GREECE

thens, having been inhabited since the Neolithic age, is considered Europe’s historical capital. During its long, Aeverlasting and fascinating history the city reached its zenith in the 5th century B.C (the “Golden Age of Pericles”), when its values and civilisation acquired a universal significance and glory. Political thought, theatre, the arts, philosophy, science, architecture, among other forms of intellectual thought, reached an epic acme, in a period of intellectual consummation unique in world history. Therefore, Athens constituted the cradle of western civilisation. A host of Greek words and ideas, such as democracy, harmony, music, mathematics, art, gastronomy, architecture, logic, Eros, eu- phoria and many others, enriched a multitude of lan- guages, and inspired civilisations. Over the years, a multitude of conque - rors occupied the city and erected splendid monuments of great signifi- cance, thus creating a rare historical palimpsest. Driven by the echo of its classical past, in 1834 the city became the capital of the modern Greek state. During the two centuries that elapsed however, it developed into an attractive, modern metropolis with unrivalled charm and great interest. Today, it offers visitors a unique experience. A “journey” in its 6,000-year history, including the chance to see renowned monu- ments and masterpieces of art of the antiquity and the Middle Ages, and the architectural heritage of the 19th and 20th cen- turies. You get an uplifting, embracing feeling in the brilliant light of the attic sky, surveying the charming landscape in the environs of the city (the indented coastline, beaches and mountains), and enjoying the modern infrastructure of the city and unique verve of the Athenians. Year-round visitors are fascinated by Athens, one of the most at- 1. A section of the pediment tractive and charming capitals of Europe. of the Athens Academy building. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1 ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS

Tour of Athens, stage 1: 1 ΟLYMPIEION AD by the Roman Empe ror he Olympieion includes the Hadrian. It is of Corinthian sanctuary (temple) of Α NTIQUITIES T order (110m in length and Olympian Zeus, Roman baths, approximately 44m in width), 15 IN Α THENS classical houses as well as a sec- three rows of eight columns at tion of the ancient city’s fortifi- the narrow sides and two rows cation wall. According to the of twenty columns at its long geographer Pausanias, the tem- sides. Inside the temple there ple of Olympian Zeus was 14 was a gold and ivory statue of founded by Deukalionas, Zeus which does not exist a mythical ancestor of the today. Greeks. In the age of tyrrany, circa 515 BC, Peisistratos the • Ilissos Valley. The surviv- Ilissos river 13 younger grandson of the tyrant ing section of the Peisistratos, attempted to re- valley (right behind the temple place the old temple with a of Olympian Zeus) is worth a new, more impressive temple. visit. In antiquity the Ilissos riv- The tyranny, however, was er was known as the sacred riv- abolished and construction er of the Muses. Scattered re- work was terminated. The con- mains of ancient sanctuaries struction of the new temple are located in the valley. You was later assigned to the will find nearby the rock of the Kalliroi spring 4 Roman architect Decimus – which was fa- 5 Cossutius by the king of Syria mous in antiquity – and the Antiochus IV Epiphanes. church of Ayia Fotini, which Antiochus died in 163 BC and was built in 1872 at the site of the construction of the temple an ancient temple, on the foun- was once again abandoned. dation of the sacred sanctuary The structure did not have a of Ekati. You will find nearby, roof and pediment. The con- the preserved monuments of struction of the temple, which the Classical, Roman, and ranks among the biggest in an- Byzantine age, among others, tiquity, was completed in 131 (the Temple of Apollo Delphinios,

3-kilometre pedestrian zone (the biggest in Europe) has been established in central roads A(Vas. Olgas Str, D. Areopagitou Str, Ap. Pavlou Str, Adrianou Str. and a section of Ermou Str) leading to the major archaeological sites of Athens (archaeological park). Visitors to the section from Dionyssiou Aeropagitou 2. Temple of (opposite Hadrian’s Arch) to the crossroads Olympian Zeus: 16 of a total of Ermou Str and Piraeus Str (in the Kerameikos area) of 104 columns may enjoy the ancient landscape in a tranquil (with a height of 17 metres) setting of the city. have been The archaeological tour is an unforgettable experience. preserved. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1 ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS

the Temple of Cronos and Rhea, a Byzantine quarter with workshops, 4. Famous sights and Leonidis Church). of Athens: the rock of the Acropolis, 2 HADRIAN’S ΑRCH the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, ollowing the con- the Temple Fstruction of the of Athena temple of Zeus, the Victory and the Propylaea. Athenians, in 131 In the AD, in honour of foreground, Emperor Hadrian, the Roman built an arch on the Odeion northwestern perime- of Herodes ter of the temple. The Atticus and in the background monument is 18m tall and 13m Lycabettus Hill. 3. Hadrian’s wide while the arch, built of arch, Pentelic marble, bears two in- the symbolic scriptions on the architrave gate of the city over the arch. One inscription, of Athens. facing the Acropolis and the old town (facing west), says: “This is Athens, the city of 6 ΔΕΙΤΕ: 7 Theseus.” The other inscription, facing the sanctuary and an ex- tension of Athens constructed by Hadrian, (facing east), says: “This is the city of Hadrian, not Theseus.” 3 DIONYSSIOU 4 THE ANCIENT ΑREOPAGITOU THEATRE Areopagitou Str ), and descend. STR OF DIONYSOS On the slope to your right is ionyssiou Aeropagitou Str irections: Enter the ar- the most ancient theatre of the Dis one of the most impres- Dchaeological area on the world, the Theatre of Dionysos. sive streets of Athens, offering southern slope of the Acropolis In this theatre, the most famous an extraordinary view of the (entrance at Dionyssiou ancient Greek poets, Aeschylus, southern slope of the Acropolis, where some of the city’s most significant monuments stand, and the Parthenon. Most of the buildings on one side of the 5. View of the road facing south were con- pedestrianized structed in the late 19th centu- Dionyssiou ry and the early 20th century Areopagitou in the neoclassical or mod- Str., centerpiece of the “grand ernist style, reflecting the bour- promenade” geois style of the street. in the archaeological sites of Athens. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1 ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS

5 THE STOA 8. Fireworks OF EUMENES over the Acropolis during bove the theatre is the Stoa the millennium Aof Eumenes, which was festivities. built by the King of Pergamum, Eumenes II in the 2nd century BC. The arch provided shelter to theatregoers in case of bad weather or shade from the sun. Nearby are the ruins of the Asklepeion of Athens, which was built in 429 BC, following the plague, which decimated the population.

6. The Theatre Aristophanes, Euripides, and of Dionysos. 6 THE ODEION Sophocles saw premiere per- OF HERODES formances of their plays in the TTICUS 5th century BC. The auditorium A and the proscenium were made he Odeion of Herodes of wood. In the 4th century BC TAtticus was built in 161 AD 8 they were reconstructed using by the wealthy Herodes 9 marble. Sections of the stone Tiberius Claudius Atticus, a auditorium survive. According teacher and philosopher, who to experts, the theatre had a ca- inherited a fortune from his fa- pacity of 17,000. On the slope ther. Herodes Atticus construct- overlooking the theatre, sculpt- ed the covered Odeion in ed on the rock of the memory of his wife Regilla. Acropolis, is the choregic Ancient Greeks organised Monument of Thasyllus (319 BC) events in the Odeion. and two choregic Corinthian Nowadays, the 5,000-seat the- columns. atre is a venue for concerts of the Athens Festival ( page ancient civilisation with the 136). You may enjoy the modern city. beauty and charm of The monuments on the Odeion in a the Sacred Rock morning stroll on date back to the the way to the prehistoric era 9. The performance Acropolis. and antiquity. of a ballet The grandeur on the stage and beauty of 7 THE at the Odeion of the Sacred Rock Herodes Atticus. ΑCROPO- attract Greek LIS and foreign visitors. 7. The Roman he Acropolis is the A visit to the Odeion of Tsymbol of Athens, the sa- Acropolis is a unique ex- Herodes Atticus. cred rock, linking the fabulous perience. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1 ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS

7.2 THE TEMPLE OF of the architect Kallikrates. 12. The northern THE ATHENA VICTORY The site was the location of wing of (Wingless Victory) a sancturary in the prehistoric the Propylaea, south of the Propylaea, was era. To the left of the temple known you will find the Erechtheion. as the Gallery, built circa 420 BC in commem- was decorated oration of the victory of the Facing the temple is the with paintings. Greeks against the Persians. Parthenon. The temple was the work 7.3 THE PARTHENON is an architectural masterpiece of great renown. You will ap- preciate its splendour if you visit, and learn about the history and the se- crets of the construc- 7.4 tion of the Parthenon. This THE SIGHTS: 7 unique temple, dedicated to the 7.1 7.1 goddess Athena, THE PROPYLAEA 7.3 was built of adorned with monuments, 7.2 Pentelic marble. 10 11 is the grand entrance of the The Parthenon of Acropolis. The Propylaea, the classical era 10. built by Pericles in 437-432 was built on the The Parthenon, BC, were the work of the remains of the the most famous Athenian archi- monumental splendid tect, Mnesikles. They 6 earlier architectural were incorporated in the Parthenon, an ar- achievement of classical wall which has been pre- 5 chaic temple Greece. served until today and was built in the late 4 6th century BC.

built during the first half of the 5th century B.C., in place of the older destroyed Cyclopean wall. Before reaching the Propylaea, you will pass 11. The western through the Beuleέ gate, part of side of the tower the Roman fortifications of the of the Temple Acropolis. Right after that you of Athena will encounter a 13 m. high Victory. In the pedestal, known as the “monu- lower section ment of Agrippa”, on which the is a small sanctuary Athenians in 27 B.C. erected a shaped as statue of the Roman Marcus a double niche. Agrippa, benefactor of the city. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1 ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS

The architects of the classical 7.4 THE temple, which was constructed ΕRECHTHEION and decorated from 447-432BC Take note of the following: was built from 420-406 BC at (in the golden century of Please be patient when you ascend columns, which appear the most holy site Pericles), were Iktinos and of the Acropolis, the holy rock. You will be to bulge. Kallikrates. It is a Doric peri - where goddess rewarded by the spectacular view • The Erechtheion is a unique pteral temple with 8 columns Athena planted the temple constructed on the front and the back and at the top. olive tree, her sa- 17 columns on each side. In • You will pass through the according to the style cred symbol. The the Parthenon stood the chry- Propylaea before you arrive of ancient Athens. It is tree was later de- selephantine statue of Athena, at the Parthenon. constructed on two levels. stroyed by Persian the work of the famous sculp- It is asymmetrical and has invaders. According • The view from the temple tor Pheidias, who was also in two balconies, which are to mythology, fol- charge of the overall construc- of the Athena Victory is not thematically connected lowing the expul- tion. The statue was the desti- spectacular. to each other. The small sion of the nation of the great procession • The slight bulge of the Persians, the tree of the Panathenaea, depicted balcony on the south side is columns of the Parthenon better known, mainly due miraculously on the frieze of the temple. sprouted again. gives the impression that to the six Caryatids that The chryselephantine statue they are bending support the roof. The Caryatids: of Athena: under the weight differences between the The figures of the According to of the roof. sections of the temple may maidens support- mythology, the 12 • The secret of the be due to the fact that the ing the roof of the southern 13 name of the city balcony of the temple are harmony of the various parts are dedicated is connected copies. Five of the six Maidens 14. Parthenon is that to various gods. The eastern with a rivalry be- that once adorned the temple Varvakeios there is not a tween Poseidon section was dedicated to are displayed in the Acropolis Athena, a copy of Pheidias’s and Athena for straight line in the Athena Poliada, and the Museum, while the sixth is dis- gold and ivory the guardianship of the city. design. Don’t be deceived by western section to Poseidon played in the British Museum. Poseidon offered the Athenians statue (National the optical illusion of the Erechtheus. Archaeological 13. The a horse, while Athena, struck THE new ΑCROPOLIS Museum). Erechtheion the rock of the Acropolis with ΜUSEUM on the northern her spear, and an olive tree ( pages 45, 90-91) side of the rock sprouted. The Athenians pre- ferred the olive tree, which and the analytical descriptions of the Acropolis. symbolised peace and prosperi- of Pausanias ty. The city was named after (2nd century Athena. The 12-metre high stat- AD), testify to ue stood in the Parthenon. The the existence interior of the statue was made of the statue. of wood, while the nude parts Archaeo logists were made of ivory. The re- have derived movable robe and the helmet information were coated with gold plating. about the statue The statue, which represented from copies. the goddess Athena bearing The most fa- 15. The southern arms, and on her right hand a mous copy balcony of 2-metre high ivory statue of is the the Erechtheion victory, was lost in the early Varvakeios with the famous Byzantine era. Ancient sources, Athena. Caryatids. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1 ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS

Orestes for the murder of his 10 THE PNYX the National Observatory, 19. Pnyx: mother Clytemnaestra, and her page 47). The semicircular the speaker’s lover Aegisthus. Apostle Paul he Pnyx is situated between square was after 6th century BC podium, facing spoke to the Athenians at the Tthe Hill of the Muses (the lo- the location of the assembly the rock cation of Philopappus’ of the Acropolis. Areios Pagos in 51 AD. of the people of Athens. They A bronze plaque on the base Monument) and the Hill of the gathered here to hear orators of the hill commemorates his Nymphs, (the location of the speak from a rock platform in sermons. Sanctuary of the Nymphs and the centre of the Pnyx, and par- ticipate in the democratic 9 polity. The assembly is thought PHILOPAPPOU to have a capacity of 10,000. HILL ell worth a visit any time 11 THE ΑNCIENT Wof the year. A walk at ΑGORA Philopappou Hill is a fascinat- he archaeological area of 16. The hill ing experience: you will find of Areios Pagos 8 THE ΑREIOS here a magnificent park, im- Tthe ancient Agora is located commanding PAGOS portant monuments such as the on the foothills of the an impressive alleged “Prisons of Socrates,” the Acropolis, near metro stop view of the he Areios Pagos, venerated “Tombs of Kimon,” the ancient “Thission.” In antiquity, the Acropolis Tin antiquity, is the most an- Koilis street, which was a mer- Agora was not solely a com- cient law court of the world. It cantile boulevard with shops mercial centre. It was also an 14 was the seat of the first aristo- and houses, the “Iroo important political, cultural and 15 cratic assembly of ancient Mousaiou,” the Philopappus religious centre. In the area of monuments Athens. The assembly gradually Monument and the spectacular the agora were located admin- and the present- lost political influence and in view of the Parthenon and the istrative buildings, temples, day city. the latter half of the 5th centu- Acropolis. public services and courts. The ry, it retained solely its func- Athenians gathered here every 17. Philopappus tion as a court, mostly hearing day to buy and sell their goods, Hill: the cobbled murder cases. The Oresteia de- learn the current news, criticise footpaths scribes the trial at this court of THE SIGHTS: of D. Pikionis. the government, exchange 18. The funerary monument of Philopappus (with a height • Philopappus Monument of 12 metres), decorated with sculpted was built by Athenians in the depictions of Philopappus 2nd century BC in honour of and his family. the benefactor, ruler of Syria, Gaius Julius Antiochus. Gaius Prolylaea of the Acropolis and Julius was also known as Philopappou Hill. Take note of Philopappus, which roughly the hand made cobbled roads translated means “one who leading to the monuments, loves his grandfather.” His the church of Ayios Demetrios grandfather was the last King of Loumbardiaris ( page 25) Kommagini Antiochus IV. and the refreshment room. • Cobbled road. In the The area has been designated 1950’s the Greek architect D. a Scheduled and Protected Pikionis developed the design Monument of the Global of the area encompassing the Cultural Heritage. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1 ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS

THE SIGHTS: 11.1 Thission (Theseion) - Temple of Hephaistos. 22. The Temple The Thission was dedicated to Hephaistos and Athena, and not of Hephaestos Theseus. It is located in the western perimeter of the Agora. It is (“Thission”), on the western the best-preserved temple of antiquity. It was built in 460-415 BC. side of the In the temple stood the statues of Hephaistos and Athena, thought Ancient Agora to have been sculpted by Alkamenes. (Agoraeios 11.2 The monument of the Eponymous Heroes. Here Kolonos Hill). stood the statues of the ten heroes of Attica (4th century BC). The ten clans of Attica were named after the heroes. Public announce- ments were displayed on the pedestal of these statues. 11.3 Poikile 16 Stoa. It is thought that 17 the Poikile Stoa derived its name from the vari- 20. Panoramic view ety of the colours and of the archaeo- themes of its frescoes. 23. A model logical site of The name “Poikile” (poikile means diverse) leads us to the suppo- of the Ancient Agora. sition that the frescoes here were painted in a variety of colours Eponymon Among others, ideas, or engage in discussion. and themes. Here Zinon taught Stoic philosophy, which was Iroon the Stoa AD. The church of Ayioi named after the Poikile Stoa (460 BC). monument. of Attalus, The area was settled in the Apostoloi was built in the 11th the Odeion Neolithic age. The monuments century AD ( page 24). 11.4 The Stoa of Attalus. The Stoa of Attalus, a two-floor of Agrippa located there building, was donated by the King of Pergamum Attalus II (159- and the Temple were built in 138 BC) to the city of Athens. It is thought to have been a kind of of Ares (Mars) various histori- ancient commercial centre with 21 shops on each floor. The col- (440 BC) cal periods: lection of the Museum displays everyday objects, which were un- can be seen. from the clas- earthed in excavations in the ancient Agora. Visitors may get an sical age to the idea of everyday life in ancient Athens. 11th century 11.5 The Basileios Stoa. The Basileios Stoa, constructed circa 500 BC, is located on the foothills of the Theseion. It was the seat of the Archon Vasileus and the council of the Areios Pagos. 21. Attalus 11.6 Odeion of Agrippa. Built by Agrippa in 15 B.C. colonnade was It could seat 1,000 spectators and had a two-storeyed portico. fully restored It was destroyed in 267 A.D. by the Herulians and in 400 A.D. from 1953-1956. the Gymnasium was built in its place. On the north side four large It houses the statues of Giants and Tritons, salvaged from the Odeion, were Ancient Agora placed on pedestals. Three of these statues still exist. Museum. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1 ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS

Athens. It was partly enclosed 12 26. Detail 24. A drawing 13 by, and partly beyond, the walls of the Kyrristus’ representing that divide the area of the exca- Clock, with the Ancient and vation. In the centre of the ar- bas-reliefs Roman Agora. chaeological site are the two of the winds 11.4 and their best known arches of ancient symbols. 11.6 Athens, the Dipylon where the Roman emperor Panathenaic procession would Vespasianus. start and the Sacred Arch, 11.3 where the sacred way would 11.2 • Fetihie begin and the Elefsinian Mosque. Mysteries procession would pass ( page 27) 11.5 through ( page 115). In the vicinity of the arches was the most ancient and the biggest cemetery of Attica. Moreover 13 HADRIAN’S it was the place of burial of citi- LIBRARY zens who were honoured by t is situated north of the the city of Athens. According Roman Agora (the entrance to the geographer Pausanias, I the location was named after 11.1 is on 3 Areos St). It is a rectan- gular building measuring 122m Keramos. How ever, the place 18 19 x 82m with a Corinthian propy- was most likely named after the neighbourhood of the ker- 12 THE ROMAN lon on the west side. It was built by Roman emperor ameoi (potters). (The definition ΑGORA of Kerameikos is something re-

Hadrian in 132 A.D. It formed 25. The central he Roman Agora (in the a colonnade with specific areas lated to ceramics of potters). yard of the TPlaka area) was an architec- used for the storage of papyrus- The neighbourhood of the ker- Roman Agora tural complex, built between es and books, lecture halls etc. ameoi was established on the and in 19 and 11 B.C., consisting of There was a courtyard in the banks of the river Iridanos. You the background can see the riverbed in the ar- Kyrristus’ Clock a large rectangular court sur- center. In this courtyard an rounded by colonnades (stoas). Early Christian Church was chaeological area. The ancient (“The tower stands an octagonal monument. of the winds”). Behind the stoas were various built during the 5th century Demos of Kerameikos covered The Clock of Andronicus shops. A.D., which was later destroyed a large area. Only part of it has Kyrristus , constructed in the 1st and replaced by a century BC, was a hydraulic 7th century three- clock. On each face of the THE SIGHTS: aisled and an 11th clock can be seen bas-reliefs of century single-aisled • Gate of Athena the eight winds. The monu- basilica. Archegetis. Located at the ment has taken its name ‘Winds’ west side of the area. A monu- from the depictions. mental gateway with four Doric 14 THE • Vespasianes (public lava- columns and a pediment of ΕRA- tories). Rectangular building Κ Pentelic marble, preserved in MEIKOS with anteroom and square excellent condition. room with benches with holes he ancient • Kyrristus’ Clock – Tower in them on all four sides and a TKerameikos was of the Winds. On the east- sewage canal underneath (1st located in the north- ern side of the Roman Agora century A.D.), named after western outskirts of TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1 ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS

been unearthed in excavations. sculpture of the Dexileos tomb THE SIGHTS: 29. It is thought that the area of the stele, as well as other finds of Dexileos’s Kerameikos was bounded by the the excavation, please visit the • The Sacred Residence funerary north-western perimeter of the Museum. The tomb stele of monument. of the Geometric period Dexileos Agora on one side and the copse Hegeso is displayed in the consists of seven rectangular was killed that was named after the hero National Archaeo logical spaces. It has the same features in 394 B.C. Akademos, on the other side. Museum ( page 87). as the sacred residence of in a battle Eleusina. Remnants of sacri- near Corinth. • The fices found at the residence THE SIGHTS: Kerameikos Museum. Is locat- seem to indicate that intensive • Tombs and ste- ed in the archaeo- worship took place here. lae (columns). logical site of • The Gymnasium. 27. The stele The Kerameikos is Kerameikos. It dis- of Hegeso. The Gymnasium is a large rec- mainly known for its plays very signifi- tangular building (1st century • The Public Memorial. tombs and columns. cant finds of the ex- BC – 1 century AD), with an in- A section of the ancient ceme- The copy of the mar- cavation of Kera - ternal peristyle and rooms on tery, including the tombs of ble bull in the enclo- meikos, including the northern side. In the public figures and a multitude sure of the tomb of funeral gifts found Gymna sium is a small area that of the graves of soldiers fallen Dionysus from in tombs and served as an arena. Kollytos, and the scrulptures adorn- in battle, was recently excavat- copy of the famous ing tombs of the ar- ed near the archaeological area • The Peristyle building. of Kerameikos (at 35, Salaminas A large rectangular building 20 columns of Dexileos and chaic and classical periods. 21 Hegeso (late 5th century BC). Str). (4th century BC) with an interi- If you want to see the original or peristyle. It is thought to be an arena or an annex of the 15 THE AKADEMIA Gymnasium. The festival of the PLATONOS 28. The Panathenaea. (PLATO’S ACADEMY) • The Early Greek Arched Residence. It consists of a procession Every year the ancient Atheni- he area was inhabited in of the great hall, a chamber and a storage ans celebrated the Mikra the prehistoric age (in the Panathenea, T room. It is thought to be the (small) Panathenaea, and 6th century BC one of the three depicted prehistoric residence of every four years they cele- famous Gymnasia of Athens was on a part of the Akademos. 30. Plato’s Pathenon frieze brated the Megala (great) founded here). It is named after Academy. (circa 440 BC). Panathenaea, which were the hero Akademos, or Ekadi - grander and included horse racing, athletic contests, com- mos. However, it is known after petitions in music and other activities. On the last day of the famous philosophical the festival, a procession began at Kerameikos, (the prepa- school founded by Plato (neigh- ration of the procession would take place in a large 5th bourhood Akademia Platonos) in century B.C. building with a peristyle central court named 387 BC. The school was a focal Pompeion next to the Dipylon). The procession passed point of the prestigious Neopla- through the Agora and ascended the Acropolis, where a veil tonist philosophers. Today, the named “Peplon” was offered to goddess Athena. According archaeological site is developing to custom, during the festival, statues were covered with within a park. It occupies a sur- real clothes. The robe of the gods was basically a woollen face of approximately 37 acres, tunic, woven by a priestess assisted by young virgins. It was between Athinon Avenue and placed on the mast of a large wooden boat as its sail and Lenorman Avenue (access from carried to the Acropolis. The procession followed the boat. the streets Monastiriou, Faonos This procession is depicted on the frieze of the Acropolis. and Drakondos). TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 2 BYZANTINE MONUMENTS IN ATHENS

Tour of Athens, Stage 2: of the bishops from the Parthe non by the Franks B ΥΖΑΝΤΙΝE and later the Turks. M ONUMENTS IN A THENS From 1839 to 1842 it was used as a library. The new Metropolis he 11th and the 12th centuries are thought nearby was built from to be the Golden Age of Athens’ Byzantine art. 1842 and 1862 as the Most of the better known and more important cathedral of Athens. T It is a domed church Byzantine churches of Athens were built in these two built in the neo byzan- centuries as part of a Christian reconstruction following tine and neo- 31. Kapnikarea. the campaigns of Emperor Basil II in the Balkans. Some classical style. Ermou Str, and was a hindrance of the better-known monasteries were also founded to traffic. However, thanks to in the same period in the suburbs of Athens. the intervention of Ludwig of Bavaria, father of King Otto, and Neofytos Metaxas, Bishop of Talantio and Bishop of Athens, the church was preserved at the present location.

22 3 ΑYIOS NIKOLAOS 23 RANGAVAS (Plaka) is located near the Anafiotika area of Plaka. The church was built in the 11th century. It was part of the Palace of the Ranga - vas family. Michael I, Emperor 2 ΚΑPNIKAREA of Byzantium, was descended (Ermou Str) from this family. The area he Kapnikarea is a cruci- around the church was formerly 32. Ayios form, domed Byzantine called Rangavas. T Eleftherios. Cathedral. church with a dome dedicated It was built in the to the Presentation of the Virgin late 12th century. It Mary. The original building was is dedicated to Gorgoe- constructed in the 11th centu- pikoos Panayia (the Virgin ry. Construction was completed Mary) and Ayios Eleftherios. in the 13th century. It has had Ancient and Byzantine bas-re- various names: Camoucharea, THE SIGHTS: liefs were used for the con- Chrysocamouchariotissa, Panayia struction of the church. In the tis Vasilopoulas (Virgin of the 1 THE OLD façade is an ancient frieze, tak- Kings daughter). In 1834, the METROPOLIS en from a monument of the 4th year of the construction of (CATHEDRAL) century B.C. depicting official Ermou Str, the authorities con- (Mitropoleos Square) attic festivals. The church was sidered plans to relocate the his charming church is lo- the official Episcopal Seat of church, or demolish it, since it Tcated near the new Athens following the expulsion was located in the middle of TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 2 BYZANTINE MONUMENTS IN ATHENS

7 ΜETOCHI Byzantine frescoes of the church 13 ΑYIOI ΑSOMATOI PANAYIOU TAFOU of Ayios Spyridonas, which has (Thissio) (Anafiotika) been demolished, were trans- ported to Ayioi Apostoloi. cruciform church built t is located at Erechtheos Str. Ain the 11th century, with IIt is a small monastery be- 11 PANTANASSA carved stone blocks, framed longing to the Holy Sepulchre (Monastiraki Square) by bricks, while in places sub- of Jerusalem. The church of the sequent Islamic influence monastery, Ayioi Anargyroi was t is a three-aisled basilica built is obvious. built in the 17th century. Iin the 10th century. The church belonged to the mona - 14 ΑYIOS IOANNIS ste ry of Koimesi tis Theotokou 8 PANAYIA CHRYS- STIN KOLONA SOKASTRIOTISSA from which the district’s name (Euripidou Str) (Anafiotika) is derived (Monastiraki) In the older days it was a dependency small chapel built in the ne of several churches in of the Kaisariani Monastery ( A12th century, it was named OAnafiotika. According to page 105). after a Roman column, pre- 4 ΑYIA EKATERINI popular belief, the miraculous served in the interior. Ayios (Plaka) icon of the church protects be- 12 ΑYIOS DEMETRIOS Ioannis o Vaptistis was thought lievers in difficult circum- to be a healer of all sicknesses is located near the Lysikrates LOUMBARDIARIS stances. (Philopappou hill) of the head. Visitors may see Monument ( page 32), in the on the column offerings to the square bearing the same name. 9 is a beautiful basilica of the 16th Saint offered by the faithful ex- 24 SOTIRA 25 Shading the church is a palm LYKODIMOU - century, with remarkable fres- pressing gratitude for his help. tree. It was constructed from RUSSIAN CHURCH coes. According to prevailing 11th-12th century. In the corner tradition its name (Filellinon Str) 15 of the square are the ruins of (Loumbardiaris or Bombardiaris) ΑYIOI a roman monument. is the biggest medieval building was derived from an incident THEODOROI (Klafthmonos Square) of Athens. Built in 1031, it was that occurred in the 17th centu- 5 ΑYIOS IOANNIS part of a Roman Catholic ry when the Christians believed he church was reconstruct- THEOLOGOS (Plaka) monastery that closed in 1701. that Saint Demetrios protected Ted in the late 11th century In the 1850’s the building was them from a great Turkish can- on the foundation of a church is a very beautiful cruciform renovated by Tsar Alexander II non (Loumbarda) located there. that was built in the 9th centu- church of the 11th-12th centu- who donated a bell-tower. ry. It is located at the cross- Sotira Lykodimou is the Russian roads of Erotokritou Str and Orthodox Church of Athens. Erechtheos Str. It has been reno- vated several times. 10 ΑYIOI ΑPOSTOLOI TOU SOLAKI 6 SOTIRAS (Ancient Agora) TOU KOTAKI is located in the compound of (Plaka) the Ancient Agora excavation. 33. The is better known as Ayia Sotira. It is one of the oldest churches Byzantine It is located at Kythathinaeon of Athens (1000-1025 AD). It church of Ayioi Str, opposite the Museum of was constructed on the ruins of Apostoloi, 34. Ayios Greek Folk art, in the Plaka a Roman nympheum of the 2nd on the eastern Demetrios side area. It was built in the 11th- century. In the 1950’s, following Loumbardiaris, of the Ancient 12th century. It has been reno- a renovation, it was restored on Philopappou Agora. vated several times. to its original form. Many post- Hill. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 2 TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 3

Tour of Athens, Stage 3: ry. It was built by N. Kalomaos, 18 ΑYIOS GEORGIOS who was a Spatharocandidatos (Lycabettus Hill) (a rank of the Byzantine Court). OTTOMAN MONUMENTS is a whitewashed church at the IN ATHENS 16 ΤAXIARHES top of Lycabettus Hill. You can 37. The reach the church on foot, or by (the church of the Petraki Mo - thens was conquered by the Ottomans in 1456 Tzistarakis nastery, at 14, Gennadiou Str) funicular. It is thought that in Mosque, on the antiquity the temple of and liberated in 1833. Remarkable buildings picturesque built in the 12th century, Akraios Zeus was locat- of the period have been preserved. Monastiraki it belongs to the A Square. ed here. In the period Petraki Monastery of Frankish rule, the 2 HAMAM (18th century). In 35. Byzantine small chapel of (TURKISH the cross-domed mosaic Profitis Ilias was BATHS) of the Virgin. church visitors may built here. Later he Old Constantinople, see frescoes dating Ayios Georgios the Baths 10th century back to 1719. Rider was built here. T (Benaki (Hamam Abit The exact date of the Museum). Efendi), in Plaka 17 ΑYIOI construction of the (at Kyrristou 8), ISIDOROI church is not known. built in the 17th century, were (Lycabettus Hill) The church bell was donat- a popular meeting place in the ed by Princess Olga who put is a small church located in Ottoman era. The Old Baths the ruined church under her a large cave in Lycabettus Hill. have been renovated and they 26 protection. THE SIGHTS: 27 It was formerly called Ayios house the Museum of Cleanliness Sidereas church. It was burned and Body Embellishment as well as 36. Ayios Georgios, on the top 1 OSQUES in 1930 and reconstructed M many artistic and cultural events. in 1931. of Lycabettus Hill. In the background is its distinctive bell tower. he Tzistarakis Mosque (or Kato Sintrivaniou), located in T 3 Monastiraki Square, was built in ΜUSLIM 1759 by the Turkish voivod SEMINARY Moustafa Agas (or Tzistarakis). he gate of the Muslim semi- 38. The gate Seeking lime for the construc- Tnary, at the crossroads of of the Muslim tion of the Mosque, Tzistarakis Aeolou Str and Pelopida Str, is seminary removed the 17th column of the the remains of the building, (medreses). Temple of Zeus ( page 5). The which was destroyed Mosque has a loggia with four in a fire in 1911. columns and two rows of four According to an in- windows on each side. Since scription above the 1981 it has housed the Museum entrance, the semi- of Traditional Ceramics. In nary was built in 1721 Athens, there is only one and consisted of a mosque open to the public, the main building, which Tzistarakis Mosque. Near the was a school and Roman Agora ( page 18) is mosque, buildings the remarkable Fetihie Mosque, housing the students built in 1458 in honour of and teachers (hodjia), Mohamed II the Conqueror, on kitchen and hygiene the occasion of his visit to areas, and a central Athens. court. THE A RCHITECTURE of M ODERN A THENS

Eclecticism The modernist The post-war era 42. The building movement (1950-2000) of the In the late 19th century the Headquarters tradition of neoclassicism was In the early 1930’s, buildings In the post-war era, the popu - of the National enriched by the romantic with more than two or three lation of Athens and demand Bank of Greece, one of the most aesthetic, usually following the floors - the usual number of for housing rapidly increased. impressive French style. Although floors of buildings at the time - In the 1950’s and the early buildings Athenian classicism remained 1960’s, buildings with marble in Athens the predominant architectural facades, parapets, and imposing (2002). style, public and private entrances were in vogue. From buildings were constructed in 1960-1975 (the development this period in a breezy style, era) the mass construction of influenced by the decorative dull modern buildings was in style in vogue in Western vogue, altering the physio - Europe. gnomy of the new neighbour - hoods. Quality buildings were Art Nouveau also constructed in this era. In the past few decades, following This radical movement was not a period of stagnation, Athens established as a major has acquired important new Neoclassicism architectural trend in Athens. (predominantly public) was from 1834 to the 1920’s 28 However, after 1920, Greek buildings, giving the city a new 29 the predominant architectural bourgeois from Smyrna, Egypt, splendour, and upgrading style of the small city – and Constantinople constructed depressed areas. which was situated in what residences following the art 39. University is today the historical centre. nouveau style. The few, 41. In the period from 1930-1960 of Athens: The style of neoclassicism, impressive art nouveau build - a multitude of buildings reflecting a superb which was in vogue in West - architectural trends from modernism ings contrasted with the to more recent styles were built example ern Europe, was a product of neoclassical uniform neoclassical and in Athens. architecture. of the romantic fascination eclectic architecture prevailing with antiquity. It was in Athens. introduced by German were constructed. These small architects who came to blocks of flats, which Greece in the early 1830’s to sometimes had six floors, plan Athens. In the interwar introduced a Greek variety of era and especially after 1955, the international modernist a number of Athens’ architectural style (Bauhaus, neoclassical buildings were Art Deco). The main torn down. However, in characteristic of buildings many areas of the historical constructed in this period, (as centre, the charming, well as the preceding period), neoclassical style has been are the semicircular ledges,

preserved. and the facades. A multitude 40. Distinctive of these buildings are thought art nouveau to be important monuments mansions at Vassilisis Sofias exemplifying the global Avenue. history of the modernist style. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 4 HISTORIC CENTRE (1)

Tour of Athens, Stage 4: beauty and atmosphere of the old Athenian homes, named 44. Handmade neighbourhood are enchanting. “granddad and grandmother’s wooden toy In Plaka the air you breathe is room,” where children may representing H ISTORIC different; it is lighter, cleaner, dress with period dresses. a bridegroom and fragrant, like a gift of The Museum houses on horseback. C ENTRE (1) The design the gods. When you visit among others, an exhibi- is derived from Plaka you should tion of paintings by an embroidery bring a map, be- children, old toys, of the 18th cause you might a fairground and a century. (Benaki get lost in the labyrinth library. If you have Museum). of narrow streets and al- children, be sure leys. In Adrianou Street, to visit the the central street of the Children’s Museum. neighbourhood, as in other Its, also, worth seeing the streets in the area, you will find neighbouring Museum of Greek shops selling traditional prod- Children’s Art (9, Kodrou str.), ucts, souvenirs, Greek folk art which, among other things, ex- and handicrafts, etc. hibits in its premises paintings and three dimentional artworks THE SIGHTS: by children up to 14 years old from all over Greece, which are 1.1 FILOMOUSOU renewed on a regular basis. 30 ETAIREIAS SQUARE 31 the central square of the neigh- 1.3 LYSIKRATES bourhood, was named after the MONUMENT Filomousos Etairia (The Society In ancient Athens, theatrical 43. of the Friends of the Muses, in performances held at the the- Traditional other words, the nine gods of taverna in the 1 PLAKA Plaka. There are the Arts), which was founded a multitude laka, also known as the in 1813. The purpose of the of tavernas P“neighbourhood of the Society was the promotion of in the district. gods,” is the oldest neighbour- Greek studies and the preserva- hood of Athens. Walking on its tion of the archaeological treas- paved narrow streets you get ures of Athens. At the square, the feeling that you are travel- located at the crossroads of ling back in time. The origin of Kydathinaion Str, Farmaki Str, the name of the neighbourhood Olympiou Dios Str and Angelou is unknown, although theories Geronda Str, are a multitude of abound. According to popular cafes, restaurants, clubs with belief, Plaka was named after live music and souvenir shops. a slab of stone that was found near the church of Ayios 1.2 THE CHILDREN’S Georgios Alexandrias, in the MUSEUM vicinity of the theatre of located at Kidathinaion Str is a Dionysos. The beautiful neo- wonderful place for children. classical style colour of the In the attic is a reconstructed houses, the architecture, the room with old furniture, a ra- 45. Lysikrates well-kept gardens, and the dio, and theatre in the style of Monument. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 4 HISTORIC CENTRE (1)

atre of Dionysos were funded 1.4 AΝΑFIOTIKA and Alexandra 48. The facades by wealthy citizens, the donors. on the foothills of the Acropolis, Kanellopoulos to the of neoclassical The city gave a prize to the houses has the charm of a beautiful is- Greek state. It is donor of the winning per- in Monastiraki. land village. It was built housed in the neoclas- formance. When the in the mid 19th centu- sical mansion of the wealthy Lysikrates ry by the renowned Mihalea family. The won the prize in 334 46. Wooden builders of the Aegean Kanellopoulos collec- window BC, he constructed a island of Anafi, who tion consists of archae- decorated monument to house were invited to con- ological finds and with flowerpots it. The monument is works of art from the in the struct the palace of preserved (ancient “neighbourhood the first king of the prehistoric era to Tripodon Str - pave- of the gods.” Hellenes, Otto ( modern times. ment of the road is page 53). Feeling nos- preserved in a special talgic for their birth- THE ROMAN space in a renovated place in their long stay AGORA building at number 28). The in Athens they recreated it in ( page 18) monument has had a long and the upper area of Plaka. They varied history. In 1658, a built small, whitewashed hous- ΒYZANTINE Capuchin monastery was es, reproducing the architectural CHURCHES found ed here. In 1669, Capu - style of their village. We recom- ( page 22-24) chins bought the monument. mend that you visit Anafiotika, Lord Byron stayed at the mona - the neighbourhood of the OTTOMAN 32 stery in his second visit to 33 Anafiotes, a unique, charming MONUMENTS Greece. In the gardens the cul- area. ( page 27) gettable experience. You will tivation of the tomato, hitherto be stunned by the variety and unknown in Greece, was intro- • quality of things you can buy The Museum of the 2 duced. University of Athens. The ΜΟΝΑSTIRAKI in the market. building housing distinctive “old” Athens the Museum of Aarea, with narrow, irregu- THE SIGHTS: Athens, located at larly criss-crossing streets, and Tholou Str, was for- small buildings, characteristic 2.1 MONASTIRAKI merly the resi- of Ottoman and to some extent SQUARE dence of the archi- Byzantine urban planning. On Historic Square, fully renovat- tect Kleanthis the outdoor stands of street ed, paved with colourful stones (1832-1833). sellers, or the small shops on and paving blocks forming a Subsequently it the central roads (Adrianou Str, multi-coloured mosaic. In the housed the first Pandrosou Str, Ifaistou Str, background, one can see the University of Thiseiou Str, Ayiou Filippou Str, Acropolis Rock ( page 9) and Athens (1837- Astigos Str and Ermou Str) you 47. A multitude the Plaka ( page 30). In this of the 1842). can find anything, such as magnificent square, significant labyrinthine shoes, clothes, old and new monuments from many differ- alleys • The furniture, old books and maga- ent historic eras coexist. Such of the Plaka Kanellopoulos zines, souvenirs, jewellery, hats, monumental sites are the lead to Museum was bronze objects, new and used Tzistarakis mosque ( page the Anafiotika founded in 1976, records and CDs and tradition- and the 27), Hadrian’s library ( page peripheral following the dona- al Greek instruments (bouzouki, 19), the Byzantine church of footpath tion of the private touberleki). Shopping or walk- Pantanassa ( page 25). Of of the Acropolis. collection of Pavlos ing in Monastiraki is an unfor- particular interest also is the TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 4 HISTORIC CENTRE (1)

mezedes - in one of the small page 22) dominates Mitropoleos shops of the square, and ob- Square. On the square are sever- serve the bustle of the bazaar. al cafes. In the colourful Dimo- pratiriou Square nearby you will 2.3 ADRIANOU STR find tavernas with traditional a distinctive Athens street, con- Greek food . nects Hadrian’s library with the “Theseio” metro stop. In the 3.2 ERMOU STR neoclassical one-floor or two- The street is named after the floor buildings are shops with god Hermes – the protector of traditional items, and antique trade. Ermou Str was one of the shops. Street-sellers sell their first streets paved by Kleanthis ware here Sundays. You will and Schaubert. More than 60 find here cafes and small fash- years, from the late 19th centu- Markou Streets, there are many 50. Ermou ionable restaurants with a Street and in ry to the 1960’s, it was a centre shops selling clothing and shoes unique view of the archaeologi- of women’s fashion. It is one of the background at very reasonable prices. the Greek cal area of the Αncient Agora the best areas for shopping in In the section of Ermou Str Parliament. ( page 15). the capital. You will find a vari- renovated neoclassical metro closest to Syntagma Square, (up ety of silver, among others, station - one of the oldest of to Athinas Str) you will find the 3 candle holders, bowls, vases the metro network (1895). THE OLD Kapnikarea church ( page 23). and jewellery, often hand-made Next to the platforms, in a spe- COMMERCIAL In the section of Ermou Str goods produced in Greece, in 34 cially formed space of 300sq.m. CENTRE closest to Pireaus Str (from 35 shops at Lekka Str, which con- one can see the encased with he area encompassed by Thiseio to Pireaus Str) you will nects Perikleous Str and stones, bed and banks of Mitropoleos Str, Athinas Str find the Archaeological site of T Kolokotroni Str, and the nearby Iridanos river, dating from antiq- and Stadiou Str is the heart of Keramikos ( page 19) arcades. Also, in the pictur- uity. It is visible even from the the historic centre of Athens, esque Evangelistrias and Ayiou square, through the archaeolog- and the old commercial area. 3.3 ATHINAS STR ical excavation pit. In the area, with the smaller or A central commer- larger labyrinthine streets, are cial road connecting 2.2 AVISSINIAS more than 2,500 shops selling Omonia Square SQUARE (Giousouroum) a wide range of products. ( page 69) with is the central square of Pedestrian zones have been es- Monastiraki Square Monastiraki. Here you will find tablished. The historic commer- ( page 33). a wide range of rare furniture, cial centre is a rather quiet area, Designed in per- antiques and the copies of an- with a multitude of cafes, small spective of the tiques, and a variety of used bars and modern restaurants. Acropolis Rock, it items. Moreover, you will find was one of the first old wardrobes, bookcases, THE SIGHTS: main roads con- frames, mirrors, antique office structed in modern 51. The 3.1 tables, tables, gramophone MITROPOLEOS Athens and has a Metropolis 49. You can records and musical instru- STR multitude of impor- (Athens enjoy a cafe ments. Come early if you want It connects Syntagma Square tant architectural ex- Cathedral) or a meal at to shop. Noon is the best time ( page 52) with Monastiraki amples of 19th cen- at Mitropoleos Adrianou Street Square. to come if you want to take a tury and early 20th with a view Square ( page 33). The build- On the right of the Ancient look around. You can have a ings on the street are built in century styles. Noisy is Ayios Agora and glass of Greek wine or ouzo the neoclassical style. The and busy most of Eleftherios the Acropolis. with Greek snacks - called Metropolis (Athens Cathedral, the time, Athinas chapel. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 4 HISTORIC CENTRE (1)

is the newly constructed 52. The Athens 3.6 Varvakeios Town Hall. Administration Building of the Municipal (Central) Market National Bank of Greece (2002), is a rectangular building one of the most important (1886) with a large covered modern architectural sights of court. There are a total of 73 Athens. The building was de- food stalls (meat market, fish signed by Greek architects, market, vegetable market and with the collaboration of the fa- groceries) in the interior mous architect M. Botta. and exterior sections. On the ground floor you The market is covered will find a restored sec- 53. A detail of the central with a glass and metal tion of the ancient roof and has sym- entrance of Acharnai road. At the G. Stavrou metrical windows. 10 Sophocleous Str mansion You will find here is the old mansion (Kotzia Square). small restaurants of the Athens Stock (eating-houses) Exchange, with a Str is connected mainly to the representing all the mayors of with fresh food, at- classical style façade food trade. In the arcades of the Athens. In the vicinity of the tracting Athenians with four Dorian old market most of the shops municipality is an attractive, especially after columns. As you sell groceries. The fragrance of small square, Theatrou Square. midnight. There is a small head towards Plaka you will foods, fruits, herbs and nuts per- grove on the square see two marvellous churches, 36 vades the air. The street has the 3.5 Kotzia Square (Varvakeios Square) across the which are well worth a visit: 37 street. charm of the bazaars of the East. (Ethnikis Antistassis Square) The Panagia Chrysospiliotissa (1863 - at the crossroads of formerly called Laou Square, 3.7 EVRIPIDOU STR 3.4 Athens Town Hall and Loudovikou Square, faces Aiolou Str and Panagia Chryso - (Athinas Str 63) the Town Hall. The eclectic a charming street with an ori- spiliotissa Str) and Ayia Eirini was constructed in 1874 in a style Melas Mansion (Ern. Ziller ental atmosphere, connects (1847 - Athinaidos Str) both strictly neoclassical style. Origin- 1887), with an impressive fa - Koumoundourou Square ( built by the architect L. Kaftan - ally a two-floor building, in çade, and two small towers at page 71) with Klafthmonos tzoglou. Ayia Eirini, which was 1937 a floor was added and the the sides, dominates the south Square ( page 38). You will the first Cathedral of Athens, is 54. The new building of the building was modified due to side of the square. The central find here a multitude of shops located at a picturesque square, selling spices, sweets, nuts, cof- where one can find a flower National Bank the increased space require- hall is covered with a glass of Greece fee, and traditional oriental market and many small cafes. ments of the Municipality. In roof. In the perimeter are Doric (Aiolou Street). the interior you will find the and Ionian style colonnades. products. paintings of known Greek paint- The building, formerly the resi- 3.8 ers of the 19th century, and dence of V. Melas, houses the AIOLOU frescoes of F. Kontoglou with Cultural Centre of the National STR representations of mythological Bank of Greece. In the eastern A pedestrian zone and historic themes (1937- side of the square is a renais- has been established 1940). You will find a large oil sance style building, the in a large section of painting depicting the Apostle G. Stavrou Mansion, housing the Aiolou Str, which Paul teaching the Athenians services of the National Bank of connects Panepisti - Christian religion (1877) in the Greece. A section of the miou Str with the Municipal Council hall. In the Acharnic Gate of the Themisto- Ro man Market reception room (1st floor), you cleian walls was uncovered and (Plaka). At the cross- will find in special glass-show- is exhibited in the northeastern roads of Aiolou Str cases, small terra cotta figures section of the square. and Sophocleous Str TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 4 HISTORIC CENTRE (1)

55. The 3.9 STADIOU STR modernism in Athens, with ele- 3.16 National Historical “National is a central street – one of the ments of older architectural Museum Reconciliation” styles, it is the work of the monument first paved roads of modern This impressive neoclassical known Greek architect An. Me - on Klafthmonos Athens. It was built on a river construction was built during taxas (1931). Square. bed. It was formerly called the period 1858-1871 according Feidiou Str and Akakiou Str. to the plans of Fr. Boulanger, 3.15 There was a plan to extend the Kolokotroni which were later modified by street to the Panathenaean Square the Greek architect P. Kalkos. Stadium – which was never put a small square, with the Up until 1935 the build- into action – hence the name National Historical ing constituted the Stadiou. Museum and the seat of the Greek 57. The (old) impressive statue Parliament and for Athens Stock 3.10 National Printers of the hero of this reason it is Exchange Building the Greek Revo - called Old mansion (1930). connects Sarantoza Str and lution Th. Kolo - Parliament. Since Arsaki Str. One of the first pub- kotronis on 1961 it houses lic mansions raised in the mod- horseback the collections ern city (1834), it is built in the (L. Sohos, 1904) of the National sionist bronze statue represent- neoclassical style. Before 1905, at its centre. Historical Museum ing the “National Reconcilia - it housed the “National Printers.” Opposite the (for the museum tion” (Doropoulos 1988) stands square (Stadiou Str collections, in the centre of the square. 38 3.11 Klafthmonos 8) is the dilapidated page 94). 39 Square Douila Residence, one of 3.12 “Attikon-Apollon” the oldest buildings of the is a spacious square with inter- building modern city, the work of 58. The statue of Th. Kolokotronis esting buildings (among others, Chr. Hansen. before the building The Museum of the City of Athens, is an eclectic style mansion. of the National Historical Museum. page 98), the former It houses two cinemas, among 56. The building Ministry of Merchant Marine, the oldest of Athens, which have housing the Ministry of Internal Affairs, recently been renovated. the cinema halls the Byzantine church of Ayioi “Attikon” Theodoroi page 25) and a 3.13 Karytsi Square and Apollon” is a small square, named after (1916-1920). multitude of cafes. An impres- the church at its centre. The ele- gant church (built by L. Kaftan - tzoglou) was built at the site of an older church where the Athe - nians in January 1833 selected a deputation to welcome the new king Otto in Nauplion. Opposite the square is the neoclassical style “Parnassos” building.

3.14 Hellenic Telecommunications Organisation (OTE) Mansion an exceptional example of TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 5 HISTORIC CENTRE (2)

Tour of Athens, Stage 5: Following the liberation 60. Two-storey ISTORIC ENTRE (2) of Greece (1833), veteran neoclassical H C freedom fighters and im- building migrants from the at Iroon Square 59. Distinctive provinces settled in the (Psyri). 1 SYRI decorative motif P neighbourhood. They on an old colourful neoclassical opened cottage industries building of the historical AAthens neighbourhood, en- and workshops, which centre of Athens. compassed by Athinas Str, have given the neigh- Ermou Str and Evripidou Str. It is bourhood a distinctive a busy neighbourhood, espe- character. In the early cially in the night. You will find 1990s, following a series on its narrow alleys a multitude of construction works, of cafes, small bars, clubs, the neighbourhood be- restaurants, ouzo-restaurants, came a popular nightlife and taverns with live and residential area. The Greek music, the- churches in the area are atres, galleries, art also quite interesting, galleries, and an- such as Ayioi Anargyroi, tique shops. Ayios Demetrios, Ayios Gregorios (Armenian)), et al. Iroon square, the cen- 40 tral square, is good place 41 for you to start your walk. page 95), Melidoni Str (you will find here the Jewish synagogue 2 ΕRΑΜΕΙΚΟS Κ Beth-Shalom and the “Museum ear the archaeological area of Modern Ceramics”) and N( page 19) is the his- Salaminas Str. In recent years, toric neighbourhood of the area has become one of Kerameikos. Worth seeing are Athens’s popular nightlife hubs Ayion Assomaton Str (with the with many small restaurants, “Museum of Islamic Art”, bars and live-music nightclubs.

61. The Kerameikos neighbourhood lies around the archaeological site. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 5 HISTORIC CENTRE (2)

tion (serving railway lines to THE SIGHTS: the Peloponnese) is a copy in a reduced scale of the 4.1 Marble fountain Constantinople railway station, The marble fountain, located at reflecting the European archi- Metaxourgeio Square, was built tectural trends of the 19th cen- in the 19th century. It was tury. Opposite the Peloponnese transported here from Railway Station is the Larissis Dimopratiriou Square. Railway Station (serving railway THE SIGHTS: lines to central and northern 4.2 Iasonos Str and Greece), built in 1908, in the 3.1 THE GAS WORKS Yiatrakou Str neoclassical style, and later re- 3 GΑZΙ was founded in 1857 and closed Starting at Karaiskaki Square, constructed. he former Gas works is at in 1983. It produced lighting gas take Achileos Str, turn at Iasonos Str, and proceed to Tthe centre of the neigh- for the city. Formerly in the area 5 Agisilaou Str. You will find here ΚΟLONOS bourhood, which was formerly were, among others, wood work- small theatres in historic build- called “Gazohori” (Gas village). shops, foundries, machine-works, f you want to go for ings. Take a right turn at Located in western Athens, it is garages, restaurants, barbers Ia walk, you can visit Akadimou-Yiatrakou the third square of the city, in shops, medical centre. The Gas Kolonos, a working- accordance with the Kleanthis- Str, and proceed to class neighbour- works, a scheduled building, is Schaubert urban plan. It has to Achilleos Str. Take hood of Athens, the only one of its kind in a large extent maintained the note of the near the historic 42 Europe. The buildings have un- 43 colour of a historic Athens small, neoclassi- centre. adorned, neoclassical masonry, neighbourhood. You will find cal (one-storey Although the cafes, bars and luxury restau- a varnished, wooden roof with and two-storey) area has been rants, popular among skylights, covered with Byzantine houses with rebuilt, the 63. The marble Athenians, in a multitude of or French style tiles and sheet- balconies, neighbour- iron. It is an industrial zone, balusters, and fountain old, picturesque buildings. In hood maintains at Metaxourgeio the area, one can choose be- housing a cultural centre of the ornate front its distinct, his- Square. tween different theatres and Athens Municipality doors. At the toric character. theatrical scenes. (“Technopolis.”) crossroads of Starting at Yiatrakou Str and Peloponnese Germanikou Str, Railway Station take 4 ΜETAXOURGEIO is the old section, and on the you will find a small Ioanninon Str, to Ippiou The traditional neighbour- other side (facing Lenorman colourful square (Avdis Kolonou Hill and (take a Πhood in the centre of Str), is the new section. The Square), with cafes, bars and turn at Evripou Str) proceed to Athens was planned by archi- new section, which has been a playground. Skouze Hill. Around these small tect, Chr. Hansen. The name is reconstructed, has not main- wooded hills, you will find an derived from a silk fabric manu- tained the historic character 4.3 The Peloponnese area of detached houses with facture factory, which closed in of the neighbourhood, while in Railway Station gardens and small, elegant 1875. The building still stands the old section a number of Starting at Karaiskaki Square, blocks of flats, preserving the on Meg. Alexandrou Str, between buildings constructed in the take a turn at Diliyianni Str, and atmosphere of the old Athens 62. A view of Mylerou Str and Giatrakou Str traditional style have been pre- you will arrive at this colourful neighbourhood (the nearest the industrial and is undergoing renovation served. In the area, a multitude building, built in 1912-1913, metro stop is “Sepolia”). park at Gazi in order to house the municipal with an architectural design (“Technopolis”), of small restaurants-bars, and the venue Art Gallery and different cultur- cafes are in operation serving combining the neoclassical, of cultural al events. On the one side of traditional oriental drinks, central European and Art and other events. Achilleos Str (facing Piraeus Str) sweets, and food. Nouveau styles. The railway sta- TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 6 HISTORIC CENTRE (3)

Tour of Athens, Stage 6: HISTORIC CENTRE (3) the Philopappou Hill Area

THE SIGHTS: excavation. The main entrance is on Dionyssiou Areopagitou 1.1 The new Acropolis Street ( page 6). In addition, 44 Museum the imposing Weiller building 45 It is one of the most important stands in the vicinity. Having contemporary works of archi- been built by German architect 65. External tecture in Athens. Its construc- W. Von Weiller, it combines view tion, designed by architects Byzantine style masonry and of the Acropolis Museum. B. Tschumi and Mih. Fotiadis neoclassical decorative patterns. was completed in 2007. Stand - Initially it was used as a mili- ing only 300m away from the tary hospital and later as police Acro polis, its total area covers unit headquarters, whereas 21,000 sq.m, while it offers a since 1987 it houses the “Acro- 66. View of the Acropolis display area of 14,000 sq.m. It polis Research Centre” (for muse- 1 MAKRIYIANNI um exhibits, pages 90-91). Museum, is made of steel, glass and con- eastern façade. residential area, enclosed crete; it uses natural light effi- Aby the Dionyssiou ciently so that its 4,000 exhibits Areopagitou Str to the foothills would show off. The last level of Philopappou Hill. The neo- (The Parthenon room) has the classical houses, and the newer dimensions and the direction buildings, (especially buildings of the Parthenon and it has built in the interwar era), are been rotated by 23 degrees in charming. Makriyianni is one relation to the rest of the build- 64. of the most elegant neighbour- ing so that the visitor would View of the hoods of the city. Worth a visit have an immediate view of the archaeological are, among others, Mitsaion Str, monument. The surrounding excavation at the entrance Parthenonos Str, Webster Str, area, visible from the glass of the Acropolis Cavalloti Str, Kallisperi Str, R. floor of the ground level, func- Museum. Gali Str, Mouson Str. tions as an open-air museum- TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 6 HISTORIC CENTRE (3)

which has participated in a 67. A scene 2 ΚΟUΚΑΚΙ 68. The dome of a performance multitude of festivals world- of the National of the “Dora eighbouring Makriyanni is wide, is known in Greece and Observatory, Stratou” theatre. NKoukaki, a district with a abroad. The dancers wear tra- the highest point The dance group friendly, pleasant ambience ditional Greek costumes of var- of Nymphon Hill. comprises of 75 dancers, and interesting sites especially ious regions of the country, and musicians the area near Philopappou hill perform songs and dances of and singers. (Panaitoliou Str, Arakinthou Str). all periods of Greece’s history. 3 ΑΝO PΕΤRALONA 3.2 Mercouri Square is a colourful square, with small charming, colourful neigh- cafes, and traditional tavernas, bourhood, exuding the at- A in the nearby streets. mosphere of 1950’s Athens. Several examples of working- class urban architecture are 3.3 Stone-built houses preserved, among others, one- An attractive, small neighbour- storey and two storey houses. hood -in the area of Apolloniou Str and Troon Str- with stone- THE SIGHTS: built houses, (of the post-war houses and public mansions. 4.3 National period), exuding the atmos- Have a drink at one of the out- Observatory 3.1 Dora Stratou phere of a mountain village, is door cafes at Thission Square 46 Theatre being redeveloped. the oldest research institution 47 (at Apostolou Pavlou Str), and of Greece and the Balkans, was is located west of the hill enjoy a unique view of the founded in 1842. The building (ancient Amphitheatre). 4 TΗISSIO Acropolis and the Ancient of the Observatory at Nymphon You can see performances of Agora area. hill (which took its name from Greek folk dances by the Dora he area was named after the sanctuary with the same Stratou dance group. Dora Tthe nearby ancient temple 4.1 Irakleidon Str name that stood there in antiq- Stratou dedicated her life to the ( page 17). A traditional is the central pedestrian zone uity), opposite the Acropolis research and preservation of neighbourhood with a multi- of the area, with attractive neo- and the Ancient Agora, was de- Greek folk art. The group, tude of charming neoclassical signed by Th. Hansen. It is an classical buildings. Here, and at 69. Ap. Pavlou Akamantos Str, which is parallel attractive neoclassical building. Street to Irakleidon Str, you will find The building is cruciform, fac- in the vicinity a multitude of cafes and bars, ing the four compass points. of the Thissio. open all day. Moreover, in the nearby pedestrian zone at Eptahalkou Str you will find tra- ditional tavernas with Mediterranean cuisine.

4.2 D. Aiginitou Str connects Apostolou Pavlou Str with the National Observatory. It has a unique view of the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill, the Ancient Agora and the new city. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 6 HISTORIC CENTRE (3) TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 7

Tour of Athens, Stage 7: 70. The 4.4 Ayia Marina Square renovated is a colourful, quiet square, platforms Κ ΟLONAKI with Ayia Marina church (19th of the Thission metro station, century) at its centre. In the THE R IGILLIS A REA - one of the oldest north-western side, sculpted in- stations to the rock, lies the original cha- Μ ΕΤZ of the network. pel, with a posterior dome and

frescoes of the 13th century.

4.5 Thissio Park is the north-western section of the Ancient Agora archaeologi- 71. cal site. It was planted with The popular cafes of Thissio trees in 1862 and ornamental Square offer plants in 1931. Formerly it was an unobstructed the area where Athenians cele- view of the brated Easter. Ancient Agora and of the 4.6 Acropolis. Poulopoulos Hat-factory (66, Iraklidon Str) mark that housed a hat-factory is a noteworthy industrial 48 many years, is a scheduled 49 building with interesting ma- building. The space is used for sonry and a tiled roof. The various purposes (“Melina building, an important land- Mercouri” Cultural Centre).

72. Located at Kolonaki are some of the best-known fashion companies. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 7 KOLONAKI - THE RIGILLIS AREA - METZ

1 ΚΟLOΝΑΚΙ Str, Fokylidou Str, Karneadou Str, You will find here an old aque- 1.6 Voukourestiou Str 75. A view Loukianou Str, Ploutarchou Str, duct and an open-air cinema. distinctive Athens road, it con- of Kolonaki olonaki is situated at an ex- from the foot Haritos Str, Spefsipou Str and the nects the foot of Lycabettus hill clusive location, encom- of Lycabettus K Lykabettos circular. 1.3 Skoufa Str with Syntagma Square. In the passed by Syntagma Square, hill. A series is the central street of pedestrian zone (linking of steps lead THE SIGHTS: Kolonaki, with interesting neo- Academias Str to Panepistimiou to the top. classical and art deco style Str), you will find a multitude 1.1 Kolonaki Square buildings. Along the street of attractive cafes and bars. (Philikis Etairias Square) (from the Kolonaki square to- When you visit Athens you wards Neapoli), one would find 1.7 Marasleio should have a coffee at one of many shopping centres, con- An impressive neoclassical the cafes at Kolonaki Square. temporary cafes, and small bars building (at the crossroads of Modern Athenians and foreign with a distinct air, particularly Marasli Str and Spefsipou Str), visitors enjoy a break at one of popular all day long. it is the work of architect the cafes, eating, drinking cof- D. Kallias (1905) and houses fee and chatting. 1.4 Ayios Dionyssios the education Institute “Mara - (Skoufa Str) sleios Academy of primary edu- 1.2 Dexamenis Square a stately church, was built in cation”. is a small square, which serves the early 1930’s at the site of an as a local recreation ground. earlier church. The façade is 1.8 Taxiarhes The traditional café on the built in a neo-renaissance style, (the church of the Petraki 50 square attracts Athenians and and the interior is decorated in Monastery in Kolonaki, 51 Vassilisis Sofias Avenue and visitors. It was the meeting the Byzantine style. Ayios page 26). the slopes of Lycabettus place of intellectuals in the Dionyssios Hill. It was named after 20th century. Areopagitis, one 73. Tsakalof the old column (the of Athens’ early Street, one of Greek for small col- Christians, is the the central roads umn is kolonaki), in patron saint of Kolonaki, of Athens. with a multitude the centre of Kolonaki Shopping in of cafes Square. The area was Kolonaki. 1.5 and commercial not developed before shops, the 1880’s. In Kolonaki In Kolonaki you will Lycavittou is a busy street. you will find parks and attrac- find the most fash- Square tive buildings, built predomi- ionable boutiques, with high cou- is located near nantly in the neoclassical and ture items produced by Greek and Ayios Dionyssios modernist architectural style, international designers, among (at the crossroads lending the area a distinguished others, shoes, and leather goods, of Lycavittou Str character. It is considered the toys, old furniture, jewellery, house and Anagnostopou- “aristocratic” neighbourhood of ware. At Voukourestiou Str and the lou Str). Domina - Athens. You will find here the surrounding area - in the vicinity of ting the square

most expensive commercial is the Dragoumis Syntagma Square - you will find 74. A traditional shops, po pular cafes and mod- Mansion (1925), world-famous Greek jewellers, silver bracelet ern bars, and luxury restau- a private resi- (19th century), rants. If you seek diversion and bookshops specialising in foreign dence, which for- from the Eastern language editions, and major gal- Thrace region relaxation, go for a stroll at merly accommo- (Benaki Patriarchou Ioakim Str, Tsakalov leries exhibiting the works of Greek dated the Brazilian Museum). Str, Anagnosto poulou Str, Milioni painters and sculptors. Embassy. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 7 KOLONAKI - THE RIGILLIS AREA - METZ

76. The Greek 1.9 Gennadios Library 2 SYNTAGMA when you ask direc- Parliament Impressive building in the clas- SQUARE tions if people refer dominating sicistic style, which was inaugu- to Syntagma square. the east side yntagma Square is Athens’ rated in 1926 to house the Plaka, the Acropo - of Syntagma central square. The name of book collection (a total of S lis, the Cathedral, Square. the square is derived from an 26,000 volumes) donated in the National Garden, uprising on 3 September 1843, 1922 by the scholar I. Genna - Ermou Str, and of the people and the guard of dios to the American School of Kolonaki, are locat- Athens before the then Royal Classi cal Studies at Athens. In ed in the vicinity Palace building, (what is now 1960 the building was expand- of Syntagma Square. the Parliament), demanding ed. It is surrounded by a large You will find fash- that King Otto grant a Consti - garden with lush vegetation ionable cafes and tution (Syntagma means Consti - (for the library’s collections small restaurants tu tion). Syntagma Square and and books, page 99). located here. Omonias Square are the two The square is busy central locations of the city. around the clock. You should not be surprised At the kiosks you will find miscella- neous items, among others souvenirs, newspapers, and foreign magazines. 52 2.2 Monument of the 53 THE SIGHTS: Unknown Soldier Built from 1929-1932, in front 2.1 THE PARLIAMENT of Parliament, it is a sculpted Dominating Syntagma Square, depiction of a slain soldier (the the building was the residence work of sculptor K. Dimitria - of the first king of Greece Otto. des), bearing an inscription The building was constructed with excerpts of Pericle’s from 1836 to 1842. George A’, Epitaph. Commemorated on who succeeded Otto on the the marble wall surrounding throne, also resided in the the monument are the greatest palace. During his reign, two battles of the Greek army pos- successive fires destroyed the terior to 1821. Greek and visit- building, making it unsuitable ing officials lay a wreath at the for use as a royal residence. In monument on national holi- 1924 the government decided days. The monument is guard- to situate Parliament in the ed around the clock by two se- building. Reconstruction work lect troops, called Evzones, who was completed in 1934. The in- wear the traditional uniform. terior was redesigned by archi- The ceremony of the changing tect A. Kriezis. In Parliament of the guard, which takes place you will find national treasures, every hour, is worth seeing, es- 77. The monumental such as the first Greek pecially on Sunday morning space Constitution, and a multitude of (11 a.m.), when it is accompa- of the valuable paintings. The library nied by a military band and a “Unknown is worth a visit. large regiment of Evzones. Soldier.” TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 7 KOLONAKI - THE RIGILLIS AREA - METZ

You will find here attractive Vassilisis Sofias Avenue, Irodou structed from 1874-1888. In 79. One neoclassical buildings and, at Attikou Str, Vassilisis Amalias the past few years some of the of a multitude the crossroads of Philellinon Avenue, and two entrances con- most significant events in the of refreshment Str, Xenofontos Str and Souri necting the National Garden to history of the country have tak- stands Str, the Sotira Lykodimou the Zappeion. You will also find en place in the “Conferences at the verdant National church ( page 24) and the here a small pond, a small zoo, and Exhibitions Mansion,” such Garden. Anglican church of Saint Paul the Botanical Museum, a tradi- as European summits, the an- (1843) ), the work of Ch. tional café, a children’s library, a nouncement of election results, Hansen, with elements of playground, various monuments and significant political an- Gothic style and cruciform of antiquity, and the busts of im- nouncements. Moreover, art ex- shape. portant personalities of modern hibitions and occasionally con- Greece (among others, politi- certs are held here. In the 2.6 Amalias Avenue cians and authors). vicinity of the mansion are the is a broad avenue connecting statues of the Zappas brothers, Hadrian’s Arch ( page 6) who funded the construction with Syntagma Square. An ele- THE SIGHTS: of the building, and an attrac- 2.3 “Grande Bretagne” gant street with stately neoclas- tive park, where Athenians go 3.1 ΖAPPEION Hotel sical and modernist buildings, for a walk, especially on MANSION a luxury hotel, built in 1842. it is located in the vicinity of Sundays. Near the Zappeion an attractive building designed The building, designed as a pri- the National Garden. As you as- Mansion is a luxury café and an by Th. Hansen, it was con- vate residence, was the work of cend towards Syntagma Square, opain-air cinema. Th. Hansen. Renovated in 1874, you will have a view of 54 55 it accommodated a hotel. In Parliament and, in the distance, 1958 the hotel was reconstruct- Licabettus Hill. ed to meet increasing demand, and several floors were added 3 NATIONAL to the structure. In 2003 the ARDEN building was completely reno- G vated. The hotel is connected he National Garden, open to major events of Greek histo- Tfrom dawn to sunset, is an ry. A multitude of notables and oasis in the centre of the city. celebrities visiting Athens It has a total area of 160,000 stayed here. Worth a visit is the m2. Some five hundred differ- interior, with a café and luxury ent kinds of plants, bushes and restaurant, exuding a unique at- trees from various locations mosphere. around the world are grown here (in total, it has 7,000 trees 2.4 Ancient aqueduct and 40,000 bushes). At the same time, it comprises an im- A section of the ancient ceme- portant natural life reserve in tery and Peisitstratos aqueduct, 78. Athens as many different unearthed in the northeastern The hotel species of birds, hedge- section of the square, is dis- “Grande hogs,turtles, ducks and even played in an outdoor, covered Bretagne” bats are gathered here. The dominating area. the north- National Garden - which was formerly the palace garden - eastern side 2.5 Philellinon Str of Syntagma was laid out from 1838-1860. Square. is a prolongation of Stadiou Str. There are six entrances: at TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 7 KOLONAKI - THE RIGILLIS AREA - METZ

(1927), the marble Wood-chop- 82. The per by D. Filippotis, 1872- “Xylothrafstis” 1875) – gymnast V. Yiannoulis (“woodchopper”), posed for the work – and the one of the Statue of G. Karaiskakis, a distinctive statues bronze monumental sculpture of Athens. (4.40 metres high), by M. Tombros (1963-1966), de- picting a hero of the Greek rev- olution on horseback.

5 PANATHENAIKON (KALLIMARMARO) STADIUM he Panathenaikon Stadium, Ta remarkable construction, was made of white marble. The petal shaped stadium is located Panathenaean festival ( page 4 THE RIGILLIS the President of the Hellenic facing the National Garden. 20). The stadium that stands to- AREA Republic. It is surrounded by In 330 BC a stadium made of day has a capacity of approx. an attractive 6 acre garden. The prestigious area with luxu- wood was built at this location. 60,000 spectators. It was built mansion is guarded by 56 ry residential buildings, vil- Herodes Atticus constructed a in 1869-1870 and it was the 57 A Evzones, wearing a distinctive las and abundant vegetation. marble construction, which was venue of the first Olympic uniform. It is encompassed by Vassilisis the model for the construction Games in modern history Sofias Avenue, Rigillis Str, of the stadium that stands to- (1896). Surrounding the stadi- 83. The 80. Zappeion Vassileos Konstantinou Avenue 4.2 Maximou Mansion day. It was used as a space for um is the wooded Ardittos Hill, Presidential Mansion. and Irodou Attikou Str. The area (Irodou Attikou Str) athletic competitions, which where local residents go for a Mansion, Eight pairs at Herodou is located in the vicinity of the took place during the of Corinthian the official residence of the re- walk. Attikou Street. columns old palace (now the spective Greek prime minister, can be seen Presidential Mansion). it was designed in 1924 by Ant. on its forefront. Helmis. The mansion THE SIGHTS: was constructed fol- lowing the death 4.1 of Helmis, by Presidential his wife, and her new hus- 81. The dome Mansion band D. Maxi - of the atrium (Irodou Attikou Str) mos. It has a small at Zappeion The former Royal garden. Mansion, with palace, three storeyed, bear- the two-storey ing profound neoclassical and stoa. elite elements (1890-1897), de- 4.3 The statues signed by the architect Ern. The sculptures at the junction Ziller. Formerly it was used as of Irodou Attikou Str (facing the residence of the princes- Kallimarmaro Stadium) are heirs to the Hellenic Royal among the most attractive in Crown, later as a palace, and in Athens: the Discus thrower, a 1974 as the official residence of bronze statue by K. Dimitriades TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 7 KOLONAKI - THE RIGILLIS AREA - METZ

outdoor sculpture display, with stones, built by some of the a stately and serene garden, ex- most important Greek sculptors cellent monumental tomb- of the past two centuries.

THE SIGHTS:

Koimomeni: The most famous sculpture of modern Greek art, made by Y. Halepas in 1878, for the grave of S. Afentakis. G. Averof Monument: The grandest monument of the ceme- tery, built by the sculptors G. Vitalis and D. Filippotis. The remains of the national benefactor are here. Hein. Schliemann Monument: The tomb monument of the German archaeologist who discovered ancient Troy, made by Ern. Ziller (1892). It is shaped like a church. On the groundwork are sculpted depictions of the Trojan Cycle. Chr. Zografos Monument: Built in the renaissance style, it re- 6 ΕΤZ If you take Kleitomachou Str, calls the Mausoleum of Lawrence of Medici in Florence. Μ Arhimidou Str and Embedokleous Nude Angel: A remarkable tombstone sculpture by ne of the most fashionable Str, you will reach Varnava 58 G. Vitsaris (1872), on the tomb of N. Koumelis. 59 Oneighbourhood of Athens, square. You will find here cafes, was developed in the 1870’s. It traditional tavernas and luxury was named after the Metz restaurants. You can return to brewery that was located in the 84. The the Panathenaikon Stadium via Panathenaikon area, and for a long time it was Agras Str. (Kallimarmaro) a popular recreational area. In Stadium. the 1950’s the riverbed of the 7 Ilissos (at Ardittou 1st CEMETERY Str). passed t is the oldest through it. Iand biggest Today it is a cemetery of quiet residen- Athens. Several tial area, en- important per- compassed by sonalities of the Ardittou modern Greece hill and the have been laid to 1st Cemetery rest here (among 85. One of the distinctive (along the others, politi- “Hermes” statues Loginou Str cians, scientists , facing the track pedestrian zone). In the central artists, religious leaders etc). 86. The famous of the Pana- road of the area, M. Mousourou The foundation of the cemetery “Koimomeni” thenaikon Str, are cafes. Worth seeing are coincided with the foundation by Y. Halepas Stadium. other distinctive roads of the of the modern Greek state. The (1st Cemetery). One faces the grandstand neighbourhood (among others, design recalls the major ceme- and the other Nik. Theotokis Str, Trivonianou teries of Western Europe in the faces the track. Str, Dikaiarchou Str, Balanou Str). early 1900’s. It is basically an TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 8 FROM LYCABETTUS HILL TO STREFI HILL

Tour of Athens, Stage 8: 88. The view of the city and FROM the Acropolis from the top L YCABETTUS H ILL of Lycabettus TO S TREFI H ILL Hill is unique!

60 61

1 LYCABETTUS (LYCAVITTOS) HILL Mount Penteli ( page 103), Zeus. By the time Athens was forest in the heart and took a large rock with the liberated from the Turkish oc- Αof the city, it is purpose of placing it on the ex- cupation, Lycabettus Hill had considered by isting rock. As she transported no trees at all. Reforestation Athenians one of the the rock, two black birds ap- started in 1880 and was com- most favourite places proached her, bringing her bad pleted in 1915. for hiking, resting and news regarding something she relaxing in the different had to take care of immediate- THE SIGHTS: cafes and restaurants ly. In her rage and haste, the operating there. rock fell in the centre of The view of the city: Don’t According to mytholo- Athens. The rock, which is 278 miss the view of the Acropolis 87. gy, goddess Athena metres high, is located in the and of the entire city Walking wanted her temple in centre of Athens. In ancient extending up to the sea. You on the footpaths of Lycabettus Acropolis to be closer times the hill was covered by will also en joy walking along Hill to heaven. One stormy lush vegetation and on its top narrow paths all the way to is a pleasure. night she went to stood a temple dedicated to the top of the hill. TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 8 FROM LYCABETTUS HILL TO STREFI HILL

1.1 tude of important neoclassical, Lycabettus Theatre 2 NΕΑPOLI An open-air theatre built from eclectic and modernist build- 1964-1965 by the architect eapoli is encompassed by ings are preserved. Following T. Zenetos at the site of an old NLycabetus hill and the renovation works, the mine following the recommen- Mavromihali Str. It is, after neighbourhood attracted a new dation of the Greek actress Plaka, the oldest neighbourhood generation of residents. Go for A. Synodinou, for performances of Athens (Neapoli means New a walk in the pedestrian zone of ancient drama. It has a ca- Town). Neapoli and Exarhia of Themistocleous Str (from pacity of 3,000. In summer cul- were developed in 1860. The Themistocleous Square to tural events are staged here, at- first residents were mostly stu- Kallidromiou Str) and other dents. The area is situated near pedestrian zones of the area 89. Lycabettus tracting music and theatre fans. the University and the Poly - (among others, Valetsiou Str, 4 STREFI HILL 90. A detail Theatre. of the balcony technic. Later it be- Methonis Str, Eresou Str), a quiet trefi hill is located in the of a neo- came a favourite area, and rest in a café, bar or Svicinity of Exarheia Square, classical house residential neigh- traditional taverna. and despite of its relatively in Exarhia. bourhood of artists. small size (approximately 12.5 At Asklipiou is the THE SIGHTS: acres) it forms a green oasis in remarkable neo- the densely built city. It was classical church 3.1 Exarhia Square planted with trees in the of Ayios Nikolaos is the central square of the decade of the 1920’s, until then Pefkakion (1895). neighbourhood. It is a busy it was used as a quarry. Facing Lycabettus square, with a vivid night life. Nowadays one will find here 62 63 Hill, is an area on a You will find here a multitude of sport facilities, ouzo bars, an steep incline, with cafes and small, trendy bars and open-air theatre made of stone, pedestrian zone, two open-air cinemas,offering and at the top you may enjoy lined with trees unique entertainment in the a panoramic view of the city. and steps leading summer. Also, in the neighbour- To get there, you take to the central roads ing streets apart from the many Kallidromiou Str, a beautiful (among others, restaurants and café-bars, one street, with neoclassical man- Solonos Str., Asklipiou Str, would find unique shops selling sions and small popular cafes 1.2 Ayios Georgios Ippokratous Str, Sina Str, Massalias clothes, old records, books and and bars, (from Emm. Benaki ( page 26) Str,and Delfon Str) where you hand-made jewellery. Str to Deliyianni Str). will find, among others, a multi- 1.3 Ayioi Isidoroi tude of cafes, small bookshops, 91. Exarhia ( page 26) antique shops. Square.

GETTING THERE: If you want to 3 XARHIA go by car, there is only one E road leading to the top of the n old Athens neighbour- hill. If you want to walk there Ahood, with a special charm. are a multitude of footpaths. It is known as a residential You may also use the funicular, neighbourhood of students and which operates daily from the artists, with a Bohemian charac- crossroads of Aristippou Str and ter, contrasting with the “world- Ploutarchou Str (Kolonaki). ly” Kolonaki Square. In the past few decades, a series of recon- struction works have consider- ably upgraded the area. A multi- TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 9 FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE TO OMONIA SQUARE

Tour of Athens, Stage 9: FROM S YNTAGMA S QUARE TO O MONIA S QUARE

1 SYNTAGMA SQUARE ( page 52)

2 PANEPISTIMIOU rennaissance style. It was the AVENUE residence of the German ar- (EL. VENIZELOU) chaeologist and philhelene Hein. Schliemann. It has a dou- ne of the oldest roads of THE SIGHTS: ble stairway in the northern OAthens, it was originally side, while in the façade and 64 designed to be a Boulevard 2.1 Army Pension the other two floors, are colon- 65 (formerly called Boulevard Str). Funds Building nades with ionic columns. 2.3 Today it is one of the busiest A stately building occupying The interior is decorated with Archaeological roads, linking Syntagma Square the block encompassed by “Pompeian” frescoes and de- Society Mansion with Omonia Square. On this Panepistimiou Str, Voukoure - pictions of the landscapes and A five-storey building, it is an broad avenue, a number of the stiou Str, Amerikis Str and finds of Troy. In 1927 it became exceptional example of late most important, representative Stadiou Str, it was built from the seat of the Supreme Court classicism. The entrance is dec- public buildings of Athens were 92. Iliou 1927-1938. The royal stables (the highest penal court of the orated with ionic columns. Melathron built, unique landmarks of the were formerly located here. country). It houses now the Nu- Located at the crossroads of also known city. The façade was built in the Art misma tic Museum ( page 92). Omirou Str and Panepistimiou as “Schliemann Deco style. In the centre is an Avenue, it houses the Archaeo - Mansion.” arcade with shops. Recently re- logical Society of Athens. constructed, the building is now a shopping centre and an 2.4 Catholic Church office building, while it incor- of Ayios Dionyssios (1853- porates three theatres (the 1865) (Panepistimiou Avenue “Pallas”, the “Small Pallas” and and Omirou Str) the “Aliki” Theatre), cafes and The three columned, cross-in- restaurants. square style church was de- signed by the architects L. von 2.2 Iliou Melathron Klenze and L. Kaftantzoglou. (12, Panepistimiou Str) The portico in the western side 93. The catholic is one of the most attractive has five cylindrical arches (it is church of Ayios neoclassical buildings of located at the crossroads of Dionyssios Athens. It was reconstructed in Panepistimiou Avenue and (Panepistimiou 1879 by Ern. Ziller in the neo- Omirou Str). Street). TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 9 FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE TO OMONIA SQUARE

unadorned, stately atmosphere 94. A detail of the central of the interwar period. entrance of the Athens THE THREE TEMPLES Eye-Clinic. OF LEARNING (“Athenian Trilogy”) Three stately buildings con- structed by two Danish archi- tects, the Hansen brothers, who lived in Greece.

2.7 Athens Academy (1859-1887): On either side of the Academy, are two wings 2.5 Athens Eye-Clinic decorated with friezes and (Panepistimiou Avenue and a pair of high columns Sina Str) supporting the statues of A stately building (1854) with Apollo and Athena, whereas at elements of Byzantine and neo- the front side of the building classical architecture, it was de- the visitors are welcomed by signed by Ch. Hansen and mod- the statues of Plato and 66 ified by L. Kaftantzoglou. Form - Socrates. The Academy was 2.9 National Library 67 erly a one-storey building, in studied by Th. Hansen, produced by K. Rahl. (1887-1902): A remarkable the mid-1860’s a second floor the younger of the Hansen The Academy is thought to be building, planned by Th. Hansen. brothers. The statues were 97. Panoramic was added to the structure. a prime example of Greek It is the largest library in the view of the neo- sculpted by L. Drosis and architectural style. country, housing a unique classical “Athen- the painted decoration was 2.6 Bank of Greece ian Trilogy”. Mansion On the left, the National (Panepistimiou Str 21) Library, the Uni- A stately building occupying a versity and the whole block. The foundations Athens Academy 95. The stately were laid in 1933 and the can be seen. building Behind them building was opened in 1938. stands the of the Athens The transactions halls recall the Academy. building of the Cultural Center 2.8 University (1839- of the Athens 1864): The University of Municipality Athens was designed by and the Palamas Ch. Hansen, the elder of the Building. Hansen brothers. Worth seeing 98. Over are the fountain in the court, the central the circular stairway and the entrance multicoloured frescoes with of the Athens classical themes (designed by University 96. The Statue of Apollo (see right) are the Bavarian K. Rahl), decorat - at the top of an Ionian style the frescoes column, at the entrance ing the walls, located behind of the Bavarian of the Athens Academy. the columns on the balcony. K. Rahl (see left). TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 9 FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE TO OMONIA SQUARE

tional café. Exactly adjacent to 2.13 Arsakeion custom, Athenians, after a night 101. Two silver the café (at Akadimias Str) is the Mansion (1846-1855) out Saturday evening, buy domes decorating stately Palamas building (with a A stately two-storey mansion, it Sunday papers at kiosks and the tower-like pink interior, it is known as the is a distinctive example of stands on the square. Omonia is “pink building”). Built in 1857- the oldest central square corners Greek classicism with a of the Arsakeio 1859, it houses the Theatrical strain of eclecticism. of modern Athens. Megaro facing Museum library. Diagonally Formerly the A visit to Omonia, Stadiou Street. across the street, (at the cross- Arsakeion Girls to get a sense of roads of Ippocratous Str and School, it is now the vibrancy of the 99. The range of thousands of books Akadimias Str), is the Student the Council of square is a must construction in all languages. On the façade Union of the University of Athens State, (highest for all visitors. of the National is a stately six-column portico (1926-1931), designed by Al. Court of State). At the square you Library in the Doric style, based on Nikoloudis in the eclectic style Adjacent to the will find the usual was funded by of the Beaux Arts. fast-food shops. P. Vallianos. the design of the Thiseion. mansion is the Foreign newspapers In the The interior, designed by Ern. Courts Square. 2.11 foreground Ziller, is lighted by a skylight Korai Square are sold in kiosks. the statue on the roof and encompassed is a small, attractive square, de- 2.14 Arsakeion At the square are stately of the donor. by an Ionian style colonnade. veloped when a pedestrian Arcade (Orfeos): The arcade buildings, in particular the street was created at Korai Str. in the Mansion, built in the hotels “Bangeion” and 2.10 Cultural Centre North-east of the square is the neobaroque style, has a “Alexandros” (at the crossroads of the Athens Municipality Rallis building (10, Korai remark able glass roof with a of Athinas Str,) the “Neon” café, Located in the vicinity of the Square) built in the early neo- dome in the centre. You will and a branch of the National 68 69 “trilogy” (at Akadimias Str 50), classical style. Opposite the find here shops, cafes and the Bank (at Panepistimiou Str). it is a remarkable neoclassical Rallis building is the modernist “Stoa tou Vivliou”, (Book At Omonia Square is a central building which was built in building of the General Arcade) with the bookshops metro station. Accounting Office (designed by of 60 Greek publishing E. Lazaridis). Northwest of the houses. Cultural events are square is the remarkable for- held at the Stoa tou Vivliou. 4 THE OMONIA mer hotel Grand Hotel (2, Korai SQUARE AREA Square, today used as a shop- 2.15 “Rex” Cinema tadiou Str, Patision Str, Pane- ping centre). Opposite the 102. A view of A mansion with three halls pistimiou Avenue, 3rd Omonia Square Grand Hotel is the modern S (cine ma-theatre), built from Septemvriou Str, Piraeus Str, with buildings building of the Commercial 1935-1937, the design was in- Athinas Str and Ayiou Konstanti- of a variety Bank. At the square you will al- fluenced by contemporary nou Str converge at Omonia of architectural so find the recently renovated Ame rican skyscrapers. Two styles. “Korai Arcade” with a multitude halls are now used for perform- of cafes, fast food restaurants, ances of the National Theatre. shops, and a cinema. The third is an entertainment 1835 according to the design of centre. Chr. Hansen. It was a hospital in 2.12 Ionian Bank Mansion (Pesmatzoglou Str) the course of decades. Cultural 3 events are held in the building. A remarkable eclectic style OMONIA SQUARE 100. In front of the main entrance of mansion with art deco decora- central square, which is The Cultural the building is a small garden tion (1925). The central transac- busy around the clock, Centre Α with the busts of historical fig- tions hall has a notable colon- throughout the year, by contrast of the Athens Municipality ures (among others, artists and nade and balconies. The light- with Syntagma Square. Omonia and its small politicians), while on the other ing, a skylight with stained glass Square has always been busy garden. side, (at Solonos Str), is a tradi- windows, is spectacular. around the clock. According to TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 9 FROM SYNTAGMA SQUARE TO OMONIA SQUARE

4.4 with copies of the famous twin 4.2 ΑYIOS Koumoundourou Caryatids on the balcony. The KONSTANTINOS Square (Eleftherias) (Ayiou Konstantinou Str) An attractive, wooded square. house, is among the most pho- Facing Pireos Str is the tographed and painted themes Facing the National Theatre, it is of Athens. a monumental church (1871- grand neoclassical man- 1896/1905) built by L. Kaftan - sion of the “Municipal Gallery” built in 4.6 Gazi tzoglou. The recently renovated ( page 42) three-columned, cross-in-square 1874 (designed by G. Metaxas). church has a stately façade in a 4.7 Botanical Neighbouring the 104. Copies combination of neoclassical and Garden renaissance styles, a monumen- gallery is the small of the Caryatids, of the Athens at the small tal entrance in the form of an church of Ayioi University house at 45, ancient propylaea, and an attrac- Anargyroi (1893). Located on the Located at the cross- Ayion tive interior decoration. Assomaton Str. square is a small roads of Iera Odos, stone-built theatre, which in Greek means Square. It is a busy area, with 4.3 PIREOS STR which is used for events. Sacred Road (built along with small roads around Omonia (P. Tsaldari Str) the path of the ancient road of Square and Kaniggos Square and Constructed along the path of 4.5 Ayion Assomaton Str the Eleusinian Mysteries interesting places (small shops, the ancient road linking Athens As you descend Pireos Str take page 115) and Sp. Patsi Str. It has traditional cafes etc.). 2 to Piraeus. The Long Walls were a left turn at Ayion Assomaton a total area of 7,000 m . Some constructed along the side of Str. You will find at number 45 120 varieties of trees and plants 70 THE SIGHTS: 71 the street. The first paved road one of the best-known tradi- and mosses and grasses from in Athens, Pireos Str links the tional buildings of Athens (pic- different parts of the world. 4.1 THE NATIONAL city with the port of Piraeus. turesque classicist style, 1880), THEATRE OF GREECE In the 19th century an industrial (Ayiou Konstantinou Str) zone was developed and a mul- Built from 1891-1901, accord- titude of factories were con- ing to the design of Ern. Ziller, structed along the road. In the it was commissioned by the past few years a multitude of king George I and funded by factories were renovated and Greeks residing abroad. A rep li- used for another purpose (mu- ca of the National Theatre of seums, cultural centres, the Vienna, it is built in the renais- Higher School of Fine Arts). sance style. The theatre opened The buildings at Pireos Str, a in November 1901. It was for- very busy street, are interesting merly called the Royal Theatre, examples of urban industrial ar- but in 1930 it was renamed chitecture. At number 138 of National Theatre. The central Pireos Str one will find a mod- auditorium (Italian style) has ern building that houses the new a capacity of 1000 spectatores Benaki Museum where periodic (stalls, dress circle, upper circle, exhibits of the Museum are held and two boxes). Facing the the- ( page 94). At number 254, 103. atre (at Menandrou Str) is the Tauros area stands the Civilisa- Panepistimiou three-storey neoclassical Eynard tion Centre “Hellenic Cosmos” 105. Avenue by night, The Botanical at the junction Mansion, which accommodates established by the Foundation Garden with Omonia a Museum dedicated to actors of the Hellenic world ( of the Athens Square. K. Paxinou and A. Minotis. page 99). University.