THE SPREAD Artisanal

SWEET ESCAPE Suárez bakery, a nostalgia-inducing family-run business, holds court amongst a booming city.

words SUNNY HUBLER photos JAMEY PRICE

Suárez Bakery has one heck of an firmly rooted in Charlotte’s own history. migrating, Carlos tragically lost two of origin story. If you’ve heard of the Cu- Suárez’s owner, Carlos Suárez, is the his brothers in two short weeks, which in ban-influenced sweets mecca in Park son of a freedom fighter who narrowly turn escalated to their father’s decline. He Road Shopping Center, by now you may escaped Castro’s Cuba with his wife and finally decided to open Suárez in 1992 in also have heard its infamous backstory. their young children in tow. The patri- what used to be the old Federal Bake Shop. The popular, bustling spot that opened arch of the family, Roberto, became pres- But here’s the thing: This isn’t really in the early nineties—now serving up ident of The Charlotte Observer in 1972. the whole story of Suárez bakery. It be- everything from picture-worthy letter- Carlos’ family made it to America— came a stand-in, the immediate asso- shaped donuts to detailed custom wed- first Miami, then Charlotte—but it wasn’t ciation with the shop. But everyone has ding cakes—gained a whole lot of trac- ever an easy ride. The Suárezes went a past, and what Suarez is doing—and tion when the tale behind the treats ran through the trials and tribulations many doing successfully—is sailing smoothly in the presses in 2012. immigrants endure. There was a new life, into a future that was built on that most Indeed, the story of the Suárez fam- new norms, new language…but they also traditional of foundations: blood, sweat, ily is quite a saga, and one that’s also endured unique struggles. Years after im- tears. Jesse Suárez, Carlos’ son and the

“Working with family can be challenging at times, but at the end of the day it’s rewarding to have a big impact on something with my name on it.”

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head baker, explains the place as “inno- ed for this to be a family business, I’m technique, toying with Mexican sweets vation and familiarity.” glad to be able to work with my sons on and social media fodder like those This is a family nurturing a passion in a daily basis.” pink alphabet donuts and decadent the present day, and that’s what really Jesse expresses a similar “je ne sais cupcakes. gets people fired up about this little slice quoi” about finding himself in a family “The Cuban specialties we make—like of nostalgia headed by a man who is, business. He grew up around the bakery, our Cuban bread, guava pastelitos, and simply, a wizard in the kitchen. but didn’t start officially until 2008. Tres Leches cake—are things I grew up Carlos Sr. is a lean man with a quick “Working with family can be eating in Miami, and the more modern grin and distinctive shaggy long locks. challenging at times, but at the end items are influenced by our young and Like his sons, Carlos Jr. and Jesse, he of the day it’s rewarding to have a big creative team,” Carlos explains. is soft-spoken and careful, but more impact on something with my name on Suárez is a slice of nostalgia: an old- than ready to talk about anything that it. As is usually the case with children school counter service bakery that pertains to the shop. The rest of it? joining in their family’s business, it draws a dedicated crowd—the birthday They’re all a bit reserved…and why wasn’t something I planned, but rather cakes for the same family ordered every not? The Suárez that exists today is the something I fell into.” year, the pastry purchased with a hot cup Suárez that deserves attention. We all Carlos built a place to honor the o’ coffee eaten before work every single want our children to grow up. European roots of baking, and used morning. But the bakery’s story isn’t “I started working in hotel kitchens, many of the classic American goods just its past. The family, and the whole which led me to discovering and be- on the menu as an homage to the 1950s operation, is looking forward, savoring coming obsessed with baking,” Carlos bakery that occupied the space before. each day. explains. “It was a craft that just came It’s something of an anomaly, dishing natural to me. And while I never intend- up Cuban bread, cooking with French info suarezbakery.com

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