Official Organ of the Irish Tourist Association

VoL. XIV. No. 10. ]l:LY, 1939. .Complimentary

KiIliney Bay, near Dublin, with (from left) Bray Head and the Little and Big Sugarloaves (the Silver Spears). iRISH TRA VEL July, 1939

FISHGUARD to Leave Paddington §*5.55 p.m. Every Tues.. Thur~. and Sat. (§ July 4th/Sept. 23rd. 6.55 p.m.)

HT Leave ~uston *6.5 p.m. LIVERPOOL to BELFAST Leave Euston ·6.5 p.m. SaiI10.15p.m. Nightly (Sun. ex.) GLASGOW to BELFAST Direct. Sail from Glasgow 10 p.ll. t Nightly (Sundays ex.)

GLASGOW to DUBLIN Direct. Mon. Wed. Sat. 5.15 p.m. via Greenock. Fridays at 1 p.ll

GLASGOW to DERRY via Greenock. Every Monday. Wednesaay. Friday & Saturday

I t Saturdays 10.30 p.ID. /

BANK "~~H.~~ELAND0 Visitors to Dublin invariably make their way to Clerys-which has gained widespread fame as one FACILITIES FOR TRAVELLERS of the most progressive and beautiful Department Stores in Europe. Here is always to be seen a really AT representativp. disnlayof Ireland's leading products- Head OMce: COLLEGE GREEN,DUBLIN FINE mISH LINENS, REAL IRISH LACES, IRISH HOME SPUNS, IRISH POPLINS, BELFAST .. CORK .. DERBY BELLEEK CHINA, IRISH MARBLE SOUVENIR. AND 100 TOWNS THROUGHOUT IRBLAND: Large lJlSPUry In Irish Pavilion WORLD'S FAIR, NEW YORK EVERY DESORIPTION OF FOREIGN EXOHANGE Olel'1Js pay hi(lhes! SC'I'Id for beauMfu7 G1dde B()ok­ BU8INESS TRANSACTED ON ARRIVAL OF LINERS price for the Dollar. .. Seeing 1I10dern Dublin"-Free BY DAY OR NIGHT AT OOBH (QUEENSTOWN) AND GALWAY DOOKS. CLERY &·Co., Ltd., O'Connell St., DUBLIN July, 1939 IRISH TRA VEL

SUBSCRIPTION : Wbolesale from Ibe I 5'· PER .ANNUM. Irlsb Tourist Assoelatlon POSI Free. and from l Eason & SOD. Ltd. COPIES FREE IRISH TO ALL MEMBERS Retail from OF THE all Newsapnts and ASSOCIATION AND from the OF ITS ASSOCIATE Irish Tourist Association. DEPARTMENT. Ptlce Bd.

TRAVELOr~an Q A~<;ociatlon, Otficill1. t the Irish Tourist Dublin

VOL. XIV JULY, 1939. No. 10 --======-===0

YOU MAY ENJOY THE IRISH MOUNTAINS WITHOUT BREAKING YOUR NECK

is from Dr. R. Lloyd Praeger' "IN these motoring days, when the contingent on an "in-and-out-the­ ideal of so many holiday-makers window" sort of momentum. Foreword to Jlountaineering in is to roar through the country But that is all ·too abstru e and Ireland, by C. W. Wall. (Dublin­ The Irish Tourist Association, I .). at 50 miles an hour "- I) begins anyhow there i still one holiday the preface to one of the latest left which eliminates the necessity "To quot~ Dr. Praeger again, little books. for analysis ince there is ample .1.Jr. Wall s chapters will appeal leisure for equanimity en route. You to the ordinary person who likes a Are the motorists ever indignant may not get far but your mind will good tramp 7.£·ithout wantinu 10 risll at this sort of thing? There u ed travel illimitable space. There will his neck over it." Believe it or to be a religious sect somewhere in be no roaring on the way unless believe it not, that sentence carries the wilder part of the world who your favourite corn reacts into a the clue to more than a mountaineer­ were known as the Roarers, from protest. That, of course, is the ing holiday in Ireland. There is no the trenuousness of their shouted hanks' Mare holiday. Cheap, risk o~ neck or happiness over there. prayers to. Heaven. They were sociable, health-giving and not p hll1 and down dale life goes at monomaniacs, of cour e, and the undignified, with a man's body the ideal pace, and now that this imputation of a kind of monomania erect all the while and not caged book lists and describes the mountain to many of our drivers on holiday behind its combustion engine gather­ routes so admirably, another lure seems an ominous one. It opens ing fat, and his lower limbs gradually ha been added to Irish vacation. up the whole field of holiday going into desuetude.* D. L. KELLEHER exploration and makes us doubt This preliminary argumentative in "Coming Events." whether we really ought not to amble is in keeping with the subject. * But the motorist also has a uood analyse our pleasures a little more That sentence quoted above in time in Ireland.-Ed. "Col~~ing closely and not make our raptures dispraise of so many holiday-makers Events "). '

Principal Contents .filly Big Irish Events Page 1 Mot.or Cycling. (Dublin "100 ") We Spcnt a \\'cek in Ireland Calendar National ChampIonship. Phoenix By British .4nglel's 246-2·j,i Park, Dublin. Haces \\'cek in Galway 1'19 .. JULY _. .. 191' 3.5,7. Bowb (ehweppcs Cup- enior By Sean ](enllY 2·W -. nIL wo. ... SAT. Leaguc Competition). Dublin. Xotes and Xews of Irish Tourist -•• It • • )t 1 8. Motoring (Leinster Trophy Inter- Interest .... 251 t 3 5 6 7 8 national Car Raee). Tallaght Clonmacnois, on the Shannon .. County Dublin. ' By P. C. Jlo//oy 25:l 9 10 11 1t 13 14 15 18-20. Golf (Open Championships of "·('''·ca~tle. Ten ;\1inutcs to the Jungle 16 17 18 19 to t1 tI Ireland). Co. Down. By 'ean C. llealy 2'3.3 IB 211. Hacing (Iri,h Oak,). 'urragh ~!'(, 15 t6 t7 t8 19 Count,· Kildare. ' Curiosities Around Ireland 2;'7 211, 21. .\gricl;ltural and Horse Show Dublin\ (;rcat 11or,,' Show 2GB Clonlllel, Tipperary. . 1 \\'cnt hI' i\lotor-Ilike to Climb ~.). .\nnual SUl1l111Cr Show. ~ayalL, Croagh ['alrick ;\Icalh. By John C. ]JoyJ/l' 2(;0-2(jI EVENTS DURING MONTH. 2G tu ,\ ug. .J-. Gill[ (Open \\'eek). HJ)~slarl' Tile Irish Theat.rc. Hy" Ultt)mll!" 202 Pattern", Fairs, Fei""l'anna, (;ala", Strand, \\'exford. H,l(lio Eircann for J ul) 207 l{"g

ELL! we have been to Ireland with the A.T.A. House where the corks popped merrily between speeches. W What a holiday! What a week of hard and ~o, not speeches, but an intermittent chorus of" Here's glorious sport! to all of us !" "A reel. gradley do !" as we should Wet and dry fly, spinning, dapping, trolling, ledges, say in Lancashire. float, swimming-a glossary on angling terms is needed Lancashire, Yorkshire, Birmingham, Coventry, to describe it. Over half a ton of fish-including an London (we were a motley crew) began fo drop their unexpected salmon which went away with a hundred yards of line and half a rod. .

We Set Out. SUMMING UP OUR WEEK'S EXPERIENCES. At the outset, several of our tourists arrived at Central station, Manchester, in a pony chaise loaded Largest fish-Trout 2! lbs.; Pil~e 20 lbs.; Bream with ground bait and other impedimenta. This was 7t lbs.; Perch 2 lbs. picturesque but quite unnecessary; for Ireland is We were twenty in the party. replete with potatoes, bran, meal, flour and everything We were welcome everywhere. else necessary to bring the fish "on feed." But we We all over-ate ourselves. were glad of the large supply of gentles and worms we took. We all slept serenely. Arrived at Liverpool, an omnibus took us to the We all increased in weight. steamer where we turned into our bunks at once. We all got Fercely st·mburnt. The famous and charming" Alfie," Lord Mayor of We caught 1,500 lbs. offish. Dublin, joined us at breakfast on arrival, together with We en.1oyed every 'minute. various Irish officials. Our greeting was almost We are all longing to go again to Ireland with overwhelming in its hospitality and kindness. But we were I__ .~~T.A. to realise that this is only typical of what we were to experience wherever we went local accents and uncon 'ciou -ly adopt a touch of Irish on Iri h soil. brogue. We were received ,,:ith open arms and ~e wondered why our two countnes could ever entertam "Here's to all of us." any difference of opinion on anything at all, at all. V\'e are repaired, fraternally Off again to our rendezvous, Ballinasloe, ninety miles arm in arm, to the Mansion from Dublin, every mile exposing waters and scenery, July, 1939 IRISH TRAVEL

which kept us all talking in a perfect babel. The gorse had never looked so golden nor the grass so green. For few of us had never been to Ireland before. Why? Our lancUords, and apparently half the town, greeted us. Our fame had gone before us! But this was nothing to the reputation we have left behind us. Over half a ton of fish, 1,500 lbs. to be exact, and caught on tackle " the like and the fine sort of which was never seen before." After dinner, a gargantuan feast of many-we went this way and that to explore the river uck which flows through the town, a fine wicl.e stream rather reminiscent of the Thames below Oxford but with alternating deeps and shallows. Assembled at supper we had a regular anglers' pow­ wow and made up our plans for the morrow. We found the river and tributary stream abnormally low and clear with long grassweed trailing the surface where the trout were rising. Monday and Tuesday. On Monday morning some took boat up stream and Dapping on Lough Corrib down, spinning for pike and fishing dry fly for trout with fair success. The rest of the party wandered far e\'ery time. And fight! It is amazing! One in every afield doing the same and vi iting other A.T.A. hotels. three weighed some seven pounds and more. They In short we were exploring and gathering as much had finished spawning and were in wonderful condition. information as pos ible for those who are to follow in The Shannon watershed produces bream up to 9 Our footsteps. and 10 lbs. in July and they are found in incredible Tuesday accounted for 34 pike up to IQ lbs., and 22 numbers. trout from a half to two pounds in weight. Two parties went to Finea dapping on Lake heelan. There were Thursday and Friday. twenty other boats on the lake but they only got eight Thursday was a repetition and our catch was trout among them, as the may-fly wa not yet doing prodigious. One local superstition was exploded, its share. till one of us had the mingled fortune of namely that if a large fi h breaks you, he tells the others. hooking a five or six pound trout which rushed off with For one of us caught the same bream, which had escaped fifty yards of line and broke him .round a rock, and ~ ten minutes before, still with six feet of gut trailing twenty pound pike which succumbed to a wagtaIl from his mouth. minnow on his light caster and Felton "cross wind" Friday we all went far afield, to Shannon Bridge and after an hour's fight. The rest of the part~ accounted other places; some of us not fishing at all but taking for some fine pike and perch. The trout III the lake trips round the countryside. Jn fact during the whole generally run from three to four pounds. week s~veral only visited the river an hour or so a day. There IS so much to see and so many friendly folk to We Got Among the Bream. talk to. Wednesday was our field day: we "got among the On the Fr~day one of us had secretly baited up, near bream!" We shall never forget that day. None of hannon Bndge, a deep hole which he had known us will. Only 83 fish, but they averaged 5 lbs. apiec~ ! previously, intending to have an hour or two with the On rare occasions in England we may catch more m perch after an afternoon with trout and pike. But he number, but in individual weight the Irish lad.s have it was to be disappointed. For there sat three of his pals who had found the spot and had accounted for two hundredweight of fish which they weighed and returned to the water higher up stream. "There's nowt left but snigs!" " Au Revoir," on Saturday. . Sa~urday was mostly ~evoted to packing up and blddmg a reluctant au revmr to the many friends we had made. It was a terrific send off. The street was c~owded. We organised two" sing-songs" during Our VI it, two regular Ir~sh night full of fun and frolic. So now we are savmg t p for our return visit later in the year. For we are all determined to hurry back as soon as possible to one or other of the dozen A.T.A. centre where, we are assured the fish are even more plentiful, larger, stronger, grander; the accommodation and ~he food even .better; the people more kindly the gIrlS more beautIful. We. don't. be~ieve it possible But we shall make a personal mvestIgatIOn as soon and On one of Connemara's lakes as often as we can. 247 IRISH TRA VEL July, 1939 IComingto Ireland Stay at the Leading Hotel in the Glorious West- EGLINTON HOTEL SALTHILL GALWAY Phone: SALTHILL 25.

'With 62 B<>drooms, H. & C. 'Yater all room. . Spacious Dining-room and I"oungcs. ce th<.' large Ship. Loung<>, with Promenade Deck, and home-mad!' Rugs \\ith Scene. of Connemara, etc. Fully Hccn. ed. Fr<>e Garage and Porous hard Tennis COurtH for Guests. PropTict'ress: MRS. S. EMERSON.

GALWAY Telephone: Galway 28 LYDON'S The Savoy Cinema RESTAURANT FOR SUPREME COMFORT AND ENTERTAINMENT Morning Cotfee :: Afternoon Teas Hot and Cold Luncheons Our JULY Programmes include: TOO HOT TO HANDLE Ices, Minerals, Chocolates and Cigarettes MARIE ANTOINETTE SWEETHEARTS DAILY 5-Course LUNCH 2/6 THREE LOVES HAS NANCY BOYS' TOWN THE CITADEL TOURIST PARTIES, ETC. CATERED FOR. SHINING HOUR Sea.ting Accommodation, 200 Opon from !l a.m. to 11.30 p.m., including unday. and a MIDNIGHT MATINEE on each Galway Race night Po)' e.l)('ellent jood and service SCf Note Addross: Elltraneo:- at 'll/or]f'1'ate 'rates, 1'18ft the avoy a e I Nntral and 'fIUJst ('omjo)'table 5 SHOP STREET 'Phone 143 July. 1939 IRISH TRA VEL THE GALWAY RACES' West of Ireland's Great Sporting Week BIG MEETINGS ON WEDNESDAY 2nd and THURSDAY 3rd AUGUST

ACE week in Galway. What By SEAN KENNY and enjoyment which invariably glamour that phrase conjures prevail at this pleasant reunion of R up ! This year, the Galway and the rail approaching the stand the sport loving people of Galway. Races are being held on the second has been extended to below the The meeting was first instituted and third of August and entries for starting-point for the Galway Plate, by the members of the Galway the two days have, to use an for which the stake this year will Blazers Hunt the most famous pack American cliche, reached an "all of foxhounds in the whole realm be over £1,000. of hunting lore. Then came the time high "-in simple language, It is interesting to add that since time when a few sporting gentlemen a record breaking figure. For the the present committee took over ~ast took the matter in hands to place three months a famous Galway the management of Galway races the meeting on its proper plane. ftrm of contractors have been busily a quarter of a century ago, over engaged in erecting a new modern Captain Wilson Lynch who gave the £40,000 has been expended on roof stand at the famous Ballybrit land on which the course is situate improvements. Councillor Jos. helped financially and with' the Course. This is but one of the Young is chairman of the committee, assistance of several others including numerous improvements upon which and the other eight members are: the race committee has entered Mr. Hubert Davis (who rode Tom ~r. Daniel Comyn, LL.D.; AId. and the total cost of the improve­ Tit, the first winner of the Galway Joseph F. Costello, the ~1ayor; ments is in the neighbourhood of Dr. D. V. 1Ionis, Mr. Christopher Plate), the meeting advanced by £5,000. Kerin, Oranmore; 11r. M. T. leaps and bounds. To-day it is one of the greatest steeplechase Improvements. Donnellan, Mr. Jeremiah O'Sullivan, Mr. T. McDermott Kelly, M.R.C.V.S. meetings in Ireland. The car park leading to the Athenry, and Dr. Michael Horses and Riders. enclosure has been extended con­ McDonogh. Mr. J. Gavin is the siderably. and will now afford secretary. Some splendid horses have won accommodation for 4,000 vehiclesl the Galway Plate and some of the while the enclosure itself has been Great Steeplechase. best riders both professional and extended to a quarter of a mile. There is no need to hark back on amateur have ridden successfully The 60 yard square paddock has the glorious sporting traditions of over the intricate course at Ballybrit. been moved back 60 yards, whilst this famous gathering, not only of Some of the fences are very the totalisator has been moved the Tribes and their descendants formidable, particularly the regula­ about 20 yards, and new concrete but of the sportsmen and the sports­ tion. It takes a clever horse to get betting stands have been built women from the whole of Ireland around at the pace they go without parallel to it. In addition to the who will wend their way across the a fall. Tipperary Boy won the enormously increased accommoda­ Shannon to join scenes of revelry (Continued overl£aj) tion thus afforded in the enclosure, paths and a considerable area around READY FOR THE RACES the two stands have been laid in concrete, so that conditions will be much more pleasant even in the worst weather. A novel innovation is a ladie ' park, which has been built at the Galway end, with a rock garden in ~, the centre, flower-beds, seats, and ..,," :.. ,_ -_ !--_.-- a cocktail bar. ~II;;5z-··!II'·· ~ Four new turnstiles have been ...... "~': !!!!!!.I!:~II'III1IilII;IIIIl1~'~I:~::::i~11 erected lmder a concrete entrance, .' "I'.": 'Ill 11:"1" 1'1 · ....1 a new ticket office has been buil1., """'1'., d' . I "Ii ,r 'I' together with a new water tank to t. 'Ill"h'lllIl • .' supply the jockeys' rooms. There "'''"i) is a three-way exit from the car park. A twelve-foot concrete wall ltas been erected around the enlarged enclosure, trees have been planted, The New Stand adjoining the old one at the Galway Races course at BalIybrlt. IR/5H TRAVEL July, 1939

Galway Plate on three different the Galway Plate twice and was Carnival. occasions, a feat that has never third at the third attempt. He was Socially, Galway adopts the spirit been equalled since. In his first also trained by Ussher. He was the of carnival for the week. Visitors two races he was ridden by Tommy best horse that ever won at Galway can cool off in the evenings by Moran but in his last victory he and was killed accidentally while taking a bus ride to althill an.d was ridden by that great jockey, being schooled at Brackenstown. bathing in the waters of the AtlantIc Terry Kavanagh. The name of that, ever fresh and invigorating, Ussher is synonymous with Galway This year's Plate promises more lave the shores of althill, Galway's and Mr. Harry Ussher steered Ash­ excitement than ever. Amongst seaside suburb. At night there is brooke to victory. Mr. Ussher was the big field will be found all the dancing at the Pavilion, althill or in the greatest trainer and the be t crack horses in Ireland to-day. the covered m

BE READY FOR G.ll.W_J Y RAC1';S Have your Dance Frocks, Dress SUits, etc., CLE~ NED by-- EIRE HOTEL The GALWAY CLEANERS UPPER SALTHILL CROSS ST. ~NE-DAYSERiIICE GALWAY GALWAY 11 O'NEILL'S HOTEL and RESTAURANT I Tel. 47 EYRE STREET GALWAY (ofT Eyre Square) :! millS. frem Railway Station. E:\tra accommodation rc·cently con~iructcd. Can now seat lOO persollS comfortably. Hot and Cold Baths. BO'1ts meets Steamers and Trains. ON J:3EA lHWK'l'. BjiJtjlDE GULfi' Special Terms for Tourists and Excursion Parties. LINKS AND BA'l'llING POOLS I ~~===~~=== -= 40 Bedrooms, Modernly Curran's Hotel Furnished with O'Dearest Fully Licensed Matt. H. & C. all Bed­ rooms. Ice Crearr. Parlour Eyre Square .. Galway

.Fully Licensed. B1iS stolJS at door. Recently Renovated. ew Lounge Bar. Up-to-Date. El ctric Light throughout. Free Garage. Terms Moderate. Apply MANAGERESS. MRS. K. BIRMINGHAM, Propr.

Coiffeur de Dames

CLONMACNOIS. MAISON CARR I A new book on Clonmacnoi (visited by hundreds of THE MAGNET ll tourists each year) has just been written by Brendan EGLlNTON STREET (O~~~g.E) GALWAY _I Molloy- Guide to the Ruins of Clonmacnois-and is "--- published at sixpence. (ee page 253 of this is ue). WARD'S PRIVATE HOTEL 1\ CROAGH PATRICK. HOT AND COLD WATER IN BEDROOMS unday, July 30th, is Garland Sunday, the clay of Lig~~~:;ge ;:It:~i;;:on~t~;::;OOking great National Pilgrimage to Croagh Palrirk. (Sec 11 Electric Sea pages 260 and 261 of lhi issue).

250 July, 1939 IRISH TRAVEL NOTES AND NEWS £70 for Anglers .. L. Russell Muirhead .... Holidays on Horseback

£70 for Anglers. IRISH WINDOW IN BOSTON £70 in cash prizes will be distributed to lucky anglers who catch the biggest fi h in Ireland, this year. The LT.A. has put up a sum of £50 towards a prize fund for coarse fishing competitions among members of the Anglers' Tourist Association who will operate the whole scheme and who have added a further £20 to the fund, bringing it up to a total of £70. The final date for notification of catches is November 1st, 1939 and full particulars of the competitions can be had from the Anglers' Tourist Association, Spear Chambers, Spear Street, Manchester. By the way, on pages 246 amI. 247 of this number of Ir£sh Travel, we publish the comment of the twenty British Angler who fished our rivers during Whitsuntide this year (under the auspice of the A.T.A.). They're coming back again!

Southern Ireland for Holidays.

l 0 le s an authority than Mr. L. Russell .:\IuiIhead, Editor of the far-famed Muirhead Guides (his father From a photograph of the Cunard White Star" Irish Window" founded them and Guide books have been in the family display ;n their Boston Offices, U.S. A. during tile last fortnight in for fifty years) thinks Ireland a grand place for holidays. "Uay. The word" I REL El ND" is a" cut-out" and stands to To quote direct from the Cover of all the, sixpenny the front ofthe window near the glass (coloured green). To the left Penguin Guides, " he regards Southern Ireland, Central IS a fisherman, to the rigllt a horseman. The large outline map of Ireland is ofthe pictorial type made by the well known Ernest France and Portugal as the best places for spending Dudley Chase, which shows small typical scenic views against holt'days outside England." each. of the plaCf's indicated 011 the map. What more can one say? Here indeed is much in little: a world of praise in one lacon,ic sentence. Holidays on Horseback. Gala at Arklow. Fresh from their recent successe in Hungary, Norway Sweden and England, "Holidays on Horseback" August Bank Holiday, Monday, 7th, is the day of are, this year, invading Ireland for the first time. A the Arklow Gala, at which the one mile men's swimming really attractive leaflet issued by Centropa Tours, Ltd., championship of Ireland will be decided. Arklow has Mayfair Place, Piccadilly, London, gives full details held many successful Galas in past years and no ef.fort of this very novel type of holiday which combines both is being spared to make the coming one full of attractIOns sport and travel. for visitors. It is organised and will be operated by the The tour in Ireland is a two weeks' one, from Dublin wimming Section of the Arklow Coursing Club. back to Dublin at an all-in cost of 25 2 guineas. The riding tarts from Adare on the second day, and the Island Name for Each Bedroom. route includes visits to Killarney and Kerry, Limerick, Quite a remarkable feature about Ashford Castle Tipperary and the Air Base at Foyne. Approximately (the new Sports Hotel in Connemara which its owners 25 miles will be ridden daily, every night being spent hope to have functioning early this month) is that all under ~ different roof. T~e accommodation is personally the big bedrooms in the castle are named after the supervIsed by the Orgamzers and the party will be in i lands in Lough Corrib. One is called Dringeen, charge of a gentleman-leader who knows every bit of another Tober, another Cleenilaun, another Illaunree, the country intimately. and so on, each room being thus connected with the historic legends and happenings which ga\'e the islands Here and There. their ancient musical names. These names will be August Irish Travel (next month) will be the 1939 retained (as will also the greater portion of the castle Pictorial ouvenir Number. furniture), when the astle be omes a Hotel. * ** It is of interest that the late King George \' of "Coming Events," from which we use Mr. D. L. England shot woodcock at Ashford in 1907 when, as Kelleher's ~elightful ~i~tle essays each month, (see Prince of Wales, he visited the demesne. His party page 245), IS the offICIal organ of The Travel and killed 90 brace of 'cock in one day and he himself Indll,tnal Deyelopment Association of Great Britain declared Ashford the best woodcock centre in the world. and Ireland. IRISH TRAVEL

I

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An Ancient Irish University City CLONMACNOIS in County Offaly Founded by st. Ciaran in 549 A.D. LO MAC. OIS (The Meadow of the Descendants ?f os), the burial place of the nobility of Ireland C IS about fourteen miles south of Athlone on the Offaly bank of the river Shannon, and bounded on the east and south by sand hills which form part of the *Eascar Riada. It was in this lonely place that Ciaran ~'lac an t-Saoir founded his second and last monastery, ID the year 549. Coming by Water. The approach by water to Clonmacnois is to be pre­ AT CLONMACNOIS ferred, the great advantage of travelling by boat being Inside the boundary wall of the cemetery are the ~hat you may extend your journey to Clonfert which IS about twenty miles from Athlone; and at Clonfert ruins of ten churches and in the sacristy of the cathedral can be seen the ancient doorwav of St. Brendan's are ' housed' some of the burial slabs of the 8th, 9th, Monastery. • loth, nth and 12th centuries. Some Landmarks. Twelfth Century Church. About seven or eight minutes' walk from the east . The first object of interest to be seen at Clonmacnois gate, along the Pilgrim's Road, the visitor comes on IS ~he old Norman Castle built by John De Grey, Lord the beautiful ruin known as the Nuns' Church, built ChIef Justice of Ireland in the year 1210. in the year of n68 by Princess Devorgilla, wife of ~o the east .of the castle is .O'Rorke's Tower (904), O'Rorke, Prince of Brefny. In n58 while O'Rorke whIch has lost ItS topmost portIOn. According to Irish was on pilgrimage his wife eloped with her former ~istorians this tower was completed by Abbot Malone lover, Dermot Mac ~ILlrrough, King of l.einster, who was, ~n II30, but two storeys of it were knocked by lightning however, forced to restore her, "and the feud thus In II35. e tablished in n66 led Mac Mz{rrough to seek the help of •" E(,scar Riada," singular gravel hills or ridges which Henry I I, and thus prepared the way for the invasion i ntersect Ireland front enst to west. of Ireland by Strongbow." PATRICK C. )IOLLOY.

WORLD FAIR -1939 - NEW YORK :L'elephone: SALTffiLL 40 Combine a visit to the I World Fair, New York with a " Continental" holi­ ~ .. --~ --- ..· day afloat and enjoy the finest France has to offer in ROCKLAND .'l ••• ~ I~... Luxury, Cuisine and Service. -- ;;~ ::::~ ·I' ' ··...... li,:=r .."1 I - NEW YORK HOTEL ':::::::E~;!:::!'~ by the great luxury liner .. ~ ~ II~ "- b~ •••..•... ':~-,.,.II;1.... "Champlain," 28.124 Tons G. ~ :::::::~,:",":: SALTHILL .. GALWAY 11a=-~ ••••••• ~':~!~~~,:~ Sailing Aug. 11. Sept. 17. .. ;1Ih &iIlJ .••••::: 1:::1..11" '. If SOUTHAMPTON-NEW YORK :!I!.II .:;;#;;:::::11 ~~:::::f,,1'1,," .."• WEEKLY "'n •••••••r n "I I.. .•••••• tt" ...... :i" III I:••••• I" ••·.;;;llr1tRI :•• SOUTHAMPTON ::11" ••••••• 1 t~!~ E::1l ::21 J! 'I !? :~. ~ - WEST INDlES ,.:n •••••• , ~ Prominent Situation on Sea Front. 11'11 'IH L.I! 1Cq, !I ._oZ; MONTHLY I1 :::.":1...... I"'! . E· Beside Golf Link and Bathing -r Pool. Fully Licensed. H. and C. Running Water in all bedrooms. Modernly Furnh,hcd throughout. Personal Supervision. 1. T. A.

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MUNSTER & LEINSTER BANK, LIMITED. )(

PRINCIPAL HEAD OFFICE: DUBLIN 66, South Mall, OFFICE: Cork. 7-10, Dame St.

Capital Subscribed £1,875,000. Capital Paid-Up .. 750,000. Reserve Fund 1,000,000. Deposits, etc. 24,184,000. Having as many as 129 Branches and 86 Sub-Branches and being represented in every County in Ireland the Munster & Leinster Bank Ltd. is 'placed~in ·an advantageous position to afford banking facilities of every description. It specialises-in Foreign Exchange transactions and Executor and Trustee business and has Agents and Correspondentsrthroughout the World.

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254 july, 1939 IRISH TRA VEL TEN MINUTES TO THE JUNGLE

FROM THE HEART OF DUBLIN CITY

By SEAN C. HEALY

Dublin's Zoo is the second oldest " Sitting pretty, with trunk up, for luck, at the in the world Dublin Zoo."

VI ITED the Dublin Zoological Phoenix Park. Even if there were the globe and getting them to live Gardens in the hope of hearing no strange animals or exotic birds happily together in the same Zoo? I interesting tales of wild animal to attract the visitor, the natural "Healthy animals are contented life and of exciting encounters with beauty of the Gardens would be a animals," is the Dublin Zoo's motto. e caped wolves; I even toyed with great attraction in itself. A big Every effort is made to give the the idea of asking the "man in feature is the magnificent lake inmates ufficient room and induce charge" to let me stroke the p~"Y nestling in a deep w00ded hollow them to exerci e: there are no ur tweek the whiskers of a WIld and there are many lawns and cramped cages to break the hearts jungle cat. If I have nothing grassy slopes where one may wander of animals accustomed to roam for sensational to record, blame Charhe in the cool shade of beautiful trees. their food. and Mistre s Susy-but more of The Lion House Via Charlie. them anon. ADMISSION The "Zoo," as it is popularly To give even a rough outline of called, is a large railed enclosure TO THE the number and types of live exhibits within the area of Dublin's famous ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS that are to be seen " at every turn" would fill a large book; we must PHOENIX PARK content ourseh'es to hit just a few of the high pots. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Charlie and Sus)' (of the opening Thursday, Friday - 1 ­ paragraph) are tW0 chimpanzees. Saturday, Sunday and all Public As a matter of in.erest, Charlie is Holidays - - 6d. an old pal of mine. About two year ago I arri"ed at the Zoo with Children in Charge of Adults a ffi'wie camera and Charlie wa Half price. taken from hi cage for the purpose of being "shot." Lacking all desire to change his comfortable How to Live Happily. qua:ters for the ~hrill of Hollywood, This time I visited the Zoo in a he Just looked Inexpressibly bored critical mood and immediately J while ... 'veral feet of valuable film wa impressed with the idea that raced through the camera gate. here was no mere menagerie, no The Lion House was to be the.?' \ ulgar exhibit of wild animal life. first port of call on my present visit, Desc~ndant of" Nigeria," a once famous Dublin What is the secret of gathering but I stopped to shake hands with lion and ancestress of many now in Dublin Zoo. wild animals from every corner of (Please Bee page 265) 255 I R IS HTRA VEL July, I<)30 HOTE L IV ANHOE, AS OTHERS SEE US HARCOURT STREET, DUBLIN. ~ (A few doors from Stephen's Green). Hot and Cold Water In every Bedroom. Central g. Electric LIft Rnd Fires. Night Porter. A.A., R.I.A.C. e. Telegrams: .. SATIS.II!D, DuaLIN," Telephone' (VISITORS 611211 For the First Time.... D. MoCAUGHEY, Proprietor. . l O••ICI