The The Feeling of Solidarity

Research- Part 1

By Bhavika Awatramani Anamika Ananth Yula Jung In The Early 1900s

New York City Los Angeles Detroit Chicago Atlanta The Zoot Suit, as a statement,

1. The minority groups of people’s opinions and thoughts. “Throughout the 20th century, African-American men had been discriminated against and stereotyped, but relied on one thing that set them apart from others, and that is the they chose to wear.” - Holly Alford

Holly Alford, “The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence,” Fashion Theory 8, no.2 (2004): 225.

Holly Alford, “The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence,” Fashion Theory 8, no.2 (2004): 225. 2. The Culture : Dance & Music

Between the 1930s and the 1940s was a swing era, and African-American men would like to wear the zoot suit when they were dancing. 3. Behind the zoot suits

Some people hide their illegal activity behind the zoot suit. 4. Clothing + Hairstyle, Speaking, and Gestures Pachuco and Pachuca are terms coined in the 1940s that refer to the men and women dressed in zoot suits or zoot suit-influenced attire. It is said to have originated from El Paso, Texas. Pachucas was the women's clothing that included the men’s with a short , fishnet , platform heels, saddle or . They piled their hair in a pompadour style and wore heavy makeup. Wear a masculine attire, women broke out of the cultural and gender norms. Pachuco was the men’s clothing that consisted of a long “Zoot” and tux, draped pants with a chain called Cadena, and Calcos shoes. The Modern Fashion Inspired by the Zoot Suit Zoot Suit in the Modern and Present Time.

Zoot Suit is seen alive in Hollywood. An example can be of a present day theatrical play named “Zoot Suit” where the cast is seen rehearsing in high-waisted , long chains dangling from the , and . The men strutting while the women , showing the history of Zoot Suiters.

Another aspect of modern day Zoot Suit fashion can be viewed in fashion shows. An example can be of Schiaparelli’s Fall 2014 Couture. Inspired by the jazz culture as well as mimicking the bold and bright fabric rationed during World War Two, when the Zoot Suit fashion was most alive, Schiaparelli broke every fashion rule, just as a true Zoot Suit would. Elsa Schiaparelli, Jenia Kim & SOCIAL AND POLITICAL IMPACTS

-The zoot suit emerged at a time wherein fabric was scarce. The World War 2 resulted in fabric shortages across America and Europe, which resulted in various laws that required fabric and clothing to be rationed.

-During this time wearing a zoot suit was considered extremely unpatriotic as it utilized more fabric than what was legal, thus opposing a movement and law made to help the country in a time of conflict and need. - The Zoot suit caused 5 days of violence in Los Angeles, which was first instigated by white sailors who attacked primarily Mexican men in zoots and pachucos, this was followed by the same sailors organizing taxi convoys, which resulted in white civilians joining in. The violence was horrendous, the victims had their pants stripped off, clothing torn, they would have their hair cut off and be beaten. The violence did not stop till the navy declared Los Angeles off-limits for servicemen. -The violence and discrimination further promoted the zoot suit by pushing the wearers to band together and form a community. The political and social interest in the Zoot suits only enhanced and prolonged the duration for which the style was popular.

-The Zoot suit gained as much popularity as it did and sustained itself through the War primarily because it carried an important message, the Zoot suit was statement of ethnic pride and was used to show political resistance.

-The Zoot suit also allowed men of color to buy suits wherever they wanted to, this was a time wherein racial discrimination was still prevalent and many white would refuse to fit a man of color and the Zoot suit eliminated the need for fitting and thus allowed men of color to shop wherever they wanted to.

- The Zoot suit was an example of how consumer culture was used as a daily form of protest A Visit to the Museum of Modern Art The Evolution of Suits