and History 19.03 – 28.03 2015

Sinai Rosefinch at Petra

I was looking forward to my fifth trip to Jordan and I wasn’t disappointed. Jordan is a country with surprisingly varied terrain and stunningly beautiful landscapes. From the deserts of Rum and the Red rocks of Petra to the Mediterranean climate of the North and the tropical climate of the South, it has it all. The end of March is the time of the massive migration of birds moving from to their breeding grounds in the north and coincides with the breeding season of the resident species. Hundreds of Steppe buzzards and Black kites make spectacular kettles in the sky, while swallows, wagtails, pipits and warblers are taking hide in every bush and garden on the ground.

This year’s late winter slowed down the raptor passage and we had very low numbers of eagles and storks (only three Steppe eagles and small flock of White storks), but the sites of dozens of wagtails, pipits and warblers (sometimes in every bush and tree) in the Eastern desert and Aqaba were a fantastic proof of spring migration taking place at the moment. Another highlights were the sightings of some of the resident species in their breeding display – Hoopoe larks, Desert Wheatears, Temminck’s and Bar-tailed larks in the Eastern desert; a fantastic pair of Hooded wheatears and Striolated buntings in , White-crowned and Mourning wheatears, Blackstarts and Green bee-eaters in the Dead sea area; Syrian serins at Dana; Sinai rosefinches and Sand partridges in Petra and – these all made this trip an unforgettable experience. Day 1. 19.03 The group arrives on schedule at Queen Alia International airport, where we meet our guide Ahmad and our driver Mahmud and we head straight to Crystal hotel in for our first night in Jordan.

Day 2. 20.03 Zarqa river – Jerash - Aljun castle - Jordan valley. In the morning we drove to Zarqa river to the north of Amman – a lavish green valley with olive groves and Mediterranean climate. Here we encountered White spectacled bulbul, Laughing doves, Great tit and the East Mediterranean race of Jay (atricapillus). In the river we saw European kingfisher and White-breasted kingfisher. Cetti’s warbler was calling in the shrubs and a few minitues later the first Palestine come into view along with Gracefull prinia. We saw our first Steppe buzzards overhead and had a brief view of a Long legged buzzard. Two Black storks were flying north. Next we head towards Dibbin forest – the last stronghold of the native Alepo pines. On the way we stop by a small limestone hill with scattered vegetation to look for Long-billed pipits, but they prove to be elusive this time. Jerash – the ancient Roman city in the north is our next stop and Ahmad gave us a very interesting and informative tour on the culture and history of this well-preserved archeological site. Amongst the numerous temples and churches from different periods we saw Black-eared and Isabeline wheatear, Blue rock thrush, Gracefull prinia, Crested larks and a lovely Masked shrike. Lunch is in a nearby Lebanese restaurant where we have a taste of the delicious local cuisine. Short-toed eagle and a sparrowhawk remind us that migration is on.

Jerash After lunch we headed further north to the medieval Ajlun castle, built on a hill overlooking the surrounding green valleys. This is usually a good raptor watch point, however we only saw a couple of Lesser kestrels flying and Green finch and Great tit in the surrounding shruns. Just when we were about to leave we heard a pecker calling – Syrian woodpecker. In the afternoon we had a spectacular drive down into Jordan valley, where we made a quick stop at Karamah dam, as it was taken over by locals picnicking out for the weekend. Despite the crowds we managed to see Great white, Cattle and Little egrets, Grey herons, Black-headed gulls, Green sandpiper, Shoveler and a single Shelduck. The shores were dotted with Spur-winged plovers and small flock of Red-throated pipits swiftly flew overhead. In the agricultural fields around we saw Southern grey shrike. We caught the last sunlight at Shuna reservoir where even more local folks were picnicking, but a single Snipe got our intention. It was already dark when we headed back to Amman for dinner in the hotel. Day 3. 21.03 Qasr Amra – Azraq wetlands – Shaumari. We leave the capital and head to the flint desert in the east of Jordan. Soon the dry and stony terrain of the Eastern desert replaces the extensive agricultural landscape around Amman. Our first leg-stretching stop was Qasr Qarana, where besides a couple of Lesser kestrel and a Black kite we didn’t see much. The next stop was not far – Qasr Amra proved more attractive for birds with the two bush-lined wadis surrounding it. In the scattered vegetation we saw Redstarts, Lesser Whitethroat, Black caps, Chiffchaff and Willow warbler, Tree and Water pipit, Crested lark, Hoopoe, a Nightingale and a Rock thrush. Masked shrike was catching flies from the low branches of a wild pistachio tree. A short venture in the flat deserts around it’s been award us with nice view of Red-Rumped wheatear. Ahmad showed us around Qasr Amra, listed in Unesco’s World heritage list for it’s 7th century frescoes and unique architecture. On the way out, another wheatear drew our attention. Closer observation revealed a Cyprus pied wheatear. Our next stop was Azraq Wetland Reserve. This has once been the biggest oasis in the Arabian desert and a magnet for birds both in winter and during spring/autumn migration. Now just a shadow of it’s former glory it is a designated reserve, maintained by the Royal Society for Protection of Nature (RSCN) – the Jordanian nature conservation organization that takes care of the important reserves in the country. While having our packed lunches by small reedy pool we saw a nice Mustached warbler and several White-cheeked bulbuls – two of the most common birds in the reserve. Later on we walked around the manmade pools and had a Siberian stonechat and it’s European cousin making it really good to compare both species. On the ground we had Bluethroats (both red and white spotted varieties)feeding, Wrynecks, Crested larks and Spanish sparrows. From the small hide in the eastern end we had a fantastic view of Water rail, male and female Little crake and more Mustached warblers. Bluethroat at Azraq Wetlands In the late afternoon we headed to Shaumari – a small desert reserve, home of Arabian oryx and Arabian wild Ass, which unfortunately was currently closed for maintenance . We birdwatched the edges of the reserve, where we saw a variety of wheatears, including Desert, Eastern black-eared, Isabeline and Northern. Two Teminck’s larks showed up. The winds started to pick up and we decided to move round the other side of the reserve, where we found dozens of White and Yellow wagtails, including Blue and Black-headed varieties. The wind kept the birds low in the desert shrubs and it is getting very difficult for birdwatching. However, at the end of the small field with the wagtails we found another Cyprus wheatear.

Cyprus Wheatear and Siberian stonechat at Shaumari We then checked in at the cozy Azraq Eco Lodge – a converted ex-British military hospital. Dinner was buffet with delicious local specialties cooked by local ladies. Day 4. 22.03 Al Uwainid reservoir – As Safawi. We woke up in 5.30 in the morning to find that the wind had become seriously strong. Despite that we went for pre- breakfast walk around Shaumari reserve. Soon after we stopped the bus, we managed to find a pair of Hoopoe larks. They gave excellent views chasing each other and displaying beautifully. More Teminck’s larks are found in the same area, as well as Desert wheatears. On the way back to the bus we saw a single Bar-tailed lark. Round the other side we found another Cyprus wheatear - it seemed to be the peak of their migration. Nurtured with good breakfast at the Eco Lodge, we headed to Al Uwainid reservoir south of Azraq. The open desert was very windy, but we bravely stood up in the gale and managed to see one of or target species here - Greater sand plover in nice summer . Other birds in the area include - Kentish plovers, Green sandpiper, Teminck and Little stints, Green shank, Ringed plover, Redshank, Ruff and a flock of Shovelers in the water. As we were making our way to the far end of the lake we saw a male Desert wheatear and a couple of Greater short-toed lark and more Greater sand plover. The wind was then making birdwatching practically impossible and we returned to the Eco lodge for a nap and lunch. In the afternoon we drove north towards the basalt desert to look for an enigmatic – the black morph of Mourning wheatear. It hasn’t been seen recently, so it’s statute is near (if not) extinct, but it is worth to try and the landscape of the basalt desert is stunning. Soon after we got off the bus, we see another interesting bird of the basalt desert – the black morph of the desert lark (Ammomanes deserti annae). We had good views of four birds altogether. Other interesting local residents were Bar-tailed larks of which we see good numbers. At the end of our walk, we see a couple of Trumpeter finches, but there is no sign of Basalt wheatears. The unusually cold weather that day (strong and cold winds), made us to shorten our trip and soon we headed back towards Azraq. Just before we reached the town we noticed a big area, that looks like a huge water body made us taking a detour and checking it out. Naturally, it appeared to be big area of green houses, surrounded by trees. Once we got here, we decided to explore. With the help of Ahmad we were allowed to enter one of the private enclosures with olive trees and allotments. It was a bit quiet birdwise, but the poplars at the end were housing dozens of Black kite and Steppe buzzar, obviously preparing to roost for the night.

Bar-tailed lark and Desert lark (annae) at As Safawi It is time to go back to the Eco Lodge for another excellent buffet dinner with local meals. Day 5. 23.03 Wadi Hidan – Dead Sea Panorama. The wind had dropped during the night and at 5.30 AM we met up to pay another visit to the desert area around Shaumari, mainly to check out the field in front of the entrance of the reserve for any newly arrived migrants. It is completely different weather today – warm and sunny with just a light breeze. When we arrived the migration was in full swing. There were birds everywhere around, most numerous were the White and Yellow wagtail, Lesser whitethroat, Chiffchaff and Willow warbler, Tree pipit, Redstart and Stonechat, Northern wheatear and some Isabeline and Black-eared wheatera. We all felt that we could spend the whole day there, watching the migrants, but we had to leave. Before departure a pair of Desert finches flew in into the fenced area of the reserve, but unfortunately the group did not manage to see them and they dissapeared. We drove for 1.30 hours to Wadi Hidan south of Amman where we had our picnic lunches near a small rocky gorge. Shorts stroll along, produced Sand partridge – a pair was peeking in and out of their nest site and further down Little owl was roosting on a cliff ledge. At the end of the gorge down by the river, the shrubs hid laughing doves and bulbuls, Common and Black redstart, Palestine sunbird and a Blackstart. We then took a spectacular road through the Moab mountains towards the Dead sea. The veiws were dramatic and we entered a new avifaunal region. Soon we saw the first Tristram starling, White-crowned wheater and more Blackstart (one particularly attractive sitting on a roadsign Blackstart beside the bus) Fan-tailed ravens were flying overhead. We stopped to take photos from the viewpoint over the Dead sea. The bridges past the Dead sea Panoramic complex were quiet and we headed towards the five star Holiday Inn on the Dead sea coast for a dip and fantastic dinner, with plenty of food to choose from. Day 6. 24.03 Wadi Mujib – Fifa reserve – Dana. The early morning walk around the hotel produced 5 wandering night herons, White-breasted kingfisher and several Eastern Olivaceous warblers. The former tamarisk wood is now cleared for development of new hotels and it is pretty much birdless. Breakfast was very good and after picking up our packed lunches, we set off to Wadi Mujib – one of the reserves managed by RSCN and home of last Nubian Ibex. This is also one of the best places to see Hooded Wheatear. The reserve appears to be under renovation with new visitors center being build and it is closed for visitors. However, we decided to try to get the most out of its surroundings. From the bridge we watched Pale crag martins and Fan tailed ravens patrolling the sky overhead. Tristram starlings sound the area with their bizarre whistling calls. Suddenly, our attention was drawn by a buntingy call from the rocks above – Striolated bunting, well camouflaged in the rocky terrain. Soon a second one appeared and everybody had a really good view in the scopes. The small woody area in front of the army check point was packed with migrants, especially Eastern Bonelli’s warbler being most numerous, as well as the common Chiffchaffs and Lesser whitethroat. On the other side of the road there was a Masked shrike hunting and a Little green bee-eater made a brief appearance. A short stroll up the reserve proved to be an excellent idea. As soon as we gained some height the first wheatear to see, appeared to be a fantastic male Hooded Wheatear (almost mistaken for a Mourning ;)) Soon the female joined and both displayed beautifully. Striolated bunting call was heard and seen by some members of the group. There was not much else to be seen in the area and scanning for ibex was in vein, but the two star birds will keep us happy for the rest of the morning.

Tristram starlings and Little green bee-eater at Al Mujib At noon we drove to the recently designated Fifa reserve south of Dead sea, where two Little green bee-eaters nest by the roadside, while Southern grey shrikes hunt from the electric wires. In the tamarisks we searched for Dead sea sparrows, but instead we came across a pair of Namaqua doves, Indian silverbills, Bluethroat as well as not very cooperative Rufous bush robin. Later we saw a noisy family of Arabian babblers. Arabian babbler at Fifa We found some shade for lunch and some of us scattered in the small wood behind where we find dozens of Eastern olivaceous warblers Green bee-eaters and a family of Stone curlews.

After lunch we took the scenic road to Dana through the Southern Rift margins, stopping at a dramatic viewpoint to enjoy dozens of Black kites and Fan-tailed ravens flying literally few meters above us.

Black kites and Fan-tailed raven We arrive at Dana in the late afternoon and head straight to Bara forest to look for the local specialty - Syrian serin. Green finche, Chaffinche and Goldfinche wer the first birds that we encountered here. Then we heard the trilling calls of the serin and headed towards the call. It took us some time to locate the first one, although they seemed to be around. While trying to get better views of this flighty birds, sub adult Golden eagle came out in the sky. Most of the birds that we saw were flying or calling from within the canopies. Soon we found out why – they were foraging on the ground in a small rocky valley behind. Here we had a feast for the eyes and have excellent views of more than 20 birds.

Syrian serin at Dana Concluding that this has been the best day so far, we headed for Petra where we would spend the next two nights. Day 7. 25.03 Petra. Today is the cultural highlight of the trip. We meet up leisurely at 8 AM to follow Ahmad to a journey through history. It’s beyond words to describe the magnificence of the ancient city carved in the rock by the Nabataeans in 1st century BC. We followed the shady Siq to the entrance of the canyon and felt like in a set of Indiana Jones movie when we came across the iconic Treasury. Here Ahmad gave us a ten minute break, which we fulfilled with finding two female Sinai Rosefinch. The Sinai Rosefinch is one of the iconic birds of Jordan and Petra is one the best places to see it. The cultural tour continued and among the tombs and temples we found Mourning wheatear, Blue rock thrush, Blackstarts, Black-eared wheatears, Desert larks and the star of the day – the first male rosefinch. Before lunch Ahmad took us off the bitten tracks to a local Bedouin living in a cave inside Petra. He is the only person being granted a permit from the king to live in the historic Nabataean site. From the natural terrace of his home we drink Bedouin tea and watch Steppe buzzards migrating over the mountains of Petra. Sand partridges nest in the surrounding cliffs and we can hear them calling before one of them comes out in view.

Steppe buzzard above the Treasury, Petra. Lunch is a buffet in a restaurant in the so-called Basin – the lowest point of Petra. The afternoon is free, but everyone decides to tackle the eight hundred steps to the Monastery – the highest point of Petra and not only the best raptor watch point in the area, but also the best place to see Sinai rosefinches up close. We meet again for dinner in Petra palace hotel to share our experiences of the day. Most have had seen Sinai rosefinches either at the Monastery or on the way to or from it. Unfortunately not many birds of prey were seen, apart from couple of Short-toed eagles and the usual Black kites and Steppe buzzards. The birds seem to have had flown higher, because of the hot day.

The Monastery, Petra. It’s been a long day, but it is not finished yet. After dinner and doing the checklists we assemble again in order to go to Little Petra for Hume’s owls. I had some local knowledge of potential locations for this enigmatic owl and it was worth trying. Almost everyone was up for it and off we went. We arrive at Little Petra at dark and try several potential spots but with no avail. Recordings do not help either. However at one of the spots my torch captures glittering eyes and further investigation reveals wildcat behind them – small reconciliation for the Hume’s owl. Day 8. 26.03 Wadi Rum – Aqaba. We set off at 7.30 and after a brief stop for photography from the hills above Petra, we join the Kings way which takes us to 1600m at Shara highlands. At a brief stops at some wheat fields we find Isabeline wheatears and Crested larks and Mahmud our driver spots two Chukars, but no Calandra larks this time. The road takes us down to the stunning landscapes of the Rum desert, where we meet our driver and guide Ali, who is going to take us deep in the desert. On the way we stop briefly at Wadi Rum visitors’ center to admire “The seven pillars of wisdom” – an impressive group of rock towers, marking the entry to the desert. By a leaking pipe, there are few Chiffchaffs and Lesser whitethroats, a Redstart, Tristram starlings, Desert larks and a couple of White-crowned wheatears.

Redstart and White-crowned wheatear at Wadi rum Ali takes us to some cliffs in the desert, where a small natural well in the rock can be seen. There isn’t much water in the desert and naturally the birds are attracted to places like that. Soon we see a couple of Brown-necked ravens, Scrub warbler is calling from the small shrubs around. Sinai rosefinches are everywhere. A small walk around reveals more rosefinches and at least four Striolated buntings, with two Cretzmarz bunting among them and we flush four Sand partridges.

We have lunch in a Bedouin camp in the desert. It is much cooler in the huge camel wool tent, where we eat hummus, salads and the barbequed chicken, accompanied with excellent Bedouin style tea. After lunch we head deeper in the desert to look for Pharaoh Eagle owl. We go to a cave, where it has been regularly seen roosting, Wadi Rum but with no luck this time. However we catch up with a nice Scrub warbler, Sinai rosefinches and some migrants in the surrounding scrub – a Nightingale, Lesser whitethroats and Cretzmarz bunting.

In the afternoon we leave the desert and drive to Aqaba – Jordan’s only access to the sea. The drive takes us more than usual because of traffic – it is the beginning of the weekend and Jordanians flee from the cities to hit the beaches of Red sea. It is almost dark when we stop at the South beach, where we see Black-headed and Lesser black backed gulls, but no sign of the local White-eyed gulls. House crows and Rose ringed parakeets are a sign that we now have entered in new climatic zone. It is time to go to the hotel for check-in and dinner. Day 9. We meet at 5.15 for bre-breakfast walk to the beachfront gardens. The early hour doesn’t seem to be a problem for the local holidaymakers. The public beach is crowded with people, who chat, drink coffee, smoke hookahs, listen to loud oriental music and all seem to look very interested in six foreigners with scopes and cameras. Evereryone is very friendly though and despite the little loud music we did pretty good bird wise. At the harbour we have good views of two White-eyed gulls. A big group of Slender-billed gulls was feeding in the water not far from us and a nice Gull- billed tern made a quick appearance. The gardens behind were packed up with migrants with wagtails of all sorts and races being most numerous, with a single Citrine among them. Eastern Bonelli’s warblers, Chiffchafs and Lesser whitethroats were present in every bush and tree, Redstarts and Tree pipits, two Wrynecks, Hoopoes, Masked shrikes and Nightingale, all those accompanied by the local House crows and Rose-ringed parakeets. Reluctantly we leave for breakfast. After breakfast we check-out and head for the Aqaba Bird Observatory with Steppe buzzards constantly streaming from the south-east. We enter to find out the sewage pools fenced, but luckily find a way to enter. A group of gulls on the far side draws our Slender-billed gulls at Aqaba bird observatory attention and closer inspection reveals fuscus and heuglini Lesser black-backed gulls, Caspian gull and four Armenian gulls among Slender and Black-headed gulls. Short walk around reveals Green shanks and Wood sandpiper, Temminck’s and Little stints, two Collared pratincoles and few Ringed plovers. From the small hide in the south corner we observe Intensive Steppe buzzard migration with several Black kites among them and two early Honey buzzards. On the west side a group of egrets causes a bit of excitement, but the suspiciously looking smaller one turns out to be immature Cattle egret. At lunchtime the temperatures are hitting 39 degrees Celsius and we decide to retreat to the air- cooled bus. For lunch we stop at small acacia grove to look for Arabian warblers, but the only birds of interest in the increasing heat are Green bee-eaters, Masked shrike, Redstarts, Desert larks, Lesser whitethroats and Eastern Olivatious warblers. Further north in Wadi Fidan we stop at another suitable place for these elusive Sylvia’s, but we find Southern Grey shrike, three Arabian babblers and lots of Lesser whitethroats. A bigger Sylvia turned out to be a Rupell’s warbler – a little consolation for the lack of Arabian warblers. The rest of the day we spent driving to Amman for our final night in Jordan, passing familiar places on the shores of Dead sea.

Desert lark in Wadi Araba Day 10. We meet early morning and Mahmud takes us to the airport where we say goodbye to each other. I want to thank Maurice, Lynsey, Arthur, Mary and Beth for the good company, patience, and birding skills. We went through pretty tough birding conditions, especially in the Eastern desert, but no one gave up and everyone was very enthusiastic all the time. Special thanks to Ahmad, who gave us all the special insights of Jordan’s cultural life and historic sites and to Mahmud for his excellent driving.

Itinerary and weather. Weather was dry, as one would expect in that part of the world. We did not have any rain, despite the late and wet winter the country experienced this year. Most of the days it was sunny and warm with temperatures averaging between18 – 28 degrees Celsius during the day and cooler (9 Degrees Celsius in the mornings and the evenings in the desert environments). In the Eastern desert we had two days with strong winds, which felt colder and made birding a bit challenging. 19.03 London – Amman. Transfer to the hotel in Amman. 20.03 9 – 22 degrees Celsius. Overcast with sunny spells. Birding around Zarqa river, visit Jerash and Ajlub Castle, drive through Jordan valley and stop at Karamah dam and Shuna dam.Overnight in Amman 21.03 11 – 16 degrees Celsius. Sunny but windy. Depart Amman and stop at Qasr Karana, Qasr Amra, lunch at Azraq wetlands, afternoon visit of Shaumari reserve. Overnight in Azrac Eco lodge. 22.03 9 – 17 degrees Celsius. Very strong wind, partially sunny. Early visit to Shaumari, morning visit at Al Uwainid reservoir, lunch in Azraq Eco lodge, afternoon drive to As Safawi in the basalt desert, Azraq agricultural fields in the late afternoon. Overnight in Azraq Eco lodge. 23.03 11 – 26 degrees Celsius. Warm and sunny with light breeze. Early visit to Shaumari, Wadi Hidan before lunch, drive to Dead sea in the afternoon. Overnight at Holiday Inn Dead sea resort. 24.03 19 – 27 degrees Celsius. Hot and sunny. Mujib reserve in the morning, Fifa reserve at lunch, Dana in the afternoon. Overnight at Petra. 25.03 19 – 24 degrees Celsius. Sunny in the morning with some clouds in the afternoon. Full day in Petra. Evening visit to Little Petra for Hume’s owl. Overnight in Petra. 26.03 16 – 30 degrees Celsius. Hot and sunny. Brief stop at Shara highlands at 1650 m, late morning visit to Wadi Rum, lunch in the desert, afternoon drive to Aqaba for overnight. 27.03 22-39 degrees Celsius. Hot and sunny. Early morning visit to the beachside gardens, late morning in Aqaba bird ovservatory, lunch stop in Wadi Araba and afternoon visit to Wadi Fidan. Overnight in Amman 28.03 Amman – London.