SPECS™ SIMICHROME POLISH FRAME MENDER For use on plastic eyeglass frames Strong, permanent repairs - Works in just minutes !
SPECS"' Frame Mender is an easy-to-use adhesive for plastic eyeglass frame repairs. NX-135 1 OR2 3 - 11 12 Fast, sets up in one TUBE (50 GR./1.76 OZ.) $ 3.40 $ 2.90 $2.60 minutes. Glasses may be worn in one hour. NX-136 1OR2 3 - 11 12 Use for regular glasses CAN (250 GR/8.82 OZ.) $11.95 $10.75 $9.55 or sunglasses. Works on most plastic eye glass frames. A soft, paste polish for chrome, silver, Do not use on metal aluminum, brass ... Virtually any metal. frames. Cleans to a brilliant shine and leaves Non-spill bottle. a protective film. EFR-1 $2.95 Made in Germany. VIGOR® HELPS YOU ATTACK t~~tal Clear™ and dissolve unwanted cured resins! ULTRAVIOLET GLASS ADHESIVE For Glass or Mineral Watch Crystals
Cleans cured resins from metal, stone, glass, wood #CGA-1 and many Cures In Seconds other materials.
Ideal for bead $2.95 each (4 for $10.00) cleaning. DURO""' CRYSTAL CLEAR Glass Adhesive has the same clarity as glass, providing an invisible bond line. Expose to daylight (ultraviolet rays) to cure in seconds. Only the ad hesive in the bond area will cure; any excess easily wipes away. Can be used for stained glass (not opaque) and bond ing metal to glass. Perfect for repairing fine glassware, #CE-456 8 Oz. Can $4.50 servingware and crystal.
P.O. BOX 64561 ST. PAUL, MN 55164 NATIONAL WATS-Orders Only 800-328-0205 Esslinger & Co. MINNESOTA WATS-Orders Only 800-392-0334 * Inquiries-Information 612-452-7180 VOLUME 12, NUMBER 11 NOVEMBER 1988 -- HOROLOGICAL
Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute 6 ROBERT F. BISHOP 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE HENRY B. FRIED QUESTIONS & ANSWERS 6 A Doll Swinger Clock by Farcot BUDDY CARPENTER WATCHES INSIDE & OUT 10 The Simple, One Switch Power Supply New JAMES ADAMS NOVICE WATCHMAKER 14 The Quartz Watch Analog-Digital Clock Videos JOHN A. NAGLE HODGE PODGE LODGE 16 Gongs, Chimes and H */l's Bells
ARCHIE B. PERKINS TECHNICALLY WATCHES Now Available Antique Watch Restoration, Part XXXV 18 The Design of Gear Teeth for Watch Main Train Wheels 24
JOHNPLEWES CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT 22 Pendulum Lengths for Spare Movements
MARVIN E. WHITNEY MILITARY TIME 27 Civil Date Indicator Aeronautical Clock
WES DOOR SHOP TALK Sizing 30 Quartz Module Retrofitting CHARLES CLEVES OLD WATCHES Tap Drills 32 Movado-Ahead of its Time LEO A. JAROSLAW CLOCK TROUBLESHOOTING 40 34 A Diagnostic Systems Approach, Part Two MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL 38 Solder Problems DEPARTMENTS THOMAS H. WHITE AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN 42 Growth in Strength New Members/8 Forum/26 Bulletin Board/36 Association News/42 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 New Products/News in the Trade/43 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class Classified Ads/45 postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, Advertisers' lndex/48 P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/48 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Daylight Time). Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24 hours, recording). George Daniels Henry B. Fried * FELLOWS * Josephine F. Hagans OF THE AMERICAN Orville R. Hagans Robert A. Nelson WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Hamilton E. Pease EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES Milton C. Stevens AWi Central Marvin E. Whitney P.O. Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838
Milton C. Stevens: Interim Editor Michael P. Danner: Interim Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor Donna Baas: Production Director
Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager Mildred Howard: Circulation --;t':e original subject of this column was to inform you that a ten dollar dues increase TECHNICAL EDITORS: / :as absolutely necessary to maintain and improve our services to the membership. The reasons were valid, and I am sure they would have been accepted by the vast majority of you. James Adams Wes Door A special meeting of the Board of Directors was held in Pittsburgh, PA on Sept. Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried 17th. One of the first actions of the Board was to rescind this dues increase. Perhaps you James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman already know the reason. An opportunity arose to sell one of the watches in our collec tion to Patek Philippe, who made the watch in 1922. It will remain in their private Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson museum. and not be resold for profit. The $1.3 million realized from this sale represents Edgar "Nick" Cl eves Archie B. Perkins a major milestone in the history of AWL What better way to start than by reducing your Steven G. C0nover Marshall F. Richmond dues by ten dollars. However, that is just the beginning, and the rest of the meeting was Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney spent in planning the stewardship of your money. First and most important, we decided that the principle must remain intact, just AW/ OFFICERS: as the watch remained intact in the vault, and that it is to be invested only in securities guaranteed by the U.S. Government. Second, the A WI Perpetuation Fund Committee was formed to carry out the Robert F. Bishop, CEWS: President administration of the fund. The name "Perpetuation" was chosen because it most nearly Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CEWS: 1st V. President describes the purpose of the fund; that A WI will survive and be able to provide service Wes Door, CMW: Secretary to its members, regardless of the future level of membership. This will be a Constitu tional Committee, requiring amendments to the Constitution and By-laws. Until then, Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer the Board of Directors and the Trustees of the Fund Committee are bound to abide by the conditions set forth by the proposed amendments. AW/ DIRECTORS: The Fund Committee is authorized to recommend the sale of other pieces of our collection as the opportunity arises, provided that it has the approval of the Board of Directors. We hope to increase the Fund so that it will be large enough to provide major James Adams, CMW improvements in our services to you, particularly in the field of education. A compre James H. Broughton, CEWS hensive plan for the use of the income from the Fund will be ready in a few months. Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS Serious suggestions are welcome. Henry Frystak, CMW In order to prevent future Boards and Officers from recklessly altering the use of Ewell D. Hartman, CMW the principle, safeguards will be provided in the Constitution. Any changes in the purpose and use of the assets of the Fund will require an 80% approval of the Fund Trustees, Donald R. Lake Judicial Committee, and the Board of Directors, and 7 5% of the members. Ben Matz, CMW The Perpetuation Fund Committee will consist of three ex-Presidents serving as Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS, FAWI Trustees. The Executive Secretary and A WI President will also be Trustees, with the Marshall F. Richmond, CMW President acting as Chairman. Another positive result of this meeting was the removal of the $2.00 service charge to members for excessive use of technical services. Although this affected few of Thomas H. White: Affiliate Chapter Director our members financially, it was a nuisance to all to send in the cards each time. Dwight Tubb: Research and Education I was very proud of the Fund Committee (Henry Fried, Gerry Jaeger, and Marvin Council Director Whitney-the Directors) and Milt Stevens and Mike Danner at this meeting. Their dedica William Biederman, CMW: Past President tion to the membership and intelligent decisions made will do much to make this new era in A WI history a success.
M ii ton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director
Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without per mission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copy right© 1988 by the American Watchmakers Institute. ON THE FRONT: AWi member James B. Downs of Cincinnati submitted this slide of the California coast, which was photographed by his father.
2 Horological Times/November 1988
EXPANDING AWi EDUCATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES
ecau e of the anticipated increased funding resulting from the establishment of the Perpetuation Fund, A WI is able to expand the educational opportunities it provides for 8 members. During recent years a large number of scheduled workshops had to be cancelled because there were not enough enrollments to cover the expenses involved in presenting the pro- grams. Income from the Fund will allow us to subsidize some of the costs involved in presenting programs across the country. Your help is needed to schedule the programs you seek in a location convenient to you. The mailing envelope of this issue lists more than 200 locations we have identified as prospective locations for workshops in the United States and Canada. We need to know which programs are desired in which locations. We ask every member who is interested in attending one or more seminars within the next eighteen months to participate in this survey. The Seminar Committee will then match up the most requested workshops with the areas in which we can be reasonably assured of having 12 to 15 participants. The registration fees will be modest for AWi members. The workshops we plan to offer will be in the following areas listed below. We welcome suggestions for other programs that do not appear on the list.
QUARTZ ANALOG WATCHES CLOCK REPAIR a) Repair for the Beginner a) Repair for the Beginner b) Advanced Repair b) Advanced Repair c) Retrofitting to New Cases c) Restoration of Antiques
MECHANICAL WATCH REPAIR UPGRADING OTHER SKILLS a) Modern Techniques a) Lathe Work for Beginners b) Restoration of Antiques b) Advanced Lathe Work c) Fusee Watch Repair c) Store Management
Please take the time to complete the survey so that we can attempt to bring you the programs you most want to attend. IJCIE
The latest up-to-date issue of the American Perf it Crystal Corporation's CASE TO CRYSTAL BOOK is now available. Included in this issue are eighty-six pages of CITIZEN, LOR US, PULSAR, RO LEX, and SEIKO listings.
Order your copy today through your watch material supplier.
AMERICAN PER FIT CRYSTAL CORP. 653 Eleventh Ave. New York, NY 10036
4 Horologi.cal Times/November 1988 ...
ULTRASONJC WATCH RINSING I SOLUTION ~ E:-7:::---
L&R offers a wide range of watch, clock and jewelry cleaning chemicals formulated to meet the needs of today's most exacting professional. Our new packaging makes use and storage easier than ever. . .. more power to clean L&R Manufacturing Company 577 Elm Street Commerce Park/TI"i-Freeway Kearny, New Jersey 07032 USA 700 North Valley Street-Suite B (201) 991-5330 Fax: (201) 991-5870 Anaheim, California 92801 USA 1-800-LR-CLEAN (714) 774-4600 Fax: (714) 533-7230 1-800-325-2627 HT1188 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC
A DOLL SWINGER CLOCK BY FARCOT
Enclosed please find pictures of While working on a clock move a French clock in my possession ment, I broke a drill rod off Q for repair. The clock is in an Q in a pivot. Is there a way I alabaster case and is 9 inches high, can get the drill rod out? How can 7'h inches wide at the base, and 3 inches I repair the damage? Can I anneal it thick at the base. and then repivot? Could you supply any informa Any advice on how to correct tion that might be available as to age and this problem would be appreciated. the maker? Stephens M. Barnhouse Please note the picture that Eldon, MO covers the back of the movement. The original hanger for the pendulum was missing, and while this hanger works Should a drill break off while quite well, if I could obtain a picture of attempting to drill for pivoting, the original hanger I could make a new A it can be removed in various one and keep the clock in its original ways. One is to soften the arbor (only) state. to a blue or just when it begins to lose the Hugh W. Drake blue. Then, placing the arbor on a steel Montrose, CA bench block or the staking set with a plat/arm-type stump, tap the arbor while the punch (fl.at face) is being tapped with the hammer. This stretches the arbor. The drill inside and the stump and punch outside will do this and loosen the drill since the arbor's diameter is being peened. The drill then can be eased outward. With the new drill and a well-fitting pivot inserted before cutting to size, true the arbor and then pivot to complete the job. Another method is to heat the arbor and drill so that the drill can be Farcot is listed in Tardy 's softened and drilled out. French makers as working in You can also cut away some A Paris. He made several types of of the arbor until the drill is exposed clocks including the doll swinger using and then removed. The new pivot can a Garnier type of escapement. I have then be inserted so that the extension one like it in my collection. Your doll of the pivot is just as thick as the arbor. is pretty good, although the original The thin pivot should be cut so that the had a cherub as the swinger (as mine has). arbor length now includes a shoulder Enclosed you will find a photo which actually is part of the new pivot. copy of an American version by Florence Capping is another method. Kroeber(a male), patent number 184,972 Each method has its own champions ofDecember 5, 1878. who have certain degrees of preferences. Farcot is listed as producing Some purists would suggest an entirely between 1858 and 1862. new arbor. Kroeber's cherub is about the The quality of the clock and the same type as my French swinger. I'd fee you are getting might dictate which leave what you've done alone. It looks method is best. well enough except for the suspension Henry B. Fried which ought to have a suspension spring. UDB 6 Horological Times/November 1988 Flat Waterproof Gaskets
REflLL Sll)Cl( WIOTKOf INSIDE OUT SIOE HUMBER HUM BER BAND MIM OI A.M/M OIA.M/ M .llttrel 00 616 .60 15.90 17.10 o. 6161 .50 16.50 17.50 OA 617 .55 16.90 18.00 OB 618 .55 18.00 19.IO oc 6191 .50 19.20 20.20 1. 619f .60 19.80 21.00 IA 6201 .60 20.35 21.50 lB 621 .60 21.00 22.20 2. 621! .60 21.60 22.80 •~ ING 3. 6221 .60 22.35 23.45 3A 623 .50 22.90 23.90 4. 623) .60 23.40 24.60 5. 625 .65 25.00 26.30 Borel 0-Ring Gaskets 6. 626 .60 26.00 27.20 7. 626f .65 26.80 28.10 for Casebacks and 8. 627f .60 27.85 29.10 9. 628! .60 28.55 29.75 Battery hatches 0-Ring Price 10. 717 .70 17.00 18.40 11. 718! .70 18.60 20.00 60/1 1 each of 86 sizes 18.75 12. 7201 .70 20.60 22.00 Cross section - inside diameter (in mm)- 60/1 B 1 each of 120 sizes 26.00 12A 723 .75 23,10 24.60 13. 724 .75 24.00 25.50 60/3 3 each of 86 sizes 37.50 13A 724! .70 24.60 26.00 Battery 60-1750 75-2760 90-2670 14. 725! .70 25.65 27.00 60/36 3 each of 120 sizes 52.50 14A 726 .75 26.00 27.50 Hatch 60-1790 75-2790 90-2710 61/1 1 each of 42 sizes 10.95 15. 726l .75 26.50 28.00 Gaskets 60-1970 75-2825 90-2740 16. 727 .70 27.10 28.50 62/3 3 each of 8 best sizes 6.25 17. 727! .75 27.50 29.00 45-0810 * 60-2100 75-2880 90-2780 18. 727f .70 27.70 29.10 40-1100 * 64/3 3 ea of 22 thin sizes 19.95 18A 728 .75 28.00 29.50 60-2165 75-2910 90-2810 19. 7281 .70 28.20 29.60 40-1250 * 60-2500 75-2940 90-2840 19A 728! .70 28.60 30.00 20. 729 .70 29.00 30.40 60-1000 * 60-2700 * 75-2970 90-2850 Round Flat Price 21. 730 .75 30.00 31.50 60-2800 * 75-2990 90-2860 21A 730! .70 30.40 31.50 Case back 60-2900 * 75-3005 90-2880 58/1 1 each of 91 sizes 26.50 22. 731! .75 31.50 33.00 58/3 3 each of 91 sizes 55.70 Gaskets 60-2950 75-3080 90-2900 23. 8171 .80 17.20 18.80 35-1800 * 60-3000 * 75-3100 90-2930 55/3 3 each of 8 best sizes 16.50 24. 8181 .80 18.20 19.80 25, 8191 .80 19.30 20.90 35-2000 * 60-3190 75-3140 90-2950 26. 8211 .80 21.60 23.20 35-2100 * 60-3260 90-2980 26A 823: .80 25.50 25.10 New Black Flat Price 26B 824) .80 24.60 26.20 35-2400 * 60-3400 80-1650 90-3000 26C 825J .80 25.60 27.20 35-2500 * 80-1690 90-3020 59/2 2 each of 30 sizes 19.95 27. 826~ _85 26.30 28.00 28. 826) .80 26.60 28.20 70-1760 80-1750 90-3040 29. 826f .80 26.80 28.40 40-1400. 70-1850 80-1870 90-3050 30. 827} .85 27.30 29.00 3L 827: .80 27.60 29.25 40-1500 * 70-1890 80-2030 90-3060 32. 827l .80 27.85 29.50 40-1600 * 70-1930 80-2100 90-3100 33_ 828 .80 28.00 29.60 34. 8281 40-1700 * .80 28.35 29.90 70-1960 80-2750 90-3140 "'" "'"''" 35. 828f .80 28.70 30.30 40-1900 * ~ 36. 829~ .80 29.40 31 ,00 70-1980 80-2800 90-3160 New Black Flat 37. 830~ .85 30.60 32.30 40-2300 * 70-2080 80-2840 90-3180 38. 83!f .80 31.65 33.30 40-2700 * 70-2130 80-2900 90-3200 (soft rubber) 39. 8341 .80 34.20 35.80 40-2780 70-2330 80-2910 40. 9131 .90 13.20 15.00 40-2800 * 70-2470 80-2930 95-2050 Refill Inside Outside 41. 917 .90 16.90 18.70 40-2900 70-2660 # diameter diameter 42. 918 .95 18.05 19.95 80-2960 95-2840 42A 920! .90 20.20 22.00 40-3000 * 70-2710 80-3050 95-2960 43. 921 .90 21 .00 22.80 40-3070 101 15.00 x 17.00 44_ 922! .90 22.40 24.20. 70-2760 80-3070 95-3000 102 17.00 x 18.00 45. 925t .90 25.25 27.00 40-3080 70-2780 80-3130 95-3180 103 17.80 )( 18.70 46. 925) .95 25.55 27.45 47. 9261 70-2810 80-3160 95-3360 104 18.50 x 19.50 .90 26.80 28.50 105 19.20 x 20.30 48. 928t .90 28.20 30.00 928) 50-1650 * 70-2870 80-3240 106 19.50 x 20.50 49. .90 28.60 30.45 50. 929 .90 28.'IO 107 20.00 x 21 .25 30.70 50-1770 70-2900 80-3280 100-1900 51. 9311 .95 31.20 33.10 50-2030 70-2940 100-2625 108 21 .00 x 22.50 52. 9321 .95 32.80 34.70 109 22.25 x 23.75 53. 9331 .90 33.20 35.00 50-2070 70-2980 85-1880 100-2750 110 23.00 x 25.00 111 24.00 x 25.50 50-2200 * 70-3005 85-2330 100-2850 54. 10221 1.05 2240 24.50 112 23.50 x 25.50 50-2400 * 70-3020 85-2660 55. 1024 l.00 24.00 26.00 100-2910 113 24.00 x 26.00 56. 1024: l.00 24.50 26.50 50-2500 * 70-3060 85-2790 100-2930 114 25.50 x 26.50 57. 1025 1.00 24.90 26.90 50-2600 115 26.00 x 27.50 58. 10261 1.00 26.50 2R.50 * 70-3080 85-2840 100-2950 116 26.50 x 27.50 59. 10261 I.OS 26.80 28.90 50-2700 * 70-3140 85-2940 100-2975 117 26.50 x 28.50 60. 1027 1.00 27.00 29.00 61. 10281 1.05 28.70 50-2800* 70-3200 100-3000 116 27.00 x 26.50 30.80 119 27.25 x 26.75 62. 1029 1.00 29.00 31.00 63. 10291 l.00 29.80 50-2840 70-3260 90-1830 100-3050 120 28.00 x 29.25 31.80 64. 10321 1.00 32.30 34.30 50-2900 * 70-3300 90-1850 100-3075 121 28.00 x 29.50 50-3000 122 28.50 x 29.50 * 90-1880 100-3175 123 29.00 x 30.00 65. 11251 1.10 25.25 27.>v 50-3100 * 75-1650 90-1920 100-3200 124 28.50 x 30.40 65A 1127t I .JO 27.25 29.40 50-3200 * 75-1880 90-2050 100-3280 125 29.00 x 30.50 126 28.75 x 30.75 66. 12241 l.20 24.80 27.20 50-3300. 75-1920 90-2070 127 29.50 x 31.00 67. 1226 1.20 26.00 28.40 128 30.00 x 31 .50 1;8, 12271 1.15 27-20 29,50 75-1980 90-2130 *New size 1228 129 30.00 x 32.00 69. l.20 28.00 30.40 60-1450 90-2220 70. 1230 1.25 30.00 32.50 75-2160 130 31.50 x 33.50 60-1550 71. 1230.l 1.15 30.70 33.00 75-2600 90-2510 72. 1235 1.20 35.15 37.55
JulesBorel&Company, 1110GrandAvenue, Kansas City, M064106 National Order Desk - 1-800-333-4646 Borel & Frei, 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014 .llttrel National Order Desk - 1-800-654-9591 .llttrel Otto Frei - Jules Borel, P.O. Box 796, Oakland, CA 94604 National Order Desk- 1-800-772-3456
November 1988/Horological Times 7 We Salute These New ltlen1bersl
ACQUISTO, Andrew-Valley Stream, NY CASEY, Joyce E.-Jefferson, WI ELDER, Gene 0.-0klahoma City, OK AMMONS, Joel-Rutherfordton, NC CEGELKA, Anthony F.-Glen Rock, PA ESCH, Elam M.-Honey Brook, PA ANDERSEN, David-Ferndale, CA CHI, Dao-Torrance, CA FAY, Patrick J.-Bayonne, NJ BALENTINE, Roy L.-Murray, KY Sponsor: Raphael T. Lopez-Los Angeles, CA FREE, David E.-Huber Heights, OH BARNARD, Linda-Shakopee, MN CHRISTINE, Edward R., Jr.-Allentown, PA GARCIA-RUBALCAVA, Fidel- BECKNER, David C.-Barrie, Ontario, Canada COHEN, Richard-Philadelphia, PA San Fernando, CA BING EL, Michael J.-Waltham, MA CONNER, Gene R.-Arlington, VA Sponsor: Desiderio 0. Alvarez-Phoenix, AZ BUMPERS, Rocky-Butler, AL CRUZ, Nelson W.-Bronx, NY GOW, David G.-Worcester, MA CABANISS, Jelks H., Jr.-Marshall, VA DAVIS, Max--Sylvania, 0 H GROVE, Tim-Paris, TX CARDENAS, Eduardo-Los Angeles, CA DESALES, Juan-Huntington Park, CA GUNN, DennisWayne-Magalia, CA Sponsor: Raphael T. Lopez- Los Angeles, CA Sponsor: Raphael T. Lopez-Los Angeles, CA HEIDEN, John S.-Barrington, IL HICKEY, Daniel J.-Solvang, CA HON NI NG, Bengt E.-Long Beach, CA HOPPER, John-Naples, FL HUBER, Donald K.-West Hartford, CT JOHNSON, Darryl-Waldorf, MD KANDELS, Linda-St. Paul, MN KELLER, Roger E.-Kapaau, HI KENDLE, Larry-Hastings, MN KHAN Kl N, Efim-Southfield, Ml KNOWLTON, Richard W.-Richardson, TX LARSON, Don-S. St. Paul, MN LEWIS, Paul-Scottsdale, AZ MARKHAM , Lane-Farmers Branch, TX MARKLE, BlairA.-Ouincy, IL McDONALD, Christopher H.-Norcross, GA NAULT, Kyle-Port Orchard, WA NEHLS, Richard A.-Laguna Niguel, CA Sponsor: Raphael T. Lopez-Los Angeles, CA NEY, H. Ross-Watertown, NY PHAM, Khue-Charlotte, NC RANDLEMAN, Craig-Ortonville, MN RANI GA, P.D.-Longview, TX ROBINSON , Barbara J.-Huntsville, AL Sponsor: Cameron C. Spicknall-Elmira, NY SHARP· QUARTZ for Quality, Style, Br Value RUIZ, Timothy D.-Maeystown, IL • Quality & Dependability backed by a name RUKAS, Tom-Harlan, IA you can trust SALCE, Luigi C.-Guinebaug, CT • Quartz Reliability - Set it & forget it! SAMRITH, Vandy-St. Paul, MN • Priced from $16.95-59.95. Compares to other SCHWER, Frederick W.-Oakland, CA brands for much, much more! SLAMA, Steven-Minneapolis, MN STEWART, Robert E.-Ripley, TN • Slim Elegance for sport & dress STORROW, James-Stormville, NY • Model features include: THACKER, BA-Charlottesville, VA • Water Resist • Expansion Bands TIPTON, Samuel L.-Maryville, TN • Day-Date • Genuine Leather Straps TURDIK, Todd-St. Paul, MN • Long Life Batteries • Scratch Resist Mineral Crystals VALERINO, Victor V.-Las Vegas, NV SHARP· 5 YEAR PERFORMANCE WARRANTY* VANWYK, Sharon-St. Paul, MN •5 Vear limited warranty 8Upplied with each watch. Cl Sharp Int. Corp. VIEL, Scott D.-Milwaukee, WI D Please send Sharp Watch Catalog VISSER, Henry-Holland, Ml WEIGEL, John-Sacramento, CA Please Call at ( D WEINBERG, Robert-Germantown, MD NAME ______ACCT.# ______Sponsors: Robert Rothen-Clarksburg, MD ADDRESS------George Tresansky-Kensington, MD CITY ______STATE ____ z1p _____ WEINER, Stephen-San Francisco, CA
P.O. BOX 64561 ST. PAUL, MN 55164 WEINMANN, Oest-Rochester, MN NATIONAL WATS-ORDERS ONLY-800-3211-0205 MINNESOTA WATS-ORDERS ONLY-800-392-0334 WHORTON, Douglas E.-Anchorage, AK * Esslinger &Cb. INQUIRIES-INFOAMATION-612-452-7180
8 Horologi.cal Times/November 1988 NEW J!JDEO-- BASIC JEWELRY BEPlllB FEATURING MARSHALL RICHMOND, AWi JEWELRY REPAIR COURSE INSTRUCTOR AND AUTHOR OF "THE PICKLE BARREL", THE POPULAR JEWELRY REPAIR COLUMN IN HOROLOGICAL TIMES During this 1-hour, 52-minute video, Mr. jewelry repair which are currently appearing in Richmond demonstrates his no-nonsense approach the Horological Times. to basic jewelry work. While he is working at the bench, Richmond's dialogue is full of practical Available in VHS and Beta ...... $49.95 postpaid information and repair tips which he has developed ~------~ during his lifetime career at the jeweler's bench. You'll want to view the tape again and again! Address ______
Some of the projects covered in the tape include: City ______State ___ Zip __
ring sizing stone setting Basic Jewelry Repair Video Tape ring shanks - half & full use of torches __ VHS - $49.95 prong repair & replacement filing Beta - $49.95 prong tipping sawing MAKE CHECKS PAYABLE TO AWi complete ring fabrication finishing Or charge to your D VISA D MASTERCARD The video provides an excellent introduction Account No. ______to basic jewelry repair which could lead to a career in this profitable field. Mr. Richmond employs Expiration Date ------the same curriculum in the video as he used in his Signature ______AWi traveling bench course on basic jewelry repair. Viewers may want to combine viewing the tape Send to: AWi Video Tape Dept., 3700 Harrison Ave., with Mr. Richmond's series of lessons on basic L----!~:_B~~12_02_~~~i~n~'.:_~H~522_1___ J
HOROLOGICAL ~ Bmving yaur TIMES® 00
We have the answer for protecting and organizing your magazines. This leather-look binder holds 12 issues (that's one volume) and is an attractive addition to any library, office or home. No longer will you have to search for that March '79 issue, or wonder if the January '81 went out the door via the last paper drive. All issues can be inserted as you receive them. If you are interested in organization, send a check or money order in the amount of $8.95 to:
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Allow 3 weeks for handling and delivery.
November 1988/Horologi,cal Times 9 WATCHE~
Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS
The Simple, One Switch Power Supply
some years now a number of watchmakers have en "bugging" us to come up with a variable voltage ower supply to be used with a multimeter to make all the tests necessary to repair all electronic watches. The catch is that they want only one switch to perform all the functions. Of course, we told them it could not be done. One of them, Jim Broughton by name, would not take " no" for an answer. So, at his insistance, here is our answer. To make this variable voltage power supply attach ment you will need the following items:
l. One LM324 Quad Op Amp 276-1711 2. One 9-volt Transistor Battery 3. One 9-volt Battery Connector 270-325 w 4. One 5000 Ohm Potentiometer 271-1714 5. One 220 MFD Electrolytic Capacitor 272-1017 6. Two Micro Test Clips 270-370 7. One 2-Position Push Terminal 27 4-315 8. One Economy Case 270-222 9. One 14 Pin Socket 276-1999 10. One ALCO, MTA406P four pole, double throw switch with open center. w :,I (For your convenience we have listed the Radio Shack catalog I numbers for items 1 through 9. There are many other supply I houses who stock these items. They should be able to identify I J2 J0~'~~-1-~~~~v'VV\;'\AN'\.-, them and supply their own stock numbers for the various I_ ------__1 5 K-"-Pot. 111aterials. Item 10 can be found at any other electronic supply house.) v. Battery These items can be used to convert the adapter on a Citizen meter or can be built into a small apparatus box from Figure 1. Wiring diagram. Radio Shack and used with any multimeter. To convert a Citizen meter adapter, you need only remove the switch, bat tery connectors, the three jacks that the meter leads plug into, mounted on the box lid to make assembly and wiring easier. the capacitor, and all wiring except the wires connected to the Be sure to mount the switch so that terminal 1 is located in positive and negative meter plugs. the upper left as you view it from the inside of the box lid The placement of components is not critical except (see Figure 2). in the case of the Citizen adapter. In the Citizen adapter, the 1. To begin wiring, start by soldering an insulated potentiometer (pot.) must be mounted through the right side wire between the following terminals on the back of the of the box, and the switch must be mounted through the switch: 3 to 8, 12 to 10, 4 to 7 to 6. front of the box (see Figure 3). If making an adapter for other 2. The capacitor can be soldered between terminals multimeters you need only take care to keep the pot., switch, 5 and 9, being careful to place the negative lead of the capa and push connectors near the edge of the lid so as not to inter citor on terminal 5. fere with the battery placement. All components can be (Please tum to page 12)
10 Horological Times/November 1988 If you are not using Panasonic Quality Watch Batteries
... what then?
Call 1-800-873-CELL for your closest distributor. November 1988/Horological Times 11 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT (Continued from page 10) ~®--~ J
3. Solder the red lead to the battery connector to terminal 11 of the switch. Also solder a wire from terminal 11 of the switch to terminal 4 of the I.C. 9 4. Solder any insulated wire between terminal 10 Volt Batt. of the switch and terminal 1 of the pot. 5. Solder a 24-inch length of flexible black insulated wire to terminal 8 of the switch and , after passing the end of the wire through a small hole in the box, solder this wire to a black micro test clip. Figure 2. The underside of the lid of the box. 6. Solder a 24-inch length of flexible red insulated wire to terminal 1 of the switch and, after passing the end of this wire through the same small hole used above, solder this wire to a red micro test clip. Also solder an insulated wire be tween terminal 1 of the switch and terminals 1 and 2 of the I.C. 7. Solder an insulated wire between terminal 5 of the 0 0 0 0 switch and the black terminal of the push connector, and sol der an insulated wire between terminal 2 of the switch and the red terminal of the push connector. 8. Solder an insulated wire from terminal 10 of the Pot . switch and terminal 3 of the pot. Now, solder an insulated wire between terminal 3 of the pot. and terminal 11 of the I.C. Also solder the black wire of the battery connector to terminal 3 of the pot. ,t_;:;;" Switch 9. Solder an insulated wire between terminal 3 of the '-~-- I.C . and terminal 2 of the pot. If you are converting a Citizen adapter box you Figure 3. Citizen attachment. would solder switch terminals 2 and 5 to the positive and nega tive plugs respectively, which fit into the meter jacks. Now, with some double-sided tape you can stick the I.C. and the battery to the inside of the box, taking care to see that they do not interfere with the pot., switch, and push set to the lowest DC volt setting above the cell voltage, rotate connectors. All that is left now is to close the box and plug the variable voltage pot. slowly clockwise while watching the in the meter leads to the box. The micro test clips are used to meter pointer. You will be able to supply any desired voltage connect the box to a watch you wish to test. between zero and 7 .5 volts. Now how do we use the meter and our new variable Now is a good time to check for train freedom. While voltage attachment? When a customer brings in a watch for the watch is connected in this manner you simply lower the repair the first test we should make is to check the cell voltage voltage slowly until the watch stops stepping; then raise the before we remove the cell from the watch. To do this we voltage slowly until the watch starts to step again. At this would set the variable voltage adjustment fully counterclock point, note the voltage indicated by the meter. A watch in wise , set the adapter box switch to the left (or volts) position, good order should run at 80% of the normal cell voltage (ex and set out meter function switch to the lowest DC voltage ample: 1.50 V x .80 = 1.2 volts). scale above the expected cell voltage. Now we can connect the Next, to measure current consumption, connect the red micro test clip to the positive side of the cell and the black red micro test clip to the stem (or any positive point on the micro test clip to a negative point on the watch. The meter watch). Connect the black micro test clip to the negative cell will now register cell voltage. contact. Now, with the meter function switch set at the low To test the output of the circuit to the coil, you need est DC volts position above the cell voltage and the adapter only place the meter function switch to the lowest DC voltage box switch in the left (or volts) position, watch the meter setting and place the adapter switch in the left (or volts) pointer as you rotate the variable voltage knob clockwise to position. Then, with sewing needles placed in the micro test 1.5 volts. Now switch the meter function switch to the micro clips, touch the needle points to the coil connection pads and Amp position and change the adapter box switch to the right watch the meter pointer swing alternately upscale and down (or Amp) position. After a brief period of time, the meter scale with each pulse of the circuit output. pointer will settle down and indicate the current consumption. To power a watch with the variable voltage supply Now let's cover the recommended method of testing while monitoring the voltage, you would first remove the cell. a coil for continuity without separating the coil from the cir Now connect the red micro test clip to the stem (or any pos cuit. To start, you rotate the variable voltage knob fully coun itive point on the watch) and connect the black micro test terclockwise, set the adapter box switch to the right (or Amp) clip to the negative cell contact. With the adapter box switch position and set the meter function switch to DC microAmps. in the left (or volts) position and the meter function switch Then short the red and black micro test clips together. Now
12 Horologi.cal Times/November 1988 rotate the variable voltage knob slowly clockwise until the me WE OFFER FAST ter pointer reaches the right hand side of the meter (full scale). Now without changing any setting, place the micro test EFFICIENT SERVICE! clips on the two coil connection pads. If there is continuity in the coil there will be an indication on the meter. If the coil is open, the meter pointer will remain at the left end of the scale. If the coil is shorted, the pointer will travel all the way to the right side of the meter. To check for a coil that is grounded, you will leave all settings the same as above and place one micro test clip on the pillar plate and the other micro test clip on one of the coil connection pads. At this point the meter pointer should not move . If the meter pointer does move to the right, this would indicate a grounded coil. CALL TOLL FREE TODAY! This should cover all the tests that can be performed WATCH MATERIAL - FINDINGS on a quartz analog watch with a multimeter. The only precaution to be taken with this adapter is TOOLS - SUPPLIES to be sure that the switch is left in the center, or off, posi tion when not in use. This will insure that the battery will not be drained. JEWELMONT®~ • CORPORATION W_I Now!! Who said that watchmakers cannot be elec tronic technicians? And aren't you proud of yourself? $15.00 Minimum WATS Line Order (AREA CODE 612) 546-3800 MINNESOTA WATS 800-742-0508 NATIONWIDE WATS 800-328-0614 TELEX #753553 800 BOONE AVENUE NORTH MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA 55427
MEN'S WRISTWATCHES
Illinois Picadilly Flight II G.F. $200.00 I NEED THESE 3 WATCHES TO FILL ORDERS. World Time G.F. $300.00 Patek-Vacheron 14K $1000.00 Agassiz etc. urgently needed. Ro lex Stainless 1950 Chronograph ...... 1500.00 up Rolex Bubblebacks, SS ...... 400.00 up Any Split Second Chronograph SS ...... 400.00 up 14K or 18K CALL 14K ...... 1000.00 up Gruen Chronograph, G.F. or SS ...... 200.00 Chronograph With Day-Date Windows, SS .. . . 200.00 up Patek Philippe 18K Hour Glass Shaped ..... 5000.00 up 14K . . . 600.00 up Ro lex Oyster Perpetual Moonphase 18K ....10.000.00 Chronograph With Moonphase, SS ...... 300.00 up Stainless ...... 3000.00 14K ...... 800.00 up Patek Philippe 18K Moonphase ...... 12,000.00 up Rolex 18K 1950 Chronograph ...... 5000.00 up Lecoultre Moonphase Day Date G.F ...... 400.00 Patek Philippe 18K Chronograph ...... 9000.00 up 14K ...... 1000.00 Patek Philippe SS Chronograph ...... 3000.00 up Rectangular G. F ...... 1000.00 Vacheron & Con~tantin & LeCoultre Diamond Early 1 Button Chronograph Porcelain Dial Mystery Dial Watch ...... 800.00 Any Men's Enamelled Bezel or Case Movado Purse Watch (Sliding lids) With Calendar Any Old Diamond Dial Watches Moonphase ...... 400.00 up CHAR LES CLEVES 319 FAIRFIELD AVENUE 1-606-491-0354 Member: AWi, NAWCC BELLEVUE, KY 41073
November 1988/Horological Times 13 James Adams, CMW, CMBHI
THE QUARTZ WATCH ANALOG - DIGITAL
e electrical output of the quartz crystal can be electrical field on the stator plate and rotates as th is electrical hought of as binary in nature; that is, an electrical field alternates positively and negatively. The hole in the gnal that alternates positive and negative. These stator is precisely formed so that the rotor will turn in only electrical signals are directed into the integrated circuit at a one direction. Now this rotor is the transfer point between rate of 32768Hz (cycles per second). This high vibratory rate the electronic part of the watch and the mechanical. It consists insures the accuracy of the quartz watch, in many cases two of a very powerful magnet and pinion leaves to engage the or three minutes a year. mechanical part of the movement. Integrated circuits take many different electrical The digital watch is, of course, a different "breed forms, although they are all composed essentially of the same of cat." The only mechanical parts on this are its interface electronic components-gate switches and booster circuits. pushers. According to the Journal of the Horological Institute As the binary signal from the quartz crystal enters the l.C. of Japan, issue #124, the interface can be voice controlled. (integrated circuit), the first gate switch on line removes half In other words, the entire watch can be controlled by voice. of the binary signal. The gate switch is designed to pass the The l.C. used in digital watches also contains counter binary 1 signal and stop the binary 0 signal. The electrical circuits which count seconds, minutes, hours, days, and even signal now is 16384Hz as it approaches the second gate switch. years. The l.C. can split seconds, remember programmed-in Again the same thing happens, the binary signal is cut in half. days (birthdays, anniversaries, etc.), and act as the trigger of So the output signal, as it leaves the second gate switch, alarm units. These l.C.s are electrically connected to prepared is 8192Hz and so on. If the watch has a seconds hand, the final screens which have electrical paths and light-producing ele pulse output of the l.C. will come at one second intervals. A ments etched invisibly into their surfaces which are excited watch without a seconds hand may have an l.C. output every into glowing as electrical current flows from the l.C. to the 2 seconds or longer, even as long as 1 minute between l.C. screen. output signals. This allows movement designers to use smaller Because of the fact that the digital watch movement power cells and still maintain one, two, or three year active is entirely electronic in nature, it can be produced at a fraction cell life. Also built into the l.C. are oscillator frequency con of what a wheel and gear analog watch can be produced for. trol circuits, control logic circuits, and motor drive circuits. For this reason, and also because there just is not much These motor drive circuits, at the output terminals of the l.C., that can be done to make a digital watch stylishly thin and deliver a binary signal to the coil. This coil, as it is alternately good looking, the major watch producers don't show many induced with an electrical field, causes the stator plate to of these watches in their lines. The vast bulk are being pro become positive on one end and negative on the other end. duced in plastic or metal-plated cases and are really meant to As the electrical field in the coil breaks down and reverses be throwaway timepieces. itself, the electrical charge on the stator reverses itself. What Solar cells are fitted to both analog and digital was positive is now negative, what was negative is now posi timepieces. These devices convert light, either natural sunlight tive. This stator plate, coil, and rotor are really a simplified or artificial light, into electrical energy which is then stored D.C. motor. in what is called an accumulator. It looks exactly like a power The coil in quartz watches or stepping motor quartz cell in appearance. Be advised though, those $3 and $4 so watches is of enough interest in itself as to be the subject of called solar watches you see from time to time are phonies. our next article. Solar components are expensive and are reserved for time Located in a carefully designed hole in a stator plate pieces of $100 or more. Extreme care must be used when (but not touching) is a pivoted rotor with a permanent magnet dismantling these for service. attached. This permanent magnet reacts to the alternating Overall care must be exercised when servicing all
14 Horological Times/November 1988 quartz watches. An extreme amount of plastic material is used even to the extent of some train wheels. Be very careful in allowing your cleaning solvents to come in contact with this plastic. Test a small portion of plastic with your solvent and carefully note any melting or deforming. Heat will also cause havoc with plastic components. Be careful of the heat in spin driers. One or two bad experiences will do wonders for your cleaning techniques, especially if it costs you a new 0 movement replacement out of your pocket. SAVE sa5° t digital - of or pertaining to the class of devices in which the Now you can get output varies in discrete steps. Pulses or "on and off" operation. Using numbers expressed in digits and in a an accurate l interface - a point or device at which a transition between media or mode of operation is made. solar cell - a silicon photovoltaic cell that converts solar energy directly into electrical energy. REFERENCES: Dictionary of Electronics, Radio Shack WATCHMAKERS - JEWELERS How long would it take you to diagnose the following watches using your present test equipment? 0''.: OU•t• ....,, ('40' •t• Cllll< l!f'fi ''"' ••611! 1:•11111 relHI• • • ~ •0.-•~ ...... , ...... • • t:(111•t.111 ~r; • L t:oi"•"r't\. THE G-1 GOLD TESTER CAN •Determine the Karat Value of Gold. With lnnovative's• • Quartz •Watch Tester,• model• WT-100 •Separate Gold Plating materials, Silver you could diagnose them all - in seconds - & Platinum. without removing any watch components. •Calibrate quickly, conveniently & inexpensively. Regular s4 7 5 Now s3 8 9 "Everything For The Watchmaker" Quartz Watch Tester Model WT-100 TOLEDO JEWELERS Typical product features: 245 Twenty-Third St., P.O. Box 973 • Tests watches with or without batteries Toledo, Ohio 43696 • Tests batteries in or out of watches • Easy to use - no adjustments to m·ake Prices Good Thru November 30th,1988 • Tests components without removal • One year warranty • Made in the USA • Inexpensive - only $49.95 TOLL FREE ORDERING ... (plus $2.00 postage & handling) OHIO 800-472-0120 OTHERS 800-537-0260 INNOVATIVE ELECTRONICS 64-46 84th Street, Flushing, NY 11379 November 1988/Horological Times 15 (}:{]@@@~ ~@@@~ 11@@@~ John A. Nagle Gongs, Chimes and H* ll's Bells efore I start with this article I would like to mention drive out the plug with a pretty good force, so you should the Horological Times 10-Year Technical Index. The have something there to cushion the blow. Now, with the January 1986 issue contains an excellent article on plug removed it's just a matter of soldering the crack. Remem Bbrazing, and the May 1984, January 1980, and May 1985 con- ber, clean surface and apply flux. I then close the crack using tain information on fluxes. Very little information in our ar a cheap C-clamp. Apply your silver solder and a lot of heat. ticles break new ground; it's always been around, but not in Big jobs require a lot of heat. After the tube cools, clean with print. You would do yourself a great service by obtaining miss a soapy ammonia water solution. Use emery boards, etc. to ing issues of the HT and complete your library. A good refer clean and polish the soldered area. Replace the plug to its ence library not only supplements your skills but also impress proper position and your chime tube should ring as new. es your customers if you have it prominently displayed. Another method of repairing cracks is to drill a hole Last time around we covered brazing techniques and at the base of the crack, then saw or file open the crack from repaired a clock hand. Hopefully, without seeming too re the edge to the hole. When the tube is struck the edges have dundent to our more experienced members, we will expand clearance and you now get a clear tone. I prefer the solder our horizons. Once you have developed your brazing skills a repair because it gives you a chance to make a repair that can lot of once tough or seemingly hopeless jobs become fairly really restore rather than just correct. I mention it because simple. Like anything else, develop a procedure, and practice. the new guys might come across a drill job and now they There is nothing more disappointing than after ad know why it was done. miring a beautiful tubular chime clock it chimes the quarter Regular clock bells, round gongs, and even gong and the melody is interrupted by a sound like a shoe in an old rods can be repaired by brazing. When you solder and have beat-up bucket. This is usually an indication of a crack in the good joints, it doesn't take much effort with a file and emery chime tube. These are also called bells, but to keep from be boards to just about eliminate any evidence of the repair. coming confused I will call them tubes. In the case of modern clocks a broken chime rod In some cases the cracks are caused by flaws in the seldom poses much of a problem. Just order a new one from metal, improper manufacturing processes, or careless handling. the parts house and screw it into the block. A great many Most times, though, it is caused by stress. When toning the times the rod doesn't even need any tone adjustment! What tubes a metal plug is driven into the end of the tube. Since about old clocks? Sometimes you can purchase chime rods this is a tight fit, there is a constant stressing which can split the that have a matching threaded end and the appearance match end of the tube. When the tube is struck, the edges of the es. Usually you will not be so lucky. With some practice you fracture vibrate against each other, caysing a distorted sound. can make your own. Usually 1/8" drill rod or bronze rod Since we know how to solder, it shouldn't be too will work as base stock. Measure rods in the clock to deter much of a job to repair this crack. If the tube is plugged you mine the diameter of stock that you will need. Cut off a sec have to measure the depth of its position in the tube. Now tion approximately the length of the original. Chuck it up in we want to drive out the plug. I have a piece of round stock your lathe and taper one end. You then insert it into the 5" long and 7/8" diameter that I insert at the open end of chime block. Depending on the type of block, you will either the tube and let it slide down the length of the tube. This will 1) insert the rod into the block and rivet into place, or 2) drill 16 Horological Times/November 1988 a new hole in the threaded piece and rivet new rod into it. Screw the threaded unit into the block. When you are finished, the rod should be centered in the hole but should not touch the walls of the hole. It pays to save old pieces of rod and the mounting screws as you never know when you will get a job like this. These old pieces can save a lot of work. Now that the rod is secure in the block we can get to the easy part. You probably will have an out-of-tune rod, so now we will bring it into harmony with the others. If it sounds lower than it should you will have to decrease the over· all length. If it sounds too high, you can thin the neck of the rod. This is definitely trial and error work. Use a file and slowly remove metal. You can't rush it as it is easy to go past the desired sound. One last thing about the chime block. It must be securely attached to achieve optimum tone and volume. The part of the case that it is attached to acts like a sounding board as in a piano. If you ever run into a homemade clock where the chime block is just attached to a strip, chances are good that it will be a pretty quiet clock. If you wedge a piece of dowel or pegwood between this strip and caseback, it will really increase the volume. The dowel channels the sound, and it's amazing what an improvement it is. With step style tension Well, with the gongs repaired and properly mounted, rings ... one each yellow and white in each envelope. we will now want hammers in good condition, striking them and producing a good sound. The modern clocks are using the Designed as replacement crystals for SEIKO watches. plastic head hammers and are pretty cheap, so it doesn't pay You do not have to buy high priced SEIKO crystals. You can buy the SEIKO style at lower cost from G-S. The to do much to them. Occasionally they dry and fall out of sharp angle gives a modern look to any watch imported the brass holder so you can epoxy them back into the socket. from Japan, the Far East, or Switzerland, such as If the heads are worn it is easiest to attach new hammers. The Citizen, Orient and others. Your jobber has these new older clocks used leather heads or pads. If the pad is worn it G-S ANGLE-TITE CRYSTALS in stock. Buy an assort is easiest to remove it and replace it with a small drill in the ment and have the right size on hand when needed. flex-shaft; just drill out the old leather. Glue in a new pad. Fit G-S crystals in your store for more profit. These are easy to make. Just cut a length of sewing machine belting, taper end, and press it in. If the pad is too soft and SIZES: 15.0 mm to 35.0 mm s1 aso you aren't getting the sound you want, just press the tip of in 1/10 mm graduations dozen a hot soldering iron against the pad. This will harden it and give you a louder sound. To SIMPLIFY CRYSTAL FITTING for SEIKO WATCHES G-S makes exact sizes for specifc Seiko, Citizen and Orient watches. If you do not have the exact G-S Seiko crystal, While we are on the subject of pads, the pads on many of these watch brands can also be fitted with G-S ring tubular chime clocks are often overlooked. There is no mys crystals such as ET, ST, MT, DT, AT. Write for Seiko case tery here, either. It just take a little time. The pads are general number chart, with corresponding G-S crystal number. ly attached in one of two ways. One way is to wrap a piece of leather around the hammer head, run a piece of wire around that, and secure it. The other type is a screw-in assembly, a Insist on G-S, refuse substitutes! bullet head shape. Unscrew the back piece and remove the old leather, insert a new leather circle, insert the back piece, and ~-~-~------~------1 Germanow-Simon Corporation 1-800-448-3400 screw it in. Dept. 420, P.O. Box 1091 • Rochester, NY 14603 Ext. 466 Finally, you want the hammer to be close to the gong but it shouldn't bounce or rest. If it is attached to a steel or Please send me: brass wire, bend the wire to get the desired result. On better D Set AT-200-201 sizes D Information on trade-in of old (16-3/4 doz.) 15.0 mm to 35.0 mm crystal sets-small monthly clocks you will have set screws that apply tension to the ham Complete set in cabinet-$375 payments-no interest or mers either directly to the hammer or to a tensioning spring. D SetAT-175-100 Ladies' sizes carrying charges. Don't slight this adjustment. The amount of lift of a hammer (8-1/3 doz.) 15.0 mm to 24.9 mm D Supplement of watch names in G-S drawer-$161 and corresponding G-S can often be critical and could cause striking hang-ups or clock D Set AT-150-101 Men's sizes Cylinder Fancy, Flat Fancy stopping. You never want too much lift. (8-5/12 doz.) 25.0 mm to 35.0 mm and ''Pl.' water proof crystals. Anyone out there have any tips? Send them in, in G-S drawer-$164 D I do have# 200 Catalog. Send latest supplement sheets. share you thoughts. It's fun and it makes AWi stronger and 0 Set AT-125-(Starter Set) 60 sizes (5 doz.) 26.5 mm to D I do not have # 200 Catalog better able to serve you. Remember the three Cs: don't 32.5 mm in G-S drawer-$100 please send. CRITICIZE, CONDEMN, or COMPLAIN. It makes a better world. What do you get when you drop a piano down a Address ______Phone ______mine shaft? A flat minor. We'll end on that note. See you next Coty ______State ______Zip __ time around. Wholesaler'sName ______L------November 1988/Horological Times 17 Technically © 1988 WATCHES Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author) 1988 Antique Watch Restoration © Part XXXV THE DESIGN OF GEAR TEETH FOR WATCH MAIN TRAIN WHEELS design of the curved addenda of main train wheel The height and shape of the epicycloid curve are eth of watches is based on the curve of an epicy different for each generating circle diameter. For high ratio cloid. Figure 1 shows the epicycloid curve and how gears, the height of the epicycloid curve is lower than for it is formed. This curve is formed by rolling a circle called gears which have a low ratio. For example, if we are designing a generating circle on the outside of the pitch circle of the a pair of gears with a 10: 1 ratio and the wheel has a pitch wheel without slipping. The diameter of the generating circle diameter of 10.00 mm, then the pinion would have a pitch should be equal to the pitch radius of the pinion that is to diameter of 1.00 mm. Since the generating circle is one-half be used with the wheel. The pitch diameter circle of the pinion of the pitch diameter of the pinion, this would give a gen is shown in view X. As the generating circle is rolled without erating circle of .50 mm. Therefore, the height of the epicy slipping on the pitch circumference of the wheel, a point cloid generated by this circle would only be .50 mm at its on the generating circle traces the epicycloid. highest point. In Figure 1, View a, al shows the pitch circle line Now, if we are designing a pair of gears which has a of the wheel on which the generating circle is rolled. View 2: 1 ratio, and the largest gear has a 10.00 mm pitch diameter, "g" shows the generating circle and A, B, C shows the epicy then the smaller gear would have a pitch diameter of 5.00 mm. cloid curve produced by a point on the generating circle as it is rolled on the pitch circle of the wheel. The generating circle is divided into as many equal parts as the number of leaves the pinion must have. In this particular case, there will be 12 Figure 1 ---x>', leaves. A pair of dividers is used to transfer these divisions to \ \ the pitch diameter circle of the wheel as shown. The point 12 \ \ on the generating circle is at the "O" starting point on the \ I pitch circle of the wheel. Now, as we roll the generating circle I I I clockwise on the pitch circle, we start to generate the epicy I I cloid. When point 1 on the generating circle reaches radial line I 1 of the wheel, then point 12 on the generating circle will have I reached the circular arc 1. When point 2 on the generating circle reaches radial line 2, then point 12 on the generating circle will have reached circular arc 2, etc. When the gen erating circle has been rolled until it is centered with the center line at B then point 12 on the generating circle will be at the top of the circle which is the highest point of the epicycloid curve. If we continue to roll the generating circle clockwise until the point 12 returns to the pitch circle of the wheel then we will have completed t he epicycloid curve. EPICYCLOID The first part of the beginning of this curve forms one side of the curved addendum of the wheel tooth and, as the gen erating circle is rolled in the opposite direction, the curve for the opposite side of the tooth addendum is formed. This is shown by a dotted line in Views b and b 1, Figure 1. 18 Horological Times/November 1988 In this case, the generating circle would have a diameter of one-half of the pitch diameter or 2.50 mm as compared to the first example of .50 mm. This would produce an epicycloid curve that is 2.50 mm high at its highest point. The dedendum of wheel teeth are made as follows. The flanks of wheel teeth are on radial lines running from the center of the wheel. The tooth width is made equal to the space between two teeth. A rounded bottom to the spaces makes the teeth stronger than a square bottom. MAIN TRAIN PINIONS Pinion leaves for the main train of watches are de signed differently than the wheel teeth. The flanks (sides) of pinion leaves are shaped by a straight line hypocycloid. This is shown in Figure 1. This hypocycloid is fom1ed wilh a generating circle which has a diameter that is equal to the pitch radius of the pinion. The generating circle is divided into as many equal spaces as the number of leaves that the pinion is to have. Now, the pitch circle of the pinion is marked off with the same spaces. Next, the hypocycloid is generated by placing the generating circle inside the pitch circle of the STRAIGHT LINE pinion at the starting position with the mark 12 of the gen HYPOCYCLOID erating circle at the zero or start point. Now as the generating circle is rolled clockwise inside the pitch circle of the pinion without slipping, the straight line hypocycloid is formed. As the generating circle is turned, point 1 on the generating will be at point 2 on the horizontal line, etc. If we continue circle will come to point 1 on the pitch diameter circle and to roll the generating circle, the figure 12 will trace a straight point 12 will come to point 1 on the horizontal center line line to the center of the pinion and to the opposite side of of the pinion pitch circle. i\s we continue to roll the gen the pinion, and the 12 will finally wind up at the finish posi erating circle clockwise, point 2 on the generating circle tion on the pitch circle of the pinion tracing a straight line will come to point 2 on the pinion pitch circle and point 12 completely across the center of the pinion. It is this straight ARE YOU OLD ENOUGH TO REMEMBER WHEN ... BACK ORDERS FOR WATCH PARTS WERE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN? It's really surprising to hear that people have problems getting watch parts. It is true that many distributors have cut back on their stock of watch material, while emphasizing the more lucrative jewelry and diamond lines. Twin City Supply has remained in the ·watch parts field, expanding to accomodate the new quartz technology. Through the years, we have also purchased the stock of other material houses, and continue to inventory the older watch parts as well as the so called "hard to find" Japanese watch material. The next time you're having problems, give us a try. Some of our new customers are surprised to find that our orders are shipped nearly 100% complete. We are not surprised. We stock what we sell. TWIN CITY SUPPLY u~ PHONE AREA CODE 612/545-2725 TOLL FREE MERCHANDISE ORDERING NATIONWIDE 800/328-6009 MINNESOTA 800/862-8139 l~I 6150 Wayzata.Blvd., Minneapolis MN 55416 TWINCO November 1988/Horologi.cal Times 19 line generated by the generating circle and others like it that The p1mon leaves will be stronger and less likely to forms the flanks for all of the pinion leaves. break in use if the bottoms of the spaces are rounded as is The shape and height of the addenda for pinion leaves done for Profile C, Figure 2. The square bottom used for the is gotten by using different radii for each pinion based on how pinion leaf shown at A, Figure 2 has less strength than one many leaves the pinion has. The pinion leaf profile A in Figure which has a rounded bottom. 2 has a semicircular rounding which can be used on pinions which have 10 or more leaves. The radius of this rounding GEARS WITH INTERNAL TEETH is equal to one-half the width of the leaf at the pinion pitch Figure 3 shows the construction of a curved line circle line. The reason that this shape can be used on pinions hypocycloid. This type of hypocycloid is used as a basis for which have 10 or more leaves is that with 10 leaves or more, forming teeth for internal gears such as rack levers for re the start of the drive of a wheel tooth occurs when the drive peaters which have internal teeth and for internal gears used side of the tooth reaches the center line. This means that the in planetary mechanisms. The curved line hypocycloid is tip of the pinion leaf above the pitch circle is not needed; formed with a generating circle that has a diameter which therefore, a rounded end is entirely satisfactory. A pinion is equal to the pitch radius of the pinion that is to work with with semicircular rounded leaves would not be satisfactory the internal gear. The generating circle is divided into as for pinions with low numbers of leaves, especially pinions with many spaces as the pinion is to have leaves. The line a, al 6 or 7 leaves. The reason for this is that when pinions have is the pitch circle for the internal gear. This line is also divided less than 10 leaves, the drive starts before the line of centers. with the same division as the pinion. The generating circle is Therefore, the wheel teeth would butt on the ends of the rolled on the inside of the line to form the hypocycloid curve pinion leaves as the teeth first contact the pinion leaves, A, B, C, Figure 3. The procedure is the same as that used to especially on pinions with 6 or 7 leaves. generate an epicycloid curve except the generating circle Profile D, Figure 2 should be used on 6 leaf pinions. is rolled on the inside of the pitch circle for a curved line This profile has a radius equal to the width of the leaf at the hypocycloid instead of on the outside. pitch circle line. This shape of profile is high enough with an adequate curve to allow a smooth transmission of power as the wheel teeth start to drive the pinion leaves, although RACK TEETH the drive starts about 17 degrees before the center line. Profile Figure 4 shows the cycloid and how it is generated. C would be adequate for pinions of 7 leaves. The radius The cycloid curve is used as the basis for the curve for rack that forms this profile equals 5/6 of the width of the pinion teeth. The cycloid curve is formed by rolling a generating leaf at the pitch circle. On this pinion, the drive starts about circle on a straight line or surface without slipping. The 12 degrees before the center line. diameter of the generating circle is equal to the pitch radius Profile B would be adequate for pinions of 8 or 9 of the pinion that is to work with the rack. The generating leaves. The radius to form this profile equals 2/3 of the width circle is divided into as many equal spaces as the number of of the leaf at the pitch circle. The drive on an 8 leaf pinion leaves in the pinion and the base line a, al is also divided with starts about 7 degrees before the center line. the same divisions and numbered. As the generating circle is The thickness of pinion leaves and the shape of the rolled on the base line, a point on the generating circle will bottom of the space are two important factors. If the pinion scribe a curved line which will be a cycloid curve. leaves are too thin, they will be weak at their base and are When the generating circle is turned in one direction, liable to break in use. On pinions from 6 to 10 leaves, the a curve is formed for one side of the tooth addendum, and pitch is divided into three parts. One part is for the thickness when the generating circle is turned in the opposite direction, of the leaf and two parts for space. On pinions with 11 or 12 a curve for the opposite side of the tooth's addendum will leaves, the pitch is divided into five parts. Two parts are for be formed. The numbered points below the base of the cycloid the thickness of the leaf and three parts are for space. On are the different radius points for drawing the cycloid curve. pinions with 14 leaves, the pitch is divided into seven parts. Since the pinion used in this example has 12 leaves, its pitch The thickness of the leaf equals three parts and four parts is divided into five spaces. Two spaces are used for the width are allowed for space. of a leaf and three spaces are used for the space as shown. CURVED LI NE HYPOCYCLOI D CYCLOID 20 Horological Times/November 1988 9 10 YOU DON'T NEED I Figure 5 I 6 I THIS TOOL! ' I \ 5 ' , \ I (if you have 3 hands) 4' ' \ \ I 3 \, ', \ \ I 2 ' .J ', ', ' \ I ----:~'-'.;.:'""'.:::...... ' ' \ 0 1 (I 2' ' ' ,_ ,,' ' \I I I I 3 "',' \ \ I I I I 14 \\\\ I I I ./ \ \ \ I I I I 5 \ 11 I// \ \I I I I 1 / 6~\\ I I I / / " /' "' ~ I 1 1 /1 " / JI! I I I / ,,. " _, ,,. I ) 1 1 r111/,,/,,."' ,...... _s 11 11 111/ ,,. ,...... --- I 11{/I/;/ .,,." ,.. -- I/fl/ //_,,... __ ,.. ----- I ~%~ ~=-: ~==- -- _JO INVOLUTE ;mm.,... ···----,"=-~- INVOLUTE GEARS ~MW! • .--. Figure 5 shows the involute curve and how it is ~'-'-c::::=:==::::::r--' formed. The involute curve is traced by the end of a cord as the cord is unwound from a cylinder. The diameter of the HOWEVER; when you need an extra hand, cylinder is equal to the diameter of the base circle of the gear. To form the involute, the base circle of the gear is laid out This could be just the tool required. with divisions corresponding to the pitch of the teeth of the A hand vise made specifically for the gear as shown; then as the cord is unwound from the cylinder assembly and disassembly of the new while being held taut, the end of the string will trace the in style link bands which use screws. volute curve. When the string is unwound to point 1 on the This vise is fitted with an adjustable circle, the end of the cord will be at 1 on the involute curve. table to accept different band thick When the cord is unwound to point 2 on the circle, the end of nesses. Manufactured by BERGEON, one the cord will have reached point 2 on the curve, etc. When the of the finest names in the precision cord has been unwound from the cylinder to point 10, the end tool industry. of the cord will be at point 10 on the curve and the involute curve will be completed. The first part of this curve forms one Vise only with one blade ...... $21.95 side of the addendum for a tooth. If the cord is wound around the cylinder in the opposite direction and then unwound in Vise complete with 4 blades, screwdriver the same manner, an involute curve will be traced to form and wooden stand ...... $42.95 the opposite side of the addendum of the tooth. The teeth Order by No. 6607 (Please turn to page 23) DISTRIBUTED BY: SINCE 1877 BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL ray gaber co. 220 West King Street, Lancaster, PA 17603 800 PENN AVE.e PITTSBURGH, PA 15222 e 412/281-4323 Jewelry Repairing and Stonesetting Engraving Watchmaking and Repairing Clockmaking and Repairing CALL TOLL FREE Advanced Stonesetting Techniques Send for free brochure. An Equal Opportunity Facility PA 800-792-2820 NATIONAL 800-245-5090 November 1988/Horological Times 21 CLOCKS hi~ifIB & Out! John Plewes, CMC Pendulum Lengths for Spare Movements EDITOR'S NOTE: For our non-math readers this is an excel to follow the development of the formula. However, you do lent method of calculating the length of a pendulum by mere not have to understand it completely. Pay particular attention ly counting the teeth on an escape wheel, then counting the to the formula developed in step (4 }, then follow the step-by number of revolutions that wheel makes, and then doing a step mathematical computations in the example that follows few simple math calculations. Read the article through and try the article. lot of clock addicts have a few spare movements Taking backlash into account, 'finger walk' the two gears to around the workshop, and more often than not the re allow the hand to move forward 15 minutes, counting the quisite pendulum lengths are unknown and would be escape gear revolutions meanwhile. Multiplying this number by 4time consuming to determine. Counting half obscured gear 4 gives a reasonably accurate value of R. teeth and interpreting unclear beats/min. tables has little Substitute these two figures for N and R in equa appeal and mistakes are frequently made. It is the sort of tion ( 4) and the theoretical pendulum length is yours. In problem which recurs, but not often enough for you to re practice, L is measured from the top of the suspension spring call how you did it the last time. Having had enough of such to a point slightly above the center of the bob. It is wise to aggravation I decided that a simple movement-related formula leave the pendulum shaft a little on the long side initially, could be excavated for quick use on the bench. (Note that as it is easier to shorten it than to lengthen it. the so-called 'wheels' in a clock have teeth on them and that Equation ( 4) also allows the derivation of a very use makes them gears as far as I am concerned.) ful formula relating two pendulum lengths L1 and L2 to two Let us give the escape gear N teeth and say it re escape gears N 1 and Nx volves R times an hour. So N x R teeth pass any given point in one hour (3600 seconds), and one tooth passes in 3600 secs. NR The time t for one beat (one L - R pendulum swing) is half This enables a quick assessment of how a change of escape a tooth space, so: gear affects pendulum length so that a given movement may be 1800 modified to suit an available case. t= NR secs...... (1) In terms of Land G, t = 1T• TL ...... (2) EXAMPLE: Using the Urges 21 /42 8-day clock which is used .Vr2G in the AWi correspondence course in clock repair as our exam ple, follow the step-by-step procedure. 11 Where L = pendulum length in inches The formula from step (4): L= { ~~)2 G = acceleration due to gravity, say 32.16 ft /sec/sec 1T ~ 3.14 Th is means the length of the pendulum ( L) equals 11260 divided by N times R; then multiply the answer by itself to square it. Equating (1) and (2) we have: N the number of teeth on the escape wheel - on the Urges 21 /42 it= 30 teeth 1 = l~~o = nVifc ...... (3) R the number of times the escape wheel turns: on the Urges 21 /42 the escape wheel turns 30 times in 15 minutes; thus it turns 4 x 30, or 120 turns in one minute. Boiled down, this means that: 2 Substituting known values into the formula : L = (11260 \ 30 x 120/ L = (1~:0)2 ...... (4) Calculations: 30 x 120 = 3600. 11260 divided by 3600 = 3.13. Squaring 3.13: 3.13 x 3.13 = 9.80; thus the length of the pen Set the movement on your bench, put a pencil mark dulum L = 9.80. between two escape gear teeth, and count N. To find R, L = 9.80 inches* remove the verge and firmly attach a longish minute hand. * 9.80 inches is the total length of the pendulum system mea Apply your forefingers to the time train gears, say numbers sured from the top of the suspension spring to a point slightly 4 and 5, and bring the hand up to a quarter hour mark, say the above the center of the bob. 45 min. mark, and note the position of the pencil mark. 22 Horological Times/November 1988 TECHNICALLY WATCHES • (Continued from page 21) SAVE 33% off of retail price! LAST CHANCE SALE on discontinued watch that are formed with this curve are called involute teeth. cleaning machines. The machines are new This form of tooth is used for winding and setting gears in and parts are available, but there has been watches. This type of gearing has strength and is better suited some shelf life, and there is no service for low velocity gearing where much strength is needed. warranty. Limited quantities. Epicycloidal wheels and hypocycloidal pinions are better suited for the main train of watches than involute gearing. In involute gearing, it is difficult to make small pinions with LAST low numbers-that is, pinions which have less than 12 leaves. Involute pinions of low numbers must have the flanks of the leaves undercut at the base of the leaves to allow for clearance CHANCE! for the tip of the involute teeth of the wheel. This weakens the pinion leaves which makes them easier to break. L & R CONSOLE Involute teeth are now being modified so they can be used in trains of small mechanisms successfully. Involute gearing has advantages over other types of gearing because of its design: 1. Involute gearing has strength. 2. It can drive or be driven equally as well. 3. It will work with other involute gears with the same pitch and pressure angle regardless of the number of teeth. L & R TEMPO 400 4. The center distance can be varied a small amount and the gears will still operate well together. 5. It is well suited for heavy-duty machinery. 6. It is easy to manufacture. 7. Fewer cutters are needed. L & R TEMPO 400 The Tempo 400 systematically cleans, rinses, lubricates, and dries watch movements ultrasonically, mechanically, and automatically with a built-in auxiliary dryer to provide WANTED additional drying time · if needed . Capable of ultrasonic cleaning of up to 16 watch movements intact without disassembly. Com puter·like operation with built-in memory. Easily programmed to simplify your cleaning •4 i ., '• \ A operations. Regular retail price $2415.00 ·LAST CHANCE .· .. SA LE $1618.00 - SAVE 33%! L & R TEMPO 400 ...... : ..... $1618.00 L & R CONSOLE Combines the automatic reversing varimatic motor, Ultra· sonic Transducer, and Ultrasonic Generator. Permits full time ultrasonic action in all 3 jars. Finger touch lever HIGHEST PRICES PAID locks and releases instantly. Ideally suited for use with L & R Duo-Lube or L & R Solo-Lube. Electric timer WE BUY-SELL-REPAIR included. Regular retail price $1120.00 - LAST CHANCE ANTIQUE WATCHES- ROLEX ·CARTIER - PIAGET SALE $750.00 - SAVE 33%! AUDEMARS- PATEK PHILIPPE· VACHE RON L & R Console ...... $750.00 COMPLICATED WATCHES· CHRONOGRAPHS Free Estimates Alfredo Castro Complete NAWCC #84972 Restorations AWi #15673 S. (f?ai'~);~lnc. Worldwide Distributors to Horologists TIJ/tfl WATCH CO. '~ 1 1/ e first series of 18 Random Clock Talks video tapes have TAPE 2: Approximately 2 hours een edited and duplicated and are now ready for loan to SUBJECT MATTER: AWi members from the AWi Audio Visual Library. The tapes Demonstration and discussion on the following subjects: sawing vary in viewing time from 1.25 to 2.00 hours and are available in the making tools for special jobs VHS viewing format. A service charge of $5 each is to accompany measuring instruments and methods for using them requests to borrow a tape; only one tape is loaned at a time. The ser· making a clock bushing vice charge covers AWi's production and shipping costs. Tapes should fitting a clock bushing into the clock plate turning techniques using a Boley watchmakers lathe be returned to AWi within 7 days after receipt, insured for $30. We are currently editing and duplicating a second group of Random Clock TAPE 3: Approximately 2 hours Talks tapes that should be available for loan soon after the first of 1989. SUBJECT MATTER: Random Clock Talks tapes are produced by J.M. Huckabee in Discussion and demonstration on the following subjects: his Huckabee Clock Shop located on the J-Bee Ranch just north of lathe operation using the Boley watchmakers lathe: using a 3-jawed chuck, tool slide rest and gauges Austin, Texas. using a 6-jawed chuck (bezel chuck) and wheel chuck J.M. Huckabee retired from IBM in 1986 with more than 38 using a wire chuck and open runner years of service. His career began in the Time Equipment Division, lathe operations using the C&E Marshall watchmakers lathe : in the Field Service Organization in Jackson, Mississippi. Nearly ten using 3-jawed chuck and tool slide years' tenure in the Electric Typewriter Division was spent in Lexing making a screw ton, Kentucky. These years were spent in development of technical lit TAPE 4: Approximately 1.50 hours erature, and working in Development Engineering. Moving to the Austin SUBJECT MATTER: IBM plant in 1968, Huckabee worked in various Development Engineer An analysis and work with the Urgos 21 /42 8-day trapezoid time only ing assignments, retiring as an Advisory Scientist. Huckabee was an clock: disassembly and inspection of the movement award winner in the British Horological Institute annual technical ex assembly and adjustment aminations of 1968, and was made a Fellow in 1969. In 1971, he be study of the gear train and its ratios came an AWi Certified Master Clockmaker. Retirement is being spent study of the pendulum length and rate helping others elevate their skills in clockmaking. also : demagnetizing parts and tools Please order tapes by number. Here are the numbers and TAPE 5: Approximately 2 hours subject matter of each tape. SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration and discussion about: drilling the arbor using Huck's "turning in a box" method making a pivot fitting the pivot to the arbor and finishing it RANDOM CLOCK TALKS testing the fit of the new pivot assembling the clock movement and testing the action of the TAPE 1: Approximately 2 hours new pivot SUBJECT MATTER: also: the IME Cu~om Lathe A brief view and discussion of the following clocks: a discussion of the lathe and its attachments an early Westclox clock Seth Thomas #10 with dual mainsprings TAPE 6: Approximately 1.75 hours Seth Thomas #10 built for chart drive SUBJECT MATTER: one-day German clock-made about the turn of the century A demonstration of wheel cutting an eight-day small clock with jewels in the pivot bearings using clear plastic and a Mosley watchmakers lathe with the Herschede 1920-1930 vintage with a platform escapement attachment to actually convert the lathe into a wheel cutting an eight-day German clock with stopworks on mainspring engine, Huckabee cuts four gears such as those required A brief view and discussion of the following tools used in the Huckabee in the AWi certification examination. shop: English Turns and the tools used with them TAPE 7: Approximately 1.75 hours files, rotary files, and stones SUBJECT MATTER: staking sets and punches The Birge & Mallory Striker Clock anvils and bench blocks a complete study and analysis of the Birge & Mallory Striker index plates clock with its strap plates and roller pinions, circa 1841. lathes- the Boley used in the Huckabee shop special tools used with lathes used by the clockmaker TAPE 8: Approximately 2 hours drills, dies, and taps SUBJECT MATTER: a brief look at the regulator clock featured in the Huckabee making a great wheel book making a click rivet and click spring discussion about the 1928 International Time Recorder Co. mounting the great wheel on its arbor regulator clock a discussion about gear cutters using a Derbyshire milling machine, Huckabee cuts a replace a discussion about commercial-made clock wheels and pin ment great wheel for a Seth Thomas 103A clock. He then ions makes a rivet for the click, and a click spring. Huckabee the depthing tool mounts the click and click spring onto the newly cut great using a mainspring winder with an open spring wheel and then mounts the wheel onto its arbor. 24 Horological Times/November 1988 AWi AUDIO VISUAL LIBRARY TAPE 9: Approximately 1.75 hours 3700 Harrison Avenue SUBJECT MATTER: Cincinnati, OH 45211 The entire tape deals with the subject of making and fitting a replace ment pinion for a clock wheel. Enclosed find the service fee of $5 to cover the cost of bor rowing the Huckabee Random Clock Talks tape number __. TAPE 10: Approximately 1.50 hours I understand that I am to return the tape 7 days after receipt, SUBJECT MATTER : insured for $30. Huckabee discusses tools: tweezers Name-----,------pliers ( please print) sharpening tool bits also : correcting problems caused by an elongated pivot hole bushing with a solid bushing City ______State _____ Zip ______use of a "preacher" to relocate center distance drilling the bushing, mounting, and testing the wheel in the L------clock TAPE 11: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 15: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee discusses the IBM #37 Master Clock Movement and IBM Huckabee presents an in-depth discussion on the design of cutting tool 90 Series Clock Movement bits, both hand-held and those held in the tool post rest. Using wooden models and the actual tools, Huckabee discusses the philosophy of TAPE 12: Approximately 2 hours these tools and the type of cutting and resulting chips each tool shape SUBJECT MATTER: will produce. Huckabee discusses: Using a custom-made attachment to make wheels and index plates on steel-its composition and characteristics the Unimat lathe. The custom-made attachments can be made from how to tell which steel can be hardened by observing its drawing available from AWi upon request. The cost to cover printing sparks and postage is $2. The parts involved in the custom attachment include : hardening steel mainframe case hardening arbor indexing block indexing pin TAPE 16: Approximately 1.50 hours Huckabee demonstrates how to assemble the custom attachments and SUBJECT MATTER : mount a blank for making an indexing plate. Huckabee presents an in -depth discussion about hairsprings. He also making an index plate demonstrates how to vibrate a clock hairspring. sawing out wheel blanks in preparation for making a wheel TAPE 17: Approximately 1.75 hours TAPE 13: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER : SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee goes through the process of making a knurled nut, one like Cutting clock wheels those used as hand nuts in Early American kitchen clocks. He dem a demonstration of cutting the wheels used in the AWi onstrates a simple way to knurl the nut. CMC examination also: a discussion of the suspension spring and pendulums TAPE 14: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Using an inexpensive quartz analog clock movement, Huckabee dis TAPE 18: Approximately 1.75 hours assembles the movement and provides an in-depth explanation of each SUBJECT MATTER : component and their function in the operation of the timepiece. As Huckabee demonstrates the process of inserting a tooth into a clock Huckabee says, no one would spend their time repairing this movement wheel to replace a broken or damaged tooth. by disassembling it-it's too inexpensive for that. The purpose of this tape is to provide watch- and clockmakers with an understanding of how a quartz timepiece operates. This tape would be excellent for someone who is beginning to learn how to repair quartz analog watches. HAVING ... We Offer TECHNICAL Success PROBLEMS? By Degrees! AWi HOTLINE (513) 661-4636 November 1988/Horologi.cal Times 25 FORUM The FORUM is a column devoted to the discussion and debate of horological piffle, practices, and problems. Comments can be controversial, but should always re main within the bounds of good taste. Responses should be sent to: AWi FORUM, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Albert Dodson Ralph Geiger CMC CMW, CMC, CEWS, CMDHI ADVICE ON UNCLAIMED REPAIRS few nice words before and after these watch repair technicians are not the only comments to make the letter less harsh. tradesmen facing this dilemma. The n my clock repair shop I have a According to our lawyer, th is is bottom line, in my opinion, is that we sign on the wall for all to see a perfectly legal course of action. The don't want our customer's property. We which states: "Clocks left over return receipt will have the customer's just want to be paid for the work they 90 days will be sold." Customers are signature on it proving the letter was hired us to do. Factory workers, office advised of this policy prior to leaving received. I suggest that you check with workers, store salesmen-everybody-gets the clock for repair. After I have com your lawyer as laws may be different in paid for the work they do. The law says pleted the repairs I call the customer and other areas. you have to pay them. make a notation on the repair tag. After We have had good success with I think it is high time that Con 90 days have elapsed the customer is this system and, generally, the customers gress was badgered into doing something again informed of the policy which is understand why we have to take this about our problem. Wouldn't it be great printed on the sign. I sell unclaimed route. Beth Hostetter if AWi took the lead in this project to clocks after one year. After five years in get us some relief? If we had a law that business I have only sold four clocks. CA UT/ON: Selling unclaimed repairs is said an approval of a quoted price prior Robert Milton risky business. DO NOT under any to doing the work requested was a legal circumstances, regardless of what stated and binding contract, I think the problem We have a very effective system policies your business may have, DO of getting paid for our work would be for getting repairs claimed and paid for. NOT sell a customer's clock or watch eliminated. Some may have to be taken After a clock is repaired, checked out without consulting your attorney and/or to small claims court, but maybe things and ready to go, we call the customer and the appropriate office of your state overall would get better. inform them that their clock is ready to government. -R.G. I would like to hear from other be picked up. We.then allow the customer members in regard to this. two weeks to pick up their clock. If the I am not sure, but I think all Larry Morton clock is not claimed within two weeks we the states have their own Iittle set of Jaws send a postcard stating: "Due to limited spelling out how we are to go about storage space, we ask that you pick up taking possession of other people's prop your clock." If the clock is not picked erty that is unclaimed. Some states may GOT AN OPINION? up after another two weeks we send a call for sending registered letters, which certified letter with return receipt with in my opinion is probably just throwing GOT THE FACTS? the message: "We cannot hold your good money after bad. Afterwards, what clock indefinitely. We must have the have you got? Probably nothing that you WRITE US WITH YOUR THOUGHTS! clock picked up with in the next 30 days can get your repair charges out of. You or we will take possession of it and sell might strip it for parts, but you will never it for the cost of the repairs." We add a realize a profit that way either. We 26 Horological Times/November 1988 ~ILITARY TI~E Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI Civil Date Indicator Aeronautical [ CDIA] Clock Waltham 37 size, 8-day, 24-hr., 15 jewels Figure 1. Civil Date some unknown reason, many people to whom I Indicator Aeronau ve spoken are of the opinion that the CDIA clock tical (COIA) clock, as identical to the elapsed time aircraft clock devel Waltham, 37 size, oped jointly by Elgin and Hamilton, even to the extent that the 8-day, 24-hour, 15 jewel. parts were interchangeable. These two clocks are distinctly different; the only similarities being the size, shape of case, 24-hour dial, sweep second hand, and civil date feature. The Elgin-Hamilton production was much more complicated in that it had an additional elapsed time mechanism with chrono graph functions controlling the sweep second and elapsed time mechanism. The book Serial Numbers With Description of Wal tham Watch Movements, published by the Waltham Watch Company in 1954, shows a total of 134,000 CDIA clocks being manufactured from September 1941 through October 1944. During this period, thirteen production runs were made. The first serial number was 30,760,001; the last, 31,894,000. Number 31,894,000 not only had the distinction of being the last CDIA made, but it was also the last 37 size, 8-day Waltham movement made, bringing to an end an era of a very versatile timepiece-a movement used in literally thousands of auto mobile, aviation, desk, folding traveling, library and watch man clocks, and box (mounted) chronometers. However, Waltham'~ technical specification information lists models 12815-S-12 and 12815-S-TT-12 as also being CDIA clocks and they are included in the above total. Yet, the only similarity between these two models of aircraft clocks and the CDIA is that they were 37 size, ran for eight days, and had a sweep Figure 2. Dial and movement removed from case. second hand. The second model was also fitted with a special crystal with elapsed time hands. Some years ago I was told the case which provided access to the regulator. The flat glass the reason for the inclusion was because the design of the sweep crystal was fitted in a bezel which was fastened to the case second mechanism was identical and the basic movement for well by eight bezel screws and was provided with a crystal all three clocks was Waltham's famous 8-day, 37 size, auto spacer and gaskets to seal the movement against dust and mobile, chronometer and desk clock movement. moisture. The bezel assembly contained the civil date set The clock was housed in an AN standard flanged button, which was set flush with the bezel and located at the metal case which was secured to the aircraft's instrument panel 15 o'clock numeral (see Figures 1 and 2). The winding and by four 6-32 round-headed brass mounting screws. The move setting arbor which was part of the movement extended hori ment was attached to the case well by three long movement zontally beyond the front of the clock through a hole in the screws which extended through counterbored holes in the bezel at 14 o'clock or the 1400 position. The winding and set back of the case and was screwed into the train side of the ting knob was screwed to the protruding arbor. pillar plate. A removable screw plug was fitted in the back of (Please turn to next page) November 1988/Horological Times 27 MILITARY TIME (continued from previous page) The dial had a lusterless black finish with printed The continuously running hour, minute, and sweep graduations and numbers. A Munsell Green paint was applied second hands operated over the orbit of the 24-hour dial, to the odd-hour numerals, minute graduations, and the civil which was graduated in minutes. Large Arabic numerals in date numerals and graduations. A yellow fluo rescent material dicated the even-numbered hours from 2 to 24; small Arabic was applied to the even-hour graduations and numbers and the numerals for the odd-numbered hours from 1 to 23. diamond-shaped, odd-hour graduations. Correspondingly, the As mentioned above, the movement was basically civil date had the words 8-day and Civil Date in green; and the Waltham's 37 size, 8-day double barrel automobile clock hour, minute, and sweep second hands were painted with yel which first made its appearance in 1910. The movement has low fluorescent material. The civil date subsidiary dial appeared 15 jewels, the location of each being the same as those general as a small 31-day orbit at the center of the main dial, with ly found in a 15-jewel watch (see Figure 3). numerals showing each 5-day increment. In most clocks and watches with a sweep second hand, an additional wheel and/or pinion operates through a hollow center wheel arbor and is often backed up with an additional jeweled bridge. In order to do away with this additional wheel and/or pinion and bridge, Waltham opted to reposition the time train . They increased the diameter of the fourth wheel, mounted it on a longer arbor, and positioned it through the hollow center wheel arbor to which the sweep second hand was attached. Yet, it still continued to serve its primary func tion of driving the escape wheel. Thus, through this arrange ment, the sweep second mechanism was resolved into the direct drive type, a more positive approach to overcoming the back lash or jerky motion of the sweep second hand. The civil date indexing and setting mechanism was located on the dial side of the pillar plate (see Figure 4). To set the civil date hand manually, it was necessary to depress the set date button with a small blunt object, such as a key or piece of pegwood. Each depression of the button advanced the hand one day. Therefore, this operation had to be repeat ed if more than one day was necessary or until the desired setting was reached. Depressing the set button forced the coned setting arbor downward causing the setting lever to push against one tooth of the ratchet toothed calendar wheel which resulted Figure 3. Movement view of Waltham's 37 size, 8-day COIA clock. in the rotation of the wheel and civil date hand approximately 1/31 of a revolution. The action of the spring pawl against the ratchet tooth limited the rotation to exactly one tooth or the equivalent of one graduation on the civil date dial. This being a 24-hour clock, the hour wheel made one revolution every 24 hours. So, in order to actuate the calendar mechanism, an indexing pin was positioned on the underside of the hour wheel near its outer circumference. The ratchet tooth calendar wheel rode freely on the pipe of the hour wheel with its action being controlled by the spring pawl against its ratchet teeth. As the time approached 2400 o clock, the indexing pin gradually engaged the long indexin.g lever cam and slowly pushed the lever outward. This ca,used the short indexing lever cam on the extreme end of the hook-shaped lever to become disengaged from one calendar ratchet wheel tooth and fall behind the next tooth. At 2400, as the long cam dropped off the indexing pin, the coiled indexing lever calendar spring snapped the lever back to its original position, causing the short indexing lever cam to rotate the calendar ratchet wheel a dist;mce equivalent to one graduation on the civil date dial as controlled by the spring pawl. Figure 4. An under-the-dial view of the civil date indexing and setting mechanism of Waltham's COIA clock. 28 Horological Times/November 1988 Seeking Prospective Candidates For AWi Board of Directors he committee involved with securing can Each recommendation will be carefully didates to run for the AWi Board of Direc considered by the committee. Candidates will be 7 tors is seeking recommendations from the selected on the basis of their past local association membership. If you plan to suggest a possible can- or AWi experience, geographical location, present didate, please send that individual's name and job status, horological experience, and willingness background to: Mr. Bill Biederman, Chairman, to serve. Nominations for Board of Directors Committee, Mr. Biederman must receive all recommen AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, dations before December31, 1988to be considered Ohio 45211. for the 1989 election. SHARP® QUARTZ for Quality, Style, & Value • Quality & Dependability backed by a name SHARP® you can trust Now ... The BETTER Watch Buy! •Quartz Reliability-Set it & forget it! Japanese Movements by the Makers • Retails from $9.95-$79.95. Compares to that Pioneered Quartz Timepieces other brands for much, much more! •Slim Elegance for sport & dress •FREE CATALOG UPON REQUEST •Model features include: 0 Water Resistant 0 Genuine Leather 0 Day-Date Straps 0 Long-Life Batteries 0 Scrat~h Resistant 0 Expansion Bands Mineral Crystals SHARP® 5 YEAR PERFORMANCE WARRANTY* *5 Year limited warranty supplied with each watch. © Sharp Int. Corp. 456 West Columbus Drive Tampa, Florida 33602 800-282-0685 All States Toll-Free Tampa - (813) 229-2715 Wholesale - Watchmaker & Jeweler's Supplies Inquiries or Information - (813) 229-2806 November 1988/Horological Times 29 SHOPTALK Wes Door, CMW Quartz Module Retrofitting ver five years ago Heidi Kemmerer of Seattle, WA one side of which is yellow and the other side is blue. It is contributed a couple of "Shop Talk" articles. Since available at many material suppliers and hardware or drug & they were so well received and there is still a need stores. Scissors may be used to cut off a smal I piece of th is for this information, we decided to reprint the essence of these ribbon epoxy strip. After cutting through this epoxy, we must articles. I will add some additional methods which may be "knead thoroughly" before using. This mixing does prove that used in our ever-increasing need to properly and profitably blue and yellow make green, which will be the color of our retrofit. epoxy after mixing. Many watches requiring movement exchanges have dress cases. They are not very dustproof with a snap-on back. METHOD ONE These cases were usually meant for a specific shaped move Step 1: Use the container your replacement move ment, generally larger and thicker than the quartz or mechan ment came in. Grease the inside with some oil and fill it with ical replacements available. This presents the watchmaker with the mixed epoxy. Invert it over a greased, smooth, hard sur several cha Ilenges. ( 1) How to secure the new movements in face (such as an anvil) and rub hard so the epoxy fills the the caseback. (2) How to fill up the extra space and make the entire container. Then insert a paper clip where the stem watch dustproof. (3) How to align the dial easily. (4) How to would be for easy handling. do all this in a workmanlike manner, that looks neat, and that After the epoxy dries (overnight) we will have a form will last a while without spending vast amounts of time on the the exact size, shape, and depth of the exchange movement. job. This form is reusable, so we need not repeat Step 1 each time. One problem for watchmakers is discovering materials If available, we may also incorporate an old pillar plate into from the newer technologies that will work without having this form for more durability. adverse side effects. Many of the plastics a person cou Id use Step 2: Align the pillar plate of the exchange move to fill up the space in casebacks also give off fumes which ment with the form, insert a screwdriver through the dial foot could affect the oils in a movement or even leave a residue holes, and drill down into the form. This is to mark the form within the watch. The "ribbon epoxy" that we will explain for dial foot placement. An alternative, if the dial has been here is safe to use. It is a putty epoxy that comes in a strip, soldered with the appropriate dial feet, is to mark the center Figure 1 1. MAKING A FORM Invert and rub on a hard, smooth, Insert paperclip or other wire for easy Insert ball of mixed putty epoxy into greased surface, removing or adding handling. Let set overnight, then remove the greased plastic container that the epoxy as necessary, until epoxy fills all epoxy from mold. We now have a form replacement movement came in. corners of container. the size and shape of the movement. 2. DIAL FEET Option B. We can solder on the feet. Option A. Use old movement with same dial foot placement. Remove train, etc., glue hour wheel back in place. Send plate to dial company Option C. Some people use double-faced tape, in which Step 3 can be with old dial; have them solder new feet. altered to suit. 30 Horological Times/November 1988 of the form, inserting a post into the epoxy, aligning the dial around that post, and pressing the feet into the epoxy to mark the dial foot placement. It is important to be accurate. Press the dial into the form, put some white glue KEY TEST (or other water soluble glue) onto the back of the form, and insert it into the caseback. Snap the case together and FOR jiggle the movement around in the case until the dial aligns with the crystal opening. We may need to put a little Rodico® QUARTZ WATCHES between the dial and bezel to hold the form down firmly u nti I the glue sets. Step 3: After the glue has set, remove the dial from the form. Grease the form and the caseback if the spacer needs The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" to be easy to remove; otherwise just grease the form. Mix some putty epoxy and begin building it up by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple around the form in the caseback, pressing it in with tweezers method of locating the problem in a quartz or pegwood. A fairly large opening may be left around the analog movement. The only tool required is a stem hole and filled later with silicone rubber (Aquarium® meter. sealant). Step 4: When the epoxy is dry, remove the form. Material and instructions for learning this test Sand the ribbon epoxy spacer that we have created in the case is supplied by the AWi-ELM Trust as part of back until it is flush. Wash the caseback to remove the white their educational work. There is no charge to glue and dust. Then add silicone rubber. If the movement is any group wishing to learn this test. There are (Please turn to page 33) great benefits to learning this in a group setting. However, for individuals who may not be able 3. FINDING PLACEMENT OF MOVEMENT to participate in a group, it is available to them also. PILLAR PL/l.TE For more information call or write to the A WI 1 -----~-~: I F1 office for an information sheet and application form. E POX'( ! :J ~ FORM I I - - ~' - ____. Using pillar plate for template, drill holes for dial feet in epoxy Ul...... _t...,_,. STATEMENT OF OWN EJ!S HJP,,...,~~_f~~fNT AND CIRCULATION form. A screwdriver makes a good drill in the soft epoxy. f'l..o rti looicill Times '~ -- Monthly 12 I $40 . 00 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Hamilton, Ohio 45211-4724 ...' 12,, 9 0 3 •--+------"\ Same as item H4 CASE: V BACK "' 6 ,' American Watchmakers Institute Milton c. Stevens, American Watchmakers Inst. 3700 Harrison Ave , Cincinnati, OH 45211 Re _g ina Stenger, American Watchmakers Inst. 3700 Harrison Ave . Cincinnati, OH 45211 Insert dial into form. Put glue Snap case together. Align on form back and insert dial with crystal opening. into caseback. Allow glue to dry. ' .:- ~ ..,...,...... -~~~~~ .. ~1 ·- .. ,,....~ - r - --.1111....._ \Wltl• ...... 1111- '--• lll" - - - · ...... _ 4. MAKING SPACER IN CASE ""•• '"H11No•Chong1dDuring '"Ho•Chong~dOu11ng fl/ •""""R"I p•l>i•1iv' '"'"' '"~'"" 'xrl•""JI""' of Procodmg 12M~th• Procoding 12MonTh• O O '°""R' "'"" '~" ""'""'"' ! hton1ondNotLJroo!CorcL>11Uon .t, vorogoN0Cop1uE1chls.uoDLH1ng Ac1u olN0Cop1., olSonglo l .. uo 15,,,..,,,..<,.,,.,,"" "~'"''''' P1ocoding 12Monlh• Published Nooro5l ioF1longDol• A TotolNoCopoot(/•l.iPmiR""! 8500 8500 8 Po•d ondlorRo~u&0lodC1rcul1\lon 1 S1l11lhroughdooloroor>dcomor• >1ro01vendor•ondrnunforulo• None None 62Ji3 6179 C To\ol P11d ond/or Ro~uo>?od c,,c.,ln1on IS""'"'IOBlw"dlOB2) 6)19 D FrH o .. uibu11on by Ma~ , Cornor 01 Other Mun• / S omol•• ComolimonlOry endO\h1rFrooCop1os 1255 1433 Build up epoxy around the Remove dial. Grease form and 7518 7612 F CoP•• •NorO ..\nbu\ o d caseback if spacer is to be form in the case pressing it 1 OU1c1u10 ~ltovor unoccoun11dc '1'0ilod 1f!Orprin11ng SBB removable, otherwise just in with pegwood. Be certain .... --''-"' ---- to fill all corners. Let it grease the form. 11 I cenlfy th11t the 1tetemente m1deby lSigj?{t•t•f '~ 1' m"' ~ ._...,M..._. •0- harden overnight. me 11bov11 11r11 correct end complete V/ I A1 ~ V.\...J ) - - November 1988/Horological Times 31 Old JVatches Ch arl es Cleves MOVADO AHEAD OF ITS TIME m the dawn of the wristwatch era, the Movado Perhaps this early model and line of thinking inspired Gruen atch Company has produced many unusual feature to research and develop the curvex movements. istwatches that are collectible today. In 1912 they introduced the series 400 polyplan movement pictured in Fig The earlier case styles were tonneau-shaped, as seen ure 1. This movement was way ahead of its time. In order to in Figure 2. They were 44mm long-which is only 2mm short have a large, durable movement in a highly curved case to con er than the 1920s models. The earlier cases were also more tour to a man's wrist, they developed a movement with three banana-shaped and rounded looking than the later ones. The angles. The main plate or back plate of the watch movement is most valuable watches are the later ones with straight sides. one solid piece with three angles. All of the wheels and bridges They measure 46mm from the tip of one Jug to the tip of the are mounted onto this plate from the dial side as seen in the other. (When wristwatch collectors speak of length, they lay factory picture in Figure 1. The balance and escapement are the watch on top of a flat ruler. They do not use a flexible on the angular plane at the 6 side of the movement. The wind ruler and contour it to the shape of the watch.) Because of the ing and setting mechanism is located at the far other side on angular movement, all of these case styles were highly curved the angular plane. The stem was placed at the 12 o'clock and fit a man's wrist quite comfortably. The only problem position to give the sides of the case a cleaner, sleeker look. that kept this watch from achieving its true potential is that Another reason was that it was easier to have all of the train Movado dropped it out of their lines before the rise in pop wheels on the same plane in the middle. By moving the wind ularity of the curvex watch in the late 1930s and early 1940s. ing parts onto the angular plane, there was enough room for These watches start in value around $1200 in sterling silver all of the train wheels without making them very small in size. cases. Figure 1 Serie 400: Polyplan (brevete) ,-~-, .\). . ,/ t I.{ !-.-..:. l ~ ~ 0 i1..i:s ~ss \. ,./ 1265 1456 1664 e 185l 1912 1964 20.55 0 17 16 • 507 o· ....__ W1 t:;:jp• ~· ~ 1·11 226i> 2155 262 2076 33'26 , 223 169 MOVADO I ril oi&~O © ®8 \ 0 ® 3409 39G2 4011 4116 2121- 41 72 39Ll8 151 7 2864 77 377 2 5B2\ 4004 155 PREMIERS PRIX ? 1 ~~.- 3uJ3 }064 31\1 3517 2413 2879 315'- 3048 3139 3184- 3326 JU56 3289 2909 3288 2 67 1 .. 200 - 37. 32 Horological Times/November 1988 Figure 4 Another area in which Movado excelled was that of $400 in stainless steel or gold filled. Unlike some other types calendar watches. In the early 1940s they introduced several of collectible watches, the smaller case styles are the more different case styles with a triple calendar movement (Figure valuable ones. 3). The month and the day of the week appeared in small One of the most interesting calendar watches made windows between the center post and the 3 and 9 positions. by Movado was called Calendermeto. It was a purse or pocket The day of the month was the outermost ring of the dial with watch with a slide-apart case (Figure 4). This watch winds by an extra hand under the hour hand that pointed to the number. opening and closing the case. Thus, every time you look to see In the early 1950s they created an automatic model with these what time it is you are winding the watch. The movement in same features but moved the day/date windows up where the this watch has the calendar windows above and below the cen Movado name is in Figure 3. This model was named Calen ter post. The moonphase aperture is to the right of the center. domatic. The most valuable of the calendar watches were the As in the wristwatches, there is a day of the month hand under ones where they added the moonphase also. On the moon the hour hands. All of the models with a calendar moonphase phase watches the day/date windows were also above the cen movement that I have seen were in leather cases. These watches ter post so that the moonphase mechanism could be fitted start around $400. Ermetowatches are more commonly found behind the seconds bit. Usually the top post of the seconds without the calendar and moonphase. They are readily avail track was cut out in a little area so that the moon disc could able at major watch shows but there is not a great demand for be seen. These models with the moonphase start around them unless they have the moonphase. ULIB SHOP TALK Figure 2 (Continued from page 31) METHOD TWO thinner than the back, we may want to add some more epoxy to the caseback for support. See Figure 1 for a review of these steps. METHOD TWO This method is a way to directly make a filler (spacer) without a transfer. This method may be preferred for some cases (no pun intended). Materials needed are a sheet of A. Cut a narrow Mylar plastic strip and wrap it around the edge Mylar plastic and ribbon epoxy. A sheet of Mylar plastic can of the module. Use Scotch tape to hold the ends together. be purchased from an office supply store. Step 1: Cut a narrow strip of Mylar and wrap it around the edge of the new exchange movement. Use Scotch TM tape to hold the ends together. Step 2: Cut another piece of Mylar to the size and shape to fit inside the caseback. It does not need to be cut accurately as it may be removed later (our option). See Figure c 2B. Also cut another narrow piece of Mylar and wrap it round the inside of the back. See Figure 2C. This may also be Scotch taped in place if necessary. Step 3: Place the new movement in the center and fill in the space with ribbon epoxy (Figure 20). After the space B. Cut a piece of Mylar to fit the inside (bottom) of the watch filler epoxy has hardened, the Mylar may be left or removed caseback. as desired. The filler epoxy will need to be adjusted accord C. Cut the third piece of Mylar to fit (and line) the inside rim ingly. of the caseback. Each retrofitting job is different and may require D. Place the movement in the center of the back. Fill space different methods. We hope some of the above suggestions with epoxy. are helpful. November 1988/Horological Times 33 CLOCK TBOl!BLESHOOTINC Leo A. Jaroslaw (All rights reserved by author) ©1988 A DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEMS APPI~OACI-I PART TWO ast month in Part One we introduced you to the dif try to verify the symptoms described by the operator/owner ference between troubleshooting and repairing, the in the interview. Sometimes the equipment is okay but the application of systematic troubleshooting processes operator did not operate it properly. S/he forgot to engage the to a variety of equipment and systems, and a discussion of "watchamacallit," or did so at the wrong time; or s/he threw troubleshooting strategies. the switch at the blue light instead of the yellow. The compe tent troubleshooter (who, by the way, must be skilled in the COMPETENT TROUBLESHOOTING STRATEGIES operation of the equipment) runs through the normal operating Research in many fields has shown that competent trouble procedure, attempting to replicate and verify the problem. In shooters generally follow the strategy discussed in Part One, many situations equipment operators are the problem, not the and are much more effective than those who don't. equipment. Let us get a little more specific. In the following dis Clockwise-After the customer leaves the clock in cussion, after outlining a general strategy step of the competent your shop, or if you are on a house call, set up the clock to troubleshooter, we will introduce a clock tactic (application) verify the problem. It could be that the customer (operator) of that strategic step. has described the problem accurately, as it is replicated when 1) Discuss problem/symptoms with operators of the you set it going. If you verify the symptom, your approach equipment (clock owners). These people probably witnessed can be more positive as you know the problem actually exists. the symptoms, how the equipment reacted, what the en Then again, the malfunction could be intermittent vironmental conditions were. Sometimes through proper ques and is not verified in a short test run. You may then want to tioning the operator (owner) will bring out information that is question the customer along the line of what in your experi pertinent and helpful to the troubleshooter. ence could have caused the problem; or you could continue Clockwise-If you are a clock repairer with a custom the test run for at least a full 30-hour/8-day cycle. It would be er's (or other's) clock, ask questions such as (if it is your clock, ineffective to continue through a detailed problem solving ask these questions of yourself): If the clock has stopped process if you were not sure the problem existed. In this Does it run at all? If so, for how long? Was the clock level? situation the writer would thoroughly inspect the clock for Was it in beat (describe tick-tock)? How long since the clock wear or other malfunction which could possibly cause the was cleaned? Or lubricated? Where is it located? What are the symptom. This would be followed up with a repair if neces environmental conditions? sary, then cleaning, adjustment and lubrication. Then a retest. If the strike is off-Does it strike at all? If so, does it If the symptoms described by the owner do not oc strike on the hour and half hour? If it strikes on the hour, does cur, you could assume that the customer did not know how to it strike more or less than the correct number? properly care for and/or set up/operate the clock. In such a Follow-up questions are then based upon the custom case you could instruct the owner in the proper setup of the er's response. If the owner's responses don't trigger an imme clock, including fastening to the wall if indicated; and normal diate idea of the cause, it should be noted for future reference. operating procedures, e.g. how to set the time, strike and/or 2) Verify symptoms. Most competent troubleshooters chime on the assumption that s/he did something wrong. 34 Horological Times/November 1988 3) Attempt quick fixes. Competent troubleshooters through the equipment. have a vast knowledge of trouble probability information There are several approaches to the step-by-step common problem causal situations and/or conditions, as well search procedure: 1) Random Search-A haphazard replace as some unusual conditions which might be indicated by a ment and/or readjustment of components, then retesting the common symptom. As s/he is verifying the symptoms re system. This procedure is repeated until a fix occurs. Obvious ported by the customer/ operator, s/he may try a quick fix, ly, this is pure guesswork, a process used primarily by the un such as checking fuses, jiggling switches, kicking doors; or skilled or the incompetent troubleshooter/repairer. 2) Sequen s/he may perform a preventative maintenance operation. If tial Search-This approach involves systematic testing from the quick fix works, the equipment is up and running. one end of the equipment/system, point by point through to Clockwise-In the writer's opinion, the best quick the other end, or until the source of the malfunction is located. fix for a clock is cleaning, adjusting and lubrication-a good It is possible that the trouble is at or near the end of the sys cleaning job. A large proportion of all problem clocks are tem. A very ineffective process as excessive time and effort is cleared with the normal routine cleaning procedure. If, during spent to reach the desired point. The sequential search is ef the test process, the symptoms continue or reappear, you have fective primarily with short systems usually having less than at least eliminated a major source of trouble . Additionally, five components. 3) Split-half or Halfsplit Search (also called wear, misalignments, bent parts, mismating, loose and mis Troubleshooting Logic)-This is the most effective search pro adjusted parts are more easily discernible during inspection, cedure in systems with five or more components. It yields the and trouble search if the movement has been cleaned. most information with the least steps. In this procedure, the NOTE: One situation when cleaning is not advised system is first tested at or near the midpoint. If at that point on very old (antique, nonproduction) movements it tests normal, then half or close to half of the system is with some parts missing which will have to be made. eliminated. The next test is taken again at approximately the Tell-tale marks, i.e. scratch and rubbed marks on halfway point in the balance of the system, and so on until plates, will give clues to the shape/ size/position of the problem is located. The purpose of this procedure is to the original missing parts. Cleaning can be accom eliminate a large portion with each test. If the test result is plished after the new parts/repairs are completed. bad or not normal, the problem is before the test point. If the test is normal, the trouble is further on in the equipment. 4) Review troubleshooting guides. When all the steps For example, take a string of old-fashioned Christmas above are completed and the cause of the fault still hasn't tree lights. They were hooked up in series. If one bulb is de been located, competent troubleshooters seek further informa fective, all are out. tion. If available, the next step is to use troubleshooting per NOTE: For those nonelectricians let me digress a formance aids or guides to attempt to track down the cause moment and explain. In a series circuit the current of the malfunction. Troubleshooting guides guide the trouble has to flow through one light to get to the next. When shooter through an effective path in the search for information. one lamp blows, it acts as a break in the line (cir They act as thinking prompts, guiding the troubleshooter cuit) and the current cannot flow through any of through a series of observations, tests, or checks. After each the lamps. Result: no lights. action, questions are asked. Based upon the response the Suppose we have a string of 64 bulbs which won't troubleshooter is guided to the appropriate next step. Guides light up. Based upon past experience we know that one or usually start with a symptom, then take you through one or more bulbs must have blown. You would troubleshoot this more troubles which could cause such symptoms. "system" using a test meter. Using the sequential search pro Manuals/books about a special piece of equipment cedure ( #2 above) you would remove the first and last bulbs are not written as troubleshooting guides. They are basic and insert the test meter. sources relating to how the equipment works, although some NOTE: Again for the nonelectricians: In this system may include performance aids/guides in them. It takes a high one of the two wires coming from the plug goes to ly skilled person to interpret "how it works" into probable the first socket threaded shell, or the center contact. causes of malfunctioning conditions. The other goes to the last socket opposite the first Clockwise-The writer has not come across any trou socket. In each socket the wire connectors from the bleshooting performance guides specifically related to clocks. shell of one is attached to the center contact of the As stated above, almost all clock books describe "how it other. The filament in the bulb is the connection or works" or "how to repair." Some will describe the symptom path for current flow within the socket. atic results of a particular problem. This lack of pertinent If the first socket reads out "good" on the meter, you information was the stimulus for this series. would replace the first bulb and go on to the next. This pat NOTE: Since this was written, the writer has pur tern is repeated until you don't get a reading on the meter. chased a copy of Laurie Penman's book "The Clock You would then know that the previous bulb is the defective Repairer's Handbook," 1985 Arco Publishing, NY, one. If you are lucky you will have taken only one reading, which has a chapter on faults and a troubleshooting but you may have had to take 64. On an average, if you tested guide. many strings, you would make 32 tests to locate the bad bulb. S) Step-by-step search. Even if troubleshooting guides With the split half troubleshooting logic only six are available, it is impossible to cover every potential trouble . tests maximum would be required. To proceed, first test the In clocks especially, where over the years there have been 30-second bulb. If the meter reads a current flow, it indicates many different makers and designs, each of these designs has that those bulbs to this point are okay; the trouble is in the its own idiosyncrasies. Complete guidance therefore would be next half of the string. Next go to the 48th bulb which is the improbable. When all available information and the procedures halfway point in the remaining 32 bulbs. Continue "halving" outlined above do not result in discovery of the source of until you locate the troublesome culprit, or are down to the trouble, competent troubleshooters take a step-by-step search (Please turn to page 37) November 1988/Horological Times 35 Do you have information ULLETI regarding this month's re STARK LATHE quests? Do you need infor mation about one of this An AWI member in Cape Coral, FL has purchased a wheel OARD month's responses? If so, cutting lathe manufactured by the Stark Tool Company of send an S.A.S.E. and your Waltham, MA. From the center of the collet to the bed request to: Bulletin Board, measures 27!1 inches. AWI's call to directory service in A. NEW REQUESTS Horological Times, 3700 Waltham, MA failed to reveal a listing for this firm, and Harrison Ave., Cinti., OH 45211. AWI's lathe expert, Archie Perkins, has no data on it. Our SWARTCHILD & CO. member seeks an operator's manual. If you can provide a MATERIAL CABINET "ID" CHART manual, we will photocopy it and return your manual to A member from Blackwood, NJ is seeking the identifi you. cation chart for a Swartchild & Company two-drawer metal material cabinet that was marketed by Swartchild THE AMERICAN CLOCK COMPANY - CHICAGO between 1940-1950. The top drawer contains the following An AWI member in Pocatello, Idaho seeks information numbers: 499010A 3-190; the bottom drawer 499010A for the repair and servicing of an American Clock Com 196-1603. If you have such an assortment and can provide pany electric clock. The address given on the clock is this information, it will make our member's material assort Chicago, Illinois. It has two electromagnets with a ratchet ment useful once again-as it is of little value. mechamism and switch. This is a pendulum movement and has patent numbers: November 21, 1899 and July 31, REGULA CUCKOO CLOCKS 1900. The newer Regula cuckoo clocks have the bellows glued AWI has secured copies of the patent drawings right to the case. A Minnesota member would like to hear and specifications, but would like to copy any technical from anyone who has developed a satisfactory method for instructions that may be available for this clock. removing them so they can be reinstalled again. B. RESPONSES There have been no responses to last month's requests at the time copy was due for the November issue. C.ITEMS STILL NEEDED OPERATING BULLETIN OR INFORMATION REGARDING A MICROTEST TESTER I have a Microtest No. Bat. 340.00 quartz watch tester which is a handy little gadget. However where the instruc tions mention: ' Audibre 'Pip' and alternately flashing green diodes," I find some movements do not alternate (such as Y220A -2C20A); and when some movements don't, every once in a while they do alternate. Movements with sweep see onds hands always do. Is there some way of knowing which ones do and which ones don't? B.M., Georgetown, MA sue CRYSTAL CATALOG Two AWI members presently seek a copy of a catalog for SUC crystals. AWi does not have one in its files. If a reader can supply a copy, we will photocopy it for our two ACCUTRON 218 COILS members and keep one on hand for future requests. It is An AWi member ill Norfolk, Virginia writes: I would like our understanding that sue crystals have not been manu to purchase some Accutron 218 cell coils. Do you know factured for some time. of anyone who can supply some? Your magazine has had some people advertising that they can repair old coils. I would like to find someone who still can repair these HAMILTON 500 AND 505 BATTERIES coils. Several times this month we have been asked for a substi EDITOR'S NOTE: From time to time we have tute energy cell to use in the Hamilton 500 and 505 watches become aware of sources for these coils; recently all of since batteries are no longer available for these specific these sources have "dried up. " Larry Blanchard Co. was watches. We would welcome information about suitable the last one we knew of to repair the coils; they no longer substitutes or ideas on how others cope with the problem offer this service. We would welcome any information of a new cell. available regarding a source for coils or their repair. 36 Horological Times/November 1988 CLOCK TROUBLESHOOTING BOOKS: (Continued from page 35) BENCH PRACTICES FOR WATCH/CLOCKMAKERS-Henry B. Fried. Hairspring practices, replacing regulator pins, jeweling and last two. One more test will isolate the cause. With six tests dial repairs. $16.95 (maximum) instead of the average 32, you will have increased CAVALCADE OF TIME-Henry B. Fried. Highlights of the Zale your effectiveness fivefold. The effectiveness of this trouble Private Collection of Timepieces. $16.95 shooting sequence increases exponentially as the system be THE BEST OF J.E. Coleman-CLOCKMAKER-Orville R. Hagans. comes more complex. An aid to solving everyday problems in clock repair. $30.00 Clockwise-Let's look at a five-arbor time train. Symp ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR-Sean C. ("Pat") Monk. A prac tom: With power driving the main wheel (spring or weight), ticing clockmaker reveals repairing secrets. $19.95 the escape wheel does not move (drop) when the crutch (or pendulum) is shifted by hand. You observe that a 'scape tooth GRUEN WATCH ES, A SPECIAL COLLECTION-Robert D. Gruen. Booklet is a publication devoted to the Gruen collection on display is not hung up on either pallet. The 'scape wheel is free when at the Orville R. Hagans AWi Museum. $6.95 tested with a finger. Experience tells you that there is a bind somewhere in the system which now encompasses the wheels, HOW TO REPAIR HERSCHEDE TUBULAR BELL CLOCKS Steven G. Conover. A book for the serious clockmaker interested pinions, arbors, pivots, and pivot bearings (holes and/or bush in high-quality timepieces. $12.95 ings in the plates). QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE WATCHMAKING PROFES Using the half-split system: First check the third SION-AWi. Helpful information on repairing watches. $5.95 wheel for freedom with finger pressure. If it is free it means that power isn't reaching it. Your next check is: if power is QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE CLOCKMAKING PROFES SION-AWi. Experts answer everyday questions about clockmaking. not reaching the third wheel/arbor, the cause of the bind must $14.95 be in the system somewhere before it, either the first or sec ond arbor and/or their associated components. REPAIRING QUARTZ WATCHES-Henry B. Fried. Includes a basic course in electricity and electronic horology. $22.95. Your next check is the second arbor/wheel. Test the second wheel for freedom of movement. If it is free, the prob STRIKING CLOCKS-Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D. A hands-on survey for lem is in the main wheel/arbor. If it is tight, try to rotate the clockmaker. $7.95 the wheel against the spring/weight tension, opposite the THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER-Marvin E. Whitney. A concise normal direction of rotation. It binds. Let down the spring treatise on the fascinating nautical timepiece .. . for the collector as or remove the weight. Then recheck. wel I as the horologist. $75.00 Assume for this example that it still binds. You have WATCH & CLOCK INFORMATION, PLEASE-W.H. Samelius. isolated the problem to that arbor and its associated compo The writing of Samelius edited by O.R . Hagans. $30.00 nents-wheel, pinion, individual teeth, bent arbor/pivots, THE WATCH ESCAPEMENT-Henry B. Fried. How to analyze, ad rough pivots, or worn bearings. Visually check for each of just, repair the lever and cylinder, and more. $14.95 these potential causal areas. One or a combination of several THE WATCH REPAIRER'S MANUAL-Henry B. Fried. The newly should be obvious. Sight, feel, and experience will determine expanded and updated Fourth Edition of this popular textbook on the exact causal factor(s). 'ULIB watch repair. $27.00 ALL BOOKS & VIDEOS AWi PRESS SHIPPED POSTPAID r------BOOKS& Please make check or money order payable to AWi PRESS. U.S. FUNDS ONLY, PLEASE. Send the following book(s)/video(s): VIDEOS (LIST BY TITLE) VIDEOS: BASIC JEWELRY REPAIR-Marshall Richmond. 1 hr., 52 minutes covering ring sizing, shanks-half and full, prong repair and tipping, AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE stone setting, complete ring fabrication, torches, filing, sawing, 3700 Harrison Ave., P.O. Box 11011 and finishing. VHS and Beta. $49.95 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 INTRODUCTION TO THE MULTIMETER & TESTING QUARTZ WATCHES-James Adams. A no-nonsense approach to quartz watch repair. Using a Citizen multimeter and an ESA 963 calibre quartz Address ______watch, Mr. Adams explains how to use and understand readings of the meter as various checks are performed to diagnose problems with City ______quartz watches. The 1 hr., 30-minute video will teach you to transfer the instructions for use of the Citizen multimeter to any meter you State ______Zip Code ______have. VHS and Beta. $49.95 November 1988/Horologi.cal Times 37 Marshall F. Richmond, CMW SOLDER PROBLEMS ver the past several years, I have been consulted about prob the solder. The same applies to the hardness of the solder. The hard lems some of our craftsmen have had with soldering. These flow of a given karat is harder than the easy flow; the higher the karat, & have varied from soft solder to silver and gold hard solders. the harder the solder after it has been applied and cooled. We might Some problems were in getting solder to flow, some that the joints compare metal to water in one sense because it has a range of tempera did not have strength, while others were pits left in the solder joints tures where it is solid, another range of temperatures where it is liquid, after finishing and polishing. Another problem would be in the pol and another range of temperatures where it is a gas (vapor). Water in ishing of white solder-some of the metal would be polished away, its solid form is called ice, in its liquid form is water, and in its gas leaving a noticeable depression where the solder joint is. form is called steam. Metal is the solid form, moulten metal the liquid As I have never laid claim to be a master "know all" jewel form, while the gas is just a vapor. er, these problems have to be approached with the knowledge that I In gold solders, the karat marked on the solder does not re have accumulated in around 50 years of practice, most of which has fer to the gold content of the solder but to the karat gold it was formu been learned from experience. It seems to me that with a better knowl lated to be used on. Actually, the gold content is less than 14 in 14K edge of solder the answers that I give will possibly be better understood. gold solder. The melting point of solders is determined by the melting First, I will try to explain my understanding of soldering, heat, and points of the metals that are alloyed together to make the solder. Using · the use of flux. lower melting temperature metals with the gold will lower the melting Soldering is flowing a metal with a lower melting tempera temperature of the solder. So in using easy flow solders the metal does ture on a metal with a higher melting temperature. Welding is flowing not have to be as hot to make the solder flow when using the hard flow metals together with the same melting temperatures. Most of us have solders. As hard flow solders flow at a temperature much closer to the heard the word "brazing," and it refers to repairing iron or steel using melting point of the metal being soldered, it is easier to melt the metal brass to bond it together. This is actually a form of soldering. enough to distort its shape. However, in using hard flow solders two Soft solder is usually an alloy of lead, tin, and/or zinc or things can be accomplished. One is a harder solder joint and the other is other low-melting metals. Different formulas are used for different that if more solder joints need be made near this joint they can be made needs. Soft solder can be applied with a soldering iron or a torch or with easy flow with little danger of melting the first solder joint. other methods furnishing heat. There are also many formulas of silver Although I do not use temperatures in working with solders, or gold solder made for specific purposes. Usually a solder can be found sometimes I do use the temperatures for comparison when planning to that can be considered an all-around solder and other than special do an intricate repair, so I will list some temperature figures for gold critical jobs it does the job well. Although specific temperatures can be and silver solders. found for metals which will include melt temperature or vaporize (boil) temperatures, in general, soldering such as we use in jewelry crafting and KARAT SOLDER MELT FLOW repair, it would not be practical or profitable to set a laboratory up 1OK easy yellow 1100 1280 equipped with a pyrometer and hardness gauges to obtain the melt 1OK hard yellow 1230 1380 and flow we need for the work we do. lOK easy white 1130 1290 Practice and experience will tell us how to prepare the work. lOK hard white 1245 1390 Using flux to clean the work and to prevent oxidation will keep the 14K easy yellow 1150 1325 solder from flowing and making a good bond. It will also let us get 14K hard yellow 1260 1390 Fahrenheit the feel and the look of the metal and solder as it melts and flows. 14K easy white 1170 1310 Temperatures When heat is applied to metals, they usually turn red before they melt; 14K hard white 1250 1400 as more heat is applied, they will turn a brighter red, then get white 18K easy yellow 1165 1305 hot, at which point they may melt enough to distort. As hard solders 18K hard yellow 1270 1415 have different melt and flow temperatures, they will melt and flow at 18K easy white 1200 1360 different colors of the metal being soldered. 18K hard white 1300 1490 Gold solders are made in low karat yellow and white, 10 karat yellow and white easy flow and hard flow. The 14 karat and 18 SILVER SOLDERS karat are made the same in white and yellow easy or hard flow. Easy easy fl ow (soft) 1280 1325 flow solders flow at a lower temperature than hard flow solders, and medium flow (easy) 1335 1390 the lower the karat gold the lower the melt and flow temperature of hard flow (hard) 1365 1450 38 Horological Times/November 1988 The melt temperature occurs when heat is applied and the this connection. Either soldering paste or acid base liquid is available solder forms a little ball; the flow temperature is when the solder flows at most any hardware store. Hard solder flux can be bought from your into the place to be bonded together. Solder will follow heat and can material or findings supplier. I've always used Batterns® flux for non be pulled as soon as it flows by moving the heat. One way of observing ferrous metals such as gold, silver, copper, brass, or nickel, and Air this is when sizing a ring with a butt or "V" joint. Place the fluxed cosil® for ferrous metals such as stainless steel, steel or sheet metal. solder on either the inside or outside of the ring shank where the Plain borax will work well on most nonferrous metals but is more time ends join, then apply heat from the opposite and watch as the solder consuming to prepare as it needs to be powdered in a borax slate and melts. It will form a ball and as the metal gets hotter will flow through mixed with water. What flux does is act as a cleaning agent and an anti to the other side. oxidizer by coating the metal surrounding the place to be soldered, Hopefully this will give enough understanding of solders so preventing oxidation of the metal from the heat needed to flow the that you will be the better equipped to understand the problems that solder. you have encountered-or will sometime in the future. Another protective precaution is to dip the piece of jewelry Probably the most requests have come in asking about the in a solution of alcohol mixed with boric acid, then ignite and burn pits that show up in a solder joint after polishing and finishing is com the alcohol off, which leaves a protective coating of boric acid over the pleted. There are two basic causes that I have found for this. One is whole piece, preventing oxidation anywhere on the jewelry piece. Re boiling the solder, and the other is dirt. Boiling the solder is caused by moval of the boric acid requires either soaking or boiling in clear water. holding the heat on the solder after it has flowed. When the solder I usually boil my work that will stand boiling in pickling solution, boils, small bubbles form internally in the solder. When the heat is which kills two birds with one stone. It pickles the soldered portion to removed and the solder cooled, the surface may appear smooth, but remove the burnt flux, and removes the boric acid coating as well. when polished using an abrasive, the surface is polished off, exposing I have had inquiries as to whether to use borax and alcohol small bubbles that were made from the solder boiling which will now or boric acid and alcohol. Either will do the same job, but boric acid appear as pits. With the experience gained from hours of working with will completely dissolve in the alcohol; borax will have to be stirred solders the know-how develops, so the feel and observation of flowing or agitated before each use because it will settle to the bottom, not solder lets you know_when to remove the heat for a perfect solder joint. being dissolved in the alcohol. Flux can be applied with a small brush It is better to underheat and reheat to get a perfect flow than called a borax brush by jewelry suppliers, but a small watercolor to overheat and cause the solder to boil. A good example of reheating paint brush will do as well. In applying flux, if the metal to be fluxed is when putting prongs on a prong-type setting with wire. Where the old is heated prior to applying the flux, it will turn white and cover better prong is filed to a taper to the edge of the stone and the end of the than if applied to cold metal. I break up in little squares the solder to wire soldered to this taper, only enough heat should be applied to make be used, place on the asbestos pad, and cover with flux using a borax it stick in proper alignment. After cutting the wire off for the length brush, or pick up with the borax brush that has been dipped in the flux of the prong it will not be tight against the prong with a slight thick and place it on the fluxed surface to be soldered. When solder tipping ness of solder between the prong and the wire. Reheating until the sol prongs, I apply flux with sharpened pegwood to the tips of the prongs, der again flows will suck the wire tightly against the prong making a and after heating the prongs I can control the amount of flux and apply solder joint that is tight, and when filed to shape and polished will look it only to the tip where the solder is to flow. just like the original prong. Some of the problems that I have been consulted about that Pits caused by dirt can be from dirt on the metal to be sol concerned the flow of solder have proved to be that not enough heat dered, dirty flux or oxide that has not been removed before fluxing. was applied. Another was that the flux had been burned off, letting the Most jewelry that I have to solder that can be boiled in acid (pickling metal oxidize so the solder would not flow. Others have been from con solution) without damage to any stones, enamel, or other delicate ma taminated flux and yet others have been by trying to use hard flow sol terials are first boiled in acid then cleaned with a soap and ammonia der when being used to easy flow which requires more heat. solution before even preparing to solder. This removes any oxides or The problem of polishing white gold where soldered and it dirt around the area to be soldered. This will remove the buildup of leaving a depression which made a visible line is caused by the solder soap or detergent around stones in rings that will burn when heat is being softer than the parent metal. In this case the solution is to use a applied and if not causing pits in the solder joint make it somtimes harder solder which can be a higher karat solder, and a hard flow or almost impossible to clean after the work is finished . welding solder which when polished will leave no depression (so should Too much emphasis cannot be placed on the value of clean be invisible). liness in doing jewelry crafting or repair. Even in doing simple ring Another thing that I would like to mention is an observa sizing it is a good idea to pre-clean every job before starting the work. tion made when using silver solder on brass. When polished, the solder Dirty flux when applied can also cause pits because when the dirt has joint was the same yellow color as the brass even though the silver sol solder flowed over it, it can vaporize with the small bubbles being under der is a white color. I can give no logical explanation for this, but I the surface of the solder. When it has cooled and likewise when pol have even accidentally used white gold solder on yellow gold and it was ished, the pits will show up in the place where soldered. not noticeable. I do not recommend using other color solders when do Flux may need some explaining for a good understanding so ing jewelry crafting and repair, but if it happens by error more than I will try and explain my understanding and knowledge of flux. For likely it will still be a passable job. soft soldering zinc chloride makes a good flux and can be made by The next article will deal with more problems that have been dissolving zinc in hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid). This is fine for brought to my attention and the best explanation I can give as to causes soft soldering anything that is not electrical. For electrical connections and solutions. a solder paste that is available should be used, because an acid base flux will cause an internal corrosion and electrical current will not pass November 1988/Horological Times 39 Determining Tap Drill Size By Robert D. Porter, CMW atch and clock screw threads may be compared to major diameter: the largest diameter of a screw thread. a forest in which one can quickly become lost if pitch diameter: the diameter of an imaginary cylinder, not extremely careful. This is true because there the surface of which cuts the thread form at one-half has been little or no standardization of these important the thread depth. components among horological manufacturers until relatively minor diameter: the smallest diameter of a screw thread. recent times. thread depth: the distance between crest and root Tooling, in the form of taps and dies, from those measured perpendicular to the axis of the screw. pioneering factories of long ago may be found in the work thread angle: the included angle (usually 60°, but some benches of most modern repair shops. They are unused, for times 55°, or even 47° 30') between adjacent thread the most part, because original information important to their flanks. use no longer exists. In my opinion, modern tap and die sets crest: the edge or surface that joins the thread flanks often leave much to the imagination by not including enough at the largest diameter of the thread. pertinent information to make their use convenient. root: the edge or surface that joins the thread flanks at The purpose of this article is to present a method the smallest diameter of the thread. by which tap drill size may be determined for almost any tap pitch: the distance between like positions on adjacent we are likely to use in our work at the bench. thread forms measured parallel to the axis of the Figure 1 illustrates the type of thread most often screw. The formula for finding the pitch of a screw is: encountered in watch and clock restoration and repair work. The nomenclature used is defined as follows: pitch number of threads per inch (or millimeter) Conversely, the number of threads per inch (millimeter) Figure 1 is equal to: PITCH percentage of thread: the amount of effective internal thread left after tapping. As an example, if a tap drill the size of the minor diameter were used, the tap would then theoretically cut 100% threads. 60% threads are recommended for diameters smaller than 0.100 inch, and 75% for larger diameters. These percentages offer less tap breakage, present fewer interference problems between mating components, and have more than adequate strength for most I I horological applications. Et IE RAIA L. 7H/i.€A!J Considering now that we wish to determine the proper tap drill size for a tap that has undecipherable markings known only to the maker, we may proceed as follows: (1) Using an accurate micrometer, measure the major diameter of the tap thread and record this dimension. Three fluted taps may be more easily measured by lightly chucking the tap threads in a lathe collet and then measuring the collet opening after slipping the tap out. 40 Horological Times/November 1988 (2) Measure several spaces between thread crests (10 (3) Apply the following formula using either inch or spaces if possible for greater accuracy) as shown in Figure 2. metric measurement: Dividing the micrometer reading by the number of spaces gives us the pitch. Record the pitch dimension. outside diameter of tap Figure 2 - 1.299 X pitch X percentage of thread = tap drill diameter As an example, let's say that a tap has a diameter of 0.1120 inch and a pitch of 0.0250 inch. What is the correct tap drill size to obtain 75% of effective thread? 0.1120 diameter of tap - 0.0244 (1.299 x 0.0250 x .75) = 0.0876" tap drill size The nearest commercial drill size is No. 43, which has a diameter of 0.0890 inch. The above formula will allow us to return those old, but useful tools to their proper role in restoring timepieces of like vintage, as well as more modern applications. For those craftsmen who would like to delve deeper into the intriguing mysteries of screw threads, this writer recommends Machinery's Handbook by The Industrial Press, available in most public libraries. This comprehensive course is designed to equip today's watchmaker with the basic skills and understanding required to successfully service modern elec HAVE YOU HEARD? tronic watches. The course consists of the fol lowing seventeen lessons: THE Lesson 1 Theory of Magnetism Lesson 2 Bench Work with Magnets AMERICAN Lesson 3 Dry Cells: Voltage and Amperage WATCHMAKERS Lesson 4 Using a Meter to Measure Voltage INSTITUTE Lesson 5 The Theory of Electron Flow and Ohm's Law Lesson 6 Using Meters to Measure Current and Resistance Lesson 7 How Magnetism Can Generate Electricity Offers a Valuable Lesson 8 Generating Electric Pulses at Your Bench HOME STUDY COURSE: Lesson 9 Introduction to Diodes and Transistors Lesson 10 Experimenting with Diodes, Transistors, and Capacitors Lesson 11 The ESA Electronic Watch, Calibre 9158 MIC RO-ELECTRONICS Lesson 12 Electronic Principles of the Accutron FOR Lesson 13 Quartz Crystals and Electronic Reduction Lesson 14 Bench Practice on the ESA 9180 HOROLOGISTS Lesson 15 LED and LCD Solid State Watches Lesson 16 Bench Practice on the LCD Solid State Alarm Watch Lesson 17 Summary In addition to the written lessons, students will be involved in serv1c1ng two electronic watches, as well as working with concept teaching kits. AWi will provide the watches and kits. This course will prepare individuals for the AWi Certification Examination of CERTIFIED ELECTRONIC WATCH SPECIALIST. Course Price: $250.00 Time payments can be arranged with $50.00 down payment and ten successive payments of $20.00 per month. To receive your course information booklet, send a mailing label to: MICRO-ELECTRONICS COURSE FOR WATCHMAKERS HOME STUDY DEPARTMENT P.O. BOX 11011 CINCINNATI, OHIO 45211 November 1988/Horological Times 41 Thomas H. White . Growth In Strength a baby chick to grow, it must break out of its 1. Slide tapes and video programs are available for . For a plant to grow, it must compete success chapter use . fully with other plants, causing them to "move over." 2. Speakers and workshops are provided at mini For a family to grow, the youngest may well have to give up mum cost. the crib so that the new baby will have a place. Growth or 3. Each chapter is entitled to one AWI speaker per new blood requires change. Growth and change comprise year at a cost of only one half of travel expenses. life. If we, as watchmakers, are to grow and to see that Af 4. The "Association News" provides free publicity filiate Chapters be the organization that it should be by as for chapter news and activities. sisting each and every guild, we need to accept change and 5. The Annual Affiliate Chapter Achievement Award growth. is presented to the chapter who, in the judgement Having this in mind for the years to come, every of its peers, provided the best service to its mem guild has its work cut out for itself. There will be changes. bers. Help will be needed! Our priority must be the attendance 6. AWI will provide, upon request, a regional member at our guild meetings, for we should first be active in our own ship list to the chapters. guilds. If some of our members were able to provide or par 7. AWi will mail announcements of chapter-spon ticipate in the programs for our guild meetings or hold an of sored programs to all AWI members within their fice, be on committees, bring a friend to the meetings, or area. serve refreshments, then our guilds would be strong. The These are just a few of the benefits that AWI pro stronger our guilds, the stronger the Affiliate Chapter organi vides at no cost to the guild or member. The AWl's services zation would be. At our meeting this past June there were a to Affiliate Chapters are too numerous to list in this article. number of new faces present with our delegates . Along with If you are interested in more information concerning these the new faces come many new ideas! assets, drop AWi a note. It just might provide the change As the President stated in his message in September, needed for the growth in your chapter. every Affiliate Chapter has valuable assets from AWi: NEWS .. .from all around the ASSOCIATION ... NEW YORK This watch is marketed in Japan and not sold in the U.S. It On Tuesday, September 6, 1988, Scott Chou, General features a large crown to facilitate the hand winding of the Manager of the Technical Department of Hattori Corp., watch. introduced Seiko's new products to the Horological Society 3. The continuous smooth running sweep second quartz watch of New York at the Hotel Novotel. Up to this time, the sweep second hands of all quartz watches This was the first time this presentation was given had a characteristic stop-and-go-each-second action. This is a to a local AWI chapter. Scott Chou distributed live exhibit direct result of the function of the stepping motor. In Seiko's models into the audience and sketched technical drawings new model, a spiral spring and viscous regulator converts the explaining their workings on a large drawing board. motion of the sweep second from halting action to a con The three models which he introduced were: tinuous one. 1. The automatic generator watch At the conclusion of the talk, Scott Chou distributed This is a no-battery timepiece which generates its own elec literature on the new products and urged the Horological trical power. The action of a weighted gear (similar to the Society of New York membership to keep informed. He oscillating weight in a mechanical watch) turns a magnetized said, "I would not want you to send me another automatic rotor. This sets up a current in adjacent coils which is stored in generator watch with a broken-off capacitor. I have received a capacitor and, when released, powers the watch. a number of them from watch repairers who tried to replace 2. The hand-wind version of the above the capacitors with batteries." 42 Horological Times/November 1988 New Products and Literature/News in the Trade TWO TIMEPIECES KASSOY OFFERS QUARTZ GESSWEIN FALL FREE 1988 FROM SEIKO WITH A WATCH TESTER JEWELERS MAGAZINE SECURITY CATALOG NAUTICAL FLAIR Microtest, a Swiss miniaturized Gesswein has produced an 80- Mountain West A larm of Phoenix, A selection for the classically test instrument, is now available page magazine especially for the Arizona has announced its 1988 styled home, this Seiko quartz from Kassoy. This precision elec fall jewelry manufacturing season. catalog of security and alarm alarm features time with a nautical tronic tester will determine quartz From casting to finishing, products featuring over 490 items. flair. A brushed pewter-like finish analog watch problems-without Gesswein has summarized the en Th is authoritative 32-page catalog clock is set upon a sturdy wooden opening the case . Just place tire manufacturing process and contains burglar and fire alarm base . It features a white dial with the watch on the tester, turn it some of the more important prod devices that range from simple, classic Arabic numbers, luminous on, and the instrument wi ll tel l ucts to use. Products in this mag do-it-yourself kits to the most hands, a sub-second hand, and a you if the problem is with in the azine include casting kits, model sophisticated professional motion bell alarm. The model shown electronic circuit or with the step making, mold making, wax in d etectors and state-of-the-art elec below is OKG171 K, and sug ping motor. The latest state-of jecting, burnout, casting, finishing, tronics. Full of illustrations, dia gested retail is $95. The Seiko the-art components will check all tumbling, rolling mills, power grams, and valuable technical in alarm is available through the types of quartz analog movements hand 11 , jump ringer, torches, formation, it is a handy reference company's nationwide network of and watches. The Microtest (mod setting, dust collecting, polishing, to the security field. For more distributors. el BAT340) uses a 9-volt battery plating, refining, rec laim ing, clean than 17 years Mountain West has Seiko and measures 1 "x2Y. "x3Y, " . It ing, metal testing, gem testing, been meeting the security needs retails at $64.70. books, and videos. One impor of government, industry, business Contact: Kassay, 28 W. tant addition to th is magazine is es, hospitals, schools, and the 47th St., New York, NY 10036; an extensive selection of plastic security trade, as wel I as do-it toll free (800) 4-KASSOY, or in findings, ready to cast. yourselfers. NY State call (212) 719-2290. For your free copy, con For a free copy of the tact: Gesswein, P.O. Box 3998, 1988 catalog, contact: Mountain 255 Hancock Ave., Bridgeport, West Alarm, 4215 N. 16th St., CT 06605; (203) 366-5400. P.O. Box 10780, Phoenix, AZ 85064; (800) 528-6169. ...· £Y# ·- '~ " BURGLAR ALARMS Kil..,, Componcnls, Al"o....,soril's Microtest from Kassey Inspired by seafaring tradition, Seiko introduces two new nauti NEW CONCORD DELIRIUM cal styles for him and her, charac· Advanced Swiss time technology terized with an exciting compass Gesswein has turned this design, "the Toll-Free Order Line feature. An engraved bezel func world's slimmest watch," into a 800-528-6169 tions with the sun like a compass ln ~ic"k t\ri1on.i ( 60~ ) 2h J. fH5 11 true companion piece for today's BREITLING "J CLASS" to indicate general direction. The busy life. Called the Concord SPORTS WATCH compass points are etched on the Delirium, it is shown here in The ultimate sports watch-as go Id-tone bezel. gold, hand-set with 0.71 carats much at home at a cocktail Crafted in nautical red, Mountain West Alarm catalog of 32-cut Top Wesselton dia party as it is deep underwater, white, and blue, these timepieces monds. It is also available in a is the "J Class" from Breitling. have a 24-hour dial which com variety of other configurations: It features a steel case water bines nautical time with the com four sizes, in solid gold, steel resistant to a depth of 200 m, BATT-TRON IC HELPS pass design. A sailor blue-padded and gold, or all steel, all water with unidirectional rotating bezel BUILD TRAFFIC WITH calf strap is embossed with the resistant and fitted with a scratch in 1BK gold fitted with a cer HEARING AID BATTERIES same motif as the dial. The model resistant sapphire crystal. amic ring, screw-lock crown, Retail jewelers are cashing in on shown is SEBOOB. and retails at Contact Concord Watches, glare-proof crystal, and self-wind the over $70,000,000 hearing aid $295. The new Seiko Status 650 5th Ave., New York, NY ing movement. It is available battery market by stocking these Sports collection timepieces are 10019; (212) 397-7800. with leather strap or choice of batteries in addition to watch available through the company's Concord steel or gold and steel bracelet. batteries. An average hearing aid network of authorized distribu- A woman's version is also avail requires 14-20 batteries each year. tors. able. Seiko Hearing aid batteries in dial packs Contact Breitling USA, 47 of four generate repeat sales. Water, Norwalk, CT 06854; (203) Batt-Tronic Corp. offers Ray-0- 853-2141. Breitling Vac zinc-air hearing aid batteries to their retail accounts plus an informative brochure outlining facts about hearing aid batteries and interchangeabi I ity informa tion. " Batt-Tronic provides jew elers with a complete program to make them hearing aid battery experts in minutes resulting in in creased store traffic," said Harry November 1988/Horological Times 43 Hillson, president of Batt-Tronic. GIA ANNOUNCES 14TH beauty and originality of design, the country. Novick served as a For further information call or ANNUAL SCHUETZ feasibility , and effective use of member of the Executive Com write Batt-Tronic Corp, Battery JEWELRY DESIGN CONTEST materials." mittee of AWi 's Industry Advisory Park, P.O. Box 10, Orangeburg, Rules and entry blanks are now There is no limit to the Board and was Chairman of the NY 10962; (800) 431-2828 (na available from the Gemological number of entries a contestant IAB Executive Committee 1970- tionwide), NY State (800) 942- Institute of America for the 1989 may submit, although he or she 72. He was also a member and 1944. George A . Schuetz Memorial may only win in one category. served as Chairman of the Asso Fund Jewelry Design Contest. The contest entry deadline is ciate Executive Committee of The contest is open to everyone, February 28, 1989. JIDA's forerunner, the Watch Ma PREMiuM ZINC Al8 with two winners receiving $500 To receive contest rules terial and Jewelry Distributors scholarships for jewelry-related and entry blanks, write: GIA, Assn ., and was WMJDA 's 1974 training at the institution of Jewelry Manufacturing Arts Dept., " Man of the Y ear ." Herb is a their choice. 1660 Stewart St., Santa Monica, member of the Horological So Judging in the contest, CA 90404; (213) 829-2991, ext. ciety of New York, National based on the rendering of a de 311. Association of Watch and Clock sign, is in the two categories of Collectors, and recipient of per men' s jewelry or accessories, and manent member award of Florida ladies' jewelry featuring colored State Watchmakers Association. HERB NOVICK RETIRES stones. All designs must be ori Upon his retirement, Mr. FROM BULOVA ginal and not previously exhibited Novick plans to relocate in the Friends and associates of Herb in public or offered for sale . south. Novick, Director of Technical "Manufacturability is one of the Sales and Services of Bulova prime considerations of the judges Corporation, tendered him a re NEW HAMPSHIRE CLOCKS in selecting the winners," said tirement dinner with the in OF CONCORD, NH NOW Batt-Tronic GIA Jewelry Manufacturing Arts auguration of restaurant services IN OPERATION Manager Thornton Mann, "as are at the 10: 10 Restaurant that just The start-up of a new clock manu opened at Bulova's former head facturing company was announced quarters in Jackson Heights. recently by its president, Philip THE "BIARRITZ" cases. The watches are also Tributes and good wishes Vaughan. New Hampshire Clocks, FROM JUVENIA WATCHES available with gloss-polished bezel. were read from the American Inc. of Concord, NH will be From Juvenia's all-new "Biarritz" The flexible bracelet has an in Watchmakers Institute, the Jewel producing clocks in limited edi collection are these rectangular visible clasp. ry Industry Distributors Associa tions for the wholesale and retial designs for him and for her in Contact Juvenia Watches, tion, employees of B. Jadow & trades. 18K yellow gold. The diamond 62 W. 47th St., Suite 304, New Sons, and other individuals who The company was formed set trim enhances showerproof York, NY 10036; (212) 302-5940. were unable to attend. Among when General Time Corporation the presentations were a bound decided to close its Seth Thomas collection of Horological Times grandfather clock division in presented by Henry B. Fried and Boscawen, NH. All nine full a huge jar containing tens of time employees who make up thousands of used watch parts. New Hampshire Clocks worked Herb started work in 1943 for Seth Thomas. The immedi as a Material Clerk at B. Jadow, ate plans are to build medium and Inc., and after a two-year inter high end clocks for sale through ruption for service in the U.S. its factory outlet and clocks shops Navy and a series of promotions through New England. The com at Jadow, he was named Man pany is also under contract to ager of the Material Division. custom-build (private label) grand As such , he was responsible for father clocks for several clock the development of material cata shops in New England and will be logs covering regular, automatic, offering that service to others as and shock-resistant systems, and well. developed such systems for whole New Hampshire Clocks will saler and watchmaker. One of his introduce custom manufacturing main achievements was the re to all of its customers through a search and development of a per distinctive pine series of pinch petual material system for whole waisted grandfather clocks. The salers that is used as a basis for company will combine the bene the material industry today. fits of efficient productivity and Novick joined Bulova early custom design to give the cus in 1965 and was promoted to tomer a clock to suit his or her Director of Technical Sales and taste and decor at an affordable Services late that year. Th is price. Each clock is serially num division encompassed the New bered and registered. York and regional service centers, In addition to grandfather Field Training Services, Material clocks, the company will manu DATES SET FOR 1989 Sales, Case Repair Services, Ser facture wall and mantle clocks as EUROPEAN WATCH, CLOCK & numbers and by the quality of its vice Quality Audit, Technical well as selected fine wood repro JEWELLERY FAIR-BASEL 89 exhibitors, it is one of the lead Services, Service Customer Re ductions. The next European Watch, Clock ing such events worldwide. lations, and, until its sale, Watch New Hampshire · Clocks & Jewellery Fair will take place From the number of booth Master Products Division. He was manufacturing plant and factory in Basel April 12-19, 1989. This reservations recorded so far, over responsible for the development outlet are located on McGuire will be the 17th consecutive time 1,900 exhibitors from 22 coun and initiation of a network of Street in Concord, NH 03301. that Basel 89, as the European tries are expected to converge on company-owned and operated re Their telephone number is (603) Fair is also called, is held. By the Basel next April. gional service centers throughout 224-9366. 44 Horologi,cal Times/November 1988 Classified Ads REGULATIONS AND RATES Ads are payable in advance $.50 per word, $.60 per word in bold type. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are ~AMAWii~f::A1 $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first ofthe month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. (e.g. August issue closed for copy on July 1st.) The Factory service for Vi "'(!_ brograf timers and cleaners in HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 the U.S.A. (513) 661-3838 • New and Factory recondi tioned watch repair equip POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR - Bezels, ment available. I Tradesman hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., • Vibrograf timers, Watchmas Benton, IL 62812; phone: (618) 439-6995. ter timers, cleaners pur DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, I chased - traded. FINEST QUALITY,. quantity works welcome. • Products for the jeweler - CLOCK MOVEMENTS rebushed & pivots Specialize on changing dial feet positions to soldering, engraving, ultra fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: refinished. Same week service. Free UPS, fac I I sonic tanks, polishers, and KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., tory authorized. Two-year warranty. Butter microscopes in stock. Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101. (206) 623-2452 worth Clock Repair, 1715 Pearlview Ct., Muscatine, IA 52761. (319) 263-6759. For information call: Mr. Joseph D. Presti or PROFESSIONAL CLOCKMAKER seeks trade ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE accounts with Milwaukee area shops. High WE ARE FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE FOR: Mr. John J. Hager I workmanship standards, reasonable rates. Ser * VIBROGRAF/PORTESCAP vicing antique or modern clocks. During busi • TICK-0-PRINT/L&R VI BROG RAF WE SERVICE ALL MAKES OF ULTRASONICS AND OTHER ness hours phone (414) 375-3171. WATCH-RATE RECORDERS AND EQUIPMENT U.S.A. CORP. JACK PHILLIPS e ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE 24 LA GOMA AVENUE MILL VALLEY, CA 94941 504 Cherry Lane CRYSTAL FITTING--FLAT MINERAL GLASS FOR INFORMATION CALL: (415) 381-1338 Floral Park, N.Y. 11001 for quartz watches. For trade only, call or (516) 437-8700 write for price and shipping info. We pay Serving the industry with qual- return shipping. CAIN'S WATCH REPAIR, Cylinder escapements restaffed in platforms RD 2, Box 230K, Newport, PA 17074; (717) and watches. Write for shipping instructions. KEN LEESEBERG, RR 4, Box 286, P.O. Box 567-9560. ~ ~ 436, Montello, WI 53949. li\¥Yi'i'i'¥i'1f¥¥¥¥i'Y¥¥¥¥'¥~ Watch wheel cutting, repivoting and staffing. WE CAN MAKE ANY PART BALANCE STAFFS CUSTOM MADE AND CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, WE CAN RESTORE ANY WATCH FITTED-Call or write: Lucian L. Lynch & material and tools. Custom made to order or Free estimates. references on request. Co., 5910-B Loftis Rd., Hanahan, SC 29406; repair of gears, pinions and parts. Catalog expedient services ar;e provided. SASE for brochure. Tel. (803) 554-7632. $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, WATCH & CASEMAKERS, LTD. Atwater, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. 140 0th Ave., P.O. Box 1314 Highland Park, N.J. 08904 ,------Tel. 2011937-5611 : DIAL PRECISION TIME-TECH Service <11Hl rl'slorntion of Roic:\, Piaget, Patek Philippe, Vachcron-Constantin , Antique pocket watd1csa spcl'ially. I CUSTOM BALANCE STAFFS cut and fitted. REFINISHING Swiss-trained master watchmaker. Role.\ cerliric CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD Tradesman CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL Save time, money, and work re-covering QUARTZ bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor NEW SWISS QUARTZ MOVEMENTS CUSTOM mation, send business-size S.A.S.E. to: FITTED to Diamond. Gold, Antique, Senti JANDi GOGGIN MOVEMENTS mental Watches and Pocket-all sizes. Rolex, Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 Omega, Longines, LeCoultre, Girard Perregaux, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Accutron, Hamilton. Movado. Service and Quartz Conversion. L&R Varimatic III Watch Cleaning Machine WATCH ALFONSO ZAMORA, 280 Presidio Place. $475.00. L&R Mastermatic with Ultrasonic Buffalo, New York 14221 ; (716) 633-6138. Lower Unit $350.00. Two L&R Master Watch Cleaning Machines @ $7 5 .00 each. L&R Ultra BATTERIES sonic T-9 Tank $100.00. Levin Poising Tool $35 .00. K&D Staking Tool Set & Roller Re movers $175 .00. Rolltop Watchmakers Bench The Lowest Prices in Mahogany (excellent condition)-Best Offer. FREE DELIVERY-FAST SERVICE -'1~1-~ LOVE'S JEWELERS, (716) 247-7660. in the Industry Timesavers • 312-658-2266 Box469 •Algonquin, IL 60102 MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed Send $2.00 to receive our new catalog. lowest prices-as low as $2.30. 2-yr. guarantee. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free CALL US AND FIND delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. Hall OUTI TIMING MACHINES-NEW AND REFUR Clock Shop, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte. BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON NC 28205. HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865; CALL (814) 692-2285. Star Strucll Electronic Watch Service Manual & Catalog Illustrations & Instructions for measuring, 1-800-243-6144 testing, regulating and part numbers. 179 CLOCK WHEEL AND movements, over 200 pages. $49.95 . Also: 203-847-9292 PINION CUTTING Clock Movement Catalog, 250 pages, $35 .00. Fast service - Write for free Brochure THE GERMAN CLOCK INDUSTRY Sales * Service * Information Company Suppliers for mechanical watch and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes P.O. Box 1735 I, Irvine, CA 92713 St., Irving, TX 75060. {214) 986-7698 ·parts. Hard-to-get GLASS crystals for hunting and open face pocket WATCHMAKER TOOLS for sale. SASE for watches. Same day service. list. Watchmaker, 902 Scott Place, Abilene, TX 79601. Nationwide Watts 1-800-777-8962 For Sale THE BUTTNER COMPANY, INC. Karl Buttner, CMW 400 DAY DOMES: 5%'' x 11" glass, $7.50 WATCHMAKING 2312 San Mateo Place NE each, or 4 for $26, UPS included. for price EQUIPMENT AND G-S Albuquerque, NM 87110 list of 35 other glass and plastic domes, send "A watchmaker for the watchmakers" SASE to C.A. Zimmerman, P.O. Box 8973, CRYSTALS FOR SALE: Ft. Collins, CO 80525. L&R TEMPO 400 Cleaning GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE Machine ...... $1000 Help Wanted 941-D Broadway, El Cajon, CA 92021 VI BROG RAF VC 10 Cleaning PARTS AND SERVICE HEADQUARTERS Machine ...... $1COO FOR SCHATZ, KUNDO , KOMA , KERN, HAL L&R CONSOLE Cleaning CLOCK REPAIRMAN FOR PULL-TIME PO SITION--All types of work in a beautiful LER, HERMLE, NISSHINDO. MECHANICAL Machine- NEW ...... $500 QUARTZ-ELECTRONIC-CIRCUIT BOARDS clock shop in Daytona Beach, Fla. Excellent MAINSPRINGS-SUSPENSIONS SPRINGS and L&R TC 47A Tickoprint Compact climate, pleasant surroundings, and a good MOVEMENTS, ETC. Timing Machine w/MU35 opportunity for future ownership of highly Microphone ...... $750 successful sales and service business. Write or BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! phone to: H. BARTH of H&E CLOCKS, 2355 Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC L&R Electronic Demagnitizers-$25 S. Ridgewood Ave., S. Daytona, Fla. 32019; (904) 76Hl077. H.C . 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. G-S Crystals 25 C System- $750 Individual sets from 25 C-~ retail CLOCK TIMER. Regulate your clocks elec WATCHMAKER/CLOCKMAKER-Busy South tronically with the new CTI Clock Timer. All items are slightly used but in florida clock store. Send resume and address Can be used on almost any clock with mechani very good condition. Call immedia inquiries to: Carl Jackson, 1210 N.E. 163rd St., N. Miami Beach, FL 33162. cal escapement. Pendulum clocks large and tely for information. We only have small, lever or cylinder escapements, anniver a limited supply: sary clocks, etc. For information write: Can WATCHMAKER-Workers needed at all levels Tho Instruments, P.O. Box 80113, San Diego 1-404-457-9686 CA92138. ' of repair experience for high volume trade Antique Watch Co. of Atlanta work. Mechanical and quartz experience ideal. 2075 Savoy Drive Very good compensation and working con CRYSTALS G.S. 4,023 pcs., all for $402.30. Atlanta, GA 30341 ditions. Send resume only to: Parsec Enter Call Joe at (205) 793-9230 after six (6) P.M. prises, P.O. Box 195, Peoria, IL 61606. 46 Horological Times/November 1988 WATCHMAKER WANTED-Experienced in me chanical, chronograph, quartz analog. Excellent opportunity--No cap on production earnings. Benefits. National headquarters shop. Respond Watches Wanted WANTED to: Personnel, People's Jewelry Company, We Buy All Types Of P.O. Box 973, Toledo, OH 43696. Wrist and Pocket Jewelers Scrap-Any Condition. WATCHMAKER WANTED - For national Gold-filled Watchbands, watch repair center. Located in Chicago Plated Watchbands, suburb. Good starting rate and benefits. Call Silver Watch Batteries, Harry Wilkinson, (312) 448-3984, or write (Mixed acceptable-We sort free of to : True Run Service Center, 10500 South charge & we pay for mercury) west Hwy., Chicago Ridge, IL 60415. G.F. Optical, Cases, etc. GOLD-We pay up to 97% of the market price for IOK, 14K, etc. We WATCH REPAIR PERSON-Immediate posi buy filings, bench sweeps, filters, and tion available-full time. Experienced with mechanical and quartz watches. Cambridge, We desperately need for our retail buffing waste. MA. (617) 864-1163 . customers fine watches by: \~ Please call or write Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Vacheron & ~) for more information: WATCHMAKER-Be a part of a new and grow Constantin, Gubelin, Audemars Piguet, Movado, ing watchmaking service. Openings in Erie SPECIALTYMETALSREFINING CD. and Pittsburgh, PA, Boston area, Palm Beach Hamilton, E. Howard, Illinois, Elgin , Waltham, etc. IO BAY STREET area of Florida, and Texas. Must have full We are paying top prices for any high WESTPORT, CT 06880 knowledge of electric and conventional watch es. Call (412) 922-8880 or write: Jewelry Re quality, unusual or complicated pair Center, 9 Parkway Center, Suite 102 , Wrist or Pocket Watches 1-800-426-2344 Pittsburgh, PA 15220. Chronographs, Doctors Style, Moonphase, Calendars, In Connecticut call (203) 372-0481. Curvexes, Repeaters, Diamond Dials, Enamels , " We will match any legitimate offer Railroads, Military, Multi-Colors , Keywinds, and still gi1•e you o ur quick, Situations Wanted Hunting Cases, Automatons, etc. dependable service." Postage and UPS reimbursed. HIGH-GRADE WATCHMAKER SEEKING PO When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch SITION WITH PROFESSIONAL COMPANY. OUR 52nd CONSECUTIVE AD CERTIFIED ROLEX; EXPERIENCED WITH C'.111Us TollFrre 1-800-842-8625 MOST HIGH GRADES. SOME JEWELRY RE PAIR, CAN ESTIMATE AND TAKE IN RE In Texas 1-214-902-0664 PAIRS, NOT AFRAID TO SELL. CONTACT: Always prompt immediate payment! ROBERT L. VIERRA, 1414 8th AVE. SE, DECATUR, AL 35601; (205) 355-4650. Wingate's Quality Watches WANTED-Scrap and/or resellable gold jewelry P.O. Box 5976o Dallas, Texas 75229-I 76o (no sterling or gold-filled), will pay more than scrap value. HI HO CENTER JEWELERS Wanted To Buy 303 State Street, Bridgeport, CT 06604; (203) 336-5044. WANTED TO BUY: Any 16 & 18s, 17-2lj, NEED WINDING PINION to a Dietrich Gruen US pocket watch (Elgin, Waltham, Hamilton, pocket watch, 17 ligne, model UT; willing to etc.) for museum display. Will pay cash or tax purchase entire movement. Contact Gary slip. Not working OK! Dan Lee, CW, Clark's JUNGHANS CAL. 88 MATERIAL-I am seek Schaengold, 1800 Hulman Building, Dayton, Summit, PA 18411; (717) 586-3385; Sunday ing a quantity of parts for the Junghans calibre OH 45402. 12-5pm (717) 465-3448. 88 chronograph watch made in the 50s and 60s. R.A. BARNES, Sterngasse 68, D-6103, We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap Griesheim , West Germany. (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, WANTED sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour Casting Equipment/Watchmaker's Tools payment return mail! Ship insured/registered Equipment, material and crystal systems, mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, AIRCRAFT CLOCKS-ANY SIZE, TYPE, OR benches, cabinets, old broken or un 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. MAKE. Condition not important-wanted for claimed wrist and pocketwatches; watch Established 1960. Phone: (803) 722-207 3. parts. Aero material parts also. RICHARD factory pictures, displays or signs. Need NORDHAM, Box 1118, Palm Beach, FL G.F . 14K/1BK Ham ilton electric, Accu 33480. tron, S.S. or Gold Moonphase Chrono Collector needs: Patek Philippe, Cartier, Rolex, graph, Lecoultre Alarm/Futurematic, A. Vacheron & Constantin, E. Howard, Illinois, Gubelin, Lange watches, IRV BARD. Audemars, Movado, Repeaters, Keywinds, Moon WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ phase, Calendars, Railroad, Military, Hunter cases, movements. I buy entire collections, estates, AVON MET AL SERVICE, LTD. Multi-Colored Golds, and many more Wristwatches and Pocketwatches. Call TOLL FREE 1-800.235· watchmakers' inventories. Over 25 years P.O. Box 17484-(414) 351-0933 2866 or 913·383-2880 when you're ready to sell! experience of honest and reliable confidential Milwaukee, WI 53217 MILES SANDLER, Maundy International, Box 13028H, Overland Park, Kansas 66212. transactions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Beverly Hills, California 90210; (213) 826-7778 . November 1988/Horological Times 47 Dates to Remember Ad Index NOVEMBER 1988 10-14- INHORGENTA 89, Munich Trade Fair A merican Perfit ...... ' .. 4 Centre, Munich, West Germany . For more 12-Watchmakers Association of New Jersey information contact Gerald G. Kallman, Borel .. . . . • ...... 7 49th Anniversary Gala, The Westwood, Five Maple Court, Ridgewood, NJ 07450. Bowman School . ..• • . . . 2 1 Garwood, NJ. For information: Alex Kast , Phone (201) 652-7070. 54 Yale St., Nutley, NJ 07110, (201) Cas·Ker Company ...... outs ide oack cover 667-9052. APRIL 1989 Charles Cleves ...... 13 12-1 9-17th European Watch, Clock and Esslinger Com pany ..•. . inside front cover, 8 FEBRUARY 1989 Jewe lle ry Fair (Basel '89), Basel, Swit zerland. Ge m City College ••...... • •• .•. . . 25 5-8-Jewelers of America International Spring Germanow-Simon. . . • • • • ...... 17 Show, New York Hilton and Sheraton Centre hotels, New York, NY, (212) 489· AUGUST 1989 Innovative Electronics ...... • . . . 15 0023. 25-27-28th Annual lntermountain Retail Jewelm ont Corporation . . . 13 10-13- California Jewelers A ssociation Con Jewelers Convention, Su n V alley Inn , vention, Moscone Center, San Francisco, Su n Val ley, Idaho. For m ore information CA, (213) 628-3171. call (503) 889-321 3 . S. LaRose, Inc• . •.• .. . . 23 Livesay's, Inc ...... • , •. .. .. 29 L & R . , ...... 5 Maxel l .. ..•...... •.. 3 Panason ic ...... ••... .. •• ••. 11 Ray Gaber Co mpa ny ...... •....• . • 2 1 T oledo Jewelers . ... ••...... •. . .. 15 Tu mi Watch Company ...•••....••. 23 Twin City Supply ...... 19 . if you 're not doing it . . . .You Should Be ... using your AWI casemark! AMeuaH WATCHMAKERS OOJITUTI Your AWi membership card signifies that you 1988 are entitled to the many services offered by your association. However, we must have the correct This is tu Certify that information from your card to be able to serve JOSH A. DOE you most efficiently. 000 SllTH ST. ll018£RE, OH 12345 This illustration points out the important, coded information on the right side of your (t·.~ ...... -b"...;.~-_,,,.,...,,,,,,,,. ,_.._ ... membership card. Always use your AWi mem bership number when corresponding or order Membership ing from AWI. Number Certification Type of Number Certification 48 Horological Times/November 1988 Find Out For Yourself That IT PAYS TO ADVERTISE! AWi's promotion department has prepared a series of professional advertisements designed to help you sell your products and services to your community. Simply call your local newspaper, magazine, or service publi cation and ask them to add your name, address, and telephone number in the area provided. These ads mean business for you! NOTE: Ad layouts in the kits are approximately 50% larger than reduced versions used in this advertisement. 1. Professional *2. Expert CLOCK REPAIRING CLOCK REPAIR •CHIME •STRIKE &RESTORATION! •WALL •MANTEL Wi:- sell and scrvicl' a complc1e line of clocks ~r:mdfa1her: mamcl: wall; carriage clocks. etc •GRANDFATHER CLOCKS WI.' Tl'Slorl' an1i4ues as well Call us for l'Xperl clock informal ion NOW NEW• • Pick Up ~md Delivery AW i CERTIFIED CLOCKMAKER Service for Large Clocks ··"-.. ,~ . AVAILABLE l .J/::. ~ Our clockmakeu are mem~r .,. or the SERIES "F" ~.t'il-:I.~ AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTI· •·"'"~· Member of the • TUTE-- your assunncc of quali1 y crah$· [~~§· AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE manship in every dc1ail ':...... --; Your ..siuru~ce o l profeuional • '':,:::::;;:'_.....-. Qu ahly u rviu • STORE NAME AIJLJRESS & PHONE NUMBER Store Name. Address & Phone Number THE AWi EMBLEM IS YOUR ASSURANCE OF 4. Fine Clock Repair Service! ... Out df.IC'J;,,,a\cn IHt.' ff'l~mflnl OJ ,,., ·•llL'RI· ~,,.,. ~ ~·: !i,1~//~:;;,~11~;~,-~1!~7;;: J:1~~ ~ lrdlroal mf111111i:;111ft, and otl1n "1"ri~J . 1u ~-·- lrtlP ut ~pc.'1 Tn,tt nifw:i1,. r/~(flft'ttJ 41ult4t' and tffid~nrly WE SPECIALIZE IN SALES AND SERVICE *3 Expert FOR. CLOCKS AND WATCHES Store Name. Address & Phone Number CLOCK REPAIR &RESTORATION! We sell and service a complete line or clock.~ f$£en~bk ~randr.athe r ; mantel; wall: c:arri:a~e clocks, etc AVAILABLE• We restore :antiques as well Call us for exper1 clock information Clock Repair IN 5. PROOFSHEETS (;) AVAILABLE• (For any offset TO printing service) STORE NAME AWi MEMBERS Your Me'-'la1.:r Here ADDRESS & PHONE NUMBER • • ONLY .~ ~'."-~; Amt l"i i;:~:~; ho~~~=n lnsL. r. ~J ~ Th e American Wa rchmak· • -. ~: ers lnstiture (AWi) pro PLEASE ORDER ADS BY NUMBER vides detailed rechnical information and services which help us to as sure vou of professional qualitv repain. REPRODUCTION PROOFS - $1.50 each STOR.E NAM E, AODR.ESS. AND PHONE NUMBER. *(NOTE: Ads 2 & 3 Available ONLY to Certified Members.) Specify Ad Series "F" AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE and Order From: AWi P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 jcu1. _ _ __ I ~ ... "... J OYC 0 E WATCH PAR GENUINE OYSTER CRY TAl No 6482 T T SS OT FO RNITURES 0 IGJNALES Le L1 cle - Suisse Made n Switzerland f:'. O MADE IN U.S.A ·-