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THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 VINCECAMUTO.COM

THEIR DAY MICHAEL KORS KARL’S WORLD AND ELIE TAHARI THE KARL LAGERFELD BRAND ARE HONORED AT EXPANDS INTO CHINA AS PART OF ITS GLOBAL RETAIL ROLLOUT. RESPECTIVE EVENTS. PAGE 4 PAGES 16 AND 18

FIXING THE MISSTEPS Lafl ey on P&G Beauty: ‘A Sense of Urgency’

By EVAN CLARK SPRING 2014 A.G. LAFLEY knows he has something to prove dur- ing his second tour as chief executive offi cer of The INSPIRATIONS Procter & Gamble Co. WWD NEW YORK “We’re in the show-me stage on beauty,” said COLLECTIONS Lafl ey, who laid out more of his vision for the con- sumer products giant at the Barclays Back-to-School THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY investor conference in Boston Wednesday. “We hit a huge stall with the [beauty] industry when the fi nancial crisis and recession hit,” he said. “And we didn’t come out of it, and we own that and we are on it.” The ceo is focused on two things in beauty, turning around the $2 billion Olay division and getting it grow- ing in its “critical core markets,” while also reenergiz- ing the U.S. market for Pantene — a $3 billion business. Lafl ey, who has also served as chairman and presi- dent since taking back the reins from Bob McDonald in May, acknowledged that the beauty business can’t turn on a dime and that its retail customers have al- ready made their buys for the next 10 months. That means it will be some time before the ceo can fully realize his plan to revitalize the business. “It’s coming and I’m bringing a real sense of ur- gency,” he said. Lafl ey tried to a give feel for the trajectory and his- tory of the $20 billion beauty business, which he said was put together 13 years ago with “odds and ends.” “In 2000 Apple was a $7 billion company,” he said. “We had a $7 billion collection of beauty brands. [In] 2007 Apple was a $23 billion company. We had a $22 billion- plus collection of beauty brands. We took Oil of Olay and turned it from a few hundred million into $2 billion.” Lafl ey also described Pantene as “an afterthought” in the company’s 1985 acquisition of Richardson-Vicks Inc. “It was this dinky little brand that showed up on department store shelves with a plastic cap on a plastic package,” he said. “We’ve turned it into a $3 billion-plus SEE PAGE 14 Stella and Gwyneth Talk Their Goop Line

By SHARON EDELSON

A COLLABORATION between Gwyneth Paltrow and Stella McCartney seems like a no-brainer. The only Rachel Whiteread, question is, what took them so long? Untitled (Hive) II, 2009 “We complement each other,” Paltrow said. “It was the right time. We’re very close friends. We were bringing two worlds together and it was important not to force them.” The BFFs created a capsule collection for Goop, Paltrow’s Web site devoted to a healthy lifestyle, beautiful things to covet and buy and delicious food. The collection consists of such exclusive styles as a classic black blazer, charcoal gray knit jumpsuit, black jean and black wool trouser. McCartney’s newly introduced Beckett handbag in black, gray and white will also be available. Prices start at $795. House Proud “It makes perfect sense. Stella and I keep our [col- “Rendering the house modern.” It’s a fi tting motto for Francisco Costa, who is laborations] to a minimum,” Paltrow said, explaining celebrating his 10-year anniversary at the design helm of Calvin Klein Collection. that both are extremely selective about the projects they choose. Costa continues to build the house, looking to this resin sculpture by artist “For me, it’s trying to fi nd the ones that fi t” with my Rachel Whiteread as his spring inspiration. For more, see pages 10 to 12. company, said McCartney, who has created capsule lines for Gap Kids and H&M, and designs the ongoing Adidas by Stella McCartney collection. The women teased fans last week with a post on Goop.com’s Facebook page that revealed the name of the project, Stella McCartney x Goop, and the Sept. 12 launch date, but nothing else. Stella McCartney x Goop is part of the Goop Collection, the e-commerce component of the Web site, launched in 2012. It offers an ever-changing PHOTO COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND LUHRING AUGUSTINE, NEW YORK SEE PAGE 14 2 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 WWD.COM Peter Som Links With Kohl’s THE BRIEFING BOX has the talent to be able to bring what I want- By SHARON EDELSON ed to bring into this price point. It was excit- IN TODAY’S WWD ing because I didn’t have to compromise.” PETER SOM is the latest guest designer in Som said his only other collaboration was Kohl’s DesigNation series, where designers with Anthropologie. He created a colorful, A scene from take inspiration from an international locale. print-heavy line that launched in May as part Lisa Perry’s Som drew creative influence from a re- of the retailer’s Made in Kind initiative. “It spring show. cent trip to St. Barth’s, which he called, “one was a different price point and a different For more, see of the most beautiful locations in the world. aesthetic,” Som said. WWD.com I love the beach and I’m a Francophile, so I “I love print, pattern and color,” Som said love the culture as well.” His collection chan- of his DesigNation collaboration. “Some nels the laid-back, luxe lifestyle of St. Barth’s, of the prints in the collection are based on from “colorful designer boutiques to chic cot- things in St. Barth’s, done in my slightly ab- tages lining the harbor.” stract way. There are palm trees and flow- “Peter Som has a fresh point of view on ers. It’s done through the filter of what I modern fashion that enables him to blend love. The collection has a nice easy feeling, sophistication with elegance,” said Don which I think is the way women dress now. Brennan, Kohl’s chief merchandising officer. We have some great maxidresses. There are Som’s collection will be available exclu- bomber-style jackets and great jersey pieces. sively at Kohl’s and kohls.com in spring. It’s effortless dressing. For me, it was great Prices range from $36 to $88. working with Kohl’s. It shows it’s possible to GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY “My decision to partner with Kohl’s was create effortless style at a great price point.” A sketch a way for me to make my clothes more ac- DesigNation was introduced in fall Procter & Gamble Co. chief executive officer A.G. Lafley said of a Peter cessible,” Som said. “It allows me to reach a 2012 with Narciso Rodriguez, followed by Som look broader audience, but not sacrifice fashion. Derek Lam in spring 2013 and Catherine the firm’s beauty business stalled during the recession and for Kohl’s. [Kohl’s] is such a huge manufacturer and it Malandrino in fall 2013. that he’s in the process of restarting it. Page 1

Stella McCartney and Gwyneth Paltrow have created a capsule collection for Goop, Paltrow’s Web site. Page 1

The Webster to Open Bal Harbour Unit Apax Partners, the owner of the Karl Lagerfeld business, just Many of the same brands grateful that the high-end brands By opened its first boutiques. Page 4 JEAN E. PALMIERI will be carried at the new she carries at The Webster did not store, along with Pierre Hardy, resist her move to open a store in Belk Inc. achieved double-digit earnings growth in the THE WEBSTER, the trendsetting Stella McCartney and Proenza Bal Harbour, even though many second quarter. Page 4 South Beach retailer, has signed Schouler. It will also offer exclu- either have their own stores there a deal to open its second store, a sives or capsule collections from or are carried in the larger de- Halston Heritage has set up shop in New York’s SoHo 2,600-square-foot women’s-only Calvin Klein, Cédric Charlier, partment stores. neighborhood in a 3,000-square-foot space. Page 6 boutique at the tony Bal Harbour Suno, Charlotte Olympia, Eddie When the store opens in late Shops on Collins Avenue in Bal Borgo and Piamita, she said. November or early December, it Harbour, Fla. “It’s a very exciting oppor- will be patterned after the second Ittierre is reviewing its portfolio of licenses and Since opening in Miami’s tunity for us to open in Bal floor of The Webster, with vintage streamlining its structure. Page 6 South Beach neighborhood in Harbor,” said Heriard Dubreuil. furniture and wallpapers. 2009, The Webster has carved out “Geographically, it makes sense Down the road, Heriard Andreas Melbostad will add men’s wear design to his a strong niche with its sharply to me. It’s far enough from South Dubreuil said she would also like responsibilities at Diesel Black Gold. Page 14 edited selection of designer ap- Beach and it attracts an inter- to one day open a store in New parel and accessories, luxury national crowd that doesn’t nec- York City. “We have plans for New Michael Kors was honored at The Museum at FIT’s Couture atmosphere and top-notch ser- essarily come to South Beach. York, but it will take some time Council luncheon on Wednesday. Page 16 vice. The 20,000-square-foot [Shoppers there] will appreciate — maybe one-and-a-half to two store carries more than 95 men’s all the values we try to achieve years. This is the first step and I Belstaff has decided to cancel its spring presentation in and women’s designer brands in- with our customer service, qual- want to take my time. Finding the New York, which was to take place Sunday evening. Page 16 cluding Chanel, Céline, Lanvin, ity and selection of brands.” best location is critical.” Givenchy, Saint Laurent, Alaïa, She said, “Bal Harbour is a Heriard Dubreuil and her Details on Wednesday held “Tech & Tastemakers,” where Balenciaga, Alexander Wang and very special place and is home partner, Milan Vukmirovic, start-up founders and marketers took center stage. Page 19 Alexander McQueen. to some of the most beautiful took over The Webster, a 1939 Because of the limited size brands in the world.” In addi- example of architect Henry Eton today will host parties in three of its stores to of the Bal Harbour store, Laure tion to Neiman Marcus and Saks Hohauser’s Art Deco style, to commemorate its 85th anniversary. Page MW2 Heriard Dubreuil, chief execu- Fifth Avenue, the open-air mall open their store five years ago. tive officer, opted to carry only includes stores from Alexander Last year, The Webster was fea- Dior Homme women’s wear. The mix will be McQueen, Balenciaga, Chanel, tured at Target as part of the is extending a strategy of installing site-specific “extremely curated and luxuri- Fendi, Prada and Ralph Lauren. mass retailer’s new Street of artworks in key retail stores to elevate the brand. Page MW2 ous,” she said. Heriard Dubreuil said she was Shops concept. Ralph Lauren is opening his first Shoe Salon at the Rhinelander Mansion flagship in New York. Page MW8

Dockers on Tuesday celebrated the launch of its new Alpha True Religion Taps Harvey as Creative Director collection in New York’s Meatpacking District. Page MW8 team and roll up his sleeves to heritage baggage carried by a lot By ARNOLD J. KARR turn a vision into reality.” of brands. True Religion has been ON WWD.COM For the past eight years, inspired by many of the great el- True Religion Apparel Inc. Harvey has headed his own ements of the denim world, but has brought in former Levi’s London-based consulting busi- open to a new definition. RUNWAY: New York Fashion week kicked off with Lisa Perry merchandising executive Gary ness, Gary Harvey Creative, as “We will keep the brand den- and Josie Natori. For more collections, see WWD.com. Harvey as creative director. owner and creative director, im-centric but build around that With the appointment, the with a client roster that has in- with aspirational fashion prod- Vernon, Calif.-based premium cluded Levi’s, Adidas, Chanel, ucts,” he continued. “It’s a fan- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS denim brand has filled the two Diesel, DKNY, Nike and tastically respected brand in the [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. posts previously held by True Revlon. Prior to that, he spent marketplace, and we can expand COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Religion founder Jeffrey Lubell, five years as creative director of that by delivering the most up-to- VOLUME 206, NO. 47. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two who stepped down as chief ex- Levi’s Europe and helped to en- date fashion, fits and styles for additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance ecutive officer and creative di- gineer the brand’s turnaround the customers we have today and Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, rector in March as the company on the continent. those we want tomorrow.” Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, tested the acquisition waters. “Gary will be the creative vi- In just a little more than a and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver TowerBrook Capital agreed to sionary for this brand, the person month on the job, Conn said he Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North acquire True Religion for $835 who sets the identity with respect has been particularly impressed Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. million in May and completed its to everything related to product by the “depth and strength” of Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or purchase in July, at which time and at every touch point the con- the firm’s retail channel, which inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription David Conn became ceo. sumer has with the brand,” Conn includes e-commerce as well as term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. Harvey reports to Lynne told WWD, indicating stores, the 130 stores in the U.S. and 33 in You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt Koplin, chief merchandising offi- e-commerce site at truereligion- international markets. In the first of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request cer of True Religion, who lauded brandjeans.com, advertising and six months of this year, while still for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at his “depth of experience in the social media will all fall under publicly held, the company gener- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that denim and apparel industries, his purview. ated revenues of $237.4 million, we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at along with an impressive talent Harvey called the opportu- 12.1 percent above the prior year. P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED for both men’s and women’s de- nities for the 11-year-old True Conn said he expects to make ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER sign. He is able to combine the Religion “endless. We’re still rel- senior-level appointments in the UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR highest level of strategic think- atively young, not hamstrung by areas of merchandising and mar- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A ing with an ability to inspire our history and don’t have a lot of the keting in the coming months. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2013 Maybelline LLC. 4 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 Lagerfeld Begins China Store Rollout Belk Earnings Heading the effort is Andrew Cai, light mainly handbags and shoes. By MILES SOCHA appointed president and ceo of Karl Eager to build a signature business to Climb 11.3% Lagerfeld Greater China, overseeing the match Lagerfeld’s outsized personality PARIS — Transporting a megadesigner business on the Mainland, Hong Kong, and fashion reputation, Apax recently re- By ARNOLD J. KARR name into a major untapped market, Macau, Taiwan and Singapore. positioned the brand and its rock ’n’ roll- Apax Partners is out to spark Karl mania Cai joined Lagerfeld from Burberry, flavored collections in the burgeoning BELK INC. achieved double-digit earn- in Greater China. where he was senior vice president in masstige and contemporary price zones. ings growth in the second quarter as The owner of the Karl Lagerfeld busi- charge of the business in China. Cai also The company initiated its retail drive strength in e-commerce helped it over- ness just opened its first boutiques — a worked for 10 years at Louis Vuitton in earlier this year, planting its first new- come decelerating retail conditions. flagship location in Beijing look stores — in graphic In the three months ended Aug. 3, and a more compact unit in black and white, with lots net income expanded 11.3 percent to Shanghai — the first volleys of high-tech amenities — in $30.5 million from $27.4 million in the in a rollout that could see Paris, Amsterdam and sev- 2012 quarter. Excluding onetime gains around 40 stores sprout over eral cities in Germany. and charges in both periods, profits the next five years. Righi trumpeted the rose 14 percent to $30.9 million. Disclosing the new stra- broad appeal of the brand Revenues increased 3.6 percent to tegic thrust in an exclusive across generations, noting $899.5 million from $867.9 million in interview, Lagerfeld chief that its two locations in the the prior-year period, with comparable executive officer Pier Paolo French capital — amidst sales up 3.2 percent. E-commerce sales, Righi said the company luxury brands in the tony not specified, were up 48.5 percent plans to capitalize on the Saint-Germain-des-Prés during the quarter, accounting for 1.3 German designer’s fame — neighborhood, and young, points of the comp increase. Gross mar- fanned by his very visible hipster boutiques in the gin pulled back a fraction, landing at work for Chanel and Fendi trendy Marais district — are 33.1 percent of sales from 33.3 percent. over decades — and tap performing strongly. “Although we continue to see a into curiosity about his sig- Righi has said that the softening retail environment, we are nature brand, which until Lagerfeld business has the pleased to report another quarter of now has been available potential to grow to 100 lo- sales and earnings growth driven in only in a small selection of The interior of the new Karl Lagerfeld store in Beijing. cations worldwide. part by the investments we are making department stores. He noted that Europe in the business,” said Tim Belk, chair- “It’s great for the consum- and China would be the man and chief executive officer. “While er to see the breadth of the main thrusts for its retail those investments impact our short- Karl Lagerfeld world,” Righi push, although the company term profitability, we are confident they said, citing a “very positive” is also looking at the Middle will position us well for the future.” initial reaction to the two East and Russia. The Charlotte, N.C.-based company, mall-based units in China, To wit: On Wednesday the largest privately held department which opened over the sum- night, Lagerfeld headed to store in the U.S., is in the midst of its mer. The unit in Shanghai’s Munich to christen a two-lev- 125th anniversary celebration and has Jing An Kerry Centre spans el, 1,940-square-foot signature spread its investments among mer- 1,100 square feet, while the boutique at 5 Maffeistrasse. chandising, marketing, branding, e- location in Beijing’s Charter The store carries a Bavarian- commerce and service initiatives. The Shopping Centre is 2,400 flavored capsule collection company currently has 301 stores in square feet and was feted The facade of the new Karl Lagerfeld store in Shanghai. in honor of the city’s famous 16 Southern states and is looking to hit with a celebrity-studded Oktoberfest celebrations, $6 billion in revenues in five years. It party attended by the likes of which kick off Sept. 21. has continued to update its stores and, American actors Rachel Bilson and Hayden Asia, as retail director and merchandis- Last month, an 850-square-foot Lagerfeld under the marketing theme “Modern. Christensen, model Du Juan and Chinese ing director. He holds an MBA from elite unit dedicated to his Lagerfeld men’s line, Southern. Style.,” has picked up its mer- film stars Deng Chao and Bai Baihe. French school INSEAD. licensed to Miltenberg, Germany-based F.D. chandising and marketing game with “Our expectations for China are very “China has the potential to be the larg- Fashion Herrenmode GmbH, opened in expanded exclusive offerings, such as high because what we also see is a new est market for the brand,” Righi said. The Munich in the Fünf Höfe shopping complex. Cynthia Cynthia Rowley for women and emerging consumer group,” Righi said. company plans to initially target first-tier Given the early termination of a licens- Made Cam Newton for men, and greater “There’s a younger luxury consumer, a cities in China, planting multiple locations ing contact with Italy’s Ittierre (see re- visibility, including its sponsorship of young fashion consumer that is looking for in those before heading out to the regions. lated story, page 6), which manufactured the 12th season of “Project Runway.” not-so-established brands…not the brands Assortments in the Chinese units are a small portion of Karl Lagerfeld collec- The company identified men’s and their parents are wearing, but something similar to Lagerfeld boutiques in Europe, tions, it is understood all products under children’s apparel, activewear and new and fresh that gives them access to a spanning women’s and men’s ready-to- that label will now be produced in house. women’s contemporary sportswear and luxury world but in an accessible way.” wear, leather goods, shoes, watches, eye- While in Munich, the designer also dresses as standout categories during Over the past six months, Righi has wear and gift items — plus some special attended an advance screening of a new the quarter. built up an in-house team of about 20 eveningwear and cocktail dresses, to meet Vox documentary by television journalist For the first half of the year, net in- people in China to spearhead the expan- high expectations for luxury. Martina Neuen that compares fashion to come fell 13.3 percent to $58.7 million as sion directly, with another four stores “We will also be opening some acces- religion, with Lagerfeld portrayed as its revenues grew 4.4 percent to $1.86 billion. slated to open in the next six months, in- sories-focused stores in China as well,” pope. The four-hour program is slated to Comps for the six months were up 4.2 per- cluding a second location in Beijing. Righi added, noting these would spot- air on Saturday night. cent, greater than the quarterly pace.

Justin Cooke likens to “Pinterest for Cooke video,” and Tissimans, the old- Former Topshop CMO Launches Innovate7 est tailor in London. Cooke declined to reveal. be limited to the digital realm. Tissimans was shuttered in By RACHEL STRUGATZ Later this year, Cooke will Cooke also wants to breed a dif- February after more than 400 also unveil a proprietary tech- ferent sort of office culture. And years in business, but Chinese JUSTIN COOKE is looking to cre- nology platform based around a so, two days of the week the team billionaire Ricky Lam has since ate the first “disruption agency.” concept he came up with in 2011. will have no set tasks and will in- purchased it. Innovate7 will play The former Topshop chief This project has also found back- stead be encouraged to visit muse- a full-service role at Tissimans, marketing officer will today ers, including a private venture ums, exhibits or conduct research. which used to outfit the British open the doors of Innovate7, capitalist and a leading global “I may say, ‘Let’s look at the TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY Royal Family, advising on prod- where he is founder and chief media group, which took a 19.9 concrete industry, what one idea most recently, Topshop, and al- uct range — think very-limited- executive officer. percent stake. Cooke again de- could we create that would turn though he has one fashion cli- edition gold and diamond buttons “We think the biggest oppor- clined to identify the backers in that industry on its head over- ent so far, Cooke is keen on ex- with initials emblazed on them — tunity to disrupt is to disrupt advance of the launch. night?’” said Cooke. panding beyond the confines of and recruiting for key leadership the advertising agency model,” For Cooke, one of the great- Recently, Innovate7’s direc- the industry. He has his eye on roles within the company and de- 32-year-old Cooke told WWD on est risks for companies today tor of innovation and experience London’s Museum of Natural vising social media strategies. Wednesday, adding that the cur- is that they continue along the Nicola Peters, a former Burberry History and the Chelsea Football “The superwealthy are seeking rent advertising agency model path that provides them growth brand engagement marketing Club, a U.K.-based soccer team. something new, more exclusive hasn’t changed much in years. — at the moment — leaving manager, has been researching There’s also a deal in the than the previous ubiquitous logo- “We want to help them to embrace room for other organizations “to haptics — a technology that re- works with one of the world’s driven culture,” said Lam, chair- modern thinking, integrate rel- come in behind them and dis- lies on tactile feedback. leading print publications. Cooke man and owner of Tissimans Ltd. evant and innovative technology rupt their business model.” “I think it’s always been a and his team want to analyze “We want to create a British lux- that has a marketing and back-end “If we can think of the one thing challenge for brands to make a what things people pay to read ury brand right at the top of the purpose. We want to help them that would take market share away genuine connection through a on the publication’s Web site and pricing pyramid and that doesn’t shape more emotive experiences.” from their business, then why not medium that uses limited sens- what they won’t pay to read. exist, so there are no rules.” Cooke has pulled together a do it for them?” Cooke asked. es, but we believe it’s possible “[We want to figure out] how we Cooke’s vision isn’t entering team of six to work beside him, Innovate7 will help clients by evoking a feeling based on can close the gap between what unpopulated territory. Agencies with résumés that include stints renew their focus, design cam- emotional pressure points that the consumer sees and what the like Digital Brand Architects, at Nike, Burberry, Facebook, paigns and develop brand guide- unleash nostalgia,” Peters said. consumer purchases, so we can get Morpheus Media and Saturday Apple, Red Bull and the art lines. Although Cooke expects Until now, Cooke has spent an affiliate revenue,” he explained. London all work in the space — world. The venture is backed by most of his business to involve the his career at fashion brands like Clients already include video and with many of the industry’s private investors whose names online world, Innovate7 will not Stella McCartney, Burberry and, playlist service Rockpack, which top designers and brands.

6 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 WWD.COM Halston Heritage Adding Stores, E-commerce of Halston Heritage, on both the retail By RACHEL BROWN and wholesale fronts, as a top priority. The brand is sold at Harvey Nichols and LOS ANGELES — Halston Heritage is Harrods in the U.K., and Harvey Nichols branching out physically and digitally. in Hong Kong. The Middle East is an im- After opening its first stores ear- portant region, and Halston Heritage will lier this year in New York on Madison follow the Kuwait location with a store in Avenue and in Los Angeles at Beverly Dubai that’s slated to open in January. Center, the brand has set up shop in Worldwide, Halston Heritage is distrib- SoHo in a 3,000-square-foot space at 59 uted to 400 wholesale doors. Greene Street. The opening of the store, “We wanted it to have a global launch its fourth in the U.S., comes as the Los right away because a lot of brands start Angeles-based brand is spreading its re- in their own countries — whether in tail footprint at home and abroad, and Europe or in America — and when they preparing for the launch of an e-com- go overseas, they have to change some merce site in October. of their positioning because, many years On Greene Street, Halston chairman later, it doesn’t fit with the market they and chief executive officer Ben Malka are entering. We wanted to do this where said, “There are a lot of good brands it had a global presence and geared to around us that we feel are complementa- the same woman and at the same price ry to what we are doing. Of course, being point globally all at once,” said Malka. downtown and uptown is great. It allows Halston Heritage’s gowns are priced us to cater to the different customers that from $395 to $1,500; ready-to-wear retails are going to those areas.” for from $95 to $425, and shoes and day The SoHo store has design elements dresses range from $295 to $495. Malka similar to Halston Heritage’s existing said customers have gravitated to “al- stores — floating shelves to display foot- Halston Heritage most everything that is iconic Halston. wear and a handbag wall with a three- fall campaign images. Our shirtdresses have been a great suc- dimensional backdrop of intricate, ar- cess, whatever color or print and in chitectural squares, for example. But the any fabric. Our jumpsuits, one-pieces, store speaks to the location with unique Heritage is opening or has recently halters and beautiful gowns with a true details; for example, Halston Heritage opened stores in Kuwait, the Fashion Halston identity, they have really re- didn’t change the facade of bricks, glass Outlets of Chicago and the Cabazon sponded to those well.” windows and columns. Inside, exposed Outlets. There are five more stores With the diffusion Halston Heritage brick walls and wood-plank floors give planned for this year, at Fashion Island line still getting off the ground, Malka the store a loftlike vibe. Also inside the in Newport Beach, Calif.; Fashion Show isn’t quite ready to resurrect the Halston store is a 16-foot archival photograph in Las Vegas; Fashion Valley in San luxury line. “I just feel that we have a lot taken by Scott Heiser of a model wear- Diego; Westfield Valley Fair in Santa of work to do to get the consumer to rec- ing an original Halston design at Olympic “We’ve had an enormous conversion Clara, Calif., and the Tanger Outlets at ognize the brand the way we want it to be Tower, the former Halston headquarters. rate, much higher than we would have National Harbor in Washington. recognized before we go out and launch Halston Heritage’s sales performance thought. Almost half of the people who Including concessions, Halston Halston,” he said. “I would like to do it on Madison Avenue has Malka, who as- walk in buy. I’ve never seen anything Heritage will have 21 units by the end of today, but I’m going to do it when I feel sumed control of the company in 2011, like that. We are building a very strong the year, and Malka said it remains on our work is in a good position to make enthusiastic about the business it can do consumer base.” track to have at least 40 units in the next that move. We have to be cautious. I don’t in SoHo. At the Madison store, he said, In addition to the SoHo store, Halston three years. He views global expansion want to make a mistake.” Ittierre’s Lagerfeld Rue du Mail Label Suspended tations shifting over qual- License Terminated By MILES SOCHA ity, pricing and design con- siderations — and some By LUISA ZARGANI PARIS — Signaling chal- retail formats, notably spe- lenging times for inde- cialty stores, demonstrat- MILAN — Ittierre is reviewing its portfolio of licenses pendent labels, the owner ing fragility. and streamlining its structure. of Rue du Mail said the Chan said the year of Owner Antonio Bianchi told WWD that, after two seasons, fashion house helmed by reflection and analysis the Karl Lagerfeld Paris license has been mutually terminat- designer Martine Sitbon is meant to answer the ed before its five-year expiration date. He added that “rela- would take a sabbatical of question “How do we tions with the Lagerfeld Maison remain excellent.” at least one year. keep our creative integ- The entrepreneur also revealed that the C’N’C license “We want to step back rity in today’s business has not been renewed, following the termination of the and rethink our strategy,” environment, yet still be Costume National license. “We are focusing on our more- said Hong Kong-based in- more competitive?” profitable licenses,” he explained. vestor Jimmy Chan, who in Sitbon told WWD she Ittierre has been growing its portfolio of brands with 2006 established the brand, is in accordance with new licenses, including Aquascutum, Tommy Hilfiger named after the address of Chan’s plan to develop a Collection and Jean Paul Gaultier’s men’s collection and its Paris headquarters (as strategy “more adapted the designer’s new streetwear line for men and women, Sitbon’s prior partners still to today,” and would be Gaultier 2, in addition to Pierre Balmain, Guy Laroche own her name). closely involved in the and Galliano. The development leaves business rethink. In the “These are the brands we will bring forward and a gap in the calendar for meantime, she said, she grow,” said Bianchi, noting that he is working on renew- the next Paris Fashion would be free to pursue ing the GFF Ferré license. Ittierre also has a production Week, scheduled from other creative projects. agreement with Thierry Mugler. Additional licenses are Sept. 25 to Oct. 2. The fall At its peak, the Rue de not being evaluated before the restructuring of the com- DM by Rue du Mail col- Mail label — known for fash- pany, said Bianchi. lection, a commercial ions exuding a romantic yet A meeting between Bianchi and Italy’s minister of de- range with contemporary edgy Parisian cool — gen- velopment was held this week in Rome as Ittierre is plan- price points introduced erated revenues of about 3 ning to restructure the company and cut its workforce. two years ago, will be the Looks from Rue million euros, or $3.8 million “It was a very positive meeting. We inherited 700 workers last and will be shipped to du Mail’s fall at current exchange, and from the previous owner [Tonino Perna], but we cannot about 35 specialty stores. collection. shipped to close to 90 doors. have more than 300 employees, in proportion to our rev- The runway collection, GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY Chan acknowledged the enues, which last year totaled 130 million euros [$171.3 shown last February, will business has recently been million],” said Bianchi. not be produced. loss-making, yet over its life span managed to erase Bianchi, who also owns innerwear and beachwear pro- About 30 employees will be affected, though around 80 percent of its debt. He also said the runway ducer Albisetti SpA, took control of Ittierre in 2011, after al- Chan noted that many could be hired back. His com- collection had “stabilized” in recent years and demon- most two years of government-backed bankruptcy protection. pany, Semeiotics Inc., owns the sprawling Rue de strated slow but steady growth, climbing back to about Bianchi lamented “the absence of politicians and so- Mail property. 50 wholesale clients. cial support [since then]. Entrepreneurs must be prac- The entrepreneur acknowledged that the 2008 fi- Semeiotics also invests in design technology, of- tical and make their own decisions.” Bianchi said he is nancial crisis dealt a destabilizing blow to the fledg- fers consulting services, operates Evisu stores in seeking an industrial partner and is in talks with several ling label, which had reached profitability after its Hong Kong and produces educational materials. parties, expecting to ink an agreement in the short term. third season. Chan noted he’s winding up an 18-month involve- Bianchi is expected to start talking with members of the Moreover, he said the fashion market has changed ment with Aganovich, a four-year-old label that he as- unions on Thursday. “There is no time to waste,” he said. radically since that downturn, with consumer expec- sisted in its relocation from London to Paris. Culture. Fashion. Quality.

The Luxury Issue November 3, 2013 Reservations Deadline: September 19 Materials Deadline: September 26 To advertise, please contact Meredith Kopit Levien [email protected] 212 556 1149 nytimes.com/tmagazine A Unique 55,000 SF Flagship Opportunity Numerous possible divisions allow for Retail spaces ranging in size from 1,500 SF to 38,500 SF and Office spaces from 5,800 SF to 40,000 SF 200’ of wraparound Retail frontage www.837washington.com 7,000 SF of outdoor terrace space #837washington Developers:

For Retail Inquiries: For Office Inquiries: Alexandra Frangos Daniel L. Levine Jason T. Greenstein +1 212 529 7424 +1 212 372 2319 +1 212 372 2349 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 10 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 Designer Inspirations

ENTER THE DESIGNER DREAM WORLD, WHERE VISIONS OF ROMANCE AND ADVENTURE ARE CELEBRATED FOR SPRING. — LAUREN MCCARTHY

“Superimpose.” — NARCISO RODRIGUEZ ▲

“My favorite piece in the recent pre-Raphaelite

Y ANDERS EDSTROM FOR ANOTHER MAGAZINE Y show at the Tate Museum was one of ‘The Holy Grail Tapestries’ (by Edward Burne-Jones, from Morris & “Dot calm.” Co. 1890). How cool is it that Jimmy Page owns it?” — OSCAR DE LA RENTA ▲ — ANNA SUI ▲

“SS14 is inspired by gravel.” — KATE AND LAURA MULLEAVY, RODARTE

“Cargo Culte.” ▲ — VICTORIA VICTORIA BECKHAM SUI BY EDWARD BURNE-JONES/COURTESY OF ANNA SUI; “RODARTE, CATHERINE OPIE, ALEX SOTH” BY JRP|RINGIER, ALEX SOTH, 2011; BECKHAM B JRP|RINGIER, OPIE, ALEX SOTH” BY CATHERINE OF ANNA SUI; “RODARTE, BURNE-JONES/COURTESY EDWARD SUI BY — GILLES MENDEL, J.MENDEL WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 11 WWD.COM

SPRING 2014 PART THREE NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

“Hollywood goddesses… Ava, Lana and Jane.” “Ethereal bodies.” — DENNIS BASSO — ZAC POSEN ▲

“Distortion.” — LAZARO HERNANDEZ AND JACK MCCOLLOUGH, PROENZA SCHOULER

— RALPH LAUREN

“Art and Athleticism SOVFOTO/UIG VIA GETTY IMAGES BY GIER), 2010; KORS Soft and Structured Sensual and Sporty” — VERA WANG

FOR MORE DESIGNER INSPIRATIONS, SEE WWD.com/ fashion-news.

“This collection is about wearable elegance; the woman we design for is somewhat of an adventurer; creating her own path.” “Summer romance.” — KATIE HOLMES AND ▲

— MICHAEL KORS JEANNE YANG, HOLMES & YANG (ZÜRICH: JRP RIN GUYTON: BLACK PAINTINGS WADE 1901; SCHOULER BY LARCHE, FRANCOIS-RAOUL POSEN BY SUNSET BOULEVARD/CORBIS; BASSO, 12 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 WWD.COM SPRING 2014

PART THREE “The architectural NEW YORK COLLECTIONS soft lines and curves of Brasília.” — ELIE TAHARI

Designer Inspirations KASMIN GALLERY AND PAUL OF THE ARTIST “Romy Schneider in ‘La Piscine.’” — TORY BURCH

FOR MORE DESIGNER “Gravity-defying grace.” INSPIRATIONS, SEE — BIBHU MOHAPATRA WWD.com/ fashion-news. “Soft

Geometry.” “Modern “Aura.” — RICHARD CHAI, — PRABAL GURUNG, ICB RICHARD CHAI LOVE safari mixed with ethereal elements.” — RACHEL ZOE “Elegant. Clean. Modern.” — WES GORDON ; MARCHESA BY EDWARD LADELL; ALTUZARRA BY CLAUDE LALANNE, CHANDELIER FOR ALEXANDRE IOLAS, CA. 1973, GALVANIZED COPPER, COURTESY COPPER, LALANNE, CLAUDE BY CHANDELIER FOR ALEXANDRE IOLAS, CA. 1973, GALVANIZED LADELL; ALTUZARRA EDWARD BY ; MARCHESA

“Duality.” “Curiosity.” — ANDREAS MELBOSTAD, — GEORGINA CHAPMAN DIESEL BLACK GOLD AND KEREN CRAIG, MARCHESA

“The photographs of Jacques Henri Lartigue — a world of sophistication and privilege, seen with the wonder of a child.” — MARK BADGLEY AND JAMES MISCHKA, “Gryphon.” BADGLEY MISCHKA — JOSEPH ALTUZARRA, ALTUZARRA BURCH BY JEAN-PIERRE BONNOTTE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES; MISCHKA BY DREES/GETTY IMAGES; TAHARI BY PAULO FRIDMAN/GETTY IMAGES PAULO BY DREES/GETTY JEAN-PIERRE BONNOTTE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES; TAHARI IMAGES; MISCHKA BY BY BURCH WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 13 WWD.COM

Josie Natori Lisa Perry DKNY Men Michael Organic by Bastian John Patrick

Tia Cibani

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway. New York Collections AND WE’RE OFF! FASHION WEEK GOT STARTED EARLY ONCE AGAIN, WITH A FULL RUN OF WEDNESDAY SHOWS.

Josie Natori: For her first runway sweater gave the collection an to mind shades of Dsquared2 Tia Cibani: Forties film noir show, Josie Natori channeled unusual sexy stride. — with short swim trunks, provided the starting point for the splashy sophistication of lightweight tennis sweaters Tia Cibani’s collection, but the Thirties Hollywood glamour. DKNY Men: The clean and and upscale riffs on gymwear; designer had a second impulse Beginning on a neutral minimal DNA of DKNY Men clever Michael Bastian by after a recent trip to Mexico, note, she showed matching was updated this season with Stubbs & Wootton slippers hence the strong colors. separates with the Eastern a hint of sporty chic via high- anchored many of the outfits. Disparate as the two themes accents — kimono sleeves, tech fabrics, i.e., nylon-pieced The overall effect washed may seem, Cibani worked them obi belt accents, matching sweaters and rubber-bonded away last season’s rebellious with seeming effortlessness. Ts and cigarette pants — linen jackets. The play of bright flirtation with a moodier, The chic lineup merged Hellessy that often show up in her colors (sunset reds, cobalt Gothic look. her artisanal proclivities with by Sylvie collections. If calm and quietly blues, field greens) were mixed elegant shapes, such as in a Millstein sophisticated, the beige-on- with neutrals to enhance the Lisa Perry: Those unaware that blue asymmetric wrap dress, beige effect left one craving active lifestyle of the city- fashion week runs concurrently and white poplin shirt with color — but not for long. centric collection. with the U.S. Open got a stylish broderie anglaise overlay The second half of Natori’s reminder at Lisa Perry’s paired with a blue twill A-line show was devoted to bold Michael Bastian: “Where are you presentation. She transformed skirt. A tailored dot jacquard pairings of brights and big — going with your life?” crooned her Madison Avenue boutique jacket with a matching pencil make that gigantic — jewelry, songstress Alice Smith, in a live into a chic tennis court replete skirt added to the collection’s the best of which was used cabaret performance during the with white side benches for sense of soft glamour. on fluid jersey gowns, in a Michael Bastian show. guests. Both set and lineup beautiful indigo as well as The answer this season is charmed. Perry upped her Hellessy by Sylvie Millstein: After metallics that had a liquid- Paris, as Bastian was inspired by game this season, taking a laying the groundwork, and gold look on the slinky, floor- a series of classic French films, significant risk that largely paid securing some high-profile sweeping finale pieces. like “The Red Balloon” and “The off. Instead of her usual Pop Art retailers (Barneys New York, Dreamers,” that he watched influences and bright colors, Harrods, Kirna Zabête) Organic by John Patrick: John while battling a cold. That she opted for an all-white with her first two seasons of Patrick stuck to his tried-and- meant an array of stylish Gallic collection that was heavy on sophisticated nonchalance, true formula of tactile organic archetypes, from schoolboys modern dresses in racy, straight Sylvie Millstein wanted to cottons and silks cut in classic with leather backpacks to silhouettes. “inject more fashion” into her shapes, this time adding some gigolos in thigh-revealing shorts The extreme uneven hems spring collection. glamorous elements inspired by and snug knitwear. and risqué cutouts were less A reflection of her French Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1960 There were some literal successful, but Perry had roots, the lineup was a film “L’avventura.” references to get the point several great new takes on the deft mix of laid-back and Big circle skirts and sheer, across: a cute red balloon on tennis dress in both cotton and luxurious, with standout superfine knits were the the back of a sweater, a slew knit piqué that felt fresh and pieces ranging from basics, main looks, shown alongside of straw boaters and “Paris” flirty. Her last few exits were like silk satin camisoles and a understated separates that emblazoned on a vélo cap. But her best: an oversize cable-knit mariner striped slipdress, to included wispy voile dresses the French influences were sweater teamed with a pleated more specialty items, such as and wide-leg pants with boxy filtered through Bastian’s chiffon skirt and a cotton piqué a beautiful off-the-shoulder trenches. A sheer ivory pencil sexed-up American sportswear halter gown that took her match silk georgette blouse with

skirt topped with a matching — which sometimes brings into the evening session. dramatic blouson sleeves. MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 14 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 WWD.COM McCartney, Paltrow Team for Goop Line {Continued from page one} selection of exclusive products The black blazer to Goop readers. Past Goop and Stella Collection associations include handbag. Cynthia Rowley, Rag & Bone, Warby Parker and Alexandra von Furstenberg. Paltrow’s mostly female audience spans a range of ages and backgrounds, from professionals to mothers to fashionistas “who are very in- terested in all the things we pro- vide,” she said. “Selling is grow- ing by leaps and bounds. We’re learning about what people want and at what price point. “When one of your best friends is a very successful artist and you love and admire her work, you want to support it at all [costs],” Paltrow added. “I have this start- up, Goop, and I have a strong idea of what I want it to be. I went to Stella and asked if she would col- laborate with me. She never had done a collaboration like this before until I strong-armed her. She’s the most insanely amazing designer.” “I’m cringing,” McCartney said, reacting to the praise. Stella McCartney and Gwyneth Paltrow flanked by “Gwyneth has such a strong models wearing Stella McCartney x Goop. sense of style. One automati- cally recognizes what she likes to wear — very timeless and ef- “I think of myself as a “The pieces are very subtle,” company. “This is another way fortless pieces.” woman who is a lover of beau- McCartney continued. “If you to let people understand that McCartney considers tiful things,” Paltrow told glance briefly at the jeans, they we have opening price points. Paltrow to be a muse: “I have WWD. “I’m very specific about look like timeless black jeans We also understand that there’s quite a lot of admiration for my taste. The role I want in a with a zip detail and a great a cut-off point for price. It’s al- her at so many levels and that’s partnership is curating a col- shape.” Upon closer examina- ways difficult to bring the highest a big part of how I design. Her lection as opposed to taking a tion, the jeans are actually made quality garment made in Italy” in spirit and inner beauty as well designer point of view. I can from deep navy blue velvet fab- at a lower price. “It’s never easy, as outer beauty are a big inspi- tweak a blazer and make it the ric with denim on the back. but if you want something badly ration for me. I draw from that perfect blazer. It’s being able “I tend to go for more classic enough, you can do it.” every day from all my friends.” to fulfill what my ideal things pieces,” Paltrow said. “I want- Besides making money, the “She has all these amazing ought to be.” ed to make things that you’d partnership is about “hav- women,” Paltrow said, refer- Stella McCartney x Goop isn’t leave to your daughter. My au- ing fun and being accessible,” ring to Cameron Diaz, Naomi trendy fast fashion; rather, the col- dience loves an investment McCartney said. “These designs Watts, Liv Tyler, Kate Hudson, lection is about investment pieces. piece and nothing will last lon- are not going to blow anyone Kate Moss and Rihanna, who “We sat down and talked about it ger. We could have done some away. They are staple pieces.” McCartney dresses. “We all a lot and it was very considered,” brand-new trend collection. Now, the line is about to represent different aspects of McCartney said. “The outcome For the first time, we wanted launch and the women are still a woman. You have something is designs that are very timeless. to work on something that was friends. “I would collaborate from each of us.” The black In order to create pieces that are very easy to understand.” again,” Paltrow said. The one thing Paltrow doesn’t wool effortless, it’s very considered. “We are a luxury house, but “We’ll see how this goes consider herself is a designer — pants. Gwyneth was a huge part of that. we have really affordable piec- and we’ll build on it,” said she describes her role as a curator. This is a big reflection of her life. es,” McCartney said of her own McCartney. Diesel Black Gold Taps Melbostad Lafley’s Challenge York and Italy, is working on structuring a “compre- {Continued from page one} By LUISA ZARGANI hensive collection, mixing fabrics together, with a tai- hair-care brand. And frankly it’s doing quite well in loring component.” While women’s wear is shown in most markets around the world.” MILAN — Almost a year after being tapped as Diesel New York, Milan is the men’s wear venue, and there Lafley’s comparison to Apple breaks down after Black Gold’s women’s wear creative director, Andreas are no plans to change the status quo. 2007 — while P&G’s beauty business retrenched, Melbostad is taking on responsibility for the men’s wear “After the beautiful success of the women’s collection, the tech company introduced the iPhone, setting it division as well. in which Andreas perfectly expressed the rock-chic es- on a course that would push revenues to more than “Since early on, when the role was first discussed sence of Diesel Black Gold, I am even more convinced that $156 billion last year. with Renzo [Rosso, owner of Diesel], the goal was to he is the most appropriate person to provide substance Lafley gave the impression of an executive on have a singular vision for both categories,” said the and direction to the line,” Rosso said. “He will be involved the move. He told investors and analysts at the con- Norwegian designer. Although this marks his entry in all aspects, from the collection to the communication, ference that he was focused on improving the com- into the men’s arena, Melbostad believes his “sensibil- including interior design.” pany’s execution while also amping up productivity ity within women’s wear could translate into men’s.” The company, which is controlled by Rosso’s OTB and innovation. Melbostad began his design career with Nicole Farhi SpA, is mapping out the opening of flagships in Milan He said he had gone through the consumer prod- in London and, before his most recent assignment as and London in the second half of the year. Melbostad uct company’s various businesses, keeping an eye creative director of Susan Dell’s Phi, worked at Guy said he is looking at finalizing a store concept, “explor- out for what could be trimmed. Laroche, Yves Saint Laurent and Calvin Klein. ing the identity of the brand.” “[I have] already been through the portfolio in The designer said he has previously drawn from men’s There is only one existing Diesel Black Gold in detail,” he said. “Already discussed with the man- wear in terms of “tailoring, function and utility,” and that New York, on Greene Street in SoHo, which will re- agement team. Already discussed more than once he sees “great potential” in men’s wear for Diesel Black open after a remodeling during fashion week. The unit with the directors on the board. We’re on it. We Gold, given Diesel’s “heritage” in this category. Melbostad opened last year. The brand is also available in selected know what doesn’t fit strategically and what does. said the Diesel Black Gold man is a “partner” of the brand’s Diesel flagships and in 200 multibrand stores around We know what’s underperforming and what’s per- woman, whose attitude is “strong and confident, with an in- the world. Italy, Japan, the U.K. and France are Diesel forming.…There’ll be few moves that will be obvi- ternational sensibility, adventurous and global. The idea Black Gold’s main markets. There are also plans to open ous, and we’ll announce some when it’s the appro- behind men’s is not so different.” There will also be an stores in China after 2014. priate time.” “irreverent” touch and more denim than in women’s. The A new dedicated showroom in Milan is to open in the Lafley also said the company would be rolling men’s line was previously designed by an in-house team co- penthouse of Diesel’s Via Stendhal offices. out a new, lower-priced version of Tide, dubbed ordinated by Rosso. “I’ve worked with Renzo for a year, and Diesel Black Gold, the upscale, contemporary sibling Tide Simply Clean and Fresh. from the very first moment, I was impressed by his drive of Diesel, was founded in 2008. Melbostad succeeded While investors initially welcomed the return of and enthusiasm for the Diesel Black Gold project. He is Sophia Kokosalaki. In 2012, Diesel Black Gold totaled Lafley with a rally, the stock has since fallen back very passionate and proud, he has an almost animal force sales of about 55 million euros, or $72.4 million at cur- to just below where it was when the straight-talking that drives me and the team,” said Melbostad. rent exchange, while Diesel had sales of 1.1 billion euros, executive rejoined in May. Shares of the company The designer, who splits his time between New or about $1.45 billion. slipped 0.3 percent to $77.49 on Wednesday.

16 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Kors Scores BELST-OFF: Belstaff has decided to New York flagship on Madison Avenue “MY FRIENDS and cancel its spring presentation in New last week. With fashion week now I walked around the York, which was slated to take place at upon the city, the store held a proper, if [Fashion Institute of the Four Seasons restaurant Sunday subdued, launch party on Wednesday Technology] campus evening. According to the company, afternoon. On the second floor, where like we were on a the decision was made in order to the company will offer its bespoke runway,” Michael Kors focus all efforts on the opening of its embossing services, Hindmarch was said, surveying the London flagship on New Bond Street, practicing a quality rare amongst airy promenade of the which will be feted on Sept. 15 during handbag designers: brand agnosticism. David H. Koch Theater London Fashion Week. “With all the “It’s all about your name on it, not mine,” at Lincoln Center from overwhelming excitement now on she laughed. “So we’ll make something a dais while recalling London, we have decided to cancel for you and it’s your name embossed on college days gone by. “We Sunday’s presentation and highlight 10 of the product, your name on the box, and wore the craziest things the top looks from the [spring] collection you can handwrite the message.” every day. I wore three at opening night of our New Bond Street She explained that she had recently pairs of leg warmers. flagship,” Harry Slatkin, Belstaff ’s vice made use of her own services: “I just I wore army hats with chairman and chief executive officer, made my son — because he’s moved to brooches on them. I said. — MARC KARIMZADEH Beijing for a year because he’s studying wore diaper pants. Yes… Mandarin — I made him a big leather diaper pants.” ROUND THE WORLD: After unveiling its fall folio.…There’s this amazing poem The room was packed collection with a runway show in Paris called ‘The Dash,’ which talks about Wednesday for The at the Musée Rodin last February, the when you die, your tombstone will have Museum at FIT’s eighth- Swedish fast-fashion retailer opted for the date you’re born and the date you annual Couture Council New York Fashion Week to showcase its die, and between it is a dash. So how benefit luncheon, which spring lineup, which was presented on do you live your dash? I just put a dash this year honored Kors. Wednesday at the company’s showroom on the front and explained the concept Tables teemed with the in the SoHo district. and said you’re off to Beijing, this is likes of Jamee Gregory, Julie “The U.S. is one of our most your dash!” — MATTHEW LYNCH Macklowe, Linda Fargo, Iman, important markets,” said H&M head of Cornelia Guest, Fe Fendi and design Ann-Sofie Johansson, explaining PARIS POST: Dior has a new recruit: other Ladies Who Lunch the company’s decision to present in Longtime Chanel executive Arnaud Bazin types. More than a few Hilary Swank New York. The company launched is to join the Avenue Montaigne fashion raised their eyebrows in Michael e-commerce in America in August and is house later this month as managing at what was but one of Kors with the gearing up to unveil the world’s biggest director of the leather goods, shoes the many pithy quips designer. H&M store in Herald Center in fall 2014. and accessories division, WWD has peppered into Kors’ Johansson infused a Seventies, learned. He is to assume some of the acceptance speech as bohemian vibe in the collection. Fluid responsibilities previously handled he received the Award tunics and maxidresses embellished by Delphine Arnault, who recently left for Artistry of Fashion, Lily with tassels were paired with suede Dior, where she was deputy managing following in the footsteps Aldridge biker jackets and embroidered cotton director since 2008, to become second- of past honorees such bombers, while fitted blazers and skinny in-command at Louis Vuitton. as Valentino, Karl Lagerfeld pants added a rock ’n’ roll tomboy feel Bazin has held a variety of positions and Oscar de la Renta. Kors to the lineup. — ALESSANDRA TURRA in leather goods marketing and product was not only honored development at Chanel, and was most for his contribution to SHOWDOWN: Fashion recently merchandising fashion; the designer show producer People’s FOR MORE director at Chanel fashion. recently created the Revolution has cut ties with SCOOPS, SEE According to his LinkedIn Michael Kors Endowed South African designer profile, he has also worked at Scholarship at his alma David Tlale, whose show it WWD.com Hermès, Procter & Gamble mater. The fund covers was producing. The show and Cassina. — MILES SOCHA four years of tuition for eye will still go on at 9:30 a.m. one student, housing, today at the Box in Lincoln COMMON INTERESTS: Raymond materials and books, as Center. Kelly Cutrone, owner of People’s Weil is extending an arm into the music well as a year of study

Revolution, said she resigned because biz. The luxury Swiss watchmaker abroad in Milan. STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY her agency didn’t get paid. They had is teaming up with Artists Den “I couldn’t believe I’d agreed that People’s Revolution would Entertainment — the musical platform gotten [the scholarship]. I really couldn’t,” The luncheon also heralds the official be paid 50 percent of show fees upon best known for its Emmy-nominated said Kim Nguyen, its first recipient. The arrival of New York Fashion Week. After signing, and the remainder of the televised concert series on PBS, “Live selection process was rigorous and ended Kors stepped down from the podium, deposit 48 hours before the show. As of From the Artists Den,” which features with five finalists interviewed by Kors. attendees grazed their plates and Wednesday, she had not been paid any concerts in nontraditional settings — Nguyen and Kors spoke via Skype, as the bemoaned the looming packed schedule. of her $15,000 fee, she claimed. by launching a multichannel media third-semester fashion design student Josie Natori and Monica Rich Kosann She said she told Tlale Wednesday campaign. Weil has signed on as a partner was studying abroad in Florence at the leaned over their Cobb salads table to that “if you don’t honor your for the upcoming seventh season of the time. “I was so nervous about what to commiserate. Nearby, Martha Stewart agreement, you’re no longer in PBS series, to air nationwide in 2014, wear until I realized he could only see me enjoyed her lunch. “Good soup,” she our care,” and they would resign and will have a broadcast presence in from the neck up,” said Nguyen. murmured to no one in particular over immediately. She said she began television spots before and after every her bowl of sweet pea and tarragon. e-mailing guests that People’s episode. The partnership will kick off at a “We were just in the middle of fittings, Revolution was no longer affiliated secret location during New York Fashion Iman and I literally looked at my team and I’m with the fashion presentation. Week with a performance by Sheryl Crow. like, ‘Pretend that the clock just stopped Reached for comment, Tlale told Past artists who have performed for and we’ll be right back,’” Kors said WWD, “It’s not about me not wanting to the “Artists Den” series include Adele, earlier from the second-floor balcony as pay them. The payments were delayed Mumford & Sons, Ringo Starr and Elvis guests arrived. “You know, we work on from my side. They were going to be Costello, in unusual venues like Graceland, a collection for almost nine months, so effective today, but she pulled the plug. a Masonic temple, a Thirties silent movie it’s like having a baby. You just want to She was not willing to wait. We were theater and more. — KRISTI GARCED see that baby born healthy, happy and going to make the entire amount today.” smiling. I just like to feel prepared. I’m Tlale, who will be showing for his MATCHMAKER, MATCHMAKER: Contemporary not one of those last-minute people.” third time in Lincoln Center, said he has sportswear brand Boy Meets Girl and Hilary Swank, on hand to present Kors’ already paid IMG for the space. He said Roman & Sunstone, the designer and award, piped in: “I’m the same way. I he contacted the stylist, makeup people distributor of fashion jewelry, came don’t put things off. That must be a Leo and casting agent when he got word together after participating in back- characteristic. that People’s Revolution was pulling to-back Accessories Council events. “We’re both Leos,” she explained. out and asked them to continue helping As a result, the two brands decided to “We’re similar, that’s why we like to hang him. “What really has changed is our collaborate on a collection of four rings out. And now I’m giving him awards.” relationship with People’s Revolution. to make its debut during Style360’s Just Kors may not be feeling the strain of It was my first time, and one of those Dance and Boy Meets Girl runway show at crunch time but has his fashion week lessons learned.” So what was the New York Fashion Week on Sept. 12. “We essential-to-make-it-through items: lesson learned? “You have to learn how are always thrilled when our members “Sashimi during show week is definitely they work, to pay in advance. I’m coming can connect to do great things together,” a fashion friend. And I’m totally addicted from South Africa and trying to build said Karen Giberson, the Council’s president. to iced tea. I suck it down all day. Thank a brand in New York. I wanted to work The Boy Meets Girl x Roman Luxe God for Splenda. Also, I need trashy with People’s Revolution, but it never collection features four gold-plated ring television at night. I’ll turn on, like, ‘The worked out.” — LISA LOCKWOOD styles inspired by the newest installment Nanny.’ I want to laugh and take my in the Just Dance video game franchise. brain out of fashion.…Fran Drescher, she CUSTOM MADE: London-based handbag The pieces will be available Tuesday at does the trick.” maven Anya Hindmarch quietly opened a romansunstone.com for $35 to 95. — K.G. — TAYLOR HARRIS PHOTO BY: FREDRIK ETOALL FREDRIK ETOALL PHOTO BY:

“My blog is a space where I’m able to communicate with my readers; I can make my voice heard and so can they. That’s invaluable to me.” —ELIN KLING ON NOWMANIFEST.COM

WHERE FASHION FINDS ITS VOICE 18 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 NYC Celebrates Elie Tahari Day Karstadt to Launch British Campaign wearing it today,” added Rivers, who said fashion” covering all categories at the By LISA LOCKWOOD it’s now a skirt that sags down her legs. By DAVID MOIN store. Also part of the mix: exclusive Rivers said she has gotten to know products, special events, the introduction NEW YORK — With the Fort Hamilton High Tahari on a personal level and wears his COUNTRY PROMOTIONS are back in of several brands and a host of celebri- School Marching Band playing in the Fifth clothes on “Fashion Police.” vogue and Karstadt in Germany has em- ties including Jade Jagger, the daughter Avenue store window and top brass from “He’s wonderful, kind, humble and braced the strategy. of Mick Jagger, launching her jewelry, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, grateful. He’s a terrific father. Karstadt, no doubt feeling some and Sebastian Conran, the son of Terence Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus gath- “You’re such a New York American story, “royal fever” from the birth of Prince Conran, who is launching home products. ered inside, this was no ordinary Wednesday which is so wonderful. You’re a kind man, George, has wrapped itself around Key British brands participating are morning. This was Elie Tahari Day, pro- you’re a generous man, and I hope we’ll all punk, Carnaby Street and British pop Radley, Accessorize, Revival London, claimed by Mayor Michael R. Bloomberg. be here for your 80th,” she concluded. culture for a month-long “Feel London” Burberry, GHD (Good Hair Day), Reiss, “We’re here to honor a fashion legend Goldrich read the proclamation, which campaign, commencing today. The French Connection, Whistles, Ted on the occasion of his 40th anniversary,” said, in part, that Tahari’s founding of his promotion extends to all 83 Karstadt Baker, All Saints, Phase Eight, Wallis, said city official Robert Goldrich. “Elie is company 40 years ago has helped ensure department stores, which have been Pepe Denim, Dune, Aldo, Burlington, a big proponent and supporter of Save the that New York remains at the center of refurbishing and repositioning to at- Kurt Geiger, Hunter, Jeff Banks, Ben Garment Center, a nonprofit that serves the fashion world. “A longtime leader tract younger shoppers and improve Sherman, Belstaff, Cath Kidston, to promote, preserve and save New York in the industry, this organization has in- business. The main event is at the com- Hoxton Gin and Tanqueray. Topshop City as the world’s fashion capital by sup- troduced many pioneering designs and pletely refurbished 220,000-square-foot and Topman are rolling out in-store porting, connecting and advocating for played an integral role in the launch of Düsseldorf flagship, which has reimag- shops; there will be a Rolling Stones local factories, suppliers and designers.” worldwide fashion trends.” The procla- ined women’s, men’s and home floors pop-up shop, and Fashion Fringe, the As part of his spe- mation noted that the with sharper segmentation of trendy, designer incubator, and students from cial day, Tahari donat- Elie Tahari label has modern and classic styles. Fashion has Central Saint Martins will provide cap- ed $35,000 to Save the a global presence on been pumped up with increased space, sule collections, T-shirts and scarves. Garment Center from five continents and is Key non-British brands proceeds from sales of sold in more than 600 serving up British-inspired a dress he created (and stores worldwide. “Our product are The Kase, sold at his boutiques administration con- Luxottica Sunglass Shops, worldwide ) for Season tinues to support New Apple, Sugarbird Cupcakes, 2 of “Project Runway York-based designers See by Chloé, Aigner, DKNY, All Stars,” where like Elie Tahari, as Joop, Michael Kors jewelry Tahari served as judge. well as the entire New & watches, Calvin Klein cos- Helping to celebrate York City fashion scene metics, The Kooples, Zadig the occasion were through initiatives such by Zadig & Voltaire, Kenneth Saks’ Stephen Sadove, STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Fashion NYC 2020, Cole, Tommy Hilfiger Denim, Ron Frasch and Joseph Joan Rivers toasts Elie Tahari on his which will help expand Seven for All Mankind, Boitano; Neiman’s company’s 40th anniversary. the industry and main- Notify, Dita Von Teese, Ken Downing; Bergdorf ’s Linda Fargo; tain our position as a fashion leader,” the Porsche, Boss, Strellson and Sharon Wax, vice president, divisional proclamation said. Donkey Products. merchandise manager of Bloomingdale’s; Tahari, who wished everyone a happy Karstadt would not dis- Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of new year, said, “The city of New York close the dollar amount of the Council of Fashion Designers of gave me everything. I came to New York The Rolling Stones pop-up shop at Karstadt. the buy but indicated 10 per- America; Meryl Poster, president of tele- and lived in a shelter for runaway boys. a new restaurant was installed and un- cent of the merchandise at the depart- vision at The Weinstein Co. (which owns I had no place to stay. I remember my profitable curtains, lighting, books and ment stores through the promotion pe- “Project Runway”); Bernard Aidan, ceo of first job was selling hats and gloves in the drugstore were dropped. riod would be British or Brit-inspired Catherine Malandrino, and Joan Rivers. Newark, N.J., outside in a bus station, “Karstadt has never done a com- from suppliers from different countries. Dressed in an Elie Tahari ensemble, and we would chase the people who used prehensive, one-theme event,” Andrew Import promotions were pioneered Rivers addressed the audience. “I’m real- to steal our hats and gloves.” Jennings, Karstadt’s chief executive of- by two late and great retailers, Stanley ly thrilled to be here. I’d be more thrilled Living and working in New York, he ficer, told WWD. “Why have we picked Marcus of Neiman Marcus and Marvin to be at the plastic surgeon’s, but I’m learned everything about fashion from London? Not because I am a Brit. It’s Traub of Bloomingdale’s, and were thrilled to be here. We’re here to honor the hippie days of the Seventies to back because London is a cool place and a most popular in the Seventies through [Elie] for 40 years of chic, wearable, af- to nature, raw edge, deconstruction and lot of Germans love London,” Jennings the early Nineties. The format became fordable clothes that make women look high tech. “That’s what our collection said. “There is no question that there played out, but in the past two years, terrific and sexy and appropriate, and today is about,” he said. But years ago it is a renaissance of iconic British looks. it’s resurfaced with Macy’s in 2012 that’s an amazing accomplishment.” was about selling tube tops. “All of that Brands like Ben Sherman have really staging a Brazil event, and currently She called Tahari “truly the American happened in this city. I don’t know any come back into fashion. I’m a big believ- Bloomingdale’s is running a U.K. cam- dream.” She recalled how he came to other city in the world where this could er in these major events. For 18 months, paign. “Feel London will bring a slice New York with no money, slept on a park have happened,” said the designer. we have been working on this. It’s all of contemporary London life to our bench, worked hard and took every ad- He gave a special thank you to Rivers. about differentiation. Next year, it will German cousins,” said London Mayor vantage he could. “He started with the “When I grow up, I want to be just like be all about Italy.” Boris Johnson. “As well as strengthening tube top, and I was one of the first people her. To be happy and make other people Jennings described the Feel London links between our countries, I hope it to buy the tube top,” she said. “I’m still happy. That’s what life is all about.” buy as “a mix of British heritage and will entice many more to pay us a visit.”

Looks by Belgian designers on display. FOR MORE Antwerp Academy Feted With Exhibit IMAGES, SEE Beirendonck recalled in an interview. “I WWD.com/ By LAURE GUILBAULT came back as a teacher only two years fashion-news. after graduating. I overviewed almost 30 ANTWERP, Belgium — Antwerp is prep- years, so it was easier [to curate the ex- ping for a major fashion moment, and a hibit] as I remembered many things.” big alumni reunion. The exhibition starts with a time line The fashion department of the Antwerp in the stairwell. One video clip depicts a Royal Academy of Fine Arts is celebrat- shoot in which second-year students were ing its 50th year with an exhibition at assigned to design historic costumes. They the MoMu, the city’s fashion museum. include the 1980-82 class’ famous Antwerp Concurrently, there is an outdoor art proj- Six — Demeulemeester, Van Noten, ect where 12 outfits by Belgian fashion Bikkembergs, Marina Yee, Van Beirendonck designers such as Ann Demeulemeester, and Dirk Van Saene — plus Margiela don- Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Martin ning the costumes they had made.

Margiela, Peter Pilotto and Christian “It was a very dynamic moment, we DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE PHOTO BY Wijnants are displayed in large-format pho- were ambitious, we really wanted to tographs. The towering images were placed become fashion designers,” said Van ly, mixing different generations, including white knits from Wijnants, now a knit- at different locations around the city. Beirendonck. “We were enormously youngsters Cédric Jacquemyn and Minju wear professor at the department. These constitute parts of the citywide stimulated by seeing everything that Kim, H&M Design Award winner this year. One wall is covered with drawings and “Happy Birthday Dear Academie” cel- happened in fashion at that time. When “We selected 120 silhouettes, and only sketches including three original pieces ebration of the 350th anniversary of the we started studying, the whole thing hap- 80 could be used for the show. Some out- from Margiela that are quite classic. “He Antwerp academy. pened in Italy with Versace and Armani fits of them were lost, some were bro- was not born deconstructed,” said Van Festivities include a reunion and a ball starting up; the year after, with Thierry ken.…It was a big search to get all these Beirendonck. “We were coming to school on Saturday. “There will be so many faces I Mugler and Claude Montana who started pieces together,” Van Beirendonck said. in Antwerp, raised in a traditional way. have not seen for a long time,” said Walter in Paris; then the year after, in Japan Graduation projects of students are Martin was a very good drawer. He had Van Beirendonck, head of the fashion de- with Comme des Garçons and Yohji gathered under the heading Arcadia, re- a sense of elegance, which he has always partment and curator of the MoMu exhibit. Yamamoto. These were all statements ferring to nature. Van Beirendonck’s 1980 had. He became more conceptual, be- The showcase, which opens to the public from individual designers. That was so effort was inspired by insects and in- cause of how he wanted his house to be.” on Sunday and runs through Feb. 16, brings inspiring; that gave us a boost to go for cludes a hand-knit sweater in wool with The tour culminates in a room dedi- together about 80 original silhouettes, as it. We were very young, very ambitious, a butterfly motif. cated to silhouettes of the Antwerp well as sketches and accessories from the a little bit impatient; that created a nice A subsequent room displays silhou- Six and Margiela, with a soundtrack students in the graduate program. energy in the group and also a synergy.” ettes from various designers’ labels, from such artists as Patti Smith, Donna “I was there as a student,” Van The exhibition is organized thematical- including ones by Kris Van Assche and Summer and the Sex Pistols. WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 19 WWD.COM

contents aiming for a free-wheeling Beigbeder, an author-cum-literary and interdisciplinary mix of visuals celebrity, told WWD he has collected and text. Prior to publication, readers all the issues since it was created in MEMO PAD can follow the project on the blog 1963. (The original publication ceased (Shokunin.condenast.de). In addition, in 1994.) Condé Nast is offering mentorships for Other photographers who contributed up-and-coming journalists and graphic to the new issue include Terry Richardson, FASHION’S DAVOS: Magazines are listening to those younger, cooler designers in connection with the Mikael Jansson and Glen Luchford, who shot increasingly waking up to the potential bloggers,” he said. Shokunin project. model Malgosia Bela, Le Fur’s soon-to- of conferences as a tidy source of The last question brought the “The motivation for this project is be wife. revenue. The Atlantic has the Aspen proceedings full circle. The marketers the joy of exercising creative freedom,” Yseult Williams, founder of Grazia Ideas Festival, The New Yorker has were asked to give bloggers advice on said Moritz von Laffert, president of Condé in France, is the editor in chief of its annual festival in October. On how to become brand spokespersons. Nast Germany. “Making readers and the magazine, while New-York based Wednesday, Details magazine joined — ERIK MAZA users aware of the value of carefully George Cortina is the editor in chief their ranks with a summit, “Tech & made media is an indirect goal of the for fashion. Céline Perruche has joined Tastemakers,” where it was start-up RUSSIAN AROUND: Consider it a 10th project — and there has never been a Lui from Grazia as beauty, style and founders and marketers taking center anniversary field trip. Berlin-based better time to do so than right now,” he lifestyle editor. stage. At the five-hour confab, panels magazine Achtung, whose birthday issue continued. — MELISSA DRIER Some sections have been resurrected revolved around the topic of how to hits newsstands in Germany, Switzerland such as “La défonce du consommateur,” monetize changes in technology — and Austria this week, decided to take a (“The consumer’s smash,” in English) one was called “In$tagram” while detour from its mission to cover fashion consisting of shopping pages. The another offered advice on striking the culture in Germany and focus on Russia founders are hoping up to 30 percent of right balance between “monetization this time. their readers are women. and editorial integrity” — and a lot Enter Achtung’s new art director, Features also include a piece on how of buzzy words were thrown around, Moscow native Anton Ioukhnovets, men’s labels such as AMI Alexandre like “disruption,” “influencers” and previously with W and GQ magazine. He Mattiussi, Melinda Gloss and Cuisse de “creative-thought leaders.” returned to his hometown, even including Grenouille are reinventing the style of Self-promotion is never far from some still-lives shot in the apartment the Parisian man. the agenda at most media conferences, building he grew up in. Achtung creative Circulation for the first issue is around and this wasn’t any different. Eric director and founder Markus Ebner also 350,000 copies. Some 15,000 additional Kuhn, a social media agent at United tapped Alexey Kiselev, a promising new copies are to be distributed internationally, Talent Agency, moderated a panel with photographer from Moscow, and editor with a 16-page supplement of articles Ricky Van Veen, the founder of College Ekaterina Mukhina, to shoot local designers translated into English. Humor, a UTA client, and James Nord, a and Moscow’s in crowd. The cover price is 2.90 euros, or cofounder of the blog directory Fohr Also, dovetailing with Dior’s Red $3.80 at current exchange. The first Card, led another panel that included Square fashion show last July in honor issue contains 60 pages of advertising, Andrew Schmidt, manager of global digital of the 120th anniversary of the GUM including from Dior Homme, Chanel, business development at Puma, one of retail center, Ebner coaxed the French Giorgio Armani and Bulgari. Fohr’s launch partners. house into lending him all the clothes its The campaign to kick off the launch Conferences serve many purposes, new couturier Raf Simons made so far for includes billboard advertising and a bus to sell some tickets, for one, and these a sprawling fashion shoot. campaign featuring the cover. went for $80 a pop. But with this one, German contributors are still very The launch comes at a time when

Details also gave some of its advertisers much present, however, and include Karl MARIO SORRENTI PHOTO BY men’s magazines — albeit a smaller an elevated platform to promote their Lagerfeld and Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis. Léa Seydoux on the cover of the first issue of Lui. world — are trending better than brands, live and in person. Appearing Encouraging for an indie title, Ebner women’s. Paid circulation in France of on the last panel were executives from reported that circulation has grown men’s magazines, a segment that includes Puma, Armani Exchange and Saks from 5,000 to 22,000, and its Web site, to BRINGING SEXY BACK: Léa Seydoux appears GQ and Vogue Hommes International, Fifth Avenue. Their round table, “The be revamped next year, generates 50,000 naked, save for a transparent chiffon grew 2.8 percent in 2012 to 2.5 million Digital Brand Connection,” doubled as page views a month. Achtung charges cape by Alexandre Vauthier, on the cover copies, according to France’s Circulation a primer for the way fashion marketing 9,000 euros, or $11,845, for a spread “and of the new men’s monthly Lui (or “him,” Audit Bureau. In the meantime, is conducted today, with independent we don’t go off the rate card,” Ebner in English). She was photographed by circulation of the vastly larger women’s bloggers often co-opted by retail brands, noted. The once biannual title now Mario Sorrenti. magazine segment fell 3.4 percent in 2012 sometimes voluntarily, as a springboard comes out three times a year. Jean-Yves Le Fur, founder of Numéro, is to 371.6 million copies. towards a transaction. — MILES SOCHA behind the revival of the former erotic “There is a large interest from “I think bloggers are an important publication of the Seventies that is advertisers [for men’s magazines], tactic,” said Christine Bender, senior TEAM WORK: Condé Nast Germany has a returning as a lifestyle magazine. It is specially in the upscale end,” Philippe vice president, marketing and creative singular group project in the works: a set to hit newsstands Thursday. Rincé, deputy director of the Circulation services at Armani Exchange. “They magazine jointly conceived and managed “It is the whim of a spoiled kid,” Audit Bureau, said. do give an authenticity to your brand by the editors in chief of its five leading said editorial director Frédéric Beigbeder, Elle Man, a new publication by that you might not be able to attain on publications — Vogue, Glamour, Myself, speaking about his involvement in the French media group Lagardère, your own. They allow you to reach your GQ and AD. Under the working title new venture during a press conference publisher of Elle in France, is set to hit customer in a much more intimate, “Shokunin,” the 200-page issue is due on Tuesday in Paris. newsstands on Oct. 3. — LAURE GUILBAULT personal way and it gives you an out Nov. 13 as a supplement in the opportunity for reach and scale.” December editions of each of the five Eric Jennings, vice president and men’s magazines. It will be a one-time-only fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, enterprise, with a print run of 800,000. said bloggers are a useful tool in the “Shokunin” is generally marketing of new brands. translated from the Japanese as “We’ve had success when we pick up craftsman or artisan but it is a term a new brand that this customer in our which also implies commitment to store is not aware of yet but bloggers providing society with something are blogging about it and we shift the of value and excellence. The For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. inventory from the store, where it’s not publication will be organized in selling as well, to the Web site because five sections — Clever, Radical, there’s a younger, hipper customer Poetic, Sexy and Refined — the Spaces Three Oceans Taps Russo world, that’s where a lot of the inter- By EVAN CLARK esting things are happening, new busi- ness models and new ways to reach the THREE OCEANS, a New York-based consumers,” Russo said. ASSISTANT TO LUXURY merchant banking boutique, brought The wellness area could also see RETAIL BROKER Jennifer Doré Russo on board this some wheeling and dealing. 20+hrs/wk, $25/hr. Office + Personal week as a partner focusing on the con- “As consumers are living longer… Responsibilities.Candidates must be: trustworthy with superior communica- sumer market. we will continue to see a lot of con- tion & organizational skills. Russo was most recently managing solidation in that space, whether it’s +Photoshop/Illustrator proficient. Email resume, cover letter director at Sonenshine Partners and fitness or other ways to be healthy or and 3 references to: [email protected]**See has spent 20 years working in the con- skin care,” Russo said. “The healthy- posting in wwd.com for more details. sumer space. living market can encompass so many The M&A market has picked up different things, and we will see com- recently after a slow start to the year, panies try to offer more than just one and Russo said the beauty, wellness thing to consumers.” and accessories sectors would contin- Three Oceans works on the classic ue to see deals. merchant banking model, both advising Companies with an e-commerce clients on deals and investing its own (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] focus or a direct-to-consumer model capital. Earlier this year, the firm took a are also on the radar. “In the deal stake in the quickly growing Tory Burch.

VINCECAMUTO.COM VINCECAMUTO.COM high art Man of the Week Dior Homme invests in Plus: eton at 85 permanent sculptures Shirtmaker marks for its New York and anniversary with Diplomatic Ties Beverly Hills stores. limited-edition Making the case — for a sartorial upgrade Page MW2 designs, custom for Secretary of State John Kerry. Page MW8 programs. Page MW2

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w05b001a.indd 1 9/4/13 5:51 PM 09042013175210 MW2 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 Men’s Week Eton’s DnA Marks Brand’s 85th Year by JEAN E. PALMIERI inviting people to our home and ask- Another initiative for the brand Wilkinson said the U.S. is now ing them to stay for dinner,” he said. is a new emphasis on made-to-mea- one of Eton’s top growth markets. ETON HAS BIG PLANS for the The factory in Gånghester is also sure. Wilkinson said the company “Five years ago, it was not a signifi- future as it looks back at 85 years the place where the DnA collection is now “a good made-to-measure cant market for us,” he admitted. of luxury shirtmaking. will be produced. “We were using company with a goal to be a great Including Canada, which is “strong To commemorate the anniversary, our original factory for creating sam- made-to-measure company. We’ve and growing,” North America now the Swedish brand will host parties ples [and a small made-to-measure been growing so much over the past represents around 22 percent of the at its stores in New York, London and program], but we weren’t utilizing four years, so capacity is an issue. company’s total sales and business Stockholm today. The events will also it as much as we could,” Wilkinson So we needed to expand our factory here has tripled since 2008. The serve to introduce a limited-edition said. In anticipation of the line, Eton to keep up, so we couldn’t focus on U.K., Sweden and Germany remain collection, DnA, which is named for scoured the area and “hired every it like we wanted to.” the company’s largest markets. the company’s founders, David and sewer and cutter within 50 kilome- But the company knows that Although the company is Annie Petersson. ters.” The factory was retrofitted and “customization is a huge trend in best known for its dress shirts, In typical Swedish fashion, the is now producing the DnA offering. our business — people love it. So Wilkinson said the sport shirt cat- anniversary celebration will be low- “DnA is our uberway of doing we’re going to dedicate a couple egory “has been growing like mad,” key, according to Erik Wilkinson, what we do,” he said. DnA shirts of lines in the factory to made-to- led by the Green Ribbon collec- global sales director. The New use the finest fabrics and the de- measure right now and eventually tion of washed styles and the Red York party, for example, will fea- sign features a curve on the bot- open an entire factory for it.” Ribbon easy-care cottons. “This will ture Champagne and Swedish tom of the front placket. “In the Made-to-measure is now only become a real focus for us,” he said. hors d’oeuvres from Aquavit chef Thirties and Forties,” Wilkinson 5 percent of the brand’s business, Other growth categories for Marcus Jernmark and a preview of explained, “wealthier men were but Eton is hoping to double that the company include accessories. the new DnA collection. heavier and the fact that the bot- percentage over the next sev- Wilkinson said Eton had dabbled Later this month, the com- tom circumference of the shirt is eral years. The shirts are being in ties and pocket squares over pany will host a more extensive wider meant that the shirts would produced in Eton factories in the years, but “hit the reset but- A look from the limited-edition DnA line. celebration when it brings 24 re- stay tucked into their trousers. It’s Romania and Estonia. ton” in 2010. “We said that if we tailers from North America to its not easy to do today.” Eton produces nearly 750,000 Davidson said the company was were going to do accessories, we headquarters in Gånghester for an The newly renovated factory shirts a year and has revenue of able to increase its presence in wanted to be to accessories what event it is calling the Eton College has perfected the process and pro- more than 400 million Swedish the U.K. and Denmark, invest in we are to shirts. So we relaunched Trip. Department and specialty duced more than 2,000 shirts for krona, or $60.5 million at current its management team, start an e- it and it has grown by a factor of exchange. Its shirts are carried at commerce business and open ad- seven since then.” He said the more than 1,200 points of sale in 40 ditional stores and shops-in-shop. company will continue to “step markets around the world. Eton operates nine freestanding on the gas with that category” for The primary impetus to Eton’s units around the world, includ- spring, which will also see the “in- growth has been a decision it made ing one in the U.S. at 625 Madison tensification of the formal acces- in May 2012 to sell a majority stake Avenue. There are also 50 shops- sories business” with the addition in the business to Litorina I V, a pri- in-shop around the world. of formal braces, bow ties, pocket vate-equity firm that specializes in The plan, he said, is to grow squares and scarves targeted to acquiring and developing Swedish about 15 percent a year, a figure that end of the business. companies. Under the terms of the company reached last year. Jewelry and other categories of the deal, the descendants of the Wilkinson said although a few accessories are also in the cards Petersson family, which founded final documents need to be signed, for the future, he said, but the Eton in 1928, retained a 35 percent Eton will expand its presence in the focus will always remain on shirts. ownership interest and remain on U.S. with a store in Santa Monica. “We’re shirt specialists and we’ve board to help strategically expand “It’s a fabulous location on the first spent 85 years refining that busi- the business. Nils Vinberg, the for- floor of the Santa Monica Mall,” he ness,” Wilkinson said. mer chief executive officer of Björn said, noting that the store also has Like Davidson, Wilkinson views Borg, was named chairman of Eton, its own street-level entrance. the addition of Litorina as a posi- but Hans Davidson, the grandson of He said adding a West Coast tive for the company. “We now have Annie and David Petersson, stayed beachhead is important for the a board of directors with outside on to run the day-to-day operations company’s future. “Madison expertise,” he said. “It’s great that Eton produces nearly 750,000 shirts a year. as chief executive officer. Avenue is our experimental labo- Hans has some partners on board store customers will be wined and the first season. “Our goal was 1,500 Davidson said the family de- ratory, but for customers on the to help guide us.” dined and given a tour of the com- shirts, but we were able to produce cided to bring in an investor be- West Coast, they had to go to a spe- Davidson, who is 55, said he pany’s factories in its hometown, 2,500,” he said. The shirts will retail cause it “saw a lot of potential and cialty store to see our product. This plans to stay in place as ceo for followed by a trip to Stockholm, for $395, a premium over the core growth opportunities. To make will give us a real footprint and the foreseeable future and he has where they will visit the Eton product, which averages $255. “It’s sure we could grow Eton into we’ll have anchors on both coasts.” three children who may one day store, showroom and design studio. about 50 percent more expensive, a strong, international fashion Beyond that, he said there are opt to step into the family business. “They’ll see how the shirts are mainly due to the fabrics.” brand, we needed more capital.” no plans to add more freestanding And to what does he attribute made — the whole process, from The DnA collection will be of- He said over the past year, the stores in the U.S. Instead, Eton has the company’s staying power? cotton balls to finished shirts,” fered in about a dozen stores in association has been beneficial. been “aggressive” about adding “From the beginning, we’ve been Wilkinson said. North America, including Eton’s “Litorina is a very good partner — shops-in-shop. “We opened 30 in focused on the details,” he said. The goal, he added, is to hold own branded retail units. “We plan very supportive,” he said. “They North America in the last six sea- “We strive to make the best possi- this event every year in the spring or on continuing with it,” he said. “It really don’t interfere. It’s more like sons,” Wilkinson said. “Then we’ll ble shirt — that’s a keystone of the early fall when the weather is most will always be limited distribution, they’re an advisory board.” add another dozen before the end company. Yo u can see it in every- temperate. “We look at it like we’re but it will grow.” With the additional funding, of the year.” thing that we do.”

Dior Homme Adds Artworks to N .Y. , Beverly Hills Stores “It is dealing with people dealing with their own bodies and thinking about cov- by DAVID LIPKE es where “the meaning has been almost com- The Aaron Curry artwork in the Beverly Hills store. ering their skin, the way that people ob- pletely wrung out of it,” as he puts it, and re- sesses about their own bodies before get- DIOR HOMME is extending a strategy of in- contextualizing the possible interpretations. ting dressed,” explained Curry of the work, stalling site-specific artworks in key retail “I had the phrase ‘How Do I Look?’ in mind which is at once playful and unsettling. “It stores to elevate the brand, create engaging as I had made collages of someone getting seemed particularly appropriate for L.A.” selling spaces and tailor each boutique to the dressed in front of a mirror about seven Curry is known for working with vivid local geography. On Tuesday, the luxury brand years ago,” said Keegan. “It was a perfect color but stuck to mostly black and white for installed a text-based work by Matt Keegan in question, a familiar phrase that becomes a this work — a nod to Dior Homme’s affinity the windows of its 57th Street flagship in New play on a question asked in the retail space for muted tones. Yo r k and a sculpture by Aaron Curry in the and also about the work of art itself.” The new, permanent artworks, which are Beverly Hills store on North Rodeo Drive. Due to the mirrored, reflective surface owned by Dior Homme, join existing piec- Both artists were selected by Dior of the sculpture, the artwork will shift and es installed in the company’s Miami, San Homme creative director Kris Van Assche mutate as people walk by it on the street. Francisco and SoHo stores. The latter unit and given carte blanche to create custom “This interaction will be the most dynamic in downtown New York showcases a text- works for the respective retail units. “It is part of the sculpture; it is made for that foot- based sculpture by post-situationist artist always interesting to meet new artists and fall,” observed Keegan. “I am happy there is Robert Montgomery, which reads “Whenever build new collaborations. It is one of the something odd enough to it that it takes in you see the sun reflected in the window of a great pleasures in our approach to Dior that cacophonous street.” building it is an angel.” Homme,” said Van Assche. “Each collabo- In contrast, Los Angeles-based Curry’s In Miami, Dior Homme commissioned ration is unique, and in this way the global 17-foot-tall abstract sculpture is oriented to- Bruce Weber to create a film, titled “Can I identity of the stores is given a further, per- wards that city’s car culture. The creation can Make the Music Fly,” which is shown on a sonal layer that is tied to a sense of place.” be viewed from a distance as well as up close continuous loop on a series of stacked plasma The 57th Street work by New York-based to the shop window. Fashioned from card- video screens. The film features ballet dancer Keegan is an eight-and-a-half-foot sheet board and plastered with photo prints of the Sergei Polunin, pianist Mason Buccheri and of curled steel, with the phrase “How Do I artist’s own skin and hair, the totemic sculp- MICHAEL URBANEK violinists Charlie Siem and Claudius Agrippa. Look?” repeatedly punched out of it. The ture, primitive and cubist in form, is topped The San Francisco store is adorned with

artist is known for manipulating stock phras- with a head of sorts protruding through a box. PHOTO BY a wall mural by local artist Hannah Stouffer.

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 Men’s Week

“Sci-fi nautical.” — Patrik Ervell

Designer Inspirations

As retailers and editors take their marks for the marathon of shows that define New York Fashion Week, designers provide a peek at their inspiration for the summer collections — everything from the energy of the urban streets to the azure waters of the Aegean Sea. — Luis Campuzano

“street / sport / archetype / remix.” — Ricky Hendry and Marc Daniels, Isaora ▲“Greek Idylls: cruising the Aegean; ouzo on the beach; dancing all night.” — Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel, Parke and Ronen “TWO-GUN HART.” “Prison.” — Siki Im — Daisuke Obana, N. Hoolywood ▲ Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 MW5

“Our influences this season visited the notion of my journey as a young man from the South, merging into the free- spirited culture “City Beats.” of Southern — Donna Karan, DKNY Men California. For me personally, that experience meant combining my wardrobe of denim and outdoor staples with beach-inspired SPRING 2014 pieces. What evolved was a NEW YORK unique closet MEN’S that straddled COLLECTIONS traditional American clothing, hard- core workwear, and surf textures and shapes.” — Billy Reid

“Camouflage and color go together like white on rice.” — Mark McNairy, Mark McNairy New Amsterdam

“Transform the Ordinary.” — Daniel Silver and “French Guys.” Steven Cox, Duckie Brown — Michael Bastian LAMBERT ALIX BY CAIN” OF “MARK IM: “An apocalypse and new beginning for SIKI PATAGONIA; the new world.” CAVE, — Shayne Oliver, MARBLE Hood by Air PHOTO: ERVELL MW6 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 Men’s Week

“This season was an exploration into movement, both figuratively and literally. Through examining the ideas of progress and elevation, we looked to build the collection through the lens of fluidity, transparency and precision.” — Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, Public School

Designer Inspirations

“A futuristic take on performance, texture and comfort.” — Micah Cohen, Shades of Grey by Micah Cohen ▲

“Power is the man and the city who act with absolute certainty in overcoming challenges and adapting to trends by making them their own. This is where New York and

▲ “Inspired by stylist icon Ray Petri and the Buffalo Collective. Shanghai meet.” Tailored men’s wear mixed with sportswear pays homage to — Ricardo British fashion.” — Liam and Sammy Fayed, Bespoken Seco (2000-09)

“For spring ’14 we’re bringing ▼ “General Idea was particularly a lot of olive mesmerized by the materials and tones into the fabrications integrated in automobile mix, with floral design — trying to portray the structure accents to keep and balance, but also focusing

LTD MORGAN, WESTZONE PUBLISHING it light and on functionality.” fun.” — Ernest — Bumsuk Choi, General Idea Sabine,

JONES, JAMIE Ernest Alexander DYLAN RAMBALI,

PAUL MITZI LORENZ, “Somewhat

PETRI,” BY Soviet.” — Robert Geller ▲ “David Hart spring 2014 is about the golden age of travel. I was inspired by Hawaiian tourism during the late 1950s and early Sixties and how Hawaiians created and capitalized off of a new and emerging industry. I was also greatly influenced by Alfred Eisenstaedt photographs from the 1950s.” — David Hart RAY BESPOKEN PHOTO FROM “BUFFALO: Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 MW7

“This season’s fabric blocking, lacing details and padding reference vintage photographs of some of the greatest athletes in history, from Muhammad Ali to Jackie Robinson.” — Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper, “Rebel Charm.” Rochambeau — Todd Snyder

“‘Meaningless Excitement,’ this season Adidas and Yohji Yamamoto reflect on digital life and culture’s relentless pursuit SPRING 2014 of the next big thing.” — Adidas and Yohji Yamamoto, Y-3 NEW YORK “Circles & MEN’S COLLECTIONS Squares.” — Porsche Design

“Inspiration for this collection was taken right from the fields where Pele and Maradona once dominated, leaving behind much more than a legacy but also a lifestyle. Unique prints were developed with the love of the game in mind and creatively placed on woven shirts, polos and raglan-sleeve sweaters throughout this collection.” — Carlos Campos “Performance Modern Sail.” — Chris Cox, Black Sail by Nautica MW8 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2013 Men’s Week

Man of Ralph Opens Shoe Salon at Rhinelander THE WEEK JOHN KERRY: B- RALPH LAUREN is jumping Lauren Purple Label shoe tree. range from $450 to $650. on the red-hot footwear craze. Prices for Purple Label The shop is located on the  This week, the designer is shoes include $650 for mono- first floor of the store and in- The Secretary of State looks like a peacemaker opening his first Shoe Salon grammed velvet slippers, $1,250 cludes carved moldings and in his subtle pinstripe navy suit and baby blue — a 450-square-foot boutique for calfskin shoes and $6,500 equestrian-inspired artwork. for men’s footwear at the for crocodile boots. Polo shoes — JEAN E. PALMIERI tie. But he needs to be a bit more aggressive — Rhinelander Mansion flagship in his dress at least. Boooring.… at 867 Madison Avenue in New York. The shop will feature the full breadth of the company’s He needs a major trim His elongated torso footwear offerings, including to avoid moving into Jay would benefit from Ralph Lauren footwear, Ralph Leno territory. There’s a well-constructed Lauren Purple Label footwear nothing to be done about shoulder that would and Ralph Lauren made-to-or- the hound-dog eyes, but highlight him as a der footwear. a sharper haircut would man of power. But The made-to-order selection make him look more awake. at least the droopy will include a variety of dress shoulder works with shoes in fabrics ranging from the droopy eyes. leather and suede to crocodile skins, custom-made to exact A half-Windsor specifications of size, width and tie knot would last. The shoes will be produced work better with in Italy and each pair will be the shirt collar monogrammed with hand-en- and give him a bit graved nail heads on the sole. of needed cachet. They are delivered in a mono- The salon is on the first floor. grammed dust bag with a Ralph

Dockers Spotlights Alpha Collection

The collar is DOCKERS WANTS to be part of the energy of Looks from the Alpha Collection. slightly too pointy New York Fashion Week. If he chooses to buy and long — a bit too The San Francisco-based brand took over the an off-the-rack suit, Eighties banker. Highline Stages in the Meatpacking District on he needs to make sure Tuesday night — the eve of fashion week — to the sleeves are altered celebrate the launch of its new Alpha Collection. properly. At 6-feet, Although the brand had already offered the up- 4-inches, there’s no dated khaki pants, this fall marks the debut of an excuse for sleeves entire collection under the Alpha name. that long. “This really marks the beginning of the fu- ture of the brand,” said Doug Conklyn, head of The silhouette global design. “We’ve gone from just pants to of the suit is head-to-toe sportswear with a pants point of outdated. Hit any view.” That means the line of shirts, jackets and self-respecting The cap-toe lace-up is sweaters was designed to “sit together” seam- men’s store and lessly with the pants. very chic and extremely buy something appropriate. “It’s important to understand the DNA of the from this decade. brand,” Conklyn added. “It’s an American brand and is classic and authentic with a laid-back San Francisco sensibility. The colors, finishes and patterns are inspired by that. But we’re not chas- ing trends.” He said Alpha is “stylish and youth- ful to engage with a younger guy,” but the pants

PHOTO BY FERNANDO VERGARA/AP/PRESS ASSOCIATION IMAGES FERNANDO VERGARA/AP/PRESS ASSOCIATION PHOTO BY are offered in three fits in order to make sure it appeals to all customers. The event also served to pub- licize the company’s pop-up shop at 25 Howard Street called the Dockers General Store that will remain in place for four weeks. British rapper Tinie Tempah provided the evening’s entertain- ment and visited the store on Wednesday to meet customers. — J.E.P.

Tinie Tempah and Doug Conklyn

ANNIVERSARY