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April 2017 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY

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Features Technical Discussions TM April 2017 Know Your Value, Part Four Making a Watch from Con- SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY By Michael Gainey, CC21 Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute ception to Finished Product page 10 with Kaj Korpela, Part Four EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES By Henrik Korpela American Watchmakers- CW21 Profile: Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) Justin Harell and Sergio page 22 701 Enterprise Drive Berrios of The Watchmaker’s Harrison, OH 45030 Shop Industry News AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) By Ken Nichols CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE or 513-367-9800 page 16 In Summary Fax 513-367-1414 By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 [email protected] • www.awci.com page 32 www.facebook.com/MyAWCI AWCI News Cover Image: Four black-and-white photographs of Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 President’s Message pocket watch movements created with Executive Director By Fred T. White, CMW21 Education & film and developed and printed in the Ext. 310 [email protected] page 4 Certification darkroom. Donna Hardy Photo credit: Daniel Schloemer Managing Editor Executive Director’s Message AWCI Educational Calendar Ext. 305 [email protected] By Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 page 8 Kathy Ortt page 5 Editor Columns [email protected] Editor's Forum Classifieds Janette Torres-Gomez By Donna Hardy From the Workshop Buy, Sell, Trade, and Graphic Designer & page 6 By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI Employment Opportunities Assistant Technical Support page 35 page 51 Ext. 302 [email protected] Affiliate Chapter News Tom Schomaker, CMW21 page 46 Looking at Options: Advertisers’ Index Watchmaking Instructor Business and Workshop page 54 Ext. 309 [email protected] Practices Survey Rob McLeod By Hannah Mancill Industry Advisory Board Education & Certification Coordinator page 37 Members Ext. 303 [email protected] page 54 Maureen Seals Membership Coordinator & Watchmaking Excellence Technical Support CW21 Standards Ext. 301 [email protected] page 42 HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE Bob Little, CC, CW, Chair Daniel Benson, CMW Paul Corn Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 OUR VISION: Karel Ebenstreit, CMW, CC21 David Fahrenholz AWCI’s vision is to have an educated and passionate horological Dale LaDue, CMW21 community practicing the highest standards and with the resources Hannah Mancill Matt Schloemer, CW21 to provide quality goods and services. Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers OUR MISSION: Institute. Copyright © 2016 by the American Watchmakers- Setting service standards and educating the horological community. Clockmakers Institute. Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers- Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $175.00 per year ($15.00 per copy). Members subscription is $99.00 Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! which is included with annual dues of $175.00. Periodicals www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, Like us on Facebook! Check out our educational videos! 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. www.facebook.com/MyAWCI www.youtube.com/awci/videos 3 a message from the president FRED T. WHITE, CMW21

he midyear has come we can do, so please don’t keep that to yourselves. Tand gone. It is now time I would love to hear from you (email [email protected] to get to work on the things or phone 301-868-7264). Contact me with any ideas your Board of Directors made you have to improve our organization. I know motions to accomplish. If we do some of you will say, “Make parts available,” but not follow up on these motions there are some things we have no control over. Fred T. White [email protected] and put them into action, then When some of these companies realize that they we will be at fault, and we will need us more than we need them, they may release have no one to blame but ourselves. I have challenged parts to us. Until then, continue to do good work the Board of Directors to get to work; all through the and there will always be a job for you to do. When midyear meeting I kept saying, “When it is was the last time you turned down a Take a few all said and done, there is more said than job because of parts? There are ways of done.” Now is the time for action—in other minutes each getting what you need; look for them, words, get to work and do the job you were month to write don’t sit on your hands. elected to do. When you are elected, it is not We are not the only group suffering to your board a glory position; it is a labor position. Talk from the loss of membership, but we can to members, visit members, get input from members. be the one that breaks that mold. It is up them, and then vote how they would like you to vote. to you. How many watchmakers and clockmakers You, as members, should be taking a few minutes do you know who do not belong to AWCI? These each month to write to your board members. Share an people can be your prospects to recruit. It doesn’t idea with them or, better still, talk with them. When take much, just each member bringing on one new was the last time you talked with another member member or convincing an old member to rejoin. I about AWCI, about what you could do to help the or- challenge each one to go find that one member and ganization to grow, or what we all can do to improve sign him or her up. our lot in life? It is your organization, so put a little I would like to know what you would do if you work into it. I learned many years ago that you get out were president of AWCI? How would you go about in proportion to what you put in. You cannot get mon- improving our organization? What educational ey out of your checking account unless you deposit classes would you offer? What are we doing now that first. What have you deposited into AWCI? is relevant or not relevant to your business? In other We are facing a situation where our membership words, help me to help you by improving AWCI for is declining. Some of you may have an answer to what your benefit.

4 April 2017 a message from the JORDAN P. FICKLIN, CW21 executive director

March the Board of remarkable it gets people talking. If you are on social InDirectors gathered in media you probably get bombarded by strings of posts, Harrison, Ohio, for their mid- most of which you pass by. Some of them capture your year meeting. The midyear attention enough for you to pause and read them, or meeting (once called a retreat) is click through and learn more, but only on a few of them two days of grueling meetings do you actually comment. These are the remarkable Jordan P. Ficklin [email protected] where the board members con- posts. Seth Godin describes these remarkable things sider the needs of AWCI mem- as “purple cows.” When you are driving down the road bers and the horological community as a whole and put and you see a cow, you probably don’t stop and take a together a vision for AWCI’s future involvement in the picture. A cow is just a cow. But if that cow is purple, industry. This year was no different. suddenly it gets noticed. You might take a Outside, temperatures dropped and If we want to picture and share it with friends. Risky and there was a dusting of snow, but eight of the exciting moves are what get noticed today. If be successful, nine directors were present. The board dis- AWCI, and possibly each of you, want to get we must be cussed certification, classes, the general state noticed, we will need to be as bold, daring, of the industry, and recent losses of mem- remarkable! and unique as a purple cow. bership, and the consensus was that we need As a professional horologist, what do you to do some big and exciting things. Many ideas were do to get people talking about your business? Word of discussed, and we have begun the process to explore mouth is the most powerful form of advertising, and what it would cost to do some of these “big ideas.” If with social media it is easier than ever for people to you have a big idea, please share it with your Board of talk about your business with their peers. When you do Directors. What are some things that AWCI could do remarkable work you should share that and encourage that would make most horologists want to be active others to do the same. Can you run your business on a members of the institute? unique model that might get you noticed? Is it time to I shared some thoughts with the board based on do what has never been done before? the inspirational messages of author Seth Godin. Mr. Godin writes for business people about how to be So, what will AWCI be doing? successful in promoting their brands, developing new Digital tech guides: We have begun the long-overdue products, and getting noticed. If AWCI, and each of process of scanning the technical documents we have us, want to be successful, we must be remarkable. in the library. If we lined up all of the file drawers Remarkable is an interesting word. It means, “wor- we would have almost 200 feet of documentation. thy of making a remark about.” When something is We are removing the duplicate information and will Continued on p. 34

Horological Times 5 articles, “Making a Watch from Conception to Finished Product E d it o r ’s with Kaj Korpela.” The subtitle Forum of this series is “Watchmaking, Prototyping, and Restoration of Watches.” So, if you have not followed this series because you don’t plan to make your own watch, you might still want to take a look. Henrik always includes a restoration tip that is useful for just about any watchmaker. This month Henrik writes about restoring chipped pallet jewels. We’re also up to part four in Michael Gainey’s series on business, “Know Your Value.” This month Michael discusses some of the in- gredients necessary for a successful business: location, knowledge, skills, and experience. On our cover this month are four black-and-white photographs In Your April HT a QR code, a url, or feel free to of pocket watch movements. send your answers in an email to These photos were created Last month, we started a new [email protected]. We’ll also post with film and developed and column “Looking at Options: a link to the survey on Facebook. printed in the darkroom. Daniel Business and Workshop Practices We have another CW21 Profile. Schloemer, father of member Matt Survey” by Hannah Mancill. Each This time we look at two watch- Schloemer, made these with a column will present a different makers, Justin Harell and his busi- Nikon F100 and a Nikkor 60mm survey for members to take. But ness partner, Sergio Berrios (page f2.8 macro lens. He used Ilford the meat of the column will be the 16). They work together at The HP5, 400 ISO film. To light the fact-driven article Hannah writes Watchmaker’s Shop in Asheville, movements, he used two constant- after she compiles the survey North Carolina, along with their light Westcott 20" softboxes. For results. See page 37 for Hannah’s apprentice, Ryan George, who is our cover, he digitally scanned article on battery selection, storage, in the first class of Lititz Watch the negatives and processed them and disposal; it includes many good Technicum’s (LWT) Dual System in Photoshop Elements. Matt resources. And while you’re there, Apprenticeship program. proudly displays these photos in his take the next survey, which is on We’re up to part four of workshop at Richter & Phillips Co. insurance. It’s accessible through Henrik Korpela’s series of in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Writers for Horological Times can earn between $300 and $875 or more per article. It depends on the length of the article (25 cents per word). Earn a 10% bonus for submitting assigned articles early or on time. If you’d like to write for Horological Times, email [email protected] for guidelines.

6 April 2017 There is no comparison to the classes I’ve taken with“ Tom Schomaker at AWCI. After many years in the industry I was surprised at what I had forgotten over time, and amazed at all that I learned. I’m really glad that I chose to take them. ~Chris Wiles, CW21 ”

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Prices reflect member’s discount! Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests. Class Schedule for 2017 Reserve your spot today. Contact Rob McLeod at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303.

Wisconsin Horological Society Visit us at www.awci.com or follow us on social media for future info. April (WHS) Instructor: Doug Thompson, CW21 21-23 Lake Geneva, Wisconsin

Horological Association of Virginia Michael Gainey, CC21, will be presenting “Servicing the Aging Modern April (HAV) Floor Clock in the Home” and “Know Your Value.” Instructors: Michael Gainey, CC21 and Scott Walters, CW21, will be presenting “Technical Discussion of the Scott Walters, CW21 Dubois-Depraz Modular Chronograph/Servicing the ETA 6497.” 28-30 Charlottesville, Virginia

WATCH 200: $1,095 Become the go-to watchmaker for modern automatics in your area by learning the fundamentals of mechanical automatic watch repair May Modern Automatic Wristwatches that are most prevalent in today’s market. In this class you’ll investi- Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 gate how to perform the various components, cleaning, assembling, 8-12 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio adjustments, dialing, and casing. WATCH 175: 5 CEUs $1,350 Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. This course is May Case & Bracelet Refinishing perfect for the watchmaker or dedicated refinisher. It will help you (includes polishing kit) achieve the different finishes on modern watch cases. Also covered is Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 disassembly and assembly of common watch cases. 15-19 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio WATCH 240: $1,095 This intense five-day course will help you refine your adjusting skills. June Servicing the Lever Escapement The course covers all of the adjustments for the Swiss lever escape- Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 ment, hairspring, and balance. Also covered is the ETAChron system. 12-16 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio $499 Servicing the Aging Modern This three-day class focuses on repairs to the modern floor clock June Floor Clock in the Home movement that can be completed in the home as well as determin- NAWCC National Convention ing when the clock needs to go to the shop. Check our website for Instructor: Michael Gainey, CC21 more details: www.awci.com/classes 26-28 Sheraton Arlington Hotel, Arlington, Texas WATCH 350: 5 CEUs $1,095 July Intermediate Micromechanics Take your lathe skills to the next level with this new course. Check The Watchmaker’s Lathe II our website for more details: www.awci.com/classes Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 10-14 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Watchmaker’s Association of Ohio July (WAO) Jim Lubic, CMW21, is teaching a class on using the jewelers lathe on Instructors: Jim Lubic, CMW21 and Friday, July 14th. Tom Schomaker, CMW21, will be teaching a class Tom Schomaker, CMW21 on Watch Estimating on Saturday, July 15th. 14-15 Sugar Grove, Ohio

WATCH 100: $750 This class is perfect for anyone thinking about entering the profession of watchmaking or the individual who wants to gain a better appreciation for July Introduction to Watchmaking the art of watchmaking. Learn basic skills and techniques used by the modern Instructor: Aaron Recksiek, CW21 watchmaker. Before attending, students are recommended to study Theory 17-21 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio of Horology and be familiar with the basic nomenclature of watchmaking.

For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: http://www.awci.com/classes or contact Rob McLeod, Education & Certification Coordinator, at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), x303. For additional calendar events visit: http://www.awci.com/calendar.

8 April 2017 To help you prepare for the exam, please July $2,495 visit our watchmaker preparation page and CW21 Exam the study aids page. www.awci.com/education-certification/certification/ 24-28 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio watchmaker-preparation/watchmaker-study-guides/

WATCH 210: $1,095 Expand what you know to increase your profit! Quartz watches can be one of the most profitable sectors of your August Quartz & Quartz Chronograph business. This course reviews quartz watch repair and quartz Service Procedures & Diagnostics chronographs, including the various important electronic 14-18 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 tests, giving you the skills you need to be faster and more AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio consistent at servicing quartz watches.

WATCH 230: $1,095 Build on what you know in this course by investigating the verification and analysis of the escapement function, poising (static and dynamic), September Balance Staffing & Timing truing, and timing adjustment in a mechanical watch, cutting out a Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 balance staff on a lathe, adjusting the balance staff, and removing the 11-15 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio balance staff from Glucydur balances with the Horia tool.

WATCH 220: 5 CEUs $1,095 Brush up on your chronograph skills before taking the CW21 Exam September Modern Mechanical Chronograph― with this class on the modern mechanical chronograph. It focuses ETA 7750 on the service and adjustment of modern mechanical chronographs, 18-22 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 such as the ETA 7750. AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio October AWCI Annual Convention & Visit us at www.awci.com or follow us on social media for future info. Educational Symposium 4-8 Tampa, Florida

WATCH 175: 5 CEUs $1,350 Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. This course is October Case & Bracelet Refinishing perfect for the watchmaker or dedicated refinisher. It will help you (includes polishing kit) achieve the different finishes on modern watch cases. Also covered is Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 disassembly and assembly of common watch cases. 9-13 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Feature: Know Your Value, Part Four: Ingredients for a Successful Business/Location, Knowledge, Skills & Experience KNOW YOUR VALUE

Part Four: Ingredients for a Successful Business/ By Michael Gainey, CC21 Location, Knowledge, Skills & Experience

the first three parts of this series we spent consumer. Now that we have established that con- In a great deal of time talking about how the cept in parts one through three of this series, we can knowledge, skills, and experience of horologists move on. should directly correspond to their incomes. A “rule In part four, I want to begin to share the things of business” goes something like this: “If you are I believe are necessary for a “successful” business. not losing 25% of your work due to price, you are Naturally, the word “successful” can be defined in not charging enough.” There is some truth to this, many ways. For my purpose, I am referring to a clock but my goal is not to encourage those with less than or watch repair shop that has obtained a stellar rep- adequate repair skills to simply keep increasing their utation by performing professional quality repair, is prices. By tying skill to income, we assure fairness able to maintain a steady flow of work, and produces in the marketplace by providing “true value” to the an above-average income for the owner.

My shop is in a building next to my home. I make my shop as attractive and professional-looking as I can, so that when customers approach my door 10 they feel confident their clock will getApril expert 2017 care. Location and also fewer repairable clocks! Your problem real- As I listed these “ingredients for success,” I was ly isn’t that people won’t pay; your problem is there tempted to list them in order of importance, but I simply are not enough people who really want their have determined that in many ways they are all equal- clocks fixed. You may say it doesn’t matter if the end ly important. If you are significantly deficient in any result is the same, but it does make a difference in of these areas, your level of success will also be limit- how you see it. It affects your attitude toward your ed. However, you can have the very best skill, a great customers. As stated earlier, when there isn’t much image, excellent business knowledge, and a marketing work coming in, you tend to price your jobs lower for plan, but if you do not have a large enough customer fear of losing the job. I have many customers coming base to draw from, you will not attract enough repair from rural areas surrounding my city that are willing work to earn the highest level of income. Therefore, to pay my rates for clock repair. In fact, I have been one of the most important ingredients is your loca- in many homes where it was obvious they had better tion. I am not talking about your specific street ad- things to spend their money on than a clock or clock dress. Since properly trained and skilled horologists repair. However, they pay the same rate as my more are hard to find, most discriminating clock and watch affluent customers. owners are willing to make an effort to get to you So, let’s look at this from a different perspec- wherever you might be. However, it is best if you are tive. With the exception of the few cities that have in or near a large population center. Unless you want very high costs of living, most items that are sold are to focus on a “through the mail” repair service (easier not sold at different prices depending on where you for watches than clocks), you need to be within easy live. For instance, Amazon’s prices are the same no driving distance of a large population. The largest matter where you live. Additionally, manufactured percentage of your customers are likely to come from items like cars, trucks, motorcycles, household ap- within a 50-mile radius of your location. To earn your pliances, and TVs basically sell for the same amount best income, you need a large number of repairs com- no matter where they are sold. Certainly, overhead ing in the door. can play a part, but the difference in price is usually When talking about increasing earnings through a few percentage points, not the difference of some- higher prices, I often hear comments like, “I can’t thing costing twice as much in one area and half as charge that amount here; people just won’t pay it.” much in another. People have told me they cannot These comments typically come from people living in sell a job for $200 that I can sell for $500! Chevrolet small towns, most often rural areas. Rural areas mean doesn’t say, “They just won’t pay that in this city, so fewer people spread across a larger area. In these lo- we have to lower our prices.” Do the people living cales, there are fewer people with disposable income in rural areas expect to buy their cars at half price?

Horological Times 11 Feature: Know Your Value, Part Four: Ingredients for a Successful Business/Location, Knowledge, Skills & Experience

Of course not. Some would say that people need cars doable, it usually involves considerable expense. and appliances, but they do not have to have their There is also a certain amount of stress involved watch or clock repaired. True, but people buy many in re-establishing yourself both professionally and things they do not “have to have.” Who “needs” socially in a new community. However, if you are diamonds, designer clothes, or large, expensive just entering the trade, you should spend some time trucks when cubic zirconia, plain blue jeans, and thinking about this aspect of business before put- a stripped-down truck will get the job done? The ting down roots. point is they will spend the money that is required to get what they “want.” Knowledge, Skills, and Experience The last consideration I want to discuss is your Knowledge “specific” location within your area. Where you op- Although I have addressed this topic in each of the erate your business will have a large impact on your previous articles, it is so critical that it is worth ex- expenses, and your expenses will have a large impact panding upon. How much do you really know? How on your bottom line. You can be located in a high- much training have you exposed yourself to? What rent area in a special part of town or a smaller suburb have you done to invest in yourself? Very few of us are of a large city. You can also be located in a shopping as good as we think we are. When we isolate ourselves mall, strip mall, an office space in an industrial park, in our own little corner of the repair world “doing or even your home. Each of these locations creates our thing,” we are often unaware of the knowledge a different level of expense. Seven of the nine clock that we are missing. I was blessed to receive my initial repair shops in or near my town of Columbus, Ohio, training through a five-year, full-time apprenticeship operate from within or next to their homes. Finding and a total of 14 years of on-the-job training and ex- an easy-to-access location is certainly helpful, but perience. Even though I was confident that my ap- if your reputation is strong enough, discriminating prenticeship training provided me with a great deal of clock or watch owners will make an effort to find skill and knowledge, soon after establishing my own you wherever you are. Once you establish your loca- shop I decided that there must be more to learn. I tion, you should do all you can to make it as attrac- received quite a few “wakeup calls” when I became tive as possible to your customers as they approach active with the Education Committee at AWCI. As your front door. we were drafting the Standards and Practices docu- Although location could be considered “most ment for clockmakers, four other clockmakers from important,” it is also the variable most difficult to across the United States and I sat in a room discussing change. It is likely you already have roots holding various repair techniques. The point was to compare you to your current location. Very few are willing and contrast as well as determine what techniques to move for greater opportunity. Although pulling were most effective, durable, and artful in their execu- up stakes and moving to another city or state is tion. During many days of conversation, I discovered

12 April 2017 At the front counter of my shop where several things that I had been taught previously I take in work, I display my certification and certification letter with test scores, were considered improper techniques, and other along with an appreciation certificate. repair procedures needed some enhancement to refine their outcomes. If your education has come from only one source, you are likely missing out on information that could benefit you. After 14 years working on clocks, I must ad- mit that previous to taking my first class I was skeptical as to whether there would be any new knowledge gleaned from my participation. I was pleased to see that I already knew much of what was being taught, but I was more pleased to walk out of the classroom with many new concepts to add If your to my “toolbox” of knowledge education and skill. Taking that first class has come opened up a whole new world. from only For the first time in my career, I met and talked with others one source, in the trade. That first class you are likely was in 1995. Since then, I have missing out on attended 13 national AWCI con- information ventions and 22 Watchmakers/ that could Clockmakers Association of Ohio (WAO) conventions. I have either benefit you. taken or taught a class at each of these conventions. Between travel, hotels, reg- istration, and class fees, I estimate I have invested over $30,000 in my continuing education, not to mention money that I was not able to earn while away from my shop. One of the most meaningful classes I took was “Organize Your Work Habits for Success,” taught by Bob Ockenden, CMC, in 2001. During that

Horological Times 13 Feature: Know Your Value, Part Four: Ingredients for a Successful Business/Location, Knowledge, Skills & Experience

class, he inspired me to “up my game” by taking the tice makes perfect.” Practicing something the wrong Clockmaker’s Certification test. This class was a life way does not help you in the long run. This is why changer for me, as it set a series of events in motion knowledge is our first step. Some skills should not be that brought me to where I am today. Not long after practiced on customers’ clocks or watches. You need that class, and a great deal of preparation, I took the to spend time on junk movements or parts until you test and passed with high scores. gain the confidence necessary to apply the skill ex- During my first AWCI national convention, I pertly on your customers’ merchandise. Working full- re-connected with Bob Ockenden and asked him time repairing a thousand or more clocks or watches to introduce me to other AWCI members. The first a year will also increase your skill as you continue to person he introduced me to was Jerry Faier. Jerry is perform the same tasks over and over, becoming in- likely one of the most knowledgeable clockmakers creasingly efficient. Seeing a large number of clocks in the country and was soon to be with different problems enhances the head of the previously men- The biggest your problem-solving skills. tioned AWCI Education Commit- factor in tee. Because I had obtained the Experience Clockmaker’s Certification, Jerry success is often Knowledge gives you the founda- invited me to join that committee, your personal tion to hone your skills. Practicing where I spent seven years helping investment those skills increases your experi- draft the Standards and Practices of time and ence, which leads to efficiency and document for clockmakers, re-writ- effort—not the confidence. Efficiency is important ing the certification test, and train- because you can be very good at ing to be a test assessor. Even after money you what you do, but if it takes you three 39 years in the trade, I still con- invest. days to perform an expert repair sider Jerry and Bob my mentors and that many others complete in four have wonderful relationships to this day with all the or five hours, you will not earn as much as the effi- Education Committee members. cient person. As you gain experience and efficiency, your confidence grows. Therefore, it’s easier for you Skills to quote a professional fee for a professional repair. Jerry Faier is fond of saying “Skills pay bills.” Howev- Naturally, I am drawing a great deal from my own er, skills also pay for nice cars, vacations, hobbies, re- experience in writing these articles—not to be boast- tirement funds, and the ability to attend conventions. ful but to provide a potential benchmark to evalu- When you begin to put your knowledge to use, you ate your own experience. I am sure there are many develop your skills. We have all heard the cliché “prac- out there earning a better income with more skills, tice makes perfect.” The truth is that “perfect prac- more experience, and more training than I have. My

14 April 2017 desire for more knowledge will never end. The biggest small amount of work that you are limiting your factor in success is often your personal investment experience? How much effort are you making to be of time and effort—not the money you invest. These the best you can be? All clockmakers and watch- two are related, of course; but it really comes down makers cannot possibly be worth the same. Assum- to motivation, drive, and love of the craft. ing that more knowledge and skill make a more So, ask yourself where you fit “skill wise” among valuable horologist, what are you doing to improve your peers. Are you just getting started or have you in these areas? been doing it for decades? Have you been applying In part five, I will continue our discussion of yourself in a way that will accelerate your learning? ingredients for a successful business. Have you limited your income by limiting your knowledge and skill? Are you performing such a Michael Gainey is the owner and operator of Master Clock Repair in Columbus, Ohio. He frequently teaches classes and workshops on clock repair.

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Horological Times 15 Feature: CW21 Profile: Justin Harell and Sergio Berrios of The Watchmaker’s Shop CW21 PROFILE: JUSTIN HARELL AND SERGIO BERRIOS OF THE WATCHMAKER’S SHOP By Ken Nichols

Sherlock Holmes and Watson or Batman and Robin are fictitious duos of literature and TV, but Justin and Sergio are a duo of certified watchmakers who are known around The Watchmaker’s Shop in Asheville, North Carolina.

Pictured in the work area of their shop are (left to right) Justin Harell, CW21, and Sergio Berrios, CW21.

ustin Harell is the owner of The Watchmaker’s JShop and Sergio Berrios is Justin’s business partner and fellow watchmaker. Their paths first intersected at Lititz Watch Technicum in Lititz, Pennsylvania, and now they operate their new service

center in a town that the New York Times called, “a mountain-ringed and progressively minded city View of the storefront located in the historical renowned for its creative spirit.” Grove Arcade in Asheville, North Carolina.

16 April 2017 Justin was raised in Tennessee and studied com- Justin wasn’t at A.H. Riise long before their other puter mechanics but was drawn to watches at first by watchmaker from Austria had to leave. “All of a sud- the family jewelry business his grandfather started den I was by myself,” Justin said. Not long after that, in the 70s. This initial exposure to the business led Sergio joined him after he received his Lititz diploma to a more formal introduction while he worked at in 2008 along with the WOSTEP and CW21 certifi- Gabrielle Ferrar jewelry store in California. That is cations. “We were there to support sales just as much where a watchmaker gave him an idea of what the as service watches,” he said. work was like. Eventually, an ad in a magazine pointed This casual island culture was a change from the Justin to Lititz. “I applied and when I started, I really training at Lititz. “We were taught this from the first was a blank slate,” Justin said. “The director of the day in school, and we showed up at class in a shirt and school, Herman, would say it was good that I was a tie every day,” Justin said. “It was something that was blank slate because it’s better to have no bad habits.” preached all the time.” Sergio was born in Oklahoma in a military family Like one would expect, the island lifestyle is laid and moved around as a kid. “My dad and I always back and expensive, and after a year Justin decided to worked on cars together, and I was intrigued by how open his own service center in Asheville, which was mechanical things worked from a young age,” Sergio known to have a similar St. Thomas tempo. Sergio and said. It was this background and working part-time his family decided to support the entrepreneurial en- for Scott Heisler at Orlando Watch Company that deavor a few years later and they moved to town too. prompted him to leave college and apply to Lititz. Their new service center is located on the west Justin and Sergio met in class in 2006 and quickly side of the Grove Arcade in downtown Asheville. The developed a friendship. building was conceived to be a massive but elegant Justin graduated in 2007 with a Lititz diploma, retail center with five stories of retail, office, and living and WOSTEP and CW21 certifications and contin- spaces when it opened in 1929. It changed over the ued his training on the Rolex caliber 4130 at Lititz years, but is now on the National Register of Historic and caliber 4160 in Geneva, Switzerland. He was em- Places due to the collaboration efforts of its citizens. ployed as the Rolex technician at A.H. Riise, the of- This creative and collaborative spirit can be seen ficial Rolex retailer in the US Virgin Islands, where in the people and how they approach their lives, Justin met his future wife. according to Justin. “Quality of life and low stress

Horological Times 17 Feature: CW21 Profile: Justin Harell and Sergio Berrios of The Watchmaker’s Shop

are really important in Asheville,” Justin explained. Their service center is on the ground floor and “There might be a guy driving by in a 1988 Toyota offers two large windows of daylight into their service Camry, and you wouldn’t know he was a millionaire. area. In the back of the same room is the timing area There’s not a lot of pressure to keep up with the with a new Witschi X1 timing machine with the Mi- neighbors next door.” cromat C microphone. “This is what brought me to Asheville,” Justin Sergio placed Justin’s watch on the machine to said. “My plan is to invest in our business now so we show how it worked. “It has a special program that have a long-term plan for our future. I want to do the also measures Swatch’s co-axial escapement too,” same thing for the watchmakers’ industry.” Sergio explained. “This machine automates the “Our business philosophy is to be honest with process now, where we had to manually monitor and our customers and take time to educate them,” Justin wait between each stabilization period. That time said. “We want to show them the difference between added up over the course of the day.” Sergio also used a watch that’s serviced properly and those that aren’t. the demonstration to joke with his partner about how I really don’t have to talk poorly about other brands to his watch was out of tolerance. accomplish that.” Their training and philosophy pays off on the days when they are helping customers. “I have had some ‘A-ha’ moments when I open a customer’s watch and wonder how it is still running with all that dirt inside. When I was at Lititz, if I saw one piece of lint in the

case, I’d have to redo it over and over again,” Justin Workspace for case opening and closing, and storage area for parts and tools. said. “I was taught to look for small things like this.” Starting up a new business with this philosophy was no small thing since there were significant invest- ments in time and money. Justin explained, “I was resistant to spending money on equipment at first, and every time I did it made my job easier, my life View of water-testing easier, and my work more productive. This quality of equipment, quartz- testing equipment, life is really important to me.” and microscope.

18 April 2017 They have also invested in an ACS 900 cleaning Their approach to customers and equipment also machine and a Schaublin 70 lathe. “We are excited shows up in their working relationship. “We cross- about the lathe since it represents a chance to get cre- check ourselves a lot, and this fact checking helps us ative at machining parts,” Sergio said. “We don’t get keep a positive environment,” Sergio said. “I would an opportunity most of the time, and we do not want say we are like brothers since we are love-hate at to lose those skills.” times. Still, Justin is very open to suggestions, and we eventually see the same thing, but just differ as to how we get there.” Their collaboration and relationship could be a formula for future watchmakers with equal parts skill, entrepreneurship, and friendship. I asked them if their relationship was like Batman and Robin. With- out missing a beat, Justin said he would be Batman, but Sergio jumped in and said, “Nope! I think it’s like Homer and Bart Simpson, and I’m Bart.” That long-running animation series, which made fun of any and all things, might not exemplify the Lititz-trained professional, but some suggest the ficti- tious family offers examples of people who, at the end

Greiner Vibrograf ACS 900. of the day, keep showing up as a family. I asked if this might be an odd metaphor, but Ser- Schaublin 70 lathe. gio explained, “There’s tension in their relationship, but also a lot of respect.” Sergio said, “And, at any minute Homer can grab Bart’s neck and throttle him, but he doesn’t. Justin is like that with me too.”

Editor’s Note: To learn more about Justin Harell, Sergio Berrios, and their shop, go to www.thewatchmakersshop.com. To learn about the Lititz Dual System Apprenticeship and Ryan George, their apprentice, read the sidebar that accompanies this article. Photos courtesy of the Watchmaker’s Shop.  Horological Times 19 Feature: CW21 Profile: Justin Harell and Sergio Berrios of The Watchmaker’s Shop

The Watchmaker’s Shop Employs Apprentice from Lititz Dual

Ryan George, center, with Sergio Berrios, right, System Program and Urs Häni of Witschi, left. Ryan attended the 2016 AWCI convention with Justin Harell and Sergio Berrios of The Watchmaker’s Shop. By Ken Nichols Photo by Ken Nichols

This year, the Lititz Watch Technicum will see its learning,” Ryan said. “I think it has seen eight to ten first class of students graduate from its Dual System watchmaking students in this house over the years, Apprenticeship program at the Rolex-sponsored and it could be a watchmakers’ fraternity house if we school in Lititz, Pennsylvania. wanted it to be.” Ryan George, from The Watchmaker’s Shop in “We don’t have too much homework when we Asheville, North Carolina, is one of the first students leave at the end of the two weeks,” Ryan said. “They to be handpicked for this new program in 2015. The seem to know that our employer will have plenty program is another way the industry tries to meet of work for us when we get back. When I’m back the demand for watchmakers. “There are four of us in Asheville and I have a question about what I’m in the class,” Ryan said. “I love what I’m doing in this learning, instead of calling the school, I slide my chair program.” over and ask Sergio or Justin.” The program is unique compared to other schools Ryan’s passion for repairing things was a perfect in the US. Lititz calls it a dual system education since fit for the unique relationship that Justin and Sergio it relies on its formal classroom education along have established. The dual system program is tuition- with the on-the-job work at the apprentice’s service free for individuals who are considered qualified, center. In this case, Ryan relies on Justin Harell and and the mentor must have the technical skills to help Sergio Berrios. the student become a watchmaker. After successful The three-year program is divided into four, 14-day completion of the 2,000-hour program, the students sessions each year. Each day is 12 hours long starting graduate with a Lititz Watch Technicum diploma at 6:30 a.m. and includes Saturday and Sunday. “When as well as SAWTA (Swiss American Watchmakers I finish a two-week period, I am tired, but I am very Training Alliance) certification. excited about what I’m learning,” Ryan said. The small town of Lititz was voted America’s Editor’s note: To learn more about SAWTA, visit the following Coolest Small Town by Budget Travel in 2013. With link. http://lititzwatchtechnicum.org/sawta-the-curriculum/ a population less than 10,000 and six miles from the next largest town of Lancaster, its remoteness makes it a good place to concentrate, according to Ryan. Ken Nichols is a freelance writer and photographer who “I live in a house with other watchmaking students lives with his wife, three girls, vintage Airstream, and during my two-week stays, which makes it great at the humble watch collection. He works with people in end of the day to get ideas and talk about what I’m corporate HR in the South. https://about.me/ken

20 April 2017 Having your CW21 After getting my • Demonstrates your high level of expertise to certification,“ I hold your customers. • Elevates your store above the competition. myself to a higher • Gives your customers confidence in the standard. It raised my superior service you provide. • Enhances the brands you carry and pro- professionalism to motes both your reputation and integrity. another level. Invest in yourself by taking your skills to ” the next level, and becoming a Certified Watchmaker (CW21). Call or email our Education & Certification Coordinator today for more information: [email protected] Scott Walters, CW21 Phone: 1-866-367-2924, ext 303

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Horological Times 21 Technical Discussion: Making a Watch from Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela, Part Four Making a Watch from Kaj Korpela Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela Watchmaking, Prototyping, and Restoration of Watches PART FOUR

By Henrik Korpela

the same time period as making gear train Figure 1. Swiss Lever Escapement Inparts, as covered in part three of this article series, Kaj also worked on the escapement, which is what we will cover in this part. Since the escapement is a very involved subject, we cannot cover it in depth here. We can only cover the making of the lever itself to get an idea how to approach the design of a Swiss lever escapement. The escape wheel and roller making will be part of another article. While we are on the subject of escapements, I will also give you a practical tip on how to restore chipped pallets. Restoring chipped pallet jewels is not too difficult. It’s a quick job when you are organized. Once you know how to do it, you can include it in your regular restoration work. Kaj decided to use a Swiss lever escapement (SLE) for his watch because it has proven to be very reliable for wristwatches. The advantages of using the SLE compared to other escapements, such as the English lever escapement, is that its teeth are much more robust (with impulse planes) and are larger at the ends

22 April 2017 than those of the English lever, which has pointed unequal unlocking force between entry and exit with teeth ends that are much more delicate and lack the entry being more difficult to unlock than the exit. impulse planes. All impulse would be on the pallets, The semi-equidistant configuration is a compromise and the pointed teeth could not retain oil as well as between the two, reducing the inequality of impulse the impulse planes of the SLE escape wheel teeth. and unlocking problems.3 Kaj chose to have the semi- Another advantage is that the SLE has only 1° to 2° equidistant configuration. drop instead of the approximately 3° drop for the Kaj now needed to choose the size of the pallet English lever. The disadvantage of the SLE is that it’s fork. The choice was affected by several factors, such harder to make the parts, especially the escape wheel as the size of the balance, escape wheel, and roller, with its club teeth.1 and the available space.4 For Kaj, this depended Once Kaj had chosen which escapement type to mainly on the size of the balance, which depended use in his movement, he needed to decide which pallet on the size of the tourbillon cage, which in turn configuration to choose. There are three different ones depended on the available space in the movement. to choose from: equidistant locking, semi-equidistant It also depended to some degree on personal choice configuration, or equidistant acting radii.2 The semi- and what he believed would be a good size, drawing equidistant configuration is a configuration between from previous experiences dealing with escapements the equidistant locking and equidistant acting radii as a watchmaker. configurations. The advantage of the equidistant When the type, configuration, and dimensions locking is that the unlocking force is equal on entry of the escapement had been established, Kaj started and exit pallets. The disadvantage is that the impulse is to draw the escapement with his own modifications, stronger on the exit pallet than the entry pallet because trying to make it as efficient as possible with the least the radius of action is larger on the exit side, since the amount of disturbance to the oscillator while still exit arm is further displaced from the pivoting point making sure it was stable for wrist wear. of the lever than the entry arm. It will also be more For example, Kaj had to think about drop, which unbalanced than other configurations, such as the is considered to be a loss of energy. However, without equidistant acting radii, which have equal impulse on it, the escapement cannot function. It is not, however, entry and exit pallets with the disadvantage of having advisable to make the drop less than 1° for the SLE.

1. Charles Huguenin, Samuel Guye, Maurice Gauchat, FET-Neuchâtel, Echappements et moteurs pas à pas 3. Huguenin et al., Echappements et moteurs pas à pas, 54-55. (1974), 53-54. 4. Henry B. Fried, The Watch Escapement (1974), 42-43. 2. Charles-Andre Reymondin, Georges Monnier, Didier Jeanneret, Umberto Pelaratti, The Theory of Horology (2003), 122.

Horological Times 23 Technical Discussion: Making a Watch from Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela, Part Four

There must be some space for the escape wheel to The second part of this action, the impulse phase reverse its direction caused by the angle of draw of the SLE, is also regarded as a disturbance on during the unlocking phase. You have to leave some the period of oscillation, having a negative effect space for manufacturing tolerances too. The idea is to on isochronism. Keep in mind that the overall keep it as small as possible but preferably not less than effect of the SLE produces a loss on the period 1°. How small it can be made depends on the design of oscillation. We can, therefore, conclude that the and execution of the escapement components.5 lift angle is a necessary evil and should be kept as Each vibration consists of an impulse followed by small as practically possible.8 So, if the lever would drop. During each vibration, the escape wheel advances be able to feed all the necessary energy to maintain 12 degrees (30 impulses per full rotation for an escape the oscillations of the balance and hairspring wheel with 15 teeth). If the drop is 3 degrees, as in instantaneously without contact with the oscillator the English lever, that would represent a 25% loss per (0° lift angle) leaving the balance and hairspring to vibration compared to 2° for an average SLE with a oscillate undisturbed, there would be no negative 17% loss per each vibration because of drop.6 Keeping effect on isochronism from the influence of the the drop as small as possible makes the escapement escapement. Unfortunately, this is clearly not more effective in its distribution of energy to the possible in reality for the SLE. oscillator.7 This is just one example how escapements When Kaj was finished designing and fine may differ from one to the other. Of course, there are tuning his SLE, he lowered the lift angle from 52° many other advantages and disadvantages between (as it was first designed to have) to 45°, a reduction of escapements. In the end, Kaj got a drop of 1° 30′, which 13%—meaning 13% less disturbance on the period is a 12.5% loss on each vibration. of oscillation caused by the escapement during the Another angle Kaj minimized was the total lift impulse phase. The danger in reducing the lift angles angle of the balance and, subsequently, the total lift is that the inertia of escapement components now angle of the pallet fork. This angle represents the has a bigger negative influence, making it also more travel by the balance from the moment the roller sensitive to external influences such as shocks. Less enters the fork horns and unlocks the escapement lift angle means less of a safety margin overall. So, until it exits, having received an impulse in return. if it is not very well executed, it can be hard to get

5. Fried, The Watch Escapement, 14. 8. Fried, The Watch Escapement, 14. 6. Huguenin et al., Echappements et moteurs pas à pas, 53-54. 7. Fried, The Watch Escapement, 14.

24 April 2017 amplitude out of the balance due to disturbances many other parts of the escapement. It is very from the escapement. If you compensate by having a important to make some sort of simulation, as in a lighter balance, the moment of inertia of the balance computerized drawing program with the possibility would be less, which also makes it more sensitive to to move the parts. It is even safer to make large external influences, influencing the rate more. With models based on the exact design. A good start would the modifications that Kaj made, it has been very be to first make large paper models that could be cut reliable in daily wear.9 out to the actual designed shapes and then pinned on The more you fine tune the escapement and a wood or hard paper board with the correct center reduce the lift angle, the more accurately the parts distances.11 The escapement can then be animated have to be made. The friction must be reduced by moving the paper models, and that way possible wherever possible, such as beveling and burnishing errors in the design may be revealed. of escape wheel teeth and inside the notch of the Before Kaj started to design his own SLE, he fork. Sideshakes and other clearances must be kept did some research by comparing many old, and very small, and the escapement parts should be also new, SLE from different movement makers. kept as light as possible to minimize the moment of He found big variances in their designs. The pallet

inertia of the escapement parts, in order to be able forks only look similar. In reality, you can’t simply to reduce the lift angle while still having a stable swap pallet forks from movement to movement and escapement for wrist wear.10 expect them to work in a similar-size watch of a Kaj mostly followed recommendations from different movement.

Echappements et moteur pas à pas, traité de construction Even if you don’t plan to make your own SLE,

Horlogère, and traité de construction horlogère books, it would still be useful to learn to draw it in order to which he took inspiration from when designing his understand it at a deeper level. Henry B. Fried’s book

escapement. He also consulted the books listed in the The Watch Escapement explains, without going into footnotes of this article. too much theory, the step-by-step drawing of the SLE Even though Kaj previously designed the entire with clear illustrations. Since Fried explains it so well, watch, including the escapement, he had to revise the you can learn it quickly. All you need is some paper, escapement design because some angle in the design his book, and maybe a rainy Sunday or two. made it fail. If one angle is wrong, it will influence

9. George Daniels, Watchmaking (2011), 209. 11. Horological Times, March 2017, p. 26, figure 24. 10. Daniels, Watchmaking, 209.

Horological Times 25 Technical Discussion: Making a Watch from Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela, Part Four Procedure to machine the pallet fork

1. When the final design and dimensions Fig. 2 had been established, Kaj started preparing a cylindrical brass holder in the Schaublin 102 lathe to hold the steel (Sandvik 20AP) to make the pallet fork. The steel is fixed with a central pin without play through the staff hole into the brass holder friction fit and having two screws at the end of the brass keeping it fixed in the holder when machining. The holder can take several steel discs at the same time. Kaj then cut Setup of lathe and milling head for machining pallet forks. the external diameter and milled away surplus material not needed at this stage Fig. 3 and then cut the slots for the pallet jewels and notch with a circular slit saw mounted in the milling head of the lathe. With the dividing head, he could line up the assembly to the cutter precisely where the slots would be. George Daniels mentions

in his book Watchmaking another way a pallet fork can be made.12 Kaj made five

pallet forks to start with. Since it does Close-up of setup. not take much longer to make five pallet

forks compared to one, make some more in case 3. After the hardening and tempering, it was time some fail later in the machining process. to lay out the final outside shape of the pallet fork,

2. When the first machining in the lathe was com- and to drill the hole for the guard pin. This was done pleted, it needed to be hardened and tempered. in the Hauser M1 due to the high precision it offers compared to scribing by hand.

12. Daniels, Watchmaking, 160-162.

26 April 2017 Fig. 4 Fig. 7

Result after removing machining marks from the surface.

Fig. 8

After hardening it was tempered. Here it is being tempered in brass shavings on top of a hot plate.

Fig. 5 After the tempering, the final outside shape of the pallet fork was scribed with the Hauser M1 jig-boring machine, and a hole for the guard pin was Pallet forks in different stages of machining. drilled. 5. Now Kaj had to find suitable pallet jewels with 4. The final outside shape was hand filed to the the correct angles for the impulse planes. He found scribed marks with various diamond files. The pallet jewels that were too long and wide, so he had to pol- fork was held in a mini-vice during the filing. ish them to the correct dimensions in the polishing tripod used for black-flat polishing.

Fig. 6 Fig. 9

Shape after hand filing in the mini-vice. Pallet jewel secured with Loctite 480 on the polishing platform.

Horological Times 27 Technical Discussion: Making a Watch from Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela, Part Four

6. The pallets could now be fitted with shellac into In the best-case scenario, we may try to find an the pallet jewel slots, and a staff could be fitted. It was identical new pallet for it, which can be very time- ready to be tested. consuming and the color might not match since the modern pallet jewels tend to be much darker. To Fig. 10 leave a chipped jewel may not be a good idea, even if it does not interfere with the direct function, safety, and performance of the escapement. In the long run, a chipped pallet jewel may have its lubrication drawn away from the pallet impulse plane. In restoration, it is always more attractive, in my opinion, to keep the original part if possible. If Prototype pallet fork fitted with the pallet jewels and staff but without the guard pin fitted, ready pallets are not too severely damaged, we can restore for testing. them instead of replacing them. It is usually much faster to restore them than spending hours trying to Restoration Tip: Restoring Chipped find a suitable one. Pallet Jewels

We have all come across chipped pallet jewels when Procedure to restore a chipped repairing clients’ watches. It’s even a quite common pallet jewel problem with antique or vintage watches. 1. Remove the chipped jewel from the lever by Fig. 11 heating up the shellac or dissolving it in alcohol.

2. With an end mill or drill that is roughly twice as big in diameter as the thickness of the pallet jewel, make a shallow hole in the platform of the tripod used for black polishing. If using drills, you can hand drill the hole either with a hand drill or in the staking set with a collet holder. This is a fast way of Chipped pallet jewel. making the hole without the using a drill press.

28 April 2017 Fig. 12 Fig. 14

Drills and hand drill with staking tool and collet holder.

3. Try the pallet in the hole. It should rest at the The pallet jewel secured in its hole in the platform on the right-hand side. bottom and on the upper corner of the hole, having

the impulse plane slightly above the flat surface of the 4. As with polishing screws, adjust the pallet jewel platform with the impulse plane more or less parallel impulse plane glued in the polishing tripod platform with the platform surface. If necessary, drill deeper that is fixed in a pin vice of the tripod. It should be until the right depth is found. When it is reached, absolutely flat with a flat, steel plate or something secure the pallet with Loctite 480 (or a similar flat and smooth. You can even use the plate you will product that is resistant to vibrations and shocks) polish on.

in the hole of the platform you just created. After Fig. 15 you have restored a few different-sized pallets, you will have a few different-sized holes in the platform, making it more likely that one of these holes will suit future pallets. This will save time not having to drill a hole for every pallet in need of restoration.

Fig. 13

Pallet jewel glued in the previously drilled hole of Cross section of setup with pallet glued in a hole in the the platform with impulse plane more or less platform. The impulse plane is set flat with the tin plate, parallel with the surface of the platform. and the platform is held in a pin vice in the tripod.

Horological Times 29 Technical Discussion: Making a Watch from Conception to Finished Product with Kaj Korpela, Part Four

5. If a lot of material needs to be polished away, The impulse plane angle will change very slowly you can start to polish on brass with 2-6-micron the more you polish it. However, this change is so diamond paste, and then switch to 1 micron. For the minute that you can ignore it. You would have to final polish, use 1 micron on the tin plate. polish down more than half the length of the pallet

Fig. 16 before any significant change in angle would appear. If, however, the impulse angle is lost for some reason or needs to be modified to a specific angle, a tool such as is explained in George Daniels’s book

Watchmaking13 appears to be useful in its concept to restore the angle.

Fig. 17

Polishing the impulse plane with 1 micron paste on a tin plate, moving the tripod around in small circles, causing the pallet jewel to move around in the diamond paste placed on the tin plate. Apply little pressure to avoid breaking the pallet jewel.

Pallet jewel after polishing.

References: AWCI members pay Korpela, Henrik: Figures: 11-17. The Theory of Horologyonly Korpela, Kaj: interviews on how to make parts of his watch. $188.96 Figures: 1-10. (plus shipping & handling) This book has become the “bible” for schools, training centers, and Wang, Shuai (student of K&H Watchmaking Competence even watch specialists. Centre): Polishing pallet jewel in restoring chipped pallet “Everything about the theory jewels chapter. of watchmaking under one roof! Includes the latest elements of watchmaking in a very clear form.” ~Antoine Simonin Director of WOSTEP September 1999 Henrik Korpela is a watchmaker living in Switzerland and the principal of Korpela and Hofs Watchmaking Not a member? Join today at Competence Centre. www.awci.com/become-a-member

Purchase your book online at 13. Daniels, Watchmaking, 189. www.awci.com/online-store Regular price $209.95 30 April 2017 SERVICING THE AGING MODERN FLOOR CLOCK IN THE HOME Taught by Michael Gainey, CC21 NAWCC National Convention at the Sheraton Arlington Hotel, Arlington, Texas

June9am-1pm & 2pm-6pm 26-28 each day! Cost: $499 | To register contact the AWCI Education Coordinator, Rob McLeod, at 866-367-2924 For additional information, go to www.awci.com/classes.

COURSE DESCRIPTION Making house calls on floor clocks is a very important addition to any repair shop’s bottom line. Learn how Mr. Gainey has made this the most profitable day of his week. This three-day class focuses on repairs to the modern floor clock movement that can be completed in the home, as well as determining when the clock needs to go to the shop. We will be examining, through a series of photographs, the most common problems encountered when repairing the aging modern floor clock movement and how to correct them. We will also perform hands-on repairs and adjustments to the modern Hermle clock movement. Through the use of 100s of tips and techniques, Michael will share the wisdom and knowledge he has obtained over the course of 39 years and over 20,000 house calls that enable him to troubleshoot almost any mechanical problem in a matter of minutes. A partial list of topics to be discussed include; different house call approaches, scheduling, pricing, guarantees, worn-out movements, movement replacements vs. movement restorations, basic escape- ment adjusting, clock parts nomenclature, maintenance intervals, the house call tool box, problems specific to certain movement types, troubleshooting, and general tips and time savers.

FOLLOW MICHAEL GAINEY ON FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/masterclockrepair Industry NEWS In Summary

By Aaron Recksiek, CW21

Swiss Watch International Goes 21st Century Neuchâtel Clock the mechanism, as they received many out of Business Engineering students at the École inquiries from the watchmaking in- South Florida watch company Swiss Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne dustry. The clock is on display in the Watch International, also known as (Swiss Federal Institute of Technol- lobby of Neuchâtel Town Hall. The SWI Group, laid off its 129 ogy in Lausanne) or EPFL have de- Revue FH, 19 janvier 2017, No 1, page 61 employees and closed for bus- veloped a traditional Neuchâtel-style http://actu.epfl.ch/news/the-mechanical-clock- iness on January 23. SWI was mostly clock with a 21st-century oscillator. of-the-21st-century-on-displa/ an online watch retailer that ran The prototype “IsoSpring” mecha- http://actu.epfl.ch/news/the-oscillator-that- the websites WorldofWatches.com, nism, which replaces the traditional could-makeover-the-mechanical-/ eWatches.com, TheWatchery.com, and escapement and oscillator, rotates in SmartBargains.com. The company only one direction to release the pow- also owned the watch brands Swiss er from the gear train and mainspring, Breitling DC-3 World Tour Legend and Lucien Piccard. As of and eliminates the “stop-and-go” mo- The watch company most noted for March 8, several of the websites were tion and ticking that normally accom- their aviation watches is undergoing still operational, but orders are not pany a watch or clock mechanism. another promotional tour with the help being fulfilled and attempts to con- The efficiency of this system is also of an iconic and historical aircraft. Last tact the company were unsuccessful. exponentially greater than previously year, the Breitling Jet Team completed Investment firm Clearlake Capital available technology, allowing for their first tour of North America. This Group sold the company to an un- minimal or zero lubrication and sub- year, Breitling has planned a world disclosed buyer in September and stantially longer power reserves. The tour featuring a twin-engine propel- SWI was operating under a temp- development of the mechanism came ler-driven Douglas DC-3, the airplane orary forbearance agreement, a special from a principle discovered by Isaac was most commonly used at the dawn agreement between the lender and the Newton in the 17th century: “Imag- of commercial airlines and by the mili- borrower to delay a foreclosure. The ine an ancient sling in which you use tary during the second world war. The closure of Swiss Watch International a leather strap to make a stone turn in tour will last from March to Septem- is not considered a bankruptcy but a a circle. If you replace the strap with ber with multiple stages to participate forfeiture of its assets to its investors. an elastic band, the stone will now in several events and aeronautical www.bizjournals.com/southflorida/ move in an ellipse and its speed will shows. This specific DC-3 has been news/2017/01/31/swiss-watch-international- no longer be constant; on the other decorated in the Breitling colors and closes-business-lays-off.html hand, its period will now be constant will carry on board 500 limited edition www.sun-sentinel.com/business/consumer/ so it can be used to measure time Navitimer Breitling DC-3 watches fl-bz-watch-seller-layoffs-20170131-story.html precisely.” The EPFL has filed two that will make the entire worldwide patents for the invention, and they trip. Upon completion of the tour, are hard at work trying to miniaturize the watches will be sold with a certif-

32 April 2017 icate signed by the flight captain. The Vacheron Constantin Names www.jckonline.com/2017/01/26/jeffrey-cohen- appointed-president-alpina-frederique-constant-usa Breitling-branded DC-3 took its maid- New CEO en voyage on March 9, 1940, and if the The Richemont Group announced www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/jeffrey- tour is completed successfully, it will in January that they would be re- cohen-named-as-president-of-alpina-frederique- constant-usa-inc-300397815.html become the oldest airplane to com- placing the CEOs this year in four plete a round-the-world tour. of their major brands. In February, they appointed Louis Ferla as the new Walter Lange Passes Away Revue FH, 19 janvier 2017, No 1, page 20-21 CEO of Vacheron Constantin. Ferla Walter Lange, the great-grandson of www.breitling.com/en/news/details/the- has been with Richemont in various A. Lange & Söhne founder, Ferdinand breitling-dc-3-kicks-off-its-great-world- sales and management positions since Adolph Lange, passed away on January tour-4864 2001. He will be replacing Juan-Car- 17, 2017 at the age of 92. Walter los Torres who has held the position Lange led the revival of A. Lange & Rolex Stays World’s Most since 2005. Torres will remain with Söhne after the collapse of the East Reputable Brand the company as non-executive presi- German government in 1989. Mr. Rolex was rated as the “World’s Most dent and will work side by side with Lange attended watchmaking school Reputable Brand” for the second Ferla during the transition period. in 1942 before being drafted into the year in a row. The ranking, called army. The Lange company, founded www.hodinkee.com/articles/louis-ferla- Global RepTrak 100, is published vacheron-constantin-ceo in 1845, had been expropriated by the annually by the Reputation Institute Soviet-led government in 1948, and in the first quarter of the year. The the brand ceased to exist during that Reputation Institute conducts the Alpina Frederique Constant time. He returned to the company largest corporate reputation study by USA Names President in 1945 just before he was forced to collecting and analyzing over 170,000 Jeffrey Cohen has been appointed as turn his family’s company over to ratings between seven different cat- the president of Alpina Frederique the authorities. After a successful egories: products and services, inno- Constant USA Inc, the organization resurrection of the brand, The vation, workplace, governance, citi- formed to oversee the Alpina and Richemont Group acquired A. Lange zenship, leadership, and performance. Frederique Constant brands, since & Söhne in 2000. Mr. Lange has Rolex scored very high in several Citizen Watch Co. acquired them last received many awards during his categories but scored highest for con- May. Cohen will also remain as the lifetime for his service to the industry sumer perception of its performance, president of Citizen Watch America, and was currently serving as brand and products and services. The other which is the US headquarters for the ambassador and Honorary Chairman companies in the top five were: #2— Citizen and Bulova brands. Citizen at the time of his death. LEGO, #3—Walt Disney Company, plans to keep the watch brands as sep- www.jckonline.com/2017/01/17/remembered- #4—Canon, and #5—Google. arate companies, but they will merge walter-lange-who-revived-lange-sohne certain operations in the Unites States. www.prweb.com/releases/2017/03/ Starting in 2017, “this integration into https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A._ prweb14104502.htm Lange_%26_S%C3%B6hne the Citizen Watch America organi- www.forbes.com/sites/ zation, the Frederique Constant and www.quillandpad.com/2017/01/31/life-times- karstenstrauss/2017/02/28/the-worlds-most- lange-sohne-re-founder-walter-lange/ reputable-companies-in-2017/#5c776752fe33 Alpina Watches brands will greatly benefit from the sales distribution, marketing power, and operational ca- Aaron Recksiek is an independent pabilities of the Citizen Group.” watchmaker in Salt Lake City, Utah. He is a graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz Watch Technicum.

Horological Times 33 a message from the executive director JORDAN P. FICKLIN, CW21 Continued from p. 5

begin scanning soon. When we launch our new website later this year, members will have access to an estimated 10,000 technical documents. We believe it will be the largest digital library of watch and clock information anywhere in the world—and it will be accessible everywhere in the world. Expanding education: We are working hard to figure out how we can reduce the costs of AWCI classes and make it easier for professionals to gain more education as well as for new people to enter the profession. We are looking into ways to deliver distance learning and online education. Increased profitability: We want to help each of you make more money as watch and clock professionals. We have several ideas that will help you promote yourself and your business so that at the end of the day, you can take home more money. It isn’t easy. There is a lot to do, none of it is free, and it all takes time. As we investigate these options, we hope to hear from you with your ideas. No idea is too big. No idea is too small. No idea is too crazy. Please share your ideas.

34 April 2017 Column: From the Workshop From the Workshop By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI

Are You Chasing the Nickel? Bob dealt with another watch repair shop that had a The late Bob W., who worked with us for many years until firm policy of obtaining at least three bids on every spare his untimely passing four years ago, may not have coined part purchase. When that shop needed any parts costing (no pun intended) the phrase, “chasing the nickel,” but it more than a few dollars, they would call around for price certainly described how he viewed some customers. He and availability to at least three material houses. Just used that phrase to describe people who spend an inor- imagine the time wasted making those calls, with each dinate amount of time searching for a bargain with the call absorbing the valuable time of at least two people hope of saving some dollars. In many cases, not only do while the nickel was being chased. they not save any money, they may spend more Real value Although Bob is no longer with us, I still in terms of wasted time, which can easily erase is found in fondly recall his wisdom and was again remind- any minimal dollar saving. It is not a problem solid business ed of it a few days ago as I read a Wall Street for watchmakers if their customers chase the relationships Journal article about people who chase credit nickel, but it can be costly when the watch- rather than card points. These folks search for credit card makers themselves start chasing the nickel. I’ll points or deals that reward cardholders with bonus points. cite a few examples. One watchmaker called us nickels. Use the chosen card at this hotel chain and get a to ask the price of some brand-specific spare thousand-point bonus. Book your airfare on that parts. The watchmaker explained to me that one of the airline and get more points. The article examined the point larger material houses had them in stock but were priced system in depth and concluded that, in the majority of cases, too high. In order to save a few nickels for the custom- little or nothing was gained by chasing points. In fact, many er, he wondered if perhaps we had them at a lower cost. cardholders paid more for a hotel room or airline ticket just Since we do not stock these parts, I could not even quote to get points. Often points have an expiration date and im- a price. I asked, “Why not get them from the large mate- pose limitations on their use. Understand that whether we rial house? They have them in stock, you need them, and chase nickels or points, we may spend more time and money the customer is the ultimate buyer who pays for them.” than if we did not bother with the chase. The watchmaker agreed and went on to buy those parts. Real value is found in solid business relationships Too often watchmakers consider themselves the rather than points or nickels. More than ever before, consumers of spare parts when in reality they are only watchmakers need to value one of their most important a conduit for those parts. Watchmakers merely buy the industry partners, their material dealer. Without a depend- parts on behalf of their customers, and then add some able source of spare parts how can we repair watches? That profit to the cost when they bill them to the customer. dependable supplier also needs dependable watchmakers Time spent chasing a few nickels to pay less for the who understand the true cost of “chasing the nickel.” parts costs the watchmaker precious time with no com- mensurate benefit. With luck, a few coins will be saved Jack Kurdzionak, watchmaker and watch material spe- cialist, owned a Boston-area watch sales and service shop and passed on to the customer. However, with no luck, for 40 years. He has a BS (Northeastern University, 1967) time has been wasted without benefitting anyone. and has studied at ETA, WOSTEP, BHI, SGUS, and AWCI, and works for Eckcells Watch Materials.

Horological Times 35 WATCH C RYSTALS AND S UPPLIES

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ull disclosure—I am not an independent. I do not brand(s) works best in your workshop. The likelihood of Frun my own workshop. I do not make decisions battery leakage, for example, was a major factor in brand about battery brands. However, I wonder what takes place selection among the 50 watchmakers and clockmakers in the minds of people who do. who participated in the survey. Information is required of watchmakers and clockmak- The following article will discuss the results of the ers who are business owners in order for them to make battery survey as well as several factors that affect battery decisions on how their businesses operate. But, I assume, brand preference. they can’t spend significant amounts of time and effort pouring over data for every one of these decisions. So, the purpose of this month’s column is to provide, as neutral- ly as possible, some factors to consider when choosing a battery brand. Storage and disposal will also be addressed. The information provided will assist independents in the selection of products that are best for them, their customers, and the timepieces they service. Although ef- forts were made to turn out comprehensive information, readers are encouraged to perform their own research to discover which products work best for them, especially due to the everchanging nature of battery technology.

Please note, in this article: ""The words “battery” and “cell” are used inter- changeably. The results of last month’s battery survey. ""Non-rechargeable silver oxide button batteries will be the focus. ""Although clockmakers may find this information Attainability useful, it is intended for the watchmaker. 24% of respondents base their brand selection on " I deliberately do not recommend a battery brand • " the ease in which they are obtained. and leave this choice up to the reader. • 29% order batteries from Jules Borel & Co., while 14% buy from Cas-Ker, 8% order online, 2% When I created last month’s survey, I assumed inde- from Eckcells, and another 2% from box stores. pendents selected a battery brand based on four criteria: (Note: Some participants wrote in two suppliers. Their attainability, lifetime, affordability, and recommendations. answers were treated as if they came from separate par- I have come to realize this was shortsighted. There are ticipants for the percentage calculations.) many factors to consider when determining which battery

Horological Times 37 Column: Looking at Options: Business and Workshop Practices Survey

• 48% of participants wrote in a supplier. These Lithium batteries last longer than silver oxide batteries, answers varied, but more popular write-ins were which last longer than alkaline batteries. Batteries with a Stuller (10%), Star Time (6%), McCaw (6%), and greater amount of starting materials will last longer than Esslinger (4%). those with a smaller amount. • 44% chose their supplier for convenience. Shelf life is different from battery life as it refers to the • 26% selected their supplier for customer service. length of time an inactive battery can remain usable. Shelf life is shortened by side reactions that occur when no load Battery Life is applied to the battery. Shelf life is also determined by • 20% of participants preferred a battery brand for the storage temperature, battery chemistry, and the amount perceived longer life of its batteries. of chemical material available. Battery life, the length of time a battery will supply current (remain active) before becoming unusable, de- • Nearly 70% of participants answered they did not pends on the amount of current required to operate the experience shorter than expected shelf life from a timepiece (consumption) and the temperatures the time- specific brand. piece is subject to during operation. A battery’s shelf life • The fewest number of respondents experienced will be discussed later. shortened shelf life from Energizer and Seizaiken. If the amount of energy required to operate the time- piece (consumption) is known, capacity can be used to Affordability quantitatively calculate battery life. Capacity can be found • 94% of the watchmakers and clockmakers who par- on battery manufacturer datasheets. Measured in milli- ticipated in the survey were satisfied with the cost of amp-hours (mAh), capacity gives an idea of how much their supplier’s batteries. energy is stored by a battery. • Only 2% ranked affordability as a primary consider- A battery with 20 mAh capacity will last 1 hour if 20 ation for selecting a brand. milliamps per hour are drawn from it, or 2 hours if 10 milliamps per hour are drawn from it. If a watch’s con- Recommendations sumption is 1 microamp (µA) per hour and its battery has • Energizer and Renata were the most preferred bat- a capacity of 20 mAh, the battery will last 20,000 hours tery brands among participants with nearly 64% se- in that watch. (20 mAh x 1000) / 1 µA= 20,000 hours or lecting Energizer and 22% naming Renata. 27.4 months. While it may seem reasonable to assume a watch or Likelihood of Leakage clockmaker could compare capacities across brands to Of the 25 participants who submitted a written answer determine which batteries had the highest capacity and for Question 2 (“What is the primary reason for your pre- therefore the longest life, reality is not so simple. There is ferred battery brand?”), 12 preferred a brand for the per- limited uniformity in testing procedures between brands. ceived decreased likelihood of leakage. Batteries are tested with different applied loads at differ- • 39% of participants either did not experience battery ent temperatures. Even if these conditions were the same, leaks in a timepiece or did not experience a greater capacities are notorious for being poor predictors of actu- number of leaks within a particular brand. al life time. • 26% of participants experienced leakage from more Battery life is dramatically decreased by high tempera- than one brand. tures which accelerate the chemical reactions occurring • 11 out of 12 of the participants who referenced inside the cell. The battery chemistry (whether a battery leakage in their written answer preferred Energizer is silver oxide, alkaline, or lithium) and the amount of for the brand’s perceived decrease in likelihood of chemical material available also determine battery life. leaking—that’s 22% of all participants!

38 April 2017 The results of the survey revealed participants Other Factors experienced more leaks in specific brands; however, Other popular reasons for brand preference, which two or it was determined this information should not be more participants wrote in, include: a high level of quality shared due to lack of objective data. It isn’t known how (Energizer and Renata), consistency/reliability (Energiz- recently leaking batteries were discovered nor whether er), nationality of the manufacturer (Energizer and Re- or not manufacturing processes have changed since a nata), and packaging (Energizer and Renata) Regarding participant spotted leaking batteries. packaging, it is difficult to know with certainty, but I be- However, the Great British Watch Co. released a sur- lieve these participants prefer a certain quantity of batter- vey in 2014 through which 3,000 watches with expired ies in a package (i.e., packages of 6 cells versus 1 cell). batteries were examined to assess leakage. According to There are several additional brand selling points, this survey, Energizer batteries were least likely to leak, each provided by only one survey taker. One participant while Rayovac and Varta batteries were most likely. It is wrote that he or she is the only horologist using Seizaik- important for horologists to use their own recent experi- en (Seiko) batteries in their area. “Factory recommend- ence and the recent experiences of others to determine if ed” (Renata), “fits better in battery well” (Energizer), one battery brand is superior to another in this regard. and “dedicated high and low drain” (Renata) were other In silver oxide button cells, leakages occur due to the provided reasons. breakdown of the separator (named for its role as a sep- Consider also how well the battery fits. Certain arator between the cathode and anode) over time, which batteries are a few hundredths of a millimeter smaller allows electrolyte to directly contact the zinc in the cath- than others. Using an oversized battery may force the ode. (See diagram at bottom of this page.) When the con- watchmaker or clockmaker to dismantle the movement tact occurs, a chemical reaction takes place, the product of to retrieve the battery. Other batteries have a more which is a gas that builds up inside the battery can. Since curved case that impedes contact of the battery with the battery is sealed, the gas creates pressure that tries to the contact in the movement. escape through weak points in the gasket. The attempted Something else to think about is the stringency of escape of the gas can damage the gasket, leaving the high- the standards required by agencies such as American ly caustic electrolyte free to leak out. Battery swelling is National Standards Institute (ANSI), International another consequence of internal gas buildup. Electrotechnical Commission (IEC), and Underwriters The closer the battery is to its expiration date, the Laboratories (UL). more likely leakage will occur. According to the Great I encourage all readers to use the battery brand British Watch Co. survey, 40% of expired batteries leak. recommended by the manufacturers of the timepieces High temperatures cause the separator to degrade more they service. rapidly, putting batteries exposed to hot conditions at a greater risk for leakage. Separators for high-drain batteries are thinner than those used for low-drain batteries, mak- ing high-drain batteries more likely to leak. Cell height is another factor contributing to the likelihood of leakage. Taller batteries are less likely to leak than shorter batteries. To mitigate leaks, urge customers to bring their time- piece in for a battery change before its expiration date. Also, be sure to replenish battery stocks each year.

Diagram of a button battery.

Courtesy of Great British Watch Co.

Horological Times 39 Column: Looking at Options: Business and Workshop Practices Survey

Storage There are two major benefits of recycling used Most battery manufacturers’ websites have a Frequently batteries: environmental protection and financial gain. Asked Questions page with storage recommendations. Nickel-cadmium (Ni-Cd) and mercury batteries con- Keep new batteries in their original packing. Avoid stor- tain heavy metals that are known to contaminate soil and ing batteries in extreme temperatures or direct sunlight. pollute water. Caustic chemicals inside alkaline and silver Storage conditions should be both dry and room tem- oxide cells are also harmful to the environment. Recy- perature or slightly cooler (between 10°C and 20°C or cling these keep them from ending up in landfills. 50°F and 68°F) to avoid capacity loss, leakage, or rupture. Recycling spent silver oxide batteries can earn the There is a commonly held belief that refrigeration im- watchmaker or clockmaker money because silver may proves battery life; however, most battery manufacturers be extracted from them. These can be sold to a recycling don’t recommend this practice as it can lead to condensa- company such as Mercury Refining LLC, even ones that tion formation on the cell. have leaked! Kurt Monaco of Mercury Refining LLC ex- Used batteries should be stored in small quantities plained leaking and/or swollen batteries may be placed in in a non-metal container. Often, used batteries are not the same bag as intact batteries and will be handled in the completely dead. Batteries should be stored in limited same manner. quantities as contact with other batteries can create safe- Earth911 can help locate a facility for disposing of ty issues. Contact between batteries and metal, like walls other batteries, even pesky Ni-Cd, mercury, and lithium of a metal container, can lead to heat generation or leak- batteries. Their search engine allows the watchmaker or age. For this reason, avoid leaving batteries loose in a clockmaker to enter a zip code to receive a list of local drawer or container with metal objects like paper clips facilities and what they accept. or screwdriver blades. To demonstrate the use of this resource, I went through the steps of searching for a local recycling facility using my home zip code, treating it as if it were a busi- ness. First, I went to earth911.com and clicked on “Re- cycle Search” to bring up a search box. I typed “Button Cell Batteries” and my zip code. Three pages of listings appeared. Several were municipal programs that required me to be a resident of a certain city to take part. I clicked on the first entry, and a chart of accepted materials appeared including “Items Containing Mercu- ry,” “Nickel-cadmium Batteries,” and “Lithium-ion Bat- Don’t let batteries accumulate into too big of a pile teries.” Two columns on the chart, indicated whether the because it turns into a safety concern. facility could be used by businesses, residences, or both. The chart also showed whether batteries could be picked up by the facility, should be dropped off at the facility, or Disposal whether the facility accepts both methods. In total, there are eight recycling facilities within 25 When it comes to disposal of spent batteries, it’s easy to miles I am qualified to use and would have access to as think about tossing them in a garbage bin; however, this a business. (Some programs were within 25 miles of my may not be the best solution for all battery chemistries. home but were restricted to residents from cities I don’t Alkaline is the only battery safe for disposal as common live in. This number represents the facilities that either household waste. Most batteries can be recycled. didn’t have restrictions or were available to residents of my • 64% of participants take part in a recycling program. city.) Five of these accept lithium, four accept Ni-Cd, and one accepts batteries containing mercury.

40 April 2017 In addition to listing local recycling facilities, the Sources “What Are Amp Hours” www.all-about-lead-acid-batteries. website provided information for 12 mail-in programs. “Battery Capacity Comparison Table” capnfatz.com/all-about-lead-acid-batteries/ www.daycounter.com/LabBook/ lead-acid-battery-fundamentals/ When shipping spent batteries, Mercury Refining LLC Battery-Capacity-Comparison.phtml what-are-amp-hours/ suggests sealing them in a plastic bag (such as Ziploc) “Battery Life (and Death)” “Which Watch Battery Do You Need? The www.mpoweruk.com/life.htm before placing them in the shipping container and taping Interesting World of Watch Batteries!” www.watchbattery.co.uk/Which_Watch_ “BU-106a Choices of Primary Batteries” Battery.html all seams of the shipping container to help ensure the www.batteryuniversity.com/learn/ shipment arrives securely. article/choices_of_primary_batteries Kurt Monaco, Mercury Refining LLC (personal communication, February 10, 2017) “Frequently Asked Questions About Watch Conclusion Batteries” http://biz.maxell.com/en/ www.watchbatteries-usa.com/faq.html primary_batteries/sr_coin.html Hopefully, this discussion of factors involved in battery https://www.duracell.com/en-us/ “How Batteries Work” www.earth911.com brand selection as well as battery storage and disposal http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/ everyday-tech/battery6.htm www.energizer.com/ considerations will be useful to the independents mak- www.panasonic-batteries.com ing their brand choices for the first time and the veteran “How to Spot and Fix a Watch Battery Leak.” www.renata.com Great British Watch Company. www.sii.co.jp/en/me/battery/products/ horologists re-examining their practices. My sincerest www.Great-british-watch.co.uk/how-to- silver-oxide/ appreciation goes out to all who participated in the sur- spot-and-deal-with-watch-battery-leaks/ “Product Stewardship: Batteries.” Image Credits vey and those who shared information for making this https://web.archive.org/web/ article possible. 20040204030237/http://www.epa.gov/ http://www.publicdomainpictures.net/ epr/products/batteries.html view-image.php?image=190569&picture =button-cell-batteries “Watch Batteries.” Dec. 22, 2013. www.great-british-watch-co.uk Editor’s Note: A good resource for watchmakers is the AWCI Battery www.Great-british-watch.co.uk/ Number System Booklet. It was updated in 2008 to include new battery watch-batteries/ types and styles. It cross-references all manufacturer’s battery codes, as “Watts in a Name? Why We’re Using Watt- well as AWCI battery numbering system. You can purchase it through Hours to Compare Batteries” AWCI’s website: https://members.awci.com/AWCIWEB/Core/Orders/ www.m.thewirecutter.com/blog/watts- product.aspx?catid=2&prodid=31 in-a-name-why-were-using-watt-hours- to-compare-batteries/

Hannah Mancill is a graduate of the North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking and a watchmaker at a service center in Texas.

To take the Insurance Survey, go to: https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/9KVWMTP Insurance Survey If you don’t want to take the survey online, answer the questions below and email to [email protected]. 1. Which insurance company carries your f. $751-900 b. Vandalism 8. Which insurance company carried primary business insurance (include jew- g. $901-1050 c. Fire your primary business insurance at the elers block, general liability, professional h. $1050+ d. Flood time of the event? liability/errors and omissions, and prop- e. Tornado a. AllState erty policies. Exclude data breach, work- 3. Does your primary business insurance f. Other (please specify) b. Jewelers Mutual man’s comp, life, disability, auto, renters, carrier offer a Jewelers Block policy? If c. Jewelers unBLOCKed and health policies) so, do you hold this policy? 6. How long did work stop during the d. Nationwide a. AllState a. Burglary recovery process for the above event? e. Progressive b. Jewelers Mutual b. Vandalism a. Work did not stop during recovery. f. State Farm c. Jewelers unBLOCKed c. Fire b. Less than 1 week g. Travelers d. Nationwide d. Flood c. 8 days-1 month h. Other (please specify) e. Progressive e. Tornado d. 3 months + 1 day-6 months f. State Farm f. Other (please specify) e. 6months + 1 day-9 months 9. Based on your insurance carrier’s g. Travelers f. 9 months + 1 day-12 months response to claims submitted for this h. Other (please specify) 4. Has your workshop been affected g. Over 1 year event, please rank your satisfaction by any of the following? Select all that with this carrier. 2. What do you pay monthly for your apply. 7. How much did the resolution cost a. Not at all Satisfied primary business insurance? (include a. Burglary for the above event? b. Somewhat Satisfied jewelers block, general liability, profes- b. Vandalism a. Less than $10,000 c. Very Satisfied sional liability/errors and omissions, and c. Fire b. B. $10,001-20,000 property policies. Exclude data breach, d. Flood c. C. $20,000-35,000 10. If your business was affected by workman’s comp, life, disability, auto, e. Tornado d. D. $35,001-50,000 an event through which an insurance renters, and health policies) f. Other (please specify) e. E. $50,000-75,000 claim was filed, would you be willing a. $0-150 f. F. $75,001-100,000 to share your experience with other b. $151-300 5. Think of the most catastrophic event g. G. $100,000+ readers? If so, please provide a phone c. $301-450 to happen at your business. Classify the number (and best time to reach you) or d. $451-600 event. email address so we may contact you e. $601-750 a. Burglary for your story.

Horological Times 41 Watchmaking Excellence: CW21 Standards LUBRICATION

he ideal quantities of lubrication on Tthe escapement vary widely by man- ufacturer and depend on factors such as size and rate of the escapement, as well as  whether or not epilame is applied. In all cas- es, lubrication must be present and must be cleanly applied only in functional areas. No lubricant should be present on the top or bottom of the pallet stones, deep in the gaps between escape wheel teeth, or so far down the locking face that it contacts the body of

the pallet fork. An acceptable amount of lubrication cleanly applied.   

Lubrication deep in the gap between Oil on top of the pallet stone is not Escapement is flooded with oil on escape wheel teeth is not acceptable. acceptable. top of escape wheel teeth.

42 April 2017 2017 Annual

“Renew your watchmaking spirit” ~Robert Flood

Come to the DoubleTree Tampa Airport Westshore for AWCI’s 2017 Annual Convention $139/night includes breakfast and free shuttle from the Tampa Airport Tampa, Florida October 4-7

Look for more details in upcoming issues of Horological Times and social media. Mark your calendar now! Visit us on Facebook. The Horological Association of Virginia 2017 Annual Convention Charlottesville, VA

The Horological Association of Virginia is pleased to announce its plans for the 2017 Annual Convention. Dates: April 28-30, 2017 Location: DoubleTree By Hilton Hotel 990 Hilton Heights Road Charlottesville, VA 22901 434-973-2121 Guest Speakers: Watchmaker’s/Clockmaker’s Programs (see below) Convention Chairmen: John C. Polk President [email protected] 804-335-5006 Convention Details: If you’d like a registration form or have additional questions, you may forward your request to [email protected]. [email protected]

2017 Convention Programs CEU’s are available for the classes being offered Watchmaker’s Programs Clockmaker’s Programs Saturday, April 29 Saturday, April 29 Scott Walters, CW21 Michael Gainey, CC21 Technical Discussion on the Dubois-Depraz Servicing the Aging Modern Floor Clock in the Home Modular Chronograph - A discussion on different approaches to repairing aging modern floor clocks in the home as well as - Exploring the history of chronographs, types, modular concept from the beginning of 1969, how to tell when a clock is “worn out.” variations of current production modular chronographs by Dubois-Depraz, and the manufac- - Explore an in-depth survey of the most common problems with the Hermle, Urgos, Keininger, and turers using them. Jauch movements that are solvable on site, allowing participants to learn how to troubleshoot any - Nomenclature, servicing the base model and modular unit, service points, and tips. of these movements within the first five minutes of entering a home. Servicing the ETA 6497 - Mr. Gainey will demonstrate, on an actual clock, his approach to servicing the floor clock in the - A look at the 6497, its use by manufacturers, and the theory of “make your own” client’s home. - Nomenclature, ETAChron system adjustments, barrel servicing, the importance of endshake, and HAV Speaker’s Forum This class, meant to be both inspirational how to measure them. and motivational, is designed to increase - Some aspects of this program may be hands on with a limited amount of movements available. Sunday, April 30 the income of horologists by helping Michael Gainey, CC21 the clockmaker and watchmaker better “Know your Value” appreciate their value to the consumer. Spouse’s Program Saturday, April 29 Lunch and a Tour of Thomas Jefferson’s Historic Monticello 931 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy Charlottesville, VA 22902 By No machine-readable author provided. CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=667231

44 April 2017 YOU CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE www.awci.com/volunteer www.awci.com/volunteer

Do you enjoy spending time with other watchmakers and clockmakers? Join Your Local Affiliate Chapter for more information log on to awci.com/about-us/affiliate-chapters

Florida Indiana Minnesota New York Ohio Texas LWT Alumni Florida Watch & Indianapolis Horologi- Minnesota Clockmakers Horological Society of Watchmakers/ Capital Area Watch & Association Clockmakers cal Association Guild New York Clockmakers Clockmakers Guild Aaron Recksiek, CW21, President Association, Inc. Joseph M. Schrader, CMW21 Richard Zielike, President Ed Hydeman, President Association of Ohio Glen Morehead, President Michael Taylor, CW21 Lafayette, IN Dean Ziegenbein, Secretary New York, NY Michael Gainey, CC21 Jay Holloway, Secretary 801-580-7673 (C) President 765-742-8716 Apple Valley, MN [email protected] President Pflugerville, TX 941-586-3761 (C) [email protected] 952-454-1247 www.hs-ny.org Columbus, OH 512-294-7371 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.lwtalumni.org Massachusetts New York State Watch- 614-833-0378 (B) www.cawcg.org Matt Hritz, CW21 Massachusetts Watch- Missouri makers Association Vice President makers- Clockmakers Dale LaDue, CMW21, Mark A. Baker, CMW, CC21 International Rep Metro St. Louis Watch- Treasurer Virginia Sarasota, FL Association, Inc. West Henrietta, NY Horological Association makers/Clockmakers 15852 ½ St. Rt. 62 941-993-0514 Christopher Carey Association 585-424-1493 of Virginia [email protected] Newton, MA P.O. Box 292 Stan Palen Judit Katona, Secretary Damascus, OH 44619 617-244-3779 [email protected] North Carolina King George, VA Richard LeBeau, CMW21 North Carolina Watch- 330-537-3939 (W) [email protected] 540-775-7027 Treasurer makers Association [email protected] [email protected] Saint Petersburg, FL Minnesota New Jersey Mack R. Shuping, CW21, http://havhome.org The Chronometer Club 727-347-3758 Midwest Watchmak- Watchmakers Treasurer Association of Pennsylvania Justin Shiver, CW21, President [email protected] ers- Clockmakers Winston Salem, NC Watchmakers Associa- Wisconsin Association New Jersey 336-287-8402 tion of Pennsylvania Fremont, CA Fabio Rodrigues, CW21 Richard Cuny, President George H. Jones Wisconsin Nick Pechman, CW21 336-768-1857 (fax) Horological Society Education Chairmen Minneapolis, MN Tom’s River, NJ [email protected] State College, PA 256-479-1741 (C) 732-818-9460 Jeff Bergey, CMW, President 786-344-2840 612-801-2578 814-238-1668 (B & H) Oregon, WI [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.wanj.us [email protected] 608-835-3698 (W) www.mwca.us 608-843-7153 (C) [email protected] [email protected] www.thechronometerclub.org

Horological Times 45 Affiliate Chapter NEWS

Minnesota Clockmakers Guild (MCG) For the March MCG meeting Dennis Ondik dis- cussed his blue ribbon state fair clock and the pro- cess he used to make the painted dial. Also, Robert Cheney shared information on Willard banjo clocks. The presentation gave insight into the details used to find an original. Cheney also appraised members’ clocks and watches. Two door prizes were given out; both were posters of “A Graphic History of the American Clock.”

Members listened with great attention as Cheney ex- plained the fine points of evaluating a pocket watch at auction.

FUTURE MCG MEETINGS/TOPICS April 6, 2017 – “Suspension Springs” by Susan Wood May 6-7, 2017 – Joint MCG/MWCA Symposium

MCG OFFICERS President Ivy Booth Phone 612-719-0161 Email [email protected] Treasurer Garth Antila Robert Cheney shared some details of where to look for the age of the glass, and how to tell if it was replaced on Phone 715-386-3575 a patented Willard banjo clock. Email [email protected] Secretary Dean Ziegenbein Phone 952-454-1247 Email [email protected]

Horological Society of New York (HSNY) The following information was obtained from The Horologist’s Loupe, submitted by Walter Pangretitsch, Recording Secretary, HSNY, Copyright©2017. Published by the Horological Society of New York, Inc.; All rights reserved. At the March 2017 meeting of HSNY, William Massena addressed questions about the pitfalls of participating in an auction, bidding, speaking with specialists, and more with his presentation, “How Cheney finished the evening by assessing members’ clocks as he has done on The Antiques Road Show. to Win (and Sometimes Lose) at Watch Auctions.”

46 April 2017 Massena’s illustrated lecture explored all aspects of HSNY OFFICERS the world of watch auctions, including key auction President Nicholas Manousos Vice President Michael Fossner houses in the international watch market, the role Recording Secretary Walter Pangretitsch of auctions in the context of watch collecting, and Treasurer Charles S. Salomon nuances of catalogue descriptions. Archivist Michael Osnato William Massena is the Managing Director of Editor Stephen Noble TimeZone.com, an online watch discussion forum, Capital Area Watchmaker and to which he has been a key contributor since its Clockmaker Guild (CAWCG) founding in 1995. He is also a partner at Digital Central Texas Affiliate Chapter - American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), www.cawcg.org Luxury Group, a Geneva-based marketing and Michael Webb gave the presentation in March. For communication research company for luxury brands, the February CAWCG meeting members brought and a trustee of HSNY. horological items with names that began with the For the February meeting John Reardon, letter “M.” For January Jay Holloway presented International Head of Watches, Christie’s, discussed several unique clock movements. Tommy Taylor and various people connected with the watchmaking Ramona Warren won door prizes. industry, including their beginnings and what motivates them today. Names mentioned were Save these 2017 Dates Andrew Waldan, Rudy Albers, Nicholas Manousos, April 1 – “Jewelling and Staking” by Dennis Warner/ Benjamin Clymer, Michael Friedman, Katie Reed, Jay Holloway Atom Moore, and many others. The class will be two parts and attendees may Mr. Reardon asked his interviewees how they participate in one or both. got started in their respective fields and what advice May 6 – “Wood Case Restoration” by Jay Holloway they would give to others. The overwhelming The class will cover basic repair of cases along answer was dedication to their jobs, enjoying what with restoration of the finish. Tips will be offered they do with a passion, and sharing their knowledge on wood types, materials used originally and today, and enthusiasm with others. glues, and finishes.

CAWCG 400-day clock training class from January.

Horological Times 47 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter News

Program Speakers for 2017 tional programs he’s given at national conventions, April – Rob Putney seminars, and classroom instruction at AWCI head- May – Don Bugh quarters. June – Letter* Our watchmakers will be lead by Scott Walters, July – Glen Morehead CW21, of Winston-Salem, North Carolina. Scott August – Auction brings a wealth of knowledge through his extensive September – Letter* education. He holds a WOSTEP certification from October – Pat Holloway the Nicholas G. Hayak School of Watchmaking, nu- November – John Hagan merous factory certifications, as well as years of ex- December – Christmas Party perience at the bench. Scott will be giving a technical *Bring a horological item beginning with a predeter- discussion on the Dubois-Depraz chronograph mod- mined letter of the alphabet. ule. Then he will present an in-depth look at the ETA 6497, as well as limited, practical “hands on” regard- CAWCG Board Members ing the proper determination and adjustment of end President Glen Morehead shake in these watches. Email [email protected] The spouse’s program will be Thomas Jeffer- Vice-President Rob Putney Email [email protected] son’s Monticello. They will enjoy a guided tour of the Treasurer Hugh Lindsay home, a stroll through the gardens, and lunch at the

Email [email protected] Monticello Café. Secretary Jay Holloway Email [email protected] Remember to bring your items for the horology auction, which will be conducted by our favorite and Horological Association of Virginia most loved auctioneer, Mr. Ronnie Spiggle. You can (HAV) email your questions to [email protected]. Information obtained from Loupes and Tweezers, Newsletter of the Horological Association of Virginia, Stay up to date with us on our Facebook page Lloyd Lehn, Editor, February 2017 “Horological Association of Virginia.” HAV President John Polk Announces —John Polk, 2017 Convention Chair Details of the 2017 HAV Convention The HAV annual Convention is just around the cor- 2017 Convention Programs ner, April 28, 29, and 30. We will be returning to the Watchmaker’s Program–Scott Walters, CW21 DoubleTree by Hilton in Charlottesville, Virginia. “Technical Discussion on the Dubois-Depraz Chrono- You can look forward to a weekend of education and graph Module” fellowship. Michael Gainey, AWCI-certified clock- ¨¨Exploring the history of chronographs, types, mod- maker from Columbus, Ohio, will present this year’s ular concept from the beginning of 1969, variations clock program. He will be giving a presentation on of current production chronograph modules by in-home servicing of the modern floor clock. You Dubois-Depraz, and the manufacturers using them. may recognize his name from articles he has written ¨¨Nomenclature, servicing the base model and mod- for the Horological Times, as well as many instruc- ular unit, service points, and tips.

48 April 2017 ¨¨“Servicing the ETA 6497” a tray of truffles for desert. In view of the holiday ¨¨A look at the caliber 6497, its use by manufacturers, atmosphere, the business meeting focused on a and the theory of “make your own.” minimum number of issues and ¨¨Nomenclature, ETAChron system adjustments, was over quickly. It is always barrel servicing, the importance of end shake, great fun to participate in the gift and how to measure them. exchange event. Lots of laughs ¨¨Some aspects of this program may be hands on, occur when a very desirable gift with a limited amount of movements available. is moved about. This year at the annual competition, contestants Clockmaker’s Program–Michael Gainey, CC21 Susanne Leon, wife competed for a TimeTrax timing of guild member ´´“Servicing the Aging Modern Floor Clock in the Paul, won a Time- machine. Susanne Leon won. Trax timing machine. Home” ´´A discussion on different approaches to repairing Clock Workshop Instructor Retires aging modern floor clocks in the home, as well as The George McNeil’s Potomac Guild’s clock repair how to tell when a clock is “worn out.” workshop lost a wealth of experience with the retire- ´´Explore an in-depth survey of the most common ment of Ewell Smith at the conclusion of the fall 2016 problems with the Hermle, Urgos, Keininger, and session. Ewell took on the instructor position in 2013 Jauch movements that are solvable on site, allow- after participating in the program for many years. ing participants to learn how to troubleshoot any Ewell is still a member of the guild. His easy-going of these movements within the first five minutes of style and ability to decipher what was wrong with entering a home. student projects will be missed. We wish him well in ´´Mr. Gainey will demonstrate his approach to ser- his retirement. vicing the floor clock in the client’s home on an —David Staib actual clock in the classroom.

Speakers Forum–Michael Gainey, CC21, “Know your Value” ssThis class, meant to be both inspirational and mo- tivational, is designed to increase the income of horologists by helping the clockmaker and watch- maker better appreciate their value to the consumer.

Potomac Guild December Meeting The December meeting of the Potomac Guild was the annual Christmas dinner. Many of the spouses attended. Vernon Gale and his wife Janet brought in a barbecue dinner including baked beans, a salad, mac and cheese, and soft drinks. Carol Conahan sent Ewell Smith

Horological Times 49 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter News

screwdrivers. For February Ryan Johnson demonstrat- ed wheel cutting on his Derbyshire lathe. He ex- plained his equipment set- up, showed how it worked by cutting a few teeth, and enumerated some of Ryan Johnson demonstrated the problems which could his gear cutting setup to Potomac Guild members. occur. The guild always in- George McNeil’s Potomac Guild member Ryan Johnson purchased a used, small milling machine, a special sliding cludes a show-and-tell, the 50-50 drawing, and any mate- table for the machine, a Sherline computer-controlled rial wants/needs. Come early (6:30) for an informal get-to- indexing/rotary table, a limited set of gear cutters, and a variety of other incidental parts. gether with other members and pizza dinner. HAV photos courtesy of George Evans and Loupes & Tweezers. GUILD OFFICERS HAV OFFICERS President David Staib President: John Polk Vice President John Enloe (Acting) Phone: 804-335-5006 Secretary Barry Boling Email: [email protected] Treasurer Dick Riegel First Vice President: Billy Best Phone: 540-797-2357 Email: [email protected] 2nd Vice President: Joe Jabbour Phone: 845-325-5071 Email: [email protected] Treasurer: Stan Palen Phone: 540-775-7027 Email: [email protected] Secretary: Bob Stone Phone: 703-591-6690 Email: [email protected] Loupes and Tweezers Editor: Lloyd Lehn “Columbia is home to one of the Phone: 703-256-2684 world’s only horology museums” Email: [email protected] - Smithsonian Magazine Loupes and Tweezers The Smithsonian UPCOMING Distributor: John Enloe Magazine ranked CLASSES Phone: 703-425-1524 Columbia, PA, among the top 20 best small towns to Evaluating Time: Research, Email: [email protected] visit in the United States, Identify, and Value Wrist in part, because of its and Pocket Watches strength in history. April 29 - May 1, 2017 Luxury or Lie: How to George McNeil’s Potomac Guild The National Watch (A Guild of the Horological Association of Virginia) Identify Genuine Watches & Clock Museum in May 20-22, 2017 Columbia includes 19th-century American Contact the Education Department Stan Palen provided the March program for the guild at 717.684.8261, ext. 237 clocks and watches and or [email protected]. meeting which was about the correct way to sharpen timekeepers from around Check out www.museumoftime.org the world. for more info.

50 April 2017 Classified Ads help wanted help wanted for sale

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Horological Times 51 Classified Ads for sale wanted to buy tradespeople

Complete Overhaul ETA 7750 (All Versions) Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts $45.00 one year warranty. Paying for Valjoux 69, 72, 88 up to $800.00, Venus Extra charge applies to parts, shipping and insurance. 178 $300, Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, Complete Overhaul ETA 2892, 2824 Movado 90, 95 $300.00. Also buying high-grade (All Versions) $30.00 one year warranty. movements and parts. Dean Sarnelle Extra charge applies to parts, shipping and insurance. 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401 Over 7000 repaired for Richemont USA from 2004 to 2013 1-866-877-8164 Contact: [email protected] [email protected] 704-287-2980 After 4:00 PM ETZ

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52 April 2017 Classified Ads tradespeople services

DENNIS KAYE SERVICE/SALES OF TIMING AND 2017 CLASSIFIED POLICY Advanced Clock Repair Services CLEANING MACHINES AWCI HT classified advertising fees/rates and minimum 108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513 Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster schedule remain the same as last year. We request that Call 540-SERVICE (737-8423) Over 19 years experience Now Restoring Painted & Silvered Dials! Quick repairs & reasonable prices you put all classified advertising on a credit card. We Porcelain Dial Restoration www.timemachinerepair.com accept MasterCard, Visa, American Express and Discover. Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or If you require a physical invoice and 30-day terms, your Platform Escapement Repair [email protected] rates will be higher due to the additional costs incurred in Atmos Parts & Service labor, supplies and carrying charges. Kundo / ATO Coil Repair Large Stock of Electric Motors All Types Clocks Serviced ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE HT Classified Rates for 2017: Prompt Reliable Service . . . Guaranteed™ We are Factory Authorized Service for: For Credit Card Payments… For Paper Invoicing… Large Supply of Watch Movements & • Greiner VIBROGRAF • $1.10 per word • $1.20 per word and Parts for LeCoultre, Wittnauer & Longines • TICK-O-PRINT & L&R • Classified “Display” ads We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate • Classified “Display”ads Call or Visit at dialrepair.com recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. with art borders: $47.50 with art/borders: $52.25 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 per col. inch (2.25” wide) per col inch (2.25”wide) Used Equipment Bought & Sold • Blind ads – add’l $15.00 • Blind ads – add’l $16.50 For Information per ad YOUR SHERLINE SOURCE 415-479-8960 per ad LATHES MILLS TOOLING www.electronicinstrumentservice.com 5% to 15% OFF LIST Minimum Schedule: 3-Month Minimum PETE CRONOS Advertising studies show it takes over 3 viewings for readers PETESTOOLS.COM • [email protected] to recognize specifics in your ad. 870-974-2583 DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, Deadline: 30 days before first of month for FINEST QUALITY, month you plan to run. quantity works welcome. Note: If you place a recruitment ad on the www.awci.com Specialize on changing dial feet Career Center as a combo online/HT ad, there’s no need Watch Parts Fabrication: positions to fit the quartz movement. to resend the ad to us. The website system is automatic. I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE To Place Your Ad: modern. MATT HENNING CW, 413-549-1950 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA 98032 253-852-5125 Email: [email protected] Fax: 513-367-1414 or www.henningwatches.com Call: 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)/513-367-9800

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Horological Times Advertising Policy & Editorial Policy Advertising Policy for the Horological Times for publication. The approval procedures are available from AWCI and at www.awci.com. The appearance, reference, The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the or advertisement of any product or service in this publication shall not be deemed an endorsement of such products, publisher’s standards. The publisher may, at the publisher’s sole discretion and for any reason and without notice, methods or services by AWCI, its directors, officers, or employees. decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or Publisher’s Standards rebated to the advertiser. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agree AWCI makes a concerted effort not to publish any advertisement which promotes or depicts practices not in harmony to assume liability for all content of advertisements printed. The advertiser will also accept responsibility for any with our professional Standards & Practices for Watchmakers & Clockmakers. The advertisement of generic parts, claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the publisher. Printed articles may also be used by the publisher tools, and materials is allowed when such advertisement does not possess any trademarked image, brand, or name. without permission expressly sought, or payment made, on www.awci.com, the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Advertisers can refer to the items by name, function, quality, size, and description. Genuine parts can be advertised as Facebook page, or via other media. such in accordance with the advertiser’s relationship and agreement with the manufacturer. Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, but reflect the opinions of the authors only and do not We encourage advertisers to reach out to our members and market goods and services which will help them to represent the views of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. professionally service their clients and represent themselves in a way which will “reflect positively on him or her, on the AWCI reserves the right to edit all submitted materials and is under no obligation to accept any submitted materials AWCI, and the entire watch and clock repair industry, including all of its participants.” – AWCI Code of Ethics

Horological Times 53 awci directory ADVERTISERS’ INDEX BOARD OF DIRECTORS

AWCI Courses Officers Fellows 513-367-9800 8 Fred T. White, CMW21: President * Robert F. Bishop [email protected] * James H. Broughton British Horological Institute Fred S. Burckhardt bhi.co.uk 36 Joe Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Vice President [email protected] Alice B. Carpenter David A. Christianson Cas-Ker Co. Henry Kessler: Treasurer and IAB Director 1-800-487-0408 21 * George Daniels [email protected] Wes Door Clocks Magazine Aaron Recksiek, CW21: Secretary Jerry Faier clocksmagazine.com 34 [email protected] * Henry B. Fried * Josephine F. Hagans ClockParts Immediate Past President Manuel Yazijian, CMW21 * Orville R. Hagans ClockParts.com 36 * Ewell D. Hartman [email protected] * Harold J. Herman Eckcells Watch Materials and Tools Directors * J.M. Huckabee 603-726-7646 34 Sergio Berrios, CW21: Affiliate Chapter Director * Gerald G. Jaeger G-S Crystals [email protected] Jack Kurdzionak gssupplies.com 36 Joshua Kroman, CW21 * Benjamin Matz [email protected] * Robert A. Nelson HAV Peter Pronko, CW21 * Hamilton E. Pease havhome.org 44 * Archie B. Perkins [email protected] Antoine Simonin Craig Stone, CW21 * William O. Smith, Jr. Jules Borel & Co. [email protected] 1-800-776-6858 ...inside front cover Milton C. Stevens Peter Whittle Dennis Warner NAWCC [email protected] * Marvin E. Whitney nawcc.org 50 *Deceased Renata American Watchmakers- 800-527-0719 ...back cover Clockmakers Institute Richemont 701 Enterprise Dr. richemont.com ...inside back cover Harrison, OH 45030 Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI Witschi Electronic Ltd. 513-367-9800 witschi.com 15 Fax: 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com

WE THANK THE IAB AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the institute and the industry.

54 April 2017 Richemont owns several of the world’s leading luxury companies in the field of luxury goods, with particular strengths in jewelry, luxury watches and other luxury accessories.

We are seeking talented and qualified Watchmakers to work for our brands located throughout the United States and Canada in our Boutiques and Service Centers.

Responsibilities

 Must be qualified to perform services which include Complete Maintenance and Quick Services on calibers that include o Quartz o Mechanical o Automatic o Chronograph o Complications  Diagnosis  Case Preparation  Achieve and maintain Production and Quality Objectives

Qualifications

 Accredited Certification  Experience working with luxury brands preferred  Strong attention to detail, with the ability to handle multiple tasks  Ability to work in a fast-paced environment  Strong diagnostic skills  Good customer service and communication skills  Knowledge of SAP System would be a strong advantage

We offer competitive compensation, on-boarding program, benefits and relocation assistance. To be considered, please submit your resume and profile on www.Richemont.com or by fax to 817-283-2304. 0417 HT BigBlueWatch CRTime_OL.indd 1 1/31/17 10:17 AM