An Enchanting Place, A Colourful Past

Donegal County Archives/Cartlann Chontae Dhún na nGall Acknowledgements

Produced by Ms. Irene Haggan for The Archives Service, County Council Contents

The author would like to thank the following for their assistance: Map of Sites to Visit 4

Contribution to research Welcome to Malin Head 6 Carol Dempsey Ciara Joyce Setting the Scene: Weaving History, Archaeology and Folklore 8 Images appear courtesy of Andy McInroy Malin Town 20 Daniel Love Donegal County Archives Service Striking Features of the Natural Landscape 22 Irene Haggan National Library of Living in the Northern Extremity 25 Seán Beattie The Restless Ocean 27 Map designed by Daragh McDonagh, I.S Services, War, Weather and Communications 30 Donegal County Council 35 Graphic Design by Neilis Sheridan References 38

ISBN No. 978-0-9574403-4-0 4 5 Welcome to Malin Head

Malin Head is renowned as “Ireland’s most northerly point” but perhaps there are few who recognise the implications of this unique fact; how it compliments and contributes to the richness of its history, heritage, and landscape. The word “Malin” comes from the Irish word, Malainn, meaning braeface or hillbrow. This description falls short of capturing the dramatic and untamed beauty of this headland in all its “solitary loveliness and bewitching grandeur.”1 In this booklet, the captivating charm of Malin Head and its surrounding area is depicted through a weave of history, local folklore and natural heritage.

Malin Head lies 15.3 km north of the village of Malin. ’s Crown is the most northerly point of Malin Head and it is from here one can see and Head lighthouse, heralding the entrance to . Among other visible headlands to the west are , Bloody Foreland and Dunaff Head. To the northeast lies Inishtrahull Island and looking beyond this island one can see the hills of western Scotland, and the island of , on a clear day.

1 Maghtochair, : Its History, Traditions, and Antiquities, (Londonderry: The ‘The Scheldrín’ Journal Office, 1867), p. 126

6 7 Setting the Scene: A Weave of History, Archaeology and Folklore

Of Priests and Pagans

Inishowen or “Island of Eoghan” this remote parish had a turbulent is so named because in the 5th past. Strategically located at the century this peninsula, which was tip of the most northerly Irish once an archipelago of islands, came peninsula, Cloncha was the site of under the rule of Eoghan, son of the many historical battles against rival powerful and fearsome Irish king, Celts (Irish and Scottish), Vikings Niall of the Nine Hostages. Malin and the English. Evidence of Viking Head is one of three distinct areas invasions are to be found in Old of Malin parish, with Malin town to Norse location names at Malin the south and Glengad to the west Head. Examples include Ineuran completing the triad. In the past Bay (which translates as “small this northernmost parish in Ireland sheltered harbour”) and Scheildrén was more commonly known by (which translates as “shield”).2 The its ecclesiastical title of Cloncha Scheldrín are the impressive sea (Cluain Catha); meaning battlefield. stacks located at the north-western The remains of souterrains and tip of the headland. promontory forts dotted along the Malin coastline are evidence that

View of Doon Promontory 2 The Malin Head Trail, http://malinhead.ie/MH/Malin_Head_Trail.html

8 9 in 1816, Reverend Edward Doon fort flanks the western A Legacy of Chichester referred to local end of the bay below a ruined men in Malin who repeated church and cave. A natural tunnel Prehistoric Malin fragments of Ossian’s poems goes through the rock on the that had faithfully been passed landward side. Folklore claims As a peninsula, Inishowen was Note: The exact location of down through generations of that the smooth hollowed rock the ideal location for Ireland’s archaeological sites in Malin oral tradition.6 In 1837, a separate in the middle of the tunnel was earliest inhabitants: nomadic can be seen on the account by topographer Samuel the “saint’s chair” while the “red- hunter-gatherers who hugged the Archaeological Survey Database Lewis noted that nearby place- coloured rock of the roof above is a coastline, reliant on seafood as of the National Monuments names corresponded with events blood-stain, made as the saint was part of their staple diet. Evidence Service website, and is accessed recorded in Ossian’s poems.7 murdered where he sat”.8 of these Mesolithic people include via http://webgis.archaeology.ie/ flint implements and shell middens NationalMonuments/FlexViewer/ (ancient deposits indicative of human domestic activity). One Further evidence of pagan Malin such midden was discovered just includes megalithic tombs and Defensive above Trabreaga Bay at Drung standing stones. One such site (8km south of Malin Head). In was recorded at Umgal (four Promontory this same location, barely 100m miles south of Malin Head) by away, an excavation in the 1960’s archaeologist Mabel Colhoun. Forts unearthed three Bronze Age cist The remains of what Colhoun There are two rock projections graves containing the remains of described as a multi-chambered located on the coast at Ballygorman, two adults (male and female) and cairn are now too scant to ascertain named Doon and Dungolgan an infant. A Bronze tool, a piece of its identification as a megalithic forts. These bastions of rock stand rock crystal and a Bronze pygmy structure.4 Local tradition claims guard at either side of the bay cup were buried with the bodies.3 that this ancient “grave” -as named in which the sacred site of Malin in an 1848 Ordnance Survey map- Well is nestled. The earthwork was the burial place of Ossian, traces and tunnel that led to their pre-eminent poet of pagan Ireland classification as promontory 5 and son of Fionn MacCumhaill. forts have all but disappeared. View of Sea stacks from Malin Head.

6 Reverend Edward Chichester, “ Parish of Cloncha” in William Shaw Mason, (ed.), A Statistical Account or Parochial Survey of Ireland Vol. II, (Dublin: Hibernia Press Office, 1816) 3 Lacy, Archaeological Survey of , (Donegal County Council, 1983) 7 Samuel Lewis, A Topographical Dictionary of Ireland, (London: Samuel Lewis and Co., 1837) 4 Ibid. 8 O. Davies and H.P. Swan, “The Castles of Inishowen” in Journal of Archaeology, 5 Harry P. Swan, Twixt Foyle and Swilly, (Dublin: Hodges, Figgis and Co. Ltd, 1949) Series III, Vol. 2, (Ulster Archaeological Society, 1939), pp. 206-207

10 11 The Arrival Malin Well: of Christianity A Sacred Site in a The baptism of Eoghan by St. and Bishop McColgan who ruled the Magical Setting Patrick at An Grianan of Aileach in diocese from 1752 - 1765. The nearby the 5th century marked the birth monastic sites at Carrowmore and This site of pilgrimage is situated at was a Donegal man living in the 11th of Christianity in Inishowen and meant that this remote area Drumnacille (ridge of the church) in century. He settled in Germany hailed the beginning of a flourishing was a thriving and sophisticated the of Ballygorman, one where he became a Benedictine monastic era. The important 6th place of learning in the early mile east of Portmore Pier. Whilst monk. A talented scribe known century monastic foundation at medieval period. In the 9th century, local tradition connects more as Marianus Scotus, he produced Cloncha (3 km from the village hermitages began to accumulate in than one saint with the site, it is St. manuscripts in Regensburg which of Culdaff) was “the centre for the area around Cloncha. Malin Head Muirdhealach who features most included the Pauline Epistles now conversion of a large part of was the ideal hermit’s haven and prominently. St. Muirdhealach (d.1088) residing in the Imperial Library in Inishowen”9 and came under the the raw beauty of its surroundings Vienna. In 1078 he founded the influence of Colmcille’s disciples at inspired prayer and fasting. Tradition abbey of St. Peter in Regensburg and 10 an early date. Among those buried maintains the famous site of Malin became its first abbot. The special here are Father Sheridan who was Well is a legacy of this era. features associated with this site are chaplain to Bonnie Prince Charles, St. Mahar’s Church, The Wee House of Malin and Malin Well.

St. Mahar’s (Gorman’s) Church The ruin of this simple, late medieval church sits on a raised beach overlooking the restless Atlantic Ocean. Folklore claims the church was built by St. Mahar with stones that came from Downhill, at the mouth of , County . A human face was carved into the top corner stone between the east Malin Well Site. gable and the south wall. Cloncha Monastic Site. St Buadan’s High Cross stands almost 4 metres tall and dates from the 11th century. In the background is the ruin of a 17th century Plantation church.

9 Neil McGrory, Inishowen: A Journey Through Its Past, (Culdaff: The Sweat House, 1988), p.21 10 Catholic University of America, New Catholic Encyclopaedia Vol. 9, (Catholic University Thomson/Gale, 2003), p. 164 12 13 The Wee House of Malin Malin Holy Well have.....forbidden the offensive A few yards south west of the This revered early Christian well is orgies by which he [St. Muirdhealach] church is a small cave carved into a located in the natural cavern in the is worshipped.”13 This second cliff face known locally as the Wee rock on the shore directly below the account was by no means unbiased House of Malin. church. The well is supplied by a and possibly exaggerated for the spring and is covered at high tide. purpose of discrediting this popular It is possible the well was originally Catholic pilgrimage. a site of worship in Druidical times. The well is said to have been blessed The O’Gormans and the by St. Muirdhealach and to have Holy Stone healing properties. Until recently it There is a long tradition of was a famous place of pilgrimage the O’Gorman family living in on the 15th August (Feast of the Ballygorman. It is said that the Holy Assumption). Donegal pilgrims, as Malin Holy Well Stone of Malin was given into the well as those from neighbouring care of the O’Gorman family by the counties, came to partake in rituals called the Malin Well Fair and saint (Muirdhealach) of Malin Well. associated with the curative powers there are some dismissive accounts There was a cure connected with of the well. This pilgrimage was relating to the rituals performed. the stone. The stone was applied to In 1801 McParlan observes the the affected part of the body and culmination of pilgrimage festivities subsequent sweating meant that into an unusual ritual with, “people the cure was working. Rivalry over Wee house of Malin dropping beads in the water…all possession of the stone emerged vehemently whispering prayers.... between various branches of the There are rough stone seats all but the ceremony finishes by a good O’Gorman family. Those who dwelt around the interior and legend ablution in the sea, male and female, in neighbouring Ballyhillion stole the claims it accommodates all all frisking and playing in the water stone and the Ballygorman branch who go into it. It is suggested St. stark naked and washing off each recovered it by force. As a result of Muirdhealach was the hermit other’s sins.”12 Another account by the disagreement, the Parish priest, who lived in the cave and in 1752 Reverend Edward Chichester in Father Neil O’Flaherty, confiscated renowned Englishman, Bishop 1814 referred to the degeneration of the stone at the beginning of the Pococke, wrote, “Muirdhealach festivities into “the most disgusting 19th century.14 It is not known what lived in a cave in the rock of the drunkenness and debauching” and has become of it. cliff where poor people lodge who “the clergy of the Church of Rome come for cure”.11 Malin Well Site 12 James Mc Parlan, Statistical Survey of the County of Donegal, (Dublin: Graisberry and Campbell, 1802), p.117 11 Brian Bonner, Our Inis Eoghain Heritage, (Limerick: Salesian Press, 1984), p.77 13 Rev. Chichester, (1816), p. 181 14 Bonner, (1984) 14 15

Conquest and Consequence: Malin Head Under British Rule Of Lords and Legend: O’Doherty Chieftains in Malin

The O’Dohertys became the Celtic the landscape, there is a romantic lords of Inishowen from 1413. State theory that the exquisite setting Papers of 1600 state that O’Doherty of Dunargus promontory near the had sought refuge in a place beyond townland of Culoort could be the a river which “cutteth off the far end site of the elusive Don’yrishe castle View of Dunargus promontory of the country from all the rest,”15 and the O’Doherty fortification of and where castles were built to Malin.17 complete subjugation of Inishowen to Sir Arthur Chichester, Lord of resist Scottish raids. Could the during the reign of James 1. The Ireland and Marquis of Donegal. area in question be north of Malin When Culoort (a townland land of Inishowen was bequeathed village? Cloncha was recognised as neighbouring Malin Head) was a separate district of Inishowen and confiscated in 1604, Cahir English reports c.1600 refer to it as O’Doherty bought it, determined an island. Malin was not an island that this strategic outpost remain but the narrow strip of bog which in the possession of the Gaels.18 In divided it from the rest of Inishowen return for peaceful submission to provided a natural defence and Queen Elizabeth 1, the O’Dohertys could easily be manipulated to retained their rights to land in form entrenchments so as to cut it Inishowen. This privilege was off from the mainland.16 Whilst there short-lived as the 1608 rebellion of are no visible traces of castles on Cahir O’Doherty brought about the

15 Ibid., p. 113 Bogland in the area of Keenagh and Culoort 16 Davies and Swan, (1939), p. 179 17 Ibid. 18 Bonner, (1984)

16 17 Anecdotes Relating to the and the Irish – displaced from Whilst a small number of Gaelic O’Dohertys in Malin fertile land - reduced to serfdom. The End speakers were recorded in Malin Maghtochair (Michael Harkin), This land was sold two generations Head and Inishtrahull island in the writing in the mid 1800s, notes the later by the widow of a son of Sean of the 1901 census, native Irish speakers presence of the direct descendants O’Doherty (who was a Major in had all but disappeared in this area of Cahir O’Doherty in Culoort. He the army of James II). It was John Gaelic Era by the mid 1800’s. refers to a piece of glenwood oak, Harvey of Derry who bought the handed down through the family for land. According to tradition, the With the arrival of English-speaking The idyllically-situated Roman generations, into which is carved the land sold for the price of £50 and a settlers and ministers of the Catholic chapel at Lagg (built date 1525. In addition, a parchment silk gown and Harvey subsequently Established Church, the Gaelic order in 1784) was the first erected in is said to list the names of Cahir and moved to Keenagh and opened a was dismantled as the British system Inishowen following the relaxation of Conn as heads of the O’Doherty shop. Major O’Doherty had another took root. The enforcement of the the Penal Laws. A little further along household in Culoort up to Harkin’s son who reportedly had a weakness Penal Laws meant that Catholics the coast road towards Malin town time. Following Cahir’s demise in for alcohol. His regular purchase had to practise their religion and stands the Presbyterian meeting- 1609, Lord Chichester pledged of liquor from Harvey’s shop left education in secret. Large upright house, built in 1711. According to £10 annuity to his descendents in him without money and eventually stones, called Mass Rocks, acted as tradition, the church was built below Culoort in recognition of the chief- without land. Having secured all alters at which priests said mass in the high water mark and so was tain’s rightful claim to the land. This of the O’Doherty land in Keenagh, remote locations, near cliff edges, liable to flooding twice daily at high annual payment was said to have Harvey became the agent in the nestled amongst hills, or on the tide. The vulnerable position of this lasted until the death of the fifth area for the Marquis of Donegal.20 nearby island of Inishtrahull. At edifice- at the edge of Trabreaga 19 Earl Chichester (d. 1799) Whether or not there is truth in this illegal Hedge Schools, children were Bay- is testimony to the fact that tale, the Harvey family became one taught by poor nomadic scholars the Presbyterian community faced A distinguished branch of the of the principal landlords in Donegal and if detected the school masters oppression under the Establishment. O’Doherty clan called the Mac in the succeeding generations. could face execution or deportation. an Meirge O’Dohertys lived in the A number of Hedge Schools existed townland of Keenagh. Chichester in Malin Head where students were granted Richard O’Doherty educated in literacy, mathematics, and his heirs the right to lease and sometimes Latin and Greek. their land forever. This was a In Bree (Malin Head), Donnell privileged position at a time when O’Doherty taught navigation.21 landlordism (the middle-man concept) was being implemented

Malin Hall, built by the Harvey family in 1758 Catholic Chapel at Lagg

19 Maghtochair travelled through the remote areas of Inishowen, celebrating its 21 Conall K. Byrne, “Hedge Schools of Inishowen” in Donegal Annual No. 33, beauty and gathering information from local people about the history and (: Donegal Democrat Ltd., 1981), p.46 traditions of the area. His articles were published in the Derry Journal. 20 Ibid. 18 19 1936 this mill switched on the Malin Town town’s electricity for the first time.22 Apart from its early commercial and industrial functions, Malin town held the distinction of accommodating a George Harvey, High Sheriff of This stone bridge replaced a courthouse where petty sessions County Donegal, built Malin Hall wooden one that was destroyed were held once or twice a month. in the townland of Norrira in 1758. by a storm in 1757. Modest In addition to a constabulary Over the next decade, Harvey period townhouses surround the barracks, there was a Revenue planned the picturesque village leafy green on its three sides. Police barracks, set up to quash of Malin below his residence, poitín distillation for which the where the Ballyboe River flows Malin was a bustling market town area was notorious. The Church into Trabreaga Bay. Present day in the late 1700’s to early 1800’s. of Ireland, which stands next to Malin is an award-winning town Busy fairs for the sale of cattle and the courthouse, was built in 1827 and retains its original charm and sheep were held on the village and became the parish church. Its character. An impressive ten-arched green thrice yearly and a market construction was funded by a £200 bridge leads to the heart of the took place every Tuesday. The grant from the Board of First Fruits23 Malin Courthouse quaint triangular-shaped village. town also operated a mill and in and two £100 donations from Bishop Knox of Derry and Mr. Harvey of In 2013 Malin town hosted the Malin Hall. The 1916 Rising, War of acclaimed and highly popular Independence and Civil War of the ‘Guth Gafa’, an annual International early 20th century had little effect Documentary Film Festival. on Malin but the presence of the R.I.C in Malin incited an arson attack on the courthouse in 1922.24 The building was repaired by locals and is still used by the community as a club house. It is hoped funding can be gathered to restore the inside of the courthouse by exposing and/ or reinstating its original features.

22 Conal Byrne, Malin: Aspects of its History, (1990) Malin town 23 The Board of First Fruits was an institution of the Church of Ireland that provided grants to fund the building of churches and glebe houses in Ireland. 24 Byrne, (1990), ibid. 20 21 Hell’s Hole is a deep chasm in the Striking Features of Devil’s cliff face, about 250 feet long, 8 feet Bridge and wide, and 100 feet deep. The water the Natural Landscape rushes into the narrow neck making a thunderous sound as it enters the Hell’s Hole cavern at the end of the gorge. Geology The striking natural features etched into the coastal landscape Malin Head is composed mainly Malin of Malin Head include Hell’s Hole of metamorphic and igneous rock and Devil’s Bridge. Situated west of formed over 400 million years ago, Pebbles Banba’s Crown, they were viewed but it is the island of Inishtrahull, with both awe and trepidation by located 5 miles northeast of Malin The Malin Head coastline is awash past inhabitants and were featured Head that is worthy of particular with a variety of pebbles that include in folktales passed down through attention. The oldest rocks in gemstones such as opal, jasper, the generations. Ireland occur as a small outcrop on amethyst and topaz, to name a few. this island. These rocks are known These semi-precious stones were The natural jagged arch called as gneiss, a coarsely crystalline (and still are) used to make jewellery Devil’s Bridge has been shaped metamorphic rock which requires and were set into seals in the early by centuries of Atlantic erosion. extremely high temperatures and 19th century. pressures to form. It is estimated that they are approximately 1,780 million years old.25 Scientific research into the origin of the Inishtrahull gneiss has concluded that the rocks are not related to the Irish mainland but are part of the Rhinnes Complex of southern Hell’s Hole Greenland. The Hebridean Islands, One tragic tale, “The Legend and Islay, anchored off the of Inishtrahull”, was related by coast of Scotland also correlate with Barney McGonigal, an Inishtrahull the Rhinnes Complex of Inishtrahull native who settled in Malin Head. and southern Greenland. The story is as follows: One day a Malin Pebbles man was crab-fishing at Port Mór (Inishtrahull). He saw a mermaid 25 J.S. Daly, R.J. Muir and R.A. Cliff, ‘A precise U-Pb zircon age for the Inishtrahull syenitic gneiss, County Donegal, Ireland’, Journal of The Geological Society 148, (1991), Devil’s Bridge pp. 639-641 22 23 on the rocks combing her hair. He threw his shark skin crab bag over Ballyhillion Living in the her head and in the struggle her tail fell off and she had feet and legs. Raised Beach Northern Extremity He took her home and hid her tail. They had two children, a boy and Below Banba’s Crown to the east a girl. The boy found his mother’s lies Ballyhillion Beach. This raised Moving away from the coastline, Famine. Seaweeds were eaten tail and she took it from him, went beach is of particular scientific the landscape of Malin Head is a (sloke and carageen) and used as into the sea, and was never seen importance. This is because four colourful blanket of bogland and fertilizer, and the waters around again. The children followed her different stages of sea level change heather. The bog was both a blessing Malin teemed with fish and shell- and were drowned. The distraught and glacial activity can be seen, and an inconvenience in the past. It fish. Captain Hart, who came into father threw himself over the rocks showing the changing connection provided an abundance of fuel, so ownership of Malin Head, financed few suffered the bitter weather on the construction of Portmore Pier at Devil’s Hole (Hell’s Hole). 26 between the sea and land from when the glaciers began to melt this exposed headland. On the other and harbour in 1837. A safe port, it at the end of the last Ice Age. hand, where bogland predominated, could accommodate most boats fertile land was sparse. in Inishowen. Surplus catch was sold, fresh or dried, at A chiefly agricultural community, and markets, from the inhabitants of Malin Head also where it was sent to inland towns relied on the rich harvest of the sea or exported to Glasgow and and as a result this area was one Liverpool. Another export from of the least affected by the Great Malin that became very profitable

Ballyhillion Raised Beach Note: For a detailed and illustrated account of the flora, fauna, and bird- life that grace the Malin headland visit: http://www.malinhead.ie/MH/ Malin_Head_Trail.html Daily life in Malin Head, c.1900. Courtesy of the National Library of Ireland.

26 Harry P. Swan, Romantic Inishowen, (Dublin: Hodges, Figgis, 1947), pp. 81-82)

24 25 during the war years was which was supplied by the farmer. rabbits, which were snared in It is said that on one occasion the The Restless Ocean abundance at Lagg and the women of Cloncha made some area around Devil’s Bridge. poitín to welcome the hard-working men home. Their illegal activity From the earliest times people, was discovered by the police, and Emigration goods, and ideas travelled between following a trial in Malin court, they The curse of economic migration April 1833 lists fifteen passengers Scotland and north Donegal, were all sentenced to three months took hold of Malin from the early/ from Malin, mainly labourers and forging strong commercial and in gaol despite the fact that one of mid 1800’s. Emigrants bound for single women in their twenties. It personal links. From the end of the the women was feeding a baby of Canada and America boarded the was to New Brunswick that William 19th century, migratory labourers six weeks old.27 boat at Moville which took them to Elder (1823 - 1882) travelled. A from Malin made the seasonal Derry before their arduous passage Presbyterian clergyman from journey to Scotland to earn money across the Atlantic. On occasion, Norrira, Malin town, Elder became harvesting crops during the Scottish people who were on the run from editor of St. John’s Daily Telegraph Harvest. These workers travelled the law would lie low on Inishtrahull newspaper. His entry into politics to Scotland in groups of six and before embarking on their journey saw him elected to the Legislative stayed in a house called a Bothie to freedom. It was customary to Assembly of New Brunswick.30 light bonfires along the headland as a send-off to loved ones. For many During the same period, 77 of the emigrants who embarked at emigrants from Malin are recorded Derry port, Inishtrahull lighthouse journeying to America with the was their last ever glimpse of Cooke and McCorkell shipping Ireland as the liner ferried them company. It was to Boston that the away from their native land. America bound Malin emigrants flocked. By the early 1900’s there Cloncha had a population of 6,654 were few in Malin Head who did 28 inhabitants in 1837. Between 1841 not have a relative in Boston. and 1851, Malin saw a population Indeed, Inishowen emigrants as decrease of 731 people.29 A a whole were instrumental to the passenger list of the Briq Trial rise of the Irish to political power travelling to St. John in Canada in in Boston. Malin Head native,

28 Lewis, (1837) Portmore Pier 29 Sean Beattie, “Emigration from North Donegal”, in Donegal Annual No. 44, (Ballyshannon: Donegal Democrat Ltd., 1992), p. 20 27 Byrne, (1990) 30 ibid

26 27 Daniel Doherty is an example In 1950 he addressed the U.S of a well-respected and active Congress in Washington with Shipwrecks participant in Irish-American affairs. a petition willed by 15 million Americans asking for the The treacherous water around Malin The Twilight recognition of Ireland as a thirty- Head has become a graveyard of In the autumn of 1889, this 779 two county Republic. Doherty ocean liners and German U-boats, ton ship left St. John’s for Derry. was in direct communication with casualties of the world wars. A strong north west wind blew many eminent politicians over In earlier times seafarers were up and grounded the ship on the the course of his lifetime, most occasionally lured into the shallow Five Fingers Strand. The lifeboat notably John F. Kennedy, whom he waters of Trabreaga Bay (translated from Culdaff had to be pulled had in attendance at the Donegal as the “lying strand”), some having overland but sank in the bog road Association 50th Anniversary dinner mistaken it for Lough Swilly. which was built on quick moss. All in 1958, and Eamon de Valera.31 were rescued and the cargo of deal The Cambria (planks of pinewood) was auctioned In 1870 this passenger liner struck on the beach. The wreck of the rocks and sank off Malin Head. All Twilight can occasionally be seen the passengers and 80 of her crew at low tide.32 perished except one man who was found next day in an open boat near the entrance to Lough Foyle. He did

Photograph of Daniel Doherty with Eamon not live long after his rescue. de Valera, c.1960s. Courtesy of Donegal County Archives. The Daniel Morris Born in Ballyhillion in 1890, Doherty This cargo ship sank in Trabreaga emigrated from Donegal to America Bay below Knockamany Bens in at the age of 19. Having worked 1876. Its cargo of white flour was as a farm labourer and a miner, salvaged by some of the locals and he served in the U.S army during it is maintained that this was the World War One after which he first time bread was baked using settled in Boston. Doherty became white flour in Malin. an influential member of the Donegal Association of Boston.

Boston newspaper article on Daniel Doherty. Courtesy of Donegal County Archives.

31 Donegal County Archives Service holds a collection of Daniel Doherty’s 32 Byrne, (1990) private papers: P/11). 28 29 and with the island of Inishtrahull captains would transfer the War, Weather, and where another signal tower was contraband to the islanders’ boats. erected on the western end of The islanders then brought it to Communications the island. When in line of sight Inishtrahull until it was safe to bring of the tower, ships would signal it ashore to hide in coastal caves. their destination using flags and in From here it was taken to Derry by An Important Role in Early turn the coastguard would inform the captains’ agents and sold.33 Lloyds in London. The semaphore Communications system was subsequently replaced by Morse code in 1902 when The landmark of Ireland’s most Napoleonic Wars. Its original the Marconi Wireless Company northerly point is the signal tower purpose was to act as a coastguard, (located beside the tower) on Banba’s Crown. This tower was reporting on ships passing along this superseded Lloyd’s signal system. constructed in 1805 by Lloyd’s busy transatlantic route. Semaphore The Marconi Company sent the shipping insurers by Order of and telescope were used to first commercial message by the British Admiralty during the maintain communications with ships wireless from Malin Head to the passenger ship S.S. Lake Ontario. In the years to come, Malin Head became an important base for transatlantic communication. In 1912, the Titanic tested its Marconi radio equipment with Malin Head.

Smuggling was rife along the eastern coastline of Inishowen at the beginning of the 19th century. The principal commodities smuggled were tobacco and rum, and towards the middle of the century the coastguard station was built on Inishtrahull to combat this trade. The sea

Banba’s Tower and Marconi Wireless Station. Courtesy of the National Library of Ireland.

33 ibid, p. 20

30 31 During World War Two, look-out August 1940 the lighthouse keeper The post huts were built at Malin on Inishtrahull used semaphore to Head to protect Irish neutrality. relay to Malin Head look-out posts World Wars They were manned by the Irish that crew from the torpedoed defence forces who kept watch cargo ship, The Havildar (which The current coastguard station at the destroyer HMS Racoon, which and reported activities at sea and was enroute to Burma) had landed Malin Head was built by the British sank on 9 January 1918. It is be- in the air. These huts still stand on on Inishtrahull.34 In the same in 1913. During World War One lieved it struck the Garrive Isles the headland. Another symbol of month another ship in distress (1914-1918) the Royal Inniskilling when caught in a snow storm a Irish neutrality was the ‘Eire’ sign, was the 16,923 ton Transylvania Fusiliers were billeted at the station. mile off Malin Head. None of the painted on stones and pressed into which was damaged by a torpedo During the war, many ships were 100 man crew survived. In 1996 the grass. Still visible below Banba’s off Malin Head. Three hundred destroyed off Malin Head. Some fell Malin fishermen unwittingly came Tower, the sign was a message to survivors were safely transferred victim to mines whilst others failed upon live ammunition from the World War Two pilots that they had to trawlers. Two officers and 20 to navigate through treacherous wreck among their lobster pots. entered neutral territory. men were killed. Today the wreck winter conditions. One such ship was

Eire Sign below Banba’s Crown. of the Transylvania sits upright The Battle of the Atlantic began and almost intact 135m below the on 3 September 1939, 250 water’s surface. miles north west of Malin Head. The ocean became a hunting ground of German U-boats and submarines. Distress signals were

Coastguard Station. Courtesy of the National Library of Ireland. received at Malin Head. On 24

34 Michael Kennedy, Guarding Neutral Ireland, (Dublin: Four Courts Press, 2008), p.36

32 33 National Inishtrahull36 Weather Station

The first weather station at Malin daily wind speed is 20mph. The No account of Malin Head would her and when they fell asleep, well Head was established by the British highest gust speed recorded at be complete without giving due watered with poitín, the Scotsmen Meteorological Service in 1885 and Malin Head was 114mph when regard to the small, yet formidable, were slaughtered. Their bodies were weather reports were transmitted the tail end of Hurricane Debbie island of Inishtrahull. This hour- rolled over a cliff onto the strand at by personnel employed by Lloyd’s struck the west coast in 1961.35 glass shaped island stretches a Portmore and today Roman Nettles Insurance Company. Coastguard The Aurora Borealis puts on a mile long and there are many Irish and Fool’s Parsley mark the spot. 37 officers continued this work until spectacular display here during translations for the word Inishtrahull, 1920 when a local family was times of increased solar activity. including Inis Tra Fola- Island of The discovery of a small inscribed contracted to provide climate the Strand of Blood- which has a “cursing stone”, buried 8ft deep data and one weather report each remarkable legend associated with and dating from 750 AD would day. Today, Malin Head weather it. In the distant past two brothers suggest the island was inhabited reports are mentioned as part of from Inishtrahull were on a fishing from the earliest times. The 1851 the BBC Shipping Forecast. In 1955 expedition but fierce winds blew census lists 11 houses with 68 the current synoptic station was up and forced them to land on built by the Irish Meteorological an island of the Inner Hebrides. Service whose personnel recorded They were treated with hospitality hourly weather observations. The by the Highlanders, but one of the high wind speeds recorded at men fell in love with a daughter Malin Head is what distinguishes of the chieftain. The young lovers it from other stations around were refused permission to wed Ireland. Storm force 12 winds are and they stole away to Inishtrahull. recorded most years. The average After a number of years, the armed Highlanders discovered the whereabouts of the maiden but she and her eldest son plotted to out-

smart the Scotsmen. The maiden Inishtrahull Island. Courtesy of Seán Beattie, invited her clansmen to dine with The Book of Inishtrahull (Culdaff: Lighthouse Publications, 1992) and Jim McLaughlin and Seán Beattie, Atlas of County Donegal (Cork University Press, 2013).

36 Seán Beattie offers an illustrated and comprehensive narrative on Inishtrahull (including extracts from the accounts/poems of lighthouse keeper D.J O’Sullivan) in 35 Met Éireann, “Weather Observing Stations, his Book of inishtrahull http://www.met.ie/about/weatherobservingstations/malinhead.asp 37 Seán Beattie, The Book of Inishtrahull (Culdaff : Lighthouse Publications, 1992), p.32 34 35 residents. The last inhabitants left oil burned in wick lamps and fitted had a walled enclosure so the island is blessed with wildlife rarely the island in 1928 following an in separate metal reflectors.38 Its keeper could grow vegetables, seen anywhere else in Ireland and 39 order of compulsory evacuation. function was superseded by the protected from the salty sea-air. has been designated a National Many of the families settled in lighthouse that was completed In 1987 Inishtrahull Lighthouse Nature Reserve. Malin Head. The evidence left to in 1958 on the western end of became fully automated. us by the people who once lived the island beside the existing The island hosts a large and varied here includes a ruined settlement of fog signal station. The light from For the residents of the island, seabird colony. The Shag, Common stone cottages and a schoolhouse, this station can be seen from a fishing was their livelihood. A cow Gull, and Great Black-Backed two graveyards (from different distance of over 30 miles in clear provided milk, hens provided eggs, Gull population are of national periods), and a standing stone weather. Lighthouse keepers did and sheep provided wool. Apart importance. The island was the first featuring an inscribed cross. duty in rotation, usually spending a from potatoes, crops could not grow Irish breeding site for the Eider and in this harsh environment. Fish was retains a large breeding population. caught in the summer and cured Its winter population has included and stored for winter consumption. Barnacle Geese and Arctic Tern. Some was sold to passing ships or to the market in Carndonagh. The Grey seals are regular visitors to the eldest member of the island was island. Basking sharks, cetaceans the “king,” who kept order and acted (whales and dolphins) and sunfish as advisor and mediator.40 are visitors to Inishtrahull Sound.

The geographical location of Note: Boat trips to Inishtrahull are Inishtrahull- the northernmost available subject to booking during landmass of Ireland- means that the the summer months.

Ruined Island settlement below lighthouse. Courtesy of Andy McInroy (photographer)

A cross-inscribed Mass Rock was month on the island and a fortnight sadly stolen from the island in 2009. on the mainland. Sometimes the keepers were detained on the The first lighthouse was built in island for a few weeks longer 1812 at the eastern end of the because the winds could be fierce island. Its light was visible up to a and the tides dangerous through distance of 19 miles. For many years Inishtrahull Sound. The lighthouse the source of this light was vegetable on the eastern end of the island Islanders, c. 1900. Courtesy of Seán Beattie, The Book of Inishtrahull and Atlas of County Donegal.

38 Swan, (1947) 39 Beattie, (1992) 36 40 Ibid. 37 References

Beattie, S., The Book of Inishtrahull. Culdaff : Light- Davies, O. and Swan, H.P., “The Castles of Inishowen”, in house Publications, 1992 Ulster Journal of Archaeology, Series III, Vol. 2. 1939

Beattie, S., “Emigration from North Donegal”, in Done- Kennedy, M., Guarding Neutral Ireland. Dublin: Four gal Annual No. 44. Ballyshannon: Donegal Democrat Courts Press, 2008 Ltd, 1992 Lacy, B., Archaeological Survey of County Donegal. Bonner. B, Our Inis Eoghain Heritage. Limerick: Donegal County Council, 1983 Salesian Press, 1984 Lewis, S., Topographical Dictionary of Ireland, Byrne. C., Malin: Aspects of its History. 1990 London: Samuel Lewis and Co., 1837

Byrne, C. K., “Hedge Schools of Inishowen”, in Donegal Maghtochair, Inishowen: Its History, Traditions, and Annual No. 33. Ballyshannon: Donegal Democrat Ltd, 1981 Antiquities. Londonderry: The Journal Office, 1867

Catholic University of America, New Catholic Encyclo- McGrory, N., Inishowen: A Journey Through Its Past. paedia Vol 9. Thomson/Gale, (2003), p. 164 Culdaff: The Sweat House, 1988

Chichester, E, “ Parish of Cloncha” in William Shaw Mason, McParlan, J., Statistical Survey of the County of (ed.), A Statistical Account or Parochial Survey of Donegal. Dublin: Graisberry and Campbell, 1802 Ireland Vol. II. Dublin: Hibernia Press Office, 1816 Swan, H.P., Romantic Inishowen: Ireland’s Wonderful Colhoun, M. R., The Heritage of Inishowen: Its Ar- Peninsula. Dublin: Hodges, Figgis, 1947 chaeology, History, and Folklore. North West Archae- ological and Historical Society, 1995 Swan, H.P., Twixt Foyle and Swilly, Dublin: Hodges, Figgis and Co. Ltd, 1949 Daly, J.S., Muir, R.J., and Cliff, R.A., ‘A precise UPb zircon age for the Inishtrahull syenitic gneiss, County Donegal, Ireland,’ in Journal of The Geological Society 148. 199

38 39 Internet Sources

www.malinhead.ie The Malin Head Trail is an illustrated and highly in- formative guide to the interesting coastal features of Malin Head.

➢www.malinheadwrecks.com Photographs and videos taken of the many shipwrecks off Malin Head.

➢www.malinheadcoastguardradio.com A detailed account of the history of the coastguard operations in Malin Head.

➢www.met.ie/about/weatherobservingstations/ma- linhead.asp Information on Malin Head’s weather observing station

➢www.movilleinishowen.com This site contains a number of informative historical articles

40 Donegal County Archives is part of Cultural Services Division, Community, Culture and Planning Directorate, Donegal County Council.

Archives Service, Donegal County Council, , County Donegal Tel: +353 74 9172490 E-Mail: [email protected] Website: http://www.donegalcoco.ie/archives

www.facebook.com/DonegalCountyArchives

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