8TRAVEL

Empires have fought over ’s picturesque Dalmatian region. Today, its lesser-know islands are still free of mass tourism, writes Kathryn Tomasetti Forever and a bay

edged between rugged resort’s panoramic vistas sweep itself, we make our way to the Hotel The waters that lap ’ 40 or so Balkan peaks and the over the Elaphite Islands opposite. Odisej. As the only hotel situated bays are arguably the clearest in the , Croatia’s Just three of this nearby cluster of within the park, the Odisej’s location region. Its unspoiled shores bask in southern region of 14 islands are inhabited – Kolocep, makes it perfect for trekkers and more than 2,700 hours of sunshine WDalmatia has a history of capturing and Sipan. Their permanent cyclists, with easy access to the each year, making it the sunniest visitors’ hearts. Roman, Venetian, residents number a meagre 850. nearby trails. place in Croatia. So far, mass French and Austrian empires have Kolocep is the closest, Sipan is the For the low-key adventurer, tourism has passed by this delightful laid claim to these alluring lands. largest and Lopud, say the locals, is smooth paved walkways loop little island. Roman emperor Diocletian built his the loveliest. around much of Veliko Jezero and Vis town is wrapped around a shimmering marble retirement Tiny Lopud is entirely car-free. Malo Jezero, the park’s two lakes. natural harbour, spliced by the mansion in Split, one of central As the ferry from ’s Gruz More ambitious athletes can hire picturesque Prirovo peninsula. We Dalmatia’s most sheltered bays. harbour putters into Lopud’s only colourful kayaks at Mali Most, the consider renting bicycles to explore So desirable was Dubrovnik that settlement, the sleepy island slim bridge that separates the two the shores. the city has been ringed by instantly enchants. bodies of water. But we soon find that Vis town defensive stone walls since the Pale stone facades and an and the fishing village of Komiza, eighth century – fortifications that ancient monastery dot the seafront the settlements that bookend this are still in place today. promenade, backed by towering 10-kilometre island, are linked by Croatia’s most popular Unesco palms that rustle in the breeze. two very different roads. World Heritage site, Dubrovnik Children splash in the shallows, The first, built by the Austrians continues to lure visitors by the while a few tourists dine on Lopud, known as the 200 years ago, snakes along Vis’ boatload. Each summer, traditional buzzara, a dish of loveliest island, is southern belly, running flat through Clockwise from main photo: Stiniva Cove, passengers from up to 10 daily cruise mussels doused in a tomato, vineyards. The second road was Vis Island; Sun Gardens Hotel in Dubrovnik; ships crowd the city’s smooth garlic and white wine sauce. Two entirely car-free. The constructed by Yugoslav engineers stone houses on the waterfront on Vis. marble streets. elders linger in the shade, sipping sleepy settlement five decades ago. It bumps up and Photos: Kathryn Tomasetti Travellers flock to Korcula, Ozujsko beer. down across the steep mountains at whose inhabitants claim it is We hike through citrus orchards, instantly enchants the centre of the island. Wanting to Marco Polo’s birthplace. There’s hip pine and carob trees, reaching the see both these routes we hire a zippy , too: its A-list guests include tawny cove of Sunj after little more 50cc scooter instead. Brad Pitt, George Clooney and than half an hour. Much of our time on is Cutting through Vis’ interior, we Prince Harry, and it is frequently Croatia isn’t known for its sandy spent hiking. A canopy of pine pass olive groves and fruit orchards. voted one the world’s most beaches. In fact, tiny pebbles and provides shade from the summer Panoramic vistas spill out onto gorgeous islands. irregular seams of chunky rock line sun. Entrance to the park includes a Komiza, before curling inland. Yet Dalmatia possesses countless most of this country’s shores. return boat ride to Sveta Marija, a We end the day at Pojoda, voted islands that most people have never But Sunj’s bay is fringed by soft 12th-century Benedictine the region’s best restaurant at the heard of. More than 1,000 lesser- puffs of sand. It’s said that if you monastery perched on a petite Dalmatia Wine Expo last year. known islands lie off Croatia’s swim here with your loved one, the island in Veliko Jezero, where we The island’s historical lack of coastline, joining to create an two of you are bound together for spend a lazy afternoon scrambling tourists translates into a traditional emerald necklace floating its way eternity. Romantics at heart, we among the ruins. Come nightfall, cuisine that has remained undiluted out into the Adriatic Sea. This spend the rest of the afternoon the friendly tavern Konoba Kiko for many decades. summer, I set out to explore a few of dipping in and out of the sea. dishes up octopus salad served with On Pojoda’s stone terrace, we Dalmatia’s most secret gems. The following day we hop aboard slivers of onions, smoky grilled squid sample pojorski bronzinic (lentil, Keen on losing Dubrovnik’s aferry to Mljet. A long, skinny shard and piles of garlic-infused chard. barley and squid stew, an island crowds, my husband and I started at of an island, Mljet is close to 40 Legend has it that Calypso speciality) and tiny “grandfather’s the southernmost tip of Croatia, kilometres in length, although it imprisoned Odysseus on Mljet for shrimp” with black pepper. opting to stay 12 kilometres north of rarely measures more than three seven years. I can’t imagine a more Sitting under citrus blossoms, the atmospheric Old Town. kilometres across. Mljet National idyllic place to be kept captive. sipping limoncello made from the Clinging to the rocky coastline, Park is home to two saltwater lakes, Back on the mainland, we zip lemons above, I empathise with the Dubrovnik Sun Gardens boasts an island monastery and hectares northwards to Split and set sail for empires that battled for possession three large swimming pools, an of forest. Vis. A naval base off-limits to of these lands. OCCO Spa and a sprinkling of Passing the town of Polaee’s foreigners until 1989, Vis is a After a week on these shores, international restaurants. But the tumbledown Roman fort, a magical 2½-hour ferry ride straight out into giving them up doesn’t come easy. view is the most enticing thing. The marker that we’ve entered the park the Adriatic blue. [email protected] TRAVEL 9

IN CHARM’S WAY

Eating • Konoba Kiko Pomena 9, Govedari, Mljet; tel: +385 (0) 20 744 074 • Pojoda Don Cvjetka Marasoviæa 8, Kut, Vis; tel: +385 (0) 21 711575

Staying there • Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Na Moru 1, Orašac; dubrovniksungardens.com. Doubles from €180 (HK$1,750). • Hotel Odisej Pomena bb, Govedari, Mljet; alh.hr. Doubles from €67 • Navigator Apartments Vladimira Nazora 48, Vis; apartmani-navigator.com. One-bedroom apartments from €45

Getting around • Jadrolinija (jadrolinija.hr) is Dalmatia’s major ferry operator • G&V Line (gv-line.hr) has faster connections between Dubrovnik and Mljet • Dubrovnik Sun Gardens also organises day cruises to the . Prices start at 290 kuna/HK$376 per person • On Vis, Navigator Tourist Agency (navigator.hr) rents 50cc scooters from 120 kuna for six hours