A grey area in the law has allowed poker houses to operate in Hong Kong for years, but a recent police raid has raised the stakes for players and their hosts. Ben Sin talks to insiders to find out what went down, what the future holds for the city’s burgeoning poker scene, and just who’s holding the aces

Location: Thanks to Miusik Member’s Club 18 timeout.com.hk May 12 – 25 2010 The Raid turn of a card can make or break fortunes. But that it’s a police raid, not unlike the ones he’s It is 2am on a Saturday morning in Central, Chan, a skilled player who studies the game, seen in local 1990s gambling movies. But he and Stanley Street is unusually quiet. On the is well aware of this. He has made all the right doesn’t panic. What we’re doing isn’t illegal. second floor of a commercial building nearly moves: a few timely bluffs here, a big lay-down As the bartenders and manager feverishly 40 people are gathered together in a dimly there. I’ve got this table under control, he thinks talk to one officer, the others approach the lit, windowless space. Known as The Blue to himself as he sits in front of his chips. tables. “Stand up and away from the tables,” Room, the former office no longer houses yells one officer in Cantonese. He repeats the computer terminals or printers. The coffee order again, this time in English. Chan stands machine and the fax have long been switched “Most successful poker up, still confident that he’s on the right side of off and rehoused, while the day slaves have players are smart. They’ve the law. From the looks on the other players’ been replaced by night owls. And instead of faces, it seems most feel the same way. functional desks and chairs, six oval-shaped got MBAs and went to Ivy Then it happens. A player in the high stakes tables with blue felt are spread across the corner walks over to the huddle of officers and floor, each one guarded by an attractive girl League schools” begins to talk to them intently. Something’s holding a deck of cards in finely manicured not right. Conspiracy hangs in the air like a hands. Money is still being won and lost, and Chan then hears a commotion at the other nasty fog. What the hell is this guy doing? Chan deals struck – but no-holds barred gaming end of the room, in the high-stakes corner, thinks. Wait, is he one of them? has replaced rigid commerce. And tonight, the where minimum opening bets (called “blinds”) stakes are about to get even higher. are set at HK$100 and most players have chip The Aftermath The game on hand is No Limit Texas stacks worth tens of thousands. He dismisses By Saturday afternoon, news of what Hold’em, and one of the hottest players of the the brouhaha as a regular tantrum thrown by happened earlier had spread like wildfire night is 29-year-old investment banker Patrick a sore loser. But the rumblings grow louder – through the local poker playing circles – a Chan, who sat down three hours earlier with enough to stop the action on all tables. mostly English-speaking professional crowd. HK$3,000 in chips and by this stage has more Before he knows it there is a pounding at People were shocked. than tripled his stack. Of course, with the the door, and six uniformed police officers have “An undercover cop posed as a player at mercurial nature of the no limit game, a bad barged through. Chan recognises immediately The Blue Room?” was the astonished response u

May 12 – 25 2010 timeout.com.hk 19 occasion or B: the game is not the middle of the table for all to see) – has played by any person in charge been around since the early years of the 20th of, managing or involved in century. To succeed in this game, players the operation.” must have strong mathematical and analytical Bryan Huang Without getting skills, along with discipline, patience, guts embroiled in the legal and, of course, luck. The relatively high jargon, poker houses skill level required to win consistently has operate in Hong Kong propelled Hold’em to revered status in gaming under a grey area of circles – for the past 40 years, it’s been the the law – they bill “main event” of the biggest and most famous themselves as private in the world, the World member’s clubs where Series of Poker. The Las Vegas-based annual customers gather for tournament had a total prize pool of US$61 social activities like million last year, with the winner taking home eating, drinking... over US$8.5 million alone. This year, the and poker. “These places WSOP is expecting over 8,000 players with a operate under the same concept prize pool of over US$80 million – the biggest as mahjong houses,” says a lawyer – and payout in any single event. frequent player at the Hong Kong Poker It wasn’t always this way. In the 1990s from most House – who requested anonymity. “These the game was as niche and secretive as the who heard the venues can fit into legal parameters if they’re silver screen portrayed. But over the past news. What was more operating as a food and beverage venue that decade, due to expanded television coverage surprising, to everyone, is that a makes no profit from the games.” of the WSOP, the public became aware that few blocks away on Hollywood Road, a more So why was The Blue Room raided? Most poker is a game of high skill and unlike other famous venue known as Hong Kong Poker seem to agree that they strayed too casino games. This helped poker find its place House survived the night undisturbed. far towards the black end of the grey area. among western mainstream culture. Today, Chan’s phone rang nonstop throughout “The Blue Room wasn’t raided because of poker programmes air on primetime television the afternoon and he hadn’t slept. He was still poker not being allowed,” says 29-year-old in the US and Europe, and professional u bothered by what had happened. His entire Sailesh Verma, a local resident who gave up stack of chips, worth over HK$10,000, had his job teaching English several years ago been confiscated and he faced potential further to become a professional poker player. “It’s questioning; police took his contact details because they didn’t follow private club and said they would be in touch. But he knew protocols. They had no he couldn’t complain. At least he was allowed club license, they didn’t to go home, while over a dozen other players have a strict members- and staff were taken into custody. Still, he was only rule, which only bit unsure what exactly had happened that night. them in the ass because the undercover cop was able to The Cause just walk in and play.” The Hong Kong Police declined to comment Verma offers perhaps on the case in detail to Time Out Hong Kong, the most important clue of instead offering this official statement: “On all. “The biggest thing is March 13, Central Police squad arrested 15 that the law states that any men and nine women, aged 21 to 53, at a person running the games commercial building on Stanley Street. Of cannot make profits off of those arrested, 13 men and two women have them, and the owners of been charged with violating laws of the Hong The Blue Room were regular Kong Gambling Ordinance.” players themselves.” Many believe the raid was an isolated Scott, who plays at both incident and wouldn’t affect the poker scene in the HKPH and Blue Room Hong Kong. Kelly Flynn, Managing Director has a similar take: “The Blue of the Hong Kong Poker House, says the raid Room simply wasn’t following initially scared players for a few days, but now the rules.” things are back to normal. “Poker in Hong Kong isn’t illegal,” says Andrew Scott, CEO The History of -based World Gaming Magazine. Texas Hold’em is a big deal. “I have read and reread through the Hong This particular form of poker Kong Gambling Ordinance many times over – where players try to make the and there are allowances for poker to happen best five-card hand by using a in certain situations.” combination of their two hole Indeed, the Hong Kong Gambling cards (cards that are face-down) Ordinance clearly states: “Gaming is lawful and five community if the game is one in which dice, dominoes, cards (cards that mahjong, tin kau tiles, or playing cards are are opened used and A: the game is played on a social face-up in 20 timeout.com.hk May 12 – 25 2010 May 12 – 25 2010 timeout.com.hk 21 players have become household names. And being tracked. People ain’t going to stop, they’ll may prove to be a daunting task, there is some with the emergence of Macau as one of the just turn underground.” precedent. “ is broadcasting poker in world’s top gambling spots, it was only a Scott concurs with the sentiment. “Trying primetime already,” he says. “So we’ve got matter of time before the most celebrated to stamp out poker completely will just lead people there being exposed to the game. We’re card game of all made its way here. The first to illegal underground games,” he says. A not just looking at Macau, but all of Asia.” Macau poker room opened in 2007 at the poker player of 23 years, Scott says lack Elly Lai, publisher of newly launched Grand Waldo casino (it has since moved to the of understanding of the game in the local Macau magazine Poker King, agrees Grand Lisboa), and several more poker rooms culture for has led to the stigma. “The reality that promoting poker is necessary to get at the Wynn, Venetian, and StarWorld, have is poker is a socialised form of entertainment “mainstream acceptance”. She says the process since opened. for people all around the world,” he says. has already made big progress. “Our magazine Ironically, the game made its way to Hong “We are not talking backroom gambling is named after a Hong Kong movie of the Kong before Macau. “Because of Hong Kong’s with seedy characters like in the movies. same name,” says Lai. “Both the movie and the high expat community, the game actually The players that play nightly in Hong Kong magazine are sponsored by StarWorld casino reached here first, before all of Asia,” says are investment bankers and lawyers and as a way of raising awareness for the game.” Mike Jones, an expat who was part of a Hong educated professionals. It is a safe, controlled Poker King, a star-studded comedy Kong poker meet-up group – one that has environment, where players want to get revolving around the lives of two professional been around years before Macau opened their together for a game.” poker players in Macau, was unlike the poker room doors. “Initially, the games were previous gambling films that were so popular played by mostly expats at mahjong houses in during the 90s. Director Ching Hing-ka said Causeway Bay,” Jones explains. “The game has “In five years the biggest in a press conference last year that he took really grown in recent years, spreading to the away the fantastical elements that were so local audience.” Jones never thought about the poker tournaments will be prominent in the older Chow Yun-fat and possibility of a police raid on the meets. “Why in Macau, not Vegas” Stephen Chow films because he wanted to would I?” he says. “We were at a big mahjong stress the skill factor of poker. Despite a house with other locals, only instead of playing critical mauling, the movie was a moderate box mahjong we were playing cards. Hell, the local Verma, who claims to make HK$300,000 office hit, and seemed to have accomplished tai tais play much higher stakes than us.” Jones a month from poker winnings, says despite the goal of introducing the game to local feels that the emergence of dedicated poker his success he can’t tell his family back in players. A karaoke lounge in Causeway Bay venues such HKPH and The Blue Room have India what he really does for a living. “They known as Miusik started holding poker nights helped to spread the game to a wider audience. wouldn’t understand,” he says. “It’s a shame. last year – even going as far as naming poker Poker is a sport everywhere except here.” But tournaments after the movie. The Growth if Macau has its way, that will soon change. Macau’s poker rooms are seeing increased The Hong Kong Jockey Club has a monopoly traffic and interest. Last September, the APPT on all gambling in the city. Supposedly. The The Macau Scene Macau Summer Poker Festival at the Grand reality is that gambling takes place all over According to David Jung, Regional Director Lisboa attracted 426 players from 46 countries. the city every single night. These poker games of the Asia Pacific Poker Tour, poker in Hong With each player forking out over are no different from the mahjong games at Kong is still a niche game. For it to be accepted HK$40,000 to enter u Chinese restaurants, dice games at bars, bets in mainstream society it must be promoted made at billiard venues, or other card games and advertised, an area in which Macau poker that take place inside private clubs. rooms have the upper hand. Chris Lee, a 40-year-old who learned the Jung and the APPT have been attempting game last year on trips to Macau, reckons the to work out deals which would televise police are unfairly singling out poker due to the tournaments. “The poker craze in the their unfamiliarity with the game. “I know for US was almost exclusively linked to TV a fact they play card games, including poker, coverage,” he says. Although getting at private expat clubs like the American Club. poker on Hong Kong or Macau television Hell, the Hong Kong club has a ‘bridge room’ that’s strictly for gambling,” says Lee. “You think the police care about that?” He says the rules The Blue Room broke were “minor” and the raid was “excessive.” He adds: “We have people trying to legitimatise the game and they’re

Sailesh Verma

22 timeout.com.hk May 12 – 25 2010 May 12 – 25 2010 timeout.com.hk 23 the tournament, the combined HK$16 million his first meal, most Hongkongers are getting marketing. “The players who play regularly prize pool was the largest for a poker game ready to leave work. At 8pm, he heads to one at the HKPH are all successful professionals. in the history of Asia. It’s a figure that still of the various poker venues in the city and They’ve got MBAs and went to Ivy League pales in comparison to poker tournaments in begins his day. He says the local game is more schools.” Las Vegas, but many insiders believe it’s just a for socialising and practice though, since he But not everyone is created equal, and for matter of time before these figures swell to US considers the stakes – he plays the HK$50-$100 these skilled professionals to continue making proportions. game, which requires a minimum buy-in of their kind of dough, there must be losers. Joey “I think in five years the biggest poker HK$5,000 and can see swings in the tens of Lam is one. A 26-year-old Chinese-American tournaments will be in Macau, not Vegas,” thousands – to be low. who moved to Hong Kong last year, he started says Mike Kim, a Korean-American who was “The real money is in Macau,” he says. frequenting the poker venues to satisfy his itch. responsible for opening the first legalised Each weekend, he brings HK$200,000 in cash “I used to play in home games with my friends poker room in in 2008. Dubbed “the over and plays at the big game – one in which back in San Francisco,” he says. “I didn’t have Godfather of Hold’em” in Korea, Kim now players sit down with over HK$50,000 in chips any friends here who played so I went to the makes frequent trips to Macau to check out the – at the Lisboa. poker houses.” poker scene. Only Lam, perhaps foolishly, doesn’t calculate the fact that the stakes at the poker The Professionals “We have people trying houses are considerably higher. “I am a loose Although the game is mostly played on social player who bets and calls a lot,” he says, occasions, a small group of poker players to legitimatise the game explaining his style of play (“loose player” in Hong Kong and Macau are considered and they’re being tracked. in poker terms means one who rarely folds professionals. These players make most, if and plays every hand until the end). “When I not all, of their income from poker winnings. People ain’t going to was playing with friends over US$40, I didn’t Unlike the stereotype professional gamblers feel the financial hit. But at the poker house, portrayed in local movies such as God of stop, they’ll just turn I started noticing the hit in my bank account Gamblers, it’s not all flash and glory. Poker is underground” weeks later.” a grind. But Lam is already one of the better In North America, professional poker “losers”, he says there is many a night when players such as Phil Ivey, Phil Hellmuth, Doyle But if Verma and Huang’s winning ways he sees players lose over HK$10,000 – and Brunson, and a group of Asian Americans give the impression that anyone can win at that’s at the low stakes table. One of these such as Johnny Chan and Liz Lieu have poker, in reality this couldn’t be further from players is his friend. “Sometimes, the ugly achieved celebrity status. The local ones are, the truth. The fact is Verma and Huang are side of gambling addiction pops up,” he says, slowly, catching up in fame. highly educated and intelligent guys who recounting a time when his friend asked him It’s easy to spot poker pro Bryan Huang would be making good money even if they to borrow money to last him the in Macau. For one, he’s always there. The were working a nine to five. “Most successful rest of the month after 25-year-old plays eight to 12 hours a day, six poker players are losing over HK$10,000 nights a week at the Grand Lisboa poker room. smart,” says Flynn, in two hours. “But in But the main reason people can identify him a US native who the end, we’re grown u is because his face is plastered on banners in specialised in the room – a celebration of his achievement sports after winning over HK$1 million in poker tournaments last year. He says the long hours he puts in are required to minimise the variance. “There is an element of luck to the game, meaning if two players sit down and play ten hands, anyone can beat anyone due to luck of the draw,” says Huang, who turned down an accountancy job after graduation when he realised he could put his strong analytical and mathematical skills to more exciting use. “But if you play 100 hands, or 1,000 hands, then the more skillful player will win most of the time.” Basically, Huang is saying this: the longer you sit at the poker table with him, the more likely he’s going to take your money. If there’s one stereotype to poker players that is spot on, it’s that they are night owls. Here in Hong Kong, Verma sleeps in until late afternoon each day, and by the time he has 24 timeout.com.hk May 12 – 25 2010 May 12 – 25 2010 timeout.com.hk 25 a corner for DJs, karaoke and dart machines, and plenty of alcohol. But the biggest draw is the nightly poker games. With cheaper membership adults,” says Lam. “I don’t blame anyone when and entry fees, Miusik has proved I lose. I can stop playing, get better at the popular for the mid-stakes players. game, or not care about losing.” Ultimately, though, these professional Where to play Hong Kong Poker players who win regularly and players who Meetup lose uncontrollably only make up a small Hong Kong Poker House www.meetup.com/geo-poker-hk percentage of the poker scene. Most players, 1/F, 49 Hollywood Road, Central, 2850 This is better for beginners, as the like Chan and the others who had their night 8833 stakes are low ($1-2 blinds). Fellow interrupted by the police raid, are just looking Professionally trained dealers and top-of- players are friendly and are there for the occasional, casual game. the-line poker tables, chips, and cards make for socialising and networking as this private member’s club the premiere much as betting. No membership The Future place to play. Stakes can vary depending on fee required. night. Membership fee required. Flynn, who has worked with a bunch of lawyers to ensure the HKPH fits within the legal parameters doesn’t feel easy about the Miusik Member’s Club 13/F, Ying Kong Mansion, 2-6 Yee Wo recent raid, but nor is he losing sleep over it. Street, Causeway Bay, 9198 4005 “I’m ready to defend myself against the law,” none of their business. The Hong Kong www.facebook.com/miusikpokerclub he says. “But make no mistake – I don’t want poker meet-up group also continues to This private member’s club offers many to. I want to give face and respect everybody. organise games, although they now forms of entertainment for members, We’re just holding a venue that makes it legit put the words “social gathering” in big there’s a stage for live music performances, and safe for players to play cards, we’re not a bold capital letters on their webpage. casino. We make zero profits from the poker.” Meanwhile, rumours in the poker The biggest misconception, according circles are swirling that the guys behind to HKPH’s Flynn, is that the game is “seedy The Blue Room have already set up a weekly and dark, like in the movies.” Indeed, on any Of course, these players eventually develop high stakes private game at a Causeway Bay given night at the HKPH, a diverse crowd that into avid players. “What I love about poker hotel. includes women and university students can be is that you are not playing against the house, The only thing that matters, according to found at the tables. in games like blackjack and craps, you’re Flynn, is for the scene to grow. “Hell, if the For new and casual players, Flynn and mathematically proven to lose,” says Lee, Jockey Club wants to organise poker in Hong partners have organised the Hong Kong an investment banker. “Poker is about risk- Kong, if they want in, I’d welcome them.” Poker League, which hosts weekly free management and calculations, like my job.” Whether the stakes be high or low, the games poker tournaments at Philia, Privé and other It doesn’t look like the raid has affected casual or serious, there is no shortage of nightspots around Central. Managing Director other venues as well. When Time Out poker action going on nightly in the city. And Jeffrey Ng says the league offers a zero-risk contacted Miusik lounge about their poker if Western trends are anything to go by, the environment for players who want to play the games, a staff member said they were only a game is here to stay. The question is, can the game for fun. private club and what the customers do there is police do anything about it? Before poker... Quasi-legal gambling is of course nothing new in Hong Kong, and mahjong houses have treaded the same territory for years. Grace Tsoi investigates the history and current state of these betting bolt-holes As far as poker has come in Hong Kong, it still of tiles being shuffled together within, not have been issued since 1871). It’s widely has a long way to go before it rivals mahjong, to mention the occasional cry of “pong!” or believed that mahjong was given de facto the city’s most popular gambling game. Played “kong!” (shouted when three identical tiles are immunity from the gambling laws because with four people (called “legs” in Cantonese), matched). the colonial government feared a widespread it’s a game that is very much like poker: a good These houses generally rely on backlash if it took away the beloved game of combination of skill and luck is required to “commissions” as their income, meaning the Chinese. be successful. But for those with no legs of they take a cut like casinos (poker houses, If you’ve seen your fair share of Hong their own, mahjong houses provide the option conversely, take no commissions and make Kong movies, you may believe that mahjong of playing with strangers. Despite being nothing off poker games). So the question is, houses are gathering grounds for tattooed triad typically housed in enclosed spaces with tinted how can this be legal? Doesn’t the Jockey Club members. In reality, mahjong houses abide by windows, mahjong houses are easily identified have a monopoly on all forms of gambling strict rules. For example, mahjong houses can by the clicking and clacking sound here? Well, mahjong is the exception, thanks only open from noon to midnight, while they to a law passed by the colonial need to seek approval from the Television and government in 1871 legitimising Entertainment Licensing Authority when they the game if played under a valid want to hire staff. Every staff member must licence. pass a background check. There are regulations, In recent years such stringent regulations, though. The government along with negative stereotypes and the rising has a limit on the amount popularity of other forms of gambling, has led of mahjong house licences to a decline in the number of mahjong houses. it can grant (just 144 licenses Today, only about 60 remain in the city. 26 timeout.com.hk May 12 – 25 2010