedding-gown makers. the Basilica of the to your way which is decorated Annunciation, with hundreds of modern mosaics each of the Madonna and child, one made by a different Catholic community from around the world. bottom floor On the church’s Alreda

❶ and café setRestaurant in a stunning Ottoman mansion belongingera to the family of Galilean ruler Dahir al-Amr. 23 El-Bishara Street, (04) 608-4404 Tel.: Shababik Cactus Elbabour Galilee Mill Elbabour Galilee

Dining Out Street 6198, Old City, Street 6198, Old City, (04) 608-0747 Tel.: Shababik was the first Shababik was shop to re-open in the Old City's cobbled streets. store and art gallery is The located inside a beautifully building. renovated Mary's Sq, Well (04) 567-8539 Tel.: ❸ ❷ bathhouse ancient This gift shop has and crafts tale of a heartwarming the ruin's discovery by the shop's owners. El-Bishara St, (04) 645-5596, Tel.: www.elbabour.com ❶ and herb, grain, Every spice, tea imaginable is sure to be found in this 100-year-old brothers. run by two mill, Don't Miss

46 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds 47 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds Horowitz Doron Photographs:

60 km All Year 4 hours Distance: Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Sudfeh Misk Stage Bar Andarin

❸ Exquisite modern arts and dining space set in a stone for mansion with courtyard drinks and dining alfresco. Well Street 6089/35, Mary’s (04) 656-6611 Sq, Tel.: This trendy cocktail bar and trendy cocktail This opposite the Old restaurant a Muslim Cemetery attracts young and musical crowd. El-Bishara St (no number, look for a sign), (07) 7203-1811, Tel.: www.miskbar.com ❷ A lively bar and restaurant that prides itself on its Irish and spirits beer, whiskey, Sporting events selection. shown in the courtyard. Frank Sinatra Building, St 6026, (04) 601-3137 Tel.: Late Night Tips ❶ Diana

❹ Diana Set high on a hill, is renowned for its of appetizers. variety Street 5053/1, El Mutran neighborhood, (04) 657-2919, Tel.: www.diana-rest.com El Mejana

Mary's Square, Well (04) 602-1067, Tel.: www.el-mejana.rest-e. co.il Diners can experience Arabic authentic, dishes at this chef's restaurant. ❸ the Galilee mountains. the Galilee mountains. panoramic views of the city and panoramic Nazareth. Enjoy the hill above Nazareth. that runs along the crest of the city. Next drive to the promenade city. of other churches around the Saint Joseph, and in the basements Saint Joseph, church, in the adjacent Church of church, be seen in the basement of the the ancient village of Nazareth can Nazareth. Remains of church of Nazareth. floor serves as the Catholic parish floor serves as the Catholic Byzantine churches; the huge top the Byzantine churches; are the remains of Crusader and are the remains of Crusader (Tel.: (Tel.: Here a 1930s Deganya Bet. Make your Make Bet. Deganya , which houses the finds , for a tasting. Then head to Then for a tasting. (Tel.: 052-374-9102). (Tel.: from the nearby excavations from the nearby excavations Yarmukian where the prehistoric Difficult discovered. culture was From it is worth the effort. to find, reach the nearby Kibbutz here, (04) 675-5608, www.galita. co.il) stand most of the buildings that stand most still first kibbutz, made up the While in 1905. a fledgling idea, Gordon visit Beit at the kibbutz, collection of flora and fauna from collection of flora Bauhaus old quaint, The the area. collections building and the jarred are a throwback to a different A short drive leads you to era. Kibbutz today to the old cowshed, way the Galita Chocolate Farm (Tel.: (04) 667-7386, www.myc. (Tel.: org.il) (Tel.: (04) 675-0040), (04) (Tel.: Kibbutz Land Kibbutz Valley Kinnrot at the founders’ Start your tour of Kibbutz Deganya courtyard Alef Kibbutz Sha’ar Hagolan to visit Culture Yarmukian the Museum of born on the shores of Sea of Galilee in the Moshava Kinneret, (04) 675-9123 Tel.: the Its early twentieth century. founders were idealistic, young socialists who had to the Land immigrated from Eastern of Israel Europe in order to build Many of a new society. them went on to become and political, the cultural, social leaders of the State Some of the most of Israel. famous of these pioneers are buried in this cemetery on the Kinneret, at Moshava shores of the Sea of Galilee. among the graves Wander to see the final resting place of the poetess Rachel, songwriter Naomi Shemer, military commander Shaul and philosopher Berl Avigur, Katznelson. The kibbutz movement The was Kinneret Cemetery Kinneret

48 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds 49 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds Barda Tal Photographs: 60 km 4 hours Distance: Nov-May Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Ugata Café Café Rishonim Tzel Tamar Restaurant Tzel Tamar

❸ Best known for its cakes this vegetarian and desserts, and dairy café also serves from appetising entrees, pasta and salads to quiches. Kibbutz Kinneret, (04) 675-9687 Tel.: Located in the building that Located in the building that originally the kibbutz was café pioneer’s the cowshed, specialises in vegetarian and dairy cuisine. Kibbutz Deganyah Aleph, (04) 660-8273 Tel: ❷ A small ice cream and pizza parlour has grown into a with a varied restaurant families menu that attracts with young children. Kibbutz Ashdot Ya’acov Ihud, (04) 675-6688 Tel: Dining Out ❶ Ein (Tel.: (Tel.: Yarmukh River Yarmukh , which displays the displays which , Anchors Fishing Museum of Galilee, to visit the House of of Galilee, Gev, on the shores of the Sea Gev, station. Now drive to Kibbutz station. Naharayim power of the derelict Naharayim is surrounded by the outhouses massive winter waterfall, which massive winter waterfall, This is where the This flows into the Jordan River via a and the entrance to the 'island'. to the 'island'. and the entrance Naharayim railway bridge railway to the Naharayim Ashdot-Ya’akov and drive down Ashdot-Ya’akov (04) 665-8008) amazing collection of Mendel Nun. inner magical view of Tiberias around a beautiful lawns, and the lawns, Karei Deshe Guest House Deshe Guest Karei Fauzi Azar Fauzi Inn The Scots Hotel, The Scots Hotel, Vered HaGalil Vered

D.N. Hevel Korazim, 12365 (04) 672-0601, Tel.: www.iyha.org.il ❸ this Steeped in history and charm, luxurious hotel is set in 19th-century hidden which were stone buildings, by overgrown gardens and high away for over a century. walls 1 Gdud Barak St, Tiberias, (04) 671-0710, Tel.: www.scotshotels.co.il ❹ Karei On the bank of the Sea of Galilee, Deshe is built Vered HaGalil Guest Farm, South of Vered the Golan, (04) 693-57850 Tel.: www.veredhagalil.com ❷ mansion- Arab Set in a 200-year-old with original turned-guesthouse, a large living marble flooring, Turkish views of the area with panoramic featuring and a courtyard Old City, Within a Ottoman period arches. from the Old City minute's walk market. Box 2606, Nazareth, 16125, P.O. (04) 602-0469 Tel.: www.fauziazarinn.com surrounded by palm trees, courtyard green the lake. Overnight ❶ on a horse guest farm is located This Guests Galilee. in the hills of the ranch enjoy and cottages, can stay in cabins pick fruit from the orchards, trail-riding, rustic restaurant. and eat at the

50 Sea of Galilee: Gospel Winds

51 The Upper Lake: The Hula Valley Horowitz Doron Photographs:

Africa. seasonal migrations to and from Europe and Europe seasonal migrations to and from attracts millions of birds annually during their attracts millions of birds a small section of the original lake that a small section of the original lake and an area that was re-flooded to recreate to recreate that was re-flooded and an area with a small nature reserve of swampland reserve with a small nature Today the valley around it remains, together it remains, around the valley Today swamp were drained in the name of progress. drained in the name of progress. swamp were of conservation were different, the lake and the different, of conservation were still considered bad places and the principles still considered lake here. But in the 1950s, when swamps were But in the 1950s, when swamps were lake here. Originally there was a beautiful swamp and Originally there

The The Hula Valley The Upper Lake: Upper Lake: The

(Tel.: (04) (Tel.: Pub Gosh

Kibbutz Hagoshrim, Upper Galilee, (04) 695-6753 Tel.: ❷ picturesque This is set in a restaurant rustic wooden building on Mount Hermon. (Tel.: (04) 693-7069) (Tel.: . They both are prime sites They . 681-7137, www.agamon-hula. co.il) The Cornerstone The Pina Rosh village of Rosh Pina was little The by enthusiastic founded in 1882 from Romania. Jewish pioneers they were After 12 months, many of the pioneers bankrupt; others had died of malaria and Those up and left. had packed Baron who remained turned to who de Rothschild, Edmond James just stepped in and saved them, other as he had done in several remains The struggling villages. little village, of that quaint, with its nineteenth-century-style and the synagogue, houses, centre, administrative baron’s have become the nucleus of a tourism powerhouse with bed- rustic and-breakfast places galore, After shops. and craft restaurants, taking a stroll along the main drive to the Hula Nature street, Reserve and the Hula Agamon for bird watching (millions during for bird watching 04) 695-0225, Kiryat Shemona- ( Dag Al HaDan

❶ A charming fish set amid the restaurant Dan River's tributaries. Off Dan, Banias Rd, Tel Tel.: www.dagaldan.co.il www.dagaldan.co.il Seuda Began Eden Muscat Restaurant Pausa

Culinary Delights Mount Canaan, (04) 697-2434 Tel.: ➌ Located in an old stone this gourmet building, specialises in restaurant home-style cooking. Mizpe Hayamim, Rosh Pina, (04) 699-4555, Tel.: www.mizpe-hayamim.com Chef Haim Tibi serves Tibi Chef Haim up creative riffs on local Galilean cuisine using organic produce grown in the adjacent fields. ❷ Moshav She’ar Yashuv, 054-690-4434, Tel.: www.pausa-inn.co.il ❶ hotel and boutique This is surrounded by restaurant and an olive grove, gardens, whose bounty is a vineyard served on its tables. Dining Out

52 The Upper Lake: The Hula Valley 53 The Upper Lake: The Hula Valley Kohl Dita Photographs: 60 km 4 hours Distance: Nov-May Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Biriya Forest boasts a Forest Biriya Chocolata Bat Yaar Ranch Bat Yaar Nechalim

❸ this As its name implies, in a beautifully restaurant restored historic building specialises in chocolate. and the the pralines Try chocolate cocktails. Rosh Pina, (04) 686-0219 Tel.: A gourmet fusion restaurant A gourmet fusion restaurant on the shores of the Hatzbani River. Gan Hazafon, Alon gas station, (04) 690-4875, Tel.: www.eng.nechalim.com ❷ of in the heart ranch This the in a country-style restaurant log cabin. Mitzpe Amukah, (04) 692-17880, Tel.: www.batyaar.co.il Dining Out Dining Out ❶ Haruzula

❷ enchanting shop This offers a myriad of arts and crafts beads, and jewelry- materials, making equipment. Rosh Pina, (04) 693-0312 Tel.: Vision Gallery Vision

Rosh Pina, 054-472-2351 Tel.: Photographer Neil Photographer work is on Folberg’s display at the gallery and guesthouse he and his wife operate. ❶ dot the landscape. the little streams and ponds that to stop off on the way at some of to stop off on the way part of the Hula Valley. Make sure Make Valley. part of the Hula and farmland scenery to the upper River through some great nature valley, driving along the Jordan driving valley, Tips Travel take the eastern road along the take across the Jordan River and then Daughters of Jacob bridge to the Daughters of Jacob the original swamp. Drive down the original swamp. buffalos, otters, and other relics of otters, buffalos, as well as for observing water water as well as for observing the autumn and spring migrations) migrations) the autumn and spring

(Tel.: (Tel.: (Tel.: (Tel.: (Kibbutz (Tel.: (04) (04) (Tel.: at Kibbutz Singing Tour for a short hike to for a short hike

Tel.: 052-297-1119 Tel.: ❷ tour of a musical Take with one Valley the Hula of the many tour guides who also double as a such as Dr. song master, Itai Plaot. , which tells the story of which tells the story , Dan Springs, the major source the major Dan Springs, Tel Dan Nature Reserve Tel the remains of The of the Jordan River. hidden the biblical city of Dan are Then among the foliage here. visit the drive to Kibbutz Dan to Beit Ussishkin museum (04) 681-6702, www.iparks.co.il) 694-1704) are the next stop. Then visit the Then are the next stop. Beit Hashomer Museum (Tel.: (04) 695-4611) (Tel.: The North Star North The Jordan The River forms at the head Jordan The the merger from Valley of the Hula rivers and many of three major Start your tour at other streams. the (04) 695-1579) Ma’yan Baruch to see the world’s to see the world’s Baruch Ma’yan largest collection of prehistoric A collection of antique stone axes. museum cars and the photography Hai Industrial Park Tel at the Kfar Gil’adi, Tel.: (04) 694-1565) Kfar Gil’adi, Tel.: the valley and the rivers that make and the rivers that make the valley make here, From up the Jordan. to the prehistory museum your way Metulla, Israel’s Israel’s to Metulla, on your way Manara Cable Car Manara

Tel.: (04) 690-5830 Tel.: ❶ on the a ride Take longest cable car in and enjoy other Israel like exciting attractions massive slides down the mountain. Active Suggestions Tel.: (04) 694-0237 Tel.: The last of the founders’ The Beit houses in Metulla, Ha’ikar has been preserved in its original form exactly built in 1896. as it was reopened house was The in 1987 after renovation and it is meant to illustrate the pioneering spirit of the the and their lives, founders, hopes that they cherished in spite of the many hardships. can see furniture and You belongings used by the first settlers – kitchen utensils, and work farm implements, tools – as well as photos. are also documents There and maps that give you an agriculture, idea of security, and other matters education, One corner is at the time. devoted to the memory of An the fallen of Metulla. audiovisual presentation about the history of the site is shown by appointment. Don't Miss

54 The Upper Lake: The Hula Valley Photographs: Doron Horowitz Doron Photographs: 55 The Upper Lake: The Hula Valley 80 km All Year 4 hours Distance: Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Beit Shalom Doris

28 Harishonim St, Metulla, (04) 694-0767 Tel.: Surprisingly some of the best Surprisingly some of the best are next eateries in Israel to gas stations and Doris is restaurant The no exception. established alongside a premium butcher shop serves some of the best steaks and hamburgers in the country. Rosh Pina, (04) 680-1313 Tel.: ❷ Located in a century-old this restaurant stone house, tries to recreate the flavours rustic cuisine of the local, of the farmers who founded Make Metulla a century ago. sure to try the mushrooms cream, with goat cheese, and pecans or the lamb with sumac. kebabs Dining Out ❶ which Kfar Blum Kayaks

❹ Experience the Jordan River and the Hatzbani Stream in a whole new by navigating it in way: a kayak. Kibbutz Kfar Blum, 1-700-50-66-11 Tel.: (Tel.: (04) (Tel.: to see a ) winter only Top Rope Top

Tel.: (04) 695-0370, Tel.: Kibbutz Kfar Blum, 1-700-50-66-11 Tel.: This park for the This adventurous boasts a ropes course with 20 rope bridges to navigate and a 300-foot zip line. ❸ www.canada-centre.co.il), Stream Nature Reserve back, stop at the Iyon (Tanur) stop at the Iyon (Tanur) back, skating rink. Before heading skating rink. houses Israel’s only Olympic ice only houses Israel’s 695-1519, ( ordinary, go to the Canada Centre ordinary, hotels. For something out of the For hotels. filled with restaurants, shops, and shops, filled with restaurants, main street, but today they are but today main street, houses of this village still line the houses of this village still northernmost village. The quaint The northernmost village. quirky, slender waterfall. quirky,

Kadesh National Park Kadesh National Park

❷ Greek temple The here probably was The dedicated to Helios. ruins of Kadesh lie all including around you, decorated elaborately sarcophagi. (the Atlantic pistachio tree), Atlantic pistachio tree), (the ela The Rift Rim The Range Naftali by driving up fromStart this tour Gil’adi Shemona via Kfar Kiryat of at the top to Kibbutz Menara, If someone else drives the ridge. to meet to Menara your car up by the cable you can ascend you, Shemona instead. car from Kiryat at the top of the in the view Take and them drive southwards, range viewsenjoying the magnificent Mount of Lebanon, along the way and the Golan Heights, Hermon, Yiftah Junction, At the Hula Valley. Kadeshturn right and drive to the the path Follow National Park. Greekfrom the parking lot to the temple standing in the middle of Return in the direction the field. Just before the that you came from. turn left into the Ela picnic junction, centrepiece here is The grounds. the which is the largest and oldest (around 1,000 years) tree in Israel. turn right Junction, Yesha At the and follow the road through some scenery in of the best natural Rihaniya

Tel.: (04) 698-7940 Tel.: ❶ One of the two Circassian villages in visit its small Israel, museum which tells the story of this unique community. Ein Zeitim. In addition In Ein Zeitim. Dishon ATV Trips Dishon ATV Ein Zeitim

Active Suggestions Moshav Dishon, (04) 699-7758 Tel.: Biriya Forest ❷ ATV Learn how to drive an route and on the training then explore the fields and of the moshav vineyard or venture even further to explore the slopes of the Naftali Mountains. ❶ If the beauty of the Biriya head isn’t enough, Forest over to the Ein Zeitim which is recreation area, right next to the ruins of the Jewish community medieval of water to picnic facilities, and restrooms, fountains, the site boasts an active recreation area where all sorts of gym equipment can be enjoyed outdoors in the midst of the forest. Don't Miss

56 The Upper Lake: The Hula Valley Photographs: Doron Horowitz, Omer Shavit Omer Horowitz, Doron Photographs: 57 The Upper Lake: The Hula Valley 60 km 4 hours Distance: Nov-May Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Rimon Winery Galil Winery Mountain

Moshav Kerem Ben Zimra, (04) 682-2325, Tel.: www.rimonwinery.com Known for its dry red wines, Known for its dry red wines, the winery offers tours, and tastings workshops, The languages. in various seventh largest producer of it produces wine in Israel, one million bottles annually from its six with the grapes each with nearby vineyards, different climatic conditions. Kibbutz Yir’on, (04) 686-8740, Tel.: www.galilmountain.co.il ❷ Inspired by the many health benefits of pomegranates, this winery mainly produces and sparkling dessert, dry, wines as well as port from grown in the pomegranates orchards of the moshav. Wineries ❶ Keren Naftali Keren

❷ About half a kilometre south of Ramot Naftali turn onto on Route 886, that leads the dirt track hill up the horn-like with a spectacular view and ruins of a temple. is in order. is in order.

Agamon Lookout

Opposite the entrance Opposite the entrance to Ramot Naftali on follow the Route 886, sign to the lookout point with a view of the Agamon and the Hula Reserve. Nature Valley ❶ Scenic Views winery.com) where a stop at the Dalton Winery (04) 698-7683, www.dalton- (Tel.: Dalton plateau, further on is the Dalton plateau, Safed. A Safed. the Galilee toward little Galilee. one of the best lookout sites in the one of the best lookout young yeshiva students. It is also students. young yeshiva has become a pilgrimage site for The tomb of this Talmudic sage Talmudic tomb of this The of Rabbi Yossi Haglili. Haglili. Yossi of Rabbi and follow the signs to the Grave and follow the signs to the Grave Dalton (not on Saturday), village of Dalton (not on Saturday), Then continue south, enter the continue south, Then

Mitzpe HaYamim Resort Mitzpe HaYamim Naftaly Estate Boutique Hotel Villa Tehila Villa

❸ A family-run country inn situated in the mountainous village of 120-year-old Rosh Pina offers a cozy stay in an old stone farmhouse dating from 1882. even have their own petting zoo They and aviary for all the family to enjoy. Rosh Pina, 12000, (04) 693-77880, Tel.: www.villa-tehila.co.il ❶ this hotel break visit a tranquil For which and spa in the Eastern Galilee, land rests on 15 hectares of luscious and water pools, paths, with walking features. Rosh Pina, 12000, (04) 699-4555, Tel.: www.mizpe-hayamim.com ❷ hotel rests A luxury five-room boutique with grounds, on heavenly pastoral views of the Upper Galilee, panoramic and lakes. mountains, its vineyards, Moshav Ramot Naftali, (05) 4590-0919, Tel.: www.naftaly.co.il Overnight

58 The Upper Lake: The Hula Valley

59 Upper Galilee: Green Mountains Horowitz Doron Photographs:

organic mix. organic olive oil producer thrown in for just the right thrown olive oil producer food, with a winemaker, goatherd, farmer, and farmer, goatherd, food, with a winemaker, the quiet, natural scenery and local ethnic the quiet, natural scenery and local This is a place to take in with ease. Enjoy This is a place to take in with ease. rustic getaways, and mountaintop hideaways. rustic getaways, and mountaintop hidden gem. It boasts pilgrimage sites, spas, hidden gem. It boasts pilgrimage sites, Upper Galilee is a real Upper Galilee is a real the entire galore, communities, and orchards and vineyards and vineyards communities, and orchards tiny, hilltop villages home to a dozen different hilltop villages home to a dozen different tiny, A land of lush Mediterranean vegetation, A

Green Mountains Upper Galilee: (Tel.: (04) (Tel.: Tel.: (04) Tel.: Bat Ya’ar

❷ Apart from the view this Valley, of the Hula runs an forest ranch and excellent restaurant offers horse and jeep trips in the surrounding mountains. ), shows how life was in shows how life was ), Safed their home. Safed their home. Shabbat Bride Shabbat Safed was Jewish mysticism, Kabbalah, for But in Safed. not spawned spanned most of 80 years that Safed was century, the sixteenth Kabbalah got its the place where best mystical minds The boost. their of the Jewish world made to this hilltop town to try to way and understand the creation the Creator. impact of can still feel the You in the those eight decades today Wander through alleys of Safed. to the old the Old City and step in many of even though synagogues; sixteenth them were built after the they still emanate the century, spirit of the sages from Safed’s golden age. through the galleries walk Then and studios of the artists that have made a museum in the Beit Hameiri, Mekubbalim Quarter 697-1307 this town in past times. Meanwhile this town in past times. the Kadosh Dairy ( Ascent of Safed

Tel.: 057-315-6770 Tel.: ❶ Jewish sages forbid The the study of kabala before the age of 40, to get but if you want into some Kabalah Light, try Ascent. Safed artists’ quarter Travel Tips Travel The artists of the Land of The to have been attracted Israel After Safed since the 1920s. of Independence, War the the artists asked several mayor to allow them to settle in the abandoned houses of the Old City. Arab responded municipality The positively and the news among Israel’s spread rapidly blossoming of The artists. the reached its peak in the when over 50 1960s, In famous artists lived there. the 1970s the artists moved reminders of Today, away. the heyday of the Safed artists’ quarter still can be sculpted seen everywhere: paintings, statues, signs, on the walls figures drawn painted of the houses, and carved doors. windows, Some of the artists’ houses have been converted into museums. Artists’ Quarter

60 Upper Galilee: Green Mountains Photographs: Roni Roman, Dita Kohl Kohl Dita Roman, Roni Photographs: 61 Upper Galilee: Green Mountains 10 km All Year 4 hours Distance: Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Grave of Pinhas Ben Yair Ben of Pinhas Grave Shabbat The Mikve of the Ari the The Mikve of

❸ Walking Need a divorce? clockwise, seven times, around this innocuous grave is a mystical remedy that care of the details. will take but watch Nobody admits it, carefully and you will see someone circling the grave and ancient tree next to it. Only men can dip in this little ritual bath in the middle of the ancient The cemetery of Safed. is freezing and there water quick The a crowd. is always dip in the pool is in the of course. nude, ❷ on a special town takes The with night, feeling on Friday and singing in all the prayers synagogues and festivities at the Breslov yeshiva. Travel Tips Travel ❶ Fresca Zehava Fresca

❷ Tunisian-style This eatery serves up excellent coucous and spicy pumpkin salad, among other delicacies. 26 Jerusalem St, (04) 697-4342 Tel.: is famous throughout should not be missed. should not be missed. (42 Ha’ari St, Tel.: (04) (42 Ha’ari St, Tel.:

Safed Safed – you don’t have to dip Maximillan

Tel.: 077-788-2887 Tel.: Reminiscent of an Italian piazza, Maximillan is a pleasant place to stop for a lunch and enjoy a rich salad of seasonal fruit. ❶ of cheeses. The candlestick makers makers candlestick The cheeses. the country for its excellent the country for its excellent Dining Out 692-0326) of a famous mystic is mandatory. made candle on one of the tombs lighting a hand-dipped, locally lighting a hand-dipped, of but in the freezing ritual bath, your way to the ancient synagogue to your way (the eve of the new moon), make make (the eve of the new moon), the eve of the new Jewish month Towards evening, particularly on evening, Towards 692-1093) . in which showcase the

Shulhan Arukh Joseph Caro Joseph

Beit Yosef, ❷ Born in Spain in 1488, Caro settled in Safed in 1536 and wrote he assembled all the halachic rulings to date, and Sasa junction to the turning Sages & Saints Sages Makers Miracle of at the grave Start the tour hidden deep Ben Uziel, Yonatan Safed. forest near in the Biriya second-century sage famous This the a matchmaker; is known as hundreds of scarves attached together with the to the grave to the supplicants’ notes attest make there, From abilities. sage’s to Meron and visit the your way tomb of Rabbi Simeon Bar Yohai, of the probably the most famous lunch, For ancient Jewish sages. stop in Gush Halav at the Giscala to the at the entrance restaurant on at the or a little further village, Lebanese Hummus restaurant. the first street to the right, Take is on the corner, the restaurant both establishments wonders of natural Galilean food. Galilean food. wonders of natural Return to the main road and drive past the that leads to Mount Meron, The highest mountain in Israel. From you to summit. road will take the parking lot at the top of the Moshe Cordovero

❶ Born around 1522 to descendants of Spanish exiles from Cordova, Cordovero instituted the custom of studying outdoors at ancient holy in Galilee. graves Safed Sages The expulsion of the The Jews from Spain in 1492 throughout the reverberated uprooting The Jewish world. widespread of families, and the conversions, reign of terror Inquisition’s revived the debate about the meaning of Jewish existence. In the years that followed, messianic hopes were rekindled along with interest in Kabbalah in the search for This a path to redemption. coincided with the conquest by of the Land of Israel who welcomed Turks, the In the Jewish settlement. Safed sixteenth century, became a centre of Jewish to which sages, learning, The and mystics were drawn. Jews of Safed formulated composed philosophies, and instituted liturgies, customs that are part of Jewish life to this day. Lecha Dodi Lecha Dodi

62 Upper Galilee: Green Mountains Photographs: Dita Kohl Kohl Dita Photographs: 63 Upper Galilee: Green Mountains 60 km All Year 6 hours Distance: Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Joseph Caro, Moshe Joseph Caro, Rabbi Ya’acov Beirav Rabbi Ya’acov Safed, and became the Safed,

❺ Born in 1475 in Castile, a student was Beirav Spain, of Abuhav. Rabbi Yitzhak Eighteen years old at the time of the expulsion from to North he moved Spain, appointed Africa and was of the city of Fez. rabbi he years later, Several moved to Egypt and went becoming a into business, Eventually, wealthy man. settled he left his business, in His pupils head of a yeshiva. included and Moshe of Cordovero, He tried among others. Trani, of to reinstate the practice but had ordination of rabbis, to flee to Damascus after his activities were reported He later to the authorities. returned to Safed and died there in 1546. Safed Sages Moshe Alsheikh

❹ he Turkey, Born in came to Safed to be by ordained as a rabbi Afterward, Joseph Caro. he opened his own Alsheikh yeshiva. died around 1600. Isaac Luria

Born in Jerusalem and Born in Jerusalem and Ari the in Egypt, raised settled in Safed around joined 1569 and was by pupils seeking to study his unique system of Kabbalah. ❸ mind boggling. orchids to Greek cyclamens, is orchids to Greek cyclamens, forest flowers on this walk, from forest flowers on this walk, and spring, the quantity of rare the quantity of rare and spring, return to the parking lot. In winter return to the parking lot. the walk around the summit and around the walk bear left, in order to complete bear left, trail that leads down the mountain that leads trail Galilee. At the junction with the Galilee. forest with views of the entire through a hauntingly beautiful summit. This one-hour jaunt runs one-hour jaunt This summit. marked trail that runs around the that runs around the trail marked mountain, set out on the clearly set out on mountain, Beit Jann Beit Olive Press Peki’in. In the past, In the past, Peki’in.

Tel.: (04) 997-3118 Tel.: ❷ is next to restaurant The the ancient synagogue in the site served as an olive press and flour mill in the village.

Perched Villages Perched Pekei'n in the village of Beit Start the tour village in Israel. the highest Jann, at this Druze Enjoy local hospitality up to the shrine village and drive overlooking the of Nebi Khader, favourite is a This Lower Galilee. who jump spot for hang gliders, drive Then off the cliff – be careful. where the to the village of Peki’in, is Yohai cave of Rabbi Simeon Bar is said village spring The located. as do qualities, to have miraculous drape the massive old vines that themselves around the verandahs the hospitality Enjoy of the houses. near of the small local museum sure to stop and make the spring, off at the famous olive oil soap to taste factory and a local bakery Then the special Druze pita bread. drive to the little hilltop village of road winds around The Fassuta. the mountains until it reaches this unique Melkite Greek Catholic church at the top The community. of the hill is fascinating and the are the best that quaint alleyways Etz Hatut Bamayan

❶ under restaurant This the mulberry tree beside the spring in Peki’in offers all types of Druze dishes and delicacies. 052-8285631,052- Tel.: 8285811,052-8585855 Diwan Al-Mukhtar The Synagogue of Peki’in The Synagogue

Dining Out Tel.: (04) 957-1880 Tel.: ❷ In the heart of Peki’in, stands beside the spring, an ancient building from that serves the Ottoman era as the museum of Peki’in and of Druze heritage. Hear lectures and stories that was about the diwan the home, the mukhtar’s the Jewish village history, the settlement in Peki’in, Druze customs and heritage, explanations and stories about the secret religion, and the relations between the Druze and the State of Israel. ❶ Maintained for many years by a single Jewish family over that never left Peki’in sure to meet make the ages, when visiting the caretaker this historic synagogue. Don't Miss

64 Upper Galilee: Green Mountains Photographs: Doron Horowitz Horowitz Doron Photographs: 65 Upper Galilee: Green Mountains 80 km All Year Full Day Distance: Travel Time: Travel Best Months: Dr Dabour Min Hateva Safta Gamila

Tel.: (04) 957-5932 Tel.: ❸ Dr Dabour Laboratories strives to create healthy, chemical-free nourishing, skincare products using local ingredients. natural, Beit Jann, (04) 980-371112 Tel.: Safta Gamila began gathering medicinal herbs 30 hills over in the Peki’in She turns them years ago. oils creams, into therapeutic skin problems, for various and soaps. ❷ scented shop sells This personalised candles, candles as well as a wide of medicinal soaps, range gemstones, creams, oils, scented and natural incense, soaps. Soap and Candles Soap and ❶ Abirim, Morel

❹ to At the entrance European Abirim, with a Galilee cuisine, touch including local wines and products. Mitzpe 054-586-3546 Tel.: Abirim a Goren Forest. Drive to Goren Goren Forest. Safa’s Restaurant Safa’s

Beit Jann, (04) 980-3567❷ Tel.: Enjoy authentic Druze food and spectacular views at the restaurant that Marzuk and Safa Harb established. ❸ beaches north of Nahariya. a swim at Akhziv or one of the a swim at and take the road to the coast for and take the this scenic route all the way to this scenic route all the way signs and marked in red. Follow Follow in red. signs and marked signed with Jewish National Fund dirt road leading off to the left for 500 metres until you see a along the road you arrived on tourist attractions. Drive back tourist attractions. small village home to B&Bs and small village home to B&Bs here make your way to your way here make hideaway villages can offer. From From villages can offer. hideaway

Canaan Spa Hotel Bikta B'Kadita Amirim Guest Houses

Indigo P.O.Box 1052, Safed, P.O.Box (04) 692-1963, Tel.: www.kadita.co.il ❹ established as a was Amirim, resting at vegetarian and vegan village, a height of 600 meters above sea level. Choose from 15 different wood cabins and romantic, in the most remote, settings. natural Fifth house from the entrance, (04) 698-9803 Amirim, Tel.: www.amirim.com Tel.: (04) 987-0034 Tel.: ❷ and hotel restaurant, spa, modern This of Mount can be found perched on top of Safed. Canaan overlooking the city Mt. Canaan, Safed, (04) 699-3000 Tel.: ❸ in the Five wood cabins nestled away southern on the Galilee mountains, offer unique Mountain, slope of Kutar jeep hiking trails, accommodation, also have They and horse riding. trails, their own winery. Overnight ❶ domed roofs and Between the Ella and Pablo handmade curtains, talents are evident Ariel's artistic guesthouse they throughout the behind and decorated built, designed, Abbirim. their home in Mitzpe

66 Upper Galilee: Green Mountains Photographs: Doron Horowitz Doron Photographs: 67 Photographs: Hanay 69 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations Caron Amy Photographs:

Acco Festival of Alternative Theatre, Alternative Theatre, Acco Festival of

different, the Galilee has a festival for you. different, you love music or film or something entirely entirely you love music or film or something circles around the Sea of Galilee. Whether around circles between Asia and Europe, and athletes run Asia and Europe, between glimpse of the millions of birds migrating glimpse of the millions of birds birdwatchers fill the Hula Valley to catch a fill the Hula Valley birdwatchers to the globe. Theatre lovers and performers flock globe. Theatre attract visitors of all sorts from all over the attract visitors of all sorts from it the setting for a wide variety of events that it the setting for a wide variety of The tranquil beauty of the Galilee has made The tranquil beauty of the Galilee

Annual Celebrations Festivals and Pilgrimages: Festivals (Tel.: (Tel.: which spans

Askal

❷ bred at tasty variety This the Hebrew University’s Agriculture is of Faculty the hope of the future due to its high yield of oil when grown in hedgerows. Tel.: 077-323-5555, Tel.: ) www.gogalilee.org headquarters of the local Olive Council which offers guided olive and the oil tastings and workshops, set in an ancient farmers' market, the elegant home, and courtyard built as a residence for the British governor of the Galilee. October Press October Festival Olive month that oliveOctober is the the country beginpresses around and marks the season, their picking annual Olive Branch opening of the ( Festival (04) 980-7614, Moshav Goren), two weekends of events across of events two weekends visits to olive offering the Galilee, workshops, open homes, presses, and gourmet meals, tours, Exact alternative health treatments. annually. date varies Among the many activities, means to are a great the hikes of thediscovering the hidden gems offering a with trails groves, valley glimpse into the history of the area. After hiking through the ancient visit Hanania Farm groves, Barnea

❶ Bred at the Hebrew Faculty University’s this of Agriculture, has aromatic variety the perfect blend of bitterness and pungency. Barnea and other Local Olives Israel produces less than produces less than Israel three million 10,000 of the tons of olive oil produced yet worldwide each year, olive oil is acclaimed Israel’s as is its research worldwide, on olive trees. At a recent contest in first place for varietal Greece, oil made from Koroneiki to not awarded olives was an oil made from Koroneiki olives grown in their native but olives grown in Greece, farmers Meanwhile, Israel. all over the globe are growing that were olive varieties developed in Israel. One of the more intriguing statistics is that some 90 percent of the olive oil is graded produced in Israel virgin – meaning it is extra contains no not processed, and has less than additives, 0.8% acidity. World-Class Oil World-Class

70 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations Museum ( (04) 678-1312) lodgings inaBedouingrove( celebrations. Availability fortent Bedouin storytellingsessionsand and herbsworkshops, withevening experience bypartakinginspice Embrace theGalileanBedouin course available throughout. — frombottlestocansisof Olive oilinallkindsofcontainers millstone andtastingattheend. oil, frompickingtocrushingina experience eachstageofpressing bitter oil. aromatic, andoften city of Tyre. Itisarich, ancient Phoenicianport it isnamedafterthe of olivenativetoIsrael, One ofthetwostrains ➌

Souri Souri Tel.: (04)677-0333), . OrvisittheEinDor pleasant texture. fruity flavourand known foritsdelicate, Israel forages. Itis has grownthroughout Nablus, theNabaliolive Named forthecityof ❹

Nabali Nabali Tel.: to to the localdairy'srestaurant. Hebrew aswellmealsat seminars inEnglishor activities, workshops, and can arrange avariety of them. The visitorscentre from thepeoplewhomake Moshav KfarKischdirectly other itemsproducedat sheep’s milkcheeses, and Learn aboutoliveoil, wine, ❷ www.birgerfarm.co.il Tel.: (04)662-0788, Moshav KfarKisch, and vineyards. Tour thefarm'solivegroves Tabor forthreegenerations. farm atthefootofMount olive oilandwineontheir producing award-winning The Birgerfamilyhasbeen ❶ Travel Tips www.havat.co.il Tel.: (04)662-0788, Moshav KfarKisch,

Hacienda Birger Kfar Kisch Visitors Centre Workshops, Tours,

Tastings October When: What:

Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations Annual Pilgrimages: and Festivals 71

Photographs: Dita Kohl, Yadin Roman, Liad Solenko/ courtesy of Hacienda Birger Tiberias Tiberias follows the course (The Israeli Athletic historical landmarks of the Tiberias, winding through Tiberias, Run along the Lake along Run Marathon Galilee the circumference As it turns out Galilee is exactly the of the Sea of this has length of a marathon, creation not only brought into but Marathon, the Sea of Galilee at the also having it held annually just after beginning of January So if you Hannuka and Christmas. to run around the famous want is your chance. this Gospel lake, International The Marathon of the Sea of Galilee, and is known of the Sea of Galilee, in for being the 'lowest' marathon some 200 metres below the world, at the foot of the Jordan sea level, asphalt course is flat The Valley. and follows the shoreline and fast, starting in of the Sea of Galilee, the main streets of the ancient city of ancient crossing the Jordan Valley, Jordan and continuing to Kibbutz River, Association, 10 Shitrit St, Tel.: Tel.: Association, 10 Shitrit St, (03) 648-6256,www.tiberias- marathon.co.il), If you prefer cycling to your visit plan running, for November so you can participate in the annual that is happening bike one of the largest sporting come Bikers events in Israel. from near and far to ride along one of the routes set up on the shores of the Sea can Participants of Galilee. choose between routes of different lengths and on – from flat different terrains routes close to the shore to challenging hilly routes from it. slightly farther away event ends with a fair at The Zemach Beach. Two Wheels Two

72 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations Photographs: Doron Horowitz, Tiberias Muncipality Tiberias Horowitz, Doron Photographs: 73 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations What: When: When: January Marathon In the Water An annual swim marathon thousands to attracts the Sea of Galilee every Routes of September. from 1.5 different lengths, kilometres to 6 kilometres, for both amateurs and professionals of all ages are set up in the lake. Entire families participate with children in the event, swimming alongside their parents in the festive Boats and rafts atmosphere. are stationed along the allowing participants routes, a rest mid-swim. to take Most participants are more focused on having fun than competing and swim at their though own leisurely speed, to those prizes are awarded with the fastest times in each category. Migdal, and Migdal, Tabgah Tiberias area before Tiberias Tiberias. Enjoy a week of Enjoy a Tiberias. rippling waters. rippling waters. hills, autumnal sunshine, and autumnal sunshine, hills, exquisite backdrop of the Galilee festive atmosphere against the sit on the sidelines, soak up the sit on the sidelines, tours, or for those who prefer to tours, sports conferences, and walking and walking sports conferences, enthusiasts can partake in hikes, in hikes, enthusiasts can partake the marathon, where sports- the marathon, Capernaum, Capernaum, around the Ein-Gev before running through Ein-Gev before running and festivities in and celebrations back to arrived Acre, Acre, Acre hosts Acco Festival of Acco Festival

(www.accofestival.co.il) (www.accofestival.co.il) Alternative Theatre Alternative Festival Acco port city of ancient The has hidden by walls, surrounded at the foot of deep in its heart, an enchanted garden. the Citadel, is enclosed by stone garden This with a moat and guard walls, the In 1980, tower. Alternative Theatre on the other side of the wall, wall, on the other side of the the garden of the separating Citadel from the Knights' which is where the Courtyard, and place; first performances took and bringing with it new energies life to the ancient fortress. fascinating city of The every October. this annual festival city is steeped in history: The it has been inhabited since the Phoenician period and has recently World been declared a UNESCO with its mosques, Heritage Site, and Crusader ancient baths, khans, fortress ruins providing exquisite venues for theatre performances, creating a connection between the Haifa 50 Pazner St, Haifa, (04) 860-0500, Tel.: www.ht1.co.il theatre’s troupe travels to troupe travels theatre’s stages throughout Israel and performs at theatre in Europe and festivals the take America, North opportunity to see it on its home turf. Founded in 1961, the Haifa in 1961, Founded is known Theatre Municipal for presenting new plays by playwrights leading Israeli such as Joshua Sobol as well as classics by Shakespeare and Moliere and more modern classics by Edward Its repertoire generally Albee. Arab-Israeli deals with the conflict and issues that are society, important to Israeli such as the Holocaust, immigration, unemployment, of new and the integration While the immigrants. Haifa Theatre

74 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations Photographs: Courtesy Haifa Municipality Haifa Courtesy Photographs: 75 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations What: When: When: Theatre October www.safed.co.il Klezmer Festival Klezmer sound of Klezmer The music fills the streets of Safed for three days every Klezmer bands summer. and fans from all over the world converge on The this mountaintop city. musicians perform both and unusual traditional renditions of the music that played at weddings was in Jewish and celebrations villages throughout Eastern The Europe for centuries. permeates Klezmer festival with the entire city of Safed, performances in concert the ancient cobbled halls, alleys lined with art galleries synagogues, and studios, and large stages set up under the stars especially for also festivities The the event. activities, includes children’s and tours, masters classes, seminars. communities. from all walks of life and from all walks by young aspiring Israeli actors by young aspiring Israeli early for interesting performances sites around the vibrant city. Book city. sites around the vibrant at a range of venues and historical at a range foreign theatre troupes, performing foreign theatre troupes, along with offerings of local and features theatrical competitions, features theatrical competitions, guest productions/installations, and guest productions/installations, plays, music, dance, street theatre, street theatre, dance, music, plays, This four-day festival encompasses encompasses festival four-day This audience. audience. theatrical piece, the place, and the place, the theatrical piece, is held Guests can

(www.haifaff.co.il) Haifa International Film Haifa International Festival Festival Haifa International Haifa Festival Film The on the beautiful Mount Carmel, Mount Carmel, on the beautiful the Mediterranean overlooking the leading cinematic It is Sea. and brings together event in Israel audience an ever-growing of 70,000 spectators along and with hundreds of Israeli and International filmmakers year, television producers each films. to premier some 170 new runs for 10 convivial festival This in days in the period of Succoth, and offers outdoor events, October, and film screenings. is complemented programme The by live music and concerts of film film poster exhibitions, scores, and animation shows. enjoy gala premieres with a glass or garden, of wine in the festival giving them a go to a preview, chance to see productions months before they are screened in Israeli those in the 'biz', For cinemas. workshops and conferences are Waltz with with Waltz (2008), which has (2008), taken off in recent off in taken been awarded a shelf-full been awarded is of international prizes, perhaps the best example of Its cinema. the new Israeli success has inspired other to ambitious filmmakers footsteps follow in Folman’s and produce a handful of world-class films. Bashir The Israeli film industry Israeli The has as funding for films years, increase and the graduates first film of the country’s Spiegel the Sam school, School, Television Film and mature professionally. B melodramatic, The movies that dominated film industry the Israeli for most of the State of existence have Israel’s to sophisticated given way cinematography, plots, Director and animation. Ari Folman’s Israeli Film Israeli

76 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations 77 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations

Festival of Festivals Haifa celebrates its multicultural population every year with the 'Festival of Festivals'. Held on weekends throughout the entire month of December, it is a joint celebration of Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. The event epitomises the values of coexistence, living together in peace and available on a variety of subjects harmony, and mutual respect (check programme for details), of all six religions in the city. while filmmakers compete for titles Activities are centered in the such as Best Mediterranean Film, Wadi Nisnas neighbourhood Filmmaker of Tomorrow, and Best and extend to the German Colony at the foot of the Israeli Feature, among others. Set Bahai Gardens. They include in Mediterranean surroundings, an antique fair, a food fair of this festival is a true feast of local delicacies, ethnic music talent, cinema, and culture, a sure and theatre performances, way to enjoy another of Israel's and a crafts fair. In addition, hidden gems. there are parades, dance performances, children’s theatre, and arts and crafts workshops and activities for children.

When: October What: Films and Celebs Photographs: Illustration courtesy of Ari Folman, Liebermann-Aharoni Communications, Kira Bick Photographs: Illustration courtesy of Ari Folman, Liebermann-Aharoni , the central the central , Zohar Simeon Bar Yohai’s death, the death, Yohai’s Simeon Bar book of Jewish mysticism. Though Though book of Jewish mysticism. scholars have concluded that the book written some 1,000 years after was Rabbi spirit of mysticism hovers over his with pilgrims tomb at Mount Meron, to ask to his grave pushing their way The for them. a miracle him to make pilgrimage on the anniversary of his death is far from mournful – instead complete of his life, it is a celebration Lag Ba’omer Lag Meron to Ascent of part a central Pilgrimage is and Islam. Judaism, Christianity, where has its holy sites, Each religion saints are buried, occurred, miracles Making a are recited. and prayers of saints and the graves pilgrimage to of their holy men on the anniversary of Jewish deaths has long been a part even more but it has become tradition, most The mainstream in recent years. Simeon popular tomb is that of Rabbi of upwards which attracts Yohai, Bar of 300,000 visitors on the anniversary happens to coincide which his death, Ba’omer, with the minor holiday of Lag and of Passover between the festivals Shavuot. fame sage’s second-century This that comes from the popular belief he authored the Simeon Bar Yohai’s Simeon Bar Yohai’s Johanan Hasandlar Johanan Eleazar Ben Simeon Simeon Yohai Bar

➌ Rabbi Simeon Like Bar Yohai, Akiva’s one of Rabbi he was outstanding pupils who was known for his dedication to continuing the study of and Jewish life. Torah ❷ After spending his childhood Rabbi Eleazar Ben in a cave, Simeon went on to become his Unlike a noted scholar. for the he worked father, Roman authorities that his father had revolted against. ❶ One of the five pupils of that survived Akiva Rabbi Revolt, the Bar Kokhba Rabbi efforts to continue Judaism earned him a death which he evaded sentence, by hiding in a cave with his 12 years. for Eleazar, son, Meron’s Saints Meron’s

78 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations 79 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations

The Zohar Literally the 'Book of Splendour', the Zohar is the main book of Jewish mysticism. Much of it is attributed to Rabbi Simeon Bar Yohai, however scholars believe it actually was written by Moses de Leon, who lived in Spain in the thirteenth century. The Zohar consists of several sections, with spirited singing and dancing, most of which are written in feasting, and, for three-year-old Hasidic Aramaic. The main section boys, the first haircut. All through the is a mystical commentary day and night, packed buses carry on much of the Torah. singing pilgrims up the steep, winding Other sections describe the road to the tomb. The area around activities and musings of the tomb is full of stands and kiosks Rabbi Simeon Bar Yohai hawking candles to light by the tomb, and his fellow sages as copies of the Zohar, books of mystical they explore the mysteries writings, refreshments, and blessings in of the universe. The book is exchange for a donation. If you want supposed to be read only to stretch your legs, you can make the after you reach the age climb to 'Elijah's Seat', a prominent of 40, in order to protect rock on the mountain overlooking the immature minds from the tomb complex. The best time to climb is mind-blowing revelations in the late afternoon. about the godhead.

When: May What: Mystical Festival Photographs: Doron Horowitz Photographs: Doron

(www.hulabirdfestival.org) Hula Bird Festival Bird Hula Migrants Winter crossroads of Located at the where several Africa, and Eurasia the Hula bioregions overlap, greatest one of the attracts Valley abundance of diversity and along wildlife and birds found As Valley. the northern Great Rift is one of Valley the Hula a result, and the most important stopover wintering sites for southbound through the Great bird migrations In the late autumn, Valley. Rift thousands of Common Cranes, as over 25 as well Pelicans, flock different species of raptors As part of five Valley. to the Hula weeks of international birding Winter of A events in the Galillee, the first Hula Birds 2011 celebrates Bird Festival Valley giving visitors a spectacular opportunity to witness the winter with a week of events migrations, out Be sure to get in November. as visitors your birds check-list, A tours. can enjoy bird-watching Jordan Valley Center Valley Jordan Hula Nature Reserve Hula Nature Agamon Nature Park Agamon Nature

Tel.: (04) 648-0612, Tel.: www.birdwatching.org.il ➌ International Birdwatching The Valley Centre of the Jordan near Kibbutz Kfar Ruppin is routeon the main migration of white storks and other or Enjoy a guided tour birds. volunteer at the bird-ringing station. Tel.: (04) 693-7069, Tel.: www.parks.org.il ❷ Explore this wetland habitat that is home to tens of thousands of aquatic birds. Tel.: (04) 681-7137, Tel.: www.agamon-hula.co.il ❶ Enjoy the restored wetland, bird-ringing paved paths, golf carts, bicycles, station, at this and safari wagons unique nature park. Birding Sites Birding

80 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations Photographs: Omer Shavit, Doron Horowitz Doron Shavit, Omer Photographs: 81 Festivals and Pilgrimages: Annual Celebrations What: When: When: Festival November Birdwatching Birdwatching Ramim Cliff is the Ramim Cliff Ma'agan Michael Ein Afek Nature Reserve Afek Nature Ein

❻ The and can highest cliff in Israel be ascended by cable car. Shemona, Overlooking Kiryat it is the perfect place to soar above raptors watch the Hula Valley. (04) 690-5830 Tel.: This reserve is the last reserve This remnant of the landscape of the Na'aman Stream flood plains near the coast. (04) 877-8226, Tel.: www.parks.org.il ❺ coast, On the Mediterranean this undeveloped area Tel between the cities of Aviv and Haifa is on a major route for waders migration and sea birds. 073-241-3843, Tel.: www.israbirdcenter.org Birding Sites Birding ❹ scientists. scientists. hosted by leading international migrations, as daily talks will be migrations, the bird-enthusiast about the bird scientific conferences will enlighten opportunities. And a week of opportunities. offering extraordinary photo offering extraordinary and three species of Kingfishers Black Francolin, Pygmy Cormorant Pygmy Cormorant Black Francolin, with local species such as the or the photographers' package, package, or the photographers' photographers can join seminars, can join seminars, photographers day of the week. Budding Budding day of the week. different tour is offered every different tour is offered

Rambling Through Rambling Through Galilee of marked hiking 10,000 kilometres With hiking trails, Israel is one of world's best-kept varied landscapes, ranging Israel’s secrets. the lush Mediterranean vegetation of the from plain and mountains of Galilee to the coastal part of the world the local deserts that are of different desert belt, offer the hiker a myriad distance of hiking experiences within a short marked with a are Hiking trails one another. or red, stripe, which is blue, green, coloured entrance black, between two white strips. The to the trail is marked with a sign. Taking Time: Time: Taking

82 Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee Photographs: Ya'acov Shkolnik Ya'acov Photographs: 83 Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee place.) This is only one of the This place.) many picturesque reserve’s were created by the which coves, that nibble at the ridge. waves in fact, Beach is, Dor-Habonim beach perhaps the most beautiful in Israel. ridge. on the southward Walk the scallop-leaved sea In May, lavender will be in full bloom. thyme blooms in headed The of In the southern part summer. where the red trail the reserve, from the shore and a leads away is off from it, branches green trail – named for Hill of Blossoms The the many tulips that bloom there in March. returns to the green trail The the end of the short parking lot, this For route through the reserve. to Love the red trail follow hike, between a no-man’s-land Bay, Dor Tel the nature reserve and you Further south National Park. Dor. Tel come upon one of the most ancient site, This important cities in the ancient situated in a lovely Land of Israel, has not been part of the coast, developed for visitors. town apparently dates The back to the Middle Canaanite period (eighteenth century BCE). were first conducted Excavations by a British there in 1923-24, expedition led by Prof John Garstang (founding director of the Antiquities in the Department of In British Mandate of Palestine).

Haifa-Tel Aviv highway, drive Aviv highway, Haifa-Tel

To reach the beginning of the reach the beginning of To turn Beach, at Dor-Habonim trail road to Moshav off on the access the bridge over take Habonim, the Dor-Habonim Beach to Caesarea. Beach Dor-Habonim and a few metres to the left, to the turn right on the dirt road you gate, a makeshift At beach. to pay a parking fee will be asked to the large Continue of NIS 20. beside a concrete parking lot, wall. is a box Beside the wall the containing free leaflets from Authority Nature and Parks Israel to the introducing visitors (INPA) in red marked A trail reserve. leads up from the parking lot of North to the top of the ridge. this point stretches the reserve’s in the Camping northern cove. cove is permitted. Right below the parking lot is the a little inlet on Shell Cove, kurkar (calcareous sandstone) ridge covered with a carpet of shells that are thousands of years old and have only recently (Hikers up on the shore. washed to leave the shells in are asked A hike along the seashore from along the seashore A hike To Love Bay and Beyond and Bay Love To Dor Bay and its surrounding area, 17 boats have been area, from periods discovered so far, from the Canaanite ranging to the twentieth century. era boats entered In ancient times, harbour from the south, Dor’s via an opening in the marine to move attempted They platform. in the port the water northward, and the boats flowed southward, beach' is Kurt Raveh, a Dutchman Raveh, beach' is Kurt as a volunteer who came to Israel in War Kippur Yom during the Raveh has 1973 and stayed. Tel at part in excavations taken served as an inspector for Dor, the Antiquities Authority, Israel established the Glassworks and Museum in Nahsholim, fished treasures out of the sea. Aqua he is director of the Today which is also Diving Club, Dora the base for Haifa University’s archaeological underwater research. In Caesarea. To make matters make To Caesarea. 1950, parts of a Roman theatre theatre parts of a Roman 1950, since the and were exposed, from the an expedition 1980s, Jerusalem, University of Hebrew has Stern, Ephraim led by Prof. there. been working and Roman sources, In Hellenistic be located between Dor is said to Carmel and the tip of the Roman geographer Caesarea; Eusebius places it 9 miles north of at excavators even more certain, the site have uncovered a lead period weight from the Hellenistic inscribed with the name Dor. south of Love North of the tell, are the ruins of a seaside Bay, On the edge of Roman theatre. that are the the bay are walls and a remains of warehouses dock. the On the southwestern side of which was tell is its main cove, South used as an anchorage. of the cove are the remains of a temple from the Hellenistic period – apparently dedicated sea. the god of the to Poseidon, streets were built in this Dor’s only a few have been period; excavated. South of the temple rises the of containing remains acropolis, it affords a a Crusader citadel; southern cove, clear view of Dor’s which features the remains of a port from the Late Canaanite massive of Dor’s Parts period. fortifications have been uncovered and the remains of a Byzantine church have been found east of the town. Equally exciting finds were discovered off the coast of whose beach is still called Dor, that village Arab for the Tantura, King of the 'The stood here.

84 Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee 85 Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee Horowitz Doron Photographs: Caesarea, Caesarea, Caesarea National Park. hike. The trail continues parallel parallel continues trail The hike. to the Roman aqueducts along time to arrive at The the beach. at Caesarea the end of the hike, as evening, is towards beach, up the sun and the sea swallows light shrubs of evening primrose up with their large yellow flowers. absolutely forbidden to cross the channel after a rainfall. Aqueduct Beach in Pickup point for cars: Caesarea. 4). Map (No. Trail Carmel Hiking and Map: tracks, and leave your car in the reserve tracks, parking lot. NIS 60 Summer – NIS 20 per car, Fee: per bus. Route 4. From Access: Aqueduct Beach in End point: in the or further, including dips in 7-8 hours, Duration: the sea. None. Admission fees: None. Opening hours: Shoes or sandals for wading Equipment: (Fill-up and plenty of drinking water. Beach.) Tantura point: at its Taninim Crossing Nahal Remarks: when mouth is permitted only in summer, It is the current in the riverbed is slow. Route length: 17 km. Route length: Moderate. Difficulty: Nature Reserve. Dor-Habonim Start point: Entry via the access road to Moshav 183). marker kilometre Habonim (Route 4, turn onto Instead of entering the moshav, the dirt road leading to the beach (it’s carefully cross the railroad signposted), crashed into the shoals and sank. into the crashed coins have a half of old A ton and Beach, Tantura on been found vessels. as many pottery as well other weapons have Cannons and here – some of the also turned up soldiers French gear of 12,000 their load during who lightened infamous retreat from Napoleon’s Acre. the ridge and deep South of Dor, are no trail There coves are gone. but you can’t get lost. markings, along the southward Simply walk between the sea and right beach, the fishponds. outlet into the Taninim’s Nahal sea is one of the most romantic watch places along the beach to mouth of Nahal The the sunset. across. has to be waded Taninim is knee- In summer the water Do not attempt to cross the deep. river before the month of May The as the current can be lethal. an arched built Turks Ottoman bridge here for German Emperor who passed through Wilhelm II, from Haifa to in 1898 on his way Its remains are clearly Jerusalem. visible. Tel on South of the riverbed, come upon the Israel you Taninim, to that which leads down Trail, point from the Carmel Range to and continues southward only place is the This Caesarea. in the country where the Israel Tel runs near the seacoast. Trail of contains the remains Taninim (City of Crocodiles), Krokodilopolis which flourished in Roman and In the Crusader Byzantine times. known the town was period, Salinarum (Saltworks Turris as salt was perhaps because Tower), hike The produced in the area. ends with a three-kilometre beach Rabbi Yishmael. Park and go up Park Yishmael. Rabbi which is in a little to the grave, compound graced whitewashed It is on the left by an olive tree. can also get You side of the road. Hagalili’s Yossi here by foot from down the south by walking grave past the face of Mount Dalton, remains of the village of Dalta. sources state that the Medieval son of Yishmael, of Rabbi grave This is at Dalton. Hagalili, Yossi however. reference is problematic, Rabbi son was Hagalili’s Yossi is related Yishmael Rabbi Eliezer; to Abba Halafta. you can After visiting the grave, continue by car along the red- dirt road until it curves marked leading you to an to the right, off the here, Park apple orchard. Look around until you find road. markings painted the green trail fence posts. on the orchard’s the markings through Follow far end At the a cow pasture. From the entrance to Moshav to Moshav the entrance From the signs and follow Dalton, Yossi of Rabbi drive to the grave Hagalili at the top of Mount signs will lead you The Dalton. to the back gate of the moshav to and along a road leading up a Hagalili was Yossi the summit. lived Galilean Jewish sage who Like during the second century. Honi the Mishnaic sage known as Hagalili was Yossi the Circlemaker, His grave regarded as a rainmaker. at Dalton is mentioned in a report Sahal from 910 CE by the Karaite, According to this ben Matzliah. it was tenth-century document, customary for childless women grave The at the grave. to pray remains a popular pilgrimage site. (15th Be’av Tu on Every summer, of courtship the festival Av), of is a local celebration and love, held at the site. Return by car along the same gate, Just after the back route. a left into the moshav and make drive along the security fence until you see another exit leading with exit is marked The eastward. signs directing you to the graves Hagalili and Yossi ben Yishmael of ben Timma. Yehuda has which the paved road, Follow After markings (2155). red trail you’ll come passing the cemetery, of to signs leading to the grave - abound in the Gali ancient Jewish sages Graves of some of the lesser- to visit fun hike this Follow lee. view is an added bonus. The known graves. Rabbi Yossi Hagalili’s Hagalili’s Yossi Rabbi Neighbourhood

86 Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee 87 Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee Horowitz Doron Photographs: Upper Galilee Hiking and Trail Map Trail Upper Galilee Hiking and Timma. The grave is 150 metres grave The Timma. area. inside a military firing range still enter the and pilgrims Hikers you are that aware but be area, Yehuda doing so at your own risk. second-century a was Timma ben in Dalton his grave Galilean sage, mentioned by the sixteenth- was Moshe century Jewish traveller who visited the area in Basula, 1522. continue along the After that, Turn back to the orchard. red trail markings right along the red trail and back to your car. settlement. Cars cannot enter the moshav settlement. on Saturdays and Jewish holidays. End of route. Pickup point for cars: Map: 2) (No. Route length: 3 km. Route length: Easy. Difficulty: Moshav Dalton. Start point: Route 886. Access: Ring route. End point: 1.30 hours. Duration: None. Admission fees: None. Opening hours: Regular. Equipment: Moshav Dalton is a religious Remarks: of the pasture you might see of the pasture you might see The a tame-looking little fox. has become accustomed to fox to be human visitors and expects are known carriers As foxes fed. a safe distance keep of rabies, green The from this wild animal. ends at a junction with a trail along the red right Turn red trail. and go up Mount (2156), trail winds through trail The Evyatar. you and the brush and bushes, might lose sight of the markings Patience every now and then. and a quick search or careful you on the will keep backtracking Once atop the mountain, path. you’ll have a spectacular view the Nahal Alma Plateau, of the the northern Dishon riverbed, the Hula and border settlements, wildflowers In winter, Valley. bloom in abundance on this wild among them the rare hill, which is dark blue. hyacinth, eastward the red trail Follow At the point along the mountain. just where the path turns south, you’ll past a small clump of trees, come to a signposted path that ben Yehuda of leads to the grave Continue following the blue trail trail Continue following the blue along markings as they lead you point the road down the hill to a leaves the road. where the trail Descend here along a wooded slope to a gate in a fence. but please Go through the gate, close it afterward. sure to make The hill. curls around a trail The top of the hill has a few farm buildings on it. you will reach the edge Suddenly, of the cliff face that drops off into Find a spot to Valley. the Hula stop and enjoy the view here with and new channels, its fish ponds, Agamon flooded areas called the is the Opposite (the small lake). lines with its two Golan Heights, Yiftah, until you come until Yiftah, This six-kilometre route is a great six-kilometre This down a breathtaking spring walk leads trail The mountainside. Range down the Naftali Mountain Valley. into the Hula straight wild April and early May, In and tulips anemones, hyacinths, are in full bloom all around. past Drive north on Route 886 Kibbutz 65 and 66. to kilometre markers the right along this stretch of To you’ll see an opening in the road, fence along the road with a wide path leading through it. is where you should begin This your descent on foot into the Canyon. Yiftah is no parking There carefully. Park area here and the road is ends As the tour dangerous. you will at the Goma Junction, for a driver to need to arrange pick you up there. canyon is actually a chasm The Small jumbled up with rocks. metal grips allow for a fun time Explore while climbing through. longer than you – it will take on chasm continues The think. From the other side of the road. in marked a trail the canyon, 2060) leads off into blue (trail it to a paved Follow the woods. road that leads to a farm further down the slope. to Goma Junction Junction to Goma This in Israel. hikes most beautiful spring One of the Naftali range the 800-metre-high route descends spectacular views offering Valley, Hula cliff into the and Lebanon. the Golan, of Mount Hermon, Yiftah Canyon Yiftah

88 Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee Photographs: Doron Horowitz Doron Photographs: 89 Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee Yiftah Junction. Yiftah covered with the best, and the covered with the best, wild flowers. of Israel’s rarest, Large oak trees and ancient path. Atlantic pistachios dot the last remains of the are the They The ancient forests of Naftali. beside ends at Route 90, trail the near 464, kilometre marker Goma Junction. on the road. on the road. End of route. Pickup point for cars: Golan and Hermon Hiking and Map: Map Trail 1). (No. Route length: 6 km. Route length: hike. Family Difficulty: between kilometre Route 886, Start point: markers 65 and 66. From Access: near Goma Junction. Route 90, End point: 4 hours. Duration: None. Admission fees: None. Opening hours: Regular. Equipment: during Spectacular family hike Remarks: the late winter or early spring (March- Be careful getting out of the car at May). you might not be visible to the start point; approaching cars driving round the bend of volcanoes clearly visible. Snow- of volcanoes clearly visible. in capped Mount Hermon looms with the Lebanon the distance, and the mountains of Valley Lebanon further back. cliff goes along the trail The to for awhile and then begins At Valley. descend into the Hula it follows a course through first, planted pine woods, natural In May, and heavy scrub. forests, and trees bushes, the flowers, on the slope burst into various ground is The shades of yellow. - Adamit and south of Kibbutz 3 km later descends into the At riverbed of Nahal Betzet. the (2206) junction of the blue trail The turn left. and the red trail, here is shaded by large trail hot In Israel’s oriental plane trees. plenty these trees need climate, grow happily along They of water. flows where water this riverbed, all year long from the Karkara of which feed a number Springs, shallow pools further down the through the trail Follow blue trail. the large oleander bushes that bloom in pink in summer. for Continue along the trail another kilometre up the riverbed. Nahal Betzet flows At this point, through an impressive wide canyon with 300-metre-high limestone cliffs on both sides. with cliff face is pockmarked The of typical caves and cavities, limestone rocks in a land with Betzet riverbed in the valley Betzet riverbed in the valley Adamit Park, begin hiking Adamit Park, Haifa Bay, the Carmel Range Haifa Bay, on the green-marked trail (No. (No. trail on the green-marked The map). 2180 on the trail is paved in beginning of the trail order to allow wheelchair access cave’s The Cave. to the Keshet and roof have collapsed, walls leaving only a huge limestone from which the arch still intact, Keshet Hebrew name, cave’s top of the arch The (arch) derives. for is a popular jumping-off point who can thus descend rappellers, some 30 metres along the exposed cliff face before landing on the firm ground of the former a good chance There's cave floor. at the cave you'll that on arrival types see a few Spiderman-like roaming around. high up point, this lookout From you will also on the side of a hill, have a lovely view of the coastal region and the Upper Galilee, the and the to the south and west, Nahal below. A look down at the goat dung on the floor of the cave will tell you of in a minute that generations modern right up until shepherds, for have used the cave times, and shelter from pouring rain After inspecting sweltering heat. of the follow the ridge the cave, on the red-marked cliff eastward passes to the trail The (2207). trail From From A hike between two very different caves in the lime different caves in between two very A hike is One of the Upper Galilee. stone formations a the other is a cliff, rainbow cave in a collapsed of karst tunnels. warren Keshet to Sharach Keshet

90 Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee Photographs: Robert Adventure and Challenge and Adventure Robert Photographs: 91 Taking Time: Rambling Through Galilee Kibbutz Adamit picnic site, Adamit picnic site, Adamit picnic site, west of Adamit picnic site, Sharach Picnic Site, 100 metres Site, Picnic Sharach Adamit. Upper Galilee Hiking and Trail Map Trail Upper Galilee Hiking and Sharach picnic site. Sharach past the cave, for about 1.5 km about 1.5 km for cave, past the You’ll incline. gentle uphill along a into the from the woods emerge JNF and descend along a kibbutz back road to the pumping station and to the the trail Follow Springs. Karkara Cave. Sharach End of route. Pickup point for cars: Map: 2). (No. Northern Border Road (Route 899) and Northern Border turn left onto the access road to in the Continue 4 more km Adamit. right turning direction of the kibbutz, in green on an unpaved road marked that ends at the JNF’s begins. where the trail End point: Hagalil. to Granot west of the entrance unpaved 1 km on the blue-marked Walk road to the parking area. 7 hours. Duration: None. Admission fees: None. Opening hours: Flashlight. Equipment: a shorter route If you want Remarks: at Kibbutz Eilon start your hike (4 km), Route length: 7.6 km. Route length: Easy-Moderate. Difficulty: Start point: Horvat on the drive east Shlomi, From Access: Sharach and leads through and leads through Sharach Adamit range. We will follow will follow We Adamit range. the blue trail, that leads off to the the blue trail, now enters (2206) trail The right. Nahal which woods, Mediterranean pistachio feature common oaks, Judas officinal storax, trees, whole area is The and ivy. trees, in also laced with ferns (sharach which the riverbed after Hebrew), lush The and cave are named. this a cool overgrowth makes even on a hot day. hike, Half a kilometre after the fork you’ll see the in the riverbed, Cave on your left. Sharach a flashlight and enter the Take observing the stalactite cave, formations created by water seeping through the calcium The carbonate of the cave walls. Authority Nature and Parks Israel a short walking has marked route through the narrow cave, you’ll exit complete with a ladder; from a second opening that is a bit to the east. Continue along the blue trail, abundant winter rains. The trail trail The winter rains. abundant and reaches the riverbed crosses Here you the canyon. a fork in black The junction. a trail come to village leads to the Bedouin trail of at the top el-Aramshe Arab of the Belvoir 37 Belvoir 32 Berachta 45 Bet Gabriel 38 35, 34, Hagelilit Bethlehem Betzet 90 Café 37 Bikels 66 Bikta B'Kadita 19 18, Binyamina Winery 19 Binyamina 56 53, Forest Biriya Bistro de Carmel 19 C Cactus 46 83, 20, 15, 14, Caesarea 13, 85 84, Caesarea Golf Club 14 Caesarea Harbour 15 15 Caesrea National Park Café Rishonim 49 Canaan Spa Hotel 66 73 43, Capernaum 42, 17 Carmel Caves National Park 20 Carmel Forest Spa Resort 20 Carmel Forest Carmel Man 17 15, 14, Carmel Mountains 13, 21 20, 19, 18, 17, 16, 35 Yevulim Carmel Cashtonio wine cellar 19 Chocolata 53 Church of Saint Joseph 47 Apostles 42 Church of the 43 Church of the Beatitudes 42, Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes 42 44 Crocodile Farm Colony Hotel Haifa 24 D Al HaDan 52 Dag 17 el-Carmel 16, Daliyat Dalton 57 Dan Caesaria 20 54 Dan Springs, Bridge 53 Daughters of Jacob Dead Sea 39 Decks 41 A 65 Abirim 27 Abu Christo 41 Abu Salah 74 Acco 69, 85 74, 29, 28, 27, 26, Acre 25, 28 Acre Old City 91 Adamit 90, 30 Adelina Restaurant 57 Agamon Lookout 80 Agamon Nature Park Agenda 15 Ahuzat Zamarin Hotel 20 31 Akhziv 30, 31 Akhziv National Park 28 Akkotel Mosque 26 Al-Jazzar 43 Almagor 42, Alon Hagalil 35 Alreda 46 Amiad Junction 41 Amirim 66 Amirim Guest Houses 66 Andarin 47 Antiquity Museum 14 Aqueduct beach 14 Ascent of Safed 60 49 Ashdot-Ya’akov Askal 70 Atlit 16 B 32 Ayali Etzel B'Vadi 26, 22, Bahai Gardens 21, 77 27, Barnea 70 46 Annunciation, Basilica of the 60 Ya’ar Bat Ranch 53 Yaar Bat Beach of Dor 14 43 Walk Beatitudes Aaronson 18 Beit Beit Daniel 18 65 64, 5, Beit Jann Beit Oren 16 Beit Shalom 55 Beit She’arim 35 Beit Shturman 36

92 Index 93 Index Goren 65, 70 65, Goren 61 Yair of Pinhas Ben Grave 41 Akiva of Rabbi Grave 62 Gush Halav H Habonim 14 14 Habonim beach 71 Hacienda Birger 16 Hai Bar Carmel 27 26, Haifa 25, 24 23, 22, 21, 20, 16, Haifa 5, 90 85, 84, 81 83, 77, 76, 74, Haifa Bay 16 Shel Noga 35 Hakdera 26 Hamam al-Basha bathhouse 44 Tiberias Hamat Hanamal 24 22 70 Hanania Farm 38 36, Valley Harod Haruach HaGalil 32 Haruzula 53 Hattin 40 30 Hazuk Halavan Hecht Museum 22 Hefzi-bah 36 Helena 15 Hotel Kibbutz Nahsholim 20 55, 54, 53, 52, 51, Valley Hula 58 57, 56, Agamon 52 Hula 80 Hula Nature Reserve 52, 26 Hummus in the Market I Isaac Luria 63 17 16, Isfiya J 15 Museum 14, Janco-Dada Jesus Boat 44 36, 35, 34, 33, Valley Jezreel 38 37, Johanan Hasandlar 78 John Deere Land 34 Jordan river 54 Centre 80 Valley Jordan 63 Joseph Caro 62, Decks 9 Decks Alef 48 Deganya Bet 48 Deganya 47 Diana Trips 56 Dishon ATV Al-Mukhtar 64 Diwan 42 Domus Galilaeae Street 40 Donna Gracia 20 Dor 14, Dor Bay 84 Doris 55 Douzan 23 Dr Dabour 65 Druze Heritage House 16 E Afek Nature Reserve 81 Ein Ein Dor 71 49 Ein Gev 42, 38 37, Ein Harod 36, House Ein Harod Country Guest 38 15 Ein Hod 14, 14 Village Artists’ Ein Hod 36 Yizrael Ein Ein Zeitim 56 El Mejana 47 27 El-Umdan caravansary Elbabour Galilee Mill 46 Eleazar Ben Simeon 78 Enchanted Garden 26 Etsusha 31 64 Etz Hatut Bamayan F 64 Fassuta 23 Fattouch Azar Inn (Images in folder) Fauzi 50 61 Zehava Fresca G Winery 57 Galil Mountain Gan Hashlosha 36 Genoese Quarter 26 24 German Colony 22, Gesher 37 14 Glass Factory System 34 Water Megiddo 41 Maker Miracle Meir the 56 Menara 36 Merhavia Meron 62 34 Meshek Zak 55 Metulla 54, Migdal 73 Ari 61 Mikve of the 65 Min Hateva Misk Stage Bar 47 Abirim 65 Mitzpe Amukah 53 Mitzpe Resort 58 Mitzpe HaYamim 30 Mitzpe Rosh Hanikra Rosh Pina 52 Mizpe Hayamim, 31 Montfort Castle 30, Morel 65 Morganfeld 31 Almagor 42 Moshav Moshav Beit She'arim 35 Moshav Dishon 56 Moshav Hayogev 35 57 Ben Zimra Moshav Kerem Moshav Kfar Kisch 71 Moshav Liman 31 Moshav Livnim 45 Moshav Ramot Naftali 58 34 Ya’acov Moshav Sede Moshav Shavey Zion 28 52 Yashuv Moshav She’ar Alsheikh 63 Moshe 63 Moshe Cordovero 62, 66 Mount Canaan 52, 17 Mukhraka 52 Muscat Restaurant 19 Aliya Museum of the First N Nabali 71 Naftali Range 56 Naftaly Estate Boutique Hotel 58 17 Yagur Nahal 49 Naharayim 50 47, Nazareth 46, Nechalim 53 Nesher 17 K 56 National Park Kadesh 50 Guest House Karei Deshe Naftali 57 Keren 55 Kfar Blum Kayaks 54 Kfar Gil’adi, Center 71 Visitors Kfar Kisch 40 Tavor Kfar 27 Khan el-Umdan Adamit 30 Kibbutz 91 Adamit 90, Kibbutz Ihud 49 Ya’acov Ashdot Kibbutz Aleph 49 Kibbutz Deganyah 49 Kibbutz Ein Gev 42, 38 Kibbutz Ein Harod 36, Kibbutz Ginosar 44 Kibbutz Hagoshrim 52 Kibbutz Kabri 30 Kibbutz Kfar Blum 55 49 Kibbutz Kinneret 45, Kibbutz Merhavia 36 20 Kibbutz Nahsholim 14, 14 Yam Kibbutz Sedot 17 Yagur Kibbutz 57 Yir’on Kibbutz Kimmel Bagilboa 37 48 Valley Kinnrot 56 Shemona 52, Kiryat Knights Hall 26 Hostel & Guest Youth Knight House 28 50 43, Korazim Ktse Hanahal 45 L Levona Grove 42 Limousine 35 M Ma'agan Michael 81 Baruch 54 Ma’yan Spa 38 Touch Magic Maimonides (Rambam) 41 Ranch 14 Makura Cable Car 54 Manara 42 Marinado Restaurant Maximillan 61 Megiddo 34

94 Index 95 Index Seuda Began Eden 52 Began Eden Seuda 46 Shababik 61 60, 5, Shabbat 91 90, Sharach 18 Shuni Fortress 64 62, Yohai Simeon Bar 79 78, Yohai Simeon Bar 54 Tour Singing Souri 71 35 Farm Way Spicy 40 Tiberias Church, St Peter's Sudfeh 47 64 Synagogue of Peki’in T 73 Tabgah 34 Tabor Aviv 4 Tel 54 Dan 52, Tel 36 Yizrael Tel 27 Tunnel Templar Boutique Hotel 24 Templars 50 44, 43, 41, 40, Tiberias Winery 19 Tishbi 46 Tishreen Tmarim Plus 44 Rope 55 Top citadel 26 Turkish 49 Restaurant Tamar Tzel U Ugata Cafe 49 23 University of Haifa 16, 60, 59, 58, Upper Galilee 52, 90, 66 87, 65, 64, 63, 62, 61, 91 Uri Buri 27 17 Usfiya V HaGalil 50 Vered 50 HaGalil Guest Farm Vered Carmel Boutique Hotel 24 Villa 58 Tehila Villa Gallery 53 Vision W Winter Lupines 40 O Synagogue 18 Yaakov Ohel 26 Okashi Museum P 52 Pausa 64 Pekei'n 65 64, Peki’in Phoenician city of Dor 14 House 43 Pilgrim’s House Pinhas and Gaston Guest 28 Pisan Harbor 27 Pub Gosh 52 Pundak Hajachnun 34 R 63 Beirav Ya’acov Rabbi Rainbow Cave 30 Ramat Hanadiv 18 35 Yishai Ramat Ramim Cliff 81 26 Walk Ramparts 56 Rihaniya Winery 57 Rimon 45 Roberg Restaurant 15 Theatre Roman 31 30, 29, Rosh Hanikra 5 Rosh Hanikra 58 55, 53, Rosh Pina 52, Rothschild Mansion 24 S 65 Restaurant Safa’s 9 Safed 5, 66 63, 62, 61, 60, Safed 57, Safed 75 Safta Gamila 65 Sasa 62 50 Tiberias Scots Hotel, 42, 41, 40, Sea of Galilee 39, 50 49, 48, 47, 46, 45, 44, 43, 43 Trail Sea of Galilee Neve Hagar 38 Neve Hagar 24 Neve Shaanan of Mechanical Nisco Museum 15 Music Y 45 Yardenit 49 45, Yarmukh 89 88, Yiftah Canyon 88 Yiftah Winery 35 Yiftah’el Centre 44 Allon Yigal Z 19 13 18, 5, Ya’acov Zichron

96 Index י

T R I L O G Y

V O L U M E

ה ן ל Trilogy Volume I ל ת North Centre South ן

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