ADDING TO THE HELENE ROCHAS, KARDASHIANS A GREAT PARIS BEAUTY, MOM KRIS JENNER DIES AT 84. TO LAUNCH FASHION LINE PAGE 4 WITH QVC. PAGE 7

WWDTUESDAY, AUGUST 16, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 A TOUGH STREET Cautious Outlook Hits Estée Lauder Shares offi cer, said the low end of guidance By MOLLY PRIOR takes into account a reduction in overall global market growth due AS STOCK MARKETS gyrate and to economic turmoil, but he empha- consumers grow antsy, Wall Street is sized, “For the moment, we don’t see clearly looking ahead — just ask the any signs of consumption reduction” Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. in the U.S. market in particular. The beauty fi rm Monday reported Citi analyst Wendy Nicholson that profi ts leaped 72 percent in the wrote in a research note Monday, fourth quarter, but its shares fell a “While [Lauder’s] preliminary and, punishing 6.5 percent after it issued in our view, clearly conservative out- lower-than-expected guidance for look for 2012 suggests a deceleration fi scal 2012. in terms of sales, operating income Lauder’s shares fell $6.58 to close and EPS growth, we still consider at $94.27 on the New York Stock [Lauder’s] growth prospects to be Exchange on a day when global best in class.” stock markets were up overall. For The caution came on top of a fi scal 2012, the company forecasted fourth quarter and fi scal 2011 that a net sales gain of between 6 and 8 were stellar on most accounts. percent in constant currency, and di- Lauder’s biggest brands — namely luted earnings per share of between Estée Lauder, Clinique and MAC $3.84 and $4.12. Fabrizio Freda, the Cosmetics — led a 12 percent sales fi rm’s president and chief executive SEE PAGE 11 IN WWD TODAY Ralph Joins Oprah for Charity PAGE 2 FASHION: Ralph Lauren will sit down to chat with Oprah Winfrey at Lincoln Center this fall at a charity fund-raising gala.

Diana Vreeland’s Legacy STYLE, PAGE 9 L Blazer’s STYLE: The legendary editor gets a documentary and the coffee-table book treatment thanks to granddaughter-in-law Lisa Immordino Vreeland.

CAFTA Gets a Boost PAGE 8 TEXTILES: Higher costs for labor, Edge transport and raw materials are seeing A favorite topper for everything from fi rms bring some sourcing closer to home — and the CAFTA countries are benefi ting. jeans to jumpsuits, the blazer is a key item this holiday season. Here, Factory by Erik Hart’s wool and viscose style paired with Improvd’s viscose, nylon and Lurex jumpsuit. Low Luv x Erin Wasson earrings; Mohawk ring; House of Harlow knuckle ring; LD Tuttle shoes. For more, see page 6.

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY MODEL: CAROLINE DE MARQUI/MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT; HAIR BY KAYLA MICHELE AT ATELIER MANAGEMENT FOR REDKEN; MAKEUP BY JEN MYLES AT WORKGROUP LTD. USING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGIE; FASHION ASSISTANT: KENDALL MICHAELIS ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGIE; FASHION USING MAC COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: WORKGROUP LTD. JEN MYLES AT MANAGEMENT FOR REDKEN; MAKEUP BY ATELIER MICHELE AT KAYLA HAIR BY MODEL: CAROLINE DE MARQUI/MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT; 2 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 16, 2011 WWD.COM Nordstrom Opening Store for Charity Ralph, Oprah Headed an unfinished look. There’s a cafe serving Seattle’s By Sharon EdElSon Stumptown coffee and pastries from Balthazar bakery. General manager Paige Boggs, nordstrom’s former To Lincoln Center Stage nEW YorK — While doing good can be a reward visual merchandising director, made the most out of unto itself, nordstrom Inc.’s reasons for unveiling hand-me-downs and put cheap materials to creative By MarC KarIMzadEh Treasure & Bond here Friday go beyond the altruistic. use. a plastic wall unit that looks like honeycombs While 100 percent of the store’s profits after ex- holds hats and open plywood squares and rectangles nEW YorK — “The oprah Winfrey Show” special on penses will be donated to charity, nordstrom hopes stacked on top of each other display books and curios. ralph lauren was clearly just a warm-up. the 11,137-square-foot permanent unit at 350 West The merchandise is a mix of home, men’s, woman’s and on oct. 24, lauren and Winfrey will reunite, this time Broadway in Soho will shed some light on the kids apparel, fragrance, accessories, jewelry and art, onstage at lincoln Center as part of a multifaceted invita- Manhattan market, where it is actively looking to priced from $15 for a plastic ring to $5,000 for fine jew- tion-only gala evening to benefit both The ralph lauren open a full-line store in the near future. elry. With up-and-coming labels such as 2b. rych, Yoon, Center for Cancer Care and Prevention and lincoln “We’re going to end up having a full-line store in German Fräuleins, herno and hoss Intropia, sourcing Center for the Performing arts. during the event, titled Manhattan,” said Pete nordstrom, president of mer- product for Treasure & Bond has been liberating. lincoln Center Presents: an Evening with ralph lauren, chandising. “anything we can do to make us better and “It’s nice for us to have a vehicle where we can do Winfrey will serve as the host and lead a conversation more informed is important. By virtue of the fact that pure merchant stuff without the entanglements of a with the designer to offer a look into his life, as well as his Treasure & Bond has a philan- big company,” nordstrom said. career that has spanned more than four decades. thropic aspect, it connects us to “We might learn about new ven- “I am so proud to have my dear friend oprah join me the community.” dors or a classification or cat- onstage for this special evening to celebrate and sup- Treasure & Bond is owned by egory we haven’t done before.” port two important new Yo r k organizations, the ralph nordstrom and independently Treasure & Bond “will end lauren Center for Cancer Care and Prevention and operated. Consumers won’t find up finding its own identity,” lincoln Center for the Performing arts,” lauren said. the word nordstrom on the ex- nordstrom said, adding, “We The evening will start with a reception, followed by the ne terior of the store. “This is not O talked about [possibly open- chat between Winfrey and lauren at lincoln Center’s alice a mini nordstrom,” a spokes- ing more units] but that’s really Tully hall, which will be produced by darren Bagert, who

woman said. “We won’t take iannacc jumping the gun. It would be has several Tony, drama desk and outer Critics Circle nordstrom credit cards and you S great if we could end up having awards under his belt. The following gala dinner, at avery can’t bring [nordstrom] returns ma one in Chicago, San Francisco or Fisher hall, will serve back there. We’re not hiding the THO Seattle, I guess. But doing busi- to underscore lincoln fact that we’re behind it, but ness in Manhattan is so unique.” Ralph Lauren with Oprah Winfrey Center’s growing ties to Inside the new store. at the 2007 CFDA Fashion Awards. you’d have to know. It’s a totally PHOTO BY Therein lies the appeal of the fashion community, different concept.” Treasure & Bond. after search- from new York Fashion The idea for Treasure & Bond came from philan- ing for a site here for more than 20 years, nordstrom Week to other events thropist Catie Marron and Vogue editor in chief anna said, “The more we spend time there, the better feel throughout the year, such Wintour. nordstrom typically holds gala events “to we get for where we could be successful.” as the CFda awards. give something back to the community when we open In Manhattan, nordstrom is eyeing the West Side, spe- “When lincoln Center a new store,” the spokeswoman said. Treasure & Bond cifically the hudson Yards mixed-use project under devel- embraced Mercedes- will donate to eight -based charities opment between 30th and 33rd Streets, and 10tha venue Benz Fashion Week, that serve children per year, two each quarter. Marron and the West Side highway, and 3 Columbus Circle. The we fully anticipated and Wintour helped select the first round, which in- retailer may be relaxing its requirements a bit.n ordstrom that fashion and design cludes The new York Public library programs for said he’s watched other retailers make compromises in would, over time, be- children and young adults and the achievement Gap terms of location or store size in the city and find success. come a more enduring Project, Children’s health Fund and Coalition for the “We’re closer than what we’ve been,” he said, while and visible part of the homeless: Camp homeward Bound Sleep-away Camp declining to provide specifics. “We’ve got some things creative spectrum at and after School Services. next year, customers will we’re considering. We would never have considered the lincoln Center, mean- be invited to suggest and vote on charities. Chelsea area. Jeffrey [Kalinsky, executive vice presi- ing that we would have With reclaimed fixtures from nordstrom units, con- dent of designer merchandising] said, ‘You can go some- events throughout the crete floors and open duct work, Treasure & Bond has where and if the store is good enough, it will do well.’” year,” said reynold levy, president of lincoln Center. “That is beginning to come to pass in a whole variety of ways which will unfold over time.” having the designer at lincoln Center for this occasion was a natural move. “Mr. lauren is well known to many Urban Outfitters Profits Shrink 20.9 Percent members of lincoln Center’s board, and he has been STEEP ProMoTIonS and hIGhEr expenses con- a 16.6 percent jump in e-commerce sales to $112.6 to lincoln Center fairly frequently, including at CFda m tributed to a 20.9 percent decline in Urban outfitters million boosted total sales by 10.3 percent to $609.2 O events,” levy added. “[The ralph lauren Corp.] has also Inc.’s second-quarter net income. million, from $552.2 million a year earlier. Sales came been a very generous supporter of lincoln Center’s rede- mage.c Glen Senk, chief executive officer, told analysts on in ahead of the $604.5 million analysts expected. i velopment efforts. The idea of joining forces to do some- e a conference call that sales at the anthropologie unit Quarterly gross margin as a percentage of sales R thing very special that would help The ralph lauren had decelerated over the past 10 days as consumers slid to 37.9 percent from year-ago margin of 42.5 per- /Wi Center for Cancer Care and Prevention and lincoln PHY a

reevaluated the political and economic scene. cent, as selling, general and administrative expenses R Center for the Performing arts in a meaningful way But he also noted that the women’s assortments at for the quarter rose 11.9 percent to $143.1 million. g seemed a natural extension of that relationship.” both anthropologie and Urban outfitters had been Comparable-stores sales fell 2 percent, but when HOTO Fighting cancer has been a key cause for lauren for weak, and said the company was working to improve including direct sales, they improved 1 percent for the more than two decades. he contributed to the estab- those collections and streamline its merchandising quarter. Comps at Free People and Urban outfitters lishment of the nina hyde Center for Breast Cancer limene P and e-commerce efforts. increased 1 percent and 18 percent, respectively, O research at Georgetown University Medical Center, de- For the period ended July 31, the Philadelphia- while comps at anthropologie were flat. signed the first logo for Fashion Targets Breast Cancer and S

based retailer posted a profit of $56.7 million, or 35 although the company vowed to tread with cau- ani and created the Pink Pony Campaign in 2000. he created cents a diluted share. This compared with earnings tion in the quarters to come, Urban plans to open 55 BB the Cancer Center in harlem in 2003. of $71.7 million, or 42 cents a share, in the year-ago to 57 stores this year, focusing on the Free People and Ra The evening at lincoln Center is being made possible quarter. despite the decline, profits came in 3 cents Urban outfitters’ European division. by the support of american Express, Condé nast and  —ALEXANDRASTEIGRAD ahead of Wall Street projections. PHOTO BY hearst Corp.

toDay on WWD.CoM To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is SeCtorS in thiS iSSue [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. ■ EYE: See Model Call: Annemara Post, COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. BEAUTY 1,11 FASHION 6,7,11 more pictures of and VOLUME 202, NO. 34. TUESDAY, AUGUST 16, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except FINANcIAL 2 TExTILES 8 Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two of the Ronald McDonald House Golf additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, RETAIL 2,11 MEdIA 9 Tournament at WWD.com/eye. which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY PEOPLE 2,9,10 REAL ESTATE 11 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief ■ BEAUTY: More pictures of Hélène Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Rochas at WWD.com/beauty-industry-news. Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax ■ FASHION: More looks from Kris Jenner’s Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O .Box 503, collection for QVC at WWD.com/fashion-news. RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR Daily Quote ■ BUSINESS: See more financial DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA news and daily stock movements 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as at WWD.com/business-news. printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or ■ GLOBAL BREAKING NEWS up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four Women should weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR Annemara DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the Post request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild have a fragile air Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED even if they’re not. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, — The laTe hélène Rochas, 1972. PaGe 4 ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

4 WWD tuesday, august 16, 2011 WWD.COM

OBITUARY Hélène Rochas: The Beauty of Fashion spired by his business savvy. When her husband died, now,” she said. “In the day, practical things...the exot- By LORNA KOSKI hélène Rochas was asked to become president of the ic is for summer and evening.” At the time, she wore company. She turned it into France’s sixth largest per- mostly Yves Saint Laurent couture and ready-to-wear. The deATh AT 84 of hélène Rochas, the celebrated fumer in 1964, then sold it to the French chemical com- She said in the same story that she bought three or four Parisian beauty who helped to turn the house of Rochas pany Roussel-Uclaf for the equivalent of $40 million — Saint Laurent couture outfits a season, and 10 or 12 into a perfume powerhouse, signals the end of an era. an enormous amount of money in those days — which boutique outfits. “hélène Rochas has left us,” said Frédéric was split between Rochas and her two children. In 1970, In 1981, she told W, “A dinner for six has to be for Mitterrand, France’s minister of culture and communi- just before the deal was finalized, she noted in WWd, very close friends. I have a dinner party like this at least cation, in an official statement. “She who was immor- “When we closed our couture house on the Avenue two or three times a month, and very often the guests talized in 1975 by Andy Warhol as the icon of elegance Matignon, Rochas became one of the few perfume are people I know so well I can ring them up at the last and luxury has gone quietly. With her vanished the last houses that was not connected with couture. There is minute.” Among those guests might have been Andre muse of the great couturiers and artistic circles from Guerlain, but they have 140 years behind them....We Oliver, a top executive at Pierre Cardin; the celebrated after the war, vanished a past universe of splendor and have less than 30. I wanted to replace the couture with architect emile Aillaud and his wife, Charlotte, sis- sumptuous Parisian parties frequented by Françoise the idea of elegance. ter of Juliette Gréco; Countess Christiana Brandolini, Sagan, Yves Saint Laurent, Jacques sister of Gianni Agnelli, and her hus- Becker...vanished the muse and band, Count Brando Brandolini, or wife of Marcel Rochas, the famous Rolf Lieberman, former director of the designer from the Thirties to the Paris Opera. For a cold winter night, Fifties, founder of the illustrious she might serve eggs en cocotte with house Rochas.” truffles, followed by a sauté of lamb MICHEL MAUROU She is survived by her son, with baby vegetables, salad and cheese François, and daughter, Sophie. and sorbet.

Renowned for her classically PHOTO BY In 1977, she described her profes- beautiful face with cornflower blue sional routine: “I enjoy working and eyes and a long neck and celebrated I like to organize things. My office for her impeccable style — for which is very different from my home. I’ve every fashion publication heaped on just had it redone and it looks like the encomiums — she was a leader something out of James Bond. There in Paris society for decades, and also are buttons and gadgets all over the a highly successful businesswoman. room. I don’t have a view on the Rue “One of the most beautiful women François Premier, so I had the window I’ve ever seen,” said John Fairchild, covered in green felt. I never know chairman emeritus of Fairchild what it is like outside or what time it Publications, who knew her for de- is. Sometimes I get carried away with cades. “Beautiful but chic. She was my work and at 9 o’clock I realize ev- instinctively beautiful.” eryone’s gone home and I’m the only But Rochas preferred to down- one left.” play her role as an executive. In in- In 1980, she returned to the firm as terview after interview, she said that a “brand ambassadress,” and she also she wasn’t really a believer in wom- told People magazine that her career en’s liberation. “Women,” she told had damaged her relationship with WWd in 1972, “should have a fragile her daughter. “We fight terribly,” she air even if they’re not.” said. “I was not a good mother.” Regardless of her delicate ap- Rochas was married to her second pearance, however, Rochas was husband, theater producer Andre clearly a strong, resourceful person. Bernheim, from 1958 to 1965. Not long She became the third wife of couturi- ’’ thereafter, she began a live-in relation- er Marcel Rochas only a few months ship with boutique owner and man- after she met him as an 18-year-old about-town Kim d’estainville, consid- during the Nazi Occupation in Paris ered one of the handsomest men in on the last Metro of the evening. her Paris, which continued until the early mother was France’s first woman eighties. They divided their time be- dentist and her father was a World tween her Art deco hôtel particulier in War I hero. hélène was studying act- the 7th arondissement, widely regard- ing and classical dance, and, as she ed as one of the best in the city; her told WWd in 1972, Marcel said to her stunning yacht, which was moored in that she “walked like a duck, like all the South of France, and her New York dancers.” he told her that her head apartment. In 1965, she gave one of the was pretty enough to model his hats, last of the great Paris balls, with a “My but that she wasn’t sufficiently chic Fair Lady” theme, at the Belle epoque for the dresses, because that qual- La Grande Cascade restaurant in the ity was reserved for women over Bois de Boulogne. It was attended by 30. “But I went on from the hats to tout le monde, among them Jacqueline the dresses to the guepieres, and I de Ribes, “My Fair Lady” wound up marrying him,” she said. For more designer Cecil Beaton, elsa “It changed my life,” she said I have no rules. photos, see Martinelli and Marquis of their relationship, which had a Raymundo de Larrain, and Pygmalion quality. he chose her It’s not that WWD.com/ Rochas wore an aigrette and clothes, helped her develop impec- beauty-industry-news. a white dress designed by cable grooming and style, and insist- thought out.” Andre Levasseur and made ed that she wear her hair long. When by Guy Laroche. he closed his own atelier in 1953, he — Hélène RocHas, HeRe in After a certain point, though, a took her to Chanel, Christian dior 1984, on HeR fasHion friend noted, she tired of the inter- and Balenciaga for her clothes. his national jet set and preferred to house’s classic chypre fragrance, pHilosopHy. spend time with a more intellectual Femme, launched in 1943, was in- group, who included the likes of criti- spired by her. cally lauded French novelist Patrick “I was a sort of ambassadress and Modiano. She also spent long stretch- brought a feminine image to the perfume,” she noted. “But the image of the elegant woman has changed.... es in Tunisia with banker Jean-Pierre Marcie-Riviere “My husband loved everything that was feminine. Once Now elegant women are often the last to be in fashion. and his wife. he saw a Mae West movie where she wore a black lace It’s the girl in the street...the young, who decide fashion hélène Rochas had designed clothing for the Rochas dress. he was so impressed that he decorated the bot- today and they’re becoming very sophisticated. I notice label after her return to the house in 1980. Olivier tles for Femme perfume with lace, and gave them a it with perfume. Lots of girls are now using Femme, Theyskens became creative director of the firm in 2002, round voluptuous shape.” which is a heavier perfume, instead of Mme. Rochas. showing his first collection in March of 2003 and win- The bottle for Mme. Rochas, which she launched in I think it goes with the 1930s look and the Midi length. ning the CFdA international award in 2006; she served 1960, was slimmer but still very feminine, she noted, be- They seem to’’ take much more interest in their appear- as a consultant and muse during that time. cause women’s shapes had changed. ance, in their makeup and in their perfume. And they In the Sixties, Rochas collected antique silver slip- “I’ve been used to thinking about what I put on, be- can afford to buy all these things now.” pers, while, in the Seventies, buying Art deco pieces cause my husband was so demanding,” she told W maga- When asked about her own fashion philosophy by W was a major pastime. What kept her young for so long? zine in 1977. “I love dresses, fashion.” One of her few in 1977, she said, “I have no rules. It’s not that thought “Love, of course. What you feel inside,” Rochas told acts of rebellion after his early death in 1955 was to cut out.” Then, with a touch of disingenuousness, she went W in 1984. “ Yo u need to project your personality and her hair short. on to detail all sorts of the elements from her recipe maintain a curiosity about life and men, and remain But she was a fast learner, and she was definitely in- for style. “You need less rather than more to be elegant open to everything.”

6 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 16, 2011 WWD.COM

Hilfi ger Denim’s cotton blazer. Charles Henry’s wool and leather blazer. Diesel Black Gold’s brushed leather and silk blazer. Stand & Deliver’s studded leather blazer. Blazer ’s Edge It might be a classic but it’s not just about being buttoned up. Here are some of the coolest blazers for holiday. — Kim Friday

Sacai’s wool blazer with attached beaded silk camisole. Black Halo’s polyester, viscose and elastane twill tuxedo jacket. MITRA ROBERT

Boss Black’s wool, viscose and elastane jacket. BY

Paul Smith Black Label’s wool and elastane blazer. Chaiken and Capone’s cropped wool, Lycra and silk jacket. PHOTOS WWD tuesday, august 16, 2011 7 WWD.COM ready-to-wear Kris Jenner Making Her Fashion Statement a lot in my 50-some-odd years of trial and By Marcy Medina error. This is a culmination of everything that i love that’s easy, with a few pieces LOS anGeLeS — The Jenner-Kardashian thrown in for night and cocktail because fashion family is about to get even bigger. every girl needs something to go out in. Matriarch Kris Jenner will launch her own “When something’s well planned out, line for QVc, Kris Jenner Kollection, during then it makes it happier when i begin my the channel’s live new york Fashion Week day, because i know exactly what to wear,” broadcast on Sept. 8. she continued, pointing out that the line Previewing the line at her Hidden Hills, lets women add their own accessories or calif., home last week, Jenner descended one of her patterned scarves to spice things from the spiral staircase in a burgundy up. Jenner’s other signature accessory, big knee-length dress from the collection with earrings, is something she hopes to add to a drawstring waist and cutouts along the the line eventually. arms. it was only 8 a.m., but there was al- The Tiger J-manufactured pieces — five ready a small army of non-family members of which will make their debut on Sept. 8, in the house, and it wasn’t even a taping day with more to come in an October show — will range from $35 for a basic T-shirt to $140 for outerwear and Kris Jenner embellished dresses. after Jenner made a quick wardrobe change, she rejoined the crew on the pool patio in a burgundy satin-finish trench over a white shirt and leg- gings from her line, paired with a black tie she borrowed from her first husband, robert Kardashian, 35 years ago. “This trench is my favorite piece. you can wear it during the day with riding boots or booties and dress it up at night with a beautiful black dress un- derneath with heels,” she said. “One thing i love about the clothes is that they have a great Looks from deal of style but they are forev- Kris Jenner er pieces, and the other is they Kollection. are so well made. you want your clothes to stand the test of time if someone is going to spend a lot of money on an item.” Jenner is keenly aware that for her core audience of “Keeping Up With the Kardashians” fans, accessible price points were key, although some of her items fall into the contemporary and designer range for QVc. it’s an area where doug Howe, QVc’s executive vice president of merchandise, planning and sales, expects to see some advance buzz driving online sales, as well as some crossover between K-dash for the e network show “Keeping Up With and the Kris Jenner Kollection. the Kardashians.” “it’s a first for us to have mother and “i have hair and makeup here today, daughter selling their own lines,” said and my partner noelle, who’s in charge Howe. “We have been happy with the of brand management for Jenner K-dash business, and the girls, being so communications; Jesse, who does my son’s social-media savvy, have driven significant stuff; Karen, my personal assistant; Monica, amounts of e-commerce prior to their show who styles the line, and a couple of people even airing, so i suspect that trend will con- moving my closets around, because i’m tinue with Kris.” building a new one. So this is a really calm “We are constantly getting e-mails and morning in the Jenner household. i only tweets about where to get our clothes, so fi- have 35 people here running around like nally i can send fans to QVc to buy exactly crazy kooks,” she said calmly. what we are wearing, because these are all The reason for the new closet is Jenner’s the pieces i will be wearing next season,” More looks at first solo venture for QVc, after selling exer- said Jenner. cise equipment on the network with her hus- as for brand extensions, Jenner said, WWD.com/ band, Bruce Jenner, in the early nineties and “never say never.” She envisions her fam- fashion-news. the launch earlier this year of K-dash, the ily expanding its design reach over the next contemporary line from her daughters Kim, five years. Khloé and Kourtney, whom she manages. “Where we are going with all of this is to “i’ve wanted to do a collection my en- be very active in the fashion world,” Jenner tire life. i love the pieces that i wear, and said. “i think to be designing clothes and they’re very successful for me, for my life- to expand that into home and children and style,” explained Jenner of her uniform jewelry and accessories…that’s where i staples such as black leggings, a crisp white see us going, to a place where we can keep

shirt and a black blazer, all of which will be evolving as designers and giving people a keenan stefanie

available in the line. “i spent the first half little of our own personalities. all our lines by of my life being a mom, having six kids, so combined hit every age demographic and

now i like to look good, and i’ve learned body type. it’s a great one-stop shop.” photos 8 WWD tuesday, august 16, 2011 WWD.COM textiles U.S. Mills See CAFTA Kick In contrast, combined apparel and textile By KRISTI ELLIS shipments from China fell 10 percent to 2.3 billion square meter equivalents in June. CAFTA CounTRIES could be coming into “When you have 60 percent of u.S. their own, thanks to increasing cost pressures. yarns and fabrics going to [north As the apparel and textile supply American Free Trade Agreement partners chain grapples with higher labor, raw Mexico and Canada] and CAFTA, I think material and transportation costs, mar- the industry will tell you that, by and kets closer to home, such as Central large, these trade agreements have really America and the Dominican Republic, helped spur their exports,” said Kim Glas, Unifi Inc. has added 15 percent are expected to continue to gain sub- deputy assistant secretary for textiles and to its polyester texturing facility stantial business through imports and apparel at the Commerce Department. capacity at this plant in El Salvador. exports, mainly at the expense of China nCTo president Cass Johnson said, “If and other Asian countries. we had a stronger recovery in the u.S., we The u.S. textile industry is banking on would have even stronger growth in the re- of the consumption of synthetic apparel.” sales. We need those low-cost needles in its rebounding export business with its six gion today. on top of that, high costs of raw About 60 to 65 percent of unifi’s busi- Central America and South America.” partner countries of the Central American materials for cotton and man-made fiber ness goes through either CAFTA or Apparel importers have also benefited Free Trade Agreement — Guatemala, are suppressing demand.…But people in nAFTA countries. from the region’s proximity to the u.S. El Salvador, nicaragua, Costa Rica, the region are still feeling pretty bullish.” David Sasso, vice president of inter- For first six months of the year, apparel Honduras and the Dominican Republic — unifi Inc., a Greensboro, n.C.-based national sales with Buhler Quality Yarns imports from the CAFTA region rose 6.3 to offset some of the price pressures in the producer of multifilament polyester and Corp., a fine-count yarn spinner based in percent to 1.5 billion SME, while apparel system. At the same time, apparel import- nylon textured yarns, has added 15 per- Jefferson, Ga., said: “We export 60 per- shipments from China during the same ers are turning to the region for quicker cent to the capacity of its 120,000-square- cent of our product directly and indirect- period fell 2.8 percent to 4.1 billion SME. deliveries of a diversified selection of foot polyester texturing facility in El ly to CAFTA and nAFTA countries.” He nate Herman, vice president of inter- products, ranging from socks and under- Salvador, which now produces 25 million explained how some sales are to apparel national trade at the American Apparel wear to high-tech performancewear. pounds of polyester draw textured yarn manufacturers in the region and others & Footwear Association, said: “I believe Central America represents the second and polyester twisted yarn. are to firms that buy the yarns in the u.S. CAFTA will become even more important to largest export market for the u.S. textile “We invested $8 million to $10 million and then ship part or all of the orders to the region as prices are going up in Asia and industry, which shipped $2.5 billion worth in the plant, which has the ability to ex- Latin American factories. shipping costs are going up and people are of fabrics and yarn to the region in 2010, pand,” said Bill Jasper, present and chief Sasso said after the implementation looking to lower inventories and have small- up 28 percent from 2009, according to the executive officer. “We built there because of nAFTA and CAFTA, some companies er runs and also respond to fast fashion.” national Council of Textile organizations. we do believe the region is going to grow.” benefited and for others it just represent- Herman said the region is beginning u.S. brands and retailers use those raw Jasper said the companies producing ed more foreign competition. to attract new investment and diversify materials to produce apparel that is then synthetic apparel in the region, mea- “For the weak players, it didn’t help beyond commodity production of under- shipped back to the u.S. duty free. sured by consumption, grew by 25 per- them at all,” he said. ‘For the strong play- wear and socks, which still remains sig- u.S. exports of yarns and fabric to the cent in 2010 alone, adding that the com- ers, it helped them tremendously. They nificant, into other product categories. CAFTA region increased 37 percent during pany expects “another 15 to 18 percent found new markets and were able to — With contributions from the first six months of the year to $2 billion. [this year] in Central America, in terms compete. We couldn’t survive just in u.S. Arthur friEDmAn

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BEHIND THE STUDIO 54 DOOR: For many revelers, every night was a fashion show at Ian Schrager and Steve Rubell’s Studio 54, and soon designers and other stylish club goers will dish about what actually went on there. Through “The Marc and Myra Show,” Marc Benecke, who manned the door, and Myra Scheer, Rubell’s former executive assistant, will talk about the famed nightclub with the likes of Carolina and Renaldo Herrera, Pat Cleveland, Stephen Burroughs, Bob Colacello, Karin WWDSTYLE Bacon and Jackie Rogers on their weekly show, which makes its debut Sunday at 10 p.m. ET on SiriusXM Satellite Radio’s Channel 15. Herrera’s designer career was just getting going, and Halston, a regular at the club, encouraged her. During a recent taping of the new radio show, Colacello recalled sitting in Studio 54’s basement with Halston when Yves Saint Laurent sauntered in with Marina Schiano. After Halston stood up and embraced Saint Laurent, another cellar dweller, Truman Capote, told Hugo Guinness, “You have just witnessed one of the great moments in the history of fashion. That is, if you care about the history of fashion,” Colacello told Scheer and Benecke. The event planner Bacon (whose brother is the actor Kevin) told the radio hosts about her four-day frenzy pulling together the party Halston threw for Martha Graham. Bacon tracked down a choir director who wrote a musical tribute to Graham in one weekend and rounded up a group of singers from his church to perform it. “It was spectacular when the black cut drop was lifted revealing the choir in white robes under black light singing the lovely piece of music written for the occasion,” Bacon told Scheer.

Carolina Herrera with Victor Hugo at Studio 54. BAILEY DAVID

Numerous other long-forgotten memories have surfaced as the show has developed. Gloria Gaynor’s “I Will Survive” made its debut at the OF BAILEY COURTESY DAVID Diana Vreeland club when DJ Richie Kaczor took a chance by playing the a-capella-laced tune. Scheer said

PHOTO BY she found herself ringing up Andy Warhol during her fi rst day on the job. He, like Halston and several others, was on Rubell’s master call list. One of the many little-known facts that surfaced during show tapings was that the fair-haired pop artist made a habit of clubbing only after Studio 54 opened, Scheer said. “Andy used to say that Studio 54 was a dictatorship at the door Vreeland’s Legacy and a democracy inside — everyone was a star,” she said. “Everyone was there to have fun. This was before the red carpet. Everyone mixed and danced. No one asked for autographs.” Studio 54 fl ourished at a time after the Pill’s introduction and before the onset of the AIDS epidemic. Scheer said, “Girls felt free to go topless. There were no photographers that we Gets Screen Time couldn’t control. If one did something that Steve didn’t like, he would banish them for a week. It By LISA LOCKWOOD was a civilized time then, much more so than it is now,” referring to the paparazzi’s all-bets-off LISA IMMORDINO VREELAND IS BREATHING NEW life into Diana Vreeland’s legacy. approach to celebrities. In the coming weeks, a documentary titled “Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel,” along Future guests on “The Marc and Myra Show” with a coffee-table book, will be released, followed by a traveling exhibition that kicks off at the will include Studio 54’s architect Scott Bromley Fortuny Museum in Venice in March. All are expected to stoke interest in the legendary fash- and former-busboy-turned-Nobu-partner Richie ion editor, whose career could be summed up in three stages: fashion editor of Harper’s Bazaar Notar. The duo also has on deck for the fi rst show from 1937 to 1962; editor in chief of Vogue from 1962 to 1971, and a special consultant to the Chuck Garelick, the former head of security, who Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute from 1972 until her death 17 years later. will be chatting publicly for the fi rst time. “We Immordino Vreeland, the late editor’s granddaughter-in-law, directed and produced the docu- consider him to be the voice of reason. Some mentary, which will make its debut at the Venice Film Festival Sept. 3. She also wrote the coffee- people will say that a few people died trying to table book (Abrams, $55), which will hit bookstores Oct. 1. The fi lm, based on numerous conversa- get into Studio 54, but Bob will confi rm that no tions that George Plimpton conducted with Diana Vreeland when he edited her autobiography, one ever died trying to get in.” Scheer said. “But {Continued on page 10} people were ‘dying’ to get in.” — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG 10 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 16, 2011 WWD.COM Vreeland’s Legacy Gets Screen Time

{Continued from page 9} you’re so extremely ugly. I was always her ugly little shows fi lm clips from her early life, her career and her monster,” said Vreeland. family, and features televised interviews with Dick She invented her over-the-top personality that em- Cavett, Jane Pauley, Diane Sawyer and Andy Warhol braced life as an adventure, whether she was witnessing from his cult cable show on fashion. Designers such as the coronation of George V, riding horses with Buffalo Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, Hubert de Givenchy Bill in Wyoming or viewing Charles Lindbergh fl ying and Diane von Furstenberg; photographers such as over their house in Brewster, N.Y. In the documen- the late Richard Avedon and David Bailey, and editors tary, she speaks about her schooling and how she left and celebrities such as John Fairchild, Ingrid Sischy, Brearley after three months, having made no friends Anjelica Huston, Marisa Berenson and Ali MacGraw and developing a stutter. She enrolled in a Russian also weigh in on Vreeland’s infl uence on the world of school, where she was happy to do nothing but dance. fashion and her extravagant, excessive ways. During the Twenties, she decided to make herself

“As soon as I started research for the book, I said to “the most popular girl in the world” and would hang myself, ‘I should be working on a documentary,” said out in Harlem, where the music was great. “I never Immordino Vreeland, a fi rst-time fi lmmaker. Married to felt comfortable about my looks until I met Reed Alexander Vreeland, the grandson of Diana Vreeland, Vreeland.…It was love at fi rst sight. Nothing could the author-director felt the fashion editor’s life story spoil my happiness. Reed made me feel beautiful,” was one that had to be told. She believes that the only said Vreeland. After they married, they moved to “two great books”’’ that have ever been done on her were written by Diana herself: “Allure” and “D.V.” her auto- biography. “She had a life that was rich with so many different experiences. People need to know what this ARCHIVE life was about,” she said. Working nonstop the last three years, Immordino Vreeland got a rare glimpse into the life of one of the 20th century’s most original and colorful characters. She never met Diana Vreeland but had always been fas- CHINSEE cinated by her. She said that not having met her made the project easier. Her team includes Gloss Studio as GEORGE executive producers; Frederic Tcheng and Bent Jorgen BY Perlmutt as editors and co-directors, and Mark Lee NAST CECIL BEATON/VOGUE/CONDÉ L Lisa Immordino Vreeland PHOTO (chief executive offi cer of Barneys New York) as co-ex- ecutive producer. since the atom bomb.” She also discovered Lauren Bacall. “She came smiling into my offi ce with a wide The Diana Vreeland infl uence: The Maria Callas spread in Vogue. Russian face. Betty couldn’t take a bad picture. After I She created a fantasy of her put her on the cover, she got a call from Hollywood,” said Vreeland. life experience and everyone Seemingly reminiscent of “The Devil Wears Prada,” Ali MacGraw is interviewed in the fi lm about her expe- rience working as an assistant to Vreeland after gradu- else’s. There’s something ating from , and how demanding a boss she was. “She’d start barking orders, ‘Get me a pencil!’ CALLAS STERN/VOGUE/CONDÉ NAST ARCHIVE; BY factually incorrect about it, and gave her assistants a very hard time, and they al- BERT ways cried during the day,” recalled MacGraw, who de- but it’s a wonderfully positive scribed one incident where Vreeland “chucked a coat” at her, so MacGraw instinctively chucked it back. “Diana way to look at the world. PHOTO BY was pretty annoyed,” she said. Vreeland explained after 26 years at Harper’s Bazaar —LISA IMMORDINO VREELAND, HEPBURN and making $18,000, she got a $1,000 raise. “When PERMISSION OF HEARST CORP. Alexander Liberman [editorial director of Condé Nast] ON DIANA VREELAND’S TIME called to see me, I made up my mind to listen to him.” AT THE COSTUME INSTITUTE. She jumped ship to Vogue, where she eventually became in Vogue. editor in chief. Those were great years for her. “It was

“I felt, because of my name, I’d be able to have more REPRINTED WITH her period, with the social, political, civil rights, ‘black access, and I certainly had more access, but it’s not is beautiful’ going on,” said Joel Schumacher in the fi lm. the access that mattered for me. It was the openness After Vreeland was fi red from Vogue in 1971 — of the people of Condé Nast, Harper’s Bazaar and the which she attributed to “they wanted a different sort of Costume Institute. Just people wanting to tell their sto- magazine” — she lost her way for a while. “She was ries, being generous with their time and really wanting not the autocratic, sure-of-herself star. I could see some to embrace this,” said Immordino Vreeland, who gradu- brokenness,” recalled McGraw. But within the year, ated from Skidmore College with an art history degree. she got a call from the Met, which wanted to hire her She previously ran her own fashion design’’ and produc- as a consultant, and a new chapter in her life began. tion consulting business, having earlier been director of Vreeland’s annual exhibitions at the Costume Institute, public relations for Polo Ralph Lauren in Italy. She also FOUNDATION, OF THE RICHARD AVEDON which started with “The World of Balenciaga” (1973) launched Industria, Fabrizio’s Ferri’s sportswear line, and included “Hollywood Design” (1974), “The Glory of and founded two fashion companies, Pratico and Mago. Russian Costume” (1976) and “Vanity Fair” (1977), gal- While Diana Vreeland had an incredible eye for vanized audiences. Her exhibitions drew almost one what was dramatic, new and exciting, Immordino million visitors a year and made the museum a center

Vreeland felt that she had been misunderstood, and COURTESY AVEDON of fashion excitement in New York and the world. “It there was so much more to her than people real- A Richard Avedon spread in Harper’s Bazaar. became an event. The show was a very big deal,” said ize. First and foremost, she was able to spot talent Calvin Klein in the fi lm. and draw things out of people. She helped design- London, where they started a life full of romantic trips “I believe in dreams. I think we only live through our ers such as von Furstenberg, Manolo Blahnik and the around Europe in their Bugatti coupé. “The best thing dreams and our imagination. That’s the only reality we Missonis launch their businesses. When the Missonis, about London was Paris,” said Vreeland, saying that only really have. I can’t stand these shows being taken who were working in Italy, came to New York to show is where she really learned about clothes and became down. I become very attached to them,” said Vreeland. their clothes, Vreeland called all the stores. “She friends with all the couturiers in Paris. She even ran Immordino Vreeland said what she found fascinating was responsible for their business in America,” said her own lingerie business in London. “One day Wallis about Vreeland was her different way of looking at the Immordino Vreeland. She suggested to Blahnik, who Simpson came into the shop and ordered three night- world. She acknowledged the costume shows she put on was working on theatrical set designs, that he should gowns for a very special weekend. She was off to a ren- at the Met weren’t always historically correct. “But she be working on “extremities.” dezvous with Edward, the new King of England, and wanted people to get the feeling of the era,” she said. “If “I just knew she had been slightly misunderstood the rest is history.” it wasn’t the view she wanted it to be, she altered that because people were in love with her personality, her Once the Vreelands returned to New York City, Diana view. It was the word ‘faction.’ She created a fantasy of looks, her extravagance. But there was so much more became serious about her career. “I was going through her life experience and everyone else’s. There’s some- depth to her. She pushed the limits on so many things. money like someone goes through whiskey if you’re an thing factually incorrect about it, but it’s a wonderfully She was a society woman who worked really hard her alcoholic,” she said. “We never had that much money. positive way to look at the world.” whole life. She didn’t want to push for feminism in any I’m really basically quite lazy.” But Carmel Snow, editor Asked what she believed Vreeland’s biggest contribu- way, but she did,” said Immordino Vreeland. in chief of Harper’s Bazaar, saw her dancing at the St. tion to the world of fashion was, Immordino Vreeland The fi lm begins with Vreeland talking about her Regis and offered her a job. “I’ve never worked before, replied, “I think fantasy and originality and a unique early years growing up in Europe. “The fi rst thing to do and never dressed before lunch,” she said. She started vision of what the world should be. She was tough to is arrange to be born in Paris. After that, everything fol- writing the “Why Don’t You?” column, offering advice work with at times, but had a positive outlook, and I lows quite naturally,” said Vreeland, in her pipe-organ on a variety of subjects, and soon was tapped as fash- think that’s so important. She had multiple layers, and voice. She explained that her mother never thought ion editor. The fi lm points to many of her discoveries, she had this life that was so textured, and she gave it to she was pretty and that was something she carried with such as launching , advising Jackie Kennedy on us, and I think that was a great gift. It was this curiosity her throughout her life. “We were not sympathetic. matters of style, and coining some of fashion’s most elo- for life that she had. She had this vision of the world [She would say] too bad you have a beautiful sister, and quent proverbs, such as “The bikini is the biggest thing that had no barriers.” WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 16, 2011 11 WWD.COM Beauty Beat Fashion scoops Lauder Earnings Surge Ahead LAMPERT FUND UPS GAP STAKE: RBS mother is the one who has {Continued from page one} nearly 75 percent of its business out- Partners, a fund affiliated with Sears been deemed a real doll. As part of gain in the quarter, putting a halt to side North America. In fiscal 2011, Asia- Holdings Corp. chairman Edward S. its Barbie Collector series, Mattel is long-held criticism by Wall Street Pacific surpassed North America as the Lampert, boosted its stake in gap Inc. by lionizing the Hollywood leading lady- that these brands had lost their mojo. Estée Lauder brand’s largest region. 3.3 million shares during the quarter turned-princess with three collectible Together, the three brands account Lauder continues to set its sights ended June 30. RBS now holds 30.4 dolls. The “To Catch a Thief ” Barbie for 70 percent of Lauder’s total sales. overseas, particularly in Asia. The com- million shares of gap, or 5.5 percent of features the plastic blonde with an “[Fiscal] 2011 has been a terrific year,” pany estimates that in 2011 roughly $1 the company, which was valued at $498.8 upswept chignon and wearing a sky- said Freda, adding the company was billion of its sales were generated from million as of Monday’s close. blue gown with a fitted bodice and two years into its restructuring program Chinese consumers from around the In February, funds affiliated with gathered skirt, and accessorized with a and in many cases ahead of schedule. world. Other international plans call Lampert held 35 million shares of the coordinating chiffon scarf and clutch. “These results confirm that our strat- for the opening of more stand-alone re- retailer, but it is not clear how that The grace Kelly bride doll wears a long- egy is working and has allowed us to tail concepts, particularly in emerging larger stake has changed in recent sleeve lace wedding gown reminiscent of reach our original 13 percent operat- markets. “We are a powerful retail store months. Lampert — the force behind the the one the princess wore. This Barbie, ing margin target two years earlier than operator,” said Freda, noting that the combination of Sears and Kmart — has which arrived in stores Friday, also dons anticipated,” Freda said, noting that the company currently operates 750 stores. been silent on his a delicate headpiece margin goal had originally been set for He added retail brand concepts well intentions toward and veil, and holds fiscal 2013. During the company’s earn- suited for emerging markets include gap and RBS could Mattel’s Princess a bouquet of white ings call on Monday, MAC Cosmetics and Jo not be reached for Grace-inspired flowers and a prayer Freda introduced a new Malone. He also said the comment Monday. Barbies. book, as Kelly did when operating margin target Fabrizio company is consider- Lampert is a she exchanged vows of 14.5 to 15 percent by Freda ing stand-alone formats noted value investor, with Prince Rainier III fiscal 2014. for Estée Lauder and though, and gap has in 1956. Lauder’s newly Clinique, the latter of been lagging the The Romance doll minted strategy of de- which has two stores in retail field lately, will make its debut in veloping “fewer, better” Brazil. In Buenos Aires, having been hit hard October wearing a black launches, particularly the company has opened by cost pressures. floral dress, a matching in skin care, and then a split store concept with Shares of gap headpiece, white gloves throwing its weight be- Bobbi Brown on one side slipped 0.4 percent to and a string of pearls hind them with a com- and La Mer on the other. $16.43 Monday, as the — an ensemble that bination of print, TV More new concepts are broader market rose. replicates what the and digital advertising likely, said Freda. The company’s stock Philadelphia native was (or “pull marketing”) For the three months has traded as low as wearing when she met backed by stepped- ended June 30, net earn- $15.26 and as high as the prince at the Cannes up retail service has ings attributable to the $23.73 over the past Film Festival in 1955. changed the company’s beauty firm were $41.1 12 months. That collectible will course over the last two years. Now, the million, or 20 cents a diluted share, up Lampert isn’t also have a second outfit firm plans to employ that same strategy from $23.9 million, or 12 cents, in the the only hedge — a white blouse, navy in its cosmetics business. year-earlier period. Net sales in the fund billionaire skirt and coat, a wide- “All of our makeup brands will have quarter gained 12 percent to $2.06 bil- eyeing retail. Warren brimmed hat, long gloves increased activity in pull marketing,” lion, from $1.84 billion, or up 7 percent Buffett’s Berkshire and a floral bouquet Freda told WWD on Monday. Lauder’s excluding the impact of foreign curren- Hathaway Inc. — essentially the same increased emphasis on advertising cy translation. bought 1.5 million look Kelly sported comes as the firm rethinks its promo- By category, skin care sales in- shares of Dollar when she arrived in tional strategy at retail. Freda clarified, creased the most, or 11 percent in general Corp., a the principality for her “We are not moving away from promo- local currency, followed by a 7 percent stake that amounted nuptials. tions. [Rather] there’s been a gradual, gain in makeup. Hair care sales rose to 0.4 percent of A percentage of sales measured reduction of activities, which 4 percent, while fragrance sales de- the company and of each doll, which is then balanced by increased pull mar- clined 5 percent. was valued at $48.3 retail from $35 to $175, keting support.” For the year, profits rose 46.5 per- million. will benefit the Princess Jane Hudis, global brand presi- cent to $700.8 million, or $3.48 a diluted grace Foundation- dent for Estée Lauder, added, “In share, from $478.3 million, or $2.38, a FULL OF GRACE: USA, which helps up- North America, it’s been gradual and year earlier. Sales gained 13 percent Prince Albert’s bride, and-coming artists in requires a refunneling of media re- to $8.81 billion from $7.80 billion, or 12 Charlene Wittstock, is theater, dance and film sources,” which now support major percent excluding the impact of foreign the newest member through scholarships, launches. Those efforts, she said, currency translation. to Monaco’s royal apprenticeships and have brought new customers into the The company continues to take family, but his late fellowships. store. “Retailers have been delight- charges associated with its restructur- ed,” said Hudis. ing program, both for the quarter and During the earnings call, Hudis said for the year, with the amounts decreas- the flagship Estée Lauder brand gener- ing year-over-year in the fourth quarter ates $2 billion in annual sales, and does and fiscal 2011.

Express to Open Brooklyn Flagship For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. open sometime in the spring and there By JEAN E. PALMIERI is another 10,000 square feet available on the corner of that building. IT WILL BE A HOMECOMINg of sorts On Monday, Mayor Michael Bloomberg Spaces for Michael Weiss. and Brooklyn Borough president Marty The chief executive officer of Express Markowitz said the city will develop COMMERCIAL is one of the many retail industry execu- 49,000 square feet of retail space in the REAL ESTATE Ladies casual sptswear importer seeks: tives who cut their teeth at the training Brooklyn Municipal building at 210 PATTERN/SAMPLES Prod’n Coord. - Detailed, org’d w/ min. program at the Abraham & Straus flagship Joralemon Street downtown. The plan is Garment center location. Professional 7 yrs. impt prod’n exp. knits/woven. /Reliable Quality. Men & women all style. Tech Design Asst. - Min. 2 yrs. exp. in on Fulton Street in downtown Brooklyn. to create a pedestrian-friendly space that Low Cost. Small production. 212-563-3331 Spec w/ pattern knowledge & fit. Sales Acct. Exec. - 2-3 yrs. sptswr exp. And next year, Weiss will return to the will anchor the Court Street retail corri- Email resume w/ Sal: [email protected] borough when he opens the doors to a dor. A full-service restaurant will be in- new 10,000-square-foot Express flagship cluded. Construction is expected to begin Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS on the ground level of 490 Fulton Street. in 2012 and the project is being developed Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Haim Chera, a principal of Crown by United American Land LLC. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Acquisition Corp., which just inked the “Downtown Brooklyn today is a di- deal to rent the space to Express, said: versified, 24/7 live work community, “There’s a real shift in the dynamic in having benefited from a surge of invest- Brooklyn now.” He said a Shake Shack ment in excess of $3 billion during the has committed to opening on Fulton past five years,” said Alan Fishman, Street and H&M is under construction. co-chair of Downtown Brooklyn Aéropostale has also taken a spot there, Partnership. “As a result, hundreds Chaim said. “There is a tidal wave of of new retail jobs have been created, national chains coming to Brooklyn,” he the area’s residential population has said. In addition, Chaim said there are boomed, new cultural facilities and 240 dorm rooms for students from Long parks have been created and the area Island University that will be located is well positioned to really surge once on the upper floors of 490 Fulton Street, the global recession subsides.” (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] “right above the store.” Downtown Brooklyn attracts more Chaim said the Express store should than 150,000 shoppers daily.